I admit one thing is that I go to favorite channels that pertain to my interests at my age... 73 and it is very hard to set and listen to things that do educate me but I will never be able to do again and that was my whole life.. wrenching. I loved being a fair mechanic as I came up in a area that didn't require as much collage as practical experience but then I do like your channel because you make it easy to learn from. I wanted to share one that I don't know if Cat has one but might. I was working on a motorhome and when I sent it out, I informed him no charge as I could not find it. So he leaves and I forget about it. Then he is back and he says; Your the go to guy when no one else can find it. That hits the sweet spot and so up again for the challenge, I interrogate my customer... when does it do what? He says rough roads, pulling into driveway, etc., so I start by checking then rechecking and nothing. So I hand him back hiskey and he puts it in his pocket and uses the keys in his hands. As he did that, a light went off in my head... wait for a minute please... and so he stops and asks me why. I asked him to move over and he did so I take it for a short drive and no problems until I pulled into my shop area... I asked him, do you have spendy rims? He laughs and said no. So I curbed it and the engine stubbled and it was apparent he didn't like being bumped around by the cuss words then a "how did you do that, make it do it again. I told him your keys are talking to the truck! I pulled it into the shop and checked the knock senor and then when it checked out changed it anyway. It fixed it but hiskey chain must of weighed ten pounds of grand kid toys and they rattled on the dash. I took the keys out and pulled the important key off and then told him to give it al the same trouble places without the key chain then try it with them again and bingo, that was it. Even though it was better with the new knock senor, it would do it intermittently and so his precious toys went in the pocket and a key went into the ignition
This is a lost art. Nowadays every tech is a pro parts replaced and throws thousands of someone else’s hard earned dollars at a problem they don’t truly understand.
Electronic controls and check engine lights has resulted in a bunch of parts replacers...gasoline engines too. A good mechanic goes OLD SCHOOL...the engine operates, essentially, the same as the non electronic version. That's why you are exemplary in your field. Damn good job!
you know i took alot of advice from josh here and several of the master techs at the shop and my career has drastically improved watching these videos and applying them to doing end frames and diagnosis currently i am swapping out a 3406E cat and its had a long list of problems and also engine damage but i just wanted to say thank you just helping open my mind up
Thanks for giving me the confidence to think outside the box when it comes to problems. Been watching your videos for a bit and I feel like I am getting stronger at with my abilities. Keep making great content like this!
Thànks for taking time out to help us old school folks that don't dig all the so-called "hi tech improvements that plague my friends that think that new is always the best route... I'm 60 yrs ok old, and only run older Cat equipment with no computers, wires, or dummie lights to tell you there's a issue... 99% of the time I know something is wrong before it becomes an issue ...I run a like new ,low hours 1968 Cat D7E Dozer, a low hour 1986 Cat D4E, a 1976 Cat 225 with low hours, a 93 Pete 379, low milage 3406b.... And I wouldn't trade any of them for a new disposable lightweight pos that is always in the shop ...
Really like your informative videos. But i love my 96 mech CAT 3406c 8pn, alleviates a lot of the electrical "what if". Also installed Air Dog mechanical air separator on fuel filter housing after watching your video relating to fuel mileage. Immediate improvement to throttle response, intake manifold psi improved from 15-18, full throttle under load to 20-25. Over 50% decrease in black exhaust, and since i have more manifold psi, I'm not in the throttle as much or as hard (full throttle). Giving it several weeks to see how much fuel mileage changes. Keep up the good work Josh. Thanks.
Wow... didn't realize you received so many eMails every day. Makes me feel bad about sending you a lengthy eMail about my issue. I learn a lot from your videos, so thanks for taking the time to create them... gives me some good ideas on troubleshooting. If nothing else, and I haven't discovered a solution to my problem, one day maybe I'll be able to swing by and let you snap some photos for your Destruction of the Week segment. HA!
Josh wish I had seen this video a month ago. Had a gmc 6500 with a c7in it towed in to shop. Crank no start. Did all the standard checks and fuel psi was very low. Replaced lift pump same thought bad new pump. Replaced again no change.I did notice coolant temp was stuck at around 170. After several calls to cat tech line I was assured that was not my issue. Well said the hell with it got a new sensor and it started. Live and learn lol
I have a '05 freight w/detroit 60 14L. At idle it almost feels like its missing but rpms never fluctuate. Any weight added, even empty flatbed, i lose all power and engine shake/miss gets extremely worse. Does not smoke. New turbo, VPod, EGR, wiring harnesses, and turbo boost sensor
I have a 6 cyl Fiat Iveco diesel engine, done 248000 klms, it had 6 or 8 thousands dollars spent on it, the inline injector pump and injectors were rebuilt, has a reconditioned head, engine not running on all 6 cylinders, the customer gave up and left the truck to rot, after 15 plus years of sitting it started first go after testing and cleaning the fuel system but still misfiring, I took the motor apart, it had 1 good piston, 2 had broken compression rings, 1 liner had a leak into the sump, the work was done by a reputed truck mechanics workshop and they couldn't fix the issue, I work on diesel engines, self trained, I found the problems.
Well. Most mechanics are just like lawyers and dentists, they thrive on people's miseries. When someone's miseries are hard to come by, they may always try to the tried and tested diagnostic procedure of misdiagnosing and prolonging the suffering until their luck changes. Questionably yours, Mr haunting nightmare.
Fuel pressure gauge should be considered mandatory equipment. If not equipped, add one, actually add a couple. One post filter, and one on the rail. Snapshot could be handy for those intermittent hard to replicate issues. Didn't know about that.
You da man Josh! Unfortunately the young mechanics are just taught to read the code scanner and replace the sensors and nothing more. You have to be methodical and be able to imagine the complete circuit and what could be obstructing it . Thanks for another great video!
