Superb and intelligent evaluation of cask. I'm a long time British cask beer drinker and home brewer. This really defines the difference between doubtless exciting craft beer flavours (I love those as well!) and traditional cask ale which is so wonderfully rounded and satisfying when it's the first pint you quaff in an English pub. This is the experience in my local in Littlebourne, Kent, England. We take cask for granted as the default way to serve real ale. Good work guys.
Not quite how we do it in the uk but enjoyed the video. Normally we stop fermentation two gravity points before final gravity then rack to cask. It’s the secondary fermentation that happens that give the cask its “magic”.
If you’re pulling off 2 points before final, how long are you conditioning the beer? Assuming small beers 7 days, bigger beers two, three weeks? Thanks!
I am trying to learn, thanks for responding:) When you pull off 2 point before final gravity, does that mean you do not have to prime with sugar/yeast? Also, how typically would you add finings to the cask or hops? In America, we crop our yeast a few point before final is done, then dry hop and let it finish. How would this be done how you’re taught? Sorry for the long response, just would love to pick your brain!
@@tylerhaas14 and that’s the best part “in my opinion” of brewing. So many way to cut it. Cold crash at 2 points before final will stop/ slow down yeast activity and has enough to yeast to finish off. Cold crash length again is down to recipe but for finings, traditionally we would use isinglass, more common to see a silicone replacement nowadays. I seen a episode on brewing tv where the brewery added a “hop plug” to the cask. I much prefer to dry hop in the fv, I believe it to be cleaner. Cask could be on the hop plug for some time. I know you guys love your dry hopping, watch out for hop creep.
@@greigthomson8475 cool thanks for the info! I have a small brew pub in planning and am doing three beer engines as well as draft, love to pick peoples brains. There’s a lot of different ways to do it I guess it mostly depends on what works best for your space. I will be vigilant watching for hop creep! Haha
Cheers friend we just subscribed after your video found us . We love to home brew beer ,grow hops make mead and wines and others on our channel ,stay thirsty and brew good beer.
What was used as a sanitizer? And 500 ml? It looked like peroxyacetic acid bit that can't be right because PAA is expensive and 500 ml is way over the amount that's needed ~ 100 ml in 10 gallons of water is more like it. I enjoyed this video but there's a lot of information missing.
If a cask becomes over pressurized, the shive/keystone can be compromised and cause your cask to burst it's contents all over the floor. If the floor is sloped to a trench drain it will make cleaning up a lot easier.
Small amount of fermentation, can still happen. It has residual CO2 in solution from the primary. Flocculation increases after activity stops, and is meant to happen at the establishment. It can only be disturbed once, which is delivery.
I had a custom thing welded from an old keg and a barrel washing spray head. It’s set up like a basic wort grant. Then I can use our basic brewhouse pump to recirc caustic through the system. Procedure is basic, hot rinse from HLT, exterior scrub, caustic wash, hot rinse, visual inspection, then sanitize. Then before use, hot rinse/kill, and then sanitizer. I can send my design sketches. Just DM.
If you can’t get a nice set up like that, rinse thoroughly, fill with 180 degree water and add a small amount of CMC (chlorinated manual cleaner) leave overnight or 24 hours, another thorough rinse and you’re clean. All you need to do when filling is sanitize
Half the amount you would in a firkin! What form is the isinglass you are using? And the supplier? Any decent supplier will provide usage guidelines. If you currently use it for brite beer, use the same rate for cask. I do not use isinglass anymore, just Biofine Clear which I use at a rate of 128mL/US BBL (22mL/pin). That rate should be fine for isinglass as well but the supplier will know best. Make sure to roll the cask well to get the isinglass nicely mixed in the beer.
I'm not exactly sure what you are saying. If a brewer is utilizing a cold crash method post diacetyl rest then priming is not necessary for Northern-style beer engine service as sufficient CO2 is dissolved in the beer to pour correctly. Adding priming sugar, thus over-carbonating the beer, means that aging takes longer because of the refrementation in the cask, and the cellar will need to vent the cask for hours to days before it is ready to put on. This will not be enough CO2 for Southern-style or for gravity pouring.
Superb and intelligent evaluation of cask. I'm a long time British cask beer drinker and home brewer. This really defines the difference between doubtless exciting craft beer flavours (I love those as well!) and traditional cask ale which is so wonderfully rounded and satisfying when it's the first pint you quaff in an English pub. This is the experience in my local in Littlebourne, Kent, England. We take cask for granted as the default way to serve real ale. Good work guys.
I came for a beginner's guide, this is next level. Did not know the States had a single cask, good work.
