Your videos are so awesome dude! I'm an aspiring trad dad and am learning a lot by watching your techniques and placements. Your videos also give me so much anxiety 😂
It is amazing how my memory of the climb has changed over so many years. Thank you so much for doing this one and I'm glad you enjoyed it... and is that a new record for passive pro in a single pitch for you?? Next stop... Springboard at Fern
Lowering is the preferred ethic at the New. The guidebooks say so, Mountain Project says so, and anyone you ask there says so. It's safer and faster. NRAC is a great organization and maintains the anchors through donations and volunteer effort.
@@kenuck4560 I donate to and volunteer with NRAC regularly. Drilling (for bolting, including anchor and bolt replacement) is by NPS permit only, and is done by a few permit-holding NRAC members. Rings and quicklinks are easily replaced by anyone and yes, I have replaced a few of those myself.
@@kenuck4560 Lowering off fixed gear is actually preferred and encouraged by lots of route setters nowadays, they make that very clear in many guidebooks and websites. Of course it’s always great to donate to local organizations for maintaining this gear and also checking on it ourselves, but most agree it’s safer to lower on single pitch than rapping every time.
Same at the Red. Lower unless otherwise necessary to rap. Gotta say, I've seen a lot more AAC accident reports based on rappelling accident rather than anchor failure. So, I'll replace a few links and rings to save lives. Rapping has its place sometimes, depending on the situation, but the old adage perpetuated by some climbers of "always rap to clean" needs to go away.
that green totem placement is what dreams are made of
Hello from Spain! Im new at climbing and this videos motivate me a lot to continue with my training, thank you so much for sharing your climbs!
Well done! This and Springboard are the best 5.10 cracks at the New imo
Thanks much for showing complete anchor setup. Helps greatly being new to trad watching it done.
Your videos are so awesome dude! I'm an aspiring trad dad and am learning a lot by watching your techniques and placements. Your videos also give me so much anxiety 😂
It is amazing how my memory of the climb has changed over so many years. Thank you so much for doing this one and I'm glad you enjoyed it... and is that a new record for passive pro in a single pitch for you?? Next stop... Springboard at Fern
lol funny you mention that cause I hardly ever place nuts and I was spotting nut placements left and right
Such a good climb! The dihedral on the left is also full-value!
Sweet man! Looks like a really good line
LOL Im even using the same way to clean! :D
Do triple treat next!
Wow, using nuts and no extended draws? Who are you? Hahaha
or Rod Sterling Crack... nice video
Thank you!
Tell Mitch Myles said hi!
DON'T LOWER OFF FIXED GEAR!!! That's why you have an ATC
Lowering is the preferred ethic at the New. The guidebooks say so, Mountain Project says so, and anyone you ask there says so. It's safer and faster. NRAC is a great organization and maintains the anchors through donations and volunteer effort.
@@OojimaflipThingummy Did you buy the anchors and did you put them up?
@@kenuck4560 I donate to and volunteer with NRAC regularly. Drilling (for bolting, including anchor and bolt replacement) is by NPS permit only, and is done by a few permit-holding NRAC members. Rings and quicklinks are easily replaced by anyone and yes, I have replaced a few of those myself.
@@kenuck4560 Lowering off fixed gear is actually preferred and encouraged by lots of route setters nowadays, they make that very clear in many guidebooks and websites. Of course it’s always great to donate to local organizations for maintaining this gear and also checking on it ourselves, but most agree it’s safer to lower on single pitch than rapping every time.
Same at the Red. Lower unless otherwise necessary to rap. Gotta say, I've seen a lot more AAC accident reports based on rappelling accident rather than anchor failure. So, I'll replace a few links and rings to save lives. Rapping has its place sometimes, depending on the situation, but the old adage perpetuated by some climbers of "always rap to clean" needs to go away.