Excellent Video, just wanted to add if this was not said in earlier comments. I would suggest bench bleeding the master cylinder. The reason for this is, if the master cylinder is not mounted level on the brake booster or this procedure of bleeding on the vehicle is done on an incline you can have a pocket of air that you will not be able to get out of the master cylinder. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks!!!! I have a 1990 4x4 and have been battling this for years. Even went as far as taking off all the abs equipment, running old school hard lines directly to new master cylinder and using a manual proportioning valve. Better but still....with a horse trailer...stand on it and pray the electric brakes on the trailer will stop both. Bled them to death. Even gave up and took to dealer whose only comment was..."stops better than mine." (mechanic has same year truck). You should maybe change the heading on this to read 88 to 98 c/k 1500. Ran into this by accident. May help many more people. Thanks again!!!!
Something to know. I was thinking about putting the later MC on my 95 and had my ABS light on. I rebuilt my front end and while doing it decided to put new timken wheel bearings on. My bearings didn't feel loose at all but while in there you know. Well, to my surprise, not only did my ABS light go out but my brakes improved big time. I don't think it was due to the the ABS but rather that my wheel bearings were worn and underload defecting and basically knocking my brake pads back so they had to travel farther to engage. It's been well over a year now and a lot of miles and mine are still good. Just a thought. I fixed mine without trying. Thanks for all you do defending the great USA. FYI, I live in GA too.
@@javojjaaf Thanks. FYI, my brakes are still great too. I don’t doubt the newer style master cylinder might be help as well. The brakes can be good though. Mine are now so it’s not just the design.
I have a 99' K1500 Suburban and the brakes never felt firm enough for my liking. The ABS is actually scary when it comes to a full stop so I pulled the fuse and disabled it. Later this year I plan to replace the master cylinder & ABS unit and convert the rear brakes to disc brakes. If anyone has rusty brake lines like mine had I suggest buying the stainless steel brake line kit from Dorman. I bought mine thru RockAuto for $100 and some change and all of the pre-bent pieces fit perfectly.
I don’t feel like adding this to a playlist, so I’m gonna like and subscribe to find it later when I decide to do this with my truck. Thank you for your service brother 🇺🇸
Nice truck. Definitely a keeper. I did this upgrade on my 98 Z71 and after several new boosters that couldn't develop enough pressure I got a complete hydroboost system from a pull it yourself yard. Hydro, master, 3 hoses and dual return PS pump for 125 bucks off a 99 suburban 2500. Monster brakes with very little pedal effort. Will never go back to vacuum assist. You have to get the master cylinder, mating diameters are different. Miss the newer reservoir. Fits stock brake lines.
You will need to blead the anti lock System you can find video of the process on RUclips and then blead the breaks starting with the far wheel first just watch the mc fluid level. Nice upgrade. Or find someone who has a snap on tech two to cycle the anti lock system. To blead air and then you will go through the windshield.
I have a ‘96 1/2 ton, and a ‘99 - the ‘99 is the new style truck and has a cylinder like the one you put in, the ‘96 has the same as what you had at the start. I didn’t realize they are swappable, the new style reservoir is easier to connect pressure bleeder to
Just finished installing new master cyclinder,wish I would've seen your video first.I would've upgraded to the newer style. Thanks for the info anyway.
Great video man I feel like I got every bit of information needed to feel confident enough to do it myself this weekend. My pedal goes all the way to the floor, from one day after another it just went out. I was braking really hard on first day of school from dropping off my brother at practice n I was pissed off wit all the traffic. So yeah I’m pretty sure I broke mines lol.
I have a 1995 Z-71 and as long as the rear brake shoes are adjusted properly and the ABS pump is working correctly you'll never have a spongy brake pedal. A little preventative maintenance goes a long way.
