POURING CONCRETE FOOTERS (Mike Haduck)
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- digging, forming and pouring a concrete footer. We had to find our heights for the block work and concrete, build our forms, and poured a concrete footer for a block garage, Mike Haduck, all my videos are my ways and ideas, I always suggest anyone doing any type of work to consult professional help. www.amazon.com...
This man has a lot of wisdom and discipline. Incredible skill and confidence of what experience and maturity brings. This amazing video has given me ideas on the base footing for a cinder block wall. Like fine wine, age gets better with refinements and character. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks jade, I appreciate the kind words, Mike
thanks for your help and sharing your experiences. I've been doing masonry work for 23 years. i had 3 different bosses inside a 20 year period. now I have had my own business for 3 years. I have finally created customer support,and I'm saughtafter due to my quality of work and keeping my word. I was taught how to work hard,and then faster,no one told me how to apply it on my own to feed my kids,until now,thanks for the education. thank you Mr.hadduck
Hi Casey, these kind of comments make me feel I am on the right track, I appreciate, thanks, I hope I keep living up to it. mike
HEY MIKE !!! BEST plain stated, laymans , NO Bullshit , this is how it should be done video with explanation ...... NEED YOU IN CONGRESS !! thanks
Hi Lamont, I wouldn't do good there but I appreciate it. lol, thanks mike
I have nothing but admiration and respect for Mike. If I ever get asked who taught me how I do my work I always give credit to him.
I love his videos and the way he teaches is just plain awesome.
Mike to me is the one and only mason I ever refer to when it comes to learning.
Hope you have a great day, mentor. Regards one of your apprentices 😊👍🏻
Thanks Fresh, I appreciate the kind words,mike
Thank you for sharing, I learned a few things here that I have not, from the other hundreds of concrete videos I been watching. So thanks for the added insight/commentary.
Thanks Bert, mike
The Mike Haduck Tailgate Reviews ..... my favorite part of the vids. Someone should compile all of them. Great great great. Hope your week has been good Dr. Mike
Thanks Thor. Mike
Omg thanks you for explaining the vertical rebard placement . It help me alot thanks again
Thanks Paul, Mike
THIS is EXACTLY what I just spent over 3 hours trying to find. GREAT video!
Thanks Cameron, I am glad if it helps, Mike
Hey Mike, I know this is an older video but really enjoy your explanation, and the way you do the dry setup, also the templates you use to show how things are done, same way I make parts for and construct my hot rod! thanks for posting.
Thanks Kent. Mike
i like this guys attitude. nothing fancy. get the job done.
thanks Suzanne, keeping it simple, I appreciate it. mike
I like the way you think, very simple and lots of experience, thank you for your time and such a nice informative video.
Thanks villa, Mike
Sure do appreciate this video because it answered some questions I had. I'm fixin' to build a stone wall that will have one ninety degree corner and several columns. It's not much at a total length of approx. thirty feet, but I want to do it right...so it will last. I'm using a white natural limestone rock. I have learned a ton of stuff watching Mike's videos. I now have a rock facing chisel, a few hammers of varying weights, and a brick hammer. I'm also building another wall utilizing new, and some used bricks, that I have been collecting for about two years. Once that wall four foot wall is around the perimeter of my rear deck and patio, I'm going to mix up the sand/topping myself, and finish the wall with either a Santa Barbara or Sand stucco texture, and then apply white Portland Cement finish. I just bought a new 1-9/16" High Output SDS Max type Rotary Hammer and a 1/2", a 5/8", and a 3/4" star tip masonry bit set...overkill? I'm thinking that making some holes for some pink fiberglass rebar will be a lot more fun than operating a 90lb. pneumatic jackhammer hooked up to a four cylinder Ford air compressor...busting bedrock for 12 hours a day in 95 degree Texas heat...'cause I've done that...but I was 19 years old then...and I'm 63 and minus one leg today.
Thanks Kandy, I am sure the wall will come out beautifully, Mike
Concrete man and then saw you are a banjo picker too. Great stuff.
Thanks bigal,, Mike
Mike. You are the best.
Thanks Robert, Mike
Honest mike has his paws in everything.
