Here's Why Jeeps are the Biggest POS Vehicles Ever Made
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- Опубликовано: 17 окт 2023
- Jeep Grand Cherokee review. Here's Why This Jeep Grand Cherokee is Crap, DIY and car review with Scotty Kilmer. Are Jeeps Grand Cherokees any good? The best Jeeps and new Jeep problems. Should I buy a Jeep. Buying a new Jeep. I Just Got a Jeep and It's Already Falling Apart. Is Jeep the best SUV? Is Jeep reliable? Why Not to Buy a Jeep. Car advice. DIY car repair with Scotty Kilmer, an auto mechanic for the last 55 years.
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Check that rubber brake line that goes to the caliper from the chassis to the caliper inside that brake line it'll be swollen like shut and mash the brake pedal down you got looking 78900 lb of pressure going down when you let up your foot you ain't got no pressure coming up with a bad hose and it seemed like a stuck caliper change the
Scotty, Please help! My local mechanic is charging me $810 to replace my 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee battery. He said that he also had to charge me for a new auxiliary battery, AAA tow fee and 2 hours of labor. Does this seem possibly correct?
I don't wanna get rude with this guy, but I have a feeling I might be getting scammed.
Nothings more relaxing than chilling out after a long day with a beer in one hand and listening to Scotty talk trash about terrible car companies and their failures
😂 👍
literally haha
Scotty try stand up comedy you make me Laugh 🤣🤣🤣
Moral of the story if a mechanic you're unfamiliar with or don't trust claims he "replaced something" anything at all, ask for the old parts back..
Used to work in NYC. We used to have plastic bags to give old parts to them if they asked. Was the law in the 1990's.
Calipers have a core charge. You'll pay at least $50 more if you want the old ones back.
ALways, put it in writing on the invoice with estimate.
Caught a MB mechanic who gave me a part for another mb want the one he replaced.
Flaky industry, worked in enough shops to know. Brake, trans and esp body shops are the worst thieves on the planet. Trans shops only replace what broke, rest of the old parts go back in youll never know
@@gordocarbo Some are. Just like all professions. But mechanics work harder than anyone else. It is a dirty difficult and dangerous work. A DDD JOB. I will rather be a cop or pilot. Yes, been those too.
@@outwiththem Cop making excuses for being dogs* because their job is hard? Checks out.
A friend of mine is an MIT trained Mech Eng. His brother-in-law owns a garage outside of NYC. He once asked him what cars were the best engineered. He was told that Jeeps were. My friend asked why he said that, and he replied "Do you know how hard it is to engineer parts and systems that fail so precisely?"
Been a tech over 30 years…my elderly dad has been driving a 2000 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4.0 for the last 20 years…after 200k developed low oil pressure and a piston slap…I bought it off him I’ll fix it but we bought him a 2011 Grand Cherokee 5.7 HEMI 4x4…other than the broken exhaust bolt Hemi tick…(I’ll fix it no biggie)…it’s a GREAT truck. 158k it’s in great shape but we are in southern N.C. So ZERO rust:)
I have a 2015 Grand Cherokee with 100,000 miles. Its garage kept. Very little rust and I live in Pa. Washing the underside frequently in winter helps. Also fluid film helps.
Scotty can be a dumb azz sometimes.
Most conscious and strongest reply in front of numerous Kilmer's POS calls😂
Same here 2015 Grand Cherokee with 180,000. No problems just basic maintenance. Also live in Pa.
My ecodiesel is rusted like crazy cuz it’s in Ontario. Did you guys Krown rust proofed yours?
A little maintenance
Helps a Ton😮
I'm currently driving an old 2000 B3000 pickup. I went to the Jeep dealership to drive a new Commander. I am still driving the B3000. The Jeep was put together so cheaply that I would rather continue to drive a beat up 21 year old (at the time) truck than the new Jeep. Still driving the B3000.
The cars today are so poorly made. We went to look at n Audi Q7 to replace our aging Lexus and the Q7 had nothing but cheap plastic throughout the interior. And they wanted 60k...give me a break. We decided to keep the Lexus...
2013 Laredo that I bought brand new. I’ve had it for 10 years with 133k miles and it has been a really good car. No major issues!!
