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Big 3 Upgrade / Grounding Kit / Earth Grounding (Custom Grounding Kit) | AnthonyJ350
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- Опубликовано: 19 янв 2012
- Keep all the electronics in your vehicle happy! In this video I show you how to build a grounding kit from scratch. The Camry where I show you how to build it isn't the "Big 3" because I didn't up grade the alternator wire, but you can carry the theory across and just run a wire to the alternator.
I do show you later in the video examples of other vehicles I've done which DO have the Big 3 done.
#Big3 #Alternator #Ground #Wiring #Bass #SoundSystem #ChargingSystem
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About AnthonyJ350
I am a Mobile Electronics Certified Professional 12 Volt Installer (MECP Certified), Business Management Graduate (KPU), with a Professional Driver's License and a genuine automotive enthusiast who loves working on vehicles and I want to share my experiences with you. The goal is to help other people who can hopefully learn from my unique outlook towards vehicles, experiences and working practices.
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Big 3 Upgrade / Grounding Kit / Earth Grounding (Custom Grounding Kit) | AnthonyJ350
• Big 3 Upgrade / Ground...
ANTHONYJ350
/ anthonyj350
You are very knowledgeable. Its nice to see someone on here that actually DOES THINGS THE RIGHT WAY. You have great instructions AND reasons why you do what you do. Keep the tutorials coming, many people can benefit!!
Thank you!
You can never have enough grounds!! Did the same thing to my Chevy truck. Works wonders on older cars also. Stock chassis grounds connections will degrade. Road grime interferes with frame ground connection overtime. It's nice to check them over in the summertime. Happy grounds happy car. New heavy grounds just makes a more reliable car even if you don't have a aftermarket sound system. Plus it's easy to do on most cars.
Exactly, electricity takes the least path of resistance. All we're doing is giving it more paths to take. Thanks for the comment!
I fucking love the logical explanation from this guy OMG. And I love how he demands you to buy a torch if you don’t have one!
😂😂😂😂. If you don’t have one, buy one!
🙌🙌
SraiTdenI Glad to hear you liked the video!
Thanks for the heads up!: )
I'm going to do the job tomorrow.
Best exclamation I have heard why to do a wiring upgrade. Well done 👍
Thanks for watching!
i'm not a pro but i've been to car audio stuffs and your explanations definitely makes sense.
and if ever i were about to have an electrical job with my car, i wouldn't hesitate to be done by YOU just in case you're doing it as a job. it's shows how clean and tidy you work and simply tells you know what you're doing.
nice video!
Thanks for the comment. If you live in Canada I can do the work for you. I work out of a shop up here.
AnthonyJ350
thanks! but sad to tell i'm not from Canada.
just shared your video so that others could learn as well.
That's absolutely correct. Modern transmissions are electronic now and can benefit from this mod. I have it done to my truck but didn't mention it in the video. Great point!
Overall you sir have made the best video for a big three upgrade
Thanks so much for watching! I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks for the feedback, it's much appreciated. I'll have some motorcycle videos coming down the pipes soon, since I just put one together recently :D
Wow! Talking about total extreme wiring system! Love it! Great info! Thanks! Thumbs up!
Thanks!
Really a pleasure to watch you bro I’m learning a lot thank you 😎🍀👍🏼
Thanks so much! I have more updated videos on topics like this where I think I do a better job lol ruclips.net/video/mkWCqSfr6ig/видео.html
The "BIG THREE" wiring change under the hood. Big Audiofiles running mobile amps etc use this change to beef up power delivery. This is where it gets interesting.....I perform the BIG THREE by NOT REMOVING BUT ADDING IN PARALLEL additional 6 gauge battery cables to the stock small cables running from:
1. The (-) battery to fender ground.
2. The Battery (+) to fuse box feed.
3. Right front cylinder head engine (available threaded bolt) to left shock tower bolt(ie frame connection to engine block)
4. added cable from stock altenator (+) output to Battery (+) post following stock cable.
5. I also beefed up the stock (-) ground run straight run down form the (-) battery post to the frame behind the front left tire at frame.
