Centrifugal clutches are only to allow a combustion engine to idle and have the output decoupled, when the engine is spinning above the clutch's grip RPM it will be coupled, no matter if it's accelerating, keeping the same speed or engine braking. Those clutches are found in chainsaws and a lot of off-road vehicles, also on Can-Am Spyders (3 wheeled motorcycle, aka road snowmobile), but only those with the electronic transmission.
Many like to use it in hybrid systems as if the engine is decoupled from the output then the e motors can drive it or the engine and electric motors can cohesively run.
@@nerfgodbigguy1405 in gearblocks with digital input, sure, but on a real vehicle, it's just a waste heat generator that is harder to control than the electric motor itself
@@RustTree0915 not really, for a (real) centrifugal clutch to disengage, it would need the engine's output to nearly stop and since it is engaged to the wheels, they too would have to stop for a brief moment before they are decoupled and would allow the vehicle to coast. On a real vehicle, the clutch would be calibrated such that the engaging RPM is just a little above the idle RPM and get fully engaged in
@JF743 why would the wheels need to stop, the speed of the output doesn't effect the clutch that's the point, unless the clutch is engaged the output spins freely, and electric engines (unless programmed not to ) do literally stop completely when not running. Like unless it gets an input it spins 😅 Like still centrifugal clutches aren't perfect for full sized cars coz they can only handle a certain level of torque/load before they slip, just due to the nature of them.
@@Atherax the centrifugal clutch does not depend on the engine accelerating, it depends on the engine spinning which it still does as long as the wheels are spinning (engine braking). No engine on a full scale vehicle is strong enough to stop itself instantly or even overcome tire grip, brakes can, but usually don't because of ABS, that's why you need to stop before you can coast. Electric motors irl never need a clutch, the only exception is on some RC cars with brushless motors as the torque of the motor is enough to annihilate plastic gears so the output shaft is fitted with a "clutch". That one is always engaged and does not slip during smooth driving, only during extreme acceleration or deceleration. If it's too tight, it'll destroy the gears, if it's too loose it'll scream and burn itself down really quickly. RC car motors are no joke, they pack a huge amount of power for their size, I've had a bearing seized up and barely felt it, meanwhile it melted the plastic around it and welded itself to the cars chassis.
that's AWESOME !!! I'd love to see front suspensions next, with FWD/AWD, how to make 3 axis of adjustments (camber caster toe) and all the types of links ( double wishbone, mcPherson, solid axle, and all), it would be so cool !!
Thanks for introducing me to this game. Started with modifying the base models, now I just made a working fwd chassis with transversely mounted motor, 4 speed gearbox and a differential.
The centrifugal clutch can make you faster, and since you did the exact opposite than what you need to, I'll tell you what you need: 1- set the dissingague higher and start to accelerate sooner, the response time will be a lot worse, but the engine will be able to get up to speed and accelerate faster. (600rpm should be good) 2-set the fully engague rpm lower, so that you can get the full torque from the engine sooner. (1500rpm should work) 3-set the clutch's torque just above the motor's max torque. You don't want a bump to create a speed surge in the motor, since that can spin you out (20% over the motor works nice on go-karts). 4-lower the brakes' torque, this depends on the wheels' grip, so just play around 'till you find something that works
1. Sick backflip bro! 2. I do beleive looking at an automatic transmission may be a very short video. It basically depends on whether you can even control stuff with them. Given the lack of logic it'd also become a kinda bulky system if you can, not that that matters all that much. 3. I think looking at different suspension setups will be the most fun of all. Building double wishbones, 3-link, 4-link, 3-link + panhard, adding in anti-rollbars, playing with wishbone and link length, suspension placement, etc., etc.
I'd like to see you use a wheel/ gaspedal setup for this type of game. I think you could really fine-tune the game/ your build with the ability to fine tune your inputs.
