Nice video thanks! Just one thing for anyone looking to change gearbox or diff oil (goes without saying but we all start somewhere!) Make sure you can open and remove your FILLER plug before dropping your oils :D Nothing worse than dropping oil then realising you have no way to fill it back up again as you can't get the filler plug out or something similar (not speaking from experience thankfully haha)
I had the same TPMS issue with my TDV8 and I was not bothered but like you annoyed. So I bought a Gap IID tool and used it to disable the TPMS system by writing over the CCF. It worked a treat and no more TPMS lights or warnings!
Forgot to mention as I’m sure you know you don’t get all the fluid out by removing the pan . There’s still a lot in the oil cooler, pipes etc so in effect you are mixing clean fluid with some dirty stuff. I read it takes about three changes to get all the contaminated oil out but who knows where people come up with stats like that. One tip which I’m sure you also know is make sure the filler plug can come out before you drain diffs, transfer case etc. I fell foul of that. Drained all the oil and for the life of me couldn’t get the filler out. Lucky for me a neighbour has a compressor and impact gun and he was able to help otherwise I would have had to be towed or transported to our local garage.
As it happens I actually did 3 changes like this (in the hope it would be somewhere near a flush). I also remove diff/transaxle filler plugs first too - always good practice. You’ll see that in the diff & transfer case video 👍
There are many ways to drain the rest of the fluid. If it is not your daily driver the easiest if to drain the sump. Refit the plug loosen the oil cooler pipe at the front to let air in. And leave like this for a week. Then redrain. You may get another 2 l out.
I know this is 2 years old but you said it passed its mot! I’m sure I saw threads on that passenger rear tyre! I’d be worried about them before the oil 🤦♂️
Previous owners mate probably did the mot for him, those discs would be an advisory at least if they aren’t already on mot history, as for the tpms, I’m sure they’re a fail 🤔
You can leave the crossmembers in situ, but you need a Torx bit in a ratchet spanner. That just about fits. Then you need a hacksaw blade to cut the neck of the old filter, then turn it sideways. The nee one has a separate filter which makes it easier
I'm interested to see how this works out, if I can run one for £3600 a year in repairs (what my current car payments are) I think I'll get one. The fuel is neither here nor there tbh it's just heavy repair costs and plenty of faults that puts me off
Filters can get silted up. The “lifetime” seal on the gearbox is no more than 120,000 miles. If you’re dropping the fluid out, you might as well change the filters, as it’s better to be safe. You’re spending £100+ on fluids alone, so why contaminate them…?
One other thing I’m looking at getting a Range Rover sometime this year but I’m undecided between a 2.7 sport and a 3.0ltr but no higher than a 3.0 have you any tips as to what one to go for cheers in advance
ian youd Hi Ian, to be honest... no. But I think it’d already been done after looking at the old pan/filter. I think if you’re over 100k and it hasn’t been done then it’s a really good idea. I only put the Dr Tranny stuff in after reading internet comments & just because why not 🤔 All the best 👍
@@Nut_Job. many thanks only just come across your you tube videos regarding your new range rover watching them all now very interesting many thanks for your reply, ian
Hello just saw this video you done a while back I didn’t catch that stuff you said you added in with the oil can you tell me please what was it called again cheers in advance for telling me
In that video I think I added a couple of tubes of a product called “Dr Tranny”... it sounds funny, but you’ll find it straight away with Google. It’s a friction modifier which helps if you have an older automatic transmission. New ATF in an older/worn transmission can actually lead to more slipping in the clutch packs because all the old clutch material has been flushed away. This can (not always) help with that.
Probably because the 3.6L V8 is by far a better engine. Had the V6 for a couple of years then bought a V8. Smoother, quieter, faster and approx the same mpg.
It didn’t make a big difference in my case. But the Dr Tranny stuff (or whatever it’s called) is supposed to help a bit by modifying the fluid viscosity.
The issue here with the zf boxes are. You didnt use zf fluid. Didnt follow the correct procedure ie the temp its done at. Didnt change the mechatronic sleeve , bolts of the sump/filter must torque to the correct spec in the correct order as the sump is plastic and can flex easily of tightened incorrectly and the adaptions should be reset after the service. Most of these super flushes and self services are done incorrectly. Theres only one guy in the uk id trust with a zf box and will always travel the 300 mile round trip to get it done properly.
Ashley Atkins Fair enough, but actually I did do a lot of those things. I did use non OEM fluid... but I did check & final fill @ 35-40deg with engine running. I did torque the bolts correctly I also torqued them in the correct order - something proper drummers will be familiar with too 🤔 The sleeve wasn’t leaking so I left it alone (I’m sure against procedure) Again, this is just me... doing my thing - not instructing anyone what to do. Just making a video log of my fun journey. If you’re prepared to get stuck in & read-up first, you can get on fine with these cars. If you want to pay specialists 150mi away to do things then that’s also fine, but will obviously impact on your lifetime ownership costs.