Same here. Mobil 1 Synthetic and filter every 5k without fail. About to switch over to Royal Purple next change though. LT265/70/17 Sumitomo Encounter AT tires [Sumitomo is the parent company of Falken so they're the more road mannered version of the Falken Wilpeaks AT3W's] balanced and rotated at every oil change interval as well. Even though they claim the the transmission is lifetime fluid and doesn't need to be changed make sure you do. Same with your rear differential fluid [front/rear and transfer case as well if you have a 4x4]. Stay with either the Mopar fluid or get the ZF Lifeguard 8 since it's cheaper and that's who actually makes the Mopar fluid to begin with! Depending on your particular usage and driving style you may need to service that stuff soon though. Don't go past 120-135 without doing so. That kind of preventative maintenance is what makes the difference between having to replace/rebuild your tranny, differentials and transfer case! Doing so will keep everything running like butter!
Prior to my retiring, the police department I worked for went through a phase where we slowly converted our patrol fleet to the Dodge Charger. Oh, those black and white vehicles were sharp looking but it took us about a year before we had to start replacing the lower control arms. This became a yearly task, with the lower control arms being replaced 3 times on some of the cruisers. We spoke to other police agencies and they were having the same issue. One agency was on a fast track to ridding their patrol fleet of the Dodge Charger. We slowly began phasing them out and were down to 1 when I retired. I've since learned from one mechanic that it isn't just the Chargers, he said that ALL Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep vehicles have the same lower control arm issue. The lower control arms are an absolute junk part. When it goes bad, dealerships replace it with a brand new, yet identical, absolute junk part.
I had this problem with my 300 unfortunately, and as soon as you replace, you’ll need to replace it again, lol. And come to find out the 5.7 hemi motor destroyed itself shortly after I sold it with about 150,000 miles. It was pretty solid otherwise 🥴
Probably why I haven’t seen Chargers in my town. Sheriffs, highway patrol, everyone has a Tahoe or F150. Idk if it’s because they’re great year round, especially during the winterty season.
@@ARealPain The Chargers were terrible in the snow. On snowy nights, I'd always drive one of the old fwd Impala's that we had on the lot.
Chrysler is garbage
I’m surprised they haven’t tried a v6 Camry
I did a stupid thing and followed someone’s advice and bought a 2019 jeep renegade. In two years I only put 4400 miles on it and it was constantly in the shop being repaired. the last break down I had. The entire air conditioning system went out of it right at 4000 miles, that is the day I decided to get rid of it, and traded it for a Toyota Highlander.
Best decision you made was buying a Toyota! Enjoy it 🍻
This is very similar to my story. In December of 2018 I brought a new 2018 Jeep Renegade, the fact that model year was still on the lot unsold should have been a clue to stay away. As it got to 60k miles, started having all sorts of the issues and really didn't inspire confidence while driving it. I decided to cut my losses and in May 2023, traded it in for a certified pre-owned 2021 Toyota RAV4 Hybrid, I am absolutely thrilled with it.
My dad has a 2019 renegade the ac doesn't blow cold he already tried having it fixed but they didn't fix it
@@Bond007er Time to ship it down the road motors and buy a reliable vehicle (Toyota). Just my two cents working on a lot of these.
I wouldve never even touched a jeep renegade
i wish i could have you as my uncle, scotty. You are so knowledgeable and the way you explain things with cars just makes sense. The videos will suffice, though. Thank you for educating all of us on some things that more people really need to know!
If this was a Toyota that would be “surface rust” in Scottie’s book.
Bhahahahah true story 😂😂😂😂😂
No kidding. All those parts rust no matter what make it is in states that use salt. There's nothing you can do about it. You can slow it down if you have a way to remove the salt during the winter, which a lot of people don't.
@@mplslawnguy3389You can do something its called rust profing you need to apply a good quality sticky grease with parafin or bee wax on clean surface with minimum of 1/8 thick covering. Oh and you need to do it each fall. In spring you clean the under body with garden hose to remove crystalize salt. If your good at it you can keep a car 20 years no problem.
Does Krown rust proofing work permanently?
That's because Toyota makes dependable cars.
The rubber hoses should also be changed when doing the calibers they close up inside over a period of time. Easy to do.