Found this game through your videos, thanks , it has become instantly one of my favourite games ever. I went experimenting with building a car of my own and came up with a few designs, specifically I made an alternative intermittent gear engine design that mimics the way a traditional piston engine delivers torque and found that it increased my flywheel rpm from 1200 to 3500. I published the design to the workshop and highly recommend you check out my design or even improve upon it or use it in one of your future projects. It’s called “ Intermittent 8 “ on the workshop and seems fairly complex at first but once you understand the physics behind it it’s quite simple. I’ll be working on my own vehicle using this design as well as improving and adapting the engine for different configurations/layouts Anyway, thanks for the initial inspiration and keep up the content
ok, so as someone who has built a drift car in gearblocks you can use the "steering wheel" part to have automatic countersteer. HOWEVER, and this is the biggest caviat to using those things, your input is a mere sugestion, you cant make it turn if the game decides it aint turning, now, another thing to note, i made a RWD with a basic mcpherson strut style of suspension, and i did copy the geometry from another person, but its so dead simple and it just works. another thing, tire settings are EVERYTHING front/rear bias (set by having the front and rear traction settings different) steering traction and straight line traction will effect how the drifting works
So, you probably already know, but I'll mention it anyway. For Ackermann geometry steering, the steering joint pivot needs to sit along a line that ends up making a triangle with a single point at the rear axle (at center rest). While turning that point will shift along a circle as the two legs cross each other across different points. With the pivot directly inline with the ball joint, you don't have two different circles at the front wheels. Control key for the diff can give you the Subi variable lockable diff. You could add a toggle clutch between two diffs to make a pony axle lockable low range guy too.
The biggest thing centrifugal clutches are for is to allow you to use a higher gear ratio and not get completley stuck when accelerating. Especially for engines that need to get to a few thousand rpm to start generating enough power/torque to get moving it allows the engine to spin to that speed before meeting resistance. You could just use a really short first gear so that at basically a standstill you can easily spin the motor to the req rpm but you lose heaps of top end so its not worth it. Like you say its used on snowmobiles, but also mopeds, if u ever drive one u will be able to feel the motor having to spin to like 2-3k rpm before it starts moving the bike but then it will stay at that rpm for ages until the bike actually matches that speed and rpms increase again or gear changes, almost a bit like a cvt making the confusion understandable. If you want to use it in gear blocks it would be best for this purpose where u set engage rpm to about 1000 so clutch is only fully engaged when motor is at peak power output so you can have a higher first gear for more top end while having the same or even better acceleration.
Hey guy, I love to see you getting into this game some more! But I just have to say, there are a few things I noticed you could've done in a better / easier way :p 8:19 You do not need a half block for this; the ring gears (and the bevel gears) have "Lo" and "Hi" versions for this exact problem. In your case, you could've just extended the driveshaft one block, and use a Lo gear. 9:06 / 22:48 You can use a cylinder block for this instead, it can be made smaller, plus it just overall looks better without the hole in the middle. 16:52 I believe "turning on the diff" completely unlocks it, so in your case with a fully open differential, it does nothing :p 19:14 Those wheels have built-in brakes, I don't know if you knew that already and just wanted to use external ones for fun, but they do. 19:39 In this menu you can click the file button on the bottom left to copy the part's settings, then use the clipboard button to paste it to whatever other part you select; you don't need to set everything manually! BTW, I would advise putting some positive caster on the front wheels, and connecting them with a steering wheel instead of a servo motor. This can essentially make the steering limit itself at higher speeds, reducing understeer. It can also automatically countersteer if you oversteer. You can put caster on the steering easily by connecting the bottom of steering knuckle with a ball joint, then on the top of it with another ball joint, but instead have that joint 1 block behind the rotation point of the lower one. Most importantly though. Keep playing this game! It's awesome and I'm glad to see you like it too :D