Ric H shoes are new and adjusted, but I do have an issue with the abs pump and was told it was expensive. Regardless, refreshing the master after all the years isn’t a bad thing and why not upgrade while your doing it? Win win
After your upgrade with your brake master cylinder I see your ABS light is on while you're out testing your brakes and mine is onto now I just seen in another video about that ABS system it's a hydraulic system you got for brake lines going into your ABS system I'm wondering if they don't need to be glad or if they're not even working I'm going to try to played mine and see if that makes my brakes any better good job on the upgrade to I think I'm going to do that myself
I have a '99 Suburban with spongy brakes. Replaced front and back brakes. Still spongy after bleeding it. What year brake master cylinder do you recommend I replace it with?
man i wish i could, but i live in japan. i haven't been home since making this video two years ago. one day i will. hopeful you can enjoy a few of the videos i make in the meantime.
Wow... You said $60.00 for the NM4074? I need to move to Ga. I paid $115.00 & it help my pedal a minimum of maybe 5-10% only... Nothing crazy like some of the other videos say. I bled, bled, & more bled... My pedal barely feel any different. My calipers and wheel cylinders are all original 23 years old never had a problem with them... Brake hoses was changed... I really don't see the hype in doing the swap NBS to OBS...
Got a 96 GMC Yukon I'm having the same issue with gunna have to try this. First I have heard of it, and I have head four Silverados Z71's Heavy Halfs all of them 4X4. Thanks for the idea.
Will this exact setup you have work on my 1996 C1500 2wd??? I hate the way my brake pedal feels I've replaced everything down to all brake lines and still hate my pedal feel... Its terrifying how far the pedal goes lol
Thanks, great video. Some questions... I have 98 GMC Sierra SLE Z71 115K original miles and want to increase HP keeping cost low. What upgrades do you recommend?
there isn't much you can do without spending some good coin to get good noticeable power out of one of these. my recommendation would be do an exhaust from front to back with as little restriction as possible. at least 2.5" pipes and straight through mufflers. get a nice intake, like a Volant like i have, and then get it tuned. mine went from having a whopping 177 wheel horsepower to 212 after those items and a good tune. its not much, but you will be happy.
You could also throw a cam in it but if it’s a vortec head truck you will have to do some head work to exceed anything over .450 lift mine has a .530 lift on both intake and exhaust with ported and polished vortec heads
Quick question- I recently did this mod to my 1994 K5 Blazer and the ABS light is stuck on after I bled the all the brake lines. Any suggestion why that might be?
My brake pedal feels just like you described before you upgraded the brake master cylinder. I have a 1996 Chevy 7.4L 3500 dually so do you know if the part # would be the same? Did you use any thread loc on the adapter or original fittings? Also I notice your battery guage is to the right side of 14. Mine is always to the left of center with a new altenator. Your engine sounds great! Thanks! Subscribed!
So it’s gonna be a different master part number for your truck I’m sure, your just gonna have to do a little research to see what works. As for the thread lock, none is needed. For the power, it’s probably fine, but it never hurts to put a fresh alternator on if yours is original.
@@javojjaaf I just watched the video again and just to be clear: You did not bleed the four wheels, after installing the MC as shown, is that correct? If I don't have to do that it will be much easier than having to crawl undeer the truck with dually's. Thanks!
@@Nonthanburi2 you will need to bleed them, I think I only did the front two and forgot to get it in the video. It’s much easier if you take the tire off.
Did you also bleed the anti lock unit to get your abs light off. The abs controller has a bleed valve on it that needs to be done also after a master cylinder replacement.
No I didn’t, but I’ll have to do that. The light had been on for a long time before this so maybe it’s something else, but definitely needs to be done.
Apologies, i dont remember the exact year. there is a year transition somewhere that went to rear drums and thats the one your looking for. if your truck is similar just use that part number in the video and you will be good.
