bud of mine had the same exact mower with basically the same result....he gave me the mower on some trade off for labor on a generator...after tearing down connecting rod broke and the end of the camshaft broke. most of this is due to NOT CHANGING THE OIL! i dont know what it is but people will not change their oil regularly in a mower. these little engines work HARD!
Nice! I just finished a 17.5 briggs 31c707 . I needed counterweight links crankshaft connecting rod and seal kit. Was able to get everything used and same model make date cde parts so I was lucky. Clearance on the crank to connecting rod is .0012 Mine was so worn it was .0051 Crank had wear ridges. To get aluminum burn on ur supposed to soak crankshaft in muriatic acid. Don't file Orland them. The clearance tolerance for thise crank journal are very small. If not right it will wear very quickly
Holy crap, have one that did the Exact same thing. Crack in sump and all..connecting rod and counter weight blew. A little damage to the head.. sorta thinking about using some JB weld to
Is there a market for blown engines throughout most cities? I have a 17.5 hp Kohler engine where the piston seized up and I don't know what to do with this motor. I was able to get a used engine to install in the body of the mower. The motor still has the parts like the carburetor, starter etc. How much could I sell this engine "as is"? What would be a fair price to ask for it? I have never dealt with this situation before, doublewide6. I'd appreciate any suggestion that you could give me. BTW. I really enjoyed your video on how to disassemble that motor. Great job!
Great video dw6!! Sorry I'm wayyyy behind in watching RUclips videos. Yeah sometimes you win some and loose some. I ABSOLUTELY hate when someone lies to me though. It makes me so mad. I try to be upfront and honest with people as much as I can because that's what I'd want them to do with me. My brother and I just picked up 2 tractors ourselves. One is a cub cadet 582 special. A pretty rare tractor. Needs restored badly. Also got a sears suburban square fender tractor. Probably from the 1950's-1960's. Paid about $80 an item in a packaged deal with 2 plows and an old John Deere snow thrower. Got lots of work ahead of us. Lol.
Wow as a professional mechanic there were two major mistakes made. First of all the rod cap is not interchangeable to another rod. Why do you think they would not just sell one. Second of all when the torque wrench clicks, that’s it don’t give it just a little more like you did. Why use a torque wrench if you won’t use it correctly. I don’t want to hate on you, but others watching might think that those things are acceptable. There not, you got lucky that it would even turn over. Replacing the entire rod would only have taken you a little longer. Now you have a engine that is going to cause the next owner problems. And by the way if you do decide to fix it right. Throw all your connecting rods away and buy another new one. And be sure to polish and measure the crank journal. Again thanks for the video, but I hate it when the context is wrong, and in your case it is really wrong.
i would also add that he should have pulled the piston and honed the cylinder then used new piston rings. leaving the piston in is new to me. anytime i have to tear into an engine that far she is getting new piston rings.
Where does it indicate he is a professional mechanic? Small engine mechanic? Regardless people cut corners and don’t always replace everything in rebuilds. So just because we get into a motor and then we don’t replace every component that doesn’t mean we’ve done something wrong it just means that we’re taking a risk on using old parts mixed with you. I think sometimes also people that do small engine fixes have it in their mind that they’re not as important as like a car engine would be in rebuilding one because it’s cheaper and it’s easier. So they don’t go the extra mile even though you would really need to operate on it like you were in a brain surgery OR. Most people don’t. Also Penny pinchers don’t spend money they think they can get away with not spending. Bottom line is he does what he thinks he needs to do and as far as the torque wrench issue, people just build bad habits over years and it’s hard to change what they do because they’ve been told that it is the correct thing to do so they do it and only years later find out maybe that it’s not actually the right way that I learned it so it’s hard for them to come back around and do it the right way. It’s instinct almost of doing what you learned years ago later on in life with never checking to see if you were taught right or not.
just by looking at the insides my take would be the owner allowed the valves to get really loose and over time it caused the compression release to break. that metal from it just lying around inside an engine is bound to tear something else up eventually and so the counter weight was the casualty of it.
Great informative well articulated video, thanks. It’s also worth going back to the opposite big end bolt, once full torque goes on the final side. Sometimes they do move a bit more. On engines with metal particles in oil that will end up in the piston bottom oil ring and live there to scuff the low side of the bore. Can also become impregnated in the piston if it’s steel. Really enjoyed the video and all the good information.
I think that style of one cylinder Briggs & Stratton is terrible because of the counterweights what was the matter with the original ones that didn't have those type of counterweight yeah they had a bigger counterweights on the crankshaft but when they blew up they didn't destroy the whole engine maybe that's what they wanted I guess yeah I don't like them either the better ones are the ones with the oil filter pump!
