Build Your Own Radiant Heat Panels- Boiler and Zones Breakdown List! Pole Barn Heat Setup
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2020
- Hey Guys,
Here is a Video on How to build your own PROFESSIONAL Boiler and Zone Panels for radiant heat systems. Sorry for the delay , but winter is coming and had to finish up some projects. This should help you guys with the components needed to build your system. If you have more zones, then add more pumps! For reference , I am using over 4700 ft of tubing and I get 1/2 gal per minute ( GPM) flow rate with this system. Hope this helps you guys out in building yours! 
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Wanted to say thanks, I built my own panel off this video and it works great!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching the videos , every view counts!
This was SO HELPFUL!!! Dealing with sticker shock on the price of "prebuilt" control panels, so thankful you published this.
Glad to help , wish I had the same video before I bought mine! Thanks for watching the videos
This is what I was looking for a quick list of parts so I can figure out what I already have, what I need, and how I will arrange it all! Thanks!
Your welcome . Make sure to recommend the video to others to help them out , Thanks for watching.
Really appreciate the video Jason - especially the materials list - great job!
Thanks, glad I could help. Make sure to take a guess on the coin amount video , it could pay for some parts of your system!
Great video ! Thanks for sharing that with us . Very useful !
Awesome. Very informational content. You've helped me a ton!
Glad I can help, Thanks for watching
I greatly appreciate the details to include prices & part #. Really nice , tight job. The standard I will try for.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching it
Great video Jason! Just what i needed.
Glad it helped, Thanks for watching it
Really nice job on the copper soldering, Jason. This video is very helpful, thank you!
Those panels are factory soldered as I purchased those. Can't take credit for that
@@JasonRUclips Can you say who you bought the factory panels from?
@@pbc8137The panels are Hydrosmart, can buy them from menards or direct from them
Thank you for the info on building the panel.
Any time!
Thank you for the amazing video.
Glad it helps. Should be able to save hundreds doing it yourself
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome, Thanks for Watching it!
Jason- thank you so much for sharing this. Would it be possible to share a overview of the whole system. I'm lost after the purge Tee as to how the supply and return lines are plumbed.
I will try to do a video showing that , just with the holidays and personal matter , might be awhile. Thanks for watching the videos
excellent videos. I appreciate your information on this. One question do you need just one circulation pump if only one zone with seven loops?
If your not using a primary/secondary circuits for hydraulic separation , then you need to check what gpm flow rate you need for your boiler/water heater to activate. Some need 1/2 gpm flow , then you would be ok using 1 larger pump.
Hi Jason, first of all thank you very much for the video, very well done and so easy to follow, I think even I can follow it. I know I'm late coming into this but I have a quick question, why is everything 1" and not 3/4"? For me everything would be so much easier to find and so much cheaper if I used 3/4 and with a closed system I'm not sure I need the flow rate 1" gives so I'm thinking I'm missing something. Any insite would be appreciated.
The boiler/ tankless water heater needs a certain GPM (.5 to 1 GPM) to activate so you need to make sure to have enough flow through system. If you don't have many loops, then 3/4" should do, but you need to use some formulas to determine that . Google that to see what you need.
Hi Jason,
Thanks for the video.
Can you tell me where I can get the pipe stand offs you used in routing your piping?
Thanks!
Hi,
They are just Oatey Pipe Standoff clamps. Home Depot, Lowes, Menards all carry them you buy the Threaded rod separate and cut to length. The bottom is also sold individually and should be in the black pipe section of those stores. I just painted mine to match my wall color. Thanks for watching
Also, what ratio of water to glycol did you use when filling the system?
Thanks again!
I just went what the lowest temperature that my area would face and went with that ratio. I think I errored on caution side of -60 burst and freeze protection of -20 , but since the tubes are in ground it would never reach those temps but better safe then sorry. I think it was a ratio of 75 glycol to 25 water. With cryotek 100 , you could run straight glycol and it isn't that thick. I bought all my 5 gal buckets from the dealer as it was about $20 cheaper per 5 gal if I bought at Menards / Lowes/ Home depot. Might try a local radiant / HVAC dealer as they could probably order it in and they would take their cut and you would probably save.
Nice system review, but I want to build my own radiant panels and I did not get any of that here
Hey there Jason. How do you determine the PSI for your primary (boiler / expansion tank) circuit? More to the point. how do you determine the "Pressure Set Point" of the pressure relief valve?