@@javojjaaf I figured it out and did the upgrade, Its freeking amazing!!! I did a youtube video on my other channel. ruclips.net/video/-9tbmvSZTe4/видео.html
I recently came across your video and tried the same upgrade on my 99 chevy tahoe. Question I have did your break pedal stay at around 3/4 of the way down like you mentioned in the video? Did it improve when you bleed each caliper and drum? I did feel a difference in break pedal but mine also goes about 3/4 of the way down before it holds there. I also bleed each line. Thanks for the video
Great vid, my father's 99 c2500 burban has those spongy brakes too. BTW, around 17:18, I noticed you had a bouncy fuel gauge needle. Try this video, pretty in depth but he showed how to properly fix it. ruclips.net/video/2q1OVWBed3U/видео.html
I too install the mc then bleed it vs trying to shove a screwdriver in the bore while it's clamped in a vice. I don't get paid enough to work that hard. Just put a NBS mc in a 1994 suburban. So much nicer now.
Great video, I have the same truck, 1998 Z71.. Same brake problem. Will upgrade this week and come back with an update... God bless all you Chevy drivers...
@@chief9161 here's an update: it fits but should've used the proportioning valve from the NBS mc because the pedal is a little hard to push. I still see the owner driving it so it couldn't have turned out that bad. Much easier to pressure bleed that's for sure.
If you look back in my videos there is one that breaks it down. Basically headers, no cats, 2.5" piping, two magnapack resonators, two flowmaster 10's and an X pipe.
@ Tough Guy. I'm having that same issue and have replaced everything but the steel lines, even bout a good used abs pump and module and still have the brake issue. I got a 98 k1500 with 5.7, do I just order a 99 k1500 master cylinder then
i would absolutely try the newer master like i did if you haven't. its cheap and easy to do as you can see. make the swap and let me know how it does. we have a doubter in the comments we need to prove wrong. you have replaced the master with the same type that came on the truck and still have a weak peddle?
@@javojjaaf, yes. I've replaced everything new but the abs pump and steel lines. I still got the soft pedal with the upgrade but I still got to bleed a few things. But I did notice it's a lot stiffer
same year C/K3500 (non hydro boost) master cylinder has the same effect without that monstrous reservoir, but I think you need two adapters instead of just one iirc
@@javojjaaf when I bought my 97 Z71 with a third door, it came with the same wheels. Seeing how our trucks look nearly identical put a big smile on my face.
If you look back in my videos there is one that breaks it down. Basically headers, no cats, 2.5" piping, two magnapack resonators, two flowmaster 10's and an X pipe.
That's a nice truck good job bro one question without being too critical I just don't understand as long as you're pulling that master cylinder why not just replace that disastrous looking vacuum diaphragm behind it? I mean there's no better time right? Oh well good video😊 thanks
When I did this swap 4 years ago the booster was like three or four years old because I had to replace it. The replacement has no coating on it and it rusted up fast. Just something I don’t pay attention to, low on the list of priorities in life if you will. Believe it or not but I have not driven this truck since this video was made, I live overseas but I’ll be back to it in a couple years.
My 1996 GMC K2500, Suburban, 7.4Liter, 8600 GVW has the same problem. Mine has hydro boost. Does anyone know if I order a 2000 model year of my same truck with Hydroboost if I will get the improved MC? Also, since it has been a while now, Touge Guy, were you able to get a better bleed on the whole system and improve it more or has it remained as it was in this video? Thanks for showing all this!
I have the same setup in a C2500 and looking at this. Right now my hydroboost needs to be replaced as it is leaking. Our rigs have much bigger brakes than a half ton and LD 2500. I am looking at upgrades and this looks good as I hate the MC cover and rubber not sealing as well as a cap setup.
Anyone have problems with the adapter not fitting with the brake line? It fits great into the master cylinder but brake line is loose and leaking fluid.
I have not. I called AGS. They said I might need a flare tool. I don’t know why it leaks at the adapter. I’ve only seen one other person on RUclips with this problem doing this upgrade
Excellent Video, just wanted to add if this was not said in earlier comments. I would suggest bench bleeding the master cylinder. The reason for this is, if the master cylinder is not mounted level on the brake booster or this procedure of bleeding on the vehicle is done on an incline you can have a pocket of air that you will not be able to get out of the master cylinder. Hope this makes sense.
Did it today on my son's 1995 Chevy Suburban and it works awesome!!!! Didn't even bleed the breaks
nice!
