3D Printed T-Handle Hex Wrench Rack
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- STL's and links: fpfdesigns.com/
Klein T-Handle SAE: amzn.to/4f4FRDP
Klein T-Handle Metric: amzn.to/3LxT2zo
Wera SAE: amzn.to/3zQypMi
Wera Metric: amzn.to/3zQf91y
Part 2: • 3D Printed T-Handle He...
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
Other music used is "Rollerdrome 1994" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist.
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
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These huge parts are a great example where lightning-infill is king. Saves SO much time.
Your definition of worst print quality is definitely different than my definition 😂. Great job as always!
I think a chamfer instead of the curved funnel might be better for easy insertion of the wrench.
I’m begging you… please learn Fusion 360, Onshape or even FreeCAD. Seeing you cobble this together in Sketchup makes my brain hurt, lol.
I couldn't get any of those but shapr3d clicked I think it's a brain type lol
Wow, doing this in sketch-up takes a lot of skill. I would second the request for freecad, not because it is better but because it is what I use.😂
I think the same thing every time
Or possibly Blender with CAD Sketcher,
I used to love SketchUp, it's really powerful, just not for stuff like this, it gets the job done but fusion is SO MUCH EASIER even after you learn just the basics.
I will still use SketchUp for my home projects, or anything bigger than printing size.
100% label the slots. I have taken a number out of my holders in the past for various reasons (plus kids) and if I got to 1 back I don't want to have to count holes to figure out where it goes. I would rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. 😁
Agree with aligning the geometry on the front to make it uniform. That would please my OCD.😆
Lastly on the back that slopes down, consider adding some sort of carry handle so you can pick the whole block up and take it with you.
Thanks for the great and idea generating video!
You kept the grid infill, if I print PLA with this setting it sometimes generates issues, if I use PETG, I can even feel the hotend knocking the as it crosses previous infill lines. I don’t know why this is the default infill. My goto infills are gyroid or 3D honeycomb as they are 3D and provide a bit more “homogeneous” strength The print looks pretty very good IMO.
Dude. I have had this issue of a nozzle scraping infill for ages and I've tried everything. I can't solve it. Gyroid did help but still, if it's a part with a tiny surface adhesion it can fail simply because the damn nozzle likes to kiss it on the way.
I use lightning fill for stuff like this, I also would of probably put more thought into the shape to not have so much needless material, I.E. if I used lightning I would probably of narrowed the holder bits above the toolbox square section in a separated V shape that would allow for more strength to counter the weakness that lightning fill would cause.
How exactly does lightning fill work? I've looked at in in my slicer and there's hardly ever much support. It's also been a while since I've looked at it.
It starts off at the bottom of the print with almost no support but as it builds up it adds more and more in a lightning like fractal pattern until it gets to what actually needs support, in boxy prints it works well as it will use the side walls to support from.
@@MatCatSoft interesting. I'll have to give it a try sometime. I've always been a fan of gyroid.
@@aetherguy881 yeah gyroid is pretty good I do use it quite often especially prints that actually need good strength like if it's going to have a lot of downward pressure on it, for something like screwdrivers though there is almost no actual weight bearing requirement, so lightning would work good, and save a lot of filament.
Yes, label them. Also consider printing on the face where the holes are, get rid of those small facets on that face and put a chamfer at the end of the holes so no support is needed. The holes can stay angled to the sides but I think this will help a lot with printing and make labeling only a couple filament changes since it would be the bottom layer. It may require some other changes to make it fit on the bed but worth it I think.
Yes to the labeling. Also, consider making this a 3 piece design with a base that fits in the box and removable blocks that hold the SAE and metric wrenches separately. My bench projects usually need either metric or standard hex wrenches, not both.
I think this wants to be two pinned together prints. Top part printed in such an orientation, that the top surface is horizontal, and cut between the parts parallel to that, with layer height low enough (0.15-0.2mm-ish) that the funnel comes out smooth. The bottom rest printed upside down and as rough as fast as you can spit it out. Potentially just leave the bottom open so it can be cement filled. One can add protrusions coming up into the corners such that they are self supported and can have rubber feet glued to them.
But yeah actually beautiful print i would say.
This was my thinking too. This would also prevent the issue of droop in the holes blocking it, since they would be printed vertically.
