I bought a 9-3 SE vert 2 months ago. I think your videos are going to be priceless for me. You explain things very well and have a pleasant and clear speaking voice. I thank you!
Thanks for this video. I stopped using the AC due to a leak, but now, after watching your video, I think I'll bypass the compressor to be on the safe side. Fixing that leak might be expensive and sometimes it's not worth it.
Having done my water pump a year ago and struggling to get the belt on(Yeah, I removed the whole thing without realizing i didn't have to) I kept coming across references to a short belt. NOW, i know why! Planning to sell my second car and keep the Saab. Will now order up a short belt. Thanks.
Good video. Thank you! Would help to have a diagram of what the belt routing is supposed to look like around the pulleys. Also, your car does not have a lower cover on it that protects the engine from rocks (or you removed it before you started the video). This has to be removed in order to see what's going on underneath the car. Might be nice to mention that as well.
Thanks for the video! I did this recently and dug deep in the forums for old debates over the correct part. You can go one step shorter with the belt if you like - from 1815mm/71.5in to 1805mm/71in. I did, and had no struggle with the tensioner, fits just right. As for the best brand, the only consistent recommendation seems to be Goodyear Gatorback, which you'll find isn't available anymore. They are still made, but they are sold as Continental Elite. Confusing, because the standard Continental belts are prone to shredding, which I can attest to. Continental Elite (gatorback) part# 4060710 short belt, 4060922 long belt. An alternative: Dayco part# 5060710 short belt, 5060923 long belt. Notice the part#s are pretty consistent. Again, I'd avoid the standard Continental line. And finally - If your AC works but your AC pulley is noisy, it may just be the bearing. The compressor is a Sanden TRS series, which fits a 35x50x20 pulley bearing. NSK part# 35BD5020DUM, or anything listed as an NSK bearing for a TRS compressor. Can be had for $15. Worth a try, and the short belt gives you plenty of time to try it. Thanks again, lets keep em rolling.
You sir, are the man! Thank you for including all that pertinent info. I'm sure it'll help a Saaber who one day needs to know the correct sizes, and yes I included 1805 as a usable size in the video. I too remember digging around the old forums the first time I needed to do this, so hopefully this video will make it easier for someone to find it! Thanks again
Thanks for the tip. I bought a used 9-3 two hours away that had a seized compressor. I was able to do the bypass on site and drive it home. Otherwise, it would have had to be towed.
Really great, emergency repair solution, for one of the many issues that could potentially leave you stranded with your Saab. I'm looking forward to your "on location" solution to a failed slave cylinder with manual vehicles or your solution for failed fuel pump motor while driving around. How many miles did your compressor have on it? Was it the original, stock compressor? Was the AC system maintained and holding pressure or had it run out of gas?
I have 99 Saab 9-3 convertible. Following the the diagram. I still have 4 to five inches of slack. How do get he tensioner to tighten. Frustrated. Waites 10 days to get the short belt. Now i have it it doesn’t fit. 1815mm
Great video, I'm going to try this. One question - how do you thread the belt around the crank pulley without going in from underneath? Doesn't look like there's any room to get my hands in there.
If you don't want to come up from underneath or remove the passenger side wheel, you can remove the air box and try threading it around from up top. Personally I've done it that way but still I always go below and double check it's on the crank pulley properly.
Can i remove the ac compressor completely and use short belt? This is for low budget project car. Rest of AC system is gone already. I would love the space
The 9-5 belt is about 600mm longer, but that's only IF you're using the outdated idler pulley. Most ppl skip/delete/bypass that pulley on the OG9-5, since even Saab stopped routing it that way, in which case it should be roughly the same as the OG9-3. It looks like even the advertised "short belts" for 9-5 are too long when running the idler delete m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/6828/Accessory-Drive-Belt-6K-2415-Short-Belt-5590344/
@@saabross3171 Thanks for taking the time to respond. I'm not running the idler, so the configuration is the same as your diagram. I just replaced the water pump and noticed the AC compressor was making a bad bearing sound when I spin it by hand, so I'll just bypass it for now. It looks like I'm seeing any where from 1801mm to 1815mm in my research. I'm still not sure which size to get. I'm guessing anywhere in that range will work.
@@1shredderx Yeah the tensioner will take out any slack / difference so I think you're right; anything in that range will work. I don't see why 9-3 sizes wouldn't work if you got the same config w/o the extra idler; it's basically the same engine. I've never short belted a 9-5, so when you get it setup comment which size worked for you so that it might help others!
I bought a 9-3 SE vert 2 months ago. I think your videos are going to be priceless for me. You explain things very well and have a pleasant and clear speaking voice. I thank you!
No thank you! I appreciate the feedback my man, I really do.
The most difficult in this operation for my 2002 9-3 was to route the belt around the crank pulley. Otherwise, huge THANK YOU for posting this video!
Thanks for this video. I stopped using the AC due to a leak, but now, after watching your video, I think I'll bypass the compressor to be on the safe side. Fixing that leak might be expensive and sometimes it's not worth it.
