Briggs V-Twin Engine Rebuild for the DIYer - Craftsman YT4500 Lawn Tractor
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- Опубликовано: 12 дек 2020
- What I thought was going to be a sump gasket replacement turned into a partial engine rebuild. This video walks DIYers through the whole process, from diagnosis to repair. Do you think this project was worth the time and expense? Let me know what you think. Buckwsr, Putting the "Do" into "Do-It-Yourself."
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100% worth it vs $1400 for a new engine. You inspired me to fix mine vs new. Thank you!
Yes, you did a professional, clean, Job and I think you enjoyed the rebuild, and build up that know how!!!
Excellent, truly enjoyed this. I was captivated for a while - thumbs up.. great job.
Great job Buck! Keep up the good work.
Excellent work Buck. Well worth it. Sorry about the having to report you for not wearing gloves but wearing those suspenders thing. Great vid!
Ha ha. Yes, I know I look like moron in those suspenders, but it's better than the alternative of having my pants fall down!
Thank you for tutorial. Gives me hope.
I like the "Do" in do it yourself sir. Much appreciated comment. I do have a mechanic to mechanic question/observation. I don't usually put the rtv on both sides of a gasket. I like to use an adhesive on the side of the part that gets removed, and then use the rtv on the other side of the gasket. RTV on both sides might allow the gasket to float or slide easier. Just my thoughts sir. Very nice video. Thanks for your efforts. I'm also a fan of the JB weld on projects to save money. I'd think it would hold up just fine right there.
Thanks for the note. The engine ran great for me after this repair, and eventually about a year later I sold the tractor. It was running perfectly at that time.
Really good video !! Very well done Interesting and helpful !! I have a 24 hp V-twin that has been leaking. This will help me a lot !! Thanks !
Thanks so much, and good luck.
As other comments on your videos have stated, really commend on the footage and explicit angles and details there feller !...I too am a DIY type of guy... really locked in with you to be a better DIY feller myself...🇺🇸🙋🇺🇸🙋🇺🇸🙋 eastern N.C. 4th generation !
Thank you so much! Really appreciate you watching and commenting!
Gracias por sus enseñanzas
Thanks for a great video, very surprised that there was no aluminum transfer to the crankshaft journal from the disintegrated connecting rod!
I watched this video first, before I even diagnosed it as my sump gasket because it's the exact tractor and I wanted to get a general layout. Got it all apart and cleaned up, Amazon lost my gasket in transit for a week, which really messed up my rhythm.. well, forgot to get the oil pump shaft lined up, so it effectively came loose in the engine and the connecting rod shattered.. so looks like I'm actually gonna need everything in this video afterall...
Thanks for the tip
The problem with your ring compressor it was up side down. The chrome bands need to be close to the cylinder
Otherwise, a very good video . I don't use the Briggs gasket for the oil sump. I use Gray silicone it works great never had a leak, or come back using it. 😊
Good job.👍
Thanks, Joe!
Did you Check the Gap on those rings off Camera?
Hey question I replace the sump gastar my exactly lawn mower but when I put the engine back and try to fire up don’t even click any advise please !!!
Is it worth it? A new 21 hp engine is $700
Great job
I got the same mower and I changing the sump gasket but I think I mess up with trottle cables can you send me a pic of your how you do it ?
"overkill" is sometimes necessary to correct the "professional" engineer's mistakes who design this crap!! Good job! Great detail video.
Thanks, Lawrence. To be fair, the engine ran well for a nice handful of years before failing. It does feel good to now be able to get some more life out of it. It belonged to my neighbor, but he upgraded to a zeroturn, so he gave the YT4500 to me. It's good to have a spare mower, and since I like tinkering and repairing things, it all works out great for me! But yeah, sump gasket failure appears to be a common issue with these engines.
Does the rebuild kit have a part number?
Good afternoon, great video, very informative. My only suggestion is please try to limit the movement of the camera. I was getting motion sick from all the jerky movements. Honestly everything was great. Since a new engine costs about $1400, I thgink it was well worth it. Thanks again
Did you get the crack fixed
I would have cut my losses after the engine block crack... It lost oil and the issues destroyed it. I would have gotten a junk mower and used that block before messing with this one. Let me know if it blows next year. Curious if that JB weld holds.
I will keep you posted. 👍
Loved the video. I plan on starting some small engine work as a hobby. My question is where do you go to get the parts, breakdowns, and specs for these repairs?
The internet is always your best repair tool in your toolbox! In this case, I used the Briggs and Stratton engine Model, Type, and Code (stamped into one of the valve covers) to go online and find the parts breakdown diagrams, and thereby order the parts I needed to do this job. Good luck!