by the way, centrifugal clutch also isn't an input smoother. that would be a slipper clutch lol. centrifugal clutch is just a way to get an automatic clutch so when you come to a stop, your engine doesn't die from being directed connected to the drive wheels. but as soon as rpm's suffice, the clutch shoes move outwards and make contact with the bell. basically a reverse drum brake 4wheelers usually are like motorcycles, so manual hand clutch and a sequential transmission edit: I guess a torque converter without lockout could be considered an input smoother of sorts, but even that's a fluid clutch / torque multiplier
fun fact: wheels now have integrated brakes that dont need to be connected to the chassis. Make sure to turn the wheels on, btw. Due to me not using the 8x2 wheels in my builds for some reason, i dont know if its true for that one. AFAIK there is no automation. Its all manual for the player to control
And again kAN, you are confused at 11:38 Understeer mean car will continue going straight in turn, while oversteer is when car rear axle slides out Car need to oversteer to drift, or you need to help it with weight transfer (sudden brake while going into turn to push weight on front axle to get more grip and make it oversteer temporarily) More info: Car/truck/racing wheels doesn't need additional brakes, they have in build brake that slows down nearest rotational joint All inputs have smoothing by default, it makes it slowly apply the brake/turn/lock diff, with setting it to 0 you can make more aggressive acceleration/braking/steering for racing cars Also full forward/backward grip will help to not skid tires, while sideways grip should be used to improve stability, too high sideways grip can make car roll to side The clutch is mostly useless on electric cars, because you can set braking torque of motor, it will be more useful in next update when they add combustion engines, use motor settings instead of clutch
Centrifugal clutches are mounted directly on the motor of an gokart they function as as a flywhell a gear wich is engaged to the satrtermotor an automatic clutch and to let it idle without it being engaged to the driveshaft
Hey kan wanted to say thanks for introducing me to this game ive been enjoying it alot and have already uploaded a 3 speed automatic transmission using centrifugal clutches and a car built as close to a rc car on the workshop already anyways just eanted to say thanks and have been watching awhile 😁
I don't fully remember, but I believe if you put your steering rack slightly behind the center line for your pivot joint on your steering knuckle you can actually adjust the Ackerman angle between the two wheels so you're inside wheel will turn sharper than your outside one an increase drivability in cornering
In the factory driving big dump trucks. A smaller wheel base meaning, the length of distance between the back and front wheel, will create tighter turns but a more unstable the taller the build.
Rather than use a centrifugal clutch, with an electric motor you can probably just reduce the torque in the motor configuration to get the same effect of smoother acceleration.
I do think most atvs and utvs do use a snowmobile style CVT setup, the Engine powers a 2 speed manual transmission though a CVT clutch. our old arctic cat atv had a manual gearbox like a tractor. clutch, set the gear, and go! Yamaha i think has a car style shiftable manual in their sporty UTV. might even have paddle shifter! i haven't looked into that one for a few years though. and Honda's the wierdo here with full automatic geared transmissions.
That’s what I was thinking, although it’s still somewhat useless for that with electric motors. One thing I know they are used for IRL is remote control helicopters with liquid fuel engines, so maybe it is a teaser for that?
Lower the fully engaged rpm, to say 750 then instead of no longer slipping at 2k rpm it will engage at 750 so halfway through your revs you will have full power
I'm just going to tell you, the sensors, motors, etc. can only connect to a LCD to display information. they *can not* connect to a motor, linear actuator, servo, or stepper
Using the motor to break with an open diff doesn't really act as a break all the time. That is because if the shaft was entirely fixed it means the wheels would rotate in opposite directions.
Alright , after watching this ... i made a 3 speed automatic transmission using centrifugal clutches. with a small electric motor set to max 1000rpm and 500 torque , it reached 188kph / 117mph according to in game speedometer readings on the flat void map
You can make same setup on the front as well using only 1 electric motor and single driveshaft from forward toward rear, slap differentials forward and rear and also breaks on all 4 wheels. I think it will be even better that way :D And, yes, put some weight as well :D
"Underslidey" sounds like something a baby does when crawling. At least your brain glitch wasn't as bad as mine in a 4th or 5th grade history paper... Two hand-written pages where every time I meant to use "king", I instead spelled "kink"; that was also when I only knew of the "kink in the hose" definition, so it was more embarrassing to think about several years later after leaning of the adult version... Oh and yes, the teacher counted every single one against my grade, which dropped what would've been a low-mid A down to a very low B or high C...
