I love the humility to be able to admit the shortcomings of the purchase. A lot of people refuse to admit the negatives, especially when they spent so much money on a thing. This video was great, you’re great, and this whole damn channel is great.
I do love that you go back and revisit your previous mods and installs so often to give followup observations... so many youtubers out there promise to do so, and never get around to it. Thank you and keep up the great content.
Loctite, as others have mentioned, is a good recommendation but I suggest using rubber washers in conjunction to mitigate the loose tolerances and rattle. You can squish them as tight as you need to and the Loctite will hold it in place.
@Chloe Kuo Excellent video. But I would wait for the 2nd Gen Stinger Heig10 units. (Custom Car Audio installer here). I much prefer the *Kenwood eXcelon Reference DNX-series* 10.1" floating screen head units. The screen quality is better and these have a Volume Knob as well and better Sound Quality than the Stinger if you aren't using its Toslink Digital Output. The Kenwood combined with an *iDataLink Maestro RR* OEM integration module will retain the OEM features as well as give you custom programmable Steering Wheel Control buttons, and each button can have a Dual Function by using a single press or "long press". For instance, both my Volume Up & Volume Down will also MUTE the audio with a Long-Press of those buttons. You also might want to look at the newly released Alpine *HALO iLX-F509* or *iLX-F511* 9" or 11" screen respectively, combined with an iDataLink Maestro RR module to keep the OEM features and add custom programmable dual-function steering wheel control buttons. It doesnt have the built-in Volume Knob. HOWEVER, you can add the optional *Alpine RUX-H02* Remote Volume Knob which can attach to either side of the screen, or it can be mounted ANYWHERE in the vehicle as it is wireless. To eliminate the noise from the stereo dash kit plastic parts rubbing or rattling against each other, use strips of automotive *Tesa Tape* interior fuzzy fabric tape between all of the plastic and/or metal parts. "Tesa Tape" is used by the OEMs and is typically used to wrap the wiring harness wire bundles together, but it works well to eliminate squeaks and rattles between mating interior trim panels or mounting tabs and clips, etc. The Tesa Tape is extremely thin and compressible. Rubber "Fender Washers" might work well but might be too thick for some applications. You can simply build up multiple layers of the Tesa Tape if you need it to be thicker to fill larger gaps, etc. I WOULD NOT use LOCTITE. You want to be able to remove the stereo dash mounting kit for maintenance, and LOCTITE will typically damage the plastic threads during screw removal making the parts unusable. Even when using the LOCTITE specifically made for plastic.
Replacing the tweeters was the best upgrade. Huge difference! Then replaced all the door speakers with kickers, helped a lot but almost no bass. I added a cheap Rockwell powered sub, it’s amazing! Totally kills the Bose in my Infiniti . I don’t think you need to replace the whole unit….but that’s kinda what you get paid for right.
I've got a 2019 TRD Sport with a 6-speed manual. In addition I have the Heigh10 and love it. I do notice the same rattling when off-road. I'll be looking at foam strips and maybe rubber washers to put in soon. When installing the headunit, I also rerouted my usb that sends data to the unit to my center console. Game changer for a clean setup and not having to battle the usb cord when shifting. It would've been super convenient to have wireless carplay and just plop the phone on the wireless charger. Love the channel!
should check out the kit from trail grid pro, uses a Sony head unit instead of generic and has wireless carplay. All the wires are also plugged in already so just need to do vehicle side connections.
For the squeky/rattling problem. If you have to take it apart again, put little squares of electical tape between the screw holes and then screw through them, use the electrical tape like washers. Also you can put electrical other places to fill voids to keep it from rattling. Its easier to add more then it is to remove some.
Chloe that a pretty good review I just got the HEIGH10 for my tundra. I agree with all the negatives you listed. I had previously had upgraded speakers and amplifier with a subwoofer added so upgrading to this headunit made the sound so much better.
I have a smaller Pioneer aftermarket head unit, and it has wireless Apple CarPlay. I love that! It’s nice to not have to plug in if I’m just running some errands and popping in and out.
Nice upgrade! I just replaced my 09 Taco DCLB old (2010 year Pioneer DEH-P6200BT Sat, Blth) with a cheap Walmart (Power Acoustik) plug-n-play apple car play & andriod auto car stereo 6" screen clearance $65.00! We bought two! The straight digital sounds are amazing with Rockford Prime D class 4 100x 4 ohms powering. (Front) Polk audio db6501 6.5" max 300w rms 100 impedance 4 ohms,(Rear) Polk db651 6.5" max 180 rms 60 impedance 4 ohms. (Sub Amp Kicker) 11dx500 mono amp wired at 2 ohm to produce full 500 watts rms,(2) 10" Kicker subwoofers 4 ohms 150 rms to a ported sub box. Once you do the complete sound upgrade you will never want less!
Your awesome Chloe keep up the good work on the reviews. I installed the stinger in my 2019 Tacoma and I’m loving it. I look forward to more of your videos.
I put the Sony xav9500es in my Tacoma and it is amazing , boots up lightning fast , wireless CarPlay works flawlessly, no rattling , screen is amazing . It’s expensive but worth every penny in my opinion
@@jorgeortiz7612 I love the until , it has worked flawlessly . I never used the factory navigation but you do loose it . They installed the idatalink maestro so I still have my steering wheel controls as well as lots of vehicle information / gauges on the new head unit . I just use the wireless Apple CarPlay for google maps etc. you can also use android auto if you have an android . It’s a great unit and I haven’t had any problems with it
For those of you interested, the Sony XAV 9500ES has wireless apple and android car play. Some downsides as well, if it’s definitely an option to consider.
I have a sub $400 android unit in for over a year and not only is it as badass as having a tablet it looks OEM. I have no complaints. Wireless carplay works flawless
i was thinking about upgrading my screen, after this i'm definitely sure i don't want to. i just got a 2021 trd sport about a week ago and i'm coming from an 07 tacoma trd sport, i can't stand having to look at the screen for backing up, i also don't like having to use a screen for pretty much anything, i stick to my mirrors. i like that i can control my music from the steering wheel and my android auto just connects immediately when i turn my vehicle on. the only plus for me when it comes to a screen is the gps is much larger than on my phone, otherwise i could do without it. great video though, been enjoying your content recently. i've been trying to get as much info about 3rd gen tacomas as i can now that i have one
Nice vids, and many good points 👍. For me, Cloth Tessa Tape, and 3M double stick foam tape have been my go-to for chasing down/ eliminating interior rattles and squeaks, etc.
As some have mentioned instead of using Loctite, use rtv silicone as it is designed to be used with rubber gaskets. The idea for rubber washers is a good idea also. You can also put some if the rtv silicone in between the factory panel and the mount which will also help hold everything in place.