Having done my water pump a year ago and struggling to get the belt on(Yeah, I removed the whole thing without realizing i didn't have to) I kept coming across references to a short belt. NOW, i know why! Planning to sell my second car and keep the Saab. Will now order up a short belt. Thanks.
You and I have the same real name, spelled correctly: a K not a C 😉
Good video. Thank you! Would help to have a diagram of what the belt routing is supposed to look like around the pulleys. Also, your car does not have a lower cover on it that protects the engine from rocks (or you removed it before you started the video). This has to be removed in order to see what's going on underneath the car. Might be nice to mention that as well.
Thanks for the video! I did this recently and dug deep in the forums for old debates over the correct part. You can go one step shorter with the belt if you like - from 1815mm/71.5in to 1805mm/71in. I did, and had no struggle with the tensioner, fits just right.
As for the best brand, the only consistent recommendation seems to be Goodyear Gatorback, which you'll find isn't available anymore. They are still made, but they are sold as Continental Elite. Confusing, because the standard Continental belts are prone to shredding, which I can attest to.
Continental Elite (gatorback) part# 4060710 short belt, 4060922 long belt.
An alternative: Dayco part# 5060710 short belt, 5060923 long belt. Notice the part#s are pretty consistent. Again, I'd avoid the standard Continental line.
And finally - If your AC works but your AC pulley is noisy, it may just be the bearing. The compressor is a Sanden TRS series, which fits a 35x50x20 pulley bearing. NSK part# 35BD5020DUM, or anything listed as an NSK bearing for a TRS compressor. Can be had for $15. Worth a try, and the short belt gives you plenty of time to try it.
Thanks again, lets keep em rolling.
You sir, are the man! Thank you for including all that pertinent info. I'm sure it'll help a Saaber who one day needs to know the correct sizes, and yes I included 1805 as a usable size in the video. I too remember digging around the old forums the first time I needed to do this, so hopefully this video will make it easier for someone to find it! Thanks again
This video and this comment is just what I have been looking for for days! Thanks.
Thanks for the tip. I bought a used 9-3 two hours away that had a seized compressor. I was able to do the bypass on site and drive it home. Otherwise, it would have had to be towed.
Really great, emergency repair solution, for one of the many issues that could potentially leave you stranded with your Saab. I'm looking forward to your "on location" solution to a failed slave cylinder with manual vehicles or your solution for failed fuel pump motor while driving around. How many miles did your compressor have on it? Was it the original, stock compressor? Was the AC system maintained and holding pressure or had it run out of gas?
So it won't slip on the water pump pulley even though its only grabbing 25% of the pulley?
I have 99 Saab 9-3 convertible. Following the the diagram. I still have 4 to five inches of slack. How do get he tensioner to tighten. Frustrated. Waites 10 days to get the short belt. Now i have it it doesn’t fit. 1815mm
Great video, I'm going to try this. One question - how do you thread the belt around the crank pulley without going in from underneath? Doesn't look like there's any room to get my hands in there.
If you don't want to come up from underneath or remove the passenger side wheel, you can remove the air box and try threading it around from up top. Personally I've done it that way but still I always go below and double check it's on the crank pulley properly.
@@saabross3171 thanks
Liked & subscribed.
Saved me, thanks!
Can i remove the ac compressor completely and use short belt? This is for low budget project car. Rest of AC system is gone already. I would love the space
Im just not sure if its connected to other fluid systems, ive never built a saab before.
Yep, most definitely. The short belt skips AC all together, whether the compressor is there or not!
I have an 01' 9-5 2.3t. It all looks the same... is it?
The 9-5 belt is about 600mm longer, but that's only IF you're using the outdated idler pulley. Most ppl skip/delete/bypass that pulley on the OG9-5, since even Saab stopped routing it that way, in which case it should be roughly the same as the OG9-3. It looks like even the advertised "short belts" for 9-5 are too long when running the idler delete
m.eeuroparts.com/Parts/6828/Accessory-Drive-Belt-6K-2415-Short-Belt-5590344/
@@saabross3171 Thanks for taking the time to respond. I'm not running the idler, so the configuration is the same as your diagram. I just replaced the water pump and noticed the AC compressor was making a bad bearing sound when I spin it by hand, so I'll just bypass it for now. It looks like I'm seeing any where from 1801mm to 1815mm in my research. I'm still not sure which size to get. I'm guessing anywhere in that range will work.
@@1shredderx Yeah the tensioner will take out any slack / difference so I think you're right; anything in that range will work. I don't see why 9-3 sizes wouldn't work if you got the same config w/o the extra idler; it's basically the same engine. I've never short belted a 9-5, so when you get it setup comment which size worked for you so that it might help others!
@@1shredderx Confirmed. 6pk1815 is the part # to bypass the middle idler & AC, exact same as an OG9-3 as it is for 9-5
@@saabross3171 I used the 6PK 1815mm to bypass AC and the center idler. It fits perfectly. Thanks!
Would this work for a 05' 9-3 little t?
Yep but your belt length will be different. You'd haveta look up short belt sizes for 9-3SS
I went thru this on my 2008 ranger 4.0 measured up what I needed with string for belt and I’m back on the rd
Smart way of doing it!