Should You Warm Up A Diesel Engine?
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- Diesel Engines are great for pulling power and fuel efficiency, but only when they are up to operating temperature. What is the best way warm them up to operating temperature. Should you let them idle, high idle, or drive them? @AdeptApe on Venmo or AdeptApe@yahoo.com on PayPal for donations, thank you so much for supporting the channel!
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Just re-subscribed (not sure what happened there). I like the destruction of the week segment. Thanks for sharing the view from your neck of the woods (garage).
Glad you enjoy the videos.
briansmobile1 n
@Adept Ape just a passer by here. My dude you speak Real...ly slo.w. i can only watch you in 1.5 x speed.
Cho e xin Thông sô chỉnh catepila C15 va 18 a
@@Ishiku__aka_xchoibitschibihil I now watch most RUclips videos at 2x speed because of this. Doing this also allows me to take in more information in less time.
When I start my diesel on a cold January morning, I let it idle 'till about May.
And still no heat for defrost LOL
You must drive a Ford
Lol likewise. My Ford starts rough but warms better, my cummins starts great but takes forever to get to somewhat decent temp
Sounds about right except my ford takes till March to start
You must drive a Chrysler 😂😂😂😂
I've been operating diesel engines in Canada for most of my life. Typically I wait for the oil pressure to change ( 2min approx) then just drive away gently until the temp gauge starts coming up. You confirmed my method. Thanks bro.
Sitting in the Alps with my diesel car. Same opinion here - best #Greetz :D
I do EXACTLY the same, and always have, even in the uk.
you wait for the oil pressure to change? what does that mean?
@@grasscutter88 Oil drains back to the oil pan when the engine is off. When it is really cold out and the oil is the consistency of honey or even peanut butter it takes a while for the oil pump to suck it up and pump it through the engine. It could be well over a minute if it is like -40 degrees out. So on an older vehicle with an actual reliable oil pressure gauge waiting to increase engine speed above idle until it moves form zero to normal is a really good idea. These days most gauges in cars and light trucks are more like fancy idiot gauges that mostly read normal all of the time unless something is really wrong, so it may not be as reliable of a method.
@@clarkstonguy1065Even at those temperatures oil is circulated in seconds. Put simply if the oil light is out the oil is circulated.
My wife can turn the key, release the E brake, put it in reverse and back out completely from the garage before the 8th cylinder has fired. You can tell them tell your blue in the face. They just don't understand or care !
At least she used the e-brake!
Time to get you a new wife, problem solved.
They have the internet that tells them that its not necessarily necessary. So theirs that.
@Hello Newman I didn't say I agreed. My wife is the one who moves the car before the last cylinder fires. Now it uses a quart and a half between oil changes.
@Hello Newman I'm not.
She's nice .Doesn't have any vices is a really good cook. And she's still pretty although she could stop a clock when she was younger.
But I just can't get her to let the car warm up a little I guess it makes her feel rebellious.🤣
I did my apprenticeship (mechanics) on CAT. I am now a mechanical engineer. This man speaks the Truth!
I’ve been a mechanic for 20 years I would like to get into mechanical engineering
I start the engine then wait a minute the put in gear and run at just above idle for a mile then can run at a little higher rpms for the next mile , then I am good to go .
@@MrBoatDoctor exactly what I do. Feel your truck and respond appropriately
I also was trained at a Caterpillar dealership and agree with you 100% we used to fit heaters to Antarctic machines for this very reason
I remember one situation when my friend basically floored his car literally less than a second after the engine got to idle, it was way below freezing. I cried myself to sleep that night.
We had a neighbor who bought old Hertz rent a cars and he would do that in the winter.
After about the 2nd or 3rd season of that , she was tired and you'd hear the rods chattering nicely upon startups.
Haha I was like 8, didn't know anything about engines and it would make me cringe 😂
Hahaha....
Ex gf....
Cranks it, puts it in drive, floors it in -35°C all within about 3 seconds.
I had a volkswagen rabbit I rolled it , drove it a year after, below zero night shift, I'd go to parking lot dead rev it tell windows clean, people would scatter
Can’t fix stupid
I live in Canada. I as a rule fire the truck up , idle for about 3-4 minutes then bump up to 1000 rpm until water temp is at least 100. Then off I go. Also during shut down I run at idle with fan on for about 5 minutes until it’s sufficiently cooled down to a little below 180. I’ve ran this truck for 20 years ( N14) and it’s oil samples are still great.
