Boiler weather compensation, what is it, does it work and is it worth it.
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- Опубликовано: 1 ноя 2022
- in this video Derek takes a look at boiler weather compensation to find out what it is, how it works and is it worth having to save you gas or is it just a gimmick .
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I am a retired gas engineer and I have had an A rated combi with weather compensation for 16 years now , I did work in the commercial sector and appreciate how WC systems work . I have had occasions in winter coming home after a short break away in cold weather returning on a warm day when the flow temp wasn't enough to warm the house , simple adjustment for me but not for the usual house owner . Apart from that situation the system works so well keeping my house at a steady temperature . Well worth fitting .
Used to work for the old mpbw ,ministry commercial buildings,RAF bases ,tax offices ,passport offices ect, we were taught this in the early 80,s ,...no smart things then lol, we had to put a paper thermometer recorder in a building.... 6 or so if zoned , then monitor outside, then draw each zone/building points onto a paper graph to check if heating performing, happy days!!, it worked quiet well , we had a 1360000 btu boiler house and managed to save about 1000 galls of fuel per month using weather comp.Thanks for the vid brought it all back!
I have to laugh a hollow laugh here. I put weather comp on my own boiler five years ago......six months later I disabled it. Then I gave myself a telling off " get with it man, you are a heating engineer..learn how to use it properly "..so after another six months I reconnected it, and it's true that with WC you have to learn different strategies for heating the home. I think fuel costs is a big driver in favour of change that maybe was less of a priority previously. Anyway it's staying connected now. Thanks Derek for an excellent explanation. P S There were weather comp units in all the boiler houses of the council Elderly Persons Units I worked in 25 years ago. Its not new really is it. My night time roomstat set back is 16.5c and normal setting is 18c. which we increase manually on colder evenings. As you say, it rarely comes on during the 16.5 overnight setting. We also put on pullovers...the oldest heating invention of all 🤣
lmao y'all have 16.5c in your BEDROOM AT NIGHT ?? loool
Great video Derek and it's great that weather comp and open therm controls are now being talked about more. A bit late, but better late than never. Do you discuss these on any of the courses you run?
Very informative.. awesome vid Derek
thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise, making it « accessible » to all , kudos to you!
So many variables affect consumer perceived comfort levels, hot radiators are associated with warm rooms, not an accurate method.
It boils down to the heating input being being adjusted to compensate for the heat loss of the building as you've explained. Only intelligent controls can achieve SENSIBLE comfort levels and end user education is a must! In the days of a radiant gas fire in the lounge, we would turn it up till we were too hot,turn it down till we felt cold and repeat the process. Weather compensation and open therm removes the human element!
They do work,save energy and improve comfort levels, it's all about educating both consumers and installers! On/off controls don't have a place in today's world!
Hi thanks for taking the time and trouble to do the video.
Your training place is in A-U-L. I don't live far from there. Would you consider popping over and installing a weather compensation on a vallient eco 937 boiler please?
Interesting and informative, non technical explanations, understandable by the layman, thanks
Good to see BoilerPlus pushing WC as a standard option to meet the requirements. Plus the same WC can perhaps be reused for when Heat pumps take over. The issue is do many one-man installers understand WC and heat curves. Based on my experience looking for a boiler the answer is a hard no. Not sure what (if anything bar the basics) training is being done by installers or what boiler makers are mandating what training. Even the optional features for some boilers (like Bosch and Valliant) seem a total surprise. Seems many installers never have to learn much more once they are a registered installer such is the sales pressure to have your brand boiler being installed over the next (often very similar technically for the main volume models) boiler brand X
Thanks for the interesting video.