Ok, so I made 5 changes but effectively still falls under the Big Three change rules to follow. You can google Big Three wiring change and see those basic rules to follow or implement.
All cables simply doubled up providing an effective 3 to 4 gauge connections.
Now, not a bit of head light flicker, voltage maintianed 14.2v charging voltage at all times.
But here's what else has occured and what I wanted to share with you.
1. Slightly brighter headlights.
2. Engine starts are far quicker...no lag in starter (Same stock battery BTW) It's more of a snap start vs the ruh..ruh..start. Starter has better power feed even though I did not increase the starter cable feed size.
3. Here's the kicker...I am seeing 1.5 MPG average increase in fuel economy!! I actually had a tank on a long mostly freeway trip to Monterey a couple weeks back get me 18.2 MPG! Otherwise very same drive to work and back. This has to be due to increased power delivery to the ignition system and a stronger spark through those independent coils. Also by doing this you increase the distance of your remote starters.
This additional big three wiring done by yourself would cost you about $30.00 tops in cable and dual bolt lug battery lead clamps all available at your local auto store.
Just wanted to share this out. I have a photo's of my install. BTW, I'm an EE by trade.
Sky high wire comes in first. Rockford wire 2nd and I think JL is 3rd.
Great video! Very informative, can't wait to make my own grounds for my supercharged type R!
Thanks for watching! Let us know how it turns out.
and i am 27 and have been putting car stereos in friends cars since i was 15. i also had a job doing lift kits and lowering kits and some car stereo installs. but got hurt and laid off. but still learning the car audio side, to better my skills on it, making it cleaner and better. so just give it a try, it doesn't hurt to do it yourself but not all shops do half ass just some people and if you find somebody that you like request them to work on your car each time so you don't get the newbie.
Thanks for sharing thsi video, really learned about the big3 =)
Glad it helped!
@WHALEHUNTERGATHERER Well I don't really plan on making another video like this for a while. Like the video shows, you go from negative terminal on the battery to chassis, motor to chassis and alternator to the positive terminal. You just have to find bolts on the motor and chassis that aren't really doing anything and hook them up.
Goddamn! Are you sure 900 grounds are enough? Better add 900 more, just to be safe. Most of your points are valid but holy shit.
As far as manufacturers skimping on wiring to save money, couldn't be more wrong. They're all fighting for fuel efficiency and CAFE ratings. No way in hell are they going to jeopardize losing .0001 mpg to save a couple strands of copper, not happenin. Engines are finely tuned and part of that comes from optimizing EVERY single little resource, including vehicle electrical and networking of various modules.
My point wasn't they were trying to conserve weight. Copper is just playing expensive so if they can minimize how much they use, they're going to save a lot of money.
Auto makers use the cheapest wire they can find. It's all about saving weight and those CAFE ratings. But as an EE, The less V-Drop, heat loss ( energy), in any system is always a good thing. Especially for MPG. Look at it this way, with the added bigger cables, everything runs cooler. Less resistance means less heat. WE all know that running cooler makes more power
Kruilty I couldn't disagree more. I have torn into many factory wiring harnesses and I can honestly say that the OEM insulation and wire will take much more heat and abuse than about anything else.
Very professional stuff big 👍👍👍
Thank you!
ground your transmission also. you can get the lugs at homedepot. 3/8 #4 guage. crimper you can get at harbor freight. been doing this for over 10 years. it does work !
@@aaronbecerra3788 better shifts for automatics. just ground the case to chassis.
Great video, very informative!
Thanks for watching!
Great video as always, love your channel! However, I wouldn't say that a valve cover is necessarily a reliable ground because it's often electrically isolated from the engine by the rubber gasket. Even the nuts/bolts that hold it down often don't directly contact the valve cover since they usually have rubber seals around them too. On some vehicles it could work fine, but I'd rather just ground directly to the head or block and remove all doubt.
I agree it's situational and you have to know how your vehicle is put together. Good point!