This is one of the biggest benefits of electronic controls. It limits fuel rates and rpms when coolant and oil temps are low. It also in many cases raises rpm to help aid in warm up and maintaining temperature. Many of mechanical engines have been damaged or ruined by bad habits. I also a big fan of synthetic oils especially a 5w40 in the winter months. It really shows when starting in sub zero temperatures. I really enjoy these videos thanks
A friend of mine who was a factory trained Mercedes tech from Germany and was part of the extensive research and design of the w123 chassis and OM617 engine said that their findings were that a 2-4 minute idle and then gentle driving until up to operating temperature proved to have the least amount of engine wear during the warmup phase. In a nutshell. The fastest warmup time with the least amount of engine load is what it boils down to. That mindset/advice has proved to be good rules to live by for me. Two other key things he said about those cars is nothing killed the engines faster than a bad thermostat and the engine running two cold and never ever over full the automatic transmission. He never saw one fail from too little fluid in those cars. Great video!
Makes me feel reading your comment... About to do my thermostat in my Duramax
Love the W123 cars
I have also had a couple old truckers and heavy equipment guys tell me "once it's running, don't shut it off until the end of day". These guys had million miles engines. Worked them hard, but maintained well.
Yeahhhh those million miles engines also have expensive fine filtration bypass filters and get lots of oil changes, plus they are usually mated to a lot of gears which means no need for 3k rpm
@@jonsalzman909 all great info
And those old guys never had to deal with crappy LSD and DPF... amd they all put idle at 1000 to 1100 rpm at idle. Keeps cylinder wash low and amd turbo cleaner.
@@jonsalzman909 with a 1-2 micron bypass system you don't need to change the oil as often. Just replace the additives with a TBN booster.
Oil is cheaper than parts...
Always plug in your engine block heater in real cold weather. It never hurts to warm up an engine now that most are electrically injected.
A wise GM mechanic once said "I've never fixed an engine because of warming it up"
but he fixed lots that had been over ran.
he might have been to busy fixing GM's for ever other conceivable reason...
@@poet99999.... Not IF you're referring to the older 2 cycle Detroits (or, even the 4 cycle series 60).
2Stroke Diesel Power I sure can’t complain about my 12.7 Detroit.
I used to run a soil compactor with a 2 stroke V-16 Detroit Diesel. Two V-8 blocks bolted together end to end with a single crankshaft. Two separate superchargers. Those old Jimmy's liked to be run wide open throttle and that rig would wake the dead two towns away, Lol!
Wait 5 minutes at idle, then drive off, moderate load until you see your oil/coolant temp start to climb.
I left my truck idling 10 to 15 minutes before y drive
Idling before driving is simply to get the oil circulating through the turbo and other engine parts in newer diesels. I have a VW TDI and they say 30 seconds to a minute of idling and then just drive it. Obviously don’t be running 23lbs of boost through the ol girl until she’s up to temp but just regular driving a cold diesel is actually healthier for them than slow warm ups.
@@Realtreecamo98 : There is a big difference between a 2 liter, and a 9 liter diesel engine.
@@johndavidwolf4239 I didn’t say there wasn’t?
@@Realtreecamo98 what about the old Diesel engines? I would have thought a warm up before driving would be better
Hey Josh,
Love the new segment! Please continue showing them as you're able to.
Ive been an engineer for longer than this guy has been alive (45 years ) he is only half right it is Very important to cool an engine down properly too
my cat 3406 has done 2.9 million because it is always warmed up and cooled down properly and serviced properly and althow a bit tired now it is still working hard
I always give the diesels I’ve had a few minutes to warm up before working the engine at full load and Never had any problems with them,I also let the engine idle for a couple of minutes before shutting it down after a hard run to protect the turbo bearings by letting the oil pressure cool it down before shutting off,this practice has served me well over the years never needing a new turbo or any other engine problems.
The idle down after a run also lets the turbo RPM come down before you shut down the oil pressure.
Well said.
This is the most intelligent discussion of idling I've heard.
This is one thing I like about the new Cummins in the ram pickups. The exhaust brake kicks on and loads up the engine a bit, keeps the fuel dilution of the oil from getting out of hand.
...and my '19 Ram goes in to higher idle in cold temps to warm it up. Literally at operating temp in less than 10 minutes.
And that is why standby generators tend to have catastrophic engines failures at super low hours.
Very true. Any decent one will have a coolant and oil heater, they usually keep it around 100f, so it’s a little better. And for the first 3 or 4 seconds of running it doesn’t have load on it
Man I'm so glad you made this video on how to warm your diesel up! I would have never known!