I'm trying to get a feel for the payback period of converting my Y Plan to weather comp. I currently use 'manual weather compensation' which means that I adjust the flow temperature myself based on the next few day's weather forecast. Can you give a rough idea of how much extra gas savings a automated system would deliver. Also, what would be the rough cost of converting a Vaillent boiler (i.e. not compatible with Opentherm, so can only use Vaillent's own controls). I had quick look and factoring in the cost of their control system and compatible wiring centre I believe that I'm looking at roughly £400 of parts plus installation cost, so a very long pay back period. Is that your experience?
As an aside, my rule of thumb for setting flow temperature is "68 C - twice the outside temperature". So 68 C if its zero outside, 58 C if its 5C and so on. Still experimenting, but seems to work reasonably well. I don't go below 50 C because of the need to heat hot water to a usable temperature (before anyone mentions it. I discount legionella because I've got a solar PV system the runs the immersion heater and even in water normally tops up the water temperature by several degrees at least once a week). Would welcome comments on this formula.
Thanks for the good video, I was wondering how this works for the hot water, cylinder side. e.g. say you need 59 degreees C , how can this work if the boiler is running at a lower flow temp, in that case then I'll never get up to 59 Deg C.and I'll have low temp water for the bath ?
The GW sensor is the same at the Vaillant one, some even have swapped them with success. I wonder if you could use the controls on each system as they are both ebus.
What are your thoughts on using Drayton TVR4 balancing valves to minimise the flow input on all oversizes radiators?
slightly off typic I know but may be of use to some of your followers ....... to help reduce costs...........I reverse engineered the house burger alarm system ( still acts as a burglar alarm when house is not occupied) but all round the house there are movement Sencers still scanning for people / movement reporting back to the control box ( but as you have told it that your home it does not sound the alarm) so I have connected the room movment sencors to the Honeywell so when there is no movement in a room for 10 mins the heating in that room drops by 3 deg when the Sencer detects movement it reverts back to the normal temp........when I go out and set the house alarm it turns the house heating down by 5 deg.........never thought how much is saved but must be somthing!!!! geofencing with out the need of a mobile phone
very intresting thanks I have the Honeywell home system for well over 10years this works out how long it takes to get each room up to temp should it not reach that temp in its normal time it backs the temp down thinking that you have opened a window or door it even shows with a pic of a open window on the display to show why its backed its self and it will never reach the required temp in that room un till the next on time period where it will try and bring it up to temp again..... its a fantastic system would this device help me in my setup!....the boiler never comes on and bang Stright to max as it has worked out the length of time it should take to heat each room the only draw back that i can see is the Honeywell uses the local weather station which is 1.5 miles in land from the sea and a altitude of around 100ft above sea level on the south coats I am 500mt above sea level here and about 12 miles from the station as the crow flys !!!! we don't get fog here we get Low Cloud!
What would you reccomend for a very old large stone house to optimise performance vs cost. I have a brand new combi, but temps take hours to get up again if left to drop too low (sub 15c). 15c - 16c can take 2 hours to reach. Will weather comp help as leaving heating of for 8 hours while at work you cant get temp up for evening.
Imhaving a new Worcester system boiler installed in January and am interested in weather compensation. From what you say though, the set up isnt User friendly (yet) and an engineer has to set up and tweak to get just right? Maybe once companies make waether comp easy for the User to set, more would have it?
I've been trying to to sort of manually do this, as in control the boiler flow temp to maintain 21 degrees in the living room without cycling. Outside temp is about 10 degrees and with my boiler turned down to 50 degrees, after 20 minutes the boiler temp rises slowly to 56 degrees and then switches off. Tells me that my boiler is too big for the current setup so would installing bigger rads help it run at 50 or do I need a more modern modulating boiler? I've got a Baxi Platinum 28 with 11 rads. Thanks.
I've got a tado system and am waiting on them getting back to me to confirm how I wire it to work with the WB version of opentherm. Is it just as simple as installing an outside temp sensor as well or do I need the full WB weather compensation control system?
Hi Derek, Worcester Bosch recommend LIY CY (TP) control cable for installing their Outdoor Weather compensation sensor, I can't find this cable in cut lengths for love nor money, is it absolutely necessary or would ordinary 2 core cable suffice?
