Really appreciate this video man. Some great advice in here. I picked up an NC Miata in Copper Red Mica last month that is a little beat up. Seatbelts don't retract, missing side skirts, some chassis damage. I'm working on it right now and fixing her up, but I just love driving it. Lots of fun!
Best info on the NC for sensible upgrades for street and track. Bought a 2011 PRHT back in June... I like manual but ended up with AT also and I like the paddles and sequential shifter. Did all your performance upgrades except I got Bilstein B16 coilovers along with the White Line sways...drives flat like a go-kart. Now I just need a roll bar. Great video! 👍
Thank you for that quality information 👍. I live in SA and just drove down to Port Lavaca and bought a 2006 MX-5 with 105k on it for 6400 before tax. The previous owner had their engine blow, and they took it to dynotronics and got the 2.5 swap done. Right now I'm having the brakes done, and am having them check the transmission fluid just in case. Immediately had an oil change and new tires just so I could make it back to SA in one piece. Aside from cosmetic upgrades, the first mods on my list are sway bars ( I hear the RX-8 ones are good ), and then the Meister CRD coilovers or the Meister sport, mainly to improve handling, but also the ride quality. I think these stock ones are just about toast... After that will look into improving power, and possibly eventually putting in a supercharger. If you ever want to do some spirited driving in the hills of Austin or SA, hit me up
Nice description of NC. While the NC may not be the best looking MX-5, it has a very good suspension setup with a five-link rear, a chassis that has less weight transfer than an NA or NB, and the excellent MZR 2.0. I'll add that a popular and inexpensive upgrade to the NC is the factory RX-8 ARBs if you're running stock springs.
@@TheFracturedfuture I agree, I think it strikes a good balance between looking aggressive, beefy, but still fun and sleek. I kinda like the NC1 because it looks less like all the other mazda's.
I have a 2007 PRHT auto trans. I went a little different way. I agree one of the first things is the coolant tank. mine had 75000 miles on it so I bought a oem replacement. I replaced the swaybars F&R. I replaced the shocks with Koni yellow shock keeping the stock springs, which made a good improvement. I replaced the muffler with a Goodwin single outlet. I did two track days at Harris Hill and decided I needed 200 tread ware rated tires before my next track day. For a street car it is fabulous to drive. On track days it's not a competition and this got it to the point that it is not in the way. I live in Taylor TX
for those with a manual nc1 the pennzoil manual trans fluid works really well ur just gonna need to buy 3 bottles and you only need about a quarter of the 3rd bottle
Hey man, glad to see another NC guy in Texas. I was a little curious about a few things you mentioned which related to some things I've noticed in my car. One is the seatbelts - it seems like the only real fix to slow retraction is buying new ones. How much did Mazda charge for those? The next thing is the AC: it seems like in Texas heat when I park in direct sun the AC pretty much gives up and barely does anything. Have you experienced weak AC? I tried recharging it but otherwise I get the feeling there may be no OEM solution other than parking in the shade. Last thing I have is a tip for you: you may want to switch the shock absorbers out sometime soon. I think goodwin carries a set for about 600 bucks which are "stock-like", but they carry a lifetime warranty. You could switch springs or keep the OEM ones, but the reason for replacing the OEM shocks is they're known to fail pretty often and they're supposedly a weak point of the suspension. Goodwin says they've seen the shocks fail at 30k miles, and a little while ago I had to replace two of mine which was quite expensive as I didn't have time to do it myself.
I think the price for seatbelts is probably a bit variable-I just compared prices across dealer websites and bought the cheapest ones. As for AC, replacing the compressor and radiator fan did the trick for me. It worked great even at the peak of summer. Nice recommendation on the shocks!
I like reading the comments here, I have a 2008 GT edition with the PRHT that I take up my local mountain roads every Saturday morning. I noticed that with the LSD the rear never breaks but there is noticeable understeer. I’m running coil overs with 17x9 wheels, tires are 245 40 all season. The mechanical grip on this car is substantial but I’m wondering if a thicker front anti sway bar might fix my understeer issue?