Ok, maybe you can help.i.have a 2011 Camry and I want to do the big 3 upgrade on it, but the positive batt to positive alt isn't conventional, how do I get around this
Yes, the solder I use has a rosin core typically.
I went from like 14 gauge to 0/1 gauge on my car with the big 3 and I love it loves good to
Nice analogy with the straw bit.
Love The Video
I agree but for most people this is more than enough for the avg daily driver. I didn't show all the grounds on my truck but I'll list them. I grounded each cylinder head to frame, front of cab to frame, rear of cab to frame, transmission to frame, exhaust to frame, battery to frame and block. I didn't bother with the tb and yes mine is electronically controlled. I think i did a proper "overkill" set up, beginners would just get bombarded, so I show you the basics and you go from there.
For Brent Terry since they have their reply setting on restricted. All we're doing is preventative maintenance and allowing electricity to take the least path of resistance. So if you have an aluminium valve cover it will be able to conduct from the head of the fasteners (if they're touching the metal) and flow to the cylinder head. Each application will vary. I believe the ground you're refer to is the one on the Civic. And I actually replaced a factory ground. So the engineers at Honda put that there, I just put a better wire on.
The valve cover does not touch the head anywhere... It is separated by a gasket, and the fasteners are separated by their own o-rings... Makes little to no sense to ground to the valve cover
Anthony Taylor Why does Honda do it in plain site on 1996-2000 Civics? Cause last time I checked Honda has some of the best engineered motors.
+AnthonyJ350 that vehicle was a toyota wasnt it?... Honda does it to ground sensors in the valve cover, the ground you added would in no way affect the spark plugs because their grounded component(cyl head) in no way makes metal to metal contact with the valve cover
Anthony Taylor Every vehicle is different. I do a continuity test and I test for resistance to see if there is any ground to begin with and if there has been any improvement. I don't show that step because it's over people's heads that are new to this. My theory is based on what I find stock on other vehicles. Look at the valve cover on a 1996-2000 Civic, front on the driver's side.
+AnthonyJ350 im not saying that you dont know what youre doing man... Im just pointing out that you are incorrect in saying that a ground to the valve cover (in ANY vehicle) will in some way help the spark plugs, yes it will help sensors mounted to the metal valve cover, just not the spark plugs like you mention... To help the plugs, a direct ground to the cyl head needs to be made
After I install the 4 gage big 3 ,the engine idle down faster even on cold starts 👍👍
That's awesome to hear!
I usually use left over power wire from amplifier power kits. So it tends to be oxygen free and a high strand count.
I don't have a big amp in my truck and I don;t spend a lot of time researching articles like this, but I was employed as an electronics installer for over 30 years so these things catch my interest. Since I have a standard Ford pickup truck without any amps or special electronics, and my truck has run fine for 278,000 miles, I don't see the need for any electrical improvements. I have read the comments about how these grounding improvements can help the engines run better, transmissions shift better, etc. But to me these are just " guy next door" theories, i.e. opinions. Until I see the engineering data and tests that can be measured , it is all just a theory to me. Maybe there is data. I just haven't seen it. Interesting video though.
Are there any credible install shops in your area?
No I haven't upgraded the alternator yet. I plan to put a high output unit on soon (200 amps).
im running 4 subs in my nissan sentra 2008 when the bass hits hard the engine starts making a sound like a high pitch wine and the idle drops on the RPM of the car would the big thee help this
If you still experience that problem you'll have to step up your alternator. What kind of vehicle is it and what kind of system are you running?
I do know that after I did a grounding kit on my car it made my headlights and interior lights stay bright. My headlights would dim whenever I used any electrical load like rolling down my window. My OEM grounding was not enough.
@cookerbullock No problem! Ya think of it like preventative maintenance/ slash electronic improvement for the 12 volt system :)
I haven't seen any how to's on the big three for old box body suburbans. Any tips?
Thanks for the comment!
Good information
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Did you watch the rest of the video where I show other vehicles where I did the alternator wire like on my truck? Cause I understand I only did the grounds on the first car, but I do show other examples. My grounding kits have to be good, I welded studs on to the frame and cab of the rear of the truck! Like who does that???