Can weather compensation and open therm work together on an Ideal c30 condens boiler
Hi Tomkat (Derek) ive recently had a baxi 800 fitted. Saves a fortune over my old Ideal Mexico heat only unit on an old vented water tank system.
Im looking into fitting the Baxi weather comp sensor. Its very cheap and only requires the connection of 2 wires into the electrical side of the control panel. The temp sensor itself fits into the flue outlet.
Ive recently carried out a simple couple of tests and am wondering if it actually works and is worthwhile fitting.
I ran for a week at flow temp of 60 deg, then the following week increased flow temp to 70 deg. My Hive thermostat was untouched in heating times/periods and temps. Through the Hive data captured i was able to see that at 70 degs the burner didnt run for as long and the house increased in temp quicker. At flow temp of 60 deg, boiler run time was longer and temp increase time was also longer. However gas consumed was over the 2 weeks i ran the simple test, the same, in fact exactly the same. The burner then works harder but for a shorter period of time.
Whilst not a true scientific test (weather was similar but not exactly the same) The property is a standard 3 bed semi, loft insulation good, windows are all new, no cavity wall though. During the night the heating is all off, we do not have a fall back temp so it cools down to around 14/15 deg this time of year.
When the heating is running during the evening its set point will be no higher than 18 deg so its not exactly a sauna inside.
I suppose my questions is, does weather comp pay dividends over the long term. From my very simple short term experiment im struggling to find a positive reason to fit.
Or, should i spend a couple hundred and go for a full opentherm system (Hive does not do open therm and the benefits it brings) such as Nest
Great channel BTW, have learnt so much on setting my system up, thanks.
S
Weather comp and open therm controls are the best way of saving money but there is about a 5 year pay back. It all depends if you want to save the planet with less co2 or not
Also, weather comp / Opentherm enables your boiler to run in condensing mode for longer which is more efficient.
Hi, I very much like your videos and some time ago I asked if you would kindly produce one describing 'Range Rateing' a new boiler and how that differs from 'Modulation'. Hope this is coming soon. kind regards Dave Porter
I am doing a series of videos soon on the full installation and commissioning new heating system so it will be included in that 👍🏻
Most digital room thermostats today have a hysteresis band of about 1 to 1 1/2 deg either side of setting.
I have found if I use the return water from the heating system to pre heat the indirect domestic water I can send cooler boiler water back to the condensing boiler which results in boiler running at higher condensation rate and thus higher efficiency.
I would encourage anyone that has weather compensation and doesn't like it to persevere with tuning the heating curve rather than just disconnecting it. The number of times you need the boiler to output its maximum are very few, perhaps no more than 10 days in any winter. At all other times, something less than the maximum output will save you money.
Absolutely agree with you Tony. When it gets really very cold you just have to select the maximum curve, then remember to back it off again when outside temperatures moderate a bit.
Ive just put a WC sensor on my Viesman boiler, the curve was preset to 1.4,,,but the house was a bit cool for us, Ive raised to to 1.6....is this the right thing to do?....I can't find much info on how to adjust the curves to suit your requirements ?
The viessmann vitodens 050w sadly doesn't come with the weather comp module in the box.
You’re right about the mindset of UK homeowners and how they manage their heating 🤦♂️
I once had to alter curve on viesman boiler, because they was running boiler with lot of big towel radiators instead of radiators at 70c/80c
I tried to advice them to get bigger rads and but had to give up in end
I thought the trv stopped excessive overheating? We should be measuring how fast rooms warm and cool and adjust boiler flow temp appropriately.
So weather comp adjusts flow temp based on outside temp, and the curve you choose is how you help balance based on your heat loss? Can you still fit a timer controller/have setback temps as we wouldn’t want eg 20c overnight
Yes, I control mine with Drayton Wiser with no wall stat, just one individually programmed smart stat on each of the 13 radiators. Each radstat can directly address the boiler.