Hi MD, all I can say is don,t try to borrow money from him, lol, mike
Hey Mike Haduck, thanks for posting and sharing, l like your hand tamper “helper” he always holds the ruler straight and still, and he don’t give you no lip.
thanks Len, very true, lol, mike
Hey man I start a concrete footers job tomorrow and I don't know anything about them.... Until now!!! Thanks man, abc explanation not complicated at all, now I know a lil something and won't look like an idiot on my first day. Thanks again man!!
Thanks Solo, I hope it all works out, thanks mike
We like Mike, Mike is best at less is more, TY
Thanks Bruce, Mike
Fantastic video! Incredibly informative
Thanks, Mike
Just went to your channel, love the old video clip from the 60,s I had a pickup just like that one!
Thanks again Kent, mike
Thank you for explaining this step by step.
Thanks Bruce, Mike
Thank you you’re knowledge is very helpful
Thanks Paul, Mike
There are four types of footers. You forgot to mention frank footers... great with relish :-)
I'll have to remember that, lol, thanks mike
it is a footing not a footer
Ur an amazing teacher!!! I'm fascinated now
I am just passing along what I learned from the old timers, thanks mike
+Mike Haduck hi mIke! I was wondering also do u have an email I can reach u at for some ideas. Thanks!
Looks like a lot of extra work. I've been a laborer on several footing jobs. The guy would just paint out the lines from the blueprint, start digging it with the track-hoe, and I'd shoot grade for him as we went. There were no form boards, we used the dirt banks as our form. Then tie the re-bar in, put it up on chairs, go back and put grade stakes in for our concrete height, and pour it.
I agree, but they will not let us do that here, "new codes" thanks mike
Great video as always
Thanks Gypsy, Mike
Love you Mike
Thanks Meyer. Mike
Great stuff ! We're looking to do more informative and breakdown videos as well !
Thanks, Mike
Thank you for explaining the right way
Thanks, Mike
Honest Mike must be the mob boss in your area, looks like he controls everything 🤣
Good video as always. Sorry if you already covered this point but a comment sometime on how in perfect world You, would prefer how to back fill and tamp a block on footing as this was probably the root of my problem on this 50 year old house I live in.
As a apprentice plumber back in the 70's I was always alert to when the guy with the puddle truck was going to do the house I was laying ground iron in. They would simply push all the dirt from the basement hole into the ditch outside the foundation and this guy would have a pump on his tanker truck and he would walk around the outside ot the house with a 3 inch house and a 3 in. pipe and he would shove it into the ground to compact the soil. Sometimes it would find it's way under the wall where the drain layer shoved his drain pipe in and it would fill all my plumbing trenches and I would be working in mud. Go, Go, Go was the plan of the day. Everything was bid so low and only one chance to do things right. It's a wonder that anything is still standing at 35 years. Glad I am retired now. Thanks again and keep the camera rolling.
Thanks EZGZ, I can see you seen it all, I agree, mike
The addition is bigger than my entire house
Thanks Chaz, Mike
hahaha! Honest Mikes concrete. Honest mike is always causing a ruckus!
Yep that’s Mike is always onto something, thanks Mike
Very good 👍
Thanks, Mike
So, after watching all of Mike's videos, the main thing to know is "everybody does it differently". A long as you know that you should be able to do 90% of what Mike does.
Hi The District. also lots of different techniques in different areas of the country, what works in Florida does not work in Alaska, I appreciate it. thanks, mike
Mike, why did you put that rebar into the foundation you’re pouring next to? What about letting Concrete float?
Hi geno, I let concrete float on sidewalks, pads, patios etc, foundations and structural concrete is a whole different ball game, thanks Mike
Where have you been all my life? I will be watching your video's from now on. We are on the same page. Thank you
thanks rich, I appreciate it. mike
Great video! We had to dig out an old footer for a basketball pole. The hole is the correct size needed for the new footer, but the top 12 inches is too large because we had to dig out dirt around old to jack hammer it out. Can we just secure a form at the top half and pack dirt tightly around it and pour?
Hi Sandy, I couldn't say unless I was there to see it, Mike
YES SIRR...THANKS MIKE..!
thanks M D , I appreciate it. mike
I'm a layman/do-it-yourselfer who is interested in construction, and I try to read up on it. I like your no-nonsense videos. I have always understood that steel reinforcements should be completely encased in concrete so they don't rust from the outside, in. So when I do projects like walkways or retaining walls, I go to the effort to suspend the rebar or wire. I guess my question is, are those "chairs" steel, and is it okay to just set them on the ground to hold up the rebar? Thanks.
