Particularly with 11 and 12 speed chains, it's important to use a chain checker that measures from the same side of the roller (such as the Park CC-4). The issue with tools like the Park CC-2 is that they measure from opposing sides of the roller, adding together the wear that Anna described @ 0:54 . This sort of opposing force never naturally occurs in the drivetrain and so you end up with a reading showing higher wear than actually exists. This is also why the Park CC-2 and similar tools can often show a brand new chain at close to 0.25% right out of the box.
You can also measure the chain, one link pair has 1 inch (25,4 mm), so you can measure how long 10 pairs are from middle to middle of the rivets and compare it to the 25,4 cm they have in new condition. 1% wear would be additional 2,5 mm. That's a very accurate method without the need for special tools.
If you are taking the chain off regularly (say, for waxing) you can set up a gauge to measure the entire length of the chain before re-waxing. Just put a nail into a vertical surface (stud, wall, door trim etc), hang the cahin and put a series of corresponding marks at the bottom end of the chain. Do this for a new chain then add marks for 0.25%, 0.5% etc.
You can also measure the chain, one link pair has 1 inch (25,4 mm), so you can measure how long 10 pairs are from middle to middle of the rivets and compare it to the 25,4 cm they have in new condition. 1% wear would be additional 2,5 mm. That's a very accurate method without the need for special tools.
I did a test and let my chain wear to 2% and i used the same cassette and triple chainring the whole time. Result: middle two or three sprockets in cassette wore out significantly. Middle chainring wore out significantly. Chain started jumping under high torque. I changed middle chainring $10, chain $15 and cassette $18. Distance travelled was just over 40,000km or 25,000 miles. This was on shimano 8 speed setup for my world traveller bike. I only ever use candle wax on the chain. Melt it and dip chain in when it starts squeaking.
According to my experience with half a dozen of SRAM 12-speed chains new chain already has 0,25% "stretch", so you only have additional 0,25% stretch to replace it. Measured with Park Tool CC.
So coming from a background of High Horsepower Motocross bike vs chains covered in sand/mud/ other riders... (ok I haven't run over another rider... their bikes?... now that's another story.).. I have found... The smaller the sprocket, the less contact points sharing the same load as the larger sprocket at the other end with more contact points... Result... Smaller sprockets wear out much faster than large ones... SO... #1, Check chain 'stretch' against your largest sprocket... not the front (Which is not only smaller, but is ALWAYS under load (at least with a 1x) so will wear out up to 10 times faster than the same size sprocket on the rear (if you were using a 10x set evenly.... I basically use 1,2,3 & 10 the most so do the math... Top gear on the rear is TINY so will be the 1st to go, especially for those people I HATE that can power up anything other than flat in top gear. BTW... Metal Does stretch... It has a fundamental mechanical property called elasticity, (It's ability to return to it's original size and shape after being stretched by a force, but only up to a limit). If a sufficient load is applied, the material reaches its elastic limit (yield point), where it will permanently deform. Luckily the Yeild point for a 1mm x 5mm (I'm guessing now at the size of the waist dimensions & or the sides beside the pin) is a lot greater than the loads put on the chain... but then again I myself have loaded a chain to breaking point (not just pilling a pin apart, actually breaking both side plates on a cheap kids bike but Jumping on a backpedal break could always have had something to do with that.
The CC2 checker is absolutely useless as there is more slack in the pivot bolt and bolt holes than it actually measures, it' common for it to measure new chains at 0.25-0.5! They're just so inconsistent, especially after getting dirty from getting in the tool box or just from use. It also measures the wear also in the roller like the other tools do too (the rollers wear but have no effect on chain pitch which is what we need to worry about). The only 'posh' tool that ignores roller wear and just measures pin wear is one by Shimano but it's just a go/no-go so doesn't really give you much warning. The ruler method is the only failsafe method: it is accurate, ignores roller wear, give warning of getting close to worn and is easy to do. Industrial chains (which are built the same just bigger) only ever use the ruler method of measuring the centre of a pin to the centre of another pin over a set distance.
Digital calipers are also a great way to measure wear, there are tables available to give corresponding measurements for % wear. Print out a table and put it in the caliper box. or stick on to the back of the caliper.
It is better to rotate 3 chains, every 500-600km put the next one, so that way the cassette and the chains will wear evenly and will last the longest, 10-12k km.