Could be the flexible brake line swollen on the inside. It acts as a check valve, allowing high pressure fluid to flow to the caliper but not returning because there's no pressure pushing back. Happens all the time. It often doesn't show on the outside of the hose because, it being a high pressure hose, it has a steel braid embedded in the rubber. The inner rubber swells against the braiding, closing the opening of the hose up.
Can't believe Scotty didn't think of that one.
My mechanic always told me that JEEP stood for “Just Empty Every Pocket”
Junk each every part :)
100000000% agree Scotty, I have owned two jeep wranglers, a Durango, a Concorde and a Caravan. Thousands of dollars into the jeeps to keep them straight down the road. The Durango rusted like crazy, the Caravan was a caravan of 93, and the Concorde was an 01 with Mitsubishi under the hood. Needless to say now we have two Subaru's in the drive.
Jeep didn't start getting bad until Chrysler went away from the AMC specifications and parts. The TJ was the last Jeep that was still essentially an AMC. Once Chrysler began selling a car that was nothing more than an expensive grocery getter, all the problems of any other brand came to the fore: sensors, poor brake parts from low bid makers, gadtetry thatfailed, etc, etc. Theyreally weren't thatbad in comparison to omost other brands, though. but, theywere a lot better when AMC made them.
Spot on !!
Better, but not good. I had an 1983 cj7. Idle control solenoid failed, steering box failed, and it came from the factory with a bent axle housing new....in first 2 years. But to be fair all american cars were pieces of crap then.
I agree 👍
(I own a 88 YJ on 35s)dad owns LJ on 36s) I drove a 2 door JL manual at a dealership I was working at, they are nice it's the same formula as they always been, but the only good thing about them is the Dana axles rest is Chrysler crap
Jeeps weren't bad then. I had an '86 CJ8.
So happy I got over my FOMO a couple months ago of badly wanting a gladiator
Scotty knows his stuff! Love your videos. I get tickled watching you talk because I had a manager years ago from New York and he talked with his hands like that too and as we were all in Georgia, we weren't used to all those hand movements. 😄
2011 wrangler: First rep!aced Steering damper, kind of ok. Then installed heavy duty track bar death wobble gone.
I had this exact year and model Grand Cherokee ( Australia) and I couldn't fault one single thing on it with 265,000 klm on it. I now have a Wrangler with 320,000 klm on it and once again it's a brilliant vehicle. One poorly maintained example of a Jeep that's been worked on by dodgy mechanics doesn't make all Jeeps POS
Thank you mate. I visited NSW in 1979. What a beautiful , undeveloped coastline once you got out of Sydney. The F-100 was the king of the highway according to my Aussie friend. It might be king but I only saw one.
Came here to say just that. I own a Chrysler 300. Nothing but basic maintenance its whole life. Pick a good mechanic and pay that man! Chrysler products generally sell to people that cant afford more. That same person has less ability to pay for necessary repairs and they fall into disrepair thus leading to their "reputation".
If you were a technician you’d know they have serious issues. You make it sound like they are as reliable as Toyota’s…. I work on them and your example is the EXCEPTION, definitely not the RULE!
@@nordicpride9708 Not really. Because if He's the Exception, then I'm the exception too. I've owned Jeeps for 20+ years. I have three of them now. A 1989 Wagoneer LTD that's my Trail Rig, a 2005 Laredo that's my daily driver and a 2012 Overland that my wife drives. And he's right. With basic maintenance, these things will just last and last! My 1989 has over 250K miles on it and it's still going strong. That 4.0L engine is bullet proof...as long as you take care of it!
I'm glad both of your Jeeps have given you good service but it's been my experience that Scotty is correct, Jeeps are crap
My 2017 GC has over 121k. Running great
My dad who passed away long ago used to own a 90s Jeep Wrangler, brand new at the time. The oil pan kept leaking, and the dealership “fixed it” twice. Only 10k miles, the Jeep started leaking oil again. Apparently he just drove it in the dealership bay, parked it there and left as it created a puddle of oil and a mess everywhere. I think lemon law allowed him to get rid of it, and he drove a 98 Corolla up until he passed
Same problem on my Dodge ram turned out to be the rubber flexible hose coming from the fixed brake line to the caliper it delaminates on the inside and creates a check valve sort of effect keeping pressure on doesn't let the hydraulic fluid out a rubber hose
I have been fixing Jeep 'death wobbles' for years. I just replace the junky factory steering damper with a higher quality steering damper ( like a Bilstein, Koni, KYB etc) I've done this to like 20 Jeeps, I used to work in a Jeep specialty shop. A bad brake caliper or internally damaged brake hose will cause a pull, not a death wobble.
