Tools, Glorious Tools! #10 (Part 2) - Shop Made Gear Cutters - The Cutter Forming Tools
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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2023
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------------- Video Notes: --------------
File Downloads (Be sure to COPY/PASTE the links):
Cutter Sharpening Tool Metric: www.clickspringprojects.com/u...
Cutter Sharpening Tool Inch: www.clickspringprojects.com/u...
Clickspring Universal Gear Calculator: www.clickspringprojects.com/u...
Cutter Forming Tools Metric: www.clickspringprojects.com/u...
Cutter Forming Tools Inch: www.clickspringprojects.com/u...
Cutter Blank Metric: www.clickspringprojects.com/u...
Cutter Blank Inch: www.clickspringprojects.com/u...
Some top resources on Gear Theory:
John Stevenson's Blog Post - metalwebnews.com/howto/gear/ge...
WO Davis - “Gears For Small Mechanisms”: amzn.to/2Yj2Ben
JM Wild - "Wheel & Pinion Cutting in Horology": amzn.to/2HI6ca9
"Gears and Gear Cutting", Ivan Law: amzn.to/2FKmaUI
Tony's gear videos:
• Gears! - But Were Afra...
• 15T-M2 Let This Be A L...
Stefan on the subject of sharpening, and a discussion on profile error: • Toolgrinding: Resharpe...
Mr Pete's Gear Videos:
• SHOP TIPS #192 Intro. ...
• SHOP TIPS #199 Making ...
• SHOP TIPS #200 Making ...
• SHOP TIPS #197 Gear Cu...
• SHOP TIPS #194 Cutting...
• SHOP TIPS #193 Cutting...
Andy Pugh's Gear hobbing video's:
• Hobbing (Gear cutting)...
• A New Gear for an Old ...
"The Watchmakers' Lathe " Ward Goodrich - amzn.to/2Wijchr
Hugh Sparks - www.csparks.com/watchmaking/C...
"The Clock & Watch Makers Guide to Gear Making" Porter - amzn.to/2xuFP7I
Online Gear Generator: geargenerator.com/
Alan Pinkus’s Gear Generator - www.micro-machine-shop.com/gea...
Matthias Wandels gear generator: woodgears.ca/gear_cutting/tem...
(Amazon Affiliate links)
Cameras:
Panasonic GH5 - amzn.to/2rEzhh2
Panasonic X920 - amzn.to/2wzxxdT
Books:
"Wheel & Pinion Cutting in Horology": amzn.to/2HI6ca9
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": amzn.to/2FObS1D
WO Davis - “Gears For Small Mechanisms”: amzn.to/2Yj2Ben
"Workshop practice Series": amzn.to/2WgeGh0
Tools & Shop Products:
Optivisor Headband Magnifier: amzn.to/2HFg1FU
Norton 1-by-2-by-8-Inch Fine/Coarse India Combination Oilstone, Red: amzn.to/2tTEPb0
Hegner Scroll Saw: amzn.to/2IhteVW
Digital Caliper 6 inch/150 mm Electronic Vernier Calipers: amzn.to/2EArNRU
Generic Dial Indicator 0.001": amzn.to/2FOFTyF
Interapid Dial Test Indicator: amzn.to/2FPInwH
Saint Gobain (Norton) - 4 Arkansas Stones + case: amzn.to/2HCOAMX
Dormer A190202 Jobber Drill Set, 1.0 mm - 6.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2DR5fdb
Dormer A190203 Jobber Drill Set, 6.0 mm - 10.0 mm x 0.1 mm Size: amzn.to/2ITfeTa
YG1 NC Spotting Drill 8% Cobalt HSS 1/8 to 1/2" 120 Degree 5 Pc Set CNC Machine: amzn.to/2G7ylv6
Hegner Scroll Saw: amzn.to/2IhteVW
Blazer GB2001 Self-Igniting Butane Micro-Torch: amzn.to/3f5Gzlh
Magnetic Base Adjustable Metal Test Indicator Holder Digital Level 14" - Tool Stand: amzn.to/2PkyoTV
Anytime Tools Angle Block Set 1°, 2°, 3°, 4°, 5°, 10°, 15°, 20°, 25°, 30° Precision +/- 20 Seconds, Machinist Tool, 10 Piece Set: amzn.to/2QFqM2Y
Consumables:
Super Pike Saw Blades Size 3/0 pkg of 144: amzn.to/2uI0QdT
Blue Matador Abrasive Paper: amzn.to/2IAFiBT
Bergeon Professional Cleaning Rodico: amzn.to/2NwcM6y 
Хобби
Question! What are the drawbacks, if any, of adding a mark or notch, however minor, to the shafts of the button cutters for more accurate and repeatable alignment, especially for the sharpening? Or as another commenter asked filing a spot flat where the grub screw would be expected to reach?