Could be tires, could be too much steering input. You could try just removing the rear sway bar or upgrading to adjustable sway bars and see what you like. I’ve typically always heard tighter front end and looser rear on Miata’s.
Bought a 2006 nc 1.8l for my first car about 6 months ago with 120k miles on clock. rod bearings gone so im considering 2.5l swapping this and turning it into a track car. after researching i realise id have to do an ecu, wiring harness and fuel injector swap aswell, along with other obvious expenses. was just wondering your view on doing this vs buying a better car later as a track car?
That’s just my opinion on it. I’d rather pay for reasonably low mileage and keep functioning stock suspension to keep cost low and less labor compared to buying high mileage and needing all new suspension components, etc. That being said, the drivetrain on NCs is quite reliable at high mileage. You do you.
@@grahamschannel hi, how is your transmission fluid holding up in your automatic transmission during track sessions? No overheating? How does the fluid look if you drained it recently?thanks in advance
Nice video. I’m on my second Miata, had a 97 manual Miata many years ago and then went for an automatic 2009 PRHT that was low mileage. Don’t do tracks and just want to cruise and some spirited driving. I have found that I like using the manual shifter than the paddle ones. So far loving it. What did you do suspension wise? Can you share some thoughts there?
Only sway bars. Hot take: I don’t think any suspension changes are worth the money for you if you aren’t going to track it, and cheap suspension changes will just make for a poor ride quality.
Really appreciate this video man. Some great advice in here. I picked up an NC Miata in Copper Red Mica last month that is a little beat up. Seatbelts don't retract, missing side skirts, some chassis damage. I'm working on it right now and fixing her up, but I just love driving it. Lots of fun!
Best info on the NC for sensible upgrades for street and track.
Bought a 2011 PRHT back in June...
I like manual but ended up with AT also and I like the paddles and sequential shifter.
Did all your performance upgrades except I got Bilstein B16 coilovers along with the White Line sways...drives flat like a go-kart.
Now I just need a roll bar.
Great video! 👍
Good summary of what to do to immediately improve the Miata. In line with your analysis. Thanks
I have one of the first NCs, 2.0 6 speed. I love it! it`s so much fun! that`s all you need to know about an mx5 before buying one! just do it! :D
Thank you for that quality information 👍. I live in SA and just drove down to Port Lavaca and bought a 2006 MX-5 with 105k on it for 6400 before tax. The previous owner had their engine blow, and they took it to dynotronics and got the 2.5 swap done.
Right now I'm having the brakes done, and am having them check the transmission fluid just in case.
Immediately had an oil change and new tires just so I could make it back to SA in one piece.
Aside from cosmetic upgrades, the first mods on my list are sway bars ( I hear the RX-8 ones are good ), and then the Meister CRD coilovers or the Meister sport, mainly to improve handling, but also the ride quality. I think these stock ones are just about toast...
After that will look into improving power, and possibly eventually putting in a supercharger.
If you ever want to do some spirited driving in the hills of Austin or SA, hit me up
Nice description of NC. While the NC may not be the best looking MX-5, it has a very good suspension setup with a five-link rear, a chassis that has less weight transfer than an NA or NB, and the excellent MZR 2.0. I'll add that a popular and inexpensive upgrade to the NC is the factory RX-8 ARBs if you're running stock springs.
The NC is the best looking IMO, the other ones look too small and wimpy.
@@TheFracturedfuture I agree, I think it strikes a good balance between looking aggressive, beefy, but still fun and sleek. I kinda like the NC1 because it looks less like all the other mazda's.
