Fitting working end of train lamps
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- Опубликовано: 2 сен 2021
- Had this little project in the works for a while now. Certainly adds some extra fun and realism to the layout. I've still a few more to fit but slowly I'm getting through the various trains on the layout. I'll be back with some progress on the station in the next video. Cheers
Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio - Hackers 
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Crazy how I’ve seen you go from your first ever videos when you was testing points on a bare bones layout. To seeing your how to build a model railway series which I believe got you your first million views . To the face life of a whole new layout now here we are todsy catching up on the last 5/6 videos. Richard you truly are a master at your craft . I don’t have the time money or space to fulfill my ambitions off building my own layout but I tend to my love for model railway through ur videos ! Never stop building !
I love that something as simple as a lone flashing light is keeping all those trains 'safe'. Very good detailing. And looks great on the layout.
EXCELLENT EXCELLENT!! I'm really glad to see someone "ie , you," has addressed this issue with model railways. To me it makes a big difference. Well done!! 👍👍👍
The tail lamp initially signified "Train complete" to a Signalman in the old manual signal boxes - or anyone else on or about the line observing the passage of a train. In the old days of absolute block, along with no or limited track circuiting and loose coupled or partially fitted goods trains, it was a vital visual assurance to a Signalman that the passing train was complete and that he had left the section as clear as he'd found it; i.e. there were no rogue breakaway vehicles left behind. Nowadays, track circuiting pretty much proves the route is clear but tail lights are still a comforting sight for all concerned. Sadly, modern model makers have still not realised the important significance of displaying a tail lamp because they provide no function to turn off the tail lights of their engines when coupled to a train. In the real world, any loco pulling a train and displaying tail lights would be stopped as soon as it was discovered and until the error was corrected.
Many years ago, we had a new station manager at Reading. She was Spanish.
She saw a freight rolling through the station and saw the tail lamp. Then went off in a panic, called the box and reported a train in trouble. Shut the station for about an hour.
She got a sideways promotion shortly after.
Great video,i'm now going to fit some end of train lamps.👍
This took me longer then it should to work out. Your video helped a lot cheers.
Great job Richard!
Always admire your work Richard, and the attention to detail. As someone who has worked on the railways since 1991 and with NSE at Eastleigh I will say that the era of your layout pre-dates those Dorman style taillights by some distance. We still had the previous taillamp with the bardic battery and toggle switch well into the new millennium.
Yet another fine project for the dark evenings approaching.
👍🌌
Excellent 'how to' video there Richard, thank you. For such a small detail those lamps make a massive difference to the trains.
I was a signalman before moving on to looking after the yellow train fleet. Yet I still check trains for a tail lamp whenever I see one pass, can't help it - it's imprinted 😊
Been using these for years. Such a great product.
When I do mine I remove the pin for the white cable by using a scalpel.
With the yellow and purple cables, I cut the quite short, maybe 3-4mm.
Remove the sleeve from the cables, twist together and solder.
Makes it a little neater.
Cheers, I'll de-pin in future.
Great How to do video Richard. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing this install. Most enjoyable information and demo.
Well done, Richard. Great stuff and done with your eye for detail!
Very well thought out. Great detail. Thanks Richard. Roy.
80s forever ! Your channel rocks mate 👍
That's an awesome piece of detail..... and really does finish off the wagon.
Just what the doctor ordered for a Friday evening in! Great timing Richard! :)
Very cool , awesome look . Wow .
Very nice and thanks for clearing this up for me and others in a well explained video.
Great job 👏
Excellent! I do approve of flashing tail lamps. I am in the process of doing something similar in N gauge, but with DCC control of the lamps.
Great video, beautifully explained.
That circuit is insanely big! You can get SMD LEDs that flash slowly by them selves, no circuit board needed.
You still need to convert the DCC signal into a usable 12v for the Leds. They wont flash connected directly to the track. Agreed the circuit would be smaller though. Ideal for some of the wagons.
@@EverardJunction 1 diode and resistor will do that trick. Can even add a small SMD capacitor across the LED for stay alive.
Also will be more cost effective
looking good there
Nice work, they look great. The sight of a flashing red light disappearing into the night reminds me of standing on the platform as a boy. Looking forward to seeing the station.