Related to example no.1 its Cold Mode all mxs and nxs has its just inbuilt cat ecm setup nothing is wrong to eliminate white smoke its cat answer , I have seen tens of engines but few programed ecms by good programmer doesn't have, to deal with warm up the engine 168° atleast before moving or if you forget don't press accelerator heavily and keep it over 1400rpm until temperature reaches.
Yes i had a c12 lost both sensors but i dont think they failed at the same time it would start and die in the morning but he wanted to haul gravel half way through the summer and died down the road from my place as i remember it had codes for both i replaced both and it ran like a champ.
i thought that you meant troubleshooting a diesel with no cel. like an old truck without an ecm either way watched the whole thing very informative. i have a 3406b that i’m working on would love to see more on the old motors if possible. either way love your channel
A good mechanic isn't expensive, they're priceless. Without a compression test, how can you tell a engine is worn out? I have a Cat 3176 with 700k miles and throttle response is slow both up and down. It takes a whole second to drop 500 rpm to be able shift. Would a higher compression engine be more snappy? Or is it just a 3176?
One subjective method to check compression is to compare the ease/difficulty of manually turning over the engine with the difficulty of turning it over when it was fairly new.
traveling tech- it does have blow by, but for 700k miles I don't think it is excessive. I've driven some where the rpm drops so fast its hard to time the shift into gear. Mine if I pull a hill off a red light, I lose so much wheel speed waiting for rpm drop that I can hardly maintain enough rpm for the higher gear. The biggest problem is it has a 9 speed and big ratio difference between gears.
PRODIGY Adept Ape Thanks for sharing what you know with us great video, take care and have a great day. PRODIGY Adept Ape From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I have run a PAR test on a 3406B and with 5 Lbs of fuel psi it was putting 500 HP to the flywheel. Fuel psi is very important on Cat engines with injectors. Looks like you measured fuel psi before the secondary filter. I always check it after secondary filter. Fuel temp., is important. For every 10 F above 85 at the secondary fuel filter base you loose one percent HP. ECM compensates up to a certain temp. Fuel temp gets to high, injector failure occurs. Fuel coolers are a must on single tank electronic engines. Always check with ET, FRC, rated fuel limit and fuel position. This will let you know if you have a air problem, your in derate or ECM has given the command to turn fuel on, depending on load factor and boost. I tell the younger tech's on a stone cold engine, look at all your temps, they all should be close to ambient. Back psi is a problem sometimes, as with newer engines catalyst and DPF's raised these numbers from the old straight pipe days. IVA engines, when they act up will cause issues as well. A chassis dyno is a must, with ET, fuel flow rate, back psi, inlet restriction, fuel API, turbo psi, fuel psi, fuel temp, inlet manifold temp. I agree that the younger tech's who did not learn from the mechanical days are at a disadvantage. A customer would come in with a complaint and you had to figure it out. Even with the newer engines, I explain to them you have to determine if you have a electrical failure or a mechanical failure. No matter how much electronics is added. Some where under that hood is a crankshaft and pistons.
Fuel temp is very important - especially when running #1 diesel or like in some equipment around airports - jet fuel. In the far north they run DFA - Diesel Fuel Artic grade. The temperature your most interested in is the vaporaziation temp. The lighter the grade of fuel the lower temp it will vaporize .. if the fuel gets too warm the vacuum caused by the fuel supply pump sucking from the tank will cause vaporization in the supply line. Cummins used to have these little 2 or 3 gallon day tanks .. they were using DFA at a radar site in Barrow Alaska- the machines were having problems carrying load .. even after I debated the engines because of the lack of btu's due to the fuel grade ... I use a refrigeration sight glass to troubleshoot air suction problems... the engine would run cold just fine then bubbles would start appearing in the suction to the pump... turned out the return fuel would raise the fuel temp in the day tank to a point that would allow it to vaporize in the suction line... the fix was to install a 50 gallon day tank - course this was in the artic - I'm pretty sure that with this summertime heat the fuel temps are running close to vaporization temp. When that happens besides not getting an accurate fuel delivery you loose lubrication to the injector... so running a fuel cooler and a additive to increase lubrication will make those spendy fuel system parts last a long time. I recommend marvel mystery oil ... it's good down to -40 in the cold too.. have fun and stay safe
Josh my husband is working o a 953c bbx 3126b it was missing and turbo boost was showing 5 psi loaded high idle on et. had one code low voltage sensor non specific. 3 injectors bad they were replaced it got rid of the miss. turbo still was 5 psi replaced it 1t came up to 10 psi. the first thing that was done he made a air to air check tube and block off no air getting lost. when i rehooked and started it after replacing the injectors the active code was gone on the low voltage. injector activation 1160 high idle 4400. what next please help
Thank you very much for your videos they have helped me a number of times, i wonder if you could give me advice i am having a really hard time with a c7 engine i flashed the ecm for more rpms. Everything ok for five miles, the truck failed with (no eng) on dash, the ecm fuse was blown i replaced on the spot and still wont start, injectors not working. My question is what could cause the fuse to blow and no start problem? Could something have failed or shorted to blow the fuse? And still wont start after the fuse was replaced? I would really apreciate any advice i had my truck just sitting on the road for 3 days.
Great info. I have one maybe u can add info to. Replace head 2 pistons and 2 injectors. Now truck has no power on top side of trans. Has 75 psi fuel and 23 psi boost. Does not miss. But no one can figure it out. And no codes
There were no check engine lights back in the day, I am damn good on the old stuff , I can tell by listening to it. I am well versed in the late 90's early 2000's stuff and that is it for me. New stuff I will ask someone, when an old mechanical beast goes down and I get called, they ask me, how the fuck did you know... I could tell by the sound
Good info man. I drive a 12v, but have friends with computer controlled diesels, who call me all the damn time to come fix their ragged out shit lmao thanks dude love the vids idk how you talk to a camera like that, skill!
