Why not box the rear of the frame? That frame will bend again where the reenforced area meets the weak C channel. Box the frame then add a solid mounted crossmember from side to side
I’m new to fabricating on my Jeep and have certainly made a few mistakes. I like that you show the mistakes that you make and revisions to your plans. It gives newbies like myself confidence to keep trying to figure stuff out on our builds. Keep up the great content!
I wouldn't call the shock mounts a mistake. Now your limit straps are retaining 100% of the travel whereas the way you intended the shock would have a potential of bearing weight. Congrats you just doubled the life of your shocks. I call that a win. Keep up the good work Kelly.
Instead of the limit straps did you think about some type of coil retainer for the top of the coil spring? Could have saved $100 by making it out of steel you probably already had.
I decided not to do that, it would pull the spring apart putting a lot of strain on whatever retainer I built. Not much but it would. Limit strap is the proper way to do it, and it will save my shock.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 How would it put any strain on the mount? Your coil is free floating on the bottom. On my buggy I purposely solid mounted the top of the coil and used the same style free float like yours. Except I designed it so the spring is under tension at full droop. Not much but a little.
You are correct, my brain is fried from a long sleepless weekend.. I still don’t like the idea of coils being loose on either side. But I have seen it done before.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 In my case the top is attached and the bottom is free floating on a 1.75" tube with a bumpstop/retainer so it stretches the spring a bit at full droop under flex. About 3" of travel before the retainer. The spring can not come off accidentally. This is set up for slow crawling.
That looks solid back there now.I wonder if some of the driving issues where not from the rear axle shifting side to side? If the track bar isn't level at ride height it should be pushing the rearend side to side more when ever you hit bunps or lean going around curves.
Thanks, it absolutely would be better if it was more level. I Raised the axle side 2” and lowered the frame side 2” in the last video. I would have to lower the truck to get the angles more level or run like a 10” long bracket on both sides which I don’t want to do.
Good upgrade on version 2 Kelly. I like it even better.
Thanks 👊🏻
Why not box the rear of the frame? That frame will bend again where the reenforced area meets the weak C channel. Box the frame then add a solid mounted crossmember from side to side
I’m new to fabricating on my Jeep and have certainly made a few mistakes. I like that you show the mistakes that you make and revisions to your plans. It gives newbies like myself confidence to keep trying to figure stuff out on our builds. Keep up the great content!
Thanks, we are all learning together🤣
5:50 Your mistake made the situation better tho! More money more time but now its done right! Well done sir
Haha, true.
I wouldn't call the shock mounts a mistake. Now your limit straps are retaining 100% of the travel whereas the way you intended the shock would have a potential of bearing weight. Congrats you just doubled the life of your shocks. I call that a win. Keep up the good work Kelly.
Thanks👊🏻
Super 😅
Isn't this ideal because the shock is no longer the limiting factor?
Correct, the limit strap will also keep wear down on the shock itself. It is the proper way to do things
I got a 2002 chevy blazer zr2 with 2 inch lift shackles and 33s just wondering what shocks you would recommend
I did coil retainer bolts when I did this same thing. At least this way you can keep the shock from over extending
Love it!! I had to do everything without a welder so cool!!
I don’t know, at this point you should have done a rear chasis swap and lose the c channel.
great work.
Thanks 👊🏻
Im amazed that old shock mount had enough force to crack the frame that quickly.
Yea, me too. But it is much stronger now. Time to go test it out.
Instead of the limit straps did you think about some type of coil retainer for the top of the coil spring? Could have saved $100 by making it out of steel you probably already had.
I decided not to do that, it would pull the spring apart putting a lot of strain on whatever retainer I built. Not much but it would. Limit strap is the proper way to do it, and it will save my shock.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 How would it put any strain on the mount? Your coil is free floating on the bottom. On my buggy I purposely solid mounted the top of the coil and used the same style free float like yours. Except I designed it so the spring is under tension at full droop. Not much but a little.
You are correct, my brain is fried from a long sleepless weekend.. I still don’t like the idea of coils being loose on either side. But I have seen it done before.
@@MuddyBeards4X4 In my case the top is attached and the bottom is free floating on a 1.75" tube with a bumpstop/retainer so it stretches the spring a bit at full droop under flex. About 3" of travel before the retainer. The spring can not come off accidentally. This is set up for slow crawling.
Awesome! Love the shocks mounts! Hope now you finish your trips without breaking more stuff!
😂 me too, I was out this weekend and did some real wheeling and rock crawling with no issues so far👊🏻
@@MuddyBeards4X4 new video?
Super 😅
That looks solid back there now.I wonder if some of the driving issues where not from the rear axle shifting side to side? If the track bar isn't level at ride height it should be pushing the rearend side to side more when ever you hit bunps or lean going around curves.
Thanks, it absolutely would be better if it was more level. I Raised the axle side 2” and lowered the frame side 2” in the last video. I would have to lower the truck to get the angles more level or run like a 10” long bracket on both sides which I don’t want to do.
Hair looks good! Where do you get it cut at?
😆😆😆
I love this build!!
Thanks 👊🏻