Love the failure segment at the end of the video. Add explanation as to what the probable cause was. Love your videos! Keep it up! 👍🏻
Thank you, this video just confirmed that I'm warming up correctly👍
I was always taught with tractors and heavy equipment that if you idle a machine in the winter to bump the throttle a smidge to keep it off the low idle. I was always told it was for oil pressure and flow reasons. Never thought about it much, I just did it. Granted these were mostly older machines also.
I like the destruction segment at the end! Great video..I learned a lot about the inside components of the Diesel engine. Looking forward to watching more videos!!
Learning from other peoples failures is our least painful lessons. You have changed some of my behaviors and my duramax thanks you.
I work in the gas compression industry on cat g3600's. The most important thing on them is that your oil temp never exceeds the jacket water temp in fact the ecm will shut the engine down if there isn't enough differential between the two. Since the pistons are oil cooled they don't want the hotter oil to expand them any larger than the cylinder liners. As a general rule of thumb I never start to drive or load anything until coolant temp is up to 160 degrees. Good videos man it's nice to watch someone with a good head on their shoulders
Cory, I am puzzled by this part, "...oil temp never exceeds the jacket water temp...", because there have been excellent industry tests demonstrating the benefits of engine oil temperatures exceeding 212° F, the primary one being evaporation of water from the oil.
Chad Jessup yessir it does promote evaporation but for the oils we run at temperatures that high the viscosity is usually out of spec also at high temps the oil will break down quicker and when you're talking a 240 gallon oil change we try to squeeze every penny out of it. In certain applications like running on landfill gas they will raise the temperature of the jacket water to promote more evaporation due to the corrosive nature of the gas it will form acids in the crankcase when it mixes with moisture but most all of our gas isn't corrosive so we run lower temps, jacket water at 190 and engine oil at 180. We also run a straight 40w oil to help with oil life as multi viscosity oils (15w-40 etc) have a shorter life comparatively.
Amazing to hear your comment. We run g3600 generator sets and ended up cracking the cylinder liner due to this very fact ....oil temp over Jacket water temp .. Adem alarms but does not shut down engine when this happens
Peter Ronson awesome where are you located? What size of engines are you running? It may be because ours is a different application but it will shut down if oil exceeds water by 7 degrees and will alarm at three degrees,
We've got a pair of g3612's and a g3616 in full cogeneration application. Toronto, Ontario.
Ours when it failed cracked the liner scuffed up the piston but fortunately all the parts stayed in the cylinder. I can't remember what finally shut down the engine but it was not the temp differential alarm in the ADEm. My memory is that shutdown has a long timer too...so damage is already done. We added external valves on the JW circuit after the failure to make sure the JW temp stays high and gets up to temp quickly.
This is such a good explanation. My feelings exactly.
Great video, follow strictly on warming up my small diesels for a minute before rolling out. Thanks
I appreciate you sharing your EXTENSIVE knowledge on Diesel motors ..GREAT JOB as always
That was a very good presentation. Good tip about fuel wash in the cylinder from extended idle time. Thanks for posting.
Is fuel wash a problem in diesels? They typically run very lean when idling, and diesels run hotter than gassers anyway.
@@markdavid4897 no they do not diesel engines run cooler at idle hence why alot have tarps over the radiator during cold months... Easy to tell just by the exhaust temp... A gasser exhaust at idle will be 700° while a diesel can be 300°....
Here in Canada we get some pretty cold temperatures. I run 0W30 or 40 synthetic oil in all my vehicles, including my farm tractor, generator and snow blower. Even this oil is fairly thick at minus 30C. Here are my tips for winter driving: cover the grille to allow the coolant to warm up faster, use a good block heater, and consider a garage. Even an unheated building is far warmer than outdoors and your vehicle will be much happier!
I drove in northern Alberta for many years. I two block heaters and an oil pan heater. No problems starting -35c . Coolant temp was about 95c and oil temp was good. Put over a 1.5 milliom kms and with just normal maintenance. Love your channel.
I appreciate the destruction information at the end. Will be most informative and helpful for us in the field to be on the lookout. Thanks and I hope you will continue with it.
Hell, it takes 5-10 minutes to build air to release the brakes and air up the suspension
You need to fix your air leaks.
Faulty air-leaks are the most common cause to fast warm-ups!
@@blackericdenice you drain the airtank daily to get the moisture out
@@SYNOPTIC747 I have not drain an air tank in over 20 years. Trucks have air driers now.