Thanks man. Just need some more info. I also don't want to take out the original harness. Will done it soon. Thanks a lot.
The nissan 200sx i have that i bought recently already is 0 gauge grounded to the strut mounting surface so one less thing i have to do plus i just changed the alternator i just have to clean up the negative battery ground some.
i did my ground from batt to strut tower, and intake valve to battery... and what do you think about kinetic power cells??
had a question i just got a new 150 amp high output alternator to solve my dimming issues but had no luck, i drive a 99 camry 2.2 and i just wanted to know what grounds would i have to upgrade and would i have to upgrade my positive from the alternator to the battery? Also which groud specifically should i focus on replacing first?
should we disconnect the negative from the battery first before connecting the new ground cable to points we want to put ?
I would definitely upgrade the big 3 as well.
Sorry to hear that, cause I work at a shop. That's why I know this stuff cause I practice it every day.
I need to do this BIG 3 on my Hummer H3 I have watched your videos and from what I can gather I just run down the grounds that are there and replace them with the 0guage? or is there something I am missing..?
Hey i was just wondering is there any difference between brands and colours of 4 AWG wire? because I've seen some 4 AWG wire which has said for audio and another that has said suitable for ground
No, you just want something that is "true spec" actually getting the amount of wire you paid for and preferably 100% copper. Some cheaper brands make the insulation jacket thicker to make it look like a thick wire. I usually use the high end Stinger wire.
AnthonyJ350 Drahcir92 I also recommend avoiding CCA (copper coated aluminum) wire, "Welding Cable" is by far the most reliable marketing name, Industrial users do not accept cheaply made wire
I leave them on because keeping them on won't hurt. Electricity will take the path of least resistance, so if I have more paths it has more options.
Hi. If I want to upgrade the big 3, does i need to take out the original harness and replace with new one?or how?Just doubt regarding cable from alternator.Thanks.
I have a camry with a 80 or 90 amp alternator. Would it be ok if I used the 4 guage to do the big 3?
It can't move though, you've created an already solid mechanical connection by crimping it in the vice. it's crushed in the vice first, then soldered then lightly held again in the vice for a heat sink. If I only soldered it I would see your point, but in that time frame the solder has solidified enough you can cool it. I have never had a cold solder joint doing it like this. In a high volume environment, you have to go as fast as possible, make it ultra reliable and make it look good.
Who are all that people who put the dislike marks on this nice video? Are they gods and they can show us a better video or are they just always dislike? :)))
this seem better than pivot grounding cable im gonna try making one :) do u feel anything improve on yr car ?
Thank you for the video, BIG help. However, I ran into a problem. The speakers are making a screeching sound and it amplifies (gets louder) as I accelerate my car. Any thought on what could be the problem? It even makes the sound when the radio is turned off.
Andrew Rodriguez Torres You have a ground loop somewhere. I'd start by how the amps are grounded.
Excellent vid!
Thank you!
It just dawned on me that I had to make some similar mod repairs on a few of the trucks that I work on, guess the maker! 😅
@@ahumm8280 Chevy? Did you see my ground video for those trucks?
@@ahumm8280 ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 Nissan-UD is the truck I was talking about because the engine to chassis cable and battery to chassis connections go to crap just like the nissan and infiniti cars. My Tahoe was totalled back in January so Im about to click the link and reminisce.
What size is the battery on your Truck. I have a 02 2500hd and there is not much space for the side terminals. Mine is group 78 but from the video you have twice as much space between the fuse box and the battery. And did that top cover come with the battery.
My truck is a 2005 1500 so the electrical has been updated a little bit. That's probably why there's more space. It's the stock side battery in the truck.
i have a kinetic hc 2400 in the trunk is it still necesary to do the big 3 on the car.its a 91 lincoln towncar with 2 12s L5s with a 2000 watts brutus hifonics and a powerbass 1600 watt amp for my highs and last a 3 way kicker xover.
I understand that it can benefit any vehicle but mainly performers for audio, but CARS SHOULD COME LIKE THIS!