I know your area of expertise is with Caterpillar engines, but this little story involves 60-series engines. I found out that the boost pressure sensor won't throw a code. Except for the older "junkers" I drove in my early days (71's and 92's), I had mostly Caterpillar experience (3306b, 3406b, 3176, and much later, C13) until my then-boss started buying those gawdawful ovloV things. In 1999, mine came with a 12.7L series-60. In the four years of hell driving that truck, I had no less than 14 boost pressure sensors. Turned out that the air intake tended to swallow a lot of rainwater, and the boost pressure sensor ended up sipping some of it (extreme moisture) and filling up to the point of no longer activating. It only manifested itself as a problem when you were working the engine, loading it. Couldn't reproduce the problem at a standstill. Well, after 4 years of ovloV hell, I gave my notice to that employer after 14 yrs total. Next job, I started with a Penske yellowbird. My very first trip out, I get 4hrs away from home and it does the exact same thing, so my first thought was "Oh no...., another effin' boost pressure sensor.". So the next day, I'm still dealing with this annoyance, I call up Penske to describe the problem. Of course, you get someone in a call center, who is supposed to be an experienced technician, well some of the guys you speak to can really understand your interpretations over the phone, some guys (who might be awesome technicians) do not do well at interpreting a driver's description of a problem. In defense of Penske (and ALL techs/mechs out there), Penske does have a policy of not making judgement calls over the phone based solely on the description or complaint of a driver, about a truck. They like to have one of their own hands confirm the existence of the problem and make a diagnosis before they will go ordering parts. So, despite my describing the problem of intermittent power while under load AND suspecting the boost pressure sensor, they wouldn't bring one to where I was, but they did send out one of their techs in a service truck. He even brought a laptop and plugged into the truck, yielded absolutely nothing. So, again, I brought up the BPS theory, and he mentioned that Penske SOS had relayed that from my phone call to the work order and explained that even if he'd wanted to bring one, they had none on the shelf at his (local Penske) shop. He did pull out a 5/16" wrench and spin off the little bolts that held the BPS on the intake manifold. It immediately began to slobber water once he broke it free of the seal where it had been mated to the intake. He looked at me, and said "You could be on to something." I replied "Been here fourteen times already." Since my return load was only an hour up the road and took me by a Detroit parts and service shop (which was also the Penske supplier), he agreed to follow me to this Penske shop to get a boost sensor. I asked him if he'd care to drive the truck (trailer was now empty), so he did drive it for the first 6 miles while I followed in his service truck. We stopped at a wide spot beside the road, and he asked me how I had managed to get the thing to where I had delivered WITH a LOAD on, but anyways, on we went the other ten miles to the Detroit shop. They had the sensor, he installed it, and that truck was golden after that. I'll never know (or care) if merely unplugging the harness to the BPS would cause a code to be thrown, but merely getting moisture in them won't cause a code. And many many thanks to the old fellow (at an ovloV dealer in Harrisonburg, Va) who finally figured out the very first one, after I had visited numerous ovloV shops up and down the East Coast trying to figure out the problem when it first occurred.
Josh, you should have a class or a three day weekend seminar every year and i betchu it would be packed! Real good stuff my brudda 👌. Oh yeah and you could sell a buncha cool CAT stuff like that hat you were wearing because CAT would be a sponsor? Oh and CAT could sell a few parts at lower trade show prices? Wishful thinking? 🤔 Or just straight dreaming? 😴😪 Lmao...
I drive a 07 international 8600 with a C13 Acert in it. The truck was assigned to after it had been pulled from another driver. I went to check the oil in it and noticed that the oil level was considerably low probably about a quarter of an inch below the low line on the dip stick. The truck also blows white smoke from time to time. I can’t find anywhere on the block or around the valve cover where it could be leaking oil and there aren’t any oil spots on the ground under it after sitting for a weekend. What do you think could be causing the oil consumption? Thanks.
97 powerstroke throwing a MAP sensor fault MAP ohms read correct New clamps applied checked hose for leaks Diagnosis 3 injectors down Turbine not pushing the compressor fast enough to develop proper pressure out of the compressor PCM equates it to a leak in the MAP tube. Come to find out injectors taken out by turbo seals and thrust bearing wear causing turbo to be changing its shape by rubbing the Turbine and compressor housings. Lots of small metal particulate thrown down the intake and pushing boost into the crank case causing massive smoking and a large puddle at the end of the tail pipe!
03 7.3 powerstroke just replace turbo I need to place pedal rebuild kit but egt are 200/250 idle and it’s at about 6-800 normal just doing 100km now I don’t know if just a Radom but no load going up hill it will climb 1000 and I let off because I think it’s to high and now the egt are all over the map
1996, 3176 engine. Idling in the shop waiting for air to build it just quit. As 50 lb PSI fuel pressure while cranking ECM terminals have current and ground as I believe we're needed any thoughts. ECM?
Hey i have a question . first i done own a cat or anything related but i Do own a cummins 6.7L . and my question is . Do you have a scaner recomended yo Do diagnostic non snap on something lower price maybe 2 to 300 ?
I have a 3126 cat starts for 10mins ands shuts down i see when temp gets to 130 degrees it shut off . I changed the crank sensor , Aip valve and actuation pressure sensor, took the top chk injector seals, injectors don't miss , could the relays on firewall be problem? But the actuction presure is not cat part .
I have a problem on c11 caterpillar engine in the morning they spray the engine before they start the machine is atlas mobile crusher and they said they put load inside the engine sound does not raise
I start my Acert C15.. it starts right away... cuts out, then resumes without issue... but i fear it is a precursor to something more important. what do you think?