@@blackericdenice yes but not everyone drives newer trucks. It is a good habbit to have.
Yep, I just started doing this last week. Instead of waiting for 15min. I let it warm up a bit for 1-3min then I drive slowly until I get to engine operating temperature.
Too easy to plug her in - and so very little damage and have warm heater way quicker!
My motor loves the -5 and a cold start, i hold the pedal to the floor right when it starts . A little red line for a good time ! It's lasted all of 580 miles !
very informative, best video on diesel operation i have seen so far. i am impressed. well done!!!!!
An old trucker taught me to never put it under a load until you see the gauge move. If the gauge doesn't move, don't move the truck. 1000 rpm warmup after initial startup and idle settles down.
Pretty much spot on. No need for extended warm-up, but you should take a minute or two before you start to load the engine. One thousand rpm for idling is the proper way if you have extended idle time. Also, as you move the vehicle you should remember that the transmission, rear axles, and wheel bearings need to be warmed so their lubricants can come up to temperature.
I have seen a lot of wheel seals taken out in cold weather.
Thanks for taking the time to put these videos together. Also, I do enjoy the destruction of the week.
Hey, thanks for all your videos. I got a Columbia with a C15 MXS engine, and I am learning a lot from you.
That gives new meaning to catastrophic failure!
+wysetech2000 I think it'll make my videos more interesting.
Growing up on the family farm, we would always start our tractors up in the fall/winter and idle them for about 4 or 5 minutes and then bump them up to around 1300 to 1500 RPM to speed up the heating process. After about 15 to 20 minutes or so we'd go to work. We put anywhere from 8k-15k hard hours on all of our machines and they never needed a rebuild (short of our cotton picker but it was already heavily used when we bought it).
My 2011 Duramax has a cold weather fast idle setting. I found the instructions in the owners manual. This setting is smart enough to turn off if the temperature is above 30F. It has done wonders for the truck in Alaska
Man your videos are amazing my god. Love soaking up your info you are amazing please never stop . Personally helped me out so much Josh. Thank you
Wish I watched this before I put a quarter million miles on my 03 duramax, still runs great though.
The destruction segment is great, love the general content of your channel. I work on ships/boats. Used to run 3516s, C280-12 & C280-16. More recently 3304 & 3406. Now I’m on a Dredge boat with Cummins QSM 11 Generators and QSK 17 for Main propulsion. Keep the info coming!
3516 is a big motor
I definitely worry about starting my diesel when it’s freezing for sure. It sounds good with what you are saying. Thanks for the information
Love your thoroughness when your explaining
Whole heartedly agree with you on an easy warmup on diesels. When our engines are started, let oil pressure build at minimum RPM and after a few minutes, drive off under empty load until close to operating temperature. Never push a cold engine. Up here in Montana, we see -40 F. We use oil pan and block heaters. The newer 5-40 synthetic oils are also a big advantage for sustained cold driving. PS.. you will have to keep your window open and breathe outside until your heater starts throwing heat to keep your windshield from fogging up.... you won't experience that in AZ Haha
This is really good stuff. Very good explanations and the “how’s and why’s” of specific actions.
Good advice for any engine. My new skidoo four stroke came with the same instructions regarding warming it up after a cold start. The manufacturer states to let it idle for 2 or three minutes and then drive it slowly for another few minutes. The drive--by-wire won't even let you goose it until the engine has warmed up.
working in temps down to -58*C or -78* F they were never shut off for months unless it was a quick oil change !
This video should be mandatory for every new diesel owner, I watch my neighbor turn the key and scream down the street when it’s -20 degrees out in his new Ford.
That's hard to watch lol
Every new car owner as well. Any car I drive, if it's first thing in the morning, I always let it warm up. Start it up, rev it to about 1800 RPM after 1 minute, wait until the engine temperature needle gets to about 20%. At that point, the engine's almost done warming up and I can go.
@@electric7487 lol I think I would let it just idle until the temperature gauge is about half way to normal operating temperature, then go drive it
Great video!! Good job. Now do one on wheel bearings, especially heavy loaded.
Thanks, I'm new to a diesel engine car and didn't know these things. I assume this applies to all diesel engines. Glad I found your channel! New sub.
Good stuff. Thanks! I have pondered on this subject extensively and agree with all your suggestions. Have you seen more wear or other issues on generator in the field because of this?