Hi Re, for hundreds of year there was no rebar and no concrete tucks and their work is there for years gone by, rebar is a new thing and no matter what anybody says sooner or later it will rot away no matter what you do,, I got to do a video on that, thanks mike
In Australia Footer are wrapped in Bulders Plastic to protect from soil moisture also on on bottom we lay crash rock helps with drainage and leveling
Howdy Great, I know everywhere is different for sure and lot of things work for the better in different areas, no worries there, thanks mike
Interesting as always :-) I see Honest Mike is on the job again lol
yep , I can't be too serious, lol mike
Well explained
Thanks J, mike
Another great video, I watch every day a video by Mike , I''m happy I discovered him. If you are so kind as to answer me 2 questions: 1) is it necessary to put a bitum sheet on the footer before starting building the concrete blocks and2 ) if it's not compulsory why the concrete blocks are wet about 2 feet from the footer, what can I do in this case, I didn't put any bitum sheet, what could be the cause? Thank you so much, I hope you find the time to answer my questions, Artist of Building!
Hi Daniela, I am not sure what you are talking about, but cement cures underwater, so wet blocks or footers have had no effect on any job I ever worked on that I could remember, thanks, Mike
Great video! Does the vertical rebar every 4 ft have to be tied into the horizontal bar sitting on the chairs? I thought they did. Maybe Florida, where I am located, is different code. Please keep making these.
Hi MP, you got to do what the inspector says, I film my work so everyone knows it was done, personally I can't see how a piece of wire holding the rebar will make a difference, is mostly for infections purposes, thanks Mike
much appreciated thanks so much! Pat
I’ll never lay footers for a school or house personally. Still watched the whole vid. :)
Thanks patty, mike
very helpfull...you do great work
thanks, I hope it helps , mike
The best part is when you are on the back of your tail gate answering questions at the end!!!!! HA HA HA good job.
thanks Justin, I appreciate it. mike
"....2nd law of thermodynamics and God contribute to the earth moving"
That is awesome. 🙌
Thanks Jeremy, God got his plan, thanks Mike
So your saying that it is normal for a footer to move after say 50 years on a house? i developed a step crack on my block basement wall that is above ground on that part of the house. I had a structural engineer look at it and he said dont worry about it, just fill it in with some mortar caulking. Its been a year and did not crack since. We had a really bad winter that year.
Hi Iar,, I never seen a masonry foundation that dosen't have some sort of cracks in it, thanks Mike
Thanks for taking time to make this video. Do you dig the center of the line where u mark for the wall? How low the footer should be beneath ground level? How many rods should be for the corners and how tall up? Apparently there’s a lot more detail than 11 mins video could show but please reply or make another footer video if u have a chance. Thank for your sharing your knowledge
Hi T, the inspectors determine size and debt, etc, thanks Mike
I have a 40x60 cement block barn I'm building. The ground slopes 4" +/- in 3 directions from the top corner. What would be your suggestion for the footers... dig down and waste 3 rows of blocks on the top portion... backfill everything level THEN put my footers in... or try and do 10' stepped footers all the way around? I can't dig down or the water will flood from the top.
Hi T, It's impossible to say unless I was there and then you got these code guys and inspectors and who knows what they are going to say, I would ask one of the locals, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks...I appreciate your time!! Have a great weekend!
thanks for your reply mike if you ever come to uk to do vids on masonary i know you have cathedrals and canals and railways but thers good stuff to see hear and cathedrals and castles nearly 1000 years old one or graetest civl engineers built the longest single arch bridge over river thames in maidenhead its a brick masterpiece look it up they all said it would collapse brunel left centering in for twelve months and designed whenn trians were 10 tonnes and going at 30 mph now there hundreds tons and going at 125 mph brillaint craftsmenship and over engineering and vision from brunel if you ever come i would love to show you around
ps still going thru your vids
Just wondering. I was digging in my basement of my 140-year-old house. I was digging next to a post to place a temp post on a concrete filled quiktube. As I dug down from the side I kept seeing rock after rock under the old post. It then occurred to me. When they built the house, did they dig a big hole, dump a bunch of boulders in it and then put the post on top of it? Thoughts?