You can get this for a lot less on Crutchfield, if anyone is interested ($1390). If you want built in GPS, you will need the Stinger SE-P14 ($180). Great reviews! Keep up the good work!
This was a very comprehensive review and you pointed out things that others did not. This made a difference as I was just going to purchase it but I am not as convinced. Not for the price point. Maybe I just dont know enough about different systems but this seems like some pretty accurate criticisms that could easily be addressed. The positives were very good, I just dont know that the negatives were overshadowed by the positives. At least it gave a better view of what you are getting. Nice work.
Cars sure have came a long way in 100 years. It's hard to believe people used a horse to pull a wagon down a dirt road and no air conditioning and it took a long time to get where you are going. Now look at where we are. Pretty amazing
Just got a 10 Sequoia waiting to get the heigh10 installed from previous vehicle but I love everything bout it can't go wrong with it worth every penny
As stated located (blue) some type of washer to distribute the force. Maybe add a thin rubber or even weather strip around where it mates up to factory dash to absorb the road, or off road, shock. But great video thank you.
I bought my first Toyota truck in 1987 before they were branded Tacoma. I recently purchased a 2021 with wired CarPlay, I plan on replacing the dash speakers with tweeters, dynamat for the doors and a small amp and subwoofer. Replacing the head unit will not improve the audio quality a noticeable amount.
Loctite is the key for those loose screws. Just make sure you use blue 242 loctite; because you will still be able to unscrew them if need. BTW, since I already have the Heigh10 I decided to buy my aftermarket kit and is on the way. Saved me some coin without being stuck with having an additional Heigh10 laying around.
Thanks for the review, I installed one after your previous install video and I am very happy with the unit, no squeaks! Do you regret losing a place for your cell phone holder? I noticed you had the phone upside down in the cup holder. I had your previous cell phone holder and had to remove it to make room for the stinger so I brought the angled version of the mount and the drop in cell phone holder that has the connected power cable from pro clips. It works for me! It is on the right side of the stinger. It has the potential to slide off but I find that there is just enough grip from the mount that it holds in place all the time. Keep up the good work! I think every one of my mods has been inspired by you👍
Have you considered using loctite on the screws for the back? I’m not sure what those screws are plated in but there will need to be either copper or iron present for the loctite to cure. So worse case you’ll need a primer for the loctite and then you should be good!
I've had mine for at least a year now and have zero regrets with it. Coming from what was in my JBL system in my 2017 this is light years better. Sure i miss the compass but how often I used it I just dont care, plus I have one built into the top showing the direction in my mirror still that works fine I use much more. Its expensive is the only issue I ever had and still have. Also the lack of features in the Tacoma version over the software they have on the Jeep versions is way more limited. I wish we got all the amazing stuff they put in the Jeep model.
Did you replace your factory speakers per chance? I did with JBL and the performance / sound while cleaner, is not as loud. If so, does the head unit power them well? thanks.
why not use a bit of blue locktight on the screws behind the plastic plate and use some small thin rubber washer fittings to avoid the stripping, dampen the movement sound and lock the components well :)
I really think you should ditch the stinger and go with a traditional aftermarket head unit like one of the Kenwoods. They have large screen options with volume knobs as well. The result will be better than the compromises Stinger sticks you with. A Maestro RR can be used to integrate the ratio to the vehicle and will retain all those vehicle settings options like the factory radio had. The maestro also runs the steering wheel controls which are fully programmable as a bonus (I flipped volume vs seek/skip, I added a play/pause toggle control and a screen off control). So your issue #5 is fixed with the way I set the Maestro up :) ALSO - on my 2021 the compass and now playing section on the cluster did NOT work. Once I added my radio and Maestro, the now playing section started working and I can control the music with the right side steering wheel controls. My compass still does not work and never did. Overall I think Stinger is capitalizing on the “all plug and play bolt on” aspect and using that as a reason to deliver a less than superior product and they certainly aren’t cutting anyone any breaks on pricing for that. Just a thought, but I bet you’d be happier with something else. You’re smart enough to wire it up (it’s not that much work) and any help can be found on the forum. Lastly, I wouldn’t wish for wireless CarPlay too much. My kenwood has it and it is not great. It drains the phone battery like crazy and it glitchy despite using Wi-Fi to make the connection. With the rate it drains phone battery, the phone needs to be plugged in. If it has to be plugged in, then you may as well not even have wireless to begin with and just use the more reliable wired connection.
So true with the wireless carplay and android auto. I have a Kenwood DDX9906XR in my 2014 Corolla and the wireless goes out all the time. But it does have the plugin option to still get the android auto. I have the Stinger system in my 2016 Tacoma like Chloe does and it is just a OK system the price should be much cheaper than it is the resolution isn't as good as my Kenwood in my Corolla but it does the job. It's much better than the JBL OEM system that came in the truck. Only downside you loose some vehicle functions like door lock control beep control and compass which all 3 I never used anyway and as Chloe said it boots up slow but the good points is you gain Apple Car Play and Android Auto the wired Car Play And Android Auto works great and the sound is much better and louder than the OEM system. And it looks great in the truck which is why I got it
@@stetsongray5355 maybe but I don’t know that those two work with each other. I doubt it, I bet the brain being used to run the steering wheel controls and such (the job the maestro does) is probably a proprietary stinger product. That said even if it was compatible with the maestro, I’d still rather a large screen kenwood than the stinger myself. But maybe that’s just me.
From past experience and the factory head unit in my 2020 Tacoma, I’m just convinced all of them are overpriced junk. No matter how much I’ve spent, or the brand name. They have all been terrible! Oh, and be ready for that “device not supported crap” because it only gets worse! Eventually it won’t work at all! 😑 Tablets are cheaper, and they do far more. So it just doesn’t make sense to me why no company can get it right, at a reasonable price.
@@bonaanayaga any tablet, even the cheapest ones would be far more worth the money than these outdated garbage head units. The fact they STILL SAY device not supported after all these years shows, they still use the same things they have for the past 8 or so years. It’s the same crap with different names on them. I wish a company would step up already and make something worth the money because they should all be far better than this by now.
Jensen Car 910W floating unit is what I have in my 3rd gen and its great! Also did kickers in all doors, tweeters and added an infinity 8 inch sub amp combo. Killer sound!
Hey Chloe, love your channel! Have you considered using Loctite on the screws, to keep them from backing off? Keep the awesome and informative videos coming!
Do not put loctite on screws that screw into plastic! It will soften the plastic and it will fall apart. That was ABS plastic which I assume is used here also. I made that mistake a long time ago.
