Thanks for this, i've got a 2012 GU and was thinking of paying someone for a front locker + swivel hub rebuild but this video has inspired me to DIY it
I like Eaton/Harrop, I use thier diffs but they design stuff to be used on multiple models with minimal manufacturing modifications and this is a clear example of of this. Look how the centre is so much smaller then the crown wheel, It was clearly originally designed for much smaller diff, maybe hilux/rover/C8.25” then adapted for the much bigger Nissan diff.
Yeah! nice work on the install. So neat and clean. No crocs on the tracks this week but glad to see the appearance of the shed safety crocs though.! Mint!
you are building my dream rig in the exact color too , and u love keeping the shed clean and doing a segment on it .. mate u got you're self a sub ! love your videos and effort you put into making them !
Just stumbled across your channel and video, thanks so much for this, I truly appreciate it. Curious, what year is your TI? Does it not have Traction Control? I purchased a ST new in 2017 as the TI had been dropped by then. I also purchased a auto locker for the front straight up. Guess where that auto locker is? Still on the shelf in the shed. Why? My ST came std with rear locker and Traction Control + ESC. What I discovered is that traction control works really effectively especially in low range, (no it's not disabled, ESC is switched off in low range) and it certainly assists scampering over crumbling surfaces, hence I rarely require the rear locker, so hence I haven't bothered to pull the front out and fit auto locker yet. BUT, I'm considering fitting 4.6 diff centres as I'd prefer lower gearing when scrabbling around on steeper climbs and better engine braking on descents, plus when towing our van the 4.3 gearing is just a tad high in 4th gear torque converter locked up. Again, thanks as you have provided me with the best DIY video I've seen this far, rather do this way than mucking round removing king pins. Have you considered 4.6 centres? Appreciate any input, tah. In addition; The ESC has little benefit in this vehicle and must be manually switched off prior to any sand driving. Worst still, the ESC is designed to kill you, so I disable it frequently. It cut in intially when ascending a tight turn ascending from the dealership, disabling throttle input, throwing the brakes on almost causing the vehicle following to run up my arse, so returned straight away to dealer to be told all large SUV's have this issue, it's a required safety provision, WTF. When towing a van it's bloody lethal, as soon as it detects any issues cornering it brakes radically ripping the steering wheel from your unsuspecting grip. Only safe answer, switch it off initially after starting motor.
This isnt a hate comment 😂 Your lsd must be flogged, I drive those hills in the exact same car but manual unlocked and 33s, iv just put a harrop rear locker in though and looking forward to testing it👍reason I went rear is because I blew the rear diff up so did it instead of going lsd replacement
Excellent. Does the front E-locker affects the on road drivability. City and highway driving. Read that you cannot go high speed with the front locker, because it will fail?!. I’m curious. Great video 👍
@@glenntoon4407 nothing aftermarket available for the rear currently, the question has been raised to aav but they aren’t interested in the RnD, they are more interested in ripping people off instead
I almost opted for e-lockers myself, but the problem with an e-locker is that it will disengage if you start rolling backwards and then going forwards again. The airlocker will stay locked either way. Therefore I went for the airlockers.
I don’t see too much of an issue there tbh, it engages very quickly back into lock mode so it shouldn’t make much difference driving up a rock step! But air lockers are also a great option although a tad bit more costly!! Both great products!!
@@RoamLyfe The problem though is that the e locker works with small balls that rolls forwards/backwards on a plate. This plate then moves and presses 6? pins into holes which then locks. The locker should be engaged on a flat surface on low rpm to prevent damage to the locker. Something they state in the user manual. If you are on a hill, roll slightly backwards and then try to go forward again the locker will not be engaged. If you "forget" this issue you might quickly shear or damage the pins that lock the gears. 🙄
Better products out there than eaton lockers. They are weak as with major design flaws. Should have saved a bit extra coin and gone TJM prolockers and be done
You should have gone for TJM Pro-Locker then - better than both of these and much cheaper than ARB. But when you get an E-Locker as a gift you put that in and pretend it's perfect.
There are no set torque specs for wheel bearings. As shown, the best way is to have the front auto lockers removed and the wheel fitted. Once that is done test for wheel bearing slop by lightly rocking the tyre in and out at the top and bottom (rocking the tyre in and out from left to right tests steering components). If you feel any movement (there is also usually a dull knocking sound) tighten the wheel bearing preload nut a little. Keep doing this in small increments until the movement stops but make sure your not pushing and pulling so hard that the tyre wall flexes. Once you find that tightness you want to preload the bearing by adding at least a 1/8th turn in but not much more. Preloading the bearing too much will cause it to heat up too much while driving and cause failure. What I then like to do is drive for about 100Km (constant not over a number of drives) and recheck the bearings by rocking the tyre top and bottom. If there is any play then go through the above work again and then retest after another 100Km. Sometimes (I would say if done like above this may happen 5% of the time) when going through the first time grease can become pressured and allow the preload to loosen. Driving that 100Km will allow the grease to come up to working temperature and the bearing to seat properly but be loose.
