Looking forward to future videos pertaining to front end suspension. You are so right about the need to be patient in removing the steering box with the engine in the car. It does take time to take the box out. I removed and reinstalled my stock manual box but it involved removing the front seat, column, exhaust manifold, two spark plugs, cross support from fender to fire wall, and the valve cover. Box came out from the top with a 180 degree rotation. The rebuilt box went right back in with a few added cuss words when trying to mount the box to the frame. Always appreciate videos like yours that explains the full story of doing a particular job. Ace
@etmccaus with the engine in place, you’ll take it out the top, you need to remove the header or exhaust manifold and clutch linkage if you have a manual transmission. It only takes about two hours to swap one if you have the tools for the job.
good video and descriptions all the way through ,only comment was i had to run it at x2 speed as was getting bored waiting on getting to the important pieces/clips
There’s an old saying: “You can have it good, cheap or fast, pick two”. Rather than cheap, you can substitute complete, or thorough. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the E-Z to follow steps (in this video and others). I just picked up a '65 fastback survivor that had been in a barn from 1972-2010. Overall good condition but with a pile of little things (like the steering box)that need attention before the fun stuff (six to V8 swap) begins. I'm taking copious notes on all your vids. Thanks!
@@TheGT350Garage I just did the gear box change. I never touched any steering components besides taking the pitman arm off. After installation, my toe is severely out of wack. I cant figure out why.
If you used a new pitman arm or changed to or from the Shelby quick steer pitman and idler, it will affect toe. Also, minor differences in box location on the frame rail can move the steering up, down, forward or backwards, also changing toe.
Don’t remove the upper collet for the turn signal switch from the tube, it can come off as one piece. Remove the U-clamp under the dash and slide the tube up off the steering shaft. If you remove the collet, it’s a real pain to put back together.
Not sure what you mean. I didn’t remove the steering shaft from the box. I did remove the steering column tube however, that’s just a matter of removing the steering wheel and the under dash clamp that holds the tube up.
Good video. I need to rebuild my 65 steering box because there is so much slop in my steering wheel that it is kind of dangerous. So what I need to do is remove drivers side long tube header. Then I will have enough room to push the long rod and steering box up against the fire wall to lean it down to come out the bottom?? Those two bolts you remove under the dash allow the steering shaft and box move freely?? Sorry for so many questions.
Actually, with the header and clutch linkage removed, and the steering column removed in the interior, the box comes out the top with the engine in the car.
Great video. I have a 1965 fastback that the previous owner made a Shelby replica. A longer pitman arm was installed and I would like to know the correct steering gearbox ratio so I purchase the correct one. Thanks in advance. Matt
The Shelby ratio was 16:1 and the longer pitman and idler made it closer to 13:1. You’ll definitely need a 15” minimum steering wheel unless you’re a gym rat, otherwise parking it will be no fun. Be sure to use a roller idler arm and don’t get carried away with caster, more than 3.5-4° positive will really make low speed turns difficult.
I just bought a new quick ratio steering box from Chockostang. I haven't watched your video but don't you have the engine out? I'm not looking forward to the R&R of the box with the engine in.
So, the key is going to be removing the steering column tube through the dash into the interior, with the tube removed you’ll be able to slide the box down and under the steering drag link and it will come out of the car, it’s about a 2-3 hour project to swap the steering box with a long shaft.
Really, it’s a rust free car, and the right tools make it easy. I just did a timing chain guide and cam actuator replacement on my wife’s 4.8L Porsche Cayenne, total labor for the job is about 27 hours, I did it in 16 and the car runs and drives like new. Again, the right tools, but I guess skill and experience helps too.
Looking forward to future videos pertaining to front end suspension. You are so right about the need to be patient in removing the steering box with the engine in the car. It does take time to take the box out. I removed and reinstalled my stock manual box but it involved removing the front seat, column, exhaust manifold, two spark plugs, cross support from fender to fire wall, and the valve cover. Box came out from the top with a 180 degree rotation. The rebuilt box went right back in with a few added cuss words when trying to mount the box to the frame. Always appreciate videos like yours that explains the full story of doing a particular job. Ace
I need to do this on my '65...nooooot looking forward to it.