Great work. You could make the top flat and still have the holes in an angle. Colour change I would make a ring round the holes to see them easier even with dim light. You made it to fit your need and everyone has different needs. Great videos. Thanks.
Seems much bulkier than necessary. I’d consider making the face nearer to vertical and angling the bores downward relative to it to maintain the desired orientation.
Having a single planar face would also allow you print it upside down. This would make the labels more efficient to print. You could then also model it as a shell that’s open on the bottom with internal webbing to support the bore tubes. This could make for some significant savings on filament and print time.
Finally adding some magnets to base would provide greater stability without requiring 3/4kg of filament.
This! A single planer face and the bore holes angled. I'd also invert the metric sizes (small on top and big on bottom) and rotate them to have the size read right way up.
I have some metric T handles like yours and I got a crappy flat holder I tossed. You are inspiring me to build one with your funnel idea. I think I’m gonna add some threaded inserts in the bottom so I can screw in some flat or angle metal stock to counter balance the top heaviness. I would add the labels as I don’t think it can’t hurt. If you really wanted to get fancy you could make them two separate pieces with a hinge in the back so you could swing them out in a long line or a v shape on the bench.
Frankly that’s a Pretty good print for the layer height and layer number
Definitely interested in this design. Also casting my vote for labeling and seconding the comment about making it a 3 piece.
Definitely label, intresting print. Also you can do with labels and without as an option
Yes I'd love to see you label them. Also some commenters say please switch CAD programs, and i agree. I use OnShape and love it. It's as good as any aircraft cad, and i have years of experience with other CAD systems. Fusion is great too.
There’s no point in complaining. Use whatever CAD program works for you.
I use 1/4" hex drive bits instead of allen wrenches or T handle types.
Much more versatile drive options. Most often, I use a screwdriver handle type bit driver. Sometimes I use a 1/4" square socket adapter and use my socket wrench tools. I have even used my battery power driver tool.
Thinking bout a t bar handle To take it To my bench?
And Mark it ... 😊 Great Concept and Content...
I get placing the metric wrenches with the hex ends facing outward like the SAE on the other side, but the metric sizes on the handles being upside down hurts my OCD. I would label the holes, just because you already know its likely you will use multiples at times and it will be easier to put them back. I agree with the previous comment that a chamfered hole is easier to line up the wrenches than using a radius since the radius is tangent to the top where it meets the surface. Use whatever CAD you prefer, however I think you would be able to edit, iterate and manipulate your models easier and faster with a parametric modeling software, and like mentioned before, Onshape is free and very easy to learn, especially for someone who already has experience making 3D models.
For easier portability, maybe a handle in the middle that sticks up above the wrenches.
If you’re worried about location due to having multiple T handles out and don’t want a large gap in the center… I recommend start with the biggest one and the top open hole and work your way down the openings; or smallest available and work your way up, problem solved.
As for modeling I use solidworks and it’s the best! lol only because that’s what I started with at school and work. I’d recommend fusion 360 if you’re looking for a free option, powerful and scalable for the future. I’ve used fusion and it’s a good software if you’re not married to one yet and have the willingness to learn.
This design hurt my soul seeing the unnecessary features added to fill in the gap, it reminds me of my beginning solidworks surfacing skills 😂. Hey, practice makes perfect and approach is key to a design. I’d personally start with what I know which is my constraints. It could be 2D or 3D, but I’d sketch the exact toolbox opening the sketch the overall T handle(s). Then I’d copy and paste making dimensional adjustments to each; you could maybe scale the T handles once you make one to get you in the ballpark with spacing. It might seem like a lot of work upfront, but you will have less print time and a faster result that is perfect and future proof if a toolbox changes (other projects might appreciate use this reasoning more). You could also cut print time by cutting out the center section / area(s), since it’s not vital to the design when doing these rapid prototype experiments, if you’re not interested in modeling more parts.
Overall, it’s a potential functional upgrade that is worth doing over being content with what you’re given with your purchase. I’ll have to do the same with my set of Klein’s, once I figure out my wants for the design.
Definitely labels. As far as that empty space in the front, I'd put regular 90 degree hex wrenches in there. Make a separate block and Gloop it. I have these exact same sets and I hate the rack they came in. I've already decided to print this regardless of what you end up with. Thanks for sharing.