Increased wear from lower oil flow. So switch from conventional oil to synthetic and there is better flow especially at low temperatures. Better oil flow from a better flowing oil means less warm-up time for the oil.
I idle my C15 on startup for 10-15 minutes at the minimum everyday. Plug it in on cold months and idle before shutdown at least 5 minutes. Got 1.3 million before I inframed it. I've ran several different CAT engines with the same routine and never had any problems with long idle times.
1.3 is pretty good for a c15.
@@ai_university I really like my C15 engines. I have 3 kenworths with C15 ACERTs and will go out of my way to avoid the ACERT in the future. The single turbo have been way less problematic.
@@countryrebel01 KT3406E says the same thing about those ACERTS. Haven't dealt with them myself.
@@countryrebel01 I keep
Hearing about this single turbo conversion. What’s the benefits of doing this? Should I wasn’t until my turbos are on their way out to do this ?
@@romanshevy257 Just keep running them until a turbo goes then throw a bigger BW single turbo on. Gets rid of a bunch of extra crap hanging on the motor and will run better. Thats what we've been doing with our ACERT's.
Shit, now you tell me dude. I've been cold starting and idling my diesel engine for a quarter of an hour, sometimes half an hour, before taking off, thinking I was doing it the world of good. I've been doing that for the last 16 years in the same truck!
Over here in the UK my 28 year old Land Rover 200tdi gets between 3-5 mins warm up every time I start it from cold regardless if I'm in a hurry or not!
I then drive it through the gears very slowly until I've done a few miles and I never take it over 65mph, I also let it idle for a min or two when I'm about to shut the engine down.
It's covered just over 300,000 miles now and apart from servicing and a head gasket it's never given me any problems.... I also service it every 6 months with good quality oil.
Look after your vehicle and your vehicle Will look after you!
Do you ever tow a trailer through the mountains?
Christian Eidsmoe I do tow a trailer with it sometimes at full weight which is 3.5 ton here In the UK.. I do also tow ships mooring ropes and wires with it which probably takes it over the recommended towing weight!
I sometimes tow a small X army Sankey trailer into the Welsh mountains but that's about it!
Why do you ask?
Pill Sharks just curious, I'm always amazed at how well diesels tow.
Christian Eidsmoe well I did Drive lorries or Big rigs if your a yank, over here the maximum weight is 44 ton and my old Land Rover towed my lorry across the yard... mainly because another driver kept saying how shit land rovers were! I had to prove him wrong...
Hey, you don't need to let the engine idle before shutting down in most cars nowadays. The ECU will keep a pomp running to cool off the turbo and prevent the oil from burning up :) !
I love the 2nd part and will be looking forward to it . That's a failure I haven't run into before .
As for warm up I've always figured to get oil pressure , wait a few seconds more then slowly bring it up to about 1000rpm until I've got enough air to release the brakes and then ease out .
It's a very subjective discussion without a defined end . well done .
ive run heavy equipment and trucks all my life and ive always done the same thing just long enough to get things moving and go never hard and never had a problem
Interesting amount of spaces
Very sound advice. On the older diesel trucks and equipement, we used to idle them for long periods to warm up, and once started for the day they stayed running, often idling for hours at a time. With the modern diesels, it's pretty much fire them up, idle for 30 seconds or so, then drive or operate conservatively until up to operating temperature. That's pretty much in line with your advice. P.S. I enjoy watching your channel.
Best information video for every truck driver and operator out there.... Thank you
Hi ! Thank you !
+Vladimir Sherer Thanks for watching sir.
Vladimir Sherer Батюшка, вкратце, надо прогревать или нет дизель?
It's a good thing to warm up a diesel engine depending on how cold it is depends on how long you warm it up allowing the oil to get to the turbo and the Pistons to warm up so you don't end up with piston slap and wrist pin knock from not warming up your diesel it's not a bad idea to read the owner's manual you'll find a lot of tips
It takes less than a second for the oil to get there
Enjoying your destruction segments!
Education thru explanation and visual aides work for me, thanks!
Thank you for making this video!