I've range rated my Worcester 30CDi to 50%. set the flow temp to 55C, set pump to be step adjustable and installed a Nest set to minimum of 15C. The Nest will display it's estimate of time to reach target temp and stops calling for heat before the temp is reach to avoid overshoot. The Nest get local temp from internet, of course.
Smart 👌🏻
How much has this improved your energy consumption?
From paying 2p per Kwh to now 10p per Kwh, I think we all need to try and save gas consumption! Mental prices and we're all going to see £10 days for our fuel costs this winter. (unless you turn the heating off) I badly want weather compensation but I'm already running at 55°C, not sure we can go much lower!
You can go lower on warmer days…
My boiler’s minimum flow temp is ~45, and that’s plenty here - dt is well under ten.
Like you say, customers are not happy if they can’t have the heating on full when they want it and I’ve had to disconnect many weather comps, even if I advise turning the curve up. I even get customers not happy with open therm stats that don’t reach the exact set temp asap.
Have you noticed much of a change this year with gas at 10p per kWh Matt? Or is it too early in the season to judge?
My digital room stat overshoot 0.5 c, boilers set at 60c and range rated to 12kw think effect of weather comp would be slight on my system
do you have a video talking about modulating and range rating? As many with a combi boiler, its sized for hot water and oversized for heating. 30kw combi, 1:8 modulation (not bad), heat loss of 6kw in the house. When its mild I think max modulation still isn’t enough and the boiler is cycling. Can the boiler be range rated down for heating, or does that reduce the modulation too - i.e if modulation will go down to 3kw, will range rating to 50% let me get 1.5kw out of it, or will it still be stuck to 3kw and the modulation reduces to 1:4?
I am in the process of putting this together for a video 👍🏻
One thing to remember about OpenTherm is it runs the pump for longer
your example curve 1.0 has a flow temp of around 32c with outside temp of 12-13c. Roughly what I’m seeing on mine. But the boiler is too big to give me 30c without cycling. Is that ‘tough’ and just a byproduct of combis being oversized for HW?
No, you just have a poor modulation boiler. For perfect weather comp you need at least 1-10 modulation. The only way to get around it is to raise your curve to avoid rapid cycling
What about thermostat hysteresis? My old mechanical stat had around 3C to 5C change points. My new RF stat is set for 0.5C.
A larger hysteresis will give wider variations in the temperature felt by people in the building. This might result in the thermostat being set higher than it really needs to be because the occupants feel cold and see that the heating has gone off.
This is an interesting introduction to WC, which have been in existence, in commercial buildings, for 50 years or more. I would have liked more detail on how to integrate WC with boilers that dont have the onboard facility for direct compensation, normally this would entail a mixing valve to modulate the flow temp. not very practical in a domestic setting. The comment about boiler output of 35 kW would imply that you're talking about a combi boiler which has not had its heating output matched to the actual heating load. I am a great fan of WC but have struggled to find a controls manufacturer that produces a kit which is suitable for a system boiler that provides DHW via a cylinder, ideally a room controller which the customer can easily adjust the curve and allows the boiler flow temp to ramp up when there is DHW demand.
I used a mains coil relay which is operated when the heating of my domestic hot water is enabled via the control and on demand via the tank thermostat and the motorised valve.
The relay puts a resistor in parallel with the weather compensation sensor which tricks the compensation algorythm in the boiler into thinking it's got very cold outside, and this produces max boiler flow temperature.
I've been running this for 4 years now, it works well. The only downside is that any radiators that go on demand while things are in water heating mode become prone to overshoot ;-)
My boiler and compensation sensor are both Worcester Bosch, and the resistor is 7Kohm.
Ok, really basic question not related to weather compensation but i think someone here might be able to give some good advice. I've got a combi boiler and every radiator in my house has a trv but I don't have a thermostat. Should I get one?
