Nice work, and nice video...keep it up! My only tip would be to try and reduce the amount of exposed/stripped wire on those internal conductors. By keeping those wires as insulated as possible, you'll be less prone to short circuits and lessen your risk of issues :)
Super clean build there! looks great. Just getting into the custom mechanical scene myself (GK64XS) so this has definitely come in handy. Got yourself another subscriber and keep up the good work bud! :-)
When I was looking at the instructions for soldering the usb connectors, they said I didn’t need to solder the drain wire so I figured I could just leave it for the aviator connector as well since there’s also a 4 pin variant. If you do choose not to solder it like me, I’d recommend you also heatshrink it
Awesome tutorial! So the 5th pin on the aviator is fine to leave blank hey? Was trying to find an answer for that. Also, do you need to leave that additional wire in the cables, or can you just snip that off?
Yeah so I'm pretty sure the 5th pin is for ground and I think it should be ok to leave it The wire only has 4 cables so you don't need to snip anything off
Hey your video is helping me out with my zap cable project so thanks, but for the Drain Cable wire looks like you just left it on there, could I just cut that off since it will be no use?
beautiful video and excellent work but I m wondering what is the point of having a very bulky cable? it has a very high turning radius and that connector in between why did you add it? what is the point of view here? I m new to this kind of thing.
Lol this cable is purely for aesthetics only. It serves no real functional purpose besides just looking cool. You can also choose different connectors if you want something less bulky like a YC-8 or a LEMO connector.
The metal shielding also known as the drain wire doesn’t actually need to be soldered if it’s just for a keyboard. Using it for stuff like audio is a different story. Other than that, not needed for keyboards as it’s used to drain interference and static.
Thanks for the video, may use this as a reference to create an aviator port and cable for a fightstick
Nice work, and nice video...keep it up! My only tip would be to try and reduce the amount of exposed/stripped wire on those internal conductors. By keeping those wires as insulated as possible, you'll be less prone to short circuits and lessen your risk of issues :)
I have a question, what's the difference between 5 pins and 4 pins aviator?🤔
seriously?
You are awesome man
No u
Lol the Peele sweating gif
:P
Super clean build there! looks great. Just getting into the custom mechanical scene myself (GK64XS) so this has definitely come in handy. Got yourself another subscriber and keep up the good work bud! :-)
Thanks for the sub and the nice words! Really appreciate it!
Was there a reason why you didnt solder the drain wire/shield portion? On that step on my build currently..
When I was looking at the instructions for soldering the usb connectors, they said I didn’t need to solder the drain wire so I figured I could just leave it for the aviator connector as well since there’s also a 4 pin variant. If you do choose not to solder it like me, I’d recommend you also heatshrink it
@@AustinV Thanks man, subbed.
@@AC-sd7cw Thanks! Appreciate the sub!
Awesome tutorial! So the 5th pin on the aviator is fine to leave blank hey? Was trying to find an answer for that. Also, do you need to leave that additional wire in the cables, or can you just snip that off?
Yeah so I'm pretty sure the 5th pin is for ground and I think it should be ok to leave it
The wire only has 4 cables so you don't need to snip anything off
@@AustinV no, the black wire is ground, I think the 5th pin is for that housing stuff
Hey your video is helping me out with my zap cable project so thanks, but for the Drain Cable wire looks like you just left it on there, could I just cut that off since it will be no use?
Are you gonna try to coil it in future?
Nah I’m personally not a big fan of coils so just gonna leave it as is
beautiful video and excellent work but I m wondering what is the point of having a very bulky cable? it has a very high turning radius and that connector in between why did you add it? what is the point of view here? I m new to this kind of thing.
Lol this cable is purely for aesthetics only. It serves no real functional purpose besides just looking cool. You can also choose different connectors if you want something less bulky like a YC-8 or a LEMO connector.
@@AustinV ohh okey, but it looks really good. Thank you again for the answer.
@@aydngulgun8936 Thanks!
@AustinV can you actually use that cable with a aviation headset on a pc now?
What keyboard is that, that you used to test your cable on?
is this a 2.0 or 3.0 cable?
Afaik they're USB 3.0, but you might want to check the Zap Cables site just to be sure
It's 2.0 spec, 3.0 has many more wires.
11:43 your diagram shows the extra pin is used for the shielding-ground but you didn't use it, why?
The metal shielding also known as the drain wire doesn’t actually need to be soldered if it’s just for a keyboard. Using it for stuff like audio is a different story. Other than that, not needed for keyboards as it’s used to drain interference and static.
For best practice and if you have 5 pin connectors, you might as well use it.
First
i hope all chinese factory have workers like you