As for the features I like... I love the screen size. I LOVE the multi camera function (though I wish it had a split screen mode, and none of the reviewers I have seen have shown one that I recall) (I am not sure those two features justify $1500+ replacement head unit that results in malfunction or loss of function of other factory features, especially for someone on a budget that still needs things like a winch bumper and better skid plates) Prior to the release of this head unit, I was seriously considering a rearview anytime camera mod with an aftermarket "Birds Eye Camera System" wired into the "front camera" mode, and using a separate rearview camera system designed for RVs as my primary review system (as my bed cap does block a large portion of my rear vision). I had initially seen this head unit as an alternative (with a couple video switches to allow me to switch rearview camera between one or two truck mounted switches, and a future wireless receiver for a trailer camera, and possibly an regular forward camera, and an alternate forward thermal camera (I found some camera sensors, and was looking into the electronics to make my own for FAR less than commercially available units) allowing me to see those deer (or pedestrians) on the side of the road at night) To be honest, I have been content with my audio options. I use android, and with the exception of a gremlin or two, my bluetooth audio has worked fine, my sat radio works fine except when I am deep in the hills and valleys... my only complaint is I can not use voice to text while using bluetooth (something I tried for the first time in the two years I have been driving my 2018 TRD Off Road only yesterday when an old friend and I where driving home to separate locations after getting together 200 miles from home.) My friend had his wife with him so one could text while the other drove. I was solo, so I had to use text to voice to receive messages, but had to rely on the default messages on the radio screen to reply or to call him back. (You CAN IN THEORY use voice command for those pre packaged replies, but mine could not recognize my answers for some reason)
I was thinking in the install video, that thin high density foam strips would have helped to minimize any plastic creaking. Toyota does this a lot where different plastics meet especially in dash components. You can also use either Loctite on the screws or white Teflon tape on the screw treads (2 wraps).
If you install weather stripping in between the Height 10 mount and the factory surface it’ll eliminate the rattling and excess shaking and also maintain the tightness of the screws
you could contact with the seller about this problem,or you maybe need to set the steer wheel control,then you could control the head unit on your steer wheel.have a try.
Considering you can get a new 2020+ Apple Carplay and Andriod Auto compatible unit for around $1500, and used from a wreck around 1K it sounds like an OEM upgrade is still the way to go.
Car play is still wired? How can a company put out a stereo in this day and age with a wired only car play? Bluetooth chips are so cheap. Can you put a couple strips of electrical tape on the stereo mounts to soften the squeaking? It’s the cheap thin plastic they used to mount the stereo. Electric tape or gaffers tape. Always great videos Stay happy healthy and fluid
Painting a thin coat of polyurethane inside the plastic shell will make it a lot stronger. I rebuilt a engine mount using polyurethane and came out great.
Just yesterday I was looking at this and really liked it until I started reading the comments. The one comment that changed my mind is that it was not Sirius XM compatible without buying more equipment and some complained about the picture quality of the screen. Those were deal breakers. Especially for that much money.
For the rattles, how about gluing thin felt between where plastic meets plastic, and using internal tooth lock washers on the bolts. Cut some felt "gaskets" to size and spray them lightly on one side with some 3M contact cement, then apply. Also, you can get wireless car play adapters. I use a Motorola MA1 for Android Auto on my 2020 TRD Pro. Also, 2020 TRD Pro cameras are only available until you reach a couple miles per hour. Then it switches back to Toyota DIS/Entune (because having cams while driving would be scary🙄).
Great Vid! I have same tacoma unit... A problem I have is the cable that attaches the screen to the head unit, rattles loose and it disconnects the phone connection. I have to push it in from time to time. Going to tape or glue it soon so bumps don't disconnect the phone connection. But overall its a great unit. Sounds much better than my stock unit!
Good review! The boot up time is due to CarPlay, I have a wireless dongle hooked up for mine so I can comfortably text and drive. But damn, they lost me at that mount. Kinda bulgy and should’ve atleast put a bumper in between the plastic. All I can imagine is 2 styrofoam to-go boxes just rubbing all up on themselves on the drive home. I feel like if they spent another 2 days engineering it and charged another $100-$200 they could’ve just done the entire piece minus the air vents or something.
i am happy with my myltimedia wireless carplay or android auto, easy to install, hassle-free, cheap ,one usb connection can play netflix , amazon video or youtube or music or movie from flash drive. for any time camera i had to install front camera which i really like, toggle switch plays front or back camera while driving useful for off roading
It’s only held on by friction unlike stock which has four m6, 10mm hex head bolts. Still it is rad! All she needs is ditch lights! She’s done an amazing job DIY and channel content great
Use this in between plastics HushMat HSM30300 1"" x 20' Quiet Tape Shop Roll, Regular, vehicles like Volvo and Mercedes Benz use this for sound reduction in between plastic. And you can reused it.
If you reach out to the manufacturer, they might have firmware updates. I use a grom audio Vline2 and every 2 weeks or so there are firmware updates over WiFi. The hold down button to pause music feature sounds like it would be just a firmware addition.
I might try some rubber, plastic, or metal washers behind the screws on tat plastic plate, that might allow you some more tightening without damaging the plastic.
You should be proud; you did a great job. There's always fitment issues but you might find resolution on installer channels like Fivestar. I'm inspired to change out my Ram infotainment only because there are so many nobs it would delete like climate control which confuses me so much while driving. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to your next video. Lots of love 💘 ❤️ from Miami!
Looks great. I’ve owned a similar stinger head unit (the Elev8) for a couple of years now. Once in a great while my phone will also say the device is not supported, but I never even thought about resetting the head unit. What I do is just unlock my iPhone, and it works. I can’t remember if one time maybe I had to unlock my phone unplug it then plug it back in? Oh and the long term reliability has been great. Like you, I also really wish that it had wireless Apple CarPlay.
Do what Toyota and Lexus does... Toyota uses felt with an adhesive back to stop squeaking between panels. That's the solution that avoids the desire to continually tighten the screws. If they are barely getting through, blue thread locker can be tried. But the formula doesn't work with all plastics. From a former La Jollan (yay Carlsbad!)...
Welcome to the world of aftermarket. We sell and install so many of these. Mainly for Jeeps for the integration and the off road readings. You want to stop the "rattle" then use foam tape when mating the two pieces together. MOST IMPORTANT...there are updates for many things. Best to do an update before posting a shitty video. We update every Stinger once its powered up so it is on the latest stabile firmware. Just some food for thought.
Go to the mute settings and you can change it to paused the music when backing up. I have a pioneer wt8600 and my dash cluster stayed the same besides the compass
Looking around at these, I think if I am going to spend that kind of money on a head unit upgrade, I may just get the Entune 3.0 for a little more money I would basically get the android auto and other features while keeping existing one. Only downside is the screen size would remain the same. Good video and follow.