Did you try adjusting the torque wrench? You can adjust them, you need a digital reader to adjust it easily. Or just some time and weights. If you plan not to, I'll totally take that off your hands! Ha ha
The positives I got out of this video. 1. An internal view of what I'm going to encounter when I open my engine. 2. Tear it down to see what you need. What raised a concern... not replacing the entire connecting rod as it is a matched set. You paid for the whole thing, why not use it? Only takes a few minutes to do it right. ...AND, when the torque wrench clicks...STOP! Don't go any further.
@@darenyoung8045 and hone the cylinder and install new rings for the piston. you already got the bottom end open you might as well change the piston rings while in there.
@@doublewide6 please do you think is possible can you share the number of part from this 17.5 Hp engine about the camshaft.please I will be really grateful!!!
these are the worest disign motors. the weight is always pushing down.. off setin the weight arms all the time.. stupid stupid build.. breaks and scrapum needs to stop making these style motors
bud of mine had the same exact mower with basically the same result....he gave me the mower on some trade off for labor on a generator...after tearing down connecting rod broke and the end of the camshaft broke. most of this is due to NOT CHANGING THE OIL! i dont know what it is but people will not change their oil regularly in a mower. these little engines work HARD!
Nice! I just finished a 17.5 briggs 31c707 . I needed counterweight links crankshaft connecting rod and seal kit.
Was able to get everything used and same model make date cde parts so I was lucky.
Clearance on the crank to connecting rod is .0012
Mine was so worn it was .0051
Crank had wear ridges.
To get aluminum burn on ur supposed to soak crankshaft in muriatic acid. Don't file Orland them. The clearance tolerance for thise crank journal are very small.
If not right it will wear very quickly
pode ser em português👍
Holy crap, have one that did the Exact same thing. Crack in sump and all..connecting rod and counter weight blew. A little damage to the head.. sorta thinking about using some JB weld to
Is there a market for blown engines throughout most cities? I have a 17.5 hp Kohler engine where the piston seized up and I don't know what to do with this motor. I was able to get a used engine to install in the body of the mower. The motor still has the parts like the carburetor, starter etc. How much could I sell this engine "as is"? What would be a fair price to ask for it? I have never dealt with this situation before, doublewide6. I'd appreciate any suggestion that you could give me. BTW. I really enjoyed your video on how to disassemble that motor. Great job!
Great video dw6!! Sorry I'm wayyyy behind in watching RUclips videos. Yeah sometimes you win some and loose some. I ABSOLUTELY hate when someone lies to me though. It makes me so mad. I try to be upfront and honest with people as much as I can because that's what I'd want them to do with me. My brother and I just picked up 2 tractors ourselves. One is a cub cadet 582 special. A pretty rare tractor. Needs restored badly. Also got a sears suburban square fender tractor. Probably from the 1950's-1960's. Paid about $80 an item in a packaged deal with 2 plows and an old John Deere snow thrower. Got lots of work ahead of us. Lol.
Wow as a professional mechanic there were two major mistakes made. First of all the rod cap is not interchangeable to another rod. Why do you think they would not just sell one. Second of all when the torque wrench clicks, that’s it don’t give it just a little more like you did. Why use a torque wrench if you won’t use it correctly. I don’t want to hate on you, but others watching might think that those things are acceptable. There not, you got lucky that it would even turn over. Replacing the entire rod would only have taken you a little longer. Now you have a engine that is going to cause the next owner problems. And by the way if you do decide to fix it right. Throw all your connecting rods away and buy another new one. And be sure to polish and measure the crank journal. Again thanks for the video, but I hate it when the context is wrong, and in your case it is really wrong.
i would also add that he should have pulled the piston and honed the cylinder then used new piston rings. leaving the piston in is new to me. anytime i have to tear into an engine that far she is getting new piston rings.
Where does it indicate he is a professional mechanic? Small engine mechanic? Regardless people cut corners and don’t always replace everything in rebuilds. So just because we get into a motor and then we don’t replace every component that doesn’t mean we’ve done something wrong it just means that we’re taking a risk on using old parts mixed with you. I think sometimes also people that do small engine fixes have it in their mind that they’re not as important as like a car engine would be in rebuilding one because it’s cheaper and it’s easier. So they don’t go the extra mile even though you would really need to operate on it like you were in a brain surgery OR. Most people don’t. Also Penny pinchers don’t spend money they think they can get away with not spending. Bottom line is he does what he thinks he needs to do and as far as the torque wrench issue, people just build bad habits over years and it’s hard to change what they do because they’ve been told that it is the correct thing to do so they do it and only years later find out maybe that it’s not actually the right way that I learned it so it’s hard for them to come back around and do it the right way. It’s instinct almost of doing what you learned years ago later on in life with never checking to see if you were taught right or not.