The simple answer is yes you should. However, depending on what type and make / model of boiler you have, you may be able to choose other options.
How can i control it overnight?
Finding a plumber who will do this for you is even more of a challenge than getting the weather com curve right. We had a Vailent engineer out this wek to fix the cockup he did last week when supposedly doing a 'full service'. After fixing his stuff up he then said he wouldn't service our Magnaclean because its was made of plastic. FFS its in contract & try finding one that isn't plastic on the outside. Vailent say it should be done by 'Gas Safe engineer at least every 2 years yet their own staff won't or can't. We'd love weather comp but trying to find someone to do basic competent plumbing in central London for a small flat is next to impossible.
A major problem! When I started looking for quotes to supply and install a new boiler almost nobody had a clue what OpenTherm or weather compensation was :-(
Most were very anxious to change the subject when I started asking questions.
In fairies this Adey Magnacleans are a right pain...they leak as soon as you look at them
If I want various temperatures throughout the day and night how would weather compensation deal with that?
It doesn’t it’s the room stat that does that
Then when you have 3 or 4 zones surely you can't have all on , nearly be better having a frost stat on and pipe stat to keep some water in system chill free , .
Surely i can just increase the flow temp in winter and decreae in the warmer months manually.
One disadvantage - our boiler backs onto the bedroom, so we get the noise of the flow pump running all night!
Why can’t you just manually adjust the flow temp on the boiler as you see fit depending on the outside temp?
Right, That's just what I've been doing since I had the weather comp that came with our new build disconnected a few years ago. It's so simple.
But I have a gas boiler that can modulate as low as 3.4kW. When outdoor temperature goes up, room thermostat signals that the room temp is slightly exceeded (maybe half a degree), boiler reduces output. So, my room temp is constant. How does weather compensation help save gas then? My room temp is constant and my boiler constantly works (no cycling) but with lower or higher output, as required.
If you’re boiler hasn’t been range rated it will always fire in high fire at the start but with weather comp it tells the boiler how much to fire depending on the outside and inside temperature
@@tomkatgastraining
Thank you for the quick response. Actually my boiler will be installed in about a month. I am now learning how to set things up. Your channel is helping me a lot. Thanks!
Anyone know if this sensor is 10k or 12k ohm and uses OT protocol to boiler?
My Worcester Bosch one appears to be a fairly standard thermistor resistive type, it's hard wired to the boiler via co ax cable, no protocol involved.
Surely it would be better to have weather compensation with internet connectivity so it knows what’s going to happen. For example my room stat is set to 17deg in the morning, didn’t go on and I noticed it was sunny so opened all curtains and blinds - the sun warmed those rooms up to 18.5 deg in 40 mins. One of these simple devices would have turned my boiler on if set to 18 deg. Definitely would recommend a good timer though - I can set six heat times per day and minimum temps in between those times ( I only use 3 heat sessions per day).
you have both an internal and external temp sensor, it uses both, the outside helps to mitigate against losses in the building handling flow temp mainly while the internal temp sensor will be the actual target temp.
ie if the outside is super cold (0c) and you had a fixed flow of 50 say, then it would take longer to heat up to your target of 20c, if it was only say 10c outside then it would warm up faster as there is less loss. WC will adjust for this by altering the flow temp so it gets up to your target temp, once there it reduced the flow to balance the losses vs the heat input to maintain your target 20c
@@ricardobranco7357 . But wouldn’t it make sense if the wc knew ahead of time that the temp was going to drop or conversely was going to rise significantly so it can decide to start heating or stop early rather than reacting at the actual time? i.E there was a sudden drop in temp last night but a quick rise this morning.
@@bordersw1239 Oddly enough my dirt cheap programmable stat from Wolseley has an "Optimisation" option you can enable. In Optimisation start it "learns" how long it takes your home to reach a set temp and turns on the heating a bit earlier. If you enable Optimisation Stop as well it learns how long your home retains heat and turns off a bit earlier. It's actually made by Honeywell, but labelled Center Brand model 340017 for wireless or 340018 for fixed wired. I know it's not really what you were referring to, but in practical terms it does help.