I have the 2020 with carplay and hated how it had to be wired. There is a wireless adapter available. I even went as far as getting a right angle USB adapter, plugging the wireless transmitter into that and then velcroed it to the top cubby area in front of the shifter. Now I have wireless carplay. It works quite well. If you bump the adapter, it will have to restart the head unit it is finicky in that way. Otherwise it works around 95% of the time, pretty well and a reset fixes it right away. Just installed the 3TPAM and now I can charge my phone with a short cable and use a magnet mount and wireless carplay.
I sent mine back because of the bracket and yes, it squeaked and the radio bezel would not always fully 'snap' into place on the left side. Also, decided to send it back because it didn't retain the satellite radio and gps. Overall it is a very nice unit, but disgustingly expensive that would still need more money spent for XM radio and gps. It may just be me, being stupid and not knowing my shit, but audio/video installations are not in my scope of knowledge. And if you have a 3rd Gen with the 3TPAM, it will fit. it's just another annoyance to deal with when removing or reinstalling everything.
The lack of complete integration with factory steeringwheel controls and such is one of the reasons i am usually very hesitant to switch to aftermarket headunits. Once the bluetooth connection is bug free and reliable, I will live with the factory head unit. Id prefer to go with a more basic pioneer or alpine unit that boots up in under 3 seconds and has basic bluetooth than android auto/carplay.
As I just got a Tacoma and looking at upgrades just a note usually these head units gives you the option to map the buttons. Of course I don't have thus unit so someone would have to confirm but I've had two other aftermarket units and it was the same.
the screen is nice and big but the rattling would become an issue especially after doing some off roading, and losing the play/pause button on the steering wheel would be a pain. I installed a Pioneer head unit in my taco about a year ago and it has wireless carplay which is convenient, and the software seems pretty stable no big issues, also came with a remote that I have hardly ever used.
7:10 This gave me horrifying flashbacks to driving with my first gen iPhone where the play/pause toggle had like a noticeable lag, so you'd wind up spamming the button and then whether it would pause or not became a matter of "Did you press the button an odd or even number of times?"
Just found this video and channel and only clicked cuz I’m planning to get one of those for a Honda Accord. Just wanted to say you did an awesome job with the video explaining everything in detail and I feel like you gave us a lot of insight and things to keep in mind. Keep up the good work!
Before I made my selection, I looked at this Stinger radio, but because of the lack of wireless CarPlay I went with the Kenwood 10” unit. The other deciding factor was that the Kenwood unit takes the Idata maestro brain which keeps more of the oem features of the vehicle. But I really liked the mounting bracket this Stinger radio offers. Maybe using lock washers may help, I know is all plastic but you never know. Great video.
I did a huge powerful sound system in my Tacoma sport access cab I have 2 amps a alpine 4 channel and a Zeus mono sub amp with a huge 10inch American Bass sub The first thing I did was upgrade the electric system 2 100ah Agm battery’s one behind my drivers seat with the jump seats removed and the alpine amp under the seat and the big 00gauge wires with everything fused and 2000w inverter speakers I used prv mids in the 4 doors with 75watts rms and there very loud too loud And I hollowed out the front dash speakers and used old school Mb quart tweeters with crossover to the front doors and tweeters I should get a separate amp for the door speakers as there very underpowered this project took me part of the Covid lock down and still sounds great and I used all dead matt The factory radio is fine but the gps sucks from factory but I use mostly cds still or the Bluetooth and works fine I’m going to probably put in a old alpine CD player from the 1990s since they made the best and add a eq underneath I’m not a fan of apple play and big screens I have a iPhone for directions if really need it
I would never think about putting an aftermarket radio in a modern vehicle. Now I have upgraded a stock radio to a better stock radio in a modern vehicle.
Those over sized head units for the Toyotas need extra custom mounting fab to be solid...Stinger gets a really lot of money compared to same head units from off brand China direct ....and seem to have quirky issues...after 35 years in car audio it's worth the extra money to buy name brand head unit and more importantly name brand interface to vehicle ...they work so much better and are always updating software for better performance ....don't get me wrong Singer is not bad.....there is just better ways to do upgrade
You can change that plastic plate and get one that is aluminum with rubber backing to help and the noise and there’s one other way if you have access to a 3-D printer you can probably make yourself a new back plate 3-D printing it so you can customize it better than the original plastic one and have it upgraded so you’re able to tighten everything down Just a suggestion something I learned from yes this is her name to sexy cyborg but she knows what she’s talking about she’s a hell of an engineer I think that might get her name wrong but it’s Naomi Watts I might got her name wrong she’s known as the sexy cyborg thank you very much you have a good day😎
Nice video. I just got de most basic Tacoma and it came with the small head unit but it has wired CarPlay and something that I like better over the android stereos that I got in the past, is sound quality even though my truck has cheap factory speakers they sound great
I love the humility to be able to admit the shortcomings of the purchase. A lot of people refuse to admit the negatives, especially when they spent so much money on a thing. This video was great, you’re great, and this whole damn channel is great.
Everytime I drive my tacoma I think about its short comings. Then I hit the perfect road with smooth sailing and forget 🤙
I do love that you go back and revisit your previous mods and installs so often to give followup observations... so many youtubers out there promise to do so, and never get around to it. Thank you and keep up the great content.
Loctite, as others have mentioned, is a good recommendation but I suggest using rubber washers in conjunction to mitigate the loose tolerances and rattle. You can squish them as tight as you need to and the Loctite will hold it in place.
The main thing to check, is Loctite compatible with the two plastics?
@@graybeard2113 use Blue loctite
Don’t wiggle it? 😅
@@graybeard2113 no, loctite is not compatible with plastic. Wrapping the screws with Teflon tape would likely help with preventing them loosening
Double face tape might help
@Chloe Kuo
Excellent video. But I would wait for the 2nd Gen Stinger Heig10 units. (Custom Car Audio installer here).
I much prefer the *Kenwood eXcelon Reference DNX-series* 10.1" floating screen head units.
The screen quality is better and these have a Volume Knob as well and better Sound Quality than the Stinger if you aren't using its Toslink Digital Output.
The Kenwood combined with an *iDataLink Maestro RR* OEM integration module will retain the OEM features as well as give you custom programmable Steering Wheel Control buttons, and each button can have a Dual Function by using a single press or "long press". For instance, both my Volume Up & Volume Down will also MUTE the audio with a Long-Press of those buttons.
You also might want to look at the newly released Alpine *HALO iLX-F509* or *iLX-F511* 9" or 11" screen respectively, combined with an iDataLink Maestro RR module to keep the OEM features and add custom programmable dual-function steering wheel control buttons. It doesnt have the built-in Volume Knob. HOWEVER, you can add the optional *Alpine RUX-H02* Remote Volume Knob which can attach to either side of the screen, or it can be mounted ANYWHERE in the vehicle as it is wireless.