I have a 2007 PRHT auto trans. I went a little different way. I agree one of the first things is the coolant tank. mine had 75000 miles on it so I bought a oem replacement. I replaced the swaybars F&R. I replaced the shocks with Koni yellow shock keeping the stock springs, which made a good improvement. I replaced the muffler with a Goodwin single outlet. I did two track days at Harris Hill and decided I needed 200 tread ware rated tires before my next track day. For a street car it is fabulous to drive. On track days it's not a competition and this got it to the point that it is not in the way. I live in Taylor TX
get rid of those stock springs and get some good sport lowering springs like H&R. Night and Day difference.
for those with a manual nc1 the pennzoil manual trans fluid works really well ur just gonna need to buy 3 bottles and you only need about a quarter of the 3rd bottle
Hey man, glad to see another NC guy in Texas. I was a little curious about a few things you mentioned which related to some things I've noticed in my car.
One is the seatbelts - it seems like the only real fix to slow retraction is buying new ones. How much did Mazda charge for those?
The next thing is the AC: it seems like in Texas heat when I park in direct sun the AC pretty much gives up and barely does anything. Have you experienced weak AC? I tried recharging it but otherwise I get the feeling there may be no OEM solution other than parking in the shade.
Last thing I have is a tip for you: you may want to switch the shock absorbers out sometime soon. I think goodwin carries a set for about 600 bucks which are "stock-like", but they carry a lifetime warranty. You could switch springs or keep the OEM ones, but the reason for replacing the OEM shocks is they're known to fail pretty often and they're supposedly a weak point of the suspension. Goodwin says they've seen the shocks fail at 30k miles, and a little while ago I had to replace two of mine which was quite expensive as I didn't have time to do it myself.
I think the price for seatbelts is probably a bit variable-I just compared prices across dealer websites and bought the cheapest ones.
As for AC, replacing the compressor and radiator fan did the trick for me. It worked great even at the peak of summer.
Nice recommendation on the shocks!
Great video. Please also record some videos doing maintanence :)
I like reading the comments here, I have a 2008 GT edition with the PRHT that I take up my local mountain roads every Saturday morning. I noticed that with the LSD the rear never breaks but there is noticeable understeer. I’m running coil overs with 17x9 wheels, tires are 245 40 all season. The mechanical grip on this car is substantial but I’m wondering if a thicker front anti sway bar might fix my understeer issue?
Could be tires, could be too much steering input. You could try just removing the rear sway bar or upgrading to adjustable sway bars and see what you like. I’ve typically always heard tighter front end and looser rear on Miata’s.
Bought a 2006 nc 1.8l for my first car about 6 months ago with 120k miles on clock. rod bearings gone so im considering 2.5l swapping this and turning it into a track car. after researching i realise id have to do an ecu, wiring harness and fuel injector swap aswell, along with other obvious expenses. was just wondering your view on doing this vs buying a better car later as a track car?
awesome vid; great info
Wouldn't go over six figures on mileage? 100k miles vs 190k is very different.
That’s just my opinion on it. I’d rather pay for reasonably low mileage and keep functioning stock suspension to keep cost low and less labor compared to buying high mileage and needing all new suspension components, etc. That being said, the drivetrain on NCs is quite reliable at high mileage. You do you.
Running cool on an older NC - thermostat sticking open is common problem on these - where does your temp gauge sit?
Warmed up, it sits right in the middle of the gauge.
@@grahamschannel then it's fine 👍
@@grahamschannel hi, how is your transmission fluid holding up in your automatic transmission during track sessions? No overheating? How does the fluid look if you drained it recently?thanks in advance
Nice video. I’m on my second Miata, had a 97 manual Miata many years ago and then went for an automatic 2009 PRHT that was low mileage. Don’t do tracks and just want to cruise and some spirited driving. I have found that I like using the manual shifter than the paddle ones. So far loving it. What did you do suspension wise? Can you share some thoughts there?
Only sway bars. Hot take: I don’t think any suspension changes are worth the money for you if you aren’t going to track it, and cheap suspension changes will just make for a poor ride quality.
Great info man.
What wheels are those? I like their classic styling…
Is that an h2r sticker?
Did the safety techs not give you grief about your Harddog roll bar? I've heard it does not meet NASA or SCCA requirements for rollover protection
I think you heard wrong.