Diagnosing Faulty Drayton Actuator and Replacing Unit
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- Опубликовано: 8 янв 2021
- If you have a boiler fault and want to do some checking yourself before springing for call-out charges, this video may be for you. Specifically, this video covers Actuators.
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So glad this video came up in my first search. Signs something was up started when my Wilo pump remained on randomly for hours after the timer shut off, so I would switch the pump off at the mains as I thought the pump was starting to fail, but it usually corrected itself. Then this month the oil burner started to keep running even when the timer was off also. Removed the Drayton and found the valve had seized in an open position, added a little lubricant, loosened it up again after 5 mins, Drayton back on, heating system working perfect. Thank you.
Saved me £200 in quoted price. Thank you so much for this video!
These things give a hell of a lot of trouble as I have experienced over the years. The trouble is to change the whole unit you have to drain the whole system.
Hi, do the orange micro switch wires for the central heating valve and the hot water valve go into the same terminal within the electrical box? Thanks
Hi, when my 3 port is on HW the flow from boiler is Hot then when I lower stat to switch to CH it will turn warm, sometimes cold even. Could the 3 port be slowing flow hense rads not keeping hot? I changed the cyl stat. I can see the port lever moving but not happy with the heat on ch pipe
Hi Typey1 - in the example you've described, I would check the thermostat first. If you have your CH and HW set to 'once' or 'twice' rather than fully 'on', it is very possible that your boiler is having to both heat the house and the hot water tank simultaneously. This results in an insufficient amount of hot water being transferred to your hot water tank because 50% of the available hot water heating power is warming your house. Either split your thermostat settings so that your hot water does not come on when your heating is on, or extend the times so that both are on for longer (at least 30 mins).
If that doesn't do the trick, remove the actuator from the 3 port (as I've shown in this video) and check that the valve moves freely with the help of a small adjustable spanner.
Let me know how you get on :)
@@MrEddy5959 cheers Ed,
My 3 port is a diverter, no middle setting (Drayton ZA3), if I call for heating the water gets priority then a satisfied stat switches to CH. And that's when I get a cool to varying temperature ch side. I found the spindle a bit clunky to turn by hand. The head operates good but I'm suspicious about the valve body now. I've ordered a valve body. My Ch tank sits on top of the cylinder that holds Ch water and the coil for water
@@Carlostype That seems like a good call. If the valve doesn't rotate freely, it's very possible that the actuator is not holding the valve open fully (not the fault of the actuator). Good luck!
@@MrEddy5959 Solved 🤦
The Drayton actuator wasn't locked on the spindle properly! The button is against a wall. But when the head was off we still struggled with maintaning heat to Ch (does it need the head to maintain its spindle position?)
In the meantime I replaced the cyl/stat, I used my tf1 to attach mains hose and flushed away, blew out the classic boiler, changed head valve body . ITS WORKING! Thanks for Ur advise time for a pint or 3 🍻
Are you seriously recommending using a Neon Tester??!!.....Do you know how dangerous these things are??!!!