To eliminate the noise from the stereo dash kit plastic parts rubbing or rattling against each other, use strips of automotive *Tesa Tape* interior fuzzy fabric tape between all of the plastic and/or metal parts. "Tesa Tape" is used by the OEMs and is typically used to wrap the wiring harness wire bundles together, but it works well to eliminate squeaks and rattles between mating interior trim panels or mounting tabs and clips, etc. The Tesa Tape is extremely thin and compressible. Rubber "Fender Washers" might work well but might be too thick for some applications. You can simply build up multiple layers of the Tesa Tape if you need it to be thicker to fill larger gaps, etc.
I WOULD NOT use LOCTITE. You want to be able to remove the stereo dash mounting kit for maintenance, and LOCTITE will typically damage the plastic threads during screw removal making the parts unusable. Even when using the LOCTITE specifically made for plastic.
Replacing the tweeters was the best upgrade. Huge difference! Then replaced all the door speakers with kickers, helped a lot but almost no bass. I added a cheap Rockwell powered sub, it’s amazing! Totally kills the Bose in my Infiniti . I don’t think you need to replace the whole unit….but that’s kinda what you get paid for right.
I've got a 2019 TRD Sport with a 6-speed manual. In addition I have the Heigh10 and love it. I do notice the same rattling when off-road. I'll be looking at foam strips and maybe rubber washers to put in soon. When installing the headunit, I also rerouted my usb that sends data to the unit to my center console. Game changer for a clean setup and not having to battle the usb cord when shifting. It would've been super convenient to have wireless carplay and just plop the phone on the wireless charger. Love the channel!
Bluetooth’s effective range is ~ 30 feet. Loctite 425 on the plastic for the rattle. Well done.
You can also stop rattles with adding some thin foam strips where the plastics meet up. Most people who install sound systems know about this trick
should check out the kit from trail grid pro, uses a Sony head unit instead of generic and has wireless carplay. All the wires are also plugged in already so just need to do vehicle side connections.
For the squeky/rattling problem. If you have to take it apart again, put little squares of electical tape between the screw holes and then screw through them, use the electrical tape like washers. Also you can put electrical other places to fill voids to keep it from rattling.
Its easier to add more then it is to remove some.
Chloe that a pretty good review I just got the HEIGH10 for my tundra. I agree with all the negatives you listed. I had previously had upgraded speakers and amplifier with a subwoofer added so upgrading to this headunit made the sound so much better.
I have a smaller Pioneer aftermarket head unit, and it has wireless Apple CarPlay. I love that! It’s nice to not have to plug in if I’m just running some errands and popping in and out.
Nice upgrade! I just replaced my 09 Taco DCLB old (2010 year Pioneer DEH-P6200BT Sat, Blth) with a cheap Walmart (Power Acoustik) plug-n-play apple car play & andriod auto car stereo 6" screen clearance $65.00! We bought two! The straight digital sounds are amazing with Rockford Prime D class 4 100x 4 ohms powering. (Front) Polk audio db6501 6.5" max 300w rms 100 impedance 4 ohms,(Rear) Polk db651 6.5" max 180 rms 60 impedance 4 ohms. (Sub Amp Kicker) 11dx500 mono amp wired at 2 ohm to produce full 500 watts rms,(2) 10" Kicker subwoofers 4 ohms 150 rms to a ported sub box. Once you do the complete sound upgrade you will never want less!
Your awesome Chloe keep up the good work on the reviews. I installed the stinger in my 2019 Tacoma and I’m loving it. I look forward to more of your videos.
Great video. If I'm spending that much on a new head unit I'd want to know all the negatives as well. I can't wait for my Tacoma this week.
I put the Sony xav9500es in my Tacoma and it is amazing , boots up lightning fast , wireless CarPlay works flawlessly, no rattling , screen is amazing . It’s expensive but worth every penny in my opinion
@joshkaestner33 how have you been liking that unit any complaints? Also did you loose the factory navigation ?
@@jorgeortiz7612 I love the until , it has worked flawlessly . I never used the factory navigation but you do loose it . They installed the idatalink maestro so I still have my steering wheel controls as well as lots of vehicle information / gauges on the new head unit . I just use the wireless Apple CarPlay for google maps etc. you can also use android auto if you have an android . It’s a great unit and I haven’t had any problems with it
For those of you interested, the Sony XAV 9500ES has wireless apple and android car play. Some downsides as well, if it’s definitely an option to consider.
to prevent rattling related to plastic on plastic use felt tape, black color in this case. Toyota uses it too for same application.
I have a sub $400 android unit in for over a year and not only is it as badass as having a tablet it looks OEM. I have no complaints. Wireless carplay works flawless
Shout out for rocking the Top Gun Maverick soundtrack! One of my favorites while off-roading this summer. 🙂
i was thinking about upgrading my screen, after this i'm definitely sure i don't want to. i just got a 2021 trd sport about a week ago and i'm coming from an 07 tacoma trd sport, i can't stand having to look at the screen for backing up, i also don't like having to use a screen for pretty much anything, i stick to my mirrors. i like that i can control my music from the steering wheel and my android auto just connects immediately when i turn my vehicle on. the only plus for me when it comes to a screen is the gps is much larger than on my phone, otherwise i could do without it. great video though, been enjoying your content recently. i've been trying to get as much info about 3rd gen tacomas as i can now that i have one
Nice vids, and many good points 👍. For me, Cloth Tessa Tape, and 3M double stick foam tape have been my go-to for chasing down/ eliminating interior rattles and squeaks, etc.
As some have mentioned instead of using Loctite, use rtv silicone as it is designed to be used with rubber gaskets. The idea for rubber washers is a good idea also.
You can also put some if the rtv silicone in between the factory panel and the mount which will also help hold everything in place.
You can get this for a lot less on Crutchfield, if anyone is interested ($1390). If you want built in GPS, you will need the Stinger SE-P14 ($180). Great reviews! Keep up the good work!
I like that u spent some time using it then reviewing it
This was a very comprehensive review and you pointed out things that others did not. This made a difference as I was just going to purchase it but I am not as convinced. Not for the price point. Maybe I just dont know enough about different systems but this seems like some pretty accurate criticisms that could easily be addressed. The positives were very good, I just dont know that the negatives were overshadowed by the positives. At least it gave a better view of what you are getting. Nice work.
Cars sure have came a long way in 100 years. It's hard to believe people used a horse to pull a wagon down a dirt road and no air conditioning and it took a long time to get where you are going. Now look at where we are. Pretty amazing
Just got a 10 Sequoia waiting to get the heigh10 installed from previous vehicle but I love everything bout it can't go wrong with it worth every penny
locktite and rubber stripping will solve this issue big time. load time is pretty slow but nothing to take away from the rest of the unit.
