Cupra Born 82 kWh battery calibration part 3
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- Опубликовано: 10 май 2024
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I have seen this happen to my iD4 and did not receive help from my dealership. I have documented how I was able to get my BMS to update to the original function. The BMS does not show the updates state correctly. Like you I have 82 KW with only 77 KW available and my car had a bad battery module. When I received it back it was only showing 67.3 KW. The dealership did not recalibrate the BMS and my range was only about 168 miles. So after a while I talked to a technician who told me to recalibrate the BMS, I had to use the granny charger, but I had to go down to below 5% of charge. I did that and it took 100 hours to reach 100%. it then showed more than 250 miles, actually 286 miles of range. Then I drove the car using about 143kw/100 kM and back to 9%. Then I used the faster charger at home and went to 100%. Then I took it out again at highway speeds using about 231 kW/100 KM. Now it seems normal and I can accurately get to destinations without range anxiety. I can send you some screen shots to verify my journey on this subject. Thanks for all you do. My best on your new family member. Now I am getting over 280 miles in the city. I will test it out on the highway soon.
This is best EV range channel, this channel deserve million Subs.
I think the guy was commenting something similar for Tesla calibration. You drive the car at low state of charge around 10-20% and you let it sleep. Around 4 hours. Then you charge it to 100 % and you let it sleep, approximately 4 hours till it enters that state. Then repeat. The most important thing is both in the low state as well at 100% let the car sleep 2-4 hours or at least till its contactors disengage the HVB. Hope that helps.
Perfect
Relaxing is very importent to calculate the correct soc and capacuty by the BMS
I'm guessing that the time with contactors closed allows the cells to settle at their "open circuit" voltage.
Last summer I gained +500Wh max energy content on a family vacation in our 45kWh pure. It had 42600 on start and raised to 43100 after the trip. I never went below 7-10%, but I charged to 100% several times during the trip. Although there weren't any past module replacement in my case, I just slowly "lost" capacity by sailing between 30-80% with city driving for a very long time. I suspect if there would be any calibration problem with the born, you should have had at least some gain already. By the way, you can get a cell balance histogram in carscanner dashboard (like leafspy) that's what VW is checking for any battery before the 3.2 update to determine if some module is needed to be replaced. (of course, they use their own software, not carscanner)
Björn is collecting bärlauch 😮
I’m getting similar numbers on my Skoda enyaq RS coupe, but Skoda will make a battery test to see if I have any faulty modules, so in two weeks I will know.
My ID4 Pro (2021) as well. So I'm very keen on hearing the end of this...
In German: Bärlauch ❤❤😂😂
Same in slovak :)
Bieslook in Dutch
I don't think you are getting more out of that battery Bjorn. The older MEB 82kWh bateries had huge buffers. My Enyaq iV80 from 2021 had around 72kWh when new and shows similar numbers now after 40k km. Maximum energy content decreased from 77 -> 74kWh and HV battery battery content (useable 100->0%) from 72 to around 69kWh. The newer batteries had a lot more buffer unlocked and came new with around 75kWh useable (100->0%).
Would be interesting to hear what Valdemar has to say about this. Maybe they can find something
In Poland it will be "czosnek niedźwiedzi" and this one growing wild is under protection.
We have HerbalBjörn now :)
Until proven otherwise I think these various calibration procedures are a bunch of myths. Works with laptops and maybe very old EVs, but recent BMS cross references counted amphours to cell voltage continuously and can determine actual capacity even with partial charges or discharges. So over time the claimed capacity aligns with the actual capacity. Worked with various OEM BMS and wrote my own, too.
LFP batteries have trouble with calibration because from 20% to 80% the voltage curve is basically a flat line, so checking the voltage doesn't really work and the BMS's count can drift over time. My Atto 3 recommends draining the battery to under 10% before charging every 6 months so that the BMS gets to see the voltage actually drop and it knows for sure it's at the bottom of the pack.
@@ZurOhki1 Right, but this car isn't LFP
Probably not transferable, but I was struggling with the battery on my phone, stumbled over a tip to completely drain it. It actually took 16 hours at 0% before the phone died. After this the bms was back to normale. Unfortunately, it is not as practical to reach the definitive zero point on a car battery.
For what it’s worth, my ID.4 with 82 kWh battery also never managed to charge above 70 kWh. It did have a faulty module as well that I never got replaced because I sold it right around the time software 3.2 came out.
Got a Model Y LR instead and loving every drive I take :-)
Got a somewhat similar issue on an Audi Q4 e-tron 50. I had to replace a battery module and ever since I am unable to reach the same range I had prior to the battery module dying. It's consistently 8-10% less than I used to get. I've driven about 2500 km since the new module was installed, slow charging to 100% and not recharging before I get close to 0% (as per the dealers instructions). I'm writing down all the stats ;-)
Its kaputt.
But interesting to follow as a Born owner.
You have had more errors in 3 vids than i ever experienced. Have had mine for 1 year and 39000km. Not one error. Winter Charging times is between 130-160kwh and summer is 150-205kwh
Never knew a born without travel assist either. 👌🏻 good vids
Charging times? Or did you mean consumption?
@@bjornnyland i ment peak charging speeds. Our current mixed consumption is 5.9km/kwh. Over the last 1500km on summer tires. We live in Denmark so might be a little Warmer :)
The CUPRA Born has maximum charging speeds of 125kw on the 58kWh battery and 170kw on the 77kWH battery.
Did you hacked the car?
These are the official numbers.
