It's so refreshing to hear someone talk about function and practicality. If you would like to see guys racing about how cool their monster rig is, and how out looks like it could win at KotH, Ican link you to a couple of thousand videos.
Lower center of mass also results in less weight transfer on hills and off camber trails. Less weight transfer means tires are more evenly loaded which provides better traction and stability. Remove doors, hard top, and spare tire to further lower CG for trail runs. Keep tools and recovery gear behind seats on the floor. Find a new home for your hi-lift jack. Roof top tents are definitely out of the question. 2015 JK Rubicon 2dr. 1.5” TF leveling kit, 1” added bump stop front and rear, ½” trim on front fender flairs (only needed on full turn & full stuff disconnected), Bilstein 5100 shocks, 1” wheel spacers front, 1.25” on rear. I run this with 35 x10.5R17 on factory wheels disconnected, with no steering stop washers. Some of the guys I run with have referred to my jeep as “Pretty much stock” and that makes me smile.
Neil, You’re on the money with the LCG concept. I’ve resisted the urge to move up to 40”s on my JLU and have learned that my setup on 37”s with a 3-1/2” lift is the perfect place to be - especially since you put the PSC steering on her for me. I just made my third trip out to Colorado & Utah, driving out and back (trailers are for wussies) and doing every noteworthy trail we could find. Let me tell you - if my jeep couldn’t handle the 3,500 mile drive out and back in comfort and control I would never have done it a second and third time. I know of multitudes of Jeeps that no-one would make that journey in . My current setup feels very confident on the highway, and does everything I ask off-road. I am where I want to be. PEACE
JP Mag once fit 35s on a TJ without any suspension lift. They only lifted the body 1", which gave them space for high-clearance t-case/fueltank skidplates, a 1" MML, and taller shocktowers. The bodymounts were also upgraded to polyurethane from the stock rubber. They also "clearanced" fenders, installed adjustable control-arms to extend the wheelbase slightly, and used a SYE. This approach netted them about 2.5" of added clearance under the diffs, vs stock 30" tires...with 3.5" more clearance under the oilpan, and WAY more clearance under the t-case and fueltank...while retaining a low COG, fairly-low overall height to fit under overhangs, and a stock ride. Approach, departure, and breakover angles were improved better than installing a 2" suspension lift and 32s, with 1.5" more clearance under the diffs vs the 32s, and considerably better breakover than if a t-case drop was used with that 2" suspension lift and 32s. The RTI of the Jeep improved vs stock as well, and such mods would also likely be very complementary to any decent possible future suspension lift, whether minimal or tall.
Low and stable is definitely the way to go. My YJ is around 3 1/2 higher than factory and is on a 40" tire. My suspension is comprised of long arms front and rear with 16" travel shocks. I have about 3" of up travel so it is certainly not built for high speed bumps. It does handle the low speed rocks like a champ though. The other necessary factor to make an LCG rig like this work is a wheelbase stretch. I have about 12" of wheelbase stretch.
For a 2dr Wrangler... 35s x 10.5 skinnies, 1.5" lift, and 2" hubcentric spacers. Low, lightweight rotation, wide, and stable. With the added ability to shred thru mud/forest terrain better than a 12.5 tire.
Good day Neil & everyone. I don’t own a Jeep but a long wheel base Suzuki Sierra here in Australia. I run 235x85x16 with standard height springs, 1/2 inch blocks between bump stops & chassis. I’ve also done a virtual lift by cutting 1 inch of the wheel arches. It sure is the way to go no matter what 4x4 we own. Much better on & off road & dosnt attract unwanted attention if you know what I mean. Over all it’s 3 inches higher than standard due to my tires. I’m still working on a decent light weight skid plate for the belly & undecided on which lockers. Thanks for alway putting out great content & keep up the great work. Remember one & all, low & slows the go.
Two jeeps 2020 jeep it with 4.25" inch lift and 37, drives awesome. 2019 rubi with 2.5" lift and 35. The only reason I went so big on the jt was to overcome break over angle for the l...o....n ...g wheelbase.
I did a 4 inch long arm lift on my XJ. I had to cut the fenders and put big fiberglass fender flares on it. Went with 35 inch tires and 4.56 gears. I'm digging it so far! It is shorter than a stock RAM pick up and handles like a dream. its 1 ton crossover steering really makes it handle like a dream.
had a lifted 08 tacoma 6"lift on 37"... wobbly AF ... new build .. 2020 Ram 2500 6.4 hemi single cab long bed tradesman with an aluminum flatbed on 35's (its the lightest 2500 you can configure) with a pop top truck camper (specifically being lighter and LCG compared to a hardside), currently but planning on 37's stuffed through combo of minimal leveling kit,, careful rim offset choice / sumo springs to support the camper better.... also added aluminum storage boxes under the flatbed to lower the CG even more by storing as much heavy gear and fluids as low as possible.
primary use will be Rougher Forest Service / BLM roads that the average Subaru would have some trouble with. acting as a basecamp for 1-2 week long high power off road e-moto adventures. not Rock Crawling or Mudding or Running BAHA. Minimal lift during suspension mods. mods should support overall drivability and goals for the vehicle only!