I just had my dpf cleaned I reinstalled it now I have a big lose of power . It also blows smoke out of the exhaust not all the time just in moments . It also overheated what do you think is going on ,turbo ?
How many times can you rebuild a C15 ASERT? Mine has 1.75 on it now. It had a Platinum done by Joplin Cat at 1.1 and I’m not sure if I can rebuild it again or not?
I got a question. I have a problem with my truck Chevrolet 3500 with a Diesel engine 6.6L Duramax. I tried to pull the upper oil pan, it’s 4 wheel dive I no pulled the 24 bolts and it’s still tight and the oil pan won’t come down. Any help?
Man I’ve been having so much trouble with a c15 a CERT I have invested over $20,000 in my engine still does not run properly I have 50 psi of boost but whenever I am on a full load uphill my turbo boost seems not to stay high which brings me down to 5545 sometimes 40 mph
Josh I have a question on a 2003 7.3 powerstroke. Or someone who knows these engines. First off I’m from Canada Alberta northern winters are cold -30 -40 most winter and my 7.3 has 730,000km on it started to hard start last winter I change the glow plugs and glow plug relay Now I’ve got oil in my coolant and I’ve replaced the oil cooler gaskets and still happening so I replaced the oil cooler and put new rings and gaskets and still oil in the coolant. Even says oh just a bad oil cooler. No check engine light and doesn’t smoke or smell like coolant out of the exhaust. I still think I have a head gasket and I will be changeing my injectors out for news.
I'm sure you've probably been asked this before but ive either missed it or cant find it, what are your opinions on the c4.4 acert, are they any good or should i stay clear of them, I'm m looking to put it in a 4x4 for a project
I have a cat c7 engine that throws no codes. as soon as the temperature reaches 150 degrees it loses all power any tips? when this happens, it won't go past 1300 rpm
Hi josh i have a toyota estima diesal which turns to heat up after a mile drive. it turned out that theres no coolent in radiator.so i wait for atleast 2hours to cool down.then i refilled the radiator.but when starting the car theres a loud knocking sound in the engine almost sound like a hammer hitting a metal.do you know whats wrong??
Life before high tech no headaches and no stress every machine ran, now it's all inefficient and truly expensive, don't give up yet electric drives are coming soon to make it harder.
Josh I am a mechanic about to open my owen shop in jamaica . So i will be working on multiple brands of engines can you recommend a scan tool that would be able to scan multiple brands of diesel engines E.C.M.
Just deleted my sdp, turned it up to 625hp. Loved it but it scared the crap out of me. My rears started spinning on me at 16th gear on wet roads, I got 3.36 rears. Turned it back down to 475. Also didn't want to hurt my engine, been told it wouldn't have harmed it but don't want to risk it. But man did it wake it up!!! Feels like a new truck, also my turbos spool up like nobody's business.
Hi I got 2005 volvo d12 engine smokeing white. And no check engine light only smoke some time on a 2 gear with 14/15 rpm.....took to the shop change 3 injector and cylinder head and much more stuff cost around 12k and still smoke.....
Good video 👍🏾 ? I have a C15 acert twin turbo & want too go to a single turbo what’s your opinion on it or the best advice on it without blowing a head gasket
07 Detroit 60 series losing power on highway with light load , no codes and turbo actually sounds good, had mechanic check it over and could not find any problems....ANY SUGGESTIONS...in NC area
You Josh are exactly what us truckers and other diesel owners need......a real "mechanic" keep up the good work and teachings. Thanks again
Im going to move, get a place next to this guys mechanic shop, so i can sound sleep at every night
knowing he's got me covered
I admit one thing is that I go to favorite channels that pertain to my interests at my age... 73 and it is very hard to set and listen to things that do educate me but I will never be able to do again and that was my whole life.. wrenching. I loved being a fair mechanic as I came up in a area that didn't require as much collage as practical experience but then I do like your channel because you make it easy to learn from. I wanted to share one that I don't know if Cat has one but might. I was working on a motorhome and when I sent it out, I informed him no charge as I could not find it. So he leaves and I forget about it. Then he is back and he says; Your the go to guy when no one else can find it. That hits the sweet spot and so up again for the challenge, I interrogate my customer... when does it do what? He says rough roads, pulling into driveway, etc., so I start by checking then rechecking and nothing. So I hand him back hiskey and he puts it in his pocket and uses the keys in his hands. As he did that, a light went off in my head... wait for a minute please... and so he stops and asks me why. I asked him to move over and he did so I take it for a short drive and no problems until I pulled into my shop area... I asked him, do you have spendy rims? He laughs and said no. So I curbed it and the engine stubbled and it was apparent he didn't like being bumped around by the cuss words then a "how did you do that, make it do it again. I told him your keys are talking to the truck! I pulled it into the shop and checked the knock senor and then when it checked out changed it anyway. It fixed it but hiskey chain must of weighed ten pounds of grand kid toys and they rattled on the dash. I took the keys out and pulled the important key off and then told him to give it al the same trouble places without the key chain then try it with them again and bingo, that was it. Even though it was better with the new knock senor, it would do it intermittently and so his precious toys went in the pocket and a key went into the ignition
This is a lost art. Nowadays every tech is a pro parts replaced and throws thousands of someone else’s hard earned dollars at a problem they don’t truly understand.
Yes
Electronic controls and check engine lights has resulted in a bunch of parts replacers...gasoline engines too. A good mechanic goes OLD SCHOOL...the engine operates, essentially, the same as the non electronic version. That's why you are exemplary in your field. Damn good job!
you know i took alot of advice from josh here and several of the master techs at the shop and my career has drastically improved watching these videos and applying them to doing end frames and diagnosis currently i am swapping out a 3406E cat and its had a long list of problems and also engine damage but i just wanted to say thank you just helping open my mind up
Good luck bud
You are a real technician not a parts changer. Great video.