I like the idea of the labels in the middle of the holder but just an acrylic pen or highlighter on the labels if you make them embossed. No need to waste so much time on a multi-colour print. I'd also love to see you make it either hollow or sink down in the middle section (maybe a sliding container out the back?) to reduce the amount of filament used as that thing is a monster eating all your filament lol.
Base looks a bit too light and gets top-heavy, may cause issues for desk usage. A weight-fillable cavity might be useful. Dead no-break battery maybe?
Most of my prints are functional prints. My rule of thumb is: if it mostly works, leave it the way it is and use it for a while. Then I can tally up changes that I want to make in a week or two.
Great job you should put labels on it will complete the look, also how about magnets on the bottom side in case you that the whole thing out you won't have to worry about it falling over you can just put it on a metal surface, just a thought. 👍
Labeling would be nice. Bring them a bit closer into the middle, and since there are fewer metric wrenches, offset or stagger them in that verrtical space. You could also then angle them out to the left and right into an X-pattern. This could keep the profile smaller, more vertical, and the weight distributed evenly for such a tall print
One could add an integrated handle at the back, you know, like a cave for the hand to grab when moving to the workbench or elsewhere.
I think maybe a handle down the middle with the sizes on the handle so that you can pick it up and put it down somewhere and the sizes aren’t obscured
Maybe add a handle to it. It already looks like a portable kit, a handle would make that even more convenient.
And as others have said, I left grid infill behind a long time ago. My current favourite is the Cross Hatch at 12% in Bambu Slicer, but otherwise Gyroid or 3D Honeycomb (the new version in the latest Orca and Bambu slicers) are both great options.
As is, only putting in a big handle in the middle allows you to easily take the whole thing out and move it to where your working
I’d consider printing an ideation where one set goes in ascending order and the other descending to maybe optimize space even further
Id not lable them so you could use metric and torx or sae and torx but I would put a ring round the hole to make it more visible for lining up the return
When you do the initial test prints ... do you change any of the printing specs (infill, etc) for quicker printing?
I have the same problem / holder with the Allen brand T-handles I have for the lathe too.
Maybe some sort of skeleton support between the sides, like a truss bridge instead of “solid”
you should label close to the holes the size so you know which size your missing when its not in its home. put a finger hole/slot in back so its easy to pull out and carry to another station. add some rubber feet and or magnets so it doesnt slide around ?
It would save a lot of the footprint area if you ran both in opposing direction from largest to smallest. ie smallest on top metric - smallest on bottom imperial.
yes label then use a second color like white for visibility of the #'s.
Nice way to spend the day being creative, designing a solution. IMO, Labels are not extremely useful unless the text is in a contrasting color. Bambu does a very nice job of laying down a contrasting color on-top of the surface with only one color change. But with your angled surface, you’ll be spending days making color changes, and probably 1/2 a filament spool of poop waste. I have found a high quality label maker is really handy 👍😎👍
Seems like a lot wasted space inside the box.. Maybe add a grab handle on the back to carry it from the toolbox to where you want it?
Or perhaps a (maybe a T handle 😂) handle coming up from the middle angled so the block will come straight up.
Thumb up for the Kubota sticker on your box ❤
I'm curious after following you for a while - What do you do (if anything) about material recycling? I'm at a point in my 3d printing where getting a shredder/extruder/spooler setup could pay for itself, but everyone who makes them wants thousands of USD for the machines. I'm not sure I'll ever be in a place where I can convince myself to spend $2.5k+ on a filament extruder.
I know there's DIY solutions, but only the unemployed have time for that nonsense.
cool!! hope your vacation went well
label on the outside walls?
Kudos to you if that is your "worst" print ever.. .. I got you beat by a long shot! 😂😢
For super fast draft printing tys lightning infill. :)
print the label separate and glue it on
Variable layer height may help here.
Adaptive cubic is your friend for infill
100% put labels you mitwant to put some wight in the base like sand nad some way to blow out the hole and last mangnet under them to keep them in place
If you label them, you're going to have the problem of the labels and the top of the T handles being on an odd angle. I think if you have several of them out, it's not going to be as simple putting them back as labelling would have you believe.
Label them and color match the labels to the color of the wrench
I wouldn’t label them.
Add a handle
Lable both sides of the holes.
Put a handle on it so you can be mobile with it
inset text
If that's the worst quality you've ever had then oh buy you must be spoiled... That print is horrid but for all other reasons but the quality.