None whatsoever; use markings as personally desired - Cheers :)
I was thinking the same thing! Really incredible design, this is the only real improvement I could think of... But...
You can actually keep the set screw loose and gently press the buttons against a flat surface, where they will index to exactly the right position. Then you tighten the set screws to lock that orientation. It would be a lot more precise than trying to match up any sort of marking. Probably more precise than flats too.
Given that the buttons are loctited into the holder, I'm not sure you'd ever be resharpening them in the jig.
I just watched a man use a tool he had made ... to make tools ... to make a tool.
And enjoyed every second.
Great to have you watching mate :)
That is the best sort of project as every hobby workshop owner will attest to.
I shouldn't be surprised that the bloke who makes far and away the best videos on RUclips also makes the best machine shop tools I've ever seen...
Chris: "I made a thing to make a thing to make a thing to make a thing" too good!
I have to thank you and other YT creators for sharing your wealth of information. Because of you all, I made my first clock mechanism in my workshop. It still needs a bit of tuning but works as I was hoping for. Thanks again for sharing!
Hard to imaging life without YT.Thank you.
@@angelramos-2005 I can remember life before YT. I got a lot more coding done.
Tools to make tools to make tools to make tools to make a part to make a tool
… to make gears!
A tool to make a tool to make a tool! I have no need to make gears, and I still watch!
My only regret is that I have but one like to give to each of Chris's videos. Beautiful work expertly executed, as always.
I see clixkspring I click
But do you spring?
@@Noodle_Druidright into action, clicking like on clickspring.
@@Noodle_Druidevery time he clicks, something springs back!
I see qlliikspprryyng and i click too 😉
I swing to click
Making the tool that makes the tool that makes the tool to make the part. Phenomenal as always!
Building tools for building more tools!
have been working metal for 40 yrs ... the first 3 mins of this vid went woosh over my head! (chuckle) never too old to learn! i know involute etc ..but the math is nuts!
Sometimes the beauty of a tool is enough to justify its creation, as in the case here. That sharpening jig is wonderful
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера...
I like the tools series. Thank you for putting this together mate.
Absolutely loved the integrated sine bar for setting the button cutter rake angle, brilliant feature.
I want a set of those button cutters to use as cufflinks.
Thanks to Chris, I now believe my dream of building a model engineering machine shop in my 20’ shipping container is possible.
Like in all art with gears negative space can be more important than positive.
Just when you think you have seen it all. Chris comes out with another video. Very nice.
It seems like a small flat on the back of the buttons would greatly help align their slope parallel to the stone...
Holy chit, Chris, for once I may have an idea for you. When you are forming the original 15 degree slope on the button cutters, once you are finished milling the shape, what if you made a flat on the low side of the cutter buttons. This would allow you a flat surface to index and measure to when setting the buttons for the remainder of the set ups for sharpening on the stones and setting them in the tool holder. Just and idea here, might work.
Some times i can not decide what i like best. The idea, planning, then the setup. Or the making of the gadget and its intended use. Or the camera work, capturing its entirety. One is as intricate as the next.
You could actually file a small flatspot onto the shaft of the button inserts. That way the grub screw wont deform the shaft and also it would set the rotation pretty close to what it originally way when you want to sharpen them.
And set alignment
When the 15 degree rake angle is milled in from the top (as at 6:54), it would be very easy to mill a flat at the small (unused end) as the next operation. That would involve no further setup and it would provide a means of orienting the buttons in the cutter. If you used a square that had equal width limbs you could both assure that the buttons were 90 degrees to each other and 45 degrees from center.
I was thinking similarly you could score a line on the bottom of the tall side of the button to make the angle more visible
Just one word comes to me : wahooo !
I could watch your videos all day.
Great illustration of using the disk cutters and how to make them... I had read extensively about this over 20 years ago, but only now understand everything...
tool and cutter grinder here, as always your dedication and attention to detail amazes me. Keep doing the good work of making this sort of operation as approachable as possible, with enough time and planning, you really can do anything.
These videos are at the top end on RUclips content
If you put a flat on the stem of the cutters prior to cutting them, you can get them to orient themselves for you.
You could file or scratch an alignment mark onto the cylindrical edge of the button cutters before cutting the 15deg angle on them, so that you can repeatably line them up in future.
or mill a small flat on the sides of the cutters so the grub screws will automatically align the cutters when tight
If you milled a couple flats on the low sides, you could use them to quickly line up the cutters for sharpening.