@@xavierStark84No. I had in the summer a peak on vacation of 204/5 ish. But generally i charge higher then 175 in hot summer weather. I have a few pictures where it hit 195+ as i was suprised aswell :)
Its a 77
Björn ist making everything kaputt 😁
Can you check out the new 2024 Porsche Taycan? It has very impressive charging speed and new motors
6:00 a new German word for you: it's called Bärlauch (Bjørn leek 😂)
Do you know if this is more widespread? Could you do random tests of other cupra borns in showrooms or other people you know who have one?
I’m getting one soon so it’d be interesting to know!👍
Is there a software reset a dealer can try? Is it possible to re-install the BMS software?
State of Health (SoH) of the Battery?
So, imagine that the owner was just a regular person with average technical knowledge about the car. They'd be kind of lost. Somewhat clearer and more precise instructions on exactly what to do after the repair, should be given to the customer as a matter of course. Discharge to what level? Charge at what speed, and to what level? Rinse and repeat how many times? Seeing as different makes of car have different battery chemistries and battery management systems, what is the ideal way to do it with a Tesla, might not be the ideal way to do it with a Cupra.
Actually I don‘t agree. This calibration procedure should have been done by the repair shop from my point of view. However it still seems to be kind of kaputt because after one full cycle from 0% till 100% BMS should at least increase those numbers. Strange is the claimed maximum energy content of ~75kwh which is definitely not a static value programmed by the factory. I observed this number on my 62kwh Born and it differs feom time to time.
Totally agree. The importer / dealer has to be more precise…
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Perhaps waiting the 12 hours and fully discharging and charging, and do it two times, it comes to about 72kwh, as you say a fan coment. Then maybe run between 69 - 72 kwh. Nearly 75.5kwh ID.4 in good conditions. Or maybe it isn't battery faulty and it's HVB faulty, because don't get disconnected.
Tesla LFP needs the sleep sessions so BMS balances voltages between cells. Leave the car locked at 0% for few hours. BMS is SO slow for decimal voltage balancing
Balancing is not calibrating.....
It will do both at min. Its BMS, it will do calbration at min and balance at in batt rest / hv disconnected. Just let it sleep at below 10%
Bjørn, any way to force preheating battery on a Born without navigation (Australia version)? Excluding the method of hammering it/multiple acceleration and regenerative braking.
OBD Eleven's HV heater output test can heat the battery, but you have to open the hood to start it. Then restart it manually after every 5min.
only lfp chargin curve helps 0-100% balance cells
Seems there is more wrong because it gets lower not more…
Bjorn, I have the 82 kWh Born and had just checked the capacity on mine... 69450 at 100%. I haven't noticed the range getting any smaller than new... I am wondering whether this is a sort of tuning by Cupra and they increased the buffers? Any other Born 82 kWh owner checked their?
Aha, it means that out of the 82 kWh, about 12 kWh is not available for use. That's quite big.
I don't understand you didn't just executive your plan. Just drive it down to 10 ish, let it sleep for 12 hours and charge up to 100.
The "plan" was not being clear.
Pre heat This car doesent have preheat 10:23 it is the old software isent it.
Did you try to get a balance charge done, some wall boxes don’t support this, you may need to finish off with the ‘granny’ lead.
Hi Bjørn, unfortunately you did it wrong again. You have to let the car rest at a low SoC! (i recommend 5-10% display SoC).
And you can see it at 11:00. The BMS claims 5% Battery-SoC at around 330V and that is wrong. I estimate based on the voltage that the real Battery-SoC is something about 10%. If you have let the car rest for 12 hours i think the voltage would have gone up to 335V because of relaxation. This idle voltage after relaxation is what the BMS needs to determine the "empty point" and the BMS will correct the SoC.
When this has happend you have to charge the car fully up and let it rest again for 12 hours so that the BMS can determine the new "full point" and will then correct the capacity.
You can see it at your ID Buzz Video! There died the 77kWh battery at aroud 311V (=4% SOC) what is correct.
Bjørn has a good point in the video, won't it be damaging to leave the battery at such a low SoC (i e. 5%) for 12h? That is against what manufacturer recommends
@@andrei_dk 12 Hours compared to the lifetime of the battery doesn't really matter. And it is much more bad for NMC-battery to be charged to 100% for a long time than to be stored at 0%. I can really recommend the video "How To Ruin Your Electric Car's Battery" from engineering explained to that topic.
Aside from that: the big problem at 0% SoC is not the storage duration or the time, it is the load or the dynamic at this SoC. This is one reason why you have such a big buffer on the low-side of SoC.
Cell Min and Max?
When I drive my Cupra Born at 100 kph I get around 14.5 kWh/100km. At 110 kph that can go up to 18. I understand weather, wind, temperature can affect that, but the consumption you are getting seems excessive.
Mine has 19" tyres - Bridgestone.
Bärlauch scavenging
Please watch the limiting factor. Single cells need to be balanced when the SoC runs out of balance. ruclips.net/video/Wc4mxcF0NM4/видео.htmlsi=JIGYgo1ZL-EKrKiD
One day you will Brick the battery especially leaving at 100% & 0%
😩 in any event it will definitely shorten the life of the battery.
I shouldn't have listened to the RUclips comments then...
If an owner could break the battery by going under 0%, I think that will consider it to be a very serious bug in the BMS.
If you bypass the BMS signal to stop I agree, but under normal use BMS will raise alert to the rest of the car and stop.
The battery charge values presented to the user are not the actual battery limits for maximum and minimum voltages, beyond which the battery would already degrade significantly. The car will never allow charging to the maximum 4.2 volts or discharging to the minimum 3 volts per cell. If you fully charge the car or leave it discharged overnight, the battery will be a little stressed, but it won't be fatal.
@@pavelblaha5243 I’m waiting for Bjorn to drive until it stops and then refuses to charge. 😩
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