That's not really how you should use a centrifugal clutch. Your're basically converting it into a Torque converter without the added torque the torque converter gives. That's supposed to be used like in chainsaw's, that also use centrifugal clutches. It's just to let the car come to a stop without the engine getting to 0 RPM. Basically the minimum RPM you want your engine to start making the car move. by doing what you did, you are just limiting the amount of power the engine has
25:42 Audi Quatro and skoda superb 4x4 uses DSG gearbox most of cars from 2000s or even 2010 uses CVT as gearbox cuz it is smooth and nice ( talking about automatic only )but CVT's are mostly unrealible expensive to maintance and not the best option at moment.
![I Tried To Create a Supersonic Gearbox [Screw Drivers]](/img/1.gif)
What part of the vehicle should we work on next? My plan is to slowly build up a fully functioning chassis one component at a time!
Definitely try suspension next.
u do know u dont need a battery to use the stuff
you should make it like a truck with a trailer and see how much Whight it can pull. with a open differential and with a high tuarq
Suspension next, but the front needs to allow for 4wd upgrade in the future
I agree with others saying suspension, could allow for some more focused high speed builds
Centrifugal clutches are only to allow a combustion engine to idle and have the output decoupled, when the engine is spinning above the clutch's grip RPM it will be coupled, no matter if it's accelerating, keeping the same speed or engine braking. Those clutches are found in chainsaws and a lot of off-road vehicles, also on Can-Am Spyders (3 wheeled motorcycle, aka road snowmobile), but only those with the electronic transmission.
Many like to use it in hybrid systems as if the engine is decoupled from the output then the e motors can drive it or the engine and electric motors can cohesively run.
@@nerfgodbigguy1405 in gearblocks with digital input, sure, but on a real vehicle, it's just a waste heat generator that is harder to control than the electric motor itself
@@RustTree0915 not really, for a (real) centrifugal clutch to disengage, it would need the engine's output to nearly stop and since it is engaged to the wheels, they too would have to stop for a brief moment before they are decoupled and would allow the vehicle to coast. On a real vehicle, the clutch would be calibrated such that the engaging RPM is just a little above the idle RPM and get fully engaged in
@JF743 why would the wheels need to stop, the speed of the output doesn't effect the clutch that's the point, unless the clutch is engaged the output spins freely, and electric engines (unless programmed not to ) do literally stop completely when not running.
Like unless it gets an input it spins 😅
Like still centrifugal clutches aren't perfect for full sized cars coz they can only handle a certain level of torque/load before they slip, just due to the nature of them.
@@Atherax the centrifugal clutch does not depend on the engine accelerating, it depends on the engine spinning which it still does as long as the wheels are spinning (engine braking). No engine on a full scale vehicle is strong enough to stop itself instantly or even overcome tire grip, brakes can, but usually don't because of ABS, that's why you need to stop before you can coast.
Electric motors irl never need a clutch, the only exception is on some RC cars with brushless motors as the torque of the motor is enough to annihilate plastic gears so the output shaft is fitted with a "clutch". That one is always engaged and does not slip during smooth driving, only during extreme acceleration or deceleration. If it's too tight, it'll destroy the gears, if it's too loose it'll scream and burn itself down really quickly. RC car motors are no joke, they pack a huge amount of power for their size, I've had a bearing seized up and barely felt it, meanwhile it melted the plastic around it and welded itself to the cars chassis.
that's AWESOME !!!
I'd love to see front suspensions next, with FWD/AWD, how to make 3 axis of adjustments (camber caster toe) and all the types of links ( double wishbone, mcPherson, solid axle, and all), it would be so cool !!
I do wonder if kAN's going to fit all of these into one to create the ultimate vehicle creation?
