Post Frame Interior Slab + Porch Concrete Pour Ep14
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- The concrete pour was more than a one-man job so we contracted this part out. It’s a major step in the journey to this post frame building being called home.
The plan is to fill the stress cuts and seal the surface with epoxy instead of laying floor over it.
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you had a good concreting crew Paul! amazing how so much comes together once the concrete is laid isn't it? No more walking on mud: hehe
Thanks for sharing, I found this video very inspiring.
It definitely makes it feel a lot different once the concrete is in.
Those concrete guys really work fast:)
What I'm planning on doing is laying my rebar out and then attaching my hydronic heat loops to the rebar with zip ties. What I'm thinking is that the heat will transfer into the concrete as well as the rebar to maximize the radiant heat. Steal is a good heat conductor. I'm very shocked that they didn't use a concrete pumping truck. That would have made life a lot easier for them and protected your hydronic heating lines much better. Did your concrete come out completely flat?
Is it so clever to ride a machine over pex tubes? Love your videos and project
im jealous, this is gonna be an awesome house.
Concrete looks awesome!
Rebar should go on chairs in top 1/3 of concrete. The cracks will not be as apparent when the bar is nearer the top
Another great update thank you. Re the saw cuts - any idea why whey are made in cement instead of just leaving it flush as a full slab? thanks in advance!
All concrete cracks so you make relief cuts to control where it cracks.
What I've done in the past is get a cheep plastic cutting board and cut it into the size I need as a spacer for the bottom of my deck post. What did you end up doing and what do you think of using a plastic cutting board as a spacer?
Why did you pour the slab after you framed it? I’ve always seen the slab done first and then the framing. Just curious on why or what made you make the decision to do it that way.
Was wondering what you used to make your stress cuts, and how deep did you go?
When you pour your slab this way, aren't the posts going to be under concrete, which is the point of the wet set brackets?
I don't remember any videos discussing slab at overhead doors. Did you turn down the slab at the overhead doors in the garage? How thick?
Just starting out but have a question: It looks like the rebar is just placed over the PEX. Might the rebar and weight of the concrete on such a small pressure point (where the rebar touches the PEX) crush down the PEX pipe? Is there some sort of spacer to keep them apart?
Why did you buggy in the concrete instead of pumping it.
Awesome job! I stumbled across your channel, and been watching your house take shape. Can't wait to see what's next!! How many yards was that?
Eric B thanks. It was between 80-85 yards.
Was that fiberglass rebar from Owens Corning? Did the concrete guys say anything about it? Price compared to steel rebar?
was there any reason he didn't out up his metal siding right after his block it wrap?
Hey Paul, at 4:21 what did you do to make your porch column footings square where it meets the bracket? Are those precast? I want to copy your method for our porch!
Alex, take a look at video "Column Footings Using Wet Set Brackets Ep7" the 18min mark
we are building a house this summer in Northern MN I liked that you stapled to the foam it seems that is how all the contractors do it around here. Question how close to level is the floor with those guys free handing the secreting. That would take some skill. And are you at all worried the rod was on resting on the pex? I have seen standoffs on the rod to get it off the floor but that would be a pain with carting it in
Thanks, love your build series keep it up. !!!!
I’m not concerned with it at all. It’s pretty tough. I kept pressure on the system while they poured to make sure it wasn’t damaged. As far as it being level it is pretty darn close. It could vary 1/4 “ in places but you can’t tell at all. Good luck on your build. Would love to see pics as you go.
Hey Chad, we live in Superior WI, and plan on building a small bardo building. If you don’t mind where are you building yours? Would enjoy checking yours out!
@@Sport-ns5lk Hello, we ended up building a stick built house instead of a post frame ours ended up being 74'x34' with 1400 square feet living space and around 800 square ft garage the garage is 34x24 12ft ceilings, house has 9ft. In our area we have a high water table and thick clay so buried posts would not work. We did a thickened edge frost free slab and since we weren't going to do super tall ceilings it was more economical to go with stick built. We did also do room In attic trusses so we have a large attic space too. Shoot me a message if you want to come see it some time.
Hello - love the videos - quick question. I noticed you didn't wrap or protect the base of the frame/posts from the concrete. Does that introduce any risk of rotting on the timbers? Curious as I need to do something similar on my French project. Cheers
No It doesn’t. Should last a life time as it is isolated from the outside elements.
A wood plank stamp for your porch concrete would’ve looked pretty slick
Yes it would have. We thought about it but the additional cost wasn’t worth it to me.
I’m surprised they didn’t use a pump to place the concrete.
how thick is your concrete? how deep did they cut down with the saw? I think i heard you say it was 4'x4' squares. Thank you so much. Your video's are so much help. I live in South Dakota in a 24'x45' 10' sidewall "menards" post frame house with an attached 16'x32' post frame for my kitchen, bathroom and laundry with crawl space/ rasied floor for ease of pluming. I designed it myself lol, I am a mechanic not a carpenter. Now i am planning to build a new home for myself a 60 x 120, with 17' sidewalls the last 32' will be my living quarters that will have the in floor heat, and that is the part that scares me the most. I will be giving my existing house to my nephew, but he has to help me build my new place lol.
My youtube handle is Marvelous Auto Arcade i just noticed i was on my friends account "schitler"
5” thick. Relief cuts are 1”. Good luck on your build. Would love to see pics when you get going.
