How to Form a Concrete Slab in Under 10 Minutes!
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- Опубликовано: 27 июл 2024
- In this video, Jeff Hershberger goes on-site at one of our Deco-Crete locations to show you how to prep for pouring a concrete slab. For a more hands-on experience visit our trainings page at: www.deco-cretesupply.com/trai...
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Развлечения
You are a natural teacher. Very informative video, well done
Thank you very much!!! We're glad the video was helpful! Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV👍
Great Job Jeff,Rod and Jason !
Just subscribed.
My first video of yours.
Great content and commentary.
I’ll be watching more.
Thanks
Going to be building a 24 X 24 shop and am debating on doing my own pad…this was a huge confidence builder for me…love the step by step instruction….ill do it exactly like this…thank you
You are welcome!! Hopefully, your project goes well! Please let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV👍
This would look like a government job IF there were 4 or 5 guys sitting on that Bobcat bucket…
Haha.....yes, and a few leaning on shovels, too🤣🤣
7:37 lol
Great video. Straight to the point.
Thank you!!!
thanks and love the ratio of watchers to workers there at the end!!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!!👍
You're a great teacher. My wife and I are going to work our own driveway up from the grass. I have some experience, but your video was able to show my wife how easy this can be. The video also really helped catch me up as well. Thanks again.
You are welcome!! We're happy to hear that the video was helpful! Thank you watching Deco-Crete TV!👍
Thank You very informative
You're welcome!! Thank you for watching!
super helpful! thanks guys
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!!!👍
Anyone;
I have an existing shed/garage which is sitting on railway ties. I need to remove clay about 4ft b4 putting in a concrete slab. Do I also need to excavate under where the blocks will be?
Awesome
Thanks for watching!!!
I put in a 12 x 16. My forms are in and I didn't have rock but compacted the dirt and threw in rebar. It's for a shed. Should I still put in rock or am I good with how i have it? I'm also about a 8 inches away from all sides with the rebar. Any advice would be appreciated.
3-4 inches of compacted gravel is recommended, however if this is your own project you'll have to decide if you want to take the risk or not. It's not like the slab is just going to fall apart, its that the dirt wont provide any drainage under the slab. 8 inches from the sides will be fine for the rebar.
Looks great! I'm about to do a 4.5m x 6m slab for a campervan. Should the rebar stick out the sides or is it best to leave them shorter than the overall length and width of the slab?
Thanks for the comment! The rebar does not need to stick out the sides. The best thing is to leave it short, around 2" of clearance on all sides is ideal. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Would you ever use 3/4 road mix as a base? Local gravel supply does not have 57 limestone
Thanks for the comment!! That 3/4" gravel will work fine if you can't find #57 limestone. We prefer limestone, but gravel is probably the most commonly use base material. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!
Where can I see a picture or video of that slab that’s stamped ?
Thanks for the comment!! Most of the slabs around this one in the video are stamped. Was there a certain one you were hoping to see? Or are talking about the slab in the video after it was stamped. If we don't have any existing photos of the one you wanted to see, we can take one for you. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!!
what do you do with the center (sprayed) cut-off rebar guide after the concrete has been poured? how do you get it out?
Thanks for the comment! Once you have the screed line established, you can either pull the grade pin out with a Vise-Grip or pound it down with a hammed. If you pound it down, make it's down far enough to get full coverage over it with the concrete. Otherwise it could create a weak spot. Make sure you do this as you go. Once you've screeded past it, you won't be able to get to it any more. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!
Do you have a segment on how to remove the existing concrete and pour new concrete?
Thanks for the comment! We don't currently have any videos on removing existing concrete. You can rent a jack hammer from most tool rental shops and bust the concrete in to small pieces so they are easier to dispose of. For larger jobs, you may rent a skid steer to remove the concrete and have someone haul it off for you with a dump truck. It just depends on the size of the job and how much hand work you willing to do. If you search "concrete slab removal " on RUclips there are quite a few videos out there. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!