Thanks!!!! I have a 1990 4x4 and have been battling this for years. Even went as far as taking off all the abs equipment, running old school hard lines directly to new master cylinder and using a manual proportioning valve. Better but still....with a horse trailer...stand on it and pray the electric brakes on the trailer will stop both. Bled them to death. Even gave up and took to dealer whose only comment was..."stops better than mine." (mechanic has same year truck). You should maybe change the heading on this to read 88 to 98 c/k 1500. Ran into this by accident. May help many more people. Thanks again!!!!
Anna McKinney let me know if it helps, would love to hear if that swap makes a change!
Something to know. I was thinking about putting the later MC on my 95 and had my ABS light on. I rebuilt my front end and while doing it decided to put new timken wheel bearings on. My bearings didn't feel loose at all but while in there you know. Well, to my surprise, not only did my ABS light go out but my brakes improved big time. I don't think it was due to the the ABS but rather that my wheel bearings were worn and underload defecting and basically knocking my brake pads back so they had to travel farther to engage. It's been well over a year now and a lot of miles and mine are still good. Just a thought. I fixed mine without trying. Thanks for all you do defending the great USA. FYI, I live in GA too.
RICKY BOYD thank you! I’ll definitely take a look into that.
@@javojjaaf Thanks. FYI, my brakes are still great too. I don’t doubt the newer style master cylinder might be help as well. The brakes can be good though. Mine are now so it’s not just the design.
Thank you for sharing. I got mine from Oreillys, its a MC for. 2004 Escalade. Replaced the abs with a used one. Brakes work great now!
I have a 99' K1500 Suburban and the brakes never felt firm enough for my liking. The ABS is actually scary when it comes to a full stop so I pulled the fuse and disabled it. Later this year I plan to replace the master cylinder & ABS unit and convert the rear brakes to disc brakes. If anyone has rusty brake lines like mine had I suggest buying the stainless steel brake line kit from Dorman. I bought mine thru RockAuto for $100 and some change and all of the pre-bent pieces fit perfectly.
I don’t feel like adding this to a playlist, so I’m gonna like and subscribe to find it later when I decide to do this with my truck. Thank you for your service brother 🇺🇸
Thanks! Hopefully its good help to you when you decide to do it.
Lol I got a this on my obs playlist
Nice truck. Definitely a keeper. I did this upgrade on my 98 Z71 and after several new boosters that couldn't develop enough pressure I got a complete hydroboost system from a pull it yourself yard. Hydro, master, 3 hoses and dual return PS pump for 125 bucks off a 99 suburban 2500. Monster brakes with very little pedal effort. Will never go back to vacuum assist. You have to get the master cylinder, mating diameters are different. Miss the newer reservoir. Fits stock brake lines.
Good job, I have a 94' Yukon, thinking of either this or the front disc brake kit. Love these body styles
Thank you. Good job. Good video. Great explaining. You have motivated me to do this on my ‘95. Buy the way, nice truck you’ve got there. Clean.
Brian W thanks!
I have a 95 too. How did it all go for you? Wat parts did you need ?
Excellent video and upgrade. Cant wait to this to my 95 Tahoe. Thank for your
service🇺🇲
Thank you! Good luck with your install, let us know how it goes!
You will need to blead the anti lock
System you can find video of the process on RUclips and then blead the breaks starting with the far wheel first just watch the mc fluid level.
Nice upgrade. Or find someone who has a snap on tech two to cycle the anti lock system. To blead air and then you will go through the windshield.
I have a ‘96 1/2 ton, and a ‘99 - the ‘99 is the new style truck and has a cylinder like the one you put in, the ‘96 has the same as what you had at the start. I didn’t realize they are swappable, the new style reservoir is easier to connect pressure bleeder to
Just finished installing new master cyclinder,wish I would've seen your video first.I would've upgraded to the newer style. Thanks for the info anyway.