Very neat job 👍
Very interesting and adds another level of detail to an already superb layout, well done Richard
Nice update with loads of detail.
That intro tune is banging!
I add a basic Hornby chip to the circuit. I can turn the lamp on or off at will. Your engineering is amazing.
They hornby chips are handy for stuff like that. Cheers
Nice one!
Excellent I've been looking forward to seeing this video 👍🏼
Brilliant, yet again.
Good morning Richard, my wife suggests you put a market in that space where the cars are running. it also won't obscure the buildings
Excellent wee tutorial Richard. It is certainly a great device and it looks superb! 😎 Great to see work on the station area and I look forward to the full update when it comes! 🤓
Have a great weekend 👍🍻🍀
Very good video as always Richard. Nice and informative 👍
Super cool! Stéph.
Great video! I noticed that you install a left and right pickup on the same truck (on both ends of the railcar). One word of caution would be that if someone is running metal truck frames, they wouldn't want to do that as the electrically live axles would short out through the trucks. As mine are plastic (and I suspect yours are, too), that isn't a problem. If you have metal truck frames, you could arrange the wheels so that they both pick up from the same side in a particular truck, with the other truck picking up from the opposite side. While not as ideal for dead areas of track (like diamonds or frogs), it would be much better than a single pickup on each truck.
I would definitely paint all the gubbins with a grey or black paint.
Did that today, very effective once on the track. Cheers
If you're interessted, White Bat Audio also has a 50 minute playlist. Called "80s Retro Synthwave MIX - Miami Vice"
The whole playlist is royalty free by the way 👌
Excellent video of how to install the EOT's ..... I also use these along with the pickup springs. I have also installed these with an old dcc decoder so I can turn them on and off with the loco address.... keep up with the Excellent layout updates.
Lovley job Richard I find the small details like lamps really bring a model to life well done mate.- Nicholas.
Good explanation of the wiring on the lights
Another great video Rich.
we always love your films , best wishes from wigan , still in lancashire , the home of the class 40 s
Great job Richard, which makes such a difference to the realism and overall atmosphere of the layout.
Looking forward to seeing the station progress.
Best wishes from the Wirral.
Thanks Richard, that was a very interesting video. I’d wondered how those spring type pickups worked ! I use iTrain with block detection so had intended to fit some form of tail lights to my loco hauled trains , not only for aesthetic reasons but for a more practical reason - so that iTrain will know when the whole train has moved out of a block and not just the locomotive.
Watching with my tea haha! Looks a good video, no doubt as great as the rest!
...the one and only Everard Junction is back on! Good times.
The first bit is just like an eighties railway training video.
How to use the short circuiting bar. Or. Train protection in an absolute block signalling area.
Hi Richard thanks for sharing an interesting video I am still on DC so I have installed on my coach end stock battery powered flashing light and managed to install on my two racks of MK2’s lights which really shows off the passengers their newspapers and bags etc. See you on your next one, please stay safe..
They look good. I hadn't seen these before. I've just bought a latching reed switch to try with a magnet to turn on and off a little loco's front and back lights.
Very nice👍😊
Its really great to see you hands on because although we know these are models, when seen running in your layout, its difficult for my aged brain to not realise they are not the real thing. I only got to play with the real things, so its great to see what level of realism you are going down to. When i started on BR trains didn't have headlights like they do now, they only had illuminated route box indicators or double white lines on front and double red lines on rear when ECS. This was on 415 and 416 epb units. That was the inner suburban and the loco hauled for long distance passenger. Also brilliant you have train crews in cabs as it was quite common for other train crews to travelling passenger in rear cabs. I'll be looking out later on for a crew to be "Paddling Up" to change the shoe fuse.
I recently did this to a rake of BR MK1s using the wiper pickups. The train hardly moved so I switched over to the spring on axle method. The train looks fantastic in a low light.
I had the same problem with the wipers. They're handy for a single vehicle in a train but not the whole thing.
"Flashing Red End Detector" commonly known as FRED have been around for a while now.
It is something that makes a lot of sense for your layout and I am (as always) impressed with each aspect of Everard Junction.