The button cutter carrier: a tool to help you make tools to help you make tools to help you make gears to help you make clocks
Wow that self jigging feature for the cutter rake is really clever!
Gday Chris, that for taking the time to explain this in a way I can understand and that’s not an easy feat 😂, looking for to the next instalment, cheers
I see click I spring
Awe! Thank you for posting!
Hey Chris, you just saved the world, as I was about to go make a very large bomb, but your video distracted me.
That certainly was a pleasant trip. Liked it so much I watched it twice.
Sir, you are awesome.
When cutting the angle on the buttons woulda been a good time to cut an index line on them and some on the block
If you were to mill a flat on outer edge on the lower side of the buttons alignment in the sharpening tool and the button holder would be a lot easier.
I thought the same, even a small mark on the outer face at the high point would make alignment easier
@@fittogan A flat would let you use a parallel to align on the sharpening jig and a 90° angle to align on the cutter. It would be pretty trivial to mill in the jig before you mill the angled surfaces.
Thank you very much
Wow, such precision and detail. Thank you
Amazing.
Can i make a suggestion? Why not mill a flat on the button cutter shank for indexing? A small flat that the grub screw can seat into ensuring accurate alignment.
Been a long time watcher of your work. I am just flabbergasted by by what you. So beautiful to watch and so informative. Thankyou
gorgous finish
Cool video
Another fantastic video.. thank you for sharing your knowledge
Did you hear Adam Savage just got himself a mini lathe and plans on doing some watch repair and other projects?
I look forward to him using some of your techniques as he does you as an inspiration along with Marshall at Wristwatch Revival😊
Just love to watch glorious tool making :D
Could you mill a flat at the lower edge of the buttons without impacting performance. That could help with squaring the buttons to the right orientation.
awesome video as always
Hey Chris, @10:04 I wonder if you could use a piece of glass, sort of like microscope slides (maybe a bit more tough), to press gently against both buttons allowing them rotate to face the same plane, until seen aligned correctly.
One must be careful not to break the glass though.
Hi Chris. Well one the best video's I have seen on preparing cutter blanks. Your detail to making the tools are one of the best.
The building blocks, thanks for the look see.
Dear Sir, today I watched a video by Sabine Hossenfelder. It featured a quantum computer. I remarked how beautiful they were. And as a lark, I advertised quantum chandeliers for sale, starting at $50,000, with two yeas delivery. I have not the tools or experience to make this a reality. But she did respond. To a different comment. I think there would be a market. I immediately thought of you.
You could have put a grove in the shaft of the button cutters for easy alignment
Or cross drilled them and used a pin to align them.
Fascinating.
You make it look easy!
Great, thanks for sharing
i'll be making one soon. thank you sir!
Brilliant
Chris always with the perfect work !
Love this. Wanting to make gears soon and all these tools that i need to make will make life easier.
Thank you for sharing it all. Its assisted in my thoughts.
Would putting some flats on the back (thin side) of your buttons not assist in getting the 15 degrees in the right place for sharpening and also for installing on the button carrier with a square to get the high (thick side) as the point of contact?
Cant wait for the next and keep up the work
Thanks and regards,
Paul
Man I love the videos. I can’t seem to get enough. Amazing work!!!
Absolutely genius
Love this mate, thanks!
There are a few points in the video where the machine sounds almost drown out your voice.
Awesome work , thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Made my day
Just an idea! But to adjust the two cutters to the same gapped height for sharpening, could you use something like a spark plug gapper "coin"?
Love a multi step process. Great machining!
Ну ты мастер!) Молодец!) Ждём новое видио!)
Hi Chris, your work and videos are totally amazing and inspiring. You refer to the "calculator" many times for making the clock wheel and pinion cutters. Where can I obtain the "calculator" or data please?
Absolutely amazing as always!!! Wow. So cool
Fascinating build and idea! Awesome video! :)
Awesome work as always 👍
A cutter-cutter... well obviously! :P
..as well as the tools to make and sharpen the cutter cutter.
Mmmm, shiny...😁 I notice that when sharpening the button cutters great attention is paid to the circular 'end face' but that the outer side of the button is left largely untouched from the lathe.
I've done a bit of metalwork and old-school machining, but my experience lies mainly with woodworking tools (chisels, planes, saws, routers), and in those cases it's impossible to get a truly smooth, sharp cutting edge unless the meeting faces are finished to an equal degree.
