NRG Climbing | Starry 5.12a 7a+
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- Starry, 5.12a, New River Gorge, WVA
Watch as Mary Dorman gracefully tackles Starry (5.12a) in this artistic film set in the New River Gorge.
Doug Reed completed the first ascent of Starry (5.12a) and as with many of his first ascents it quickly became an area classic! This route has everything you want to break into the 12’s, from a leisurely start with comfortable climbing which progresses to more challenging technical climbing as you approach the crux. The test of this route is maintaining strength to pull a big move over a bulge, and then powering through the crux. At the crux you have to step into a specific body position from two small holds, then make a tall pull to a crimp above a completely blank section. Once through this, victory jugs to the chains!
If you’re looking to break into a new grade (5.12), give this route a try and let us know in the comments what you think!
If you’ve already climbed or are currently working on starry let us know your favorite part or biggest challenge.
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An instant classic psych video, just like all the others. Great job!
💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼 psyched to hear that!
That was great. Beautiful place, good climbing and perfect cinematography.
The holy trinity of a good climbing video 😂
once again a great video... great climb(er)... great sound and editing... please more
We got you 😎
Great video! The NRG is amazing!! I had the opportunity to visit earlier this year and was blown away by the quality of the Nuttall sandstone. I climbed a handful of Doug Reed routes and was so inspired by his vision and execution so early in the sport climbing game ( it seems like he was very active in 1991 and 1993!!). As a fellow developer for nearly three decades, I have my heroes, Doug ranks at the top of the list. Thanks for the window into one of his classics.
Hey Mike! Couldn’t agree more about Doug’s routes. So many incredible classics and staples for the grades. So cool that you develop! Where are you developing?
Your videos are amazing, they always get me so psyched! I'll have to try this one next time I'm at the new!
Wow that’s so great to hear! A lot of work goes into it 💪🏼 so glad to hear you connect with them. Starry is a classic 5.12 - not incredibly technical, just an energy burner!! You’ll have to try it out.
@@brothersclimbing6948 I got back to the new this past week and sent Starry today! Such a fun climb
I love all your videos, works of art! Keep making these! (Can I be in one?)
Thanks so much!! Shoot is a DM with a classic climb you think would be a good fit for us.
@@brothersclimbing6948 No idea how to DM on RUclips, but some potential great NRG classics that would get alot of eyes would be Puppy Chow (12c), Fall Line (12b), and Preparation H (12a) sort of 3 different styles, all mega classics, all potentially best of their respective grade anywhere in the region, all in beautiful or grandiose settings, and featuring a range of styles.
@@brothersclimbing6948 Oh and I can't forget Legacy, 11a. Undeniably the best route of its grade, probably in the country.
One of my favorites in the area! How do you manage to capture the audio so well?
Thank you. Audio was my first love so I’ve got equal attention and money into the audio system as I do video. We mic our climbers and use shotgun mics on cameras.
Looks like a fun climb! Nice camerawork
Thank you! Always trying to match beauty - cinematography to climb