Great video man I feel like I got every bit of information needed to feel confident enough to do it myself this weekend. My pedal goes all the way to the floor, from one day after another it just went out. I was braking really hard on first day of school from dropping off my brother at practice n I was pissed off wit all the traffic. So yeah I’m pretty sure I broke mines lol.
good luck!
Thank you for the step by step on this upgrade, i`ll be buying the parts needed for my 1998 1500 swb. I hate that spongy brake pedal feeling.
Good luck with the install!
Just finished the change over. Didn't take that long to take out and replace. Now need to take a road test .
I have a 1995 Z-71 and as long as the rear brake shoes are adjusted properly and the ABS pump is working correctly you'll never have a spongy brake pedal. A little preventative maintenance goes a long way.
Ric H shoes are new and adjusted, but I do have an issue with the abs pump and was told it was expensive. Regardless, refreshing the master after all the years isn’t a bad thing and why not upgrade while your doing it? Win win
Love the lights in the bumper.
Thanks! The LED flood lights are awesome at night!
I have a 96 with 306, thousand breaks are crap but I can't complain about much else 4l80e went to 260,00
Not complaining. Never knew of this
Upgrade
I have a 97 and when the heads cracked I had the dealership put a GM performance 383 in it since it was a direct fit.
How much did that cost and when was this?
@@fake-natty9643 $5,000 installed since it was a crate engine and that was about 10 years ago.
After your upgrade with your brake master cylinder I see your ABS light is on while you're out testing your brakes and mine is onto now I just seen in another video about that ABS system it's a hydraulic system you got for brake lines going into your ABS system I'm wondering if they don't need to be glad or if they're not even working I'm going to try to played mine and see if that makes my brakes any better good job on the upgrade to I think I'm going to do that myself
Awesome video! Need to do this on my 98 tahoe in the worst way (same situation, peddle almost to floor)
Super clean truck, man!
thanks! it needs some love and attention, and ill give it that when i get back from Japan in a few years.
@@javojjaaf Awesome! And also, Thank You for your service, man🇺🇲
@@eliforbes4842 appreciate that!
I have a '99 Suburban with spongy brakes. Replaced front and back brakes. Still spongy after bleeding it. What year brake master cylinder do you recommend I replace it with?
Thanks for the video, I've been wanting to upgrade my 97. I feel more confident about doing it myself now!
Good luck!
Any issues with the brass fitting leaking?
That master cylinder costed $106.00 from Auto Zone, haven't installed it yet, will give you a update...
We need more pickup videos!!
man i wish i could, but i live in japan. i haven't been home since making this video two years ago. one day i will. hopeful you can enjoy a few of the videos i make in the meantime.
Mine is the same way a lot of movement before the brakes engage been looking for a solution. Ty
Wow... You said $60.00 for the NM4074? I need to move to Ga. I paid $115.00 & it help my pedal a minimum of maybe 5-10% only... Nothing crazy like some of the other videos say. I bled, bled, & more bled... My pedal barely feel any different. My calipers and wheel cylinders are all original 23 years old never had a problem with them... Brake hoses was changed... I really don't see the hype in doing the swap NBS to OBS...
Can we get an update on how your brakes are doing now with this upgrade??
Great video my friend
i have been selling the master cylinder 1 a week thank you
o7 I have a 1998 gmc c1500 3rd door v8 ,pick it up new in 1998 and this have it. i also have low miles for my duties in the military.
Your truck looks almost identical to mine. Mine is a southern comfort though. Z71
I did my Truck And is Way better .Thanks
I JUST FINISHED IT WORKS GREAT. THANKS
Got a 96 GMC Yukon I'm having the same issue with gunna have to try this. First I have heard of it, and I have head four Silverados Z71's Heavy Halfs all of them 4X4. Thanks for the idea.
Go with a 2000 up ms as 99 was a change over year...but basically as long as the new one has a screw on cap not a press on it'll work
hand tighten the lines before you bolt it up. makes it much easier just saying
Solid time, thanks!
