Good job! PB surface shield looks like it held up well for all those months! A couple of friendly suggestions... Whenever using an impact to remove bolts (or lug nuts) from a car, check yourself multiple times to ensure that you have it in reverse. Grab a spray can of the PB Surface Shield to use for 'touch ups' when you're working under the car. You can hit any rust spots you find and put a quick shot back over your fill/drain bolts to protect them until next time. Crush washers are pretty cheap - I try to replace them whenever I can. I used to have an 89 4Runner that the previous owner had damaged the oil pan on because he never replaced the crush washer and wound up over torqueing it to keep it from leaking. I was able to find crush washers with a rubber insert to get me by until I installed a new pan when I replaced the long block (at 400k+ miles), now I just keep a pack in my toolbox. Keep up the videos - it's nice to see someone else working to keep them going like this (it also makes me feel better about the energy I put into our 86 and 87 4Runners ;-)
I used a scratch awl to be sure the 10mm hex socket would go all the way in, on both drain and fill Hex sockets. Tap with a hammer to insure fully seated, then breaker Bar. Out they came. Good video.
Great information but I need to buy a torque wrench to change my Tacoma differential oil, what size of torque wrench should you buy. I saw 1/2 and 3/4 and smaller. Thanks.
3/8 drive should be fine. If in doubt: new crush washer, tighten plug to finger tight, then just go about a 1/4 turn or so past that. Not too tight, and go very slowly with your index and middle fingers ( you won’t over leverage the ratchet this way).
they want $33 quart at canadian tire( need 3).....$100 just in oil to change rear diff. fluid. they charge $110 to do the job at the dealership. ( cheaper than doing the job myself) the dealership wants $70 for 1 quart of transfer case oil ( $105 to do the job)....wtf is going on with these prices
Hopefully my front diff isn't too stuck....seen a number of people complaining about that 10mm hex rounding out I'm tempted to get a spare just in case. Typically if I have one on hand the job goes smooth and if I dont then I need it...
@@JRESHOW Thanks for the tips! Got a number of maintenance items I appear to have missed in my haste to keep skiing, will use the impact and have spares. Gonna head down now to spray everything with pb blaster.
@@JRESHOW tbh it helps when you look at the correct model as well, just now caught mine is 3rd gen not 1st gen....all good. got the fittings all sprayed with pb blaster while I wait for stuff to arrive via amazon. Figure an extra day to soak will help.
@@JRESHOW Got both front/rear and transfer case done, only casualty was my poor ryobi impact driver :D He just didn't have the power to get that stuck front drain plug and gave up the ghost. Appreciate the vids!
Why is your rear axle full of oil? I would also replace your axle breather. That could be the culprit from all the oil everywhere. It looks old and stuck. Thanks for the video.
Thanka alot for taking the time to share your expertise!
Please do yourself a favor and leave the impact in the tool box.
Why do you say that??
@@JRESHOW most inexperienced people will strip the hardware. I've seen it happen alot.
im gonna use my ratchet later to get it loose. Not a fan of going gun ho and stripping it
Good job!
PB surface shield looks like it held up well for all those months!
A couple of friendly suggestions...
Whenever using an impact to remove bolts (or lug nuts) from a car, check yourself multiple times to ensure that you have it in reverse.
Grab a spray can of the PB Surface Shield to use for 'touch ups' when you're working under the car. You can hit any rust spots you find and put a quick shot back over your fill/drain bolts to protect them until next time.
Crush washers are pretty cheap - I try to replace them whenever I can. I used to have an 89 4Runner that the previous owner had damaged the oil pan on because he never replaced the crush washer and wound up over torqueing it to keep it from leaking. I was able to find crush washers with a rubber insert to get me by until I installed a new pan when I replaced the long block (at 400k+ miles), now I just keep a pack in my toolbox.
Keep up the videos - it's nice to see someone else working to keep them going like this (it also makes me feel better about the energy I put into our 86 and 87 4Runners ;-)
PB Surface Shield - great tip I'm gonna grab some of this for when I raise the truck up next and hit it on all the spots. Thanks!
I used a scratch awl to be sure the 10mm hex socket would go all the way in, on both drain and fill Hex sockets.
Tap with a hammer to insure fully seated, then breaker Bar.
Out they came.
Good video.
ALWAYS use NEW crush washers, not reuse old ones.
I was going to ask about this, Pretty sure I read you're never supposed to re-use crush washers
I got my answers from mechanics and engineers. I never reuse them.@@MrGawainX
Why did you use a pump when you bought the type of bottles that have the fill nozzles? Also should you just buy new crush washers?
🤣🤣 yes and yes. My local auto store didn’t have any crush washers that fit.
Think you need an oil with LS limited shift specification.
Great information but I need to buy a torque wrench to change my Tacoma differential oil, what size of torque wrench should you buy. I saw 1/2 and 3/4 and smaller. Thanks.
3/8 drive should be fine. If in doubt: new crush washer, tighten plug to finger tight, then just go about a 1/4 turn or so past that. Not too tight, and go very slowly with your index and middle fingers ( you won’t over leverage the ratchet this way).
I need to do this on my 2001 taco. Can i put antisieze on the nuts? Thanks
The cat went to go sleep under your truck as I working on it😅
Hi friend, a question. Every how many miles do you change the oil in the rear differential? Thanks.
they want $33 quart at canadian tire( need 3).....$100 just in oil to change rear diff. fluid. they charge $110 to do the job at the dealership. ( cheaper than doing the job myself) the dealership wants $70 for 1 quart of transfer case oil ( $105 to do the job)....wtf is going on with these prices
Inflation is out of control I went to advance out and picked up a gallon of the valvoline synthetic 75 w90 for 63 bucks after taxes.
Hopefully my front diff isn't too stuck....seen a number of people complaining about that 10mm hex rounding out I'm tempted to get a spare just in case. Typically if I have one on hand the job goes smooth and if I dont then I need it...
The front one was close… but with the impact it was good. Might as well pick up a spare like you mentioned for smooth sailing lol
@@JRESHOW Thanks for the tips! Got a number of maintenance items I appear to have missed in my haste to keep skiing, will use the impact and have spares. Gonna head down now to spray everything with pb blaster.
@@derekp6636lol we all been there
@@JRESHOW tbh it helps when you look at the correct model as well, just now caught mine is 3rd gen not 1st gen....all good.
got the fittings all sprayed with pb blaster while I wait for stuff to arrive via amazon. Figure an extra day to soak will help.
@@JRESHOW Got both front/rear and transfer case done, only casualty was my poor ryobi impact driver :D He just didn't have the power to get that stuck front drain plug and gave up the ghost. Appreciate the vids!
Old mechanic friend of mine would use a torch to heat them up some . I was having difficult be with mine so I tried it came right off.😎👍
I’m not a mechanic but that’s exactly what I do.
if i use the 75W 90 valvoline on my 2023 tacoma 2.7 2WD, that’ll be ok right? i don’t tow or haul oviously or i wouldn’t have a 4 cyl lol
Thanks
Don’t go twice on the torque wrench, it’ll be over torqued.
Never use an impact.
I couldn’t have done it without
Why is your rear axle full of oil? I would also replace your axle breather. That could be the culprit from all the oil everywhere. It looks old and stuck. Thanks for the video.
It’s surface shield to prevent rust. It’s sprayed on.