I've had jeep brake calipers heat and warp the rotor on one side ...it was a HELL of a wobble
@@wennerygunsmithing5213 +1
I agree. But the wobble could be explained wrong and Scotty could of taken his description of a "wobble" and said "oh you have the death wobble" . We're honestly not exactly sure the symptoms. Like only happens with hot or it's all the time or a certain speed etc?
@danieldillon6436 Wish you lived nearby. 😢 '11 Chrysler over here with a new creepy shimmy going on.
I have had death wobble on my WJ because sticky brake caliper. ....Also track bar bushings.......Also track rod bushes... Fixed em all, steers like its on rails now.
I have a Grand Cherokee with 272,000 miles on original motor and transmission with no repairs other than brakes and suspension typical stuff.
What year? WK2? I have 121,000 miles on my 2016. No issues other than replacing rotors and pads, just put new struts on.
@@kmorris9098nice!! You have a lot of year left. Mine is 2008 WK. I also bought a 2023 GC L WL and I love it. Hopefully my WK gets to 500k miles
At work our yard vehicle is a 04 suburban with 420,000 miles so rusty I kicked the side step off still running perfectly stock motor and trans
Live in the south. Got the same vehicle. 280 thousand miles and still looks great. Cut the abs lines at 100 thousand because of calipers sticking. Been doing great ever since. Replace stabilizer shock to stop wobble.
I needs aftermarket steering stabilizers ! I’ve dealt with this before when I was working at The Truck Guys in Weymouth Massachusetts 👍👍👍👍👌👌😊🇺🇸
Good job on posting this Scotty😊
05 Jeep GC and the thing is solid, it’s got an ignition switch sensor that went out but mechanically it does not let down
'96 grand Cherokee, ' 99 Cherokee, '11 Liberty. I loved them all Scotty. Still driving the Liberty but the NE rust monster is starting to eat it up too😢
I had a 2005 Grand Cherokee 5.7 and the interior fell apart. Door handles etc and the T-handle to put it in 4x4 low broke. It was a plastic handle with chrome on it. Awesome ride though with a hemi full time 4x4 with low. I had a 99 Grand Cherokee with the 4.7 as well and loved it. No problems at all with it.
Fat sweaty people make the fabric melt with the salts from the sweat. LOL..
@outwiththem Gee, thanks for sharing. 🤔
I owned a 2007 Patriot and loved it. Mine had the 2.4 with a straight drive
I have an 2011 GC 100,000 mi the hood rusted at 5 years they replaced it. At 95,000 the ticking was getting really noticeable. Thank God for our lifetime unlimited miles factory warranty. Needed cams rockers the works.
The answer I found after tightening everything up and replacing everything from Weil joints to control Arms is a high level steering stabilizer.
I’ve owned 3 Grand Cherokees in my life and loved them and had no major problems with the ones I’ve owned.
You were lucky. Jeep is the turd of Chrysler.
Ive had 6+ grand cherokees and I will continue to buy more.
@@DakotaJaegle I may be buying an 05 this week, but I'm cautious after listening to this video and reading these comments. From your experience, is there anything I should watch out for? I just need a car for transportation so it's between the JGC or a Chevy Impala of the same year.
@@greatdimitri1049 I'm on my second Grand Cherokee (2012/2017) and never had major issues - They definitely aren't all created equal.
Your suppose to replace the brake hoses when installing new capliers. Sometimes the brake hose can look perfect but they fail internally it happens alot
30 years of owning Toyotas and Hondas with the odd ford and bmw thrown in. Some over 20 years/300,000 Km old. I’ve had to replace a calliper exactly never.
@@gpaull2 I had to replace both rear calipers and brake hoses on my 04 Acura TSX.