How did the cylinder 1 crank shaft journal look? Did you have to resurface it at all?
I probably should have....but did not. Running pretty good still, as we mow with this tractor weekly.
@@Buckwsr Thats awesome!!!!
Thanks, I am facing same issues, but both rods broke as pistons are not moving, but valves are, strange, never seen both rods going at same time. So how about an update to determine if it was worth the time and money. Enough time has passed to see if your bolt solution holds up.
I used it for about a year before selling it. Ran great for as long as I had it. Thanks.
The one rod being broken, that could have contributed to vibration that caused the sump bolts to loosen. I have found new engine blocks and like new engine blocks on eBay and reasonably priced. I have redone 2 engines with no issues.
Awesome! I used that rebuilt engine for over a year until finally I sold the tractor, convinced it would hold up well for the next owner.
Where do you find the manual for the engine repair specs? Instruction manual.
I think I just looked up that info online using the Briggs model, type, and code. I can't quite remember.... I did not have any printed manual.
Viewed this to get an idea of whether a Husqvarna with a 24 horse Briggs with a broken rod is worth doing. Did you have any scored cylinder wall from broken rod? Every broken rod I've seen in single cyl Intecs did bad things .... Even a bent camshaft with a broken cam shaft boss.
Your JB weld holding?
All I can say, Gene, is that as of right now, my wife is mowing with the tractor each week, and so far so good. If it had been a customer's tractor, I think I would have suggested a replacement engine. (It had been my neighbors, but he gave it to me when he bought himself a zero-turn). But for myself, I was willing to take a chance, rebuild it, and keep my fingers crossed.
If it’s getting too much crankcase pressure? You should just blow the holes out, if you use a threader you are asking for more problems, just what they say.
I watched this because I have my 25hp V twin Briggs & Stratton engine tore down and waiting for parts I saw a lot of the same problems I have been having with mine and found some good ideas to help I hope, My problem was that the oil leaking caused carbon buildup on the heads where the valves ate and I ended up overheating the valves on one side until they bent the pushrods. Thought I had more problems until I got it tore down thankfully not so just 2 bent pushrods the remedies I hopefully found was the possible ability of stopping the oil leaks. thanks for the video.
Thank you, sir, and good luck with your project.
If you have not buttoned it up yet check the valve guides on the hot head. They tend to migrate out when hot and that is what causes the push rods to bend. just saying!
@@newsnowriversidesgtrock8144 Thanks for the tip
I’ve had good luck rebuilding them, but new rings are to high , I gauge them in cly if ok I reuse them
Hey AllWAYS change the Governor seal for sure
Use electric ingraver to make several tracks on sump cover and KW seal use blue 242 or very very little red271 on sump bolts
Thank you for the good tips!
I will buy the two rod bolts of good rod if for sale
TBH I (even after a year of publication) would like to have seen the tractor working and cutting grass. For the sake of another 5-10 minutes after over an hour, really wouldn’t have been that much more to watch but would really have ‘put the bow on it’. Did it work?..or did it blow up?..or??
Thanks…good video otherwise. 👍👍
P.S. Did that JB weld hold or fall off or ??
Thanks, Steve. Well, as you can see, I did include some footage of the engine running. I couldn't include any footage of actual grass mowing because it was February, and there's no grass to mow at that time of year where I live, ha ha! But we mowed with the tractor the entire summer season following the repair, and the tractor continued to run great, even up until this Spring when I passed it on to a new owner.
@@Buckwsr Awesome!! Great job 👏. Yeah that February grass is pretty elusive where I live as well…it’s there but it’s just under 5 or 6 feet of snow if one was so inclined. LoL 😂 Personally I’m not that adventurous…I’m kept busy pushing snow that time of year.
**Fun Fact** This year my last day of plowing was May 1st. …and yes I am north of the border.
👋👋 thanks for all the great videos, I really enjoy them…take care. 🤙🤙
@@FourSeasonsNorth4x4 Thanks, Steve. I'm in New Jersey. We get a couple of snow falls per year, but not much.
Hey I have a 23 hp vtwin engine and I need piston rings and cans fine the exact ones. Model number is 445577. Can you please send me the link where I can find the right piston rings thanks
Lots of places online where you can find the exact parts for your engine. You need model number, type, and code. You'll find what you need.
www.partstree.com/models/445577-0755-e1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/cylinder-crankshaft-camshaft-air-guides-piston-rings-connecting-rod-3/. The first two numbers of your model number are the size indicators. The above listed link will get you to an "official" Briggs parts look up. Be careful to check date code (the third line on the engine information stamped into the valve cover. It should be just below the model number.) Briggs changed parts after 050718 July 18, 2005.