I was thinking the same thing. You can always purchase a replacement head unit mount if you decide to go with something else down the road.
As stated located (blue) some type of washer to distribute the force. Maybe add a thin rubber or even weather strip around where it mates up to factory dash to absorb the road, or off road, shock. But great video thank you.
I bought my first Toyota truck in 1987 before they were branded Tacoma. I recently purchased a 2021 with wired CarPlay, I plan on replacing the dash speakers with tweeters, dynamat for the doors and a small amp and subwoofer. Replacing the head unit will not improve the audio quality a noticeable amount.
You can program your steering wheel to pause your music. Most likely you have a pac piece interface behind your radio so fairly easy.
Rattling issue can be address by using felt tape along the contact edges of the added holder and factory bezel.
I just installed mine yesterday on a 2020 Trd. Highly satisfied
Loctite is the key for those loose screws. Just make sure you use blue 242 loctite; because you will still be able to unscrew them if need. BTW, since I already have the Heigh10 I decided to buy my aftermarket kit and is on the way. Saved me some coin without being stuck with having an additional Heigh10 laying around.
Thanks for the review, I installed one after your previous install video and I am very happy with the unit, no squeaks!
Do you regret losing a place for your cell phone holder? I noticed you had the phone upside down in the cup holder.
I had your previous cell phone holder and had to remove it to make room for the stinger so I brought the angled version of the mount and the drop in cell phone holder that has the connected power cable from pro clips. It works for me! It is on the right side of the stinger. It has the potential to slide off but I find that there is just enough grip from the mount that it holds in place all the time.
Keep up the good work! I think every one of my mods has been inspired by you👍
Have you considered using loctite on the screws for the back? I’m not sure what those screws are plated in but there will need to be either copper or iron present for the loctite to cure. So worse case you’ll need a primer for the loctite and then you should be good!
My thoughts also. I would also place a small washer under the head of the screw to help eliminate the risk of the plastic breaking.
Also add soft ferrules over the screws for additional sound dampening?
@@0cujo0 or felt washers.
I think there is a Loc-title formulation for plastics. RCers used it.
Loctite 425 for plastic
I've had mine for at least a year now and have zero regrets with it. Coming from what was in my JBL system in my 2017 this is light years better. Sure i miss the compass but how often I used it I just dont care, plus I have one built into the top showing the direction in my mirror still that works fine I use much more. Its expensive is the only issue I ever had and still have. Also the lack of features in the Tacoma version over the software they have on the Jeep versions is way more limited. I wish we got all the amazing stuff they put in the Jeep model.
Did you replace your factory speakers per chance? I did with JBL and the performance / sound while cleaner, is not as loud. If so, does the head unit power them well? thanks.
why not use a bit of blue locktight on the screws behind the plastic plate and use some small thin rubber washer fittings to avoid the stripping, dampen the movement sound and lock the components well :)
I really think you should ditch the stinger and go with a traditional aftermarket head unit like one of the Kenwoods. They have large screen options with volume knobs as well. The result will be better than the compromises Stinger sticks you with. A Maestro RR can be used to integrate the ratio to the vehicle and will retain all those vehicle settings options like the factory radio had. The maestro also runs the steering wheel controls which are fully programmable as a bonus (I flipped volume vs seek/skip, I added a play/pause toggle control and a screen off control). So your issue #5 is fixed with the way I set the Maestro up :) ALSO - on my 2021 the compass and now playing section on the cluster did NOT work. Once I added my radio and Maestro, the now playing section started working and I can control the music with the right side steering wheel controls. My compass still does not work and never did.
Overall I think Stinger is capitalizing on the “all plug and play bolt on” aspect and using that as a reason to deliver a less than superior product and they certainly aren’t cutting anyone any breaks on pricing for that. Just a thought, but I bet you’d be happier with something else. You’re smart enough to wire it up (it’s not that much work) and any help can be found on the forum.
Lastly, I wouldn’t wish for wireless CarPlay too much. My kenwood has it and it is not great. It drains the phone battery like crazy and it glitchy despite using Wi-Fi to make the connection. With the rate it drains phone battery, the phone needs to be plugged in. If it has to be plugged in, then you may as well not even have wireless to begin with and just use the more reliable wired connection.
So true with the wireless carplay and android auto. I have a Kenwood DDX9906XR in my 2014 Corolla and the wireless goes out all the time. But it does have the plugin option to still get the android auto. I have the Stinger system in my 2016 Tacoma like Chloe does and it is just a OK system the price should be much cheaper than it is the resolution isn't as good as my Kenwood in my Corolla but it does the job. It's much better than the JBL OEM system that came in the truck. Only downside you loose some vehicle functions like door lock control beep control and compass which all 3 I never used anyway and as Chloe said it boots up slow but the good points is you gain Apple Car Play and Android Auto the wired Car Play And Android Auto works great and the sound is much better and louder than the OEM system. And it looks great in the truck which is why I got it
So basically, this stinger would be really good with a maestro rr
@@stetsongray5355 maybe but I don’t know that those two work with each other. I doubt it, I bet the brain being used to run the steering wheel controls and such (the job the maestro does) is probably a proprietary stinger product. That said even if it was compatible with the maestro, I’d still rather a large screen kenwood than the stinger myself. But maybe that’s just me.
From past experience and the factory head unit in my 2020 Tacoma, I’m just convinced all of them are overpriced junk. No matter how much I’ve spent, or the brand name. They have all been terrible!
Oh, and be ready for that “device not supported crap” because it only gets worse! Eventually it won’t work at all! 😑
Tablets are cheaper, and they do far more. So it just doesn’t make sense to me why no company can get it right, at a reasonable price.
What type of tablet would you advice
@@bonaanayaga any tablet, even the cheapest ones would be far more worth the money than these outdated garbage head units. The fact they STILL SAY device not supported after all these years shows, they still use the same things they have for the past 8 or so years.
It’s the same crap with different names on them.
I wish a company would step up already and make something worth the money because they should all be far better than this by now.
Jensen Car 910W floating unit is what I have in my 3rd gen and its great! Also did kickers in all doors, tweeters and added an infinity 8 inch sub amp combo. Killer sound!
Hey Chloe, love your channel! Have you considered using Loctite on the screws, to keep them from backing off? Keep the awesome and informative videos coming!
Was going to say the same thing
Do not put loctite on screws that screw into plastic! It will soften the plastic and it will fall apart. That was ABS plastic which I assume is used here also. I made that mistake a long time ago.