They should, but it's a cost savings thing. Copper is expensive so vehicles are built to "good enough" standards.
I agree. However from a car manufacturer perspective, if it costed even an extra few bucks, it adds up when you're making 50,000 cars. That would be an extra $150,000
Glycerin I agree, I guess you just gotta look at the bigger picture
@AnthonyJ350 thanks for the info!
I'm definitely gonna sub and come back to you when I have electrical questions!
:) (Y)
Do you leave the old wires connected(in use)? Not one video is saying to leave old ones in or not.
Sorry I was soooo wrong, you were rite sir I saw the links and thanks for sharing the links with me
+OMG ITS FUFU FuFu Productions What's wrong with them though, I'm curious about your take on it.
+AnthonyJ350 Keyboard warriors.
Devin Lasher I know, everyone is a professional. But then you see the work they do compared to you... Why can't everyone just be nice and try to learn from one another???
+AnthonyJ350 because this is the internet
Hi Anthony. can this upgrade help me to get more voltage from alternator? i notice now my alternator not giving 13.8V where most claim as ideal working voltage. i do measure at battery terminal while engine run i just get 13V instead of 13.8V. done same testing without battery connected also same result. does it a sign that my alternator gonna die soon?
At what point do you recommend the Big 3? I have A 500-watt RMS bass amp turned down to 300 (for the sub), and a 4-channel that puts out 60x4 RMS. That's less than 600 total, which divided by 14.4 volts would be about 42 amps. My 2010 Mazdaspeed 3 has an over 100-amp alternator, IIRC. I think I'm good. Thoughts?
+Numinous You should be ok as long as you have a good quality battery that can recharge quickly. You can never go wrong with the Big 3. Or to make it easier just upgrade all the grounds.
You should heat the ring terminal from the BACK while applying the solder to the opposite side to reduce the amount of lead vapor.
At 9:03 in your video, are you wiring the crankshaft sensor to the negative battery ? If not, can i know which parts of the car is it ? Thanks
It was just an open thread on the valve cover.
Is there a fuse between alternator (+) and positive battery terminal? Do you use 4gauge for ground only? Is it overkill to use 2GA or 1GA?
There's typically a fuseable link on newer vehicles. I typically use multiple 4 gauge. IF you have thicker wires and can run it nicely it doesn't hurt to go bigger. Especially if you have a bigger sound system.
@WHALEHUNTERGATHERER Sounds good dude!
It would be a good idea to. That way the cooling fans can't turn on while you're working under the hood, if you have electric fans.
Hello sir, can you give some suggestion for grounding point on bike?
Is there any disadvantages when the battery is in the trunk (chrysler 300c). How to please.
Having the battery far from the alternator, the vehicle is more susceptible to getting "engine noise" when doing a sound system. I would still ground the motor at the front and throw a thicker ground from the battery to chassis in the back of the vehicle.
I thought I did... Yes I usually leave the old wires intact unless they're damaged or too corroded, then I replace.
now are you leaving the old ground wires on? and why
I have serious OCD about my engine bay, is there any reprocess ions Papp
what torch you have? where would I get one liek that?
4 guage will run up to 150amps? how much can 0 guage run
Rule #1 of electrical theory: you can never have too good of a GND.
Thanks for the comment!
Si if you wanted to ground the alternator, you'd run a wire from it to the positive terminal ?
Serious video.!!! and its was very instructive ..seeing other how to ..they buy such a high-res cam and then either have studdering or grammar issues then the purpose is defeated
i was told from a mechanic to ground the alternator with atleast 4 gauge, wich means id have 2 big batt grounds, big alt ground, and big alt positive. partly to keep the big dry cell from draining when the car is off, and to have a ridiculous amount of flow
Will I need an alternator ground wire if the alternator is already grounded by the base to the engine with 4 screws and there's 2 ground 0 gauge cables on the engine?
Jose Torres If you have a big sound system I would. My truck is ground similar to how you're describing
AnthonyJ350 no sound system. Engine upgrades, turbo, tuned, intercooler, etc
can you show a video of how to do it on an 02 acura tl?
so do u have to leave the stock wires on or take them off? also do u need a fuse?