I did something like that for a while, 1 x shimano 9spd and a chinese rainbow color 9spd one. But I got lazy lol, got 630km on the chinese one, and like 2000 on the shimano. Should put the chinese one back on next time
Great vid... Tho always check a chain on the bottom run, between derailleur jockey wheel and Chainring, where it is under tension from derailleur, not on the top run, to get accurate readings
Hello GMBN, I have a question. Is it true that cleaning a bike chain too often can wear it down even more? Also when connecting and disconnecting the quick links too often, does it make the chain weaker???
On your first question I would say on contrary. If you don't clean the chain and the drivetrain as a whole often, the dirt will stack in and between the links of the chain grinding them down. Not to mention reducing the movement of the chain. As well it's not good lubing the chain without cleaning. As for the second question. The wear is more on the quick links. It doesn't affect so much the chain. In my more than 10 years of mtb, I had never an issue with quick link opening itselves after reusing it multi times regardless instructions say once opened it has to be replaced with a new one.
I started hot dipping my chains in wax again so I bought like a dozen of KMC x12 quick links so I just replace them when I have to remove the chain to re-dip, I don't trust "reusable" quick links, if you search buying them in bulk for your chain model will probably be a better deal than visiting your LBS for a link everytime you need to deep clean or wax...
@@YavorM-Yash I also never had an issue even reusing a one time use quick link since I had to but I don't really take chances anymore because to me it seems that it's the kinda thing that will happen only when I'm 6 hours from civilization, at least ... The world isn't a fair place, the older I get the more prudent I am. I hate it 😂
For quick link ideally replace but if like me you will use same one like 3-5 times before replace even though they are dirt cheap, I believe someone did a test on them but just remember was less than 10 the max you use one as each click together will make it wear out a bit more until you might find both bits feel slightly loose and not a firm hold together
if i would replace my chain everytime i reach 0.5, i would consume like 3 chains a Year,so i normally change it close to 0.75,never had issues,and every cassette i had survived 4 up 5 chains😁
Often depends on speed, like 10 speed and under it always 0.75, 11+ speed is 0.5 and single speed is 1 on recommend so maybe why some use internal hub gears, I believe on mine I get like 0.6 when I pick to change
That's amazing, the recommendation from Park Tools is for 5-10sp replace at 0.75%, 11-12sp replace at 0.5% and single speed to replace at 100%. So it is different for each chain. What speed is your drivetrain?
@@gmbntech 12Speed Eagle 😅never had any issues like that😅i am using the chain checker from Birzman at work and for Home application i got one from Rohloff✌🏻
#AskGMBN How many chains it usually takes until cassette/chainring needs replacement? Is there an indication to cassette/chainring wear other than new chain not working properly?
Depends on a lot of factors like how you take care of your drivetrain, you can't say X cassette or chainring has X hours of life, if you don't care for removing the lube grinding paste you may get only 500km out of your new XTR drivetrain 😂 The ideal is to have the same components new to compare but you can usually see the wear on cogs and gears with your own eyes without any measuring tools, on my bikes I start changing cassette and chainring when they get rounded at the edges of the tooth tips
On road I know it was said 4 chains, 2 cassette, 1 crankset (chainrings) but it also depends partly on replace chain as if not use worn chain for miles on top the cassette could last longer than 2 chains used (I am mainly road cyclist but am tempted to build a Trek Slash as first mountain bike that actually use off road, I had another mountain bike but only used on road as commuter)
Also to add I love a guide for cassette as joy of using this expression, I can stare at a cassette until the cows come home and can't tell if it needs replacing or not, I often just wait until I pedal and the chain jumps off cassette as how much power I push through it when leaving traffic lights in highest gear
@@mlee6050honestly when it starts to "shark-fin" that's an indication you haven't changed the chain soon enough... it's the shark-finning that causes the chain to jump. it means the chain has been sliding on one side of the slot more than the other due to the increased roller spacing... it jumps when there's not enough tooth left to hold it
#AskGMBNTech Ive got 2 2020 norco range. 1 is xl 29 and 1 is 27.5 L. I'm wordering if it's possible to mullet both bikes. was going to rebuild 27.5 front wheel as another rear. what other probems am I looking at. Cheers
If seen the Vernier for chains I wonder what your view of them is as when they say to replace sounds like chain is barely worn like maybe just 10-15 percent of it's life before normally replacing at the 0.5
@@mlee6050Agree. The fact is, people shouldnt ask the barber if they should get a hair cut nor a bike shop of they need a new chain. Somehow also the cassettes always need replacing with the chains, that's why now I take pictures of my cassettes with a digital microscope so I can see clearly any wear rather than an abstract looking like sharks tooth.