I just needed to change my master cylinder because my brakes were getting spongy
Now the brakes work like a new Z71 GMC
Will this exact setup you have work on my 1996 C1500 2wd??? I hate the way my brake pedal feels I've replaced everything down to all brake lines and still hate my pedal feel... Its terrifying how far the pedal goes lol
most likely it will, as long as you have rear drum brakes. but, there could always be some minor differences.
Thanks, great video. Some questions... I have 98 GMC Sierra SLE Z71 115K original miles and want to increase HP keeping cost low. What upgrades do you recommend?
there isn't much you can do without spending some good coin to get good noticeable power out of one of these. my recommendation would be do an exhaust from front to back with as little restriction as possible. at least 2.5" pipes and straight through mufflers. get a nice intake, like a Volant like i have, and then get it tuned. mine went from having a whopping 177 wheel horsepower to 212 after those items and a good tune. its not much, but you will be happy.
@@javojjaaf Thanks for the input
You could also throw a cam in it but if it’s a vortec head truck you will have to do some head work to exceed anything over .450 lift mine has a .530 lift on both intake and exhaust with ported and polished vortec heads
Nigerian Hustler this is true, but gets pricy and extensive as far as work.
Touge Guy the cam chop is so worth it though
Soooo. Would this work on a 89' suburban?
You must have removed the clear coat off of your rims?
As of 12/4/22 that same master cylinder is $117.99
So let me confirm this, all you have done is fitted a master cylinder for 99 plus on your 98. Is that correct?
A A basically that’s correct, but needs to be the matching truck 15/25/3500 part and possibly hydroboost in some cases.
@@javojjaaf thanks
Technically you need a 2000 up as 99 was a change over year
Quick question- I recently did this mod to my 1994 K5 Blazer and the ABS light is stuck on after I bled the all the brake lines. Any suggestion why that might be?
My brake pedal feels just like you described before you upgraded the brake master cylinder. I have a 1996 Chevy 7.4L 3500 dually so do you know if the part # would be the same?
Did you use any thread loc on the adapter or original fittings?
Also I notice your battery guage is to the right side of 14. Mine is always to the left of center with a new altenator. Your engine sounds great! Thanks! Subscribed!
So it’s gonna be a different master part number for your truck I’m sure, your just gonna have to do a little research to see what works. As for the thread lock, none is needed. For the power, it’s probably fine, but it never hurts to put a fresh alternator on if yours is original.
@@javojjaaf I just watched the video again and just to be clear: You did not bleed the four wheels, after installing the MC as shown, is that correct? If I don't have to do that it will be much easier than having to crawl undeer the truck with dually's. Thanks!
@@Nonthanburi2 you will need to bleed them, I think I only did the front two and forgot to get it in the video. It’s much easier if you take the tire off.
This actually made the truck stop better?
In my opinion yes, because you don’t have to stand on the peddle so hard to get the result your looking for.
Nice video, thanks!
Outstanding!
Thank you! It could be way better but we all have to start somewhere. Learning the way lol!
I forgot to Ask you ,My Truck is a 97 4X4 k1500 just like yours , The MC would fit on My Truck? Let Me know Thanks
Will this work on 89 k1500 scottsdale
What muffler are you running. Sounds good!!!
Did you also bleed the anti lock unit to get your abs light off. The abs controller has a bleed valve on it that needs to be done also after a master cylinder replacement.
No I didn’t, but I’ll have to do that. The light had been on for a long time before this so maybe it’s something else, but definitely needs to be done.
@@javojjaaf in that case you may have a bad wheel speed sensor. I had to replace one on my right front a couple of weeks ago. At least they are cheap.
Instructions were unclear, my blinker fluid overflowed and I have more horsepower now?
errrm....maybe i did something wrong?! it would be nice to have more HP!
i am in Australia and have a pretty well used 92 gmc c1500 5.7 2x4 auto.
can this cylinder be used with a non ABS brake 1992 GMC 2x4 5.7
My daughter and I have a 97 and a 98. The brakes suck. I’m thinking about trying this. You could tell a big difference? Worth changing it out?