I've kept my Jeeps on stock springs until the springs broke, sagged, or hindered articulation. The stock springs usually weren't the limiting factor offroad, even on my CJs or YJ. With the coil-sprung Jeeps, the springs aren't the limiting factor when towing/hauling either, as they can easily/affordably be supplemented with in-coil airbags to avoid sag/squat. The brakes, cooling, wheelbase, GAWR and GVWR are often the issues.
Like many people, my TJ is an ever evolving build but I think regardless of whether you go for LCG or HCG or something in between, adjustable control arms a must if you want any kind of performance and comfort for your rig.
I love my JKU not being too jacked up. Just a 2.5" lift and some 35X11.50 MT's is my choice. Also 4.88 gears, they work so great with the 4:1 transfer case and my 6 speed manual.
This video reminds of the old days, when a 10-15 Gates Commando was considered to be "big off road rubber" and my dad and uncles, like everybody else who wanted to run those "floatation tires" on first-gen Broncos, cut the wheel-well opening to make them fit. Had lift kits been available back then, they would not have been interested.
This video really grabbed my attention. Years ago I bought a TJ with a 4" short arm lift running 33s. My driving is about 85% on road, 15% off road. My TJ has always felt like it's on stilts. The body roll in everyday driving is spooky, and while it has never "misbehaved" on or off road, it isn't confidence inspiring. It came with a full set of skid plates and there isn't a single scuff on any of them. I've never really had any clearance issues when off-roading - in fact I've scraped a slider only once in the last 6-7 years. I've been thinking about a long-arm swap with less lift and high clearance fenders, and based on this video that seems like a smart move. I'm also thinking about going with bigger diameter wheels so I can upgrade the "wish" brakes on my jeep. (Wish brakes - you step on the pedal and wish you had better brakes.) Any recommendations?
Yes, we pretty much always recommend upgrading to long arms. As for the bigger wheels, there isn't many options for 17in wheels for TJs so I would recommend using wheel adapters so you can use a 5x5 bolt pattern wheel, like what you would find on a JK.
I had figured on "upgrading" the bolt pattern on my TJ - a buddy of mine has already offered me a set of 17s in the 5 on 5 pattern, so how can I say no? Any idea how much lift I'll need with high clearance fenders?
My Powerwagon has 1 inch of lift over stock and rides on 40 inch tires. I removed wheel well instead of lifting higher and it has great off-road and on road performance.
How's the suspension droop? I'd like to get some ORI struts and put them on my MJ, I have a vision for it, and it's low cog, interior and exterior roll cage, dovetailed on the back and maybe the front if I can manage it and cut the body up a bit. I also have an XJ, but I'm hesitant to build it as I don't really like uni body builds too much and to sit it on a frame would be tough.
I have a 2021 JLU that from the original purchase was always going to be a low center of gravity lift. Many people told me it couldnt be done and was stupid for even thinking of it. Currently its sitting on 37's with a 2.5 inch rock crawler springs, 4 to 5 inch lift fox shocks for added droop. Factory fenders and body panel have been removed and new felders have been bolted to the roll bar directly in the engine bay giving me 8 inches of up travel. The jeep also has core 4x4 tier 4 mid arms and no front sway bar for the last 2 years. Handles beautiful on-road and off-road from parks like windrock to AOP. It will be going to 40's soon enough and i will still have 6.5 to 7 inches of uptravel as the my current custom fenders sit above the hood line.
I daily a 2014 jk with a 2.5 aev lift , 35’s for tire and high clearance flares. Nothing huge. But perfect for me. I don’t need a big lift. I drive a Jeep I’m already cool. 😂. Loved the video. Thank you 🙏🏼
I’m running 39 inch KM3s (so, 38s lol) on a JT rubicon with a 2.5 inch Clayton lift, 17x8.5 0mm wheels, fenders haven’t been chopped yet, and they fit exceptionally. No rubbing left to right, does scrub plastic when I stuff them, but the fender chop will fix that. Need to upgrade a few skids, but other than that it works great.