@@UraniumMilk oh smart, I might do that too, in another comment I said that I can stare at a cassette until the cows come home without knowing if it's good for more or needs to be replaced
@@mlee6050 Me either, I'm taking a pic before I install to reference later. It's standard in the industry they try to upsell cassettes, and I believe the salesmen and shop owners have even fooled themselves they are doing it for the customers benefit.
Meanwhile my lbs don’t want to replace .05 worn chain because “it matches the cassette” an a new chain will “accelerate wear” this is on an e-bike too.
That's why I have learnt to maintain my bike myself. Except for the fork. I had a friend who used to go to the shop just for cleaning and lubricating the chain on her bike. Told her that it's ridiculous to waste money on something she easily could do by herself .
@@YavorM-Yash Same here. Had a buddy that went to a shop for a new chain install lol. After fixing his broken chain twice in rides I quit riding with him.
Metal can strech, it's called plastic deformation. It's not the mechanism behind chain "strech", but it's nothing unusual. When you hammering down nail and you f**k it up in a way that you bend the nail, one side of the nail got streshed.
In the case of the chain the material is hardened, an not really comparable to a nail. As you say this is not the mechanism behind chain stretch, if a chain is "stretched" the links are worn around the rivets.
Thailand is a double-edged sword… there is a very real depression that sets in the minute the wheels of the airplane leave the runway on your way home.
This video was meant to be an in depth explanation of chain wear, so that everyone can have a stronger understanding of chain wear and what causes it 🤙
@@dystopiaisutopia That was not the case in my chain wear. 2 of my friends also had chain strech only 1 link. While pedalling chain will make click sound only pedaling certain position. All our chains are high quality and we race. Usally happens going up the hills with high watt power.
I've had the same chain on my bike for over 10 years and at least 10,000 miles and the shifting and everything is fine. I'm sure my chain is stretched but I don't care. Everything is working fine.
I wouldn't be bragging about that lol. That means you put down very little power on every ride, averaging maybe 150 watts. In the past decade of MY riding I've stretched countless chains from regular MTB use, putting down over 600 watts in Colorado. Some chains were over a quarter inch stretched in 3 months! So when somebody is bragging about how they don't stretch chains I kind of doubt that they even ride seriously at all.
I ride about 6000km-7000km a year and my advice is to change the chain every 1000km and the rest of the drivetrain whith it at 3000km. So you avoid to get any damage of more expensive parts and the ride quality is almost canstant over the mileage.
Chain "stretch:" isn't actually true, as medal doesn't stretch. The difference in length that we are seeing is that parts of the chain are wearing and becoming thinner because of that. LOVE the encouragement for people to check their chains though, now if only more people would do it more often, Thanks for sharing!
Particularly with 11 and 12 speed chains, it's important to use a chain checker that measures from the same side of the roller (such as the Park CC-4). The issue with tools like the Park CC-2 is that they measure from opposing sides of the roller, adding together the wear that Anna described @ 0:54 . This sort of opposing force never naturally occurs in the drivetrain and so you end up with a reading showing higher wear than actually exists.
This is also why the Park CC-2 and similar tools can often show a brand new chain at close to 0.25% right out of the box.
You can also measure the chain, one link pair has 1 inch (25,4 mm), so you can measure how long 10 pairs are from middle to middle of the rivets and compare it to the 25,4 cm they have in new condition. 1% wear would be additional 2,5 mm. That's a very accurate method without the need for special tools.
10 speed is the best. What's next 13, 14 speed? Narrow is weaker.
If you are taking the chain off regularly (say, for waxing) you can set up a gauge to measure the entire length of the chain before re-waxing. Just put a nail into a vertical surface (stud, wall, door trim etc), hang the cahin and put a series of corresponding marks at the bottom end of the chain. Do this for a new chain then add marks for 0.25%, 0.5% etc.
You can also measure the chain, one link pair has 1 inch (25,4 mm), so you can measure how long 10 pairs are from middle to middle of the rivets and compare it to the 25,4 cm they have in new condition. 1% wear would be additional 2,5 mm. That's a very accurate method without the need for special tools.
I did a test and let my chain wear to 2% and i used the same cassette and triple chainring the whole time.
Result: middle two or three sprockets in cassette wore out significantly. Middle chainring wore out significantly. Chain started jumping under high torque.