Brian craneman 100% worth it for the cost and how easy it is
Ive got a 3500 and the brakes are very aggressive, a 3500 brake setup might be an upgrade for yours if you get the time.
@J Jones one vs....hell i dont know, hundreds maybe that have done this with good results. hate as you wish, we will enjoy our upgrade.
Nice truck..let me know if you ever decide to sell it!
not likely, but time will tell.
Great video. 💯👍🏼😊
Much appreciated! I hope to get better at making these.
So the new master cylinder is for what year and model of Chevy?
Apologies, i dont remember the exact year. there is a year transition somewhere that went to rear drums and thats the one your looking for. if your truck is similar just use that part number in the video and you will be good.
@@javojjaaf I figured it out and did the upgrade, Its freeking amazing!!! I did a youtube video on my other channel. ruclips.net/video/-9tbmvSZTe4/видео.html
I recently came across your video and tried the same upgrade on my 99 chevy tahoe. Question I have did your break pedal stay at around 3/4 of the way down like you mentioned in the video? Did it improve when you bleed each caliper and drum? I did feel a difference in break pedal but mine also goes about 3/4 of the way down before it holds there. I also bleed each line. Thanks for the video
it improved a little, but i also did new rear shoes and cylinders at the same time. that helps the travel.
Hey my man I bought the same part number from autozone but mine has a skinny piece of plastic sticking out the back are there more than one??
Maybe it’s just a plug that you need to pull out?
Dang, I have the same Wheels on my 95 white extended cab..lol
Since posting this video, how are your break now?
his beaks r broke
still working great!
We're did u get the line adapter
About the master cylinder I have a 93 Chevrolet Silverado which master cylinder would I need
Great vid, my father's 99 c2500 burban has those spongy brakes too.
BTW, around 17:18, I noticed you had a bouncy fuel gauge needle.
Try this video, pretty in depth but he showed how to properly fix it.
ruclips.net/video/2q1OVWBed3U/видео.html
Yooo, thanks for the link! Ill defiantly be trying to fix this the next time im in the states!
I did it n it work
This truck bodies here are hard to come by these days especially when they're in good shape and they want crazy money
I too install the mc then bleed it vs trying to shove a screwdriver in the bore while it's clamped in a vice. I don't get paid enough to work that hard. Just put a NBS mc in a 1994 suburban. So much nicer now.
Great video, I have the same truck, 1998 Z71..
Same brake problem.
Will upgrade this week and come back with an update...
God bless all you Chevy drivers...
@@chief9161 here's an update: it fits but should've used the proportioning valve from the NBS mc because the pedal is a little hard to push. I still see the owner driving it so it couldn't have turned out that bad. Much easier to pressure bleed that's for sure.
I noticed some videos use the NM4073 and others use NM4074!
Any difference that you know of?
Nice rig
Wish I saw this earlier
Great video! Just curious what mufflers are you running? Sounds Great!
If you look back in my videos there is one that breaks it down. Basically headers, no cats, 2.5" piping, two magnapack resonators, two flowmaster 10's and an X pipe.
@@javojjaaf would this work on a 1994 GMC Z71
Appreciate it.
@ Tough Guy. I'm having that same issue and have replaced everything but the steel lines, even bout a good used abs pump and module and still have the brake issue. I got a 98 k1500 with 5.7, do I just order a 99 k1500 master cylinder then
i would absolutely try the newer master like i did if you haven't. its cheap and easy to do as you can see. make the swap and let me know how it does. we have a doubter in the comments we need to prove wrong. you have replaced the master with the same type that came on the truck and still have a weak peddle?
@@javojjaaf, yes. I've replaced everything new but the abs pump and steel lines. I still got the soft pedal with the upgrade but I still got to bleed a few things. But I did notice it's a lot stiffer
Some 99's are not an upgrade go with 2000 or newer
same year C/K3500 (non hydro boost) master cylinder has the same effect without that monstrous reservoir, but I think you need two adapters instead of just one iirc
Wonder if I can put a knew brake master on my 99 Tahoe. What is best knew year to put 🤔07
If I have hydroboost system will it still work
Are those chrome American Racing wheels you have on your truck?