I think this applies to all engines. I always warm up my car to get the oil through the engine on my gas car . Unlike my neighbors that jump in and take off while their car sounds like a sewing machine because there is no oil in the valve train yet. Great video
Dariusz D, correct :)
Did you even listen to the video? The pressure may be there but the engine isn’t properly lubricated until the oil warms and thins and begins to flow through the engine at the right rate
Dariusz D concerning gasoline engines: gas engines use an open/closed loop fuel trims. When cold, a gas engine will operate under open loop, meaning the ECU commands the engine to run with the injectors dumping fuel into the combustion chambers in an effort to increase overall operating temperatures. Gasoline is a solvent: so when in open loop, the engine runs extremely rich. If left to idle before the ECU commands the engine to go into closed loop (14.7:1 air fuel ratio), the cylinders will wash down, causing premature wear. If it's super cold, say around 10 below 0, then yes, let it idle, but if not, jump in and take off. The lack of immediate oil pressure in the cold will not negate the loss of lubrication by letting a gas engine idle in open loop. Carburated engines of course are a different story, but with EFI, it's a whole new story.
Getting your oil up to operating temp before stressing the engine is what's most important in warming up a gasoline engine I think we all agree. The best way to do that is to start driving as soon as you start your engine but under very light load conditions until your oil temp is up to its operating range. In the winter it might take 20 or 30 minutes for that to happen just letting it idle. So cold oil combined with rich idle conditions means minimal lubrication. Idling a gas engine for more than a minute will shorten the life of your engine without a doubt. I know this goes against what most of us were taught but if you think about it, it will be obvious to you. Plus if your one of those tree hugging people your catalytic converter will not be able to change CO2 into O2 until it is heated up either. So not only are you damaging your engine warming it up by idling in an evironmentalists eyes you may as well be clubbing baby seals.
Getting your oil up to operating temp before stressing the engine is what's most important in warming up a gasoline engine I think we all agree. The best way to do that is to start driving as soon as you start your engine but under very light load conditions until your oil temp is up to its operating range. In the winter it might take 20 or 30 minutes for that to happen just letting it idle. So cold oil combined with rich idle conditions means minimal lubrication. Idling a gas engine for more than a minute will shorten the life of your engine without a doubt. I know this goes against what most of us were taught but if you think about it, it will be obvious to you. Plus if your one of those tree hugging people your catalytic converter will not be able to change CO2 into O2 until it is heated up either. So not only are you damaging your engine warming it up by idling in an evironmentalists eyes you may as well be clubbing baby seals while your at it.
It would have been good to mention that a piston is 'cam ground' during it's manufacturing process. Meaning it is slightly oval shaped and not perfectly round until it has reached, or nearly reached, operating temperature. A cold piston will have some piston slap on the skirt which can result in piston damage if put under even a light load too soon. A short skirt will suffer more damage than a long skirt. Just something to keep in mind.
The C series cat engine went to a 3 piece piston. The piston head and skirt are separate and held together with the wrist pin. The skirt is built perfectly round and according to cat can be put under full load as soon as it comes off high idle. The old 2 cycle Detroit also used the 3 pice piston. They were well known for standing up to cold weather operation.
Our marine SOP's stated 2mins idle, then easy load use till engine temps rise then full load after that. If it was a generator, it would be 2mins idle, then 1800rpm no load till temps rose, then bring on load. Our main propulsion diesel engines (PDE) were 2mins idle, 850rpm no load till temps rose, then full use. Keep in mind that our PDE's were 90Litre MTU V16, so 1000rpm was midrange operation.
Very nice. Keep up the good work. And it is great to see comments from a bunch of guys (or gals!!!!) with a really nice sense of humor.
I start my 12 Valve and then open my driveway gates. Move truck outside using low gear and idle rpm. Park truck and then close the gates. Drive away normally and don't get on it until coolant temp is normal. If towing heavy it is warmed up until temp registers and then I take it easy for 5 miles until trans and rear end warms up.
Thanks for the info, someone tried telling me that I should leave the engine at a low idle until warm. I've usually increased rpms over a 1000 almost from the get go, and it takes a few minutes to "air up", by then I'm going down the road . You touched on idling in cold climates, I drove for an outfit out of Yellowknife, NWT. The idle on their trucks was preset at 1500 rpm to maintain heat, both for the engine and for the sleeper.
great point, the colder it is outdoors, the more you have to adjust various routines to suit the situation
When I got my Diesel Oldsmobile Regency, I was told to sit ONE MINU"TE to allow oil distribution and DRIVE. The cabin heat water temperature reached comfort in 2.75 miles.
Perfectly Explained!!!! Beautifull Examples too!
I worked in a NASCAR shop for 7 years.
ANYTIME we started a “cold” engine, the oil was heated (to 210 deg) and circulated thru the engine before starting it. Not letting any engine warm at least 3-5 minutes raises the chance of excess bearing wear/ damage. While today’s synthetic oils do flow better at “9 degrees” than older conventional oil, it does not flow that good. 1-2 minutes warm up is not enough in below freezing temperatures. All engine oils have an optimum temperature operating range. Room temperature and colder is not in that range.