Yes I agree with the brake hoses being changed also, I had a problem with that myself , I changed the caliper and wheel still stuck found out it was the hose all the time
You really good and funny the best keep up the great work helping people god bless scotti
Thanks for all the great videos Scotty! As you have said a bazillion times, maintenance, maintenance, maintenance. I personally have a 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that is my daily driver. I get 23mpgs. I looked into Chrysler's recommended maintenance suggestions, and it's extensive to say the least. Every 60k, replace the front and rear diff. fluid. 80k the transfer case fluid. 100k the coolant, spark plugs and coils. I change my synthetic oil every 20k, but the filter every 10k. The disturbing thing is they don't have a recommended transmission filter/fluid change intervals. The Dealerships (more than a dozen!!!) say it's a sealed unit and it never gets changed 😮😂. Every fluid used is synthetic, so what's so magical about the transmission fluid??? Anyway, I currently have 236,500 miles on it, and just put it's 3rd set of tires on it since new!! BF GOODRICH tires are awesome! Other than what I just mentioned, I've done the brakes 3 times. I can't complain; but just recently; THE DEATH WOBBLE 😂😂😂. I am currently working on replacing struts, shocks, rear springs (Rough Country) , all 4 wheel bearings. Once I get it apart I will inspect the ball joints and bushings to see if I should replace them too. Not bad for a newer "American" Vehicle !!!
I have a 2014 Cherokee Latitude with 3.2 L V-6. The only problem I’ve had is the cam/valve problem at 96,000 miles. Three phone calls to Jeep/Chrysler and they had the dealer fix it. Other than that, no problems at 148,800 miles. Knock on wood. 🤫
Knock on plastic, too !!
Have the plastic oil cooler housing checked if you haven't replaced it already, they ALL fail due to being plastic.
I never seen anything rust away like jeeps. Oh the “Jeep” crowd will say they are great even after losing transmissions, engines, rocker panels gone, etc.. It is so laughable to listen to them. My coworker for 25 years had three and had so much trouble with them all. Finally after the third money pit was gone he fell off the Jeep wagon for good. I owned a 1994 Toyota Camry from new and drove it 22 years without fail. Sold it with 550,000 km on it still working fine.
maybe the Brake hose was clamped when they changed the Caliper at some point. Happens more than you would think. It is a hardwall hose.
My wife has a 2016 grand Cherokee. It still runs perfect. My 2015 4runner started to leak oil after 3 years. Toyota wanted to rebuild the engine.
I have had 2 jeep liberty’s 06 and 05 and I have never had any issues I love my jeeps
04 Liberty here and we had TONS of problems.
@@wydopnthrtl Most are good 200k miles and up. But some were lemons. My lifted liberty is nice.. 2007 with leather seats and all powers..
Death wobble on independent front suspension would be a first.
Old Ford twin cry beam suspension.
I have an 03 jeep compass, 200,00 and the only think wrong was a drive shaft balancing bearing gasket. Awd in the summer
Hey Scotty : maybe a Stretched rubber brake line, from hanging caliper or stretching hose (insides) . I don't see it often.
But hanging not supporting when brake job services are performed?
I have a 2016 Grand Cherokee Limited that has 80K miles and never given 1 minute of trouble. I look after it. Oil changed every 3k miles.
Same here. Mobil 1 Synthetic and filter every 5k without fail. About to switch over to Royal Purple next change though. LT265/70/17 Sumitomo Encounter AT tires [Sumitomo is the parent company of Falken so they're the more road mannered version of the Falken Wilpeaks AT3W's] balanced and rotated at every oil change interval as well. Even though they claim the the transmission is lifetime fluid and doesn't need to be changed make sure you do. Same with your rear differential fluid [front/rear and transfer case as well if you have a 4x4]. Stay with either the Mopar fluid or get the ZF Lifeguard 8 since it's cheaper and that's who actually makes the Mopar fluid to begin with! Depending on your particular usage and driving style you may need to service that stuff soon though. Don't go past 100k without doing so. That kind of preventative maintenance is what makes the difference between having to replace/rebuild your tranny, differentials and transfer case. Doing so will keep everything running like butter!