@@newsnowriversidesgtrock8144 You sir are a wealth of information! For that I thank you as I still have some older Brigs engines around here. 👍👍 Many thanks!!
@@FourSeasonsNorth4x4 I do not make videos, only comment when I think some information has been forgotten or misrepresented There are two very good sources of educational videos about small engines and repairs in general. Check out Taryl Fixes All and Mustie1. There are many other good sources as well.
@@newsnowriversidesgtrock8144 I’m already subscribed to both. Same here..if I see something that is incorrect or out of place and could hurt or cost someone $$, then I may speak up/type up as it were.
I comment and only when I know from teachings and/or personal experience….otherwise I keep my beak to myself. LoL 😂 I also do not make RUclips videos..yet. LoL 😆…there are plenty of other experts out there that can do that and far better I’m sure.😉👍
I know this is old video and maynot see this comment but if you do and remember how much were parte
Yeah, it's been like 3 years now, and I just don't have any more info on the price of the parts. Sorry. Thanks for watching the video.
PS don’t use cheap sump gasket, use bs or name brands
Quite a few things here, coming from a professional diesel tech.
Bolts came loose likely bc of one of the following reasons:
Lack of factory loctite
One-Time-Use Fastener
Lack of proper Re-Torquing
Lack of proper Torque Procedure
Lack of Proper Torque (torque wrench not correctly calibrated)
Leak likely caused by contaminated silicone from contamination on mating surfaces.
These engines run with a LOT of crankcase pressure and do not have PCV/breathers. It’s a wonder to me how they don’t burn through all their oil.
You should ALWAYS clean surfaces to be silicones with the purest and HIGHEST strength isopropyl alcohol you can get, and when you think it’s clean and ready, clean it twice more. You’ll never have a leak then, unless again… your crankcase pressure is too excessive. But if that’s the case USUALLY your crank seals will start leaking first. I’m not a huge fan of silicone gasket maker, to me it’s engineers being lazy, but some gasket manufacturers like fel-pro picked up the gauntlet where the engineers left off and do make gaskets for gasket maker applications and they do work.
Now finally to the no’s, or rather the “hell” no’s. If you have a mating surfaces meant to be siliconed that are NOT PRIORLY DAMAGED, YOU NEVER, EVER, EVER EVER CREAT YOUR OWN SURFACE FINISH. If you find somebody else has been in there and improperly cleaned the surfaces and they need “re done”, then you do it AS FOLLOWS:
DO NOT use steel wool
DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS
DO use a scotch bright pad
DO apply LIGHT pressure
DO create sealing paths PARALLEL to the direction oil will be coming from
This repair WILL leak and will do so because he used power tools and wire brush attachment, he removed too much material in multiple spots, and this creates excess clearance. The silicone is not designed to deal with this excess clearance and the excess crankcase pressure these engines produce.
Thank you, Ryan. Despite the somewhat condescending tone, you have given us a lot of good advice. I appreciate that. I will also say that it's been about 15 months since I did this repair, and it has held up just fine, clean and dry, and still running good. The engine had over 1000 hours, and I really had nothing to lose (except a little money and time) in attempting this repair. A quick online search reveals that I am not the first to realize that following factor specs for this sump gasket replacement will not suffice. So I felt free to try some unconventional methods. And so far, so good.
First, "These engines run with a LOT of crankcase pressure and do not have PCV/breathers.," is incorrect. All of these Briggs V-Twins have a breather and a special breather filter. The filter is even gasketed and a new gasket comes with the complete rebuild kit or can be purchased individually. Second, most of your "hell no's are correct except, "DO create sealing paths PARALLEL to the direction oil will be coming from." scratches "PARALLEL to the direction oil will be coming from.," will create a path directly from the interior of the sump to the out side and facilitate a leak. Either Parallel to the sealing edge or perpendicular to the direction of the oil source would be the correct direction of the silicone capture groves. A groove in the center of the sump case wall sealing surface lining similar to a valve cover gasket rubber seal would also work. Third, "This repair WILL leak and will do so because he used power tools and wire brush attachment, he removed too much material in multiple spots, and this creates excess clearance.," is as stated by others is very condescending and if you are not clairvoyant is also not a purposeful way to work with others and be helpful when your "suggestions" do not work.
@@newsnowriversidesgtrock8144 My thoughts exactly.
whats up with those fingernails?!
I pick my nose a lot.
@@Buckwsr 😆😆😆😆🤣😂🤣😆😆😆🤣😂🤣😂🤣😆😆😆