I have a spot in the middle of a downstairs driveway that is triangular shaped and surrounded by existing slabs. How would I approach that? One side is the retaining wall, the other 2 are concrete. Would I just clear it out, level/gravel fill, then pour?
Thanks for the comment!! Yes, start by clearing it out and leveling it with gravel. The concrete should be at least 4" thick, but if the area is really small, you might want to make it even thicker. Make sure you put some expansion joint along the retaining wall so the concrete doesn't bond to it. For the sides against the driveway, It would be a good idea to drill holes and dowel it to the existing slabs. We hope your project goes well! Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
@@DecoCreteTV thank you for the tips!
Several questions Jeff... Where do I rent that concrete truck, how do I know Im getteing the right concrete? Where do I rent that compactor? Where do I get the gravel? How do I cut my rebar so its the right fit? Last but not least, How do I know I want a slope on it or not?
Thanks for the comment! The first thing to do is call your local ready mix concrete plant and tell them about your project. They will help you decide what type of concrete mix will work the best. You won't need to rent the concrete truck, they'll deliver the concrete to you ready to pour! Concrete ready mix plants are also a good source for the gravel and most of them will deliver it to your jobsite. The compactor can be rented from most equipment/tool rental shops. Small diameter rebar (3/8" & under) can be cut with a large bolt cutter, but an abrasive blade is easier. #4 rebar (1/2") and up will need to be cut with an abrasive blade, you could set up a blade on an angel grinder, but a concrete chop/cut off saw will be lot quicker. You can rent the cut off saw from the same place as you rent the compactor, you'll need the saw with a diamond blade to cut the concrete anyway. As for the slope, this depends on the situation. Exterior concrete needs a minimum of 1" of fall per 10' so water can drain off properly. But you can, and probably should give it even more slope then that. We're actually releasing a video tomorrow morning on how much slope to put on exterior concrete! Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Did you all use the rebar stands to keep y rebar level? I am readying a DYI effort. Thanks Scott
We don't normally use anything to hold up the rebar. Most backyard patios require a wheelbarrow or concrete buggy to get the concrete in place. It doesn't work to drive over the bar if it's chaired up. We usually just pull the bar up as we pour. If you don't have to drive over the bar, you could chair it up with blocks or rebar chairs. Thanks for watching!!!!
@@DecoCreteTV Fundamental misunderstanding of the purpose of rebar in concrete. Concrete is excellent compression stress and terrible with tension stress. Rebar provides support for tension stress and has to be place at the correct depth in the concrete to provide the propper support. Just having rebar in there somewhere does very little. ruclips.net/video/cZINeaDjisY/видео.html
@@markmercier6739 Oh yes, I know all about that from Dr. Buckner's class in Reinforced Concrete Design in college many years ago.
Need to do a flat 16x16 flat slab on a slanted/hill yard for a car parking pad
Any suggestions or do you know of a video available ?
Thanks for the comment! The excavating and forming would be the same as in this video. How steep is the hill? You can put quite a bit of slope on a slab like that, but depending on how steep the natural grade is, you might need to build up bottom side a little bit. 1.5" of slope per 10' is nice amount of slope to get the water off the slab but still feel fairly flat. Even 3" of slope per 10' won't be bad to park on, but you probably don't want to go much more then that. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!
@@DecoCreteTV approx 6’
@@milliewilliams4889 6' slope on a 16' slab would be quite steep. In that case, you would probably want to flatten it out some by building up the bottom side of the slab or digging into the grade on the top side-maybe even a little of both.
Ever build garage floor with metal screen mesh vs rebar?
Thanks for the comment! Wire mesh is a commonly used form of reinforcement. We prefer rebar for exterior concrete, but a lot of contractors use wire mesh. Thanks for watching!
@@DecoCreteTV Contractors like rebar and the stronger than mesh sales pitch. However, I talked to DIY and engineers say mesh is fine for residential garage.
Have the same shoes bro, hell hard to find. so comfortable :)
Heck yeah bro!!! Those are me favorite shoes in the world💯 Thanks for watching🍻
@@DecoCreteTV mine have been going six years plus. Shame they dont make em again
Is 3.5 inches think of concrete fine for a patio?