Another great video from my favorite diesel RUclips channel
Thanks for giving me the confidence to think outside the box when it comes to problems. Been watching your videos for a bit and I feel like I am getting stronger at with my abilities. Keep making great content like this!
Thànks for taking time out to help us old school folks that don't dig all the so-called "hi tech improvements that plague my friends that think that new is always the best route...
I'm 60 yrs ok old, and only run older Cat equipment with no computers, wires, or dummie lights to tell you there's a issue...
99% of the time I know something is wrong before it becomes an issue ...I run a like new ,low hours 1968 Cat D7E Dozer, a low hour 1986 Cat D4E, a 1976 Cat 225 with low hours, a 93 Pete 379, low milage 3406b.... And I wouldn't trade any of them for a new disposable lightweight pos that is always in the shop ...
Really like your informative videos. But i love my 96 mech CAT 3406c 8pn, alleviates a lot of the electrical "what if". Also installed Air Dog mechanical air separator on fuel filter housing after watching your video relating to fuel mileage. Immediate improvement to throttle response, intake manifold psi improved from 15-18, full throttle under load to 20-25. Over 50% decrease in black exhaust, and since i have more manifold psi, I'm not in the throttle as much or as hard (full throttle). Giving it several weeks to see how much fuel mileage changes. Keep up the good work Josh. Thanks.
You are a true life saver. I’ve been watching your videos all the way in the Caribbean and there’s no one out there like you. Keep teaching.
JOSH..THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE
Wow... didn't realize you received so many eMails every day. Makes me feel bad about sending you a lengthy eMail about my issue. I learn a lot from your videos, so thanks for taking the time to create them... gives me some good ideas on troubleshooting. If nothing else, and I haven't discovered a solution to my problem, one day maybe I'll be able to swing by and let you snap some photos for your Destruction of the Week segment. HA!
God I love this content, and thanks for bringing back the destruction of the week!
Josh wish I had seen this video a month ago. Had a gmc 6500 with a c7in it towed in to shop. Crank no start. Did all the standard checks and fuel psi was very low. Replaced lift pump same thought bad new pump. Replaced again no change.I did notice coolant temp was stuck at around 170. After several calls to cat tech line I was assured that was not my issue. Well said the hell with it got a new sensor and it started. Live and learn lol
Thank you so much for these videos man! I'm trying to troubleshoot my Jeep XJ 2.5L diesel, and this helps a lot!
Your diagnosis skills are awesome man
Thanks for the in-depth discussion!!!!
nice! but i would like to see more hands on videos.. Cheerz
Always interesting Josh thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺
Another excellent video, very informative mate , keep them coming 👍👍
I have a '05 freight w/detroit 60 14L. At idle it almost feels like its missing but rpms never fluctuate. Any weight added, even empty flatbed, i lose all power and engine shake/miss gets extremely worse. Does not smoke. New turbo, VPod, EGR, wiring harnesses, and turbo boost sensor
Even though I have n14’s Cummins I LOVE your video’s
I have a 6 cyl Fiat Iveco diesel engine, done 248000 klms, it had 6 or 8 thousands dollars spent on it, the inline injector pump and injectors were rebuilt, has a reconditioned head, engine not running on all 6 cylinders, the customer gave up and left the truck to rot, after 15 plus years of sitting it started first go after testing and cleaning the fuel system but still misfiring, I took the motor apart, it had 1 good piston, 2 had broken compression rings, 1 liner had a leak into the sump, the work was done by a reputed truck mechanics workshop and they couldn't fix the issue, I work on diesel engines, self trained, I found the problems.
Well. Most mechanics are just like lawyers and dentists, they thrive on people's miseries. When someone's miseries are hard to come by, they may always try to the tried and tested diagnostic procedure of misdiagnosing and prolonging the suffering until their luck changes. Questionably yours, Mr haunting nightmare.
Fuel pressure gauge should be considered mandatory equipment. If not equipped, add one, actually add a couple. One post filter, and one on the rail. Snapshot could be handy for those intermittent hard to replicate issues. Didn't know about that.
I completely agree, it is so important and nearly everyone doesn't have one.
Adept Ape hey man how are you do you know if you have to pull the cylinder head off the truck in order to replace the followers on a 2000 c12
You da man Josh! Unfortunately the young mechanics are just taught to read the code scanner and replace the sensors and nothing more. You have to be methodical and be able to imagine the complete circuit and what could be obstructing it . Thanks for another great video!
I had an acert that had intermittent problems and I would have loved to talk to you back then but still love to listen to you comments
Josh your a special person thanks all the the great. Info/ help
Related to example no.1 its Cold Mode all mxs and nxs has its just inbuilt cat ecm setup nothing is wrong to eliminate white smoke its cat answer , I have seen tens of engines but few programed ecms by good programmer doesn't have, to deal with warm up the engine 168° atleast before moving or if you forget don't press accelerator heavily and keep it over 1400rpm until temperature reaches.
Yes i had a c12 lost both sensors but i dont think they failed at the same time it would start and die in the morning but he wanted to haul gravel half way through the summer and died down the road from my place as i remember it had codes for both i replaced both and it ran like a champ.
i thought that you meant troubleshooting a diesel with no cel. like an old truck without an ecm either way watched the whole thing very informative. i have a 3406b that i’m working on would love to see more on the old motors if possible. either way love your channel
Thats what Josh examined me .