I can not say, might be where the gold is hid. really I would have to be there to even guess, but I appreciate it. thanks . mike
You mean to tell me that you were not around when they built houses 150 years ago? lol. j/k But they had to set those post on something more than what is visible to the eye. I guess I will see when I pull out a post and start digging. Thanks!
Mike Haduck
Thank you for the gift of education. Keep up the good work.
Just found your videos and subscribed. Great practical and detailed info! Like the concrete guy with the Louisville gear!!
Thanks David, I appreciate it. mike
Question - House, 32’ X 54’, peer & beam, concrete block on concrete footings.
Should I add 2 more footings and blocks so I can use 2x8x16’ floor joists or not and go with 2x12 joists. The extra concrete will run about $1200 then extra steel, extra blocks and labor. I’m thinking 16”x20” footings. Central Oklahoma, soil drains well. Which should I do? Total lumber for 2x12 joists will run about $3600.
Hi Jack, that is a structural stuff, you got to go through the inspectors, etc for that, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck No inspectors here. This is way out in the boonies.
@@jacksprat7087 look up joist and beam span charts. They will show you what’s spans are for using 2x8’s.
You are not going to be able to span a 2x8x16 joist without at least 1 support in middle. Charts will give span max depending on size and species of wood. If running joist over top of beams you will definitely need blocking in between the joists.
If you use hangers and butt joist level with and inside beams you should need blocking on 2x8’s.
Buy you should stay with max of 8’ length and not max distance out. 8’ will have less bounce than 10’ which is what you are allowed using 2x8 pine.
Do you have to get below the frost line for any footer?
Hi , yes code is 42 inches
Great video
thanks, I appreciate it. mike
I’m currently at uni but my real love lies with farming and building so I’m trying to learn as much about building as possible. I saw you were still answering questions and I have a few questions.
You said the life expectancy of a building is around 35 years. Is that just a fact that can’t be changed or can it be possibly even a few hundred if you build correctly?
Secondly, I saw a video of the YT channel Practical Engineering (you should check it out, it’s really interesting) which said that one of the biggest threats to concrete is the rusting of the rebar so rebar should always be a few centimeters in the concrete. I see that’s the case but the chairs you put in place are not. I was wondering if it would not be better to put small pieces of concrete under the rebar or do the chairs not cause the concrete to rust?
Hi, everything anymore is permits and inspectors, your going to get a lot of good and bad advice no matter what way you go, I only show what works for me, I hope it helps, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Okay, thank you for taking the time to reply to me
Mike, I live in Ohio and I want to built a block storage shed. The frost line, from what I have researched is about 32" deep. this means my footing should be 16" wide and over 32" deep?? that seems like a hell of a lot of concrete!
Hi There are not many building block sheds anymore, most get them the premade delivered or pole type barns, thanks Mike
Thanks for the great info
Thanks Earl, mike
I will pour a monolithic foundation. Hardi Flex structure. In your opinion would my home be stronger if I pour a 3 foot wall off the foundation and build the Hardi Flex from there. Or builf the Hardi Flex right up from the foundation?
HI ...CAN YOU TELL ME WHAT YOU WOULD YOU SUGGEST THE SIZE OF THE FOOTING SHOULD BE FOR A CINDER BLOCK WALL 8 X 8 ? MIKE I LIKE WAY IN THE BOONIES BUILDING COULD IS VERY LENIENT THANK YOU
It is impossible to give advice unless I was actually there to see it. I would ask the local guys, every situation is different, thanks mike
16" x 8" is typical of a concrete foundation or bearing footings. That's here in the midwest, If u live o n west coast things are different
Do you need a vacation in Tucson Az? I need help with building a cinderblock wall. Lol
Hi Sally, I think my lifting cinderblocks are over with, But I appreciate the offer, thanks Mike
Mike
I watch all your videos great stuff
Question,
When meeting a poured foundation to a new block foundation do u need an expansion hint or epoxy between the poured and block ?