Pressure relief valves on a closed loop system are usually 30 psi, and system pressure is between 10-20 psi. You don't need that much pressure in the system to get stuff moving
@@JasonRUclips THANKS!
Quick question. Im about to build a 54x60 shop. One single space, no dividing walls. Would a single pump system do that? I notice you have three pumps. Can you explain that a little. Thanks
Jason
The one pump is for the boiler/ hot water heater as that has some flow restriction going through the boiler and in order to get the 1/2 gpm through your tubing, it is easier on system to have a separate pump for the boiler panel. Look up Hydraulic separation as that will explain it better . More efficient then just a standard circuit utilizing 1 pump. My other pump has 3600 ft of tubing , so depending on how many feet you do, then the one zone pump will work if you have under 3600 ft of tubing. my other zone has 1200 ft , and that has a separate pump for that zone. If your doing the tubing in concrete then you will not need as many feet of tubing as my setup. My setup is using Thermal mass so my tubes are in the sand beneath the concrete so I basically have over 1 ft of sand /concrete to heat up, so need more to heat that up.
The system will lose water during natural use..the auto fill is there to hook up a house line thats live all the time and it will automatically keep your system within the desired psi range
looks great, how much was your boiler?
Its usually $799 and its a tankless water heater. I bought a rebranded one for like $1099 as I didn't know it was rebranded
Sorry if I missed this, but what company sells or makes up these panels? Just in case I feel over welmed trying to build it myself. Thanks
You can search premade zone panels as multiple companies make them
Hey Jason, getting ready to build my panels but have a question. So you placed your tubing in the sand below the slab. What spacing did you use for the tubes?
They recommend about 8" but in some places around the perimeter I went with the tighest radius bend , like 6" spacing. My thought is perimeter walls will sap.the heat and be the coldest spots. Thanks for watching
@@JasonRUclips I was thinking that as well. How did you figure out how to layout your runs? Having trouble with that and info.
@@country81 Just check out my video on thermal mass tubing layout. Shows mine
Expansion tank should always be installed in a vertical position by the way.
That is a Myth , IF manufacturer states vertical mount only then that is true statement. Most can be mounted in any direction or orientation ( Upside down, horizontal, etc..) If you know how they operate, it doesn't matter. The air bladder has pressure which forces against liquid so it doesn't matter which direction . Google it as most manufacturers state any way you want to mount it. Vertical mount is easier on the fittings though , as the weight is straight down instead of horizontal , but as long as it is supported properly , it will be able to hold weight of water if bladder leaks.
Hi. How heavy is the expansion tank with water in it and should it be supported?
The tanks are usually 4 gal total.volume so max fluid is like 2 gal. Usually you have less then 1 gal of liquid in it , so like under 7 pounds. So you need to support it but max weight would be like 25-30 lbs if bladder fails. So yes support it for the max weight if it failed, which isn't that much weight to support
Should try Tamas Hydronic panels. Way better!
How efficient is that boiler??? Any idea how much it runs or what it’s costing?
Its 94% efficient and I have videos showing how much the costs are to heat. I break it down for cost per cu ft of heating so others can compare it on their building heating costs. Usually for heating in Minnesota, it costs about $550 per season to heat my building at 58 degrees. This year its more due to gas increase and also a "Feb Event" surcharge , for that Texas gas blunder.
Hi, do you need a Water Pressure Reducing Valve for the system. Thank you
This is a closed loop system so the pumps just move the fluid and don't build up pressure. You actually pressurize the system when filling with another pump. It does have a pressure relief valve in case it overpressurizes due to a restriction or if it gets too hot and boils the fluid
@@JasonRUclips thank you. Do you have any video on filling the system with water/glycol mix and purging the system of any air. Thank you
@@Xbox360Rules00 No I don't as there are some good videos on youtube with how to do.it. Thanks for watching
Hey Jason do you have an email so I can ask you a few questions? I have a 24x32 pole barn with 1100 linear feet of radiant tubing......Could I get away with a smaller boiler than what you have or is it more efficient to go bigger? Your space seems much larger than mine.