F!@k that! Too technical and need too much special tools. I'll just pay a professional to do it. There is no warranty if I make a mistake! Plus you use one of the most unreliable electrical connectors ! You'll be spending plenty of time reconnecting them after they work themselves loose.😅
Smart man, front locker always first 👍
How are you guys enjoying the content?? Insert constructive criticism below 👇
you do a great job man!
Awesome video here, learned a couple things and a good change of pace!
Excellent video. Clear and concise, very informative. Nice rig, love Patrols!
Thanks for this, i've got a 2012 GU and was thinking of paying someone for a front locker + swivel hub rebuild but this video has inspired me to DIY it
Yeww, get into it mate! It honestly wasn’t to bad to do! They have good instructions online!
Loving these vids. Congrats on the sponsorship/partnership with Ryobi. Wolf looks so grown up.
Thanks mate! Wolfs growing so quickly hey!!
Yeah he looked so happy in the shed with you though. Might have a future helper
Love your wheel and Tire Package Mate looks so mean on this rig
I like Eaton/Harrop, I use thier diffs but they design stuff to be used on multiple models with minimal manufacturing modifications and this is a clear example of of this. Look how the centre is so much smaller then the crown wheel, It was clearly originally designed for much smaller diff, maybe hilux/rover/C8.25” then adapted for the much bigger Nissan diff.
Yep 100%, it's common knowledge that these lockers are pretty shit house. I like harrop as a company and what they do but there lockers are shit
yeah and the bigger diff version the H260 patrol diff version is almost $3kAUD its gotta be noticeable bigger.
Bigger doesn’t mean better.
@@jarrod1687 how so?
Superb Sharing! Lot of love and great respect from a solo mountain hiker friend from the Lower Chitral District of Pakistan.
Thanks mate!
I love the content of this change.
Thanks legend!!
Locker makes all the difference. nice work.
I never thought about checking the preload with a scale i always used a rotational torque dial very cool man!!
Good video and very nice rig Mate
I’ve been waiting for you to be sponsored by ryobi!! Congrats mate, good sh*t. keep up the killa vids bro ❤️
Thanks so much! It’s not a full time sponsorship was just a promotion for them, but Hopfully can lead to something down the track!!
Yeah! nice work on the install. So neat and clean. No crocs on the tracks this week but glad to see the appearance of the shed safety crocs though.! Mint!
Hahahahaha!! The crocs are becoming the staple of the channel 😆
you are building my dream rig in the exact color too , and u love keeping the shed clean and doing a segment on it .. mate u got you're self a sub ! love your videos and effort you put into making them !
Def' fittin 1 to my GU now! great vid mate👍. An ur dog cracks me up😅..
Thanks mate!! He’s a bloody laugh
Go the Patrol!! heaps mad video ! 🏞️😎🛻🤙📹
Yeww thanks Brent ya legend!
Just stumbled across your channel and video, thanks so much for this, I truly appreciate it.
Curious, what year is your TI?
Does it not have Traction Control?
I purchased a ST new in 2017 as the TI had been dropped by then.
I also purchased a auto locker for the front straight up.
Guess where that auto locker is?
Still on the shelf in the shed. Why?
My ST came std with rear locker and Traction Control + ESC.
What I discovered is that traction control works really effectively especially in low range, (no it's not disabled, ESC is switched off in low range) and it certainly assists scampering over crumbling surfaces, hence I rarely require the rear locker, so hence I haven't bothered to pull the front out and fit auto locker yet.
BUT, I'm considering fitting 4.6 diff centres as I'd prefer lower gearing when scrabbling around on steeper climbs and better engine braking on descents, plus when towing our van the 4.3 gearing is just a tad high in 4th gear torque converter locked up.
Again, thanks as you have provided me with the best DIY video I've seen this far, rather do this way than mucking round removing king pins.
Have you considered 4.6 centres?
Appreciate any input, tah.
In addition;
The ESC has little benefit in this vehicle and must be manually switched off prior to any sand driving. Worst still, the ESC is designed to kill you, so I disable it frequently. It cut in intially when ascending a tight turn ascending from the dealership, disabling throttle input, throwing the brakes on almost causing the vehicle following to run up my arse, so returned straight away to dealer to be told all large SUV's have this issue, it's a required safety provision, WTF.
When towing a van it's bloody lethal, as soon as it detects any issues cornering it brakes radically ripping the steering wheel from your unsuspecting grip. Only safe answer, switch it off initially after starting motor.
love this type of content. keep it up
Thanks mate!!
Well done mate. The boy has skills!!!!🤙
Thanks legend!!!
Booldy oath mate it is the best🤙🏽🇦🇺
🔥🔥
It must be so satisfying doing all that work and then coasting up a hill that you'd previously had troubles on 🤟
It was nice not to hear any clunks and bangs hahah! 🤘
Loving this channel 🙌🏼
Nice Mods you’ve been doing👍
Thanks Angus!!
Nice work mate 👍🏼
Thanks legend!