JFC.
This is not a nascar engine!
Anyone who lives in a cold climate (Like Canada!) will have enough common sense to gradually warm the engine after the initial 2 minutes.
For example.
If hooked to 140,000 pounds, starting my day in Btfk nowhere I would open hood, check the oil and other fluids, do a visual for leaks, check steering,
Then I would start engine, do a proper walk around, check tires, etc, come back to the engine area, do another quick visual, close the hood!
At this point you can start moving WITH LIGHT THROTTLE INPUT!
You do not Jeff Gordon the thing and hit the rev limiter even if at 180 -200 °F, that is just plain stupid!
Axles, tires, wheel bearings must be gradually warmed too! At -40°F you could easily rip apart a driveshaft or do unnecessary wear to the tranny or diffs.
To make a long story short...This is not grandpas 6v71 using straight 30 weight conventional oil.
We run modern electronically controlled engines.
:)
@@fredg8199
Sorry but you haven't told me anything I don't already know and many others as well. I figured someone would take my point and miss apply it or twist it into some other meaning. I cannot make my point any simpler and I'm sure the other 99% of readers understand it.
BTW, when did they start using pointless ignition? Golly things sure are changing fast! Now where's my dwell meter and timing light?... there's other oil than straight 30W WolfsHead?!
C R.
Pointless ignition.
@@fredg8199
Exactly.
@@fredg8199 " jeff gordon the thing " is that like " rick james " ? 😂😂😂
Great video with solid information! A question for you would be if this is transferable in regards to proper warm up for a non commercial diesel such as a 7.3 Powerstroke? Thanks for the great videos!
sure. On mine, I drive it soon after starting, but I just run at low rpm's and slowly. it's not just the engine, but the cold transmission, and rear axle. everything is cold and stiff and need to warm up, it all puts a load on the engine, but there's no way to warm it up other than to drive it, just take it slow and no high rpms for a mile or two
I live in Canada and we use block heaters on all of our equipment. We have several aftermarket circulating heaters and those things can actually get the engine up to operating temperature. We have to actually be careful about it because if you leave it plugged in to long it will boil all the water out of the engine. To be fair these things draw over 1500 watts and do not include any sort of max temp switch.
Good info here!!! On my 03 Dodge I always plug it in and have added a trans heater and a battery tender to the plug on the bumper. Makes for a very happy start and drive away on cold mornings !!!
Try telling this to zip ties and bias plies 😂
Lolo to funny
He don’t even check for oil “you don’t need no oil” 🤣🤣🤣 btw I love slave Lake doing 4 wheel pulls 🤣🤣🤣
put er in the ketchup
Give er the ol minty rev n dump
I didn't expect to see this comment here hahahaha good shit
TLDR: “Yes you should let it warm up. No - sitting and idling doesn’t warm it up”
I have a John Deere 4045 Diesel engine that starts wide open on an irrigation pump, it is equipped with block heaters and electric oil pump so it is at 180 degrees and 30lbs of oil pressure before it starts.
Many years ago in the U K a company called Coventry Climax (nice) made an aluminium fire pump engine, small and hand portable. The same engine became a successful race engine as it had lightness and power. As you mentioned with regard to the standby generator, it was not exactly the same. The pump engine had larger tolerances for max oil flow immediately. If it used twice the oil and wore out quickly- so what- got to put that fire out!
So in the end it is a compromise: Get up to operating temperature as soon as possibly, but not in the brutal way. Start the engine, idle for a minute or two, then put some load on the engine to rise the temperature faster by driving away, but under light or moderate load, increase load as the engine temperature goes up.
Another thing, modern oil doesn't get thick. SAE 5-40 or 0-40.
+Kristian Jonsson The most widely used oil over here is 15W40 and it is a bit thick when cold. Those wider range multigrade would definitely flow much better in the cold, that is for sure.
That will be 0W-40 or 5W-40. Those oils pour point is around -30 deg C or lower on average.
Kristian Jonsson exactly what I've heard. And it makes sense.
Kristian Jonsson..... He is NOT addressing little diesel engines in pickup trucks, cars, etc..... we do NOT use 5-40 or 0-40 oil in Heavy Duty diesel engines in HD trucks.... semis, Off hwy mining trucks, Heavy Equipment, etc, etc. The main focus Of The Video is on heavy-duty diesels in Semis or class 7&8 heavy-duty trucks (all diesel) in general.