I changed middle chainring $10, chain $15 and cassette $18. Distance travelled was just over 40,000km or 25,000 miles. This was on shimano 8 speed setup for my world traveller bike. I only ever use candle wax on the chain. Melt it and dip chain in when it starts squeaking.
We need more bike collectives. Access to tools is a major hurdle to bike repair.
You can get a basic tool set for $20-40.
@@dystopiaisutopia why spend $20 on cheap tools when a collective has park tool equipment free to use
@@Coastal_Cruzer What are you talking about?
@@dystopiaisutopia read
According to my experience with half a dozen of SRAM 12-speed chains new chain already has 0,25% "stretch", so you only have additional 0,25% stretch to replace it.
Measured with Park Tool CC.
Got decent mileage from them? Curious as looking to have 12 speed Trek Slash and 12 speed Trek Emonda ALR when I build both up
@@mlee6050 Made approx. 1.500 km (35.000 hm) with one to reach 0,5% stretch. X01 lasts 30% longer than GX. 😉
So coming from a background of High Horsepower Motocross bike vs chains covered in sand/mud/ other riders... (ok I haven't run over another rider... their bikes?... now that's another story.)..
I have found... The smaller the sprocket, the less contact points sharing the same load as the larger sprocket at the other end with more contact points...
Result... Smaller sprockets wear out much faster than large ones...
SO...
#1, Check chain 'stretch' against your largest sprocket... not the front (Which is not only smaller, but is ALWAYS under load (at least with a 1x) so will wear out up to 10 times faster than the same size sprocket on the rear (if you were using a 10x set evenly.... I basically use 1,2,3 & 10 the most so do the math...
Top gear on the rear is TINY so will be the 1st to go, especially for those people I HATE that can power up anything other than flat in top gear.
BTW... Metal Does stretch... It has a fundamental mechanical property called elasticity, (It's ability to return to it's original size and shape after being stretched by a force, but only up to a limit). If a sufficient load is applied, the material reaches its elastic limit (yield point), where it will permanently deform. Luckily the Yeild point for a 1mm x 5mm (I'm guessing now at the size of the waist dimensions & or the sides beside the pin) is a lot greater than the loads put on the chain... but then again I myself have loaded a chain to breaking point (not just pilling a pin apart, actually breaking both side plates on a cheap kids bike but Jumping on a backpedal break could always have had something to do with that.
God, I love those nerdy topics
So do we! 🤓
The CC2 checker is absolutely useless as there is more slack in the pivot bolt and bolt holes than it actually measures, it' common for it to measure new chains at 0.25-0.5! They're just so inconsistent, especially after getting dirty from getting in the tool box or just from use. It also measures the wear also in the roller like the other tools do too (the rollers wear but have no effect on chain pitch which is what we need to worry about). The only 'posh' tool that ignores roller wear and just measures pin wear is one by Shimano but it's just a go/no-go so doesn't really give you much warning. The ruler method is the only failsafe method: it is accurate, ignores roller wear, give warning of getting close to worn and is easy to do. Industrial chains (which are built the same just bigger) only ever use the ruler method of measuring the centre of a pin to the centre of another pin over a set distance.
Digital calipers are also a great way to measure wear, there are tables available to give corresponding measurements for % wear. Print out a table and put it in the caliper box. or stick on to the back of the caliper.
Great hack! Slightly more expensive than a chain checker tool but does have other applications 🤙
This is actually a big problem with middrive ebikes
Ebikes have tons of problems
@@dystopiaisutopia more to go wrong, but I love them 😊
@@stevenleslie8557 I never will
That’s why linkglide, was invented🤷♂️
It is better to rotate 3 chains, every 500-600km put the next one, so that way the cassette and the chains will wear evenly and will last the longest, 10-12k km.
So basically you go through chain no 1, 2, 3 and repeat? I might try that.
@@Triplex5014 Yes.
I did something like that for a while, 1 x shimano 9spd and a chinese rainbow color 9spd one. But I got lazy lol, got 630km on the chinese one, and like 2000 on the shimano. Should put the chinese one back on next time
This is what I do, I'm getting much better longevity than ever before. I just use Strava to log the distance and swap chains at 500km
Yaban DLC coated chains ?
Very helpful, thank you!
Thank you, teacher.
Or as we like to say here in Brazil, "-Valeu, fessora!"
Thank you! 😃
Hi Anna, Happy New Year 🎉
Happy New Year! 🎉
Wonderful world greetings to you all
Great vid... Tho always check a chain on the bottom run, between derailleur jockey wheel and Chainring, where it is under tension from derailleur, not on the top run, to get accurate readings
Hello GMBN, I have a question.