@@bordersw1239 some do, ie nest etc, but it does not account for the specifics around your house like wind corridors, living in a bit of a valley etc.
Knowing what conditions are actually outside your house is always better as is it accounts in realtime for actual weather in your location.
Temps may rise or drops differently from predictions. When was the last time they said it would rain but was sunny and vica- versa, changes also depending on which service you ask.
@@ricardobranco7357 I agree with you. My "local" internet weather data comes from 25 miles away in the plain of York. Up here in the Dales the weather patterns are often very different and the ambient temperature can be a good 1.5-2C lower than down in the Vale of York. They also get fog in winter that we don't get as we are much higher up, and the situation is reversed. Sensor on the house wherever possible !
I would also mention that anyone with a boiler that heats their home AND a hot water cylinder needs to understand how the weather compensation interacts with flow temperatures needed to heat the cylinder to the required temperature. If the weather compensation is calling for a flow temperature of 40C, this is never going to be able to heat the water in the hot water cylinder to 50C! Many boilers can be setup to heat the hot water cylinder on a priority basis, and this can also include setting a suitable flow temperature for heating the water in the cylinder. When there is no demand from the cylinder, the flow temperature can revert to whatever the weather compensation is calling for.
Seams to cost another more to apply weather comp to s and y plans smart wiring centers etc
@@galaxydave69 A Weather Compensation kit from Ideal for a Logic Heat Only or System Boiler on Y or S Plan is about £70. This kit includes a relay that locks out the Weather Comp when Hot Water is calling for heat, so the cylinder gets flow at the proper temperature. You dont need a " smart " wiring centre either, just one extra wire goes from the kit to the HW " on" terminal in the wiring centre to achieve this. They had thought of this requirement. I don't know what other manufacturers do, but they will have thought of how to satisfy hot water cylinders too I'm sure. What they charge for their kit I don't know . Sometimes kits turn up on ebay unused for very reasonable money.
Interesting, but where is the evidence that keeping a boiler cycling on & off all day, and keeping the house at an even temp, is more efficient than having it go thru larger cycles during shorter periods, and being off most of the time? You'd expect boilers to work most efficiently at their designed load, not at partial load.
The aim is to maintain maximum combustion efficiency to extract the most heat from a given amount of gas. Anything you can do to maintain the length of time the boiler runs in condensing mode will assist this, thus tight control of flow temperatures around the 50c level are desirable. With large hot cold cycles your boiler is running at maximum efficiency for short periods only. Weather comp and opentherm should dramatically reduce cycling. They run much longer at a lower condensing temperature as they are not off/on devices like a thermostat, they use thermistors instead that vary load based on temperature measured.
We are in all day, every day and do not have a boiler programmer and only switch on the heating in the evenings when we feel cold. In the winter we wear plenty of clothes to keep warm and there are many evenings we have no need to switch on the room heating at all. Can the weather comp/opentherm be run manually by people like us without all the fuss of programming? bear in mind we do not have any Wi-Fi in the house and not smart mobiles.
You'd need to have a wired open therm room thermostat fitted in conjunction with weather comp or just the open therm room stat. The open therm stat would be programmable for time and temp. This would require you to manually set the temperature.
@@ch4gascare You don't need opentherm to have weather compensation. How easy/costly either or both are to fit depends on the make/ model of boiler and the heating system type. A lot of modern boilers have "plug and play" modules that make it easy. Earlier boilers may have compatibility/ availability issues. The cost of the necessary kit varies quite a lot too. I'd start by asking the boiler manufacturer what is possible and available with the model of boiler, and then do some costings.