I keep my plug in I try to keep mine plugged in at all times in the winter time.
In the winter, I unplug it, start it, increase the rpm. Then i go back inside, where it's warm, and have another cup of coffee or two, before going out and hooking up the trailer.
Your destruction of the week video brought out an old memory. I had a pickup that someone had worked on before me and they forgot to tighten the bellhousing bolts. As I drove the truck I would hear a strange clicking sound as the transmission moved around flexing the flywheel. Eventually the torque converter bearing failed, leaking out the transmission fluid. The flywheel didn't come apart but was cracked pretty bad.
I tend to watch the oil pressure gauge and bump up the RPMs to match the cold start pressure as it warms up till about 1K RPM. Don’t forget that there’s other components that need to warm up as well like trans,rearends,and hubs. I’ve literally blown out hubcaps before when the vent was too stiff and couldn’t vent properly and I started driving too fast too soon at -20°f. Also cold scoring is a thing.
I've seen drivers take out wheel seals starting out too fast at 20 below zero.
More destruction videos!!!!
Great content dude keep it up
+Michael Loza More to come.
Our airforce has engines with 18" bores, a v16. When a power failure occurs the engine is on cycle within 3/4 of a cycle of 60 cycle ac power. The large radar sets need an uninterrupted flow of electricity so the set does not miss a single moment of time it is not online. Can you imagine air starting this huge diesel engine under load on cycle with 60 cycles/sec in 1/60th of a second with air start? It is phenomenal when you think about it even how a generator that large comes online that quickly. I have never heard the workload hours to keep these huge engines ready but it shows diesel engines can start much faster than you can believe.
Best channel on YT. Great info and always interesting!
I let the low air warnings stop before I raise the idle. Then wait till the coolant temp to get to 150 to roll out
It revs up because after 5 min it figures you're not going to do it, so go ahead and raise idle to 1k and it will warm up quickly.
I wait tell the motor says 125F before I start rolling
Mmmm.... interesting ! It's minus 11 F this AM. like it usually is this time of year in my neighborhood, sometimes a lot colder tho.
I do plug it in always, I have an oil pan heater and a block heater , I start the truck and let it idle while I roll up the extension cord, then I increase the idle to 1k turn on all the lights and do my walk around( pre trip) then I increase the idle again to 1150 and do my paper work.... I will not stuff it in gear till the coolant temp reaches 110... by then the oil is about the same.
Always take it easy at first till temp are up in normal op. range.
I got a 1.1 million on the odometer with this ISX 550 and still running strong pulling 102K lbs every day. Knock on wood ! :)
Thanks for the vid !
Francis B this routine that you apply is the same that I have done and I believe is an excellent method to getting the longest life out of your rig. I’ve retired now from the trucking industry after 40 years and millions of miles. Good luck be safe and happy trails.
Awesome content brother man. Like your channel a lot
I like seeing the damage section, too.
Or you could just do a proper pre-trip inspection and it'll be sufficiently warm when you're done.
Terry Waters that’s what you do as a professional driver prestart safety checks
And fill your paper work out
And then ready to go
Dont go injecting logic into the situation. Nobody appreciates it.
Please don't forget about having a hot hardworking engine and bringing it down to an idle and letting the heads and cylinders cool down before shutting it off ,,,,, your turbo and head gaskets and everything else will love you much more
Nonsense
Makes sense letting it cool down. Shut the ac off as well, with fan on to remove water and not have ac stink at next start up. How long do you wait before you shut your diesel off?
My diesels include:
1981 rabbit 1.6 non turbo diesel
2002 excursion 7.3 turbo diesel
2017 john deere 2032R non turbo diesel
@Les Brown
Makes sense
@Al Forster dude dont make an idiot of yourself.If you dont allow an engine to cool down you can ruin it pretty fast.If you have a turbo and you shut it down immediately the turbo will cook the oil and bye bye turbo.A non turbo engine has other issues,shutting it down hot can cause the valves to bend and also bend or crack the cylinder head.Not to mention the head gasket
@@FredFlintstone21 3-4 minutes is enough to circulate the coolant and oil and bring them to a reasonable temperature,that will prevent your valves from bending and possible damage to your cylinder head
As a qualified diesel fitter, I agree with what you have said, well explained
Just a note, many of the large Gen sets I have worked with have an electric oil pump that will pre-lube the engine before it starts. I often wish I had this on my trucks!