Is it true that cleaning a bike chain too often can wear it down even more? Also when connecting and disconnecting the quick links too often, does it make the chain weaker???
On your first question I would say on contrary. If you don't clean the chain and the drivetrain as a whole often, the dirt will stack in and between the links of the chain grinding them down. Not to mention reducing the movement of the chain. As well it's not good lubing the chain without cleaning.
As for the second question. The wear is more on the quick links. It doesn't affect so much the chain. In my more than 10 years of mtb, I had never an issue with quick link opening itselves after reusing it multi times regardless instructions say once opened it has to be replaced with a new one.
I started hot dipping my chains in wax again so I bought like a dozen of KMC x12 quick links so I just replace them when I have to remove the chain to re-dip, I don't trust "reusable" quick links, if you search buying them in bulk for your chain model will probably be a better deal than visiting your LBS for a link everytime you need to deep clean or wax...
@@YavorM-Yash I also never had an issue even reusing a one time use quick link since I had to but I don't really take chances anymore because to me it seems that it's the kinda thing that will happen only when I'm 6 hours from civilization, at least ...
The world isn't a fair place, the older I get the more prudent I am. I hate it 😂
For quick link ideally replace but if like me you will use same one like 3-5 times before replace even though they are dirt cheap, I believe someone did a test on them but just remember was less than 10 the max you use one as each click together will make it wear out a bit more until you might find both bits feel slightly loose and not a firm hold together
Part of the fun of having a Box Two Prime 9 is that I have no real information on how to keep up with it
Has Park Tool adjusted the chain checker tool (CC2) you used? When I was trying to get one it said that type wasn't compatible with 12 speed chains.
if i would replace my chain everytime i reach 0.5, i would consume like 3 chains a Year,so i normally change it close to 0.75,never had issues,and every cassette i had survived 4 up 5 chains😁
Often depends on speed, like 10 speed and under it always 0.75, 11+ speed is 0.5 and single speed is 1 on recommend so maybe why some use internal hub gears, I believe on mine I get like 0.6 when I pick to change
That's amazing, the recommendation from Park Tools is for 5-10sp replace at 0.75%, 11-12sp replace at 0.5% and single speed to replace at 100%. So it is different for each chain. What speed is your drivetrain?
@@gmbntech 12Speed Eagle 😅never had any issues like that😅i am using the chain checker from Birzman at work and for Home application i got one from Rohloff✌🏻
Titainium cassette, pros , cons , chain if ther is also ?❤❤❤❤
#AskGMBN How many chains it usually takes until cassette/chainring needs replacement? Is there an indication to cassette/chainring wear other than new chain not working properly?
Depends on a lot of factors like how you take care of your drivetrain, you can't say X cassette or chainring has X hours of life, if you don't care for removing the lube grinding paste you may get only 500km out of your new XTR drivetrain 😂
The ideal is to have the same components new to compare but you can usually see the wear on cogs and gears with your own eyes without any measuring tools, on my bikes I start changing cassette and chainring when they get rounded at the edges of the tooth tips
You have to inspect the cassette cogs regularly for deformation.
On road I know it was said 4 chains, 2 cassette, 1 crankset (chainrings) but it also depends partly on replace chain as if not use worn chain for miles on top the cassette could last longer than 2 chains used (I am mainly road cyclist but am tempted to build a Trek Slash as first mountain bike that actually use off road, I had another mountain bike but only used on road as commuter)
Also to add I love a guide for cassette as joy of using this expression, I can stare at a cassette until the cows come home and can't tell if it needs replacing or not, I often just wait until I pedal and the chain jumps off cassette as how much power I push through it when leaving traffic lights in highest gear
@@mlee6050honestly when it starts to "shark-fin" that's an indication you haven't changed the chain soon enough... it's the shark-finning that causes the chain to jump. it means the chain has been sliding on one side of the slot more than the other due to the increased roller spacing... it jumps when there's not enough tooth left to hold it
Thank you
You're welcome
#AskGMBNTech Ive got 2 2020 norco range. 1 is xl 29 and 1 is 27.5 L. I'm wordering if it's possible to mullet both bikes. was going to rebuild 27.5 front wheel as another rear. what other probems am I looking at.
Cheers
0,75 is for 9+ speed and 1% is for 5-8
Spreading your mileage over several bikes should avoid wearing out chains quickly 💁♂️
I think they made the cc2 design because its easier to trick customers into thinking their chains are worn out with it.