I see what you are saying and im all for diy on most things. Ive just seen too many zf boxes munch because of skipping bits or not quite doing things right. Im not sure how it would hinxer my relationship wuth the l322....ultimately id know its been done properly and will continue to work well long after my ownership if i pay a bit of cash every 70k miles. Ultimately saving me 2-3k on having to cough up for a new gear box. The mechatronic sleeve is cheap enough that whilst you ar down there it sbould be replaced. Also zf updated/upgraded the sleeve because it was falling short and can leak.
@@ashleyatkins7939 Against all special advices in my manual box, I am running ATF VI for last 100k miles. No problem at all. Fuel consumption lowered by 10, maybe 12 % on motorways. It is changed every 30k miles.
Nice video thanks! Just one thing for anyone looking to change gearbox or diff oil (goes without saying but we all start somewhere!) Make sure you can open and remove your FILLER plug before dropping your oils :D Nothing worse than dropping oil then realising you have no way to fill it back up again as you can't get the filler plug out or something similar (not speaking from experience thankfully haha)
I had the same TPMS issue with my TDV8 and I was not bothered but like you annoyed. So I bought a Gap IID tool and used it to disable the TPMS system by writing over the CCF. It worked a treat and no more TPMS lights or warnings!
Great videos, just noticed, at 6:45, the old filter pan has a date code stamped on it, 27 Jul 2017. Better safe than sorry though!
Forgot to mention as I’m sure you know you don’t get all the fluid out by removing the pan . There’s still a lot in the oil cooler, pipes etc so in effect you are mixing clean fluid with some dirty stuff. I read it takes about three changes to get all the contaminated oil out but who knows where people come up with stats like that. One tip which I’m sure you also know is make sure the filler plug can come out before you drain diffs, transfer case etc. I fell foul of that. Drained all the oil and for the life of me couldn’t get the filler out. Lucky for me a neighbour has a compressor and impact gun and he was able to help otherwise I would have had to be towed or transported to our local garage.
As it happens I actually did 3 changes like this (in the hope it would be somewhere near a flush).
I also remove diff/transaxle filler plugs first too - always good practice. You’ll see that in the diff & transfer case video 👍
you seemed to omit the important bit of running the box up to temp, running it through the gears and the topping it back up?
Yeah, that video definitely didn’t run through every step. I did a more in-depth video on a ZF8HP transmission on a BMW 530d though.
There are many ways to drain the rest of the fluid. If it is not your daily driver the easiest if to drain the sump. Refit the plug loosen the oil cooler pipe at the front to let air in. And leave like this for a week. Then redrain. You may get another 2 l out.
Your OSR tyre is low on pressure hence why the TPMS light may be on. Also the Tyre pressure warning system not functioning is an MOT failure.
*only applies to cars manufactured 2012 onwards I think.
@@Nut_Job. I stand corrected you are right.
I know this is 2 years old but you said it passed its mot! I’m sure I saw threads on that passenger rear tyre! I’d be worried about them before the oil 🤦♂️
Previous owners mate probably did the mot for him, those discs would be an advisory at least if they aren’t already on mot history, as for the tpms, I’m sure they’re a fail 🤔
Father Jack Hackett
If the car was from 2012 or newer then yes, it’s an MOT fail. As mine is a 2007 car, thankfully that doesn’t apply... (I think 🤔)
Nut Job you could be right, never thought about looking that far back 😂
Disks are not a fail unless there cracked or damaged
Hi, great video…what is the specification on the fluid that this 3.6 needs please 😁
You lucky sod, that job is way more awkward on a discovery 3, due to 2 crossmembers obscuring the bolts at either end
That sounds like a pain. Do you need to release the crossmembers or can you get a slim Torx bit in there?
You can leave the crossmembers in situ, but you need a Torx bit in a ratchet spanner. That just about fits. Then you need a hacksaw blade to cut the neck of the old filter, then turn it sideways. The nee one has a separate filter which makes it easier
I'm interested to see how this works out, if I can run one for £3600 a year in repairs (what my current car payments are) I think I'll get one.
The fuel is neither here nor there tbh it's just heavy repair costs and plenty of faults that puts me off
add in the lack of depreciation and it's a no brainer
If you intend to flush automatic box, replace as much as you can, run it for 5 minutes. Repeat 3 times. 95% of oil will be fresh. That's all really.
Hello Nut Job , and a happy New Year !