I've also heard that as the vehicle ages the brake hoses can get soft and collapse too! I've had two Grand Cherokees and an AMC Chrysler Cherokee Limited, the car had AMC tags on it but made by Chrysler. The 98 Grand Cherokee had okay brakes until it started to get older and I had the same problem of throwing Parts on and only making it temporarily better. Other than that I love my jeeps but I don't look forward to the Fiat models! Fiat seems to destroy everything they touch!!😮😢😢
Question...I may be buying a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee this week. Some say it's an excellent buy and then some like Scott here says it's a terrible buy. What's your opinion? I can choose between the Jeep or a Chevy Impala the same year as the jeep. I'm paying cash and I just need a car/suv to get around.
@@RobertSpiller I'm not 100% sure when that model year started but mine's a 2006 and it's the type with the double headlight where are the ones before that looked closer to my 98 than the one I use now. I've had my 2006 for almost 3 years now it had 122,000 on it the exterior has no rust even to this day and the interior was in very good shape too and I have the 47 in it and it came with almost new tires. I paid $6,000 cash in Green Bay Wisconsin. But the only work I've had done on it is air conditioning which was done twice. She doesn't burn any oil and I'm hoping to keep it for a number of years. The one thing I can say that the older models were a little better at my 98 and then the next model the one in between you could still get the 4 L straight six. They call that motor Bulletproof as I've never had anything done on the inside of any of these motors, just water pumps. When I had my the straight six I would get over 20 miles around home here and if I drove to Florida in the winter time my mileage would improve all the way down to Daytona Beach or Fort Lauderdale. I found for every 3 lb of air over I would get one mile per gallon extra. both older ones topped out at 28 miles per gallon where is my newer one I get 18 around here and I haven't had it on a long trip yet. I hope this helps?
I meant the 4.7 L in the 2006
@@DavidJones-me7yr Yes it did...thank you
Our 04 Grand Cherokee is still going with our grandson at college, that's a northern car on Salt covered rds and potholes.
See Scott's other video on the Grand Cherokee, the one jeep he'd own !
Scotty, it’s the rubber brake line and the clamp is rusting. It reduces the inside diameter of the hose and it won’t let the break release.
2019 Grand Cherokee 3.6 purchased new. Currently at 48K and runs perfect. It gets hand washed regularly and the underbody gets sprayed after every winter. All depends on how well you take care of it. Not sure how the new ones are but the previous MB engineered ones are known to last very long.
jeeps are and were not MB engineered
At 70k that’s when the issues start trust me
That's just a warm up for Toyotas. My Tacoma is at 170k. I do my own mechanic work and that truck will run to 300k easily.
48K without problems is not impressive. It should be expected.
48k wow that might be a new record for a heep
I learned not to use rebuilt calipers when I bought a rebuilt one from Advance Auto parts and when checking the bleeder screw I found it wouldn’t release. I finally got it loose and found out the screw was rusted in place. The rebuilder never even took it out. And when I took it back they did not have another one.
yeah I would definately suspect that rubber brake line, brother had that issue one one of his dodges.
Yup. You should see under my GMC 2011 Sierra, a piece of the frame already fell off.
I have a relative who owns one (I think an early 2000 model) that thing stayed in the shop almost as much as it did on the road. If I recall, most of it was electrical problems, but I think it did have a few mechanical issues as well. They don’t make them like they used to.
my 1999, 2003, 2005 have been great to me.
I have a Jeep CJ5, 134 Xi four cylinder, three speed stick, hi-lo range 4x4. It runs great. I’m not sure of the miles but probably about 50K. No major problems. But, it’s a 1970. So that says a lot.
I'll say on my WK I went through 4 calipers and lines before I got a good one with the same issue. I love my WK2s though I have had 2 and they have been wonderful!
Still have my 2006 Jeep Commander here in Iowa. Drive it through all 4 seasons.
My moms grand cherokees engine just died today with 70k miles
Must have been a rental previously
She bought it brand new
@@ThatGuy-bj3wy
That's crazy
@MrKushert yeah she loves it. She's going to put a new engine in it lol.
My 1999 Cherokee Sport was a great car. I would still be driving it today if my daughter hadn't wrecked it.
Solid Jeep with the 4.0.
Might as well be a different company though. A lot has happened in the last 20 years
Hope she’s ok
My God Scotty my 22 year old Chevy S10 has No Rust & still has the original factory Undercoating The only thing I've undercoated is the Wheel Wells
Old or dirty brake fluid also causes the calipers to stick to the wheels. It happened to mine.