I have a 17 JKU. I started with 35’s and a 3.5” Metalcloak lift which did great. As I went to 37’s and loaded it down with bodies and gear, the springs compressed way past expectation, Giving me little up travel. I then decided to go with 4.5” springs and lighten the load a bit. This combo seems to work well for me as all the added weight from bumpers, larger spares, and gear - almost bottomed me out on the trail. Lastly, I recently went to tons and 40’s on the same 4.5” metalcloak springs and feel I’m at a good height compromise For suspension height and tire size in mind. All this said, I do think it’s worth mentioning that when I compared mine and my brothers MC lifts vs Rock Krawler lifts several friends have, the 2.5” RC lifts settle higher than the 3.5” MC lifts and similarly with 3.5” RC lifts being just as high as a 4.5” MC lift. So while I do have a 4.5” lift, I wonder if the MC lifts of this height are more like a 3.5” lift with other manufacturers. I’m not complaining- just an observation. I’m very happy with my MC lift…and their customer service is awesome.
Consider installing supplemental in-coil airbags to avoid sag/squat, especially when hauling towing. They can also help offroad articulation, if you connect left and right via T-fittings. Airbags are only about $100/pr.
I got a 2 1/2 lift with 33s and I'm pretty satisfied with it, now I just want to get adjustable control arms, and track bars and anything else that can make my alignment better and whatever else that'll help my performance off-road
When I first got my jeep I went to Hot Springs OHV park and the guy there told me put the biggest tires that will fit with the lowest amount of lift necessary. Keep the COG low as possible.
I’m not in a Jeep but I’ve upgraded my Kawasaki KRX from a 31” (measured 30.25”) to a true to size 33”. I have left the suspension alone and love how planted the rig still feels yet having decent size tires for SXS. After these are worn out I may even for to a 35”, which is maximum size without doing a lift. However, may need clutch work then.
I like the lcg idea. I built a cj5 back in the 1970s and wanted big tires, but wanted the center of gravity low. I ran 31 Armstrong true trac tires, which were big at the time. Soon tires became larger and lift kits appeared. My jeep did very well in the day. A bunch of leaf springs, Monroe shocks, 410 gears, chevy small block, t10 trans, dana 18. I now bought a 1984 cj7 and plan to build it for on off road again. Im looking for suggestions on what might work. Im old and have old school tendencies.
I have a 2024 392 just this way I added 37" Nittis Trails 1" bump rear was not happy with the flex so I added 1" levelers on all 4 2" shock drops and added 2.5 mopar lower control arms for fix the Geometry also added all Steersmarts steering with fox ats2.0 I jut picked up DV8 front bump and Metalcloak rear bump to help the harsh hits I also added metal cloak rear muffler skid diff skids and arm skids so far its great I drive all over the us for work 270 days yr and off-roading were ever we end up we have done a crap load of trails we put about 40k a yr oh this rig so far in fact its time to change tires soon not sure if I'm going to keep the spare if I don't ill do aluminum front end to hello balance I even tossed around 38s not sure yet but id like to to do a better shock and spring soon.
Well, ground clearance is the result of tire size, unless it is portal axle. Lift, fender clearing, body mount move are few things to clear your desired tire size at full up travel and steer.
Sorry, but Im a Tundra owner here who offroads. I often see lifted full size trucks with some envy going down the highway, but I know had I had one of those in some situations Ive been in , I would have rolled it. A Dobinsons 3" lift on true 35s handles great everywhere, with obstacle limits, of course, but she's not a rock crawler.
Really interesting perspective on things ... Just bought a 2024 Rubicon X and have purposefully not done a ton of mods EXCEPT belly skids, diff skids and hitch skid. Worked well so far BUT a lot of scraping in the challenging terrain I like. Thinking of making a modest change to the vehicle for next year as I think a couple of inches might make a big difference for me. Thinking of getting 37s and some Mickey Thompsons and seeing how that works. Probably will need to replace fenders (will see) ... think anything else would be required?
Leave your stock suspension hight alone, you need true ground clearance, (big tires), good flex, and depending on your needs a stiff or springy suspension. Simple.
rookie. everything involved with off and on road driven vehicles is complicated. nothing makes me sicker than seeing a 4wd driving down an asphalt road and swaying back and forth like its going to flop over. totally unimpressive and foolishly unsafe.
@@orionoutdoorsandworkshop5617 Well it’s just that camber, caster, CG, bump steer, pinion angle, cv angle, instant center, blah blah blah all that stuff is simple and he’s making it sound like its a guarded secret only he knows. I could make a YT and explain things a million times better instead of talking about it like it’s black magic we can only obtain through him.