Love your videos brother
Thought this video was about fixing a diesel when the check engine light goes out. Loved it nevertheless
My friend has a cat called diesel. What would your advice be if there is no check engine light but constant meowing and scratching?
@@xMIEESHIx Ah awesome, I'll try that. Thanks!
😳😀😁😂
@@xMIEESHIx So I took your advice and did what you said, but now there is a 'check balls' light on my dash - what should I do?
Take it to a vet and has it put down for good. That will solve the problem quick and easy.
@@ZylonFPV if you ever see anything that you should not see, try doing to yourself what you can do to that problematic cat. Best wishes.
A good mechanic isn't expensive, they're priceless.
Without a compression test, how can you tell a engine is worn out? I have a Cat 3176 with 700k miles and throttle response is slow both up and down. It takes a whole second to drop 500 rpm to be able shift. Would a higher compression engine be more snappy? Or is it just a 3176?
How much blow-by is you engine producing out of the crank case vent? It's a place to start.
One subjective method to check compression is to compare the ease/difficulty of manually turning over the engine with the difficulty of turning it over when it was fairly new.
traveling tech- it does have blow by, but for 700k miles I don't think it is excessive. I've driven some where the rpm drops so fast its hard to time the shift into gear. Mine if I pull a hill off a red light, I lose so much wheel speed waiting for rpm drop that I can hardly maintain enough rpm for the higher gear. The biggest problem is it has a 9 speed and big ratio difference between gears.
A good mechanic is cheaper than a cheap mechanic.
PRODIGY Adept Ape
Thanks for sharing what you know with us great video, take care and have a great day. PRODIGY Adept Ape
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Very helpful always
Awesome video! 👍
I have run a PAR test on a 3406B and with 5 Lbs of fuel psi it was putting 500 HP to the flywheel. Fuel psi is very important on Cat engines with injectors. Looks like you measured fuel psi before the secondary filter. I always check it after secondary filter.
Fuel temp., is important. For every 10 F above 85 at the secondary fuel filter base you loose one percent HP. ECM compensates up to a certain temp. Fuel temp gets to high, injector failure occurs. Fuel coolers are a must on single tank electronic engines.
Always check with ET, FRC, rated fuel limit and fuel position. This will let you know if you have a air problem, your in derate or ECM has given the command to turn fuel on, depending on load factor and boost.
I tell the younger tech's on a stone cold engine, look at all your temps, they all should be close to ambient.
Back psi is a problem sometimes, as with newer engines catalyst and DPF's raised these numbers from the old straight pipe days.
IVA engines, when they act up will cause issues as well.
A chassis dyno is a must, with ET, fuel flow rate, back psi, inlet restriction, fuel API, turbo psi, fuel psi, fuel temp, inlet manifold temp.
I agree that the younger tech's who did not learn from the mechanical days are at a disadvantage. A customer would come in with a complaint and you had to figure it out. Even with the newer engines, I explain to them you have to determine if you have a electrical failure or a mechanical failure.
No matter how much electronics is added. Some where under that hood is a crankshaft and pistons.
Fuel temp is very important - especially when running #1 diesel or like in some equipment around airports - jet fuel. In the far north they run DFA - Diesel Fuel Artic grade. The temperature your most interested in is the vaporaziation temp. The lighter the grade of fuel the lower temp it will vaporize .. if the fuel gets too warm the vacuum caused by the fuel supply pump sucking from the tank will cause vaporization in the supply line. Cummins used to have these little 2 or 3 gallon day tanks .. they were using DFA at a radar site in Barrow Alaska- the machines were having problems carrying load .. even after I debated the engines because of the lack of btu's due to the fuel grade ... I use a refrigeration sight glass to troubleshoot air suction problems... the engine would run cold just fine then bubbles would start appearing in the suction to the pump... turned out the return fuel would raise the fuel temp in the day tank to a point that would allow it to vaporize in the suction line... the fix was to install a 50 gallon day tank - course this was in the artic - I'm pretty sure that with this summertime heat the fuel temps are running close to vaporization temp. When that happens besides not getting an accurate fuel delivery you loose lubrication to the injector... so running a fuel cooler and a additive to increase lubrication will make those spendy fuel system parts last a long time. I recommend marvel mystery oil ... it's good down to -40 in the cold too.. have fun and stay safe
Josh my husband is working o a 953c bbx 3126b it was missing and turbo boost was showing 5 psi loaded high idle on et. had one code low voltage sensor non specific. 3 injectors bad they were replaced it got rid of the miss. turbo still was 5 psi replaced it 1t came up to 10 psi. the first thing that was done he made a air to air check tube and block off no air getting lost. when i rehooked and started it after replacing the injectors the active code was gone on the low voltage. injector activation 1160 high idle 4400. what next please help
Thank you very much for your videos they have helped me a number of times, i wonder if you could give me advice i am having a really hard time with a c7 engine i flashed the ecm for more rpms. Everything ok for five miles, the truck failed with (no eng) on dash, the ecm fuse was blown i replaced on the spot and still wont start, injectors not working. My question is what could cause the fuse to blow and no start problem? Could something have failed or shorted to blow the fuse? And still wont start after the fuse was replaced? I would really apreciate any advice i had my truck just sitting on the road for 3 days.
Great info keep up the good work
Great video.!👍
Josh u r a genius thx for video
Real pro josh
Great info. I have one maybe u can add info to. Replace head 2 pistons and 2 injectors. Now truck has no power on top side of trans. Has 75 psi fuel and 23 psi boost. Does not miss. But no one can figure it out. And no codes
It’s a c 12 cat
I’ve been fighting a crank no start with a Maxxforce for weeks now with no codes and all pressures and temp and voltages good
There were no check engine lights back in the day, I am damn good on the old stuff , I can tell by listening to it. I am well versed in the late 90's early 2000's stuff and that is it for me. New stuff I will ask someone, when an old mechanical beast goes down and I get called, they ask me, how the fuck did you know... I could tell by the sound
Another great video josh. Keep the cat videos coming.