@@MrPostFrame thank you so much, yes i will post videos on the Marvelous Auto Arcade channel, I will try anyway it takes twice as much work filming while you build and then editing. But i know you know that. Thanks for taking the time to film your build i know how much more work that is.
I will start the build next spring. It is on a 120" wide railroad land my father purchased for me 25 years ago. I am piling up alot of railroad ties and knocking down a few big nasty darn cottonwood"s into a large pile to burn this winter, it should be one heck of a fire lol
is the floor inside the house at the bottom on your post? I thought the reason for the brackets was to keep the post out of concrete? trying to learn and understand those small details of the project! Great channel!
The bottom of the post is about 2”s below the concrete. My 2” polystyrene insulation sits on top of the footing then the concrete starts. The bracket keeps the post out of the ground. There should be no moisture touching the post.
@@MrPostFrame got ya, so since you have the gravel down then foam, then slab, no water is gonna touch the bottom of the post, or if it does, it gets quickly wicked away. Everyone says concrete absorbs moisture but I guess the gravel and foam keeps that from happening?
(Of course water would have to get in the walls at that point)
Do I have that right?
Sorry for the complete novice question and language.
Brian Needham no problem. There is a 6mil plastic vapor barrier below the insulation as well so that keeps the concrete from pulling in moisture from the ground.
I show laying the plastic in one of the videos.
And yes if somehow moisture gets into the post it should wick away through the gravel. One of the main reasons you put a gravel base below concrete other than for a solid base, is so moisture can escape.
I have a question about the insulation board and the side of the concrete, do you keep the wood on the outside to protect it? Or do you just put the metal sheets over it?
The bottom girt is on the outside of the insulation.
Marshall Remodel isn’t that gonna rot?
Pretty ballsy running a buggy over the pex, we always pumped floors when possible. If you get a leak from a busted pipe your screwed
if you watch other videos he said he was going to fill lines with air with a pressure gauge . lol
@@funtyes1970 Ya that's what your suppose to do, once the concretes on the ground it's to late
While poring the concrete the pex was pressurized, also there was rebar over the pex, then boards distributing the weight. Plus those concrete buggies are made for the job. Very wide tires.
I understand the heating of the cement for the shop. But I don't for the house.... how does that work? You just going to have bare floors with no wood or nothing? How does the heat transfer through wood with catching it on fire over time?
The concrete will be our finished floor, however you can put wood down and the radiant heat works the same way. Essentially a solution is heated up and then pumped through the lines and then the heat is transferred into the concrete bringing it up to the desired temp. The heated concrete will then bring everything else up to that temp creating a very even, and comfortable heat.
Does it matter how far below the concrete the pex is?
Some will tell you it needs to be in the middle but I’ve always put it at the bottom and have had great results.
I like it at the bottom of a 5” slab so anchoring walls is no issue.
Yall never heard of a line pump?
was thinking that.. labour must be cheap they had about 20 guys working on that. never see that in aus
sometime's the pump is more than labor
Matthew W
For this amount of square feet/meters I think a pump would have been much cheaper.
@@BendeVette not always im in IL and drive Concrete truck for a living and some pumps are 500 plus just to show and then so much per yard
Matthew W
That buggy isn't without costs, neither are the people running around.
You might be right about the costs of the pump, but driving over the tubing, even when protected would not be my first, second or even third choice. Even if the pumps costs more, it can't be that much of a difference.
How much cheaper is this than traditional builds? Or is it more? Looking to build one myself in a few years.
Ethan it just depends on how you design it, how much you do yourself, ect. I’m planning a video soon on cost of our build.
That’s awesome! I’m looking forward to seeing that video for sure!
Why didn’t you pour before you set your walls?
Olde South Contractors a few reasons. One we were not 100% decided on our layout inside which would affect our plumbing, second reason is the concrete will be our finished floor so I didn’t want to take the chance of damaging it by dropping anything on it and lastly I wanted to build my walls on the ground and raise them which required a boom and the use of a heavy lift to put the trusses and purlins on. Thanks for watching.
You almost NEVER pour your floor before you set walls in post beam.
@@MrPostFrame I have so many friends challenging me on this and need more evidence on the net benefits. The cons are fairly strong as well it seems.
How do you prevent these slab from heaving up without a foundation under it?
It’s all in what is under the slab. Should be 4”s of compacted gravel under the slab. If properly compacted the gravel provides a solid base and drainage if any water was to find its way under it.
@@MrPostFrame thank you, and I appreciate you taking the time to respond.
@@jasonarmstrong4556 google Frost Protected Shallow Foundation if you want to learn more.
Hey mate, really enjoying watching your build, some really good information in here. One pressing question i have here and i only ask because of everything i have ever been taught about concreting... Why are there not feet under the rebar to place it in the centre of the slab? I may be wrong but it looks like it is sitting on top of your tubing and on the porch right on the compacted gravel, would this not make it essentially do nothing?
They pull it up into the middle of the slab as they pour.
@@MrPostFrame Thanks for the reply, Ok understand, that is what they do here in West Africa except with rocks underneath to prop it up, in NZ and Australia in a professional application it would always be done with chairs to ensure the bar remained at correct height.
u will heat up.ol this concret scarry
Are you worried about the concrete cracking at all?
All concrete cracks at some point that’s why you put relief cuts in it to control where it cracks.
@@MrPostFrame I saw you did relief cuts, but I have no experience with on slab builds which I find fascinating. House looks awesome by the way and can't wait to see it all finished.