Thanks for introducing me to this game. Started with modifying the base models, now I just made a working fwd chassis with transversely mounted motor, 4 speed gearbox and a differential.
Build a excavator next!
The centrifugal clutch can make you faster, and since you did the exact opposite than what you need to, I'll tell you what you need:
1- set the dissingague higher and start to accelerate sooner, the response time will be a lot worse, but the engine will be able to get up to speed and accelerate faster.
(600rpm should be good)
2-set the fully engague rpm lower, so that you can get the full torque from the engine sooner. (1500rpm should work)
3-set the clutch's torque just above the motor's max torque. You don't want a bump to create a speed surge in the motor, since that can spin you out
(20% over the motor works nice on go-karts).
4-lower the brakes' torque, this depends on the wheels' grip, so just play around 'till you find something that works
1. Sick backflip bro!
2. I do beleive looking at an automatic transmission may be a very short video. It basically depends on whether you can even control stuff with them. Given the lack of logic it'd also become a kinda bulky system if you can, not that that matters all that much.
3. I think looking at different suspension setups will be the most fun of all. Building double wishbones, 3-link, 4-link, 3-link + panhard, adding in anti-rollbars, playing with wishbone and link length, suspension placement, etc., etc.
Auto transmissions are actually not complicated at all in this game, you can use a centrifugal clutch on a gear rack to make gears change at set rpms
You don't need half blocks to make crown gears work, they have hi and lo variants that do that
I can't get them to work it won't let me
I'd like to see you use a wheel/ gaspedal setup for this type of game. I think you could really fine-tune the game/ your build with the ability to fine tune your inputs.
Ooh smart,
I recently did this, the game has a sort of force feedback also
@@sdvtpplbcn that would make it so much better.
Found this game through your videos, thanks , it has become instantly one of my favourite games ever.
I went experimenting with building a car of my own and came up with a few designs, specifically I made an alternative intermittent gear engine design that mimics the way a traditional piston engine delivers torque and found that it increased my flywheel rpm from 1200 to 3500. I published the design to the workshop and highly recommend you check out my design or even improve upon it or use it in one of your future projects.
It’s called “ Intermittent 8 “ on the workshop and seems fairly complex at first but once you understand the physics behind it it’s quite simple. I’ll be working on my own vehicle using this design as well as improving and adapting the engine for different configurations/layouts
Anyway, thanks for the initial inspiration and keep up the content
ok, so as someone who has built a drift car in gearblocks
you can use the "steering wheel" part to have automatic countersteer.
HOWEVER, and this is the biggest caviat to using those things, your input is a mere sugestion, you cant make it turn if the game decides it aint turning,
now, another thing to note, i made a RWD with a basic mcpherson strut style of suspension, and i did copy the geometry from another person, but its so dead simple and it just works.
another thing, tire settings are EVERYTHING
front/rear bias (set by having the front and rear traction settings different) steering traction and straight line traction will effect how the drifting works
So, you probably already know, but I'll mention it anyway. For Ackermann geometry steering, the steering joint pivot needs to sit along a line that ends up making a triangle with a single point at the rear axle (at center rest). While turning that point will shift along a circle as the two legs cross each other across different points. With the pivot directly inline with the ball joint, you don't have two different circles at the front wheels.
Control key for the diff can give you the Subi variable lockable diff. You could add a toggle clutch between two diffs to make a pony axle lockable low range guy too.
The biggest thing centrifugal clutches are for is to allow you to use a higher gear ratio and not get completley stuck when accelerating. Especially for engines that need to get to a few thousand rpm to start generating enough power/torque to get moving it allows the engine to spin to that speed before meeting resistance. You could just use a really short first gear so that at basically a standstill you can easily spin the motor to the req rpm but you lose heaps of top end so its not worth it. Like you say its used on snowmobiles, but also mopeds, if u ever drive one u will be able to feel the motor having to spin to like 2-3k rpm before it starts moving the bike but then it will stay at that rpm for ages until the bike actually matches that speed and rpms increase again or gear changes, almost a bit like a cvt making the confusion understandable.
