For people watching this , getting ready to do this job; If you are an novice mechanic like this gentleman, get a torque wrench before you start. Do it and use it until you get a feel for how much torque you are using. Yes, everything on a bike needs to be tight but only the correct tight, not Mongo tight. Don't crank down on small fasteners. Also, do not tighten ANY of the pipe clamps or pipe mount bolts until everything is in place except the heat shields. Tightening sequence: Start at the head where the pipe goes into the motor and work your way aft. At the head is the most critical connection. Everything else should move to line up to meet IT, not vise versa. It's best to use a torque wrench no matter how much experience you have. They are fairly inexpensive and pay for themselves the first time you DON'T over-torque a fastener that either snaps going on or next time you take it back off. Don't treat your fine machine like an old jalopy. You will see exactly what I mean if you try it. "EVERYONE's" inclination is to over torque unless you just miss a fastener completely (try to avoid that too). Test me. 17:18
Doing this does make a difference to the bike in a positive way in my opinion, just done it myself. In regards to that gasket not fitting on the left header pipe, I had the same issue. I ended up using copper silicone on the slits, just to make sure there was no air or debris getting in. Then tightened the clamp over the top of it.
Hi, Thanks for the video. How do you feel with the bike now ? We cannot hear a big difference with the sound, but did you feel the bike more responsive and having more power ? Cheers
Completely unrelated to the exhaust, what side carrier mount are you running on the left side? I have been looking at several options and have not come across that setup.
Hi, Nice video that helped me very much to install mine. I really appreciated that the motor is more responsive and it doesn't get warm as much as with the original part. I also have the same question as Jason about the side carrier on the left side. What is the brand / model ?
Alternatively, instead of replacing the beautifully crafted OEM Triumph header pipes with the ugly Freespirits headers which have a hideous weld on show right in the middle of the front header, simply slip the OEM headers off, carefully cut the CAT box open with an angle grinder along one of its seams, and throw the CAT unit away and get any local welder to seal it the CAT box again and for a fraction of the cost you retain the nice original headers and gain power, torque, a fantastic sound and 8-10 mpg better fuel consumption, because the empty CAT box now becomes a proper mixing chamber which is all the H pipe link does less efficiently.
For people watching this , getting ready to do this job; If you are an novice mechanic like this gentleman, get a torque wrench before you start. Do it and use it until you get a feel for how much torque you are using. Yes, everything on a bike needs to be tight but only the correct tight, not Mongo tight. Don't crank down on small fasteners.
Also, do not tighten ANY of the pipe clamps or pipe mount bolts until everything is in place except the heat shields. Tightening sequence: Start at the head where the pipe goes into the motor and work your way aft. At the head is the most critical connection. Everything else should move to line up to meet IT, not vise versa.
It's best to use a torque wrench no matter how much experience you have. They are fairly inexpensive and pay for themselves the first time you DON'T over-torque a fastener that either snaps going on or next time you take it back off. Don't treat your fine machine like an old jalopy. You will see exactly what I mean if you try it. "EVERYONE's" inclination is to over torque unless you just miss a fastener completely (try to avoid that too). Test me. 17:18
Nice. Clear show of the steps and took your time. A lot of people seem to skip a lot of the little steps, but this was good.
What can you say about fuel consumption? Does it increase much?
Doing this does make a difference to the bike in a positive way in my opinion, just done it myself. In regards to that gasket not fitting on the left header pipe, I had the same issue. I ended up using copper silicone on the slits, just to make sure there was no air or debris getting in. Then tightened the clamp over the top of it.
Hi mate love the video and where did you get the radiator cover ? Looks great
Wife - "Do you know where all the new hand towels have gone?"
Husband- "Umm, no..."
Hi, Thanks for the video. How do you feel with the bike now ? We cannot hear a big difference with the sound, but did you feel the bike more responsive and having more power ? Cheers
Completely unrelated to the exhaust, what side carrier mount are you running on the left side? I have been looking at several options and have not come across that setup.
Hi, Nice video that helped me very much to install mine. I really appreciated that the motor is more responsive and it doesn't get warm as much as with the original part. I also have the same question as Jason about the side carrier on the left side. What is the brand / model ?
Alternatively, instead of replacing the beautifully crafted OEM Triumph header pipes with the ugly Freespirits headers which have a hideous weld on show right in the middle of the front header, simply slip the OEM headers off, carefully cut the CAT box open with an angle grinder along one of its seams, and throw the CAT unit away and get any local welder to seal it the CAT box again and for a fraction of the cost you retain the nice original headers and gain power, torque, a fantastic sound and 8-10 mpg better fuel consumption, because the empty CAT box now becomes a proper mixing chamber which is all the H pipe link does less efficiently.
You think this fit a 2022 Triumph Street Scrambler Storm Edition?
Great video! What was the catbox model number on your original cat? Was it T2202929 or T2202952?
That’s what I want to know . I’m having trouble trying to see if this will fir my 2019 SS
No need to tune?