One of my neighbors recently bought a brand new 2023 jeep grand cherokee, he already had to bring in bc it was on the rear coil recall list. He also said "service shifter" light came on.
Our neighbors have a '18 and it's been sitting already forever.
The shaking can be caused by the abs sensor at that wheel, any good mechanic with a scan tool with ABS capability can pull the codes and determine which sensor went bad. I had this issue on my Challenger and 2 shop could not determine the issue, so I bought my own obdb2 scanner and within 5 minutes knew what the issue was.
Thanks
Why waste your time, ab sensors fall off all the time.....it's the caliper this time
ABS sensor failure does not cause shaking. It is a sensor and does not contribute to the feel or stability of the car. It is a passive sensor.
Bad bearings cause shaking and those trip out the ABS wheel speed sensor.
What a hunka ____!
Thanks for the heads up and I'll do the brake job myself like I have for every other car for the past 30 freaking years lol. Replace those tie rods, ball joints, and control arm bushings lmbo.
My guess is the brake line is causing the sticking. Probably the flexible line from the caliper to the metal line. I would pull that off first and see if you can blow thru it.
I have a 2013 grand Cherokee, 5.7 hemi. Has 189k miles on it and still going. I did have two water pumps replaced along with my ac compressor, and ac condenser. Had entire suspension replaced just due to high mileage. Needs a new back up camera as it has stopped working. Everything else seems to be okay so far. But it is expensive to keep maintaining. Planning on getting a Lexus or Toyota soon.
The death wobble is a registered trademark of Jeep. Haha. Love all my Jeeps and will keep buying them. I think this video should be more like if you live in the north east, this is what happens when you don’t use fluid film…
I dknt use fluid film.....you dont need to...
You need to go to a brushless car wash a couple times a week...wash the body and underbody..... my hondas and fords have never rusted out..and I live in NH...we have plenty of snow in th winter. and salt..my cars and trucks have all had 300k and never rusted out...i or more when I sold them still running perfect
Replace the rubber break hose. They can develop an almost check valve in the hose as it breaks down and gets flaky inside. I bet that would fix the hanging caliper.
Death wobble is usually a tracking bar or a number of suspension components with wear making a compound problem. It can also be a bad alignment or out of balance tire. You typically see the problem on lifted vehicles because it jacks the steering geometry. While i agree this vehicle has a break issue breaks will not cause death wobble.
Scotty, determining if the caliper is sticking is easy. I had the RF caliper on my '08 Wrangler stick. I've owned it for 15 years, so age related stuff is expected. Arriving home, I smelled overheated brakes. I went into my toolbox and grabbed my IR thermometer. I pointed it at the RF rotor. 365° F. Then, I checked the LF rotor. 186° F. I then checked the rears. 146° F and 144° F. I replaced the RF caliper, both rotors and pads. Why rotors? Because the right front rotor had been overheated. Changed both. This isn't the first Jeep caliper to freeze up. The LF froze two years prior. Common issue. Drive it aroubd for 15 minutes then check rotor temps. A frozen rotor will be much hotter than the opposite side.
Right. I also check the temp of my rear differential when i tow something. They can overheat too on any rear wheel drive truck.
Yeah did you here the part when he said it was probably NOT the rotor and caliper but the master cylinder brake lines, or antilock system ,etc????? Calipers go bad when the rubber seals fail, which was 100% NOT the problem with this JEEP.. Take off the smarty pants.
Change that rubber brake line going from the caliper to the do the chassis where it connects to the meadowline.
The super simple thing to do when a brake is actually dragging is to crack the bleeder screw open. If it instantly frees up it is not a caliper, stuck brake pins, or seized brake pads. If it starts to turn free right away, I usually suspect the brake caliper hose as defective. There are other things that can go wrong, but it is very rare that it is something other than a hose or a caliper when you can tell a brake is sticking on. My guess is that millions of people are not getting good gas mileage, because they have some form of brake drag and any overheated brake pad reduces the ability to stop as good as it should..
I love Scotty, but when he is not a fan of something, he'll continue to tear into it, big time!