Timmy the Toolman just made a video of this for a 3rd gen 4runner, good reference
This isnt a hate comment 😂
Your lsd must be flogged, I drive those hills in the exact same car but manual unlocked and 33s, iv just put a harrop rear locker in though and looking forward to testing it👍reason I went rear is because I blew the rear diff up so did it instead of going lsd replacement
Excellent. Does the front E-locker affects the on road drivability. City and highway driving. Read that you cannot go high speed with the front locker, because it will fail?!. I’m curious. Great video 👍
Nice job. Just the inspiration I need in preparation for servicing my cruiser's front swivel hubs. Cheers
Yeww! Not a bad job just messy!!
If u have a front diff lock on. Does that mean u cant turn the steering wheel?
No it still turns Fine, a tiny bit tighter but very easy to turn
I just had e lockers installed on a 4x4 canter truck, makes a huge difference for traction
It’s insane the difference hey!!
Did you take out the LSD from the rear ,I'm thinking about putting them in my canter too but the old girl goes anywhere already
@@glenntoon4407 nothing aftermarket available for the rear currently, the question has been raised to aav but they aren’t interested in the RnD, they are more interested in ripping people off instead
Another top vid mate!
An update on the shed floor how’s it wearing and so on? Any issues?
Any reason you didn’t install a solid pinion spacer whilst you had it all apart?
I almost opted for e-lockers myself, but the problem with an e-locker is that it will disengage if you start rolling backwards and then going forwards again. The airlocker will stay locked either way. Therefore I went for the airlockers.
I don’t see too much of an issue there tbh, it engages very quickly back into lock mode so it shouldn’t make much difference driving up a rock step! But air lockers are also a great option although a tad bit more costly!! Both great products!!
@@RoamLyfe The problem though is that the e locker works with small balls that rolls forwards/backwards on a plate. This plate then moves and presses 6? pins into holes which then locks.
The locker should be engaged on a flat surface on low rpm to prevent damage to the locker. Something they state in the user manual.
If you are on a hill, roll slightly backwards and then try to go forward again the locker will not be engaged. If you "forget" this issue you might quickly shear or damage the pins that lock the gears. 🙄
Better products out there than eaton lockers. They are weak as with major design flaws. Should have saved a bit extra coin and gone TJM prolockers and be done
You should have gone for TJM Pro-Locker then - better than both of these and much cheaper than ARB. But when you get an E-Locker as a gift you put that in and pretend it's perfect.
@@einfelder8262 is the e locker different to tjm e lockers?
Did you reuse your bolts to attach the ring gear to the carrier?
hey @RoamLyfe
does the vehicle need to be in 4x4 for the locker to lock up when switch is pressed on? or should it lock up regardless
Just realised you haven’t got disc brake backing plates ?
I take them off mate, they just hold the mud in there and cause issues!!
@@RoamLyfe might have to consider this myself. Did a glassy trip and so much clay/mud came out of my brakes even after washing them out 4 times
Love the vids keep it up
I thought the ti model had s factory rear locker
21:32~21:34 the front left wheel does not rotate for two short periods of time. Is this a problem?
The E Locker Becomes the New Carrier
No brake rotor stone guard?
Very nice install
Thanks Greg!!
How much newton meters did you use to tight the wheel bearing? I would had loved to see that process in the video :) Thanks for great videos.
There are no set torque specs for wheel bearings. As shown, the best way is to have the front auto lockers removed and the wheel fitted. Once that is done test for wheel bearing slop by lightly rocking the tyre in and out at the top and bottom (rocking the tyre in and out from left to right tests steering components). If you feel any movement (there is also usually a dull knocking sound) tighten the wheel bearing preload nut a little. Keep doing this in small increments until the movement stops but make sure your not pushing and pulling so hard that the tyre wall flexes. Once you find that tightness you want to preload the bearing by adding at least a 1/8th turn in but not much more. Preloading the bearing too much will cause it to heat up too much while driving and cause failure.
What I then like to do is drive for about 100Km (constant not over a number of drives) and recheck the bearings by rocking the tyre top and bottom. If there is any play then go through the above work again and then retest after another 100Km. Sometimes (I would say if done like above this may happen 5% of the time) when going through the first time grease can become pressured and allow the preload to loosen. Driving that 100Km will allow the grease to come up to working temperature and the bearing to seat properly but be loose.
great video, are they 4.3 gears?
Yeah the autos are 4.3!
How do you find the auto with 35s? I was told to stay clear
It’s alright, I have a billet converter and extream valve body ready to go in tho! Bout 4K worth of auto mods and it’ll handle 1000nm
Good job.id pass on the fat connector thought.im it s self may get caught up
Massive difference between on and off with the lock
👌👌
you deffintly know your stuff bro
I’m glad it seems like that cause half the time I’m on google researching stuff 😆😆 thanks mate!
What size tyres you running
35s!
@@RoamLyfe giving me hope for mine if it ever stops breaking
Would love one in the front too but too my $$$$$
It is expensive but it should be a priority mod if wheeling harder tracks! Makes a huge difference
adds are killin me . catch ya never again
F!@k that! Too technical and need too much special tools.
I'll just pay a professional to do it. There is no warranty if I make a mistake!
Plus you use one of the most unreliable electrical connectors ! You'll be spending plenty of time reconnecting them after they work themselves loose.😅