Someday maybe I'll grow up and be a mechanic, till then I'll keep driving.
Good info man. I drive a 12v, but have friends with computer controlled diesels, who call me all the damn time to come fix their ragged out shit lmao thanks dude love the vids idk how you talk to a camera like that, skill!
Good video thanks
Where's a good place to find service manuals on 920 wheel loader. Like maybe a free one.
Excellent
I know your area of expertise is with Caterpillar engines, but this little story involves 60-series engines. I found out that the boost pressure sensor won't throw a code. Except for the older "junkers" I drove in my early days (71's and 92's), I had mostly Caterpillar experience (3306b, 3406b, 3176, and much later, C13) until my then-boss started buying those gawdawful ovloV things. In 1999, mine came with a 12.7L series-60. In the four years of hell driving that truck, I had no less than 14 boost pressure sensors. Turned out that the air intake tended to swallow a lot of rainwater, and the boost pressure sensor ended up sipping some of it (extreme moisture) and filling up to the point of no longer activating. It only manifested itself as a problem when you were working the engine, loading it. Couldn't reproduce the problem at a standstill. Well, after 4 years of ovloV hell, I gave my notice to that employer after 14 yrs total. Next job, I started with a Penske yellowbird. My very first trip out, I get 4hrs away from home and it does the exact same thing, so my first thought was "Oh no...., another effin' boost pressure sensor.". So the next day, I'm still dealing with this annoyance, I call up Penske to describe the problem. Of course, you get someone in a call center, who is supposed to be an experienced technician, well some of the guys you speak to can really understand your interpretations over the phone, some guys (who might be awesome technicians) do not do well at interpreting a driver's description of a problem. In defense of Penske (and ALL techs/mechs out there), Penske does have a policy of not making judgement calls over the phone based solely on the description or complaint of a driver, about a truck. They like to have one of their own hands confirm the existence of the problem and make a diagnosis before they will go ordering parts. So, despite my describing the problem of intermittent power while under load AND suspecting the boost pressure sensor, they wouldn't bring one to where I was, but they did send out one of their techs in a service truck. He even brought a laptop and plugged into the truck, yielded absolutely nothing. So, again, I brought up the BPS theory, and he mentioned that Penske SOS had relayed that from my phone call to the work order and explained that even if he'd wanted to bring one, they had none on the shelf at his (local Penske) shop. He did pull out a 5/16" wrench and spin off the little bolts that held the BPS on the intake manifold. It immediately began to slobber water once he broke it free of the seal where it had been mated to the intake. He looked at me, and said "You could be on to something." I replied "Been here fourteen times already." Since my return load was only an hour up the road and took me by a Detroit parts and service shop (which was also the Penske supplier), he agreed to follow me to this Penske shop to get a boost sensor. I asked him if he'd care to drive the truck (trailer was now empty), so he did drive it for the first 6 miles while I followed in his service truck. We stopped at a wide spot beside the road, and he asked me how I had managed to get the thing to where I had delivered WITH a LOAD on, but anyways, on we went the other ten miles to the Detroit shop. They had the sensor, he installed it, and that truck was golden after that. I'll never know (or care) if merely unplugging the harness to the BPS would cause a code to be thrown, but merely getting moisture in them won't cause a code. And many many thanks to the old fellow (at an ovloV dealer in Harrisonburg, Va) who finally figured out the very first one, after I had visited numerous ovloV shops up and down the East Coast trying to figure out the problem when it first occurred.
That’s strange. My 2000 12.7 has 812K on it and as far as I know it’s never had a BPS. It’s never had water in the intake either though.
This electrical stuff on these newer truck sucks!
Josh, you should have a class or a three day weekend seminar every year and i betchu it would be packed! Real good stuff my brudda 👌. Oh yeah and you could sell a buncha cool CAT stuff like that hat you were wearing because CAT would be a sponsor? Oh and CAT could sell a few parts at lower trade show prices? Wishful thinking? 🤔 Or just straight dreaming? 😴😪 Lmao...
Would be a good idea actually, could probably get few people to show up. I'm not sure how planning that out would work exactly, but maybe one day.
Good staff. CAN WE DO SNAPSHOT IN MACHINES, DIGGERS etc.??? Wish to know.
In cooler climates I've had actuators make the engine skip and buck until operating temp.
Thanks for taking the time to go through some troubleshooting ! Great vid.
I drive a 07 international 8600 with a C13 Acert in it. The truck was assigned to after it had been pulled from another driver. I went to check the oil in it and noticed that the oil level was considerably low probably about a quarter of an inch below the low line on the dip stick. The truck also blows white smoke from time to time. I can’t find anywhere on the block or around the valve cover where it could be leaking oil and there aren’t any oil spots on the ground under it after sitting for a weekend. What do you think could be causing the oil consumption? Thanks.
97 powerstroke throwing a MAP sensor fault
MAP ohms read correct
New clamps applied
checked hose for leaks
Diagnosis
3 injectors down
Turbine not pushing the compressor fast enough to develop proper pressure out of the compressor
PCM equates it to a leak in the MAP tube.
Come to find out injectors taken out by turbo seals and thrust bearing wear causing turbo to be changing its shape by rubbing the Turbine and compressor housings. Lots of small metal particulate thrown down the intake and pushing boost into the crank case causing massive smoking and a large puddle at the end of the tail pipe!
03 7.3 powerstroke just replace turbo I need to place pedal rebuild kit but egt are 200/250 idle and it’s at about 6-800 normal just doing 100km now I don’t know if just a Radom but no load going up hill it will climb 1000 and I let off because I think it’s to high and now the egt are all over the map
1996, 3176 engine.