Thanks for the comment! 4" thick would be the standard for patios, and that would also be the minimum thickness for a slab on grade. The extra 1/2" of concrete is well worth the extra cost for exterior slabs. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Hello, very informative video. How far away from each other should wholes be drilled into existing concrete slobs for rebar installation? Thank you in advance.
Thanks for the comment! 2' on center would be the standard practice for the rebar holes in the existing slab. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!👍
Hello, and thank you for the response. How far away from the edge of the concrete slob should the holes be drilled, and also how deep should the holes be drilled, and what size of rebar should be used? Thank you in advance.
@@kevinjefferson9739 You can start your first dowel hole 1'-2' from the edge of the slab, and generally, they would be 8" deep. #4 (1/2") rebar works well for the dowles. However, the size of the full-length rebar for the main part of the slab would depend on the thickness of the slab. In this video, the slab was 5.5" thick, so we used #4 for everything. #3 (3/8") rebar would be better for 4" slabs. I'll leave a few links to some other videos on doweling slabs together and slab thickness. Thanks again for watching Deco-Crete TV, we hope your project turns out great!! ruclips.net/video/Kiwh2sVFghA/видео.html ruclips.net/video/IRO9wRSKfw8/видео.html
Hello, and thank you for the response. How strong the concrete should be-4000 psi or 5000 psi or more for the garage floor slab? What are the red rebar holders inside of the 2X6? What do they do, what is the purpose of them? Thank you in advance.
@@kevinjefferson9739 4000 psi will be fine for the garage floor. The red tubes are a part of the Quick Dowel system. There's a base that's screwed to the 2x6, the red tube fits over the base. After the concrete is poured and it's time to strip the forms, the base will come off with the 2x6, and the red tube stays in the concrete. This tube will serve as the hole for the rebar dowel. Eliminating the need for drilling holes. You can buy the Quick Dowels on our website, I'll leave the link below. www.deco-cretesupply.com/products/forms-expansion-wire/5-8-quicdowel-base ruclips.net/video/4XmPodKjz98/видео.html
Was there a reason you didn't do little riser blocks to get the rebar off the ground?
Thanks for the comment! We normally pour the concrete with a buggy and it doesn't work very well if the rebar is chaired up. We just pull the bar up by hand as we pour. In this case, blocks or chairs would have worked fine. Most commercial job will require chairs at a spec'd height. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
Hello Jeff 👍🔨📐
Good morning Charles!
Thought 14 gauge wire mesh is enough for concrete slab like this.
Most people would consider 10ga wire the minimum for a 4" slab, some use 8ga if it's gonna get vehicle traffic. This slab was 5.5" thick and gets heavy vehicle traffic. We just prefer working with rebar instead of wire for small slabs like this. If we had used wire, we would have used 6ga. Thanks for watching!!!
You didn't show us how to make sure that the corners of your slab is sqare.
Thanks for the comment! We have another video explaining this. I'll leave a link below. Thanks for watching Deco-Crete TV!!!
ruclips.net/video/fHlAAIj2fxg/видео.html
That bird at 3:40 scared the shit out of me. I thought I was getting pulled over 😂
Hahaha......we never noticed that, good ears! 😂😂
10 Minutes! you say...
😂😂 The video is under 10 minutes. Thanks for watching!!!
When you pulled out the 4 lb hammer and used screw you lost all credibility
Thanks for the feedback!!
so... you scrape gravel/rock away to then add gravel/fill after you form??? sounds counterproductive and wasteful
The slab in this video was in our parking lot that already had a gravel base, so in this case we could have used what was there, although what you can't see in the video was how chucky the base material is. The limestone fill is just nicer to work with. And don't worry, we didn't waste anything, we used the chucky base material in other parts of the parking lot. On most concrete jobsites however, there won't be any gravel base to work with and you'll have to dig into the ground. Thanks for watching!!!