@@ChrisRash thanks for the heads up, I did not know this
As for the features I like... I love the screen size. I LOVE the multi camera function (though I wish it had a split screen mode, and none of the reviewers I have seen have shown one that I recall) (I am not sure those two features justify $1500+ replacement head unit that results in malfunction or loss of function of other factory features, especially for someone on a budget that still needs things like a winch bumper and better skid plates)
Prior to the release of this head unit, I was seriously considering a rearview anytime camera mod with an aftermarket "Birds Eye Camera System" wired into the "front camera" mode, and using a separate rearview camera system designed for RVs as my primary review system (as my bed cap does block a large portion of my rear vision). I had initially seen this head unit as an alternative (with a couple video switches to allow me to switch rearview camera between one or two truck mounted switches, and a future wireless receiver for a trailer camera, and possibly an regular forward camera, and an alternate forward thermal camera (I found some camera sensors, and was looking into the electronics to make my own for FAR less than commercially available units) allowing me to see those deer (or pedestrians) on the side of the road at night)
To be honest, I have been content with my audio options. I use android, and with the exception of a gremlin or two, my bluetooth audio has worked fine, my sat radio works fine except when I am deep in the hills and valleys... my only complaint is I can not use voice to text while using bluetooth (something I tried for the first time in the two years I have been driving my 2018 TRD Off Road only yesterday when an old friend and I where driving home to separate locations after getting together 200 miles from home.) My friend had his wife with him so one could text while the other drove. I was solo, so I had to use text to voice to receive messages, but had to rely on the default messages on the radio screen to reply or to call him back. (You CAN IN THEORY use voice command for those pre packaged replies, but mine could not recognize my answers for some reason)
I was thinking in the install video, that thin high density foam strips would have helped to minimize any plastic creaking. Toyota does this a lot where different plastics meet especially in dash components.
You can also use either Loctite on the screws or white Teflon tape on the screw treads (2 wraps).
If you install weather stripping in between the Height 10 mount and the factory surface it’ll eliminate the rattling and excess shaking and also maintain the tightness of the screws
you could contact with the seller about this problem,or you maybe need to set the steer wheel control,then you could control the head unit on your steer wheel.have a try.
Considering you can get a new 2020+ Apple Carplay and Andriod Auto compatible unit for around $1500, and used from a wreck around 1K it sounds like an OEM upgrade is still the way to go.
Car play is still wired?
How can a company put out a stereo in this day and age with a wired only car play? Bluetooth chips are so cheap. Can you put a couple strips of electrical tape on the stereo mounts to soften the squeaking? It’s the cheap thin plastic they used to mount the stereo. Electric tape or gaffers tape.
Always great videos
Stay happy healthy and fluid
Painting a thin coat of polyurethane inside the plastic shell will make it a lot stronger. I rebuilt a engine mount using polyurethane and came out great.
Just yesterday I was looking at this and really liked it until I started reading the comments. The one comment that changed my mind is that it was not Sirius XM compatible without buying more equipment and some complained about the picture quality of the screen. Those were deal breakers. Especially for that much money.
Carlinkit fixes the wireless issue. Plug it directly into the rear of the unit and you’ll have wireless CarPlay everytime you hop into the truck!!
Their website seems a little dropshippy and sketch lol
For the rattles, how about gluing thin felt between where plastic meets plastic, and using internal tooth lock washers on the bolts. Cut some felt "gaskets" to size and spray them lightly on one side with some 3M contact cement, then apply.
Also, you can get wireless car play adapters. I use a Motorola MA1 for Android Auto on my 2020 TRD Pro.
Also, 2020 TRD Pro cameras are only available until you reach a couple miles per hour. Then it switches back to Toyota DIS/Entune (because having cams while driving would be scary🙄).
Great Vid! I have same tacoma unit... A problem I have is the cable that attaches the screen to the head unit, rattles loose and it disconnects the phone connection. I have to push it in from time to time. Going to tape or glue it soon so bumps don't disconnect the phone connection. But overall its a great unit. Sounds much better than my stock unit!
Just put some thin foam weather stripping tape around the edges of the mount that touch the dash and make noise. That should be a nice clean solution
I absolutely love my KENWOOD DMX1057xr floating 10”
Good review!
The boot up time is due to CarPlay, I have a wireless dongle hooked up for mine so I can comfortably text and drive.
But damn, they lost me at that mount. Kinda bulgy and should’ve atleast put a bumper in between the plastic. All I can imagine is 2 styrofoam to-go boxes just rubbing all up on themselves on the drive home.
I feel like if they spent another 2 days engineering it and charged another $100-$200 they could’ve just done the entire piece minus the air vents or something.
i am happy with my myltimedia wireless carplay or android auto, easy to install, hassle-free, cheap ,one usb connection can play netflix , amazon video or youtube or music or movie from flash drive. for any time camera i had to install front camera which i really like, toggle switch plays front or back camera while driving useful for off roading
I custom made a padding with foam to place between the plastic and that took care of the lose noise. Try that out.
For the 2nd use strong thick double sided tape.
It’s only held on by friction unlike stock which has four m6, 10mm hex head bolts. Still it is rad! All she needs is ditch lights! She’s done an amazing job DIY and channel content great
Use this in between plastics HushMat HSM30300 1"" x 20' Quiet Tape Shop Roll, Regular, vehicles like Volvo and Mercedes Benz use this for sound reduction in between plastic. And you can reused it.
If you reach out to the manufacturer, they might have firmware updates. I use a grom audio Vline2 and every 2 weeks or so there are firmware updates over WiFi. The hold down button to pause music feature sounds like it would be just a firmware addition.
Felt tape is often used for quieting noisy interior panel friction points
Soundeading material cut it to plastic insert size put under retighten screws
I might try some rubber, plastic, or metal washers behind the screws on tat plastic plate, that might allow you some more tightening without damaging the plastic.
You should be proud; you did a great job. There's always fitment issues but you might find resolution on installer channels like Fivestar. I'm inspired to change out my Ram infotainment only because there are so many nobs it would delete like climate control which confuses me so much while driving. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to your next video. Lots of love 💘 ❤️ from Miami!
Looks great. I’ve owned a similar stinger head unit (the Elev8) for a couple of years now. Once in a great while my phone will also say the device is not supported, but I never even thought about resetting the head unit. What I do is just unlock my iPhone, and it works. I can’t remember if one time maybe I had to unlock my phone unplug it then plug it back in? Oh and the long term reliability has been great. Like you, I also really wish that it had wireless Apple CarPlay.
Electrical tape between the factory plactics and the aftermarket plastic can be very useful.
Do what Toyota and Lexus does...
Toyota uses felt with an adhesive back to stop squeaking between panels. That's the solution that avoids the desire to continually tighten the screws.
If they are barely getting through, blue thread locker can be tried. But the formula doesn't work with all plastics.
From a former La Jollan (yay Carlsbad!)...
The one way to stop the rattling is thy putting in foam spacers to reduce the noise.
