In my (very limited) experience in preparing boards, I've found that it's nice having two planes, especially if there are a bunch of knots. In my case, an old no 5 with a heavily cambered blade set for an aggressive cut to hog off material, and another no 5 with a slightly feathered blade set for a finer cut, that would gently shave down the knots, and at the end more or less smooth everything after I was done with the first plane.
hello guys, I was just about making a foreplane, but i think i wrapped my mind around something, and then I can use what I have (and maybe make something a bit non traditional). in Germany/Europe we have the scrub plane, the "schlichthobel" and the long tryplane (we call it raubank). and smoothers. the "schlichthobel" has no camber on the iron and is just about an inch longer than the smoother. In my apprenticeship i learned that it is used after the tryplane and before the smoother. The tryplane was used at first , for heavy stock removal too, what was a little weird, because we learned that all planes have to have a straight, 90° edge so in order 1. scrubplane, 2. tryplane, 3. schlichthobel, 4. smoother. and you say 1. scrubplane if needed, 2. foreplane, 3. tryplane if needed 4. smoother so Mike, i think what you do with your short plane is using a "schlichthobel" with a camber as the first plane. my three questions: 1.should I build a 16" foreplane ,as you can't buy them, they are not common around here. or get along with what I have ? 2.did I learn a wrong order in use of planes? 3. and do you guys have an idea why the foreplane is just not as common here? so now I stopp writing, as it would get only more confusing. I'd be glad if you reply. greets christoph
Very helpful Mike. I see that you generally use wooden planes. Was wondering if you have thoughts about using transitional planes? As good as or not as good as wooden planes? Are they less quality than wooden planes, etc? Thanks, Don
Ok lads, I’m with you here but I’ve still got an issue: I usually work in N. European oak and especially quartersawn rips out brutally when I‘m making my initial passes to get my ref face. often is so bad that it remains into my finished pieces. (I sell it as ‚character‘) tried everything. Any tricks I may not have yet considered? I have no machines so using a smoother right from the mill is an option but I may die before I finish a single board.
When dealing with tearout, I usually (first) make sure the iron is as sharp as I can get it. If it's a double-iron plane, get the cap iron down close to the cutting edge. Set the plane for a light cut, and advance it as far as you can until it starts to tear out, then back it off. Also, traversing is a good way to mitigate tearout in initial thicknessing.
Rex Krueger linked your channel. Great video on fore plane. I've watched several of your site and learned a lot and subscribed. Thanks.
this is very helpful
In my (very limited) experience in preparing boards, I've found that it's nice having two planes, especially if there are a bunch of knots. In my case, an old no 5 with a heavily cambered blade set for an aggressive cut to hog off material, and another no 5 with a slightly feathered blade set for a finer cut, that would gently shave down the knots, and at the end more or less smooth everything after I was done with the first plane.
Thanks for this one, nice video
I've been wondering what the "strike buttons" were on wooden planes. Thanks for demonstrating!
I really needed this video. Thanks.
My mates ! Always moving fore…ward!
hello guys,
I was just about making a foreplane, but i think i wrapped my mind around something, and then I can use what I have (and maybe make something a bit non traditional).
in Germany/Europe we have the scrub plane, the "schlichthobel" and the long tryplane (we call it raubank). and smoothers.
the "schlichthobel" has no camber on the iron and is just about an inch longer than the smoother. In my apprenticeship i learned that it is used after the tryplane and before the smoother. The tryplane was used at first , for heavy stock removal too, what was a little weird, because we learned that all planes have to have a straight, 90° edge
so in order 1. scrubplane, 2. tryplane, 3. schlichthobel, 4. smoother.
and you say 1. scrubplane if needed, 2. foreplane, 3. tryplane if needed 4. smoother
so Mike, i think what you do with your short plane is using a "schlichthobel" with a camber as the first plane.
my three questions:
1.should I build a 16" foreplane ,as you can't buy them, they are not common around here.
or get along with what I have ?
2.did I learn a wrong order in use of planes?
3. and do you guys have an idea why the foreplane is just not as common here?
so now I stopp writing, as it would get only more confusing.
I'd be glad if you reply.
greets
christoph
Very helpful Mike. I see that you generally use wooden planes. Was wondering if you have thoughts about using transitional planes? As good as or not as good as wooden planes? Are they less quality than wooden planes, etc? Thanks, Don
Is foreplayn like petting ?
Any suggestion on the camber radius of the foreplane?
Invented be…fore….plane…. Indeed:)
Ok lads, I’m with you here but I’ve still got an issue: I usually work in N. European oak and especially quartersawn rips out brutally when I‘m making my initial passes to get my ref face. often is so bad that it remains into my finished pieces. (I sell it as ‚character‘) tried everything. Any tricks I may not have yet considered? I have no machines so using a smoother right from the mill is an option but I may die before I finish a single board.
When dealing with tearout, I usually (first) make sure the iron is as sharp as I can get it. If it's a double-iron plane, get the cap iron down close to the cutting edge. Set the plane for a light cut, and advance it as far as you can until it starts to tear out, then back it off. Also, traversing is a good way to mitigate tearout in initial thicknessing.
none of the other youtube channels gave the fore plane any importance wasted time with jack planes