Well he said he was dumping it on some one who will have a blown up engine. Dam shame people think there mechanics
I’ve never seen anyone switch rod caps like that before
Wonder how long it will last ???
My thoughts exactly..
just by looking at the insides my take would be the owner allowed the valves to get really loose and over time it caused the compression release to break. that metal from it just lying around inside an engine is bound to tear something else up eventually and so the counter weight was the casualty of it.
Great informative well articulated video, thanks.
It’s also worth going back to the opposite big end bolt, once full torque goes on the final side.
Sometimes they do move a bit more.
On engines with metal particles in oil that will end up in the piston bottom oil ring and live there to scuff the low side of the bore.
Can also become impregnated in the piston if it’s steel.
Really enjoyed the video and all the good information.
What size of star bit that used to get rod bolts out of 17.5 Briggs stratton
engine.
I have the same mower that one of the counterweight arms shattered. Can you tell me the part # for those please? Thanks
They say to take all the spring tension off of it every time you get done using tork and it'll be within one or 2% of your torque rating!
Can you accidentally put the counterweight in backwards?Just asking me and my father-in-law put one together and we can’t remember which way
Come on man, I'm dying for part two. Great part 1, BTW.
The connecting links that go to the ballancer have a bevel on one side that goes up towards the pin. Have to put em on right or they won't oil right.
WHAT TOOL DID YOU USE TO REMOVE THE CONNECTING ROD SINCE NOTHING WILL FIT IN THAT TIGHT SPACE. JEFF WETUMPKA ALABAMA
Good job I am learning, thanks keep on rebuilding.
The crack in the oil sump could be a result of the the broken link on the counterweight.
Coming along nicely.
sixtyfiveford So far so good. I was wondering what editing program you use?
Windows Movie Maker seams to be my go to. I've used Adobe Premiere, it has a ton more features and is designed for Pros but takes to long.
Another good video. You're the man!
I think that style of one cylinder Briggs & Stratton is terrible because of the counterweights what was the matter with the original ones that didn't have those type of counterweight yeah they had a bigger counterweights on the crankshaft but when they blew up they didn't destroy the whole engine maybe that's what they wanted I guess yeah I don't like them either the better ones are the ones with the oil filter pump!
Next time you see him tell him the best lawen mower ever
Where do you buy the counter weight from?
from the shop
Change the rod
I bet it changed it’s self out the side of the block
thanks for making the vid so detailed!
really should have changed the entire con rod not just the cap
My thoughts exactly! You never miss match parts, that rod will blow in short order I guarantee!
It’s history this next time
Boom 💥
I would never switch caps on any rod , it’s a mistake to do that
Great vid man.
john hightower Thanks I need to get to the Part 2!
That guy wouldn't have had to tell me it was leaking oil, I would of found it when I I checked it out before I paid. 😏
Doin a good job on it so far!
Dave Horst Thanks. Do you do small engine work?
Did you try adjusting the torque wrench? You can adjust them, you need a digital reader to adjust it easily. Or just some time and weights.
If you plan not to, I'll totally take that off your hands! Ha ha
The positives I got out of this video.
1. An internal view of what I'm going to encounter when I open my engine.
2. Tear it down to see what you need.
What raised a concern... not replacing the entire connecting rod as it is a matched set. You paid for the whole thing, why not use it? Only takes a few minutes to do it right.
...AND, when the torque wrench clicks...STOP! Don't go any further.
yeah go ahead put the new rod in while its down that far..guess dif strokes
@@darenyoung8045 and hone the cylinder and install new rings for the piston. you already got the bottom end open you might as well change the piston rings while in there.
Good vedio Doublewide
skirtdevil Thanks !
@@doublewide6 please do you think is possible can you share the number of part from this 17.5 Hp engine about the camshaft.please I will be really grateful!!!
Phil Anselmo rebuilds a lawn mower engine :)
lmao!
I gave you a thumb up and subscribe, thanks for the video, you are loosing money on this mower
OMG...you lost me when you bought a new connecting rod but then removed the endcap half and bolted it to the old connecting rod.
these are the worest disign motors. the weight is always pushing down.. off setin the weight arms all the time.. stupid stupid build.. breaks and scrapum needs to stop making these style motors