Where did you buy the instant judder fix? , i can't find it.
Happy New Year! I think I found it on eBay 👍
@@Nut_Job. thank you very much , do you have a email adress if you can leave it here and i'll message you.
It's easier to get a transmission flush ,costs £250 changes all the fluid ,the filters don't get dirty anyway
Filters can get silted up. The “lifetime” seal on the gearbox is no more than 120,000 miles. If you’re dropping the fluid out, you might as well change the filters, as it’s better to be safe. You’re spending £100+ on fluids alone, so why contaminate them…?
One other thing I’m looking at getting a Range Rover sometime this year but I’m undecided between a 2.7 sport and a 3.0ltr but no higher than a 3.0 have you any tips as to what one to go for cheers in advance
I have only had the 3.6TDV8, but I believe the 3.0TD is the better of those two engines.
I'm really interested in what you're doing but you need to sort you sound out - suspect you need a remote mike.
George S Yorks
Hi daft question did you notice a difference after doing your gear box fluid change many thanks ian
ian youd
Hi Ian, to be honest... no. But I think it’d already been done after looking at the old pan/filter. I think if you’re over 100k and it hasn’t been done then it’s a really good idea. I only put the Dr Tranny stuff in after reading internet comments & just because why not 🤔
All the best 👍
@@Nut_Job. many thanks only just come across your you tube videos regarding your new range rover watching them all now very interesting many thanks for your reply, ian
Gearbox fault light came up on my SCV8 5.0 but the car drives and shifts fine. Help anyone?
How do you know when it's got the correct amount
Hello just saw this video you done a while back I didn’t catch that stuff you said you added in with the oil can you tell me please what was it called again cheers in advance for telling me
In that video I think I added a couple of tubes of a product called “Dr Tranny”... it sounds funny, but you’ll find it straight away with Google. It’s a friction modifier which helps if you have an older automatic transmission. New ATF in an older/worn transmission can actually lead to more slipping in the clutch packs because all the old clutch material has been flushed away. This can (not always) help with that.
Why did you not go for the V6? Btw, you can pick them up for 3 grand
Probably because the 3.6L V8 is by far a better engine. Had the V6 for a couple of years then bought a V8. Smoother, quieter, faster and approx the same mpg.
2x extra cylinders! By all accounts it is the superior engine.
No replacement for displacement.....
Td6 shit
Any reviws of the anti stutter stuff?
It didn’t make a big difference in my case. But the Dr Tranny stuff (or whatever it’s called) is supposed to help a bit by modifying the fluid viscosity.
Hp28?
The issue here with the zf boxes are. You didnt use zf fluid. Didnt follow the correct procedure ie the temp its done at. Didnt change the mechatronic sleeve , bolts of the sump/filter must torque to the correct spec in the correct order as the sump is plastic and can flex easily of tightened incorrectly and the adaptions should be reset after the service.
Most of these super flushes and self services are done incorrectly.
Theres only one guy in the uk id trust with a zf box and will always travel the 300 mile round trip to get it done properly.
Ashley Atkins
Fair enough, but actually I did do a lot of those things.
I did use non OEM fluid... but
I did check & final fill @ 35-40deg with engine running.
I did torque the bolts correctly
I also torqued them in the correct order - something proper drummers will be familiar with too 🤔
The sleeve wasn’t leaking so I left it alone (I’m sure against procedure)
Again, this is just me... doing my thing - not instructing anyone what to do. Just making a video log of my fun journey.
If you’re prepared to get stuck in & read-up first, you can get on fine with these cars. If you want to pay specialists 150mi away to do things then that’s also fine, but will obviously impact on your lifetime ownership costs.
I see what you are saying and im all for diy on most things.
Ive just seen too many zf boxes munch because of skipping bits or not quite doing things right.
Im not sure how it would hinxer my relationship wuth the l322....ultimately id know its been done properly and will continue to work well long after my ownership if i pay a bit of cash every 70k miles. Ultimately saving me 2-3k on having to cough up for a new gear box.
The mechatronic sleeve is cheap enough that whilst you ar down there it sbould be replaced. Also zf updated/upgraded the sleeve because it was falling short and can leak.
Ashley Atkins Who is the guy you use?
@@MatteBlack172 Aaron at RGA BMW SERVICES
@@ashleyatkins7939 Against all special advices in my manual box, I am running ATF VI for last 100k miles. No problem at all. Fuel consumption lowered by 10, maybe 12 % on motorways. It is changed every 30k miles.
the range rover are only made to be watched not to be owned
How much did hr buy it for?
Phil.T.McNastee £5k
It was the cheapest Vogue SE with an MOT by a long way! 👍