Hi Tom, I never remember using one on a footer, thanks Mike
Mike I really enjoy your videos and had a question about cement all I used it to build up a small cement slab yesterday and ran out of material so I was wondering if it would be okay 2 add more on top and if so will it stick and should I wait longer before putting it on thanks a lot and thanks for sharing your expertise with everyone Pat
my experience with cement all is you could keep adding, (if it is a patch and not structural) I just make sure the surface you are covering is wet good and then it should stick fine, I hope it helps, my opinion of course, thanks mike,
Do the vertical rods have to go all the way to the top? What if you build a block wall and want to extend it a few feet later?
Hi wolf, I am in extensions all the way into the roof with anchor bolts, I show dad and how I do like work part 3 to 8, I hope it helps thanks Mike
I guess I was thinking about more of a freestanding wall like a block fence.
The way you're installing the rebar would never fly in earthquake country.
Hi with, a little tip from a former law student-make sure you keep a log book and the inspectors and engineers take the liability, keep video records, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck In PA can you actually pour a footing without having an inspection prior to the pour? We have to have it signed off and the plans are stamped by an engineer. We're not allowed to wet set the rebar like you did. It has to be in place for inspection. It's not configured the same either. It would be nice not to have to deal with building departments. They can be a pain in the ass.
@@wthomas7955 thats a good thing, mike
First..thanks, this was killer.
Second...How much thicker/wider would your footer have been for a two story addition?
Hi Derek, Good question, If I got into that I would have to go by the plans and inspectors, and what ever they say I would go a little bit more, and get it in writing, thanks mike
First off, I love the 70 model square chevy at the end of the video. Just shows I watched the whole thing. Second, I am buying a house (built in the early 1900') and one basement wall is a new wall and the top row of block has tilted out and the middle of the wall is bowing in. That's the first problem. The wall on the right, The bottom row has completely collapsed (terra cotta I think) but has not sagged or broken any place else on that wall . And the wall on the left is old limestone (cracked). And the concrete floor is broken in a few places. Now I want to fix it. Now a few things are running through my head, First is it safe to lift the whole house (It's completely gutted) and second would it be better to pour a new footer AND the basement floor at the same time or in two stages. Thank you for any advise you can give. Loved the video.
Hi Mellonee, I did a video on "How I jack up a small porch or building" it might apply some and then you got to take it as you see it, a lot of those old stone buildings never had footers. I just usually rip out the bad part (like a dentist) and fill it in where it works, I did some other videos on how I repair stone foundations, I would ask the locals and see what they think and after some opinions take the best one, I hope it helps, thanks mike
Hey bud thanks for your response. I will look at your other videos. Thank you a ton. God Bless
God bless also, thanks mike
Hey Mike, my house has a footer has a section that is broken and sunk in 3 different places. I was wondering if I need to remove the old footer? Or can I pour a footer around the old one?
hi Brandon, If the footer is already settled I would just go right on top of that, maybe when they pored it it was over fresh fill and now it settled, I can not say unless I actually seen it but that is my guess, I hope it helps thanks mike
Can you explain more on your comment at 2:40 about every building built now (not on rock) only has 35 year life expectancy?
If God did not build it , it ain't no good, it all depends on how long you want it to last is how you build it, you would have to study the old building, thanks, I hope it helps , an opinion thanks mike
Mike Haduck I'm gonna build a bird bath now to think about to.arrows bid. in you uncle's honor. your great people
I'm surprised that you used straight rebar for tie ins. Typically those are L shaped and not to the ground, that will promote rusting of the rebar.
Hi Stan, I doubt they hit bottom, but all that rebar does more damage in the long run than they want us to know, I appreciate it, Mike
So as far as width and depth of those footers installed here, It was a x2 block wall, so 36" wide, as you said. But what you didn't say was the depth. I'm guessing you used a 2x12 for your forms. Is that accurate? 12" depth and 36" wide for your x2 block wall? And how high was that wall? What i'm really looking for is this; I want to build a 10' high block wall (single). What's my footer look like? 16" wide (i assume) but the depth is ....????
Hi Scott, anymore you got to go to the inspector and get a permit and he tells you what is code, then before you poor the concrete he will inspect the forms, on that footer it was at least 12 inches deep. check out my videos , how I do block work mostly part 4, I think that will explain it best, thanks mike
Thanks, i'll check it out. That piece of property is located in area where there is basically no oversight other than septic issues. So to save cost, I've been reading and watching everything I can get a hold of to gain as much knowledge as possible. I've found some that say twice the block for width, some three times the block width and the depth is the same, x2 or x3. Basically equal to. But thanks sir, I'll watch that video now. **edit** The x2 or x3 for width and depth was based on the height I was looking for, which is approx 10 ft.
thanks Scott. you are doing the right thing to ask a lot of questions, keep a log of every official you talked to and what they told you. I hope it helps, thanks mike
I thought the vertical rebar had to be tied in with the horizontal footer rebar to tie the foundation with the footing.