The back side of a plane iron, for instance, needs to be kept mirror-bright so that when the cutting edge is sharpened - ground, honed and stropped - no nicks or scratches are revealed each time the back of the blade is exposed. If the front is perfectly flat and polished, but the back is as rough as a ploughed field, the cutting edge will always be wavy and can never be finer than those exposed corrugations.
So... would the outer edge of a button cutter benefit from being as finely polished as its end face, or doesn't it matter in this particular application? I appreciate that there's a big difference between making a tool to create a finished component, and making a tool to make a tool to make another tool to make a finished component. Just curious... 🙂
Yes, quite correct Eli, removal of any turning marks is essential for the best possible finish. It kinda zips by but you'll see I take the perimeter to a bright polished finish as a last step of the cutter OD formation before formation of the cutting surfaces (4:30) The goal being no residual turning marks to corrupt the cutting edge, more-so than a polish, but the idea is the same as you describe - Cheers :)
Your work and attention to detail is simply stunning - thank you so much for sharing this with us! One more question: You ground and polished the top of the cutter - doesn't the side surface also play an important role? I mean, if there are scratches there, then they may also be found on the cutting edge - and thus ultimately on the teeth of the gear, which are milled with it?
It is the edge that matters. Because of the 5 degree tilt for clearance /relief after the buttons are mounted in the tool, the sides should not rub against the work piece.
Hey Chris, great video again! Deviating from a profile with conjugate action (ie involute mated with involute) should result in the formation of transmission errors in the meshing cycle (these errors being deviations from the ideal transmission ratio). You're certainly right that the approximation is pretty good though. Out of curiosity, have you ever noticed little jerking motions or accelerations while two gears mesh together?
It's very possible that either the gear was mounted off center or the shaft is bent either would lead to intermittent binding then being too loose.
Consistently good videos time after time. I just wish I had the patience and ability to turn out products like these.
Can you post up the necessary information for figuring out the cycloidal button gear tooth cutter tooling or is the information available somewhere else?,thanks.
Do you think flats on the shaft of the buttons would be helpful with alignment and avoid marring of the shaft.
Always glad to see another video. A question I hope isn't annoying. What are your thoughts on using round carbide inserts that already have rake and clearance angles built into them? I guess you'd be at the mercy of their diameters so I should check out that calculator.
Excellent solution, naturally requires consideration of some details, but nothing too difficult. More details in the next videos - Cheers :)
If you leave the side screw loose during sharpening, won't it find the natural flat? These are low pressure operations..
Very cool effects; just wondering:
Do you enjoy doing that type of animation/compositing stuff as much as you enjoy machining?
i worry about the precision of aligning the rotation of the buttons. do they make octagonal broaches?
Would it be worth adding something to easily index the button cutters?
LOL - Autocaptioning strikes again "kataraba" is most likely "cutter arbor"
The rake and clearance angles mean that the cutting edge is slightly elliptical, and as it's not in line with the centre line of the lathe, its effective shape is a curve I don't know the name of.
I wonder if anyone has calculated what subtle effect this has on the involute approximation. The angles could potentially be tuned, but only to a specified cutter radius. I'd rather build a CNC grinder with my teeth than figure that one out.
👍
With all those different angles, it seems unlikely that the gear tooth profile actually ends up circular - elliptical maybe ?
Ok they made a big Hollywood movie about the Antikythera machine. Do a movie review with This old Tony but form your own perspective.
Hi Chris, I can see that there is end clearance on the buttons on the holding tool ( 5 degree) but there doesn’t appear to be side clearance, is this significant.
In a lot of your videos you use a scroll saw to pierce metal or cut small posts from parent stock. What kind of blades are you using?
Hello mate, I use these (various sizes depending on job) www.jewellerssupplies.com.au/product-group/34592-super-pike-sawblades-bundle-12/category/1161-sawing - Cheers :)
Chris, thanks again for this. I have a quick question. I'm still figuring out best practices for some of these operations and it seems to me that the locating boss would have been a perfect candidate for using a thermal interference fit. I know that the Loctite will work, but the shrink fit seems so much more elegant. Or am I just adding an unneeded complication to the job?
Loctite is reversible, easier, faster, and iirc stronger than an interference fit, and also doesn't introduce any stresses into the part. It's also visually indistinguishable from an interference fit, so there really doesn't seem to be a reason not to use loctite. Don't get me wrong, I find interference fits very cool and would probably still do it just because I'm a big dag, but the Loctite really does seem superior by any objective measure.
That being said I'm a former designer, not a machinist, so Chris may have a very different insight into this than me!
Knowing how meticulous Chris is, gave me goosebumps to see how sloppy he was making the alignment here: 9:45 and here: 17:05! :P
🎉
What happened to the other series about the calender?