If you want to use it in gear blocks it would be best for this purpose where u set engage rpm to about 1000 so clutch is only fully engaged when motor is at peak power output so you can have a higher first gear for more top end while having the same or even better acceleration.
Hey guy, I love to see you getting into this game some more! But I just have to say, there are a few things I noticed you could've done in a better / easier way :p
8:19 You do not need a half block for this; the ring gears (and the bevel gears) have "Lo" and "Hi" versions for this exact problem. In your case, you could've just extended the driveshaft one block, and use a Lo gear.
9:06 / 22:48 You can use a cylinder block for this instead, it can be made smaller, plus it just overall looks better without the hole in the middle.
16:52 I believe "turning on the diff" completely unlocks it, so in your case with a fully open differential, it does nothing :p
19:14 Those wheels have built-in brakes, I don't know if you knew that already and just wanted to use external ones for fun, but they do.
19:39 In this menu you can click the file button on the bottom left to copy the part's settings, then use the clipboard button to paste it to whatever other part you select; you don't need to set everything manually!
BTW, I would advise putting some positive caster on the front wheels, and connecting them with a steering wheel instead of a servo motor. This can essentially make the steering limit itself at higher speeds, reducing understeer. It can also automatically countersteer if you oversteer. You can put caster on the steering easily by connecting the bottom of steering knuckle with a ball joint, then on the top of it with another ball joint, but instead have that joint 1 block behind the rotation point of the lower one.
Most importantly though. Keep playing this game! It's awesome and I'm glad to see you like it too :D
6:00 seeing you build the steering, will your "ultimate" car have Ackermann steering?
I lovs this game so much! Thank you for playing and introducing it to me!
Gearblocks and Scrap Mechanic Crashlander. With these two games you make me happy Sir =)
Glad to see more videos on gearblocks after a whole year of not uploading!, jokes aside you have way more to go
This game would truly be peak if they added engines and engine creation
Yeah I can't wait for it 😂
@@Tsuintabo update: They did. It's still pre release but you can build pretty neat stuff with it now
@@Rain_571 yeah I tried it, too bad engines can only rev to 3000, now waiting for 7-8k rev
by the way, centrifugal clutch also isn't an input smoother. that would be a slipper clutch lol. centrifugal clutch is just a way to get an automatic clutch so when you come to a stop, your engine doesn't die from being directed connected to the drive wheels. but as soon as rpm's suffice, the clutch shoes move outwards and make contact with the bell. basically a reverse drum brake
4wheelers usually are like motorcycles, so manual hand clutch and a sequential transmission
edit: I guess a torque converter without lockout could be considered an input smoother of sorts, but even that's a fluid clutch / torque multiplier
fun fact: wheels now have integrated brakes that dont need to be connected to the chassis. Make sure to turn the wheels on, btw. Due to me not using the 8x2 wheels in my builds for some reason, i dont know if its true for that one.
AFAIK there is no automation. Its all manual for the player to control
wheelbase is the center of the front axle to the center of the rear axle. the width is the "track" of the front or rear end.
And again kAN, you are confused at 11:38
Understeer mean car will continue going straight in turn, while oversteer is when car rear axle slides out
Car need to oversteer to drift, or you need to help it with weight transfer
(sudden brake while going into turn to push weight on front axle to get more grip and make it oversteer temporarily)
More info:
Car/truck/racing wheels doesn't need additional brakes, they have in build brake that slows down nearest rotational joint
All inputs have smoothing by default, it makes it slowly apply the brake/turn/lock diff, with setting it to 0 you can make more aggressive acceleration/braking/steering for racing cars
Also full forward/backward grip will help to not skid tires, while sideways grip should be used to improve stability, too high sideways grip can make car roll to side
The clutch is mostly useless on electric cars, because you can set braking torque of motor, it will be more useful in next update when they add combustion engines, use motor settings instead of clutch
Centrifugal clutches are mounted directly on the motor of an gokart they function as as a flywhell a gear wich is engaged to the satrtermotor an automatic clutch and to let it idle without it being engaged to the driveshaft
Omg! i didn't even consider using those clutches for automatic gear changing!! That's briljant! I have to try that!
kAN, wheel base is the length between the front and rear set of wheels. Track width is the distance between the driver and passenger side wheels.