Hi Skilled Eddie, I think it would all depend on what you are doing, every situation is different, I hope it helps thanks, mike
What about footers for a full basement foundation. Same theory?
Hi silent, years ago ther was no footers (old stone then they went to concrete, now it is superior walls, everything is changing, thanks, mike
I can tell the New Joisy accent. 😄
Hi Paul, close, NEPA, I appreciate it. mike
Yeah I knew you had said PA but also you were in jersey for a while. Where in NEPA? Good videos thanks.
Hi Mike can a consult with you I need some advice. I am getting 6 different opinions here in Indianapolis Indiana. I am creating a Concrete Pool Slab .. How would you recommend preparing an areas for a a 16x16 pool pad poured on clay and water flowing around 1 side and two corners of the slab. Would you use a deep footer around all sides of the slab or can you get a way with partial footers as its a small slab. Thank you, David
Hi David, it sounds like you need a pool expert for something like that, I know from putting pools in with my cousin that every situation is different and a lot of pools do not have footers, I would ask the folks where you bought it, and ask if they have installers that could tell you,, I hope it helps thanks mike
Nice very nice. only one question don't you have a knuckle/monkey paw to act as a specialty rebar bender. it has three 1 and 1/2 nubs that are welded to a triangle 3/4 inch steel plate these are set up in opposition to each other also in a triangle set approximately 1/2 inch in on the face of your template. once you have the hand with three nub fingers built you weld a 3 foot pipe arm on it for leverage. you use the monkey paw in conjunction with your straight pipe to make a straighter angle. this helps as you carry your wall up higher. keeping the rebar close to the center of your cinder blocks void. keeping your actual rebar position closer to code. your rebar being in the center of your cinder block void. gotta keep your state inspectors happy. anyway I would/ recommend your videos to anyone asking how to build walls with block cmu or brick. I actally saw a fellow showing how to lay bock the other day. it hurt to watch he was using 6 inch block he butted a 16 against a six and called it a custom something or another when he came to the closer. then he used a hammer to cut the closer I cold tell by the sound he cracked the block at the web. no rebar placed vertically or horizontally for a bond beam. he just stabbed a bolt in for the carpenters. I am sure he will have a blow out when he pours his concrete unless he is ridiculously lucky. If it was up to me I would give you a grade of 99 out of a 100 and follow that withban A+ on your grade because you told your viewers to go to planning and zoning to get you specification and that all areas have different codes. I come from Arizona and understood every bit of information you passed on and could tell you weren't making it up as you went, years of experience. It would be an honor to work with you. keep up the good work. Jim BCC Az local#3 former contractor lic#66201
Thanks Heidi, I appreciate hearing that from a pro, it makes me feel I am on the right track, thanks, mike
Mike Haduck Masonry Heidi was my dog Mike best dog I ever had a german shorthair. she'd hunt everything from dove and quail to mountain lion and bear. I've got stories to tell you probably wouldn't believe. Had a choice between her and my x well I never regretted the choice I made.
Jim
Thanks Jim, with the wimmin I go out with, I completely understand, lol, thanks , mike
Mike Haduck Masonry I think your my twin brother. just lost must golden hound dog old yeller type dog. she was 14 or 15 years old. she snored like an ex really a comfort. told my cousin if I could pick women as good as I pick my dogs. there wouldn't be any problems ever. I even took her out to the job with me. we got rattlers out here couldn't be a better helper. I tried to feed her mortar so she could point the joints. now ya know why i lost my job. how ya been got any work?
what spacing did you use for the rebar from the walls of the form ???
I do not remember, but it was three rebar so I figure evenly , thanks mike
Under that footer, did you compact it at all?
never heard of anyone compacting virgin ground only fill, thanks mike
10-4 Thanks & Nice Video's
Is this the Everett school?
So with today's codes the house will last longer? Great foundations poor building materials equal modern structure.