Idling in the shop waiting for air to build it just quit. As 50 lb PSI fuel pressure while cranking ECM terminals have current and ground as I believe we're needed any thoughts. ECM?
Hey i have a question . first i done own a cat or anything related but i Do own a cummins 6.7L . and my question is . Do you have a scaner recomended yo Do diagnostic non snap on something lower price maybe 2 to 300 ?
I have a 3126 cat starts for 10mins ands shuts down i see when temp gets to 130 degrees it shut off . I changed the crank sensor , Aip valve and actuation pressure sensor, took the top chk injector seals, injectors don't miss , could the relays on firewall be problem? But the actuction presure is not cat part .
You the best bro
Thank you.
CHEERS FOR THE VID
What's a good universal fuel pressure gauge to buy for diesel engines?
I have a problem on c11 caterpillar engine in the morning they spray the engine before they start the machine is atlas mobile crusher and they said they put load inside the engine sound does not raise
I start my Acert C15.. it starts right away... cuts out, then resumes without issue... but i fear it is a precursor to something more important. what do you think?
Hey I got a 05 chevy duramax LLY the fuel pressure sensor reads 207-223 psi wit truck off would this cause hard starts and limp mode
my problem of C4.2 THE INJECTORS WERE FUEL KNOCKING, WHAT IS THE PROBABLE FAILURES
Good video
I just had my dpf cleaned I reinstalled it now I have a big lose of power . It also blows smoke out of the exhaust not all the time just in moments . It also overheated what do you think is going on ,turbo ?
How many times can you rebuild a C15 ASERT? Mine has 1.75 on it now. It had a Platinum done by Joplin Cat at 1.1 and I’m not sure if I can rebuild it again or not?
I got a question. I have a problem with my truck Chevrolet 3500 with a Diesel engine 6.6L Duramax. I tried to pull the upper oil pan, it’s 4 wheel dive I no pulled the 24 bolts and it’s still tight and the oil pan won’t come down. Any help?
Can you explain what the precooler is for
Man I’ve been having so much trouble with a c15 a CERT I have invested over $20,000 in my engine still does not run properly I have 50 psi of boost but whenever I am on a full load uphill my turbo boost seems not to stay high which brings me down to 5545 sometimes 40 mph
Josh I have a question on a 2003 7.3 powerstroke. Or someone who knows these engines. First off I’m from Canada Alberta northern winters are cold -30 -40 most winter and my 7.3 has 730,000km on it started to hard start last winter I change the glow plugs and glow plug relay Now I’ve got oil in my coolant and I’ve replaced the oil cooler gaskets and still happening so I replaced the oil cooler and put new rings and gaskets and still oil in the coolant. Even says oh just a bad oil cooler. No check engine light and doesn’t smoke or smell like coolant out of the exhaust. I still think I have a head gasket and I will be changeing my injectors out for news.
Hey uh I got a motor that runs great on gas but terrible on diesel. I check the spark plugs they are fouled but good. What's wrong?
I'm sure you've probably been asked this before but ive either missed it or cant find it, what are your opinions on the c4.4 acert, are they any good or should i stay clear of them, I'm m looking to put it in a 4x4 for a project
I have a cat c7 engine that throws no codes. as soon as the temperature reaches 150 degrees it loses all power any tips? when this happens, it won't go past 1300 rpm
Hi josh i have a toyota estima diesal which turns to heat up after a mile drive. it turned out that theres no coolent in radiator.so i wait for atleast 2hours to cool down.then i refilled the radiator.but when starting the car theres a loud knocking sound in the engine almost sound like a hammer hitting a metal.do you know whats wrong??
Life before high tech no headaches and no stress every machine ran, now it's all inefficient and truly expensive, don't give up yet electric drives are coming soon to make it harder.
Josh...gonna get you a subscription to Dollar Shave Club bro...lol
Josh I am a mechanic about to open my owen shop in jamaica . So i will be working on multiple brands of engines can you recommend a scan tool that would be able to scan multiple brands of diesel engines E.C.M.
My check engine light doesn’t work. I have a 2006 W900. When I turn the key on it doesn’t cycle the check engine light. Any ideals on how to fix it?
We understand you but I have D4D 2.5 no engen light when I stain on the key and it doesn’t start at all 😢
Man my truck spit oil from the exhaust ....
And when I change the oil pan gasket, I find I a washer in the oil pan ???
Could IVA fail with no check engine light?
I have a diesel truck. What runs, but it Tries to die out. But it stays running?
Just deleted my sdp, turned it up to 625hp. Loved it but it scared the crap out of me. My rears started spinning on me at 16th gear on wet roads, I got 3.36 rears. Turned it back down to 475. Also didn't want to hurt my engine, been told it wouldn't have harmed it but don't want to risk it. But man did it wake it up!!! Feels like a new truck, also my turbos spool up like nobody's business.
Hi I got 2005 volvo d12 engine smokeing white. And no check engine light only smoke some time on a 2 gear with 14/15 rpm.....took to the shop change 3 injector and cylinder head and much more stuff cost around 12k and still smoke.....
Can u figure my problem
Good video 👍🏾 ? I have a C15 acert twin turbo & want too go to a single turbo what’s your opinion on it or the best advice on it without blowing a head gasket
Don't do it
Wow
07 Detroit 60 series losing power on highway with light load , no codes and turbo actually sounds good, had mechanic check it over and could not find any problems....ANY SUGGESTIONS...in NC area
I have the similar problem 12.7 D60 takes forever to accelerate until tach reach 1350 after that no problem let us know what you end up with
Anything?
Good video s
Diesel. Ah. Diesel. Quite a different beast.