Welcome to the world of aftermarket. We sell and install so many of these. Mainly for Jeeps for the integration and the off road readings. You want to stop the "rattle" then use foam tape when mating the two pieces together. MOST IMPORTANT...there are updates for many things. Best to do an update before posting a shitty video. We update every Stinger once its powered up so it is on the latest stabile firmware. Just some food for thought.
Double side tape stick both side and will work well
Put a small piece of Tesa Tape over each of the red clips before you snap it back together and it will fit a lot more snug and rattle less.
Go to the mute settings and you can change it to paused the music when backing up. I have a pioneer wt8600 and my dash cluster stayed the same besides the compass
Looking around at these, I think if I am going to spend that kind of money on a head unit upgrade, I may just get the Entune 3.0 for a little more money I would basically get the android auto and other features while keeping existing one. Only downside is the screen size would remain the same. Good video and follow.
I have the 2020 with carplay and hated how it had to be wired. There is a wireless adapter available. I even went as far as getting a right angle USB adapter, plugging the wireless transmitter into that and then velcroed it to the top cubby area in front of the shifter. Now I have wireless carplay. It works quite well. If you bump the adapter, it will have to restart the head unit it is finicky in that way. Otherwise it works around 95% of the time, pretty well and a reset fixes it right away.
Just installed the 3TPAM and now I can charge my phone with a short cable and use a magnet mount and wireless carplay.
I sent mine back because of the bracket and yes, it squeaked and the radio bezel would not always fully 'snap' into place on the left side. Also, decided to send it back because it didn't retain the satellite radio and gps. Overall it is a very nice unit, but disgustingly expensive that would still need more money spent for XM radio and gps. It may just be me, being stupid and not knowing my shit, but audio/video installations are not in my scope of knowledge. And if you have a 3rd Gen with the 3TPAM, it will fit. it's just another annoyance to deal with when removing or reinstalling everything.
The lack of complete integration with factory steeringwheel controls and such is one of the reasons i am usually very hesitant to switch to aftermarket headunits.
Once the bluetooth connection is bug free and reliable, I will live with the factory head unit.
Id prefer to go with a more basic pioneer or alpine unit that boots up in under 3 seconds and has basic bluetooth than android auto/carplay.
I did the same in my Nissan frontier 2004 and it was a pain but it was so worth it
As I just got a Tacoma and looking at upgrades just a note usually these head units gives you the option to map the buttons. Of course I don't have thus unit so someone would have to confirm but I've had two other aftermarket units and it was the same.
Use some double side tape around the unit it will do trick rubber and absorb all impact double side tap
Use weather stripping between the radio and the mount
the screen is nice and big but the rattling would become an issue especially after doing some off roading, and losing the play/pause button on the steering wheel would be a pain. I installed a Pioneer head unit in my taco about a year ago and it has wireless carplay which is convenient, and the software seems pretty stable no big issues, also came with a remote that I have hardly ever used.
7:10 This gave me horrifying flashbacks to driving with my first gen iPhone where the play/pause toggle had like a noticeable lag, so you'd wind up spamming the button and then whether it would pause or not became a matter of "Did you press the button an odd or even number of times?"
Just found this video and channel and only clicked cuz I’m planning to get one of those for a Honda Accord.
Just wanted to say you did an awesome job with the video explaining everything in detail and I feel like you gave us a lot of insight and things to keep in mind.
Keep up the good work!
Before I made my selection, I looked at this Stinger radio, but because of the lack of wireless CarPlay I went with the Kenwood 10” unit. The other deciding factor was that the Kenwood unit takes the Idata maestro brain which keeps more of the oem features of the vehicle. But I really liked the mounting bracket this Stinger radio offers. Maybe using lock washers may help, I know is all plastic but you never know. Great video.
@sanjuanpr25 what year is your truck that you installed your unit? And did you loose your navigation ?
Could've put a piece of thin foam for silencing and to remove that gapage
Some plumbers tape or some gasket maker would be perfect for keeping the screws in without messing up the plastic!
I had this video on my tv and my home pod recognized you saying hey Siri with a very delayed reaction 😂
I did a huge powerful sound system in my Tacoma sport access cab
I have 2 amps a alpine 4 channel and a Zeus mono sub amp with a huge 10inch American Bass sub
The first thing I did was upgrade the electric system 2 100ah Agm battery’s one behind my drivers seat with the jump seats removed and the alpine amp under the seat and the big 00gauge wires with everything fused and 2000w inverter speakers I used prv mids in the 4 doors with 75watts rms and there very loud too loud
And I hollowed out the front dash speakers and used old school Mb quart tweeters with crossover to the front doors and tweeters I should get a separate amp for the door speakers as there very underpowered this project took me part of the Covid lock down and still sounds great and I used all dead matt
The factory radio is fine but the gps sucks from factory but I use mostly cds still or the Bluetooth and works fine
I’m going to probably put in a old alpine CD player from the 1990s since they made the best and add a eq underneath I’m not a fan of apple play and big screens I have a iPhone for directions if really need it
If this is going to be a forever mod I suggest using medium strength thread lock to avoid retightening all the screws
Hey Chloe, you need off road Toyota, and keep this Toyota everyday driving.
Your fun to watch, keep going 👍
All the suggestions for the head unit noise shouldn’t be necessary: it should be squared away from the outset for the price. Thanks for the great vid.
I would never think about putting an aftermarket radio in a modern vehicle. Now I have upgraded a stock radio to a better stock radio in a modern vehicle.
Those over sized head units for the Toyotas need extra custom mounting fab to be solid...Stinger gets a really lot of money compared to same head units from off brand China direct ....and seem to have quirky issues...after 35 years in car audio it's worth the extra money to buy name brand head unit and more importantly name brand interface to vehicle ...they work so much better and are always updating software for better performance ....don't get me wrong Singer is not bad.....there is just better ways to do upgrade
You can change that plastic plate and get one that is aluminum with rubber backing to help and the noise and there’s one other way if you have access to a 3-D printer you can probably make yourself a new back plate 3-D printing it so you can customize it better than the original plastic one and have it upgraded so you’re able to tighten everything down Just a suggestion something I learned from yes this is her name to sexy cyborg but she knows what she’s talking about she’s a hell of an engineer I think that might get her name wrong but it’s Naomi Watts I might got her name wrong she’s known as the sexy cyborg thank you very much you have a good day😎
Chloe…maybe you can get a head unit bezel made out of aluminum and paint it. That way you can secure screws more tightly. With a little loctite
Nice video. I just got de most basic Tacoma and it came with the small head unit but it has wired CarPlay and something that I like better over the android stereos that I got in the past, is sound quality even though my truck has cheap factory speakers they sound great
Boot time is the reason that I ditched my old Android HU. The new one starts almost instant.