Hey kan wanted to say thanks for introducing me to this game ive been enjoying it alot and have already uploaded a 3 speed automatic transmission using centrifugal clutches and a car built as close to a rc car on the workshop already anyways just eanted to say thanks and have been watching awhile 😁
I don't fully remember, but I believe if you put your steering rack slightly behind the center line for your pivot joint on your steering knuckle you can actually adjust the Ackerman angle between the two wheels so you're inside wheel will turn sharper than your outside one an increase drivability in cornering
1st video in 2024! 🎇
So happy new year, everyone.
If you make the engine disconnect from the wheels while breaking you could keep it at high rpm, thus having insane acceleration afterwards
In the factory driving big dump trucks. A smaller wheel base meaning, the length of distance between the back and front wheel, will create tighter turns but a more unstable the taller the build.
Rather than use a centrifugal clutch, with an electric motor you can probably just reduce the torque in the motor configuration to get the same effect of smoother acceleration.
I do think most atvs and utvs do use a snowmobile style CVT setup, the Engine powers a 2 speed manual transmission though a CVT clutch.
our old arctic cat atv had a manual gearbox like a tractor. clutch, set the gear, and go!
Yamaha i think has a car style shiftable manual in their sporty UTV. might even have paddle shifter! i haven't looked into that one for a few years though.
and Honda's the wierdo here with full automatic geared transmissions.
If you want to make a CVT you might be able to make one with differentials, it sounds crazy but they do work.
Please start showing the builds again I loved the whole process of you building it and talking about what your going to change
The centrifugal clutch as it currently exists in this game could perform the same function as a torque converter in an irl automatic transmission.
That’s what I was thinking, although it’s still somewhat useless for that with electric motors. One thing I know they are used for IRL is remote control helicopters with liquid fuel engines, so maybe it is a teaser for that?
Please do Gearblocks more often!!
Check the banana container on Crashlander when you leave the HQ. and the back of the HQ too.
Jeez that car was so underslidey. Glad things worked out
Lower the fully engaged rpm, to say 750 then instead of no longer slipping at 2k rpm it will engage at 750 so halfway through your revs you will have full power
5:59
Why not have the wheels spin the opposite way for the breaks using the rotation of the axle connected to the wheels
7:53 Flintstone style driving? :D
Moving the brakes to the front would help with the understeer.
I’m glad I watch scrap you’ve become my fav rite RUclipsr no offence to scrap he’s still really good and I still watch him to 😅
Im glad i watch scrap, youve become my favourite youtuber. No offence to scrap, he's also really good and i still watch him too😅 (fixed ur comment)
could be cool to see like 3 or even more those motor being connected to each other with gears for more torque but with same speed
I made a design that kind of uses this, intermittent 8 on workshop
I'm just going to tell you, the sensors, motors, etc. can only connect to a LCD to display information. they *can not* connect to a motor, linear actuator, servo, or stepper
Yet. Logic is on the planned list. Eventually.
It'd be nice to have some kind of variable-weight mass block so you could see how a given setup drives under different loads.
Using the motor to break with an open diff doesn't really act as a break all the time.
That is because if the shaft was entirely fixed it means the wheels would rotate in opposite directions.
Bro is slowly developing his own car. In ten years he's going to be selling the kAN trailmaker sport
Your one of my favorites! Ill just sit and watch your playlists
How do you make suspension work on a driven axle in gearblocks
Alright , after watching this ... i made a 3 speed automatic transmission using centrifugal clutches. with a small electric motor set to max 1000rpm and 500 torque , it reached 188kph / 117mph according to in game speedometer readings on the flat void map
The more videos i watch the more i wanna meet u in person. Drifting rc cars is something i Really wanna do. But I don't have enough money lol.