Hi Billy, I don't think today's buildings outlast the mortgage, lol mike
If you dig with a 2 foot bucket, you can pour the footing to height. No forms needed.
Hi the greatecb, very true but with the new codes they will not let you do that here, thanks mike
Thats what we do here in the UK, the job shown would probably be 1m deep, 0.6m concrete fill, 0.6 to 1m wide, no rebar. There was one job my dad did where there was 3m concrete depth to put a 2.5m wall on top, because of bad groung.
I can't imagine just driving in straight pieces of rebar. Every state I've worked in they are installed and inspected before the pour and the are called J bars, look more like an L.
Hi Stan, I ask inspectors to put it in writing and my lawyer reqires a final written inspection report, but I never get one, and most times they never come back on the job, I wonder why? Thanks Mike
Hi mark, check out my videos on the pyramids, castles. Peru, great wall, there is no rebar used and everything they are building with rebar now has to be redone in 35 years, check out the comments from the guys who been in masonry 40 - 50 years and see what they say, with respect, mike
Mike, did Honest Mike charge you double for the concrete mix again?
I am still paying off my truck from him 15 years later. LOL. thanks, mike
. . . . and, I like his phone number! ;o))
👌👌👌👌
thanks will,
Excellent instruction
Thanks Don, I appreciate it, mike
ps we have wall its called hadrians wall built by romans to keep scots out but gladly it did not
work cos we love them the britsih armed services would not be the same and they invented things made things our royal family is half scottish and german just like donald and welsh and french when romans left lot of stone got stolen by people to build other things some still left up on border its prob 100 miles long
Hi Mark, I read about it and I plan to come to UK to film conwy castle maybe this year, I do not know yet but lots of history over there, thanks mike
loads of fine castles here queen lives in one at weekend and got one in scotland i think heard a good stone mason here restoreing cathedrals and castles stone can earn 2000 pounds a week heer if you know any younge stone masons/carvers tell them too come here if they cant earn that here the younge lads here seam too dont want it
I think you are a genius to put up a sample of how you want the footer and foundation wall to look. Doing that quickly communicates to everyone what the objective is . Keep up the great work !!
Thanks Jim, I learned it from the old timers, thanks mike
is building a block wall way cheaper than pouring concrete formed walls? Do you pour the block full of crete after you set them.
HI Phillip, I think it all depends on what and where you are doing it, it seems everyone got a different opinion, thanks mike
Awesome video! Have you installed ICFs at all?
Hi David, no never have used them, thanks Mike
Code code code. We used to hand dig with no forms. Pounded small rebar in dirt for leveling. Then transit level each one. Drank bourbon.
Thanks mike from minnesota. Voteing red next tuesday.
Gotta account for the lowest common denominator. You might do it right, but plenty of people wouldn't if there wasn't a code.
Shouldn't you put 4-inch clean 3/4 inch gravel underneath the bottle in the footing
Hi Donald, anymore you got to go with codes and inspections, I never seen anyone put gravel under a footer like this, next to it for drainage but not u underneath, thanks Mike
After watching your videos, I mixed some mortar with water and patched around my house. It worked out really well. Thanks and keep posting.👍
Thanks, Mike
Thank you Mike . Been watching videos on pouring concrete footers for several days off & on
Youre actually the first one to explain things . I appreciate this a lot .
Thanks Stuart, mike
do u ever go live mike? If not would you be interested in going live this winter on my channel. i have stream yard to where it is really easy
Hi Grubb, I checked your channel out and subscribed, I think you will do very well, very good videos, I don't do anything live ,slowing down and moving to Florida, I got a years worth of videos put away plus what I pick up down here, but thanks for asking, maybe someday, thanks Mike
@MikeHaduck thats whats up! i appreciate u checking out the channel. i have looked up to your channel for years. im not a mason, just a concrete guy! But i am an all around construction guy!
Thanks, I will keep checking up with you, maybe someday we will, Mike
Thank you for the videos, your information has helped me a lot!
thanks, I am glad when they help, mike
Funny... Before where you said where you were from, I thought Wilkes Barre/ Scranton area. I'm from Williamsport originally so I've heard that accent.
Hi Rowgy, You hit it right on the mark, Scranton Wilkes-Barre area nice to hear from Williamsport just went through there a couple weeks ago, thanks Mike