I must come to the States and try your ale. Good to know I won't be too far from a decent British style pint if I'm ever in California. ♥️🇬🇧
Not quite how we do it in the uk but enjoyed the video.
Normally we stop fermentation two gravity points before final gravity then rack to cask.
It’s the secondary fermentation that happens that give the cask its “magic”.
If you’re pulling off 2 points before final, how long are you conditioning the beer? Assuming small beers 7 days, bigger beers two, three weeks? Thanks!
@@tylerhaas14 that’s right, each abv/recipes have there own conditioning times.
I am trying to learn, thanks for responding:)
When you pull off 2 point before final gravity, does that mean you do not have to prime with sugar/yeast? Also, how typically would you add finings to the cask or hops?
In America, we crop our yeast a few point before final is done, then dry hop and let it finish. How would this be done how you’re taught?
Sorry for the long response, just would love to pick your brain!
@@tylerhaas14 and that’s the best part “in my opinion” of brewing. So many way to cut it.
Cold crash at 2 points before final will stop/ slow down yeast activity and has enough to yeast to finish off. Cold crash length again is down to recipe but for finings, traditionally we would use isinglass, more common to see a silicone replacement nowadays.
I seen a episode on brewing tv where the brewery added a “hop plug” to the cask. I much prefer to dry hop in the fv, I believe it to be cleaner. Cask could be on the hop plug for some time.
I know you guys love your dry hopping, watch out for hop creep.
@@greigthomson8475 cool thanks for the info! I have a small brew pub in planning and am doing three beer engines as well as draft, love to pick peoples brains. There’s a lot of different ways to do it I guess it mostly depends on what works best for your space.
I will be vigilant watching for hop creep! Haha
Wicked video! Keep em coming!! We should have you on our show one of these days!
Cheers friend we just subscribed after your video found us . We love to home brew beer ,grow hops make mead and wines and others on our channel ,stay thirsty and brew good beer.
What was used as a sanitizer? And 500 ml? It looked like peroxyacetic acid bit that can't be right because PAA is expensive and 500 ml is way over the amount that's needed ~ 100 ml in 10 gallons of water is more like it. I enjoyed this video but there's a lot of information missing.
Awesome video!
Nice Keith Haring tat 😎
10:04 why the sloping floor recommendation here?
If a cask becomes over pressurized, the shive/keystone can be compromised and cause your cask to burst it's contents all over the floor. If the floor is sloped to a trench drain it will make cleaning up a lot easier.
Indeed! Nothing like flooding a room with beer.
Doesn’t biofine drop the yeast if you’re priming, thereby killing any refermentation that should occur?
Small amount of fermentation, can still happen. It has residual CO2 in solution from the primary. Flocculation increases after activity stops, and is meant to happen at the establishment. It can only be disturbed once, which is delivery.
What's your cask CIP setup like? Trying to build one for our brewery.
I had a custom thing welded from an old keg and a barrel washing spray head. It’s set up like a basic wort grant. Then I can use our basic brewhouse pump to recirc caustic through the system. Procedure is basic, hot rinse from HLT, exterior scrub, caustic wash, hot rinse, visual inspection, then sanitize. Then before use, hot rinse/kill, and then sanitizer. I can send my design sketches. Just DM.
@@dirkchiverism Hey can i get a copy of that CIP set up please?
Ian Steele can you DM your email? I’ll see if I can get the build sheet sent over. Sorry for the delay.
@@dirkchiverism hey man no worries. Ian@curraheebrew.com
If you can’t get a nice set up like that, rinse thoroughly, fill with 180 degree water and add a small amount of CMC (chlorinated manual cleaner) leave overnight or 24 hours, another thorough rinse and you’re clean. All you need to do when filling is sanitize
great video
How much isinglass do I put in a pin cask?
Half the amount you would in a firkin! What form is the isinglass you are using? And the supplier? Any decent supplier will provide usage guidelines. If you currently use it for brite beer, use the same rate for cask. I do not use isinglass anymore, just Biofine Clear which I use at a rate of 128mL/US BBL (22mL/pin). That rate should be fine for isinglass as well but the supplier will know best. Make sure to roll the cask well to get the isinglass nicely mixed in the beer.
By not adding priming sugar is the beer not very flat.
I'm not exactly sure what you are saying. If a brewer is utilizing a cold crash method post diacetyl rest then priming is not necessary for Northern-style beer engine service as sufficient CO2 is dissolved in the beer to pour correctly. Adding priming sugar, thus over-carbonating the beer, means that aging takes longer because of the refrementation in the cask, and the cellar will need to vent the cask for hours to days before it is ready to put on. This will not be enough CO2 for Southern-style or for gravity pouring.