Fuse the positive line to the alternator if you're worried. I also leave all the factory grounds intact.
The resistive losses in the wires are equivalent to I(square)R. Also, the voltage at the load will be less than the source whenever a high current flows through thin wires. Electrical engineers in car companies balance between performance, reliability, cost, and marketing strategy. And that means there will always be room for cheap aftermarket performance improvements.
not many do but a grounding kit involves grounding the block, alt, transmission, tbody, and frame twice in either a two line or loop formation and in modern racing is very important to have it done in that way along side a big3 also its usually better to ground transmission to block to tbody then to the frame as for you big 3 you did great on it but you should do a proper gkit to protect your electronics and help you truck perform better
Bluepoint. I got mine from SnapOn.
SO i'm having excessive resistance. Alternator case to battery negative is showing .15. Would this upgrade help this condition?
Upgrading the eletrical is always going to be good for the vehicle. What is happening to your vehicle exactly and what's the year make and model?
98 ford explorer V6 4.0 SOHC. Its idling really low to the point where it even stalled at every light. Gpt a new battery,New IAC, new PCV, cleaned throttle body multiple times. Over the weekend i replaced the manifold gaskets as well. Now the car doesnt stall but at idle it will dip under 500rpms and the dash lights dim and engine shakes a bit then pops back up to 600rpms. It'll do this mostly when car is warmed up. WHen the car does stall it starts right back up. Never had an issue with it starting. I do have a stereo system in it. I still have all the stock grounds which are of course a bunch of puny little wires. So since the battery was new and the multimeter tells me that its fine and with car on and full load the alternator is charging it. But when i check the ground on the alternator case itself its showing nearly 4 times the resistance desired.
Which is the difference between negative-positive pole and ground earth cable?
Ground earth would be the same as the negative
You do really good work, keep it up!
Yo Fizzle Thank you!
Ignore, that last comment. Pressed wrong button. I have OCD about my engine bay. Would there be any reprocussions about removing the factory grounds for the sake of neatness.
Credible install shops i doubt. They usually charge an arm and a leg and do a half ass job. I probably have a better shot at watching this video while i try it on my own lol great vid man
so your just adding the ground could you just replace the existing ground with the bigger gauge wire or you wouldn't recommend that
@AnthonyJ350 very well done vid, very informative specially for a novice like me! just a quick question regarding wires (since you mention you can use welding wire), can i use 200amp wires from a jumper cable/lead? i found them to be also thick and high amperage. thanks in advance!
You could, I assume it's 4 gauge?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes its 4awg for the 200amp.. there is a 2awg with 400amps
@@dem1177 4 gauge is more than adequate
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks! your definitly right.. as i am gonna be using only my stock headunit and speakers.
could you please help, Im doing big 4 this weekend and was wondering if you can keep original grounds and plus. Im adding a 0 gauge wire (50mm2)
Yup, I keep the original grounds in. I'm not too concerned about ground loops since factory puts grounds all over the place.
So it wont affect the 0 gauge? Like so it just goes through the original ground or plus haha. Guess not tho, just to be sure
@@Caluy It will take the path of least resistance.
@@AnthonyJ350 thx (:
@@Caluy You're welcome
Anthony I got 8 gauge to do my ground kit I have a 4 cylinder do you think I can get the benefit for ground kit?
Ya for sure. Good high quality 8 gauge wire can handle 60 amps easily.
Remember, electricity is just going to take the least path of resistance, so it won't hurt anything to put it on.
Just bought a Optima Yellow Top Battery and Im gunna do this big 3 upgrade better stop my headlights dimming and voltage drops down to 10 volts or I don't know what else to do other than forking a shit load out for a HO alternator
Got any videos on grounding an Chevy Blazer?
Sir, it is my opinion only, that if you had "fluxed" your wire before you crimped it in the vise, the solder used would have "runned" and "coated" your target wire faster, and even would have made you a better electrical connection overall.