Yes they were, now I have Mickey Thompson’s classic 3’s
@@javojjaaf when I bought my 97 Z71 with a third door, it came with the same wheels.
Seeing how our trucks look nearly identical put a big smile on my face.
Did anyone run into the problem of the flair on the current line is larger than the flair inside the BLF-26C adapter and won't seal?
Will this set up work on a 1997 silverado 1500 2WD?
most likely yes, but be sure you buy one specifically for a 2wd when you do.
Good video, what exhaust setup are you running? Sounds really good
If you look back in my videos there is one that breaks it down. Basically headers, no cats, 2.5" piping, two magnapack resonators, two flowmaster 10's and an X pipe.
Do you have the brake master cylinder link so I could get one for my 91 Chevy 2500 truck
Just take the part number and plug it into autozone.com and it will come up for ya.
It’s been a year, how is the brakes now?
everything is doing well. still feels great!
That's a nice truck good job bro one question without being too critical
I just don't understand as long as you're pulling that master cylinder why not just replace that disastrous looking vacuum diaphragm behind it?
I mean there's no better time right?
Oh well good video😊 thanks
When I did this swap 4 years ago the booster was like three or four years old because I had to replace it. The replacement has no coating on it and it rusted up fast. Just something I don’t pay attention to, low on the list of priorities in life if you will. Believe it or not but I have not driven this truck since this video was made, I live overseas but I’ll be back to it in a couple years.
@@javojjaaf understood 😊
Gonna do this tomorrow!
Mando good luck!
Thanks for the video. I’ll be changing mine out this weekend
My 1996 GMC K2500, Suburban, 7.4Liter, 8600 GVW has the same problem. Mine has hydro boost. Does anyone know if I order a 2000 model year of my same truck with Hydroboost if I will get the improved MC?
Also, since it has been a while now, Touge Guy, were you able to get a better bleed on the whole system and improve it more or has it remained as it was in this video? Thanks for showing all this!
I have the same setup in a C2500 and looking at this. Right now my hydroboost needs to be replaced as it is leaking. Our rigs have much bigger brakes than a half ton and LD 2500. I am looking at upgrades and this looks good as I hate the MC cover and rubber not sealing as well as a cap setup.
how much of a raise on your hood? 2" or 4"? thanks.
If I remember correctly it’s a 2”, but it’s been on there for like 13 years
Will this swap also work on 1990 c1500?
I believe it will, but cant promise that. Do a few google searches and you should find the info you need.
tkx do I need two duel master cylinder adapters #BLF-26C-
Also didn’t view were the adapter went
only need one
any difference in disk/drum brake wear?
Touge guy will this work on my 97 2 door tahoe? brakes suck
Most likely yes, just make sure you get the same part number master cylinder as mine if you have rear drums. I believe you do.
Anyone have problems with the adapter not fitting with the brake line? It fits great into the master cylinder but brake line is loose and leaking fluid.
Do you by chance have read disk brakes? Something larger than a 1500?
@@javojjaaf I have rear drum brakes and front disk brakes. No, my truck is a k1500
@@scottaduddell4061 ok good. Have you tried any Teflon tape on the threads?
I have not. I called AGS. They said I might need a flare tool. I don’t know why it leaks at the adapter. I’ve only seen one other person on RUclips with this problem doing this upgrade
The brake line is loose/has play where it inserts into the adapter
my 92 has great brakes not soft at all
Thats good to hear, at that age it may be a good idea to at least do a flush and master cylinder replacement even if you don't do the upgrade.
@@javojjaaf i put ss lines on it an redid the brakes while i was at it...lines were not safe ...but i am in ohio lol
Would it work for my 2wd
It will, just do a little research and see what master cylinder is best for your set up.
Why the booster super rusted
Its a parts store replacement so it probably didnt have a good coating on it.
Where did you buy it
got it all from autozone
Am running 3/4 ton master cylinder