It's "device" instead of detector where I live! Mistake or regional variance?
Red end detector🤣
From memory, working on the railways. The rule book on tail lamps was basically: if a train passed (freight or passenger), not displaying a red tail lamp / lights, you could assume the train was incomplete (or divided). Eg. Possibly, part of the carriages or wagons had become come detached. In practice; more likely the lights had not been put on by the train crews; (on a passenger unit as an.example).
Have you concidered having the magnet switch under the roof of the wagon? Then you could switch them on and off manually with a handheld magnet, and also they would not be affected by any kind of magnetism from the rails!
If the train looses power for even a second the lamp would go out and stay out until activated by the magnet again. Just the way they work unfortunately. I got fed up with them turning off when they went over some points or dirty track so decided to remove the feature.
Excellent job. For future reference, the Mark 1 lamp brackets are at staggered heights on either side of the Pullman gangway (around half way up it). The piece you drilled out was in fact the ETH socket.
Yes, another video!
Another excellent video from you as always. Very informative. I fail to comment on your video's which I will try to put right. 🚂🚃🚃🚃
one thing that I know that when yo take a car out of service if it be a tanker, box car ect and you need a EOT you would put it on another car so that you have a EOT while the other one is in service for repair. Great video here on how and where you placed the EOT on them if there is a way that you can move them around would be perfect but I know that it is almost imposable to do, your video have gotten me thinking of EOT for my setup that I am thinking about building or making from old parts that I have laying around the apartment where I work. if it is posable that I can do it witch I feel more than able to make and it dose run on the same way that you have in your video here I will let you know how it turned out without having to spend money when you could save some in these times we live in.
I use conductive ink to bridge the wheel insulation without the danger of damaging the bush. Its made for drawing connections for components on almost any surface, including paper.
I've tried that a few times and had mixed success. The last one I did corroded and eventually stopped working. Stuff was called Liquiwire
I don't know about some but if anyone is wanting a end of train light like this. If you use Bachman they have a wheel set fited with said light and it has a realistic coupler that the light stays on.
IMPORTANT NOTES BEFORE BUYING!!!! MUST READ!!!!.
Note 1: the light dose do well on dcc or dc its fine.
Note 2: back of the box that the light is in is not painted so it might light up the end of your train car.
Note 3: if you get this the train car HAS TO BE from bachmann. I don't know if it will work with others Rolling Stock makers but this thing is best for bachmann only!
Note4: last time i checked it was like $20 to $30 us dollars to buy just one little wheel set with said light and the motherboard chip to run it as of 2021 September 4.
I'd personally put the white wire out of the connector just to neaten it up a bit more and reduce the chance of any short. Those JST connectors have little flaps on each pin, if you lift them up you can just pull the wire completely out.
Cheers, will do that in future.
@@EverardJunction No worries, don't mention it :D
Hi Richard anther great video mate I have been looking forward to a video like this thank you for making this video I am putting in tail lights in some of my mk3a sleeper coaches I am every with them It isgood to see now you do it Richard my layout is model on the wcml in the 1980s using 12v Dc so I am looking to more of my trains with tail lights stay safe and well mate goodbye for how clive in N Ireland
Loving the opening sountrack!
I'd love to put lights into my old Irish train carriages and do what you have done. I am making a model railway.
👍👍👍
Would love to see a steam rail tour with a 37/47 on the rear with one of those tail lamps fitted. Perhaps you could find a none-runner going cheap and rip the motor and gearbox out so it rolls free.
The battery operated flashing tail lamp hasn't been around, possibly as long as you might think ! There were still lots of oil tail lamps in use at the end of the BR era, which gives you a little more choice. Just be thankful you aren't running GWR passenger trains with "Slip" coaches. Which could require as many as 3 tail lamps on one vehicle all in a cluster, to identify the number of slip portions included in the train !!!
Happy modelling, your layouts coming along nicely.
I might add one or two oil lamps in future as they were still about following the widespread flashing lamp introduction in 87. The oil lamps were eventually banned in the early 90s. You won't be seeing any slip coaches any time soon! Far too complicated as you say, cheers.