If he were to bring 90% of the vehicles in the northwest, they will all look the same as this 11 Jeep.
It was the repair shop that needs to be under scrutiny.
No don't defend the garbage Chrysler quality, nothing they make is reliable nowadays.
Yes.....but these aren't built that well.....
Fluid doesn’t “suck” calipers back. Typically it’s dirty slide pins. I’d remove slide pins, completely clean and regrease, and reassemble. That should remedy.
9:55 agree with dry guide pins causing sticking calipers, but this year/model had a recall for corroded power brake booster housing.
I have a Jeep Liberty 2003 limited edition my blinker light turn signal goes too fast I replaced all the housing on the front right Maybe I got a short in it???? Can you PLEASE tell me how to fix it😢 🙏🙏🙏 thank you so much!!
Thankfully I just sold the Jeep Wrangler that I had for 10 years. For jeeps to manufacture a product for 70+ years AND they still did not get it right. Of all the cars I’ve owned it was the biggest money pit! The happiest day was when I sold it!
I’ve had six of them. Only death wobble on one of them. New track bar , bushings and an old man emu steering stabilizer fixed it
It's an abs issue. I've seen this before. Use a double female connector on the line in and the line out that goes to that wheel. Also plug the holes in the abs unit. Then try it.. Then you will know.
Yo Scotty!!! I've seen this on a ford tempo. The problem was aluminum caliper assemblies. it swells and the caliper can't retract. IF you hoes down the caliper with water, it will fix it until it heats up again. Check it with a magnet.
If it was a Toyota Scotty would be saying, what do you expect for 10 years? 😂😂😂
Scotty has talked about the Tacoma frame rot for yrs..so not really true
I have a 2010 tacoma in MA that is nearly rust free. I have it rustproofed by Krown every fall.
You mean 20 . Not 10
@janetairlines1351 that's because you took good care of it. Most cars if you take good care of it they will last
@@APR702exactly
Come on Scotty. It doesn't have death wobble. It has IFS suspension. Death wobble was the solid axle issue of the older jeeps.
Stop being a TROLL
@@MrRatchaphruek Umm, what?
Had something similar on a 2012 Ford F-150. Drivers side caliper was locking up. Replaced the caliper. Same thing. Figured we got a bad part and got another caliper. Same thing. Turned out it was the flex brake line going to the caliper. Flex line looked fine. But after finding someone else with a similar problem we took a chance. That was it. Makes no sense to me.
So when your calipers keep failing you have to take a look at those rubber hoses that go to each caliper. The rubber swells inside and acts like a check valve. Every time you press the pedal it pushes fluid through that "check valve" and keeps the pads pressing against that rotor. So the appearance is the caliper is bad but in reality it's the rubber line that needs replaced. Plus it's a good idea to flush out that old fluid.
I have a 97 Jeep wrangler. I’ve basically replaced most parts twice. Now it runs good
just show's ya most newer vehicles are disposable
What year was this black jeep and what are the mileage 😮
I have a 99 jeep wrangler Sahara. Quarter million miles. Only replaced transfer case and brakes. Too bad the frame rusted out
If you change calipers… change the brake hoses too.
Learned that the hard way…. 2006 Charger had a similar issue.
The wheel is burned from heat… Nice job Jeep!
Are you stupido. The mechanic didnt fix that well. See the video again..
Replace the brake hose and caliper at same time. Inside of brake hose can collapse during a sudden emergency stop.
My Jeep Liberty driver side tire snapped off at the joint. Luckily I was only going about 10 -15 mph.I took it in for a rubbing sound I would hear sometimes coming from that area. None of the mechanics found it.
Same here I love our Jeep never had any issues
Obviously Scotty is mad at Stellantis right now as something has set him off in these last two POS vidieos!
um... 50+ yrs of low quality
nice spooktober video, the amount of rust is truly frightening
Scotty, how’s the new mailbox?
Yep, time to buy another '94 Celica! 🙂
A brake hose with deteriorate inside and cause a flapper valve it will only let fluid go one way. Very common
No matter what always replace the caliper hoses when you replace calipers. I had same problem on a ford and it ended up being the hose was bad.
I once worked on a Ford Econoline van with a sticky caliper. Turned out to be a bad brake rubber hose going to the caliper.