@@timhancock6626 you’re right there Tim and the boiler manufacturers options are often the best option, but can be more costly. They would normally be my first choice though, with an external WC sensor connected to the boiler, if it’s available. Open Therm though can you give you internet WC, which is pretty good.
@@ch4gascare I have an old Valliant ecomax 828 combi which has no open therm or ebus. Would a simple TPi room thermostat stop or smooth down the boiler over/under swings.
Indeed. You are your own 'weather compensation'.
I really can't understand how weather comp will be better than just having opentherm
I suppose the benefits of WC become more marginal with opentherm, but it will give your boiler a better baseline flow temp to achieve your target temperature if it can take temperature data from outside as well as inside the property......I think 😱😁
🤘😎🤘
I don't really see how the outdoor temperature is really relevant. Yes outdoor temp will affect the amount of heat loss from the dwelling but the point is the desired indoor temp. If you want an indoor temp of 20c then the boiler will attempt to maintain that regardless of outdoor temp. The only benefit I can see is boiler modulation but again it is the desired temp that is the main factor. I am open to being enlightened. I am fully aware of flow temp regulation and the benefits of condensing. 😀
My solution to setting heat curve is to set room thermostats to as high as they can be set ,in effect removing them from controlling the building’s temperature. I then adjust the heat curve to bring the building temperature above the highest temperature that is desired. When the temperatures stabilize I then set the room thermostats to comfort level desired. The biggest complaint I have is there is no compensation for high winds, or rain which effects the heat loss of the building.
Why don't manufacturers measure the temperature of boiler intake air inside the the.intake as the air is the outside temperature
This would make it self contained in the boiler and less for engineers to fit and repair no batteries cables and RF etc
Thanks for another informative video but would probably mention this applies to combination boilers not heat only!
You can use weather comp on heat only as long as you do priority hot water. Video on that soon
That's not the case Rick ! I have weather comp on heat only on Y plan. There is a relay wired to HW "on" in the wiring centre. It locks out Weather Comp when HW programme is "on" and calling for heat. It all comes in the kit and is an easy install on my Logic.
@@timhancock6626 yes but I was talking about the content of this video.
@@tomkatgastraining yes but I was talking about the content of this video, I don’t think you mentioned you were talking about combination boilers in all the information you gave otherwise you may get people turning down the flow temperature on heat only.
Also didn’t boiler plus only affect combination boilers to add the extra efficiency item like weather compensation heat only just needed time and temperature controls?
@@rickwestwood6258 weather compensation can be applied to any boiler, it's not a combi only application. Boiler management systems have been available in domestic applications for over 40 years. The principles, monitoring ambient and flow temperatures, maximise the extra efficiencies any condensing appliance can achieve.
I always fit boilers with a range rating capability measure radiators add 10% and 10% for pipe work and set boiler to thst and lower flow temp to 58 degree people don’t realise your rads only get to 60 degrees anyhow 😂 smart stat your laughing 👍💪
Viessmann Vitodens 200-W on weather comp. the best there is.
This is what I have and Ive just out the WC sensor on last weekend ....bit of trial now to get the house at the desired temp...1935 Semi....Im going with 1.6 curve at the moment
@@Newmusicreview that’s a good place to start. Leave it for a few days and then make small adjustments at a time. I run 20 degrees morning and evening, 17 during the day and e degrees at night. You’ll never look back. 👍
@@matthewdrew9370 we’re out all day ..should I still set it to 16 or something..Same at night ?
@@Newmusicreview yes. Keep the house ticking over. If the outdoor temperature gets to 10 degrees in the day for example the rads won’t be very warm anyway. If you turn it too low the temperature won’t recover in the evening
Lol not very much money. The Vaillant VR20 costs nearly £200
🤣🤣🤣 Regs 🤣🤣🤣
A weather compensator is the biggest pile of bulls##t, it essentially prevents your heating going on. I have a health condition and need my heating to warm up. I don’t want to save money on heating I want to use my heating when I want.