Awesome video! Thanks, Richard! I hope you don't mind, but I've linked to this video from the End of Train Lamp webpage.
The kenny Everard - Video cassette. Signed "Teeth in a Glass"
Great video. I am gathering all the supplies together to start adding interior lights to my rakes of coaches. I have a mainly steam era layout & will add the appropriate lamps to the end coaches. Just interested in the size of that fine enamelled wire you are using & where you get it. 😀
Good idea and well explained as always, but for simplicity ill stick to the train tech motion ones 👍👍
Hi Richard, just saw the vid on flashing tail lamps.
I've done similar and fitted latching miniature reed switches I use magnetic pick up tool to switch on or off. Just a hint for you.
Regards John.
Does it draw enough current to be sensed by block detection for the end of the train?
I`m now modifying some rusty rails lamps to do the same thing
the layout is coming along really well Richard m8. The only thing it desperately needs is some decent DCC Sound to add atmosphere etc . Keep up the great work bud. :)
Great video and techniques! Using a decoder for each tail lamp seems a rather expensive approach but the simple method of bridging the wheel-axle insulator is brilliant (I had wondered about soldering wires across). I wonder what you think of the alternative battery tail light systems with motion-sensitive switches
Good
Great video there Richard they look very good and would look great on any sort of train, may try them one day, just one thing I want to ask in future when you are doing a video like this just mention whether this can be used on DC as there was no mention on the box or by you in the video, I do know these are able to be used on dc having just been to the website and the installation sheet being available to read on the website.
I watched this on the big screen for the first time, looks easier enlarged lol.
Are you at GETS next month?
This is a very nice work of art! do you think you could show me how to install a working lamp in steam and diesel locomotives?
How do the pick-ups on both bogies combine with the branch-line loop where you turn around on to the same track. How is that loop set up anyway?
this is at least as complex as when you showed how to wire switches - ty for the exquisite detail - one question does it matter which way the pickup strings long ends point - i.e., should they all point in the same direction or does it matter - ty for posting! :)
I love the idea of the pickup spring - very neat.
How reliable is the little slithers of wire in the bushing?
Is there a metal - brass perhaps - bushing replacement to remove this requirement?
Al.
How would you wire the tail lamps on an item of coaching stock that you fitted interior lights to?
just tap power from the wires from the lighting circuit and hide circuit board as necessary
Correct, I've done that to two of my coaches
Nice. I hope DCC Concepts make sets for steam era lanterns... it would make installation easier on brake vans and locos.
Hope this helps...
www.dccconcepts.com/product/working-shunt-lamps-lmsbr-4mm-scale-red-and-white-6-pack/
^RB DCCconcepts
@@flipvideodemo thanks a lot, Richard. This is exactly what I need.
When I had DC , I just put a little paint on the axle and and it would flicker as it passed the contact🤷🏿♂️
Those springs are a great way to pick up power, where do you get them? Cheers, Mark
They're called pickup springs and are made by DCC Concepts. You can get them from most online model shops, cheers.
Excellent 80's synth pop intro music :) Deffo a nice feature to add a whole lot of realism to the models Richard, I'm working on a 3d print of these lamps but I'm going budget and try a flashing red led inside the coach connected to some fibre-optic cable & the DCC Concept spring pickups - I think it should achieve a similar effect.
What gauge wire is the enameled stuff you connected to the pick up springs please? All the best.............Andy
I've used the fibre-optic method in the past. Certainly worked well if a little more time consuming. Not sure on the enameled wire size, think its about 0.4mm. Cheers
Spring pickups won't of course work with die-cast underframes or bogies.
I wish the rest of the world had been created with the same attention to detail as Everard Junction!
Do they not have a standard location ie left or right, I see you have them on either side on different carriages
There was/is no regulation for which side they go on.
A brilliant tutorial! I wish their instructions were as straight forward…
Hi Richard. Thanks for a brilliant video of your work. I do, however, have some questions:
1. Someone has mentioned "Slip Coaches". What are these?
2. When was the change-over from solid red tail lamps to flashing ones?
3. What is the criteria for whether the flashing red lamp is fitted to the left or to the right?
Thanks in advance.
How model railways have evolved from the oval layout