@etmccaus with the engine in place, you’ll take it out the top, you need to remove the header or exhaust manifold and clutch linkage if you have a manual transmission. It only takes about two hours to swap one if you have the tools for the job.
good video and descriptions all the way through ,only comment was i had to run it at x2 speed as was getting bored waiting on getting to the important pieces/clips
There’s an old saying: “You can have it good, cheap or fast, pick two”. Rather than cheap, you can substitute complete, or thorough. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the E-Z to follow steps (in this video and others). I just picked up a '65 fastback survivor that had been in a barn from 1972-2010. Overall good condition but with a pile of little things (like the steering box)that need attention before the fun stuff (six to V8 swap) begins. I'm taking copious notes on all your vids. Thanks!
You’re welcome!
@@TheGT350Garage I just did the gear box change. I never touched any steering components besides taking the pitman arm off. After installation, my toe is severely out of wack. I cant figure out why.
If you used a new pitman arm or changed to or from the Shelby quick steer pitman and idler, it will affect toe. Also, minor differences in box location on the frame rail can move the steering up, down, forward or backwards, also changing toe.
Thanks for the share! Really helped me out 🎉
Great video. great pace! looking forward to seeing more videos. and Nice Car!
You skipped the part about taking the top part of the steering tube apart, thats what i needed to see most.
Don’t remove the upper collet for the turn signal switch from the tube, it can come off as one piece. Remove the U-clamp under the dash and slide the tube up off the steering shaft. If you remove the collet, it’s a real pain to put back together.
Super useful, thanks for the video!
that's insane how easily things come off on yours. Mine was a Bear
California car, stored indoors the past 45 years no rust. It does make a difference.
Great video
Informative as always! Are you going to rebuild the box yourself?
You didn’t show how you got the shaft out of the old steering box.
Not sure what you mean. I didn’t remove the steering shaft from the box. I did remove the steering column tube however, that’s just a matter of removing the steering wheel and the under dash clamp that holds the tube up.
Good video. I need to rebuild my 65 steering box because there is so much slop in my steering wheel that it is kind of dangerous. So what I need to do is remove drivers side long tube header. Then I will have enough room to push the long rod and steering box up against the fire wall to lean it down to come out the bottom?? Those two bolts you remove under the dash allow the steering shaft and box move freely?? Sorry for so many questions.
Actually, with the header and clutch linkage removed, and the steering column removed in the interior, the box comes out the top with the engine in the car.
Can you remove the steering rod from the old box, I am installing power steering?? I can't see how to do it
Are you talking about the steering shaft or the pitman arm?
Great video. I have a 1965 fastback that the previous owner made a Shelby replica. A longer pitman arm was installed and I would like to know the correct steering gearbox ratio so I purchase the correct one. Thanks in advance. Matt
The Shelby ratio was 16:1 and the longer pitman and idler made it closer to 13:1. You’ll definitely need a 15” minimum steering wheel unless you’re a gym rat, otherwise parking it will be no fun. Be sure to use a roller idler arm and don’t get carried away with caster, more than 3.5-4° positive will really make low speed turns difficult.
@@TheGT350Garage Thanks, and once again great video. Matt
I just bought a new quick ratio steering box from Chockostang. I haven't watched your video but don't you have the engine out? I'm not looking forward to the R&R of the box with the engine in.
So, the key is going to be removing the steering column tube through the dash into the interior, with the tube removed you’ll be able to slide the box down and under the steering drag link and it will come out of the car, it’s about a 2-3 hour project to swap the steering box with a long shaft.
he must have sold his soul the the Devil to be getting the Pitman arm off that easily, just sayin'
Really, it’s a rust free car, and the right tools make it easy.
I just did a timing chain guide and cam actuator replacement on my wife’s 4.8L Porsche Cayenne, total labor for the job is about 27 hours, I did it in 16 and the car runs and drives like new. Again, the right tools, but I guess skill and experience helps too.