@kAN Gaming thanks for the videos. i learned more about mechanics from these videos than car channels
is it possible to make more steering angle, ackerman, toe and camber maybe??
You can make same setup on the front as well using only 1 electric motor and single driveshaft from forward toward rear, slap differentials forward and rear and also breaks on all 4 wheels. I think it will be even better that way :D And, yes, put some weight as well :D
i have to be honest Kan, its so un-natural to me to see you using T.F.G.H rather than W.A.S.D keys lmao
i think this game would be great in VR
hey kan the keycard you have in crashlander go to a door in piping room (floor 1)
I been waiting for 4 days on the crash surviver when I'll you do part 4 of it
This series is awesome!
Happy New Year kAN.
1:28 like a bike with gears ok
Given the braking issues…is jerry-rigging your own ABS an option?
You prolly already figured this out, but I’m guessing the toggle on the diff locks it
build like a bear-bones car, but with _everything_ (stearing, gear shifting, breaks, suspension,...)
Hey Kan, search about tyre slip angle. This is one of the reasons the car is so understeering, even with rear diff
Why no one else is playing this game? One video a week is not enough for me.
"Underslidey" sounds like something a baby does when crawling. At least your brain glitch wasn't as bad as mine in a 4th or 5th grade history paper... Two hand-written pages where every time I meant to use "king", I instead spelled "kink"; that was also when I only knew of the "kink in the hose" definition, so it was more embarrassing to think about several years later after leaning of the adult version... Oh and yes, the teacher counted every single one against my grade, which dropped what would've been a low-mid A down to a very low B or high C...
try out replecing the stiring motor with a stering weel
Kan ive been waiting for the eureka for weeks
26:15 That automatic Gearbox idea sounds very feasible.
Comparison between suspension, solid axle, McPherson, double wishbone
Mind blown
Comment one of trying to get kAN to use gear blocks to build Optimus prime (eventually)
I think if you did add suspension to your car it would make it sus because you can’t have suspension without the word SUS 😳
Where u was saying understeer it was over steer and the front wheels were loosing traction
how to i make the axel spin freely
Didn't even do a launch, hold break, and accelerate to get clutch engaged, release break, get a full speed launch
That's not really how you should use a centrifugal clutch. Your're basically converting it into a Torque converter without the added torque the torque converter gives. That's supposed to be used like in chainsaw's, that also use centrifugal clutches. It's just to let the car come to a stop without the engine getting to 0 RPM. Basically the minimum RPM you want your engine to start making the car move. by doing what you did, you are just limiting the amount of power the engine has
man i hope they add gasoline engines
Use my gear based alternative
“Intermittent 8” on the workshop, mimics a piston engine as close as you can in this game with just mechanical force
25:42 Audi Quatro and skoda superb 4x4 uses DSG gearbox most of cars from 2000s or even 2010 uses CVT as gearbox cuz it is smooth and nice ( talking about automatic only )but CVT's are mostly unrealible expensive to maintance and not the best option at moment.
Next episode: piston engine
When I added the differential gear it made my car significantly slower.
I didn't realize i needed to change the main bevel gear to a higher one so i fixed it now.
Work on an advanced steering/suspension system!
where the crashlander episode 😔
comment for support
Are you going to make an entire car?
Did kAN just drop Railroads Online? Or has he not heard about the new update?
Funnily enough, transmissions dont work all that well with electric motors
by pressing 6 it is lowering the slip
wanna see you tackle an AWD
More gearbox!
Why are there no gas engines?
Hey kan, I love your vids, just wondering if you will do your multiplayer survival again-your friend, Hunter
i love your content keep it up
kan, are you an engineer?
Can we bring back zeepkist
Hii i love your videos, love from Croatia
yes kan its very underslidy hahaha
Finally I'm early to a kAN video!