Hi, Ya I have 4700 lin ft of tubing so 4x yours. You can go smaller but really no point , because these are modulating , so they can go down to 15K btu or up to 120K btu depending on water temp and gpm needed. So if your looking to save money upfront, you can get a non condensing unit , but that is less efficient so will pay more in long run. Since these are water heaters , the non condensing runs like $700 and condensing runs like $900. Regular boilers run 3K on up. They used to be alot cheaper but with the " Free Money" era , they went up 30% . Thanks for watching
Quick question how did you figure out what size pump you needed?
When you design your system through the programs online or talking to contractors, they will tell you what pump size needed. But the ups15-58fc pumps are usually the go to ones. As long as you don't go over 5000 ft of 1/2 pex per pump , it will have no problems
@@JasonRUclips Do you have any sites you would suggest for the formulas, or even reference books you used?
@@joeredhawk Most stores that sell all the supplies may help you out. I know that Radiantech was good but that was like 4 years ago so I cannot tell you how they are now. They sell their kits and everything so you could try there , but I cannot endorse them since its been awhile. Maybe others can chime in , but that is a start. Depending on where you live, there may be local companies that will design it and give you quotes on it, Just search for radiant heat in your state and should pull them up.
what is the part that the pressure/temp gauge attaches to?
The manifolds have them installed on them , thats what the pex loops hook up to
Not the ones on the manifolds. the ones on the copper pipes. in this video you have a guage next to the pressure tank and one next to the Air seperator. Is it some kind of T fitting @@JasonRUclips
@abacojack13 It is a 1" tee with like 3/8 - 1/2 on top. Then you sweat a threaded reducer to it with threads of gauge your using . Threaded reducer slips over the pipe perfectly.
Where can I find the parts list?
I basically just showed the parts and didn't write down a parts list.
Great video except for putting the expansion tank on its side allows it to keep air in the system
With a bladder expansion tank , it doesn't matter which way you mount as you purge all the air out of the system and the air bladder keeps it "Tight". Only problem is when the internal bladder fails , it will fill the tank up and may rip off the mounting if not properly secured . If manufacture specifically doesn't allow it then you follow their guidelines, but most say any orientation is fine as long as it is secured correctly. Mine needs another bracket installed as the sheet metal screw is loose to backing plate. Thanks for watching
Id like to see a full view. Its hard to see what you have when your close up the whole time.
Hi,
If you watch my video on Boiler abnormal noise, then that shows a good overall picture.
How many GPM your running?
1/2 GPM , basically if you don't have a boiler pump and are using the zone pumps only, then you need enough GPM flow to activate the boiler / water heater. Since I have a boiler pump in addition to the zone pumps , I could go higher with the GPM but .5 GPM works good. If your return temp is low, then a higher GPM will be needed to supply enough heat to the end of your pex runs , in order to heat the slab . Thanks for watching
Having trouble getting mine going. I have the hydro smart single zone system. I am using the Takagi tankless water heater. I have 7 loops averaging around 270 ft each. I can’t get the boiler to maintain 0.5 gpm so the heater won’t stay on. It’s starts out around 0.7 then drops until the heater turns off. I even swapped the pumps out from 1/25th hp units to 1/6hp units and its didn’t help. When I purge the system with a 1/2hp utility pump I can get 1.5gpm. I’m just not sure what to do next?
@@jasonferree3541 1/6hp should easily maintain 1/2 gpm. Did you check your screen on strainer and the inlet screen on the Takagi? Also make sure your pumps are on the highest speed if you have the 3 speed ones. Make sure that your system maintains pressure as a leak will allow air bubbles and will lose pressure and gpm. Remember that the utility pump puts out more GPM then most of the zone pumps, so any restriction will not be as noticeable during the purge.
@@JasonRUclips ahh, yeah I need to check those. Thanks for the advice!
Well I feel stupid but it was the filter screen going into the water heater. I’m running 1.6 gpm with the pumps set on lowest setting now lol. Excited to heat up for first time!
You have no idea what you're talking about. 😂
cool...You still recommend the T-H3M-DV-N (Takagi) ? I see suppy house now has it up to $925.00.
They used to allow space heating under the warranty , but now they changed it to exclude radiant heating. I don't know why but maybe due to problems with customers whose units froze because in a house, the water heater wouldn't be only source of heat . Houses would have a furnace and so tankless heater wouldn't be in extreme conditions. Just my guess. Mine has been working for over 5 years with no problems so just know that buying one, you may not get warranty. But you could buy 3 for the price of 1 boiler , thats how I look at it.