If seen the Vernier for chains I wonder what your view of them is as when they say to replace sounds like chain is barely worn like maybe just 10-15 percent of it's life before normally replacing at the 0.5
@@mlee6050Agree. The fact is, people shouldnt ask the barber if they should get a hair cut nor a bike shop of they need a new chain. Somehow also the cassettes always need replacing with the chains, that's why now I take pictures of my cassettes with a digital microscope so I can see clearly any wear rather than an abstract looking like sharks tooth.
@@UraniumMilk oh smart, I might do that too, in another comment I said that I can stare at a cassette until the cows come home without knowing if it's good for more or needs to be replaced
@@mlee6050 Me either, I'm taking a pic before I install to reference later. It's standard in the industry they try to upsell cassettes, and I believe the salesmen and shop owners have even fooled themselves they are doing it for the customers benefit.
Where is Doddy? I have not seen him on the channel for a while
Adam, he quit more than 4 months ago. 😂
Meanwhile my lbs don’t want to replace .05 worn chain because “it matches the cassette” an a new chain will “accelerate wear” this is on an e-bike too.
So be your own bike shop.
That's why I have learnt to maintain my bike myself. Except for the fork.
I had a friend who used to go to the shop just for cleaning and lubricating the chain on her bike. Told her that it's ridiculous to waste money on something she easily could do by herself .
@@YavorM-Yashwish me lucky, as price of service I'm tempted to do fork and shock myself
@@YavorM-Yash Same here. Had a buddy that went to a shop for a new chain install lol. After fixing his broken chain twice in rides I quit riding with him.
Metal can strech, it's called plastic deformation. It's not the mechanism behind chain "strech", but it's nothing unusual. When you hammering down nail and you f**k it up in a way that you bend the nail, one side of the nail got streshed.
In the case of the chain the material is hardened, an not really comparable to a nail.
As you say this is not the mechanism behind chain stretch, if a chain is "stretched" the links are worn around the rivets.
Thailand is a double-edged sword… there is a very real depression that sets in the minute the wheels of the airplane leave the runway on your way home.
This video could be greatly simplified and make more sense , especially to novices .
This video was meant to be an in depth explanation of chain wear, so that everyone can have a stronger understanding of chain wear and what causes it 🤙
Should check the chain's all sections, not just one section.
It all wears evenly.
@@dystopiaisutopia That was not the case in my chain wear. 2 of my friends also had chain strech only 1 link. While pedalling chain will make click sound only pedaling certain position. All our chains are high quality and we race. Usally happens going up the hills with high watt power.
I've had the same chain on my bike for over 10 years and at least 10,000 miles and the shifting and everything is fine. I'm sure my chain is stretched but I don't care. Everything is working fine.
Haha cool story. Now go buy a new chain...
100%
@dystopiaisutopia a new chain would he nice though. But 2 or 3 times a year 😅😂
I wouldn't be bragging about that lol. That means you put down very little power on every ride, averaging maybe 150 watts.
In the past decade of MY riding I've stretched countless chains from regular MTB use, putting down over 600 watts in Colorado. Some chains were over a quarter inch stretched in 3 months!
So when somebody is bragging about how they don't stretch chains I kind of doubt that they even ride seriously at all.
@@dystopiaisutopiaI never stretched a chain, the pins just wear so make chain longer but the metal don't stretch 😜
I ride about 6000km-7000km a year and my advice is to change the chain every 1000km and the rest of the drivetrain whith it at 3000km. So you avoid to get any damage of more expensive parts and the ride quality is almost canstant over the mileage.
The chain does stretch. It doesn't 'appear' to stretch.
Look at a ruler of a worn chain, that's called stretch.
Are you not embarrassed about the state of that drivetrain? 😅
Wax your chain and it will last 10,000 miles or more. I measure with a caliper. To me it’s worn at anything with a pitch greater than .5”+ 002”
Best way to avoid the expense, headache and frustration is to buy a bike with belt.
Chain "stretch:" isn't actually true, as medal doesn't stretch. The difference in length that we are seeing is that parts of the chain are wearing and becoming thinner because of that. LOVE the encouragement for people to check their chains though, now if only more people would do it more often, Thanks for sharing!
Did you actually watch the thing before commenting? Exactly that was explained at the very beginning of the video.
@@plainuser48596 I did watch it, but again, it's old information...hopefully it will help some that may not know.
If the overall chain gets longer, it STRETCHES. WOW
First
🥳