@@snivesz32 i meant no insult. usually, i dont watch videos like this unless im interested in learning something new. even then i dont take one as the word of God. i hope nobody believes its black magic. personally i wouldnt lift anything. cut the fenders get taller tires and you wont get more than that. maybe more impressive, have way more articulation etc. to do more if your thrashing the hell out of something you have a fortune in, its probably necessary. im sure many viewers would watch your video on how suspension works and what is really potato and gravy versus the frosting. (my good friend and i were camping recently and had a heated discussion on you tube videos. i believe he left with a whole new image of me. i hate fake. nuff said.)
going this route on my bronco 2 door 2 in lift and 37s. i was no lift and 35s on a base my wifes bronco will be on a 3.5 lift and 35but hers is a 4 door its on 35s with no lift right now
I have a 2015 Jeep Wrangler sport Unlimited and I’m considering doing a 2 1/2 inch lift with 33s to start possibly moving to 35s if I’m not comfortable with the 33s. Is this a mistake or should I go with 3 1/2 inch lift. This will be a daily driver and a weekend warrior for me the wife and the kids to get out and have some adventures, what closest to Iowa would you suggest any or where should I go for more information on how to pick the proper lift for me and my family to have fun with our jeep?
With a 2.5in lift and mostly street driving, 35s would be fine. 33s will be a little small for you. If you plan to do more wheeling in the future and/or go to bigger tires in the future (37s) then go with the 3.5in lift. Give us a call and we can sell you a kit and have it shipped to you. (440) 813-3663
I have a 2013 JK 2dr... and... ok, I'll make it brief and cut to the point. To make a JK on a 2 1/2" lift drive/handle "correctly", you will need all the things to make a 3 1/2" lift work "correctly". If you cannot budget to do a proper/full build all at once ( I could not) I would advise you gear (lockers/traction-aid(s) if planned)/35's/bumpstop - skids - rails - bumpers - control-arms/driveshafts - steering - then lift/track-bars and dial in geometry of all the quality "adjustable" parts you already have installed... toss in winch at any point that makes since for the wheeling you are getting into. You can throw high-clearance fenders and wheel well clearance when you go to 37's :) and adjust your bump stops accordingly... so, gear for 37's the first time :). Others may have differing opinions advise, but the above is based on my experience of starting with a budget boost, then chasing everything down to fix a poor driving rig. Good luck.
Not really, but not far off either. If you ran a 2-2.5" lift that's more LCG. By today's standard 3.5"-4.5" is about max needed with higher clearance flares to fit big rubbers. 3.5" isn't a massive lift height so it still fits the LCG model within reason.
Back in the day, we used the cut and fold technique in the wheel wells to successfully run 35s with 4.5in of lift while retaining all door function and unibody integrity.
This is great stuff! Great insight and well thought out perspective. I have been thinking of this a lot lately myself. I have a 21 JLU with a 2” lift, fox shocks and factory control arms sitting on 35s. Was considering going to 37s when the time comes, but wasn’t sure if additional lift was needed. From what you’re saying here it will not be, but there will likely be tire to body clearance issues. My Jeep already has stubby bumpers front and back, so I assume it the only concern would be control arms and the back of the front fenders, correct? What would you advise for a solution to those clearance issues? Also, since I still have factory control arms, would stock length larger control arms be a wise upgrade. Side note, this is an eco diesel with Dana 44s front and rear. So no concerns there. Should I look into a regear with 37s? Thanks! Keep up the great content!
Hey so i have helped guide a few JLU's on 37's that i have helped build from friends around here. i am not sure if you have done so but splitting rubicon fenders will net you another 1 to 1.5 inches of clearance. Your other issue will depend on the wheels you currently have and their offset if it rubs your control arms. If they are factory wheels you will most definitely rub on the factory control arms if you go with a 37x12.50. In my scenario i went with a wider offset sticking the wheel and tire further away and upgraded my control arms. But the the wider offset will defintiely help in clearing them of the control arms. If you are going to pay for upgraded control arms you might as well pay slightly more for adjustable ones. Some are very good and and come with a great support company like core4x4, clayton off road and some others i can't remember now. Again just my 2 cents of having helped a few other jlu's realize Low CG was possible and just as good.
I would love to have an LCG build, but I have a Gladiator and the breakover angle is terrible. I am using a long-arm, radius arm build with the suspension about 4 5-5 inches higher than stock and 40" tires. Not gonna lie, it's sketchy at 30⁰. I have no idea how to get a Gladiator LCG and still have the clearance to go on trails that are 7+ out of 10.
That's just the nature of wheeling a JT. Wider axles will make you feel more stable and I would recommend skid plates so when you do rub you'll be protected
@@SFJ4x4 I appreciate the advice. I have the full MetalCloak skid plate system, which brings some piece of mind. This winter, I am going to put some D60's under it and plan to get the widest one I can find.
I'm currently in the process of modifying my 93 YJ. I'm doing coilovers long arms and tons. I have the rear axle in and I agree with you about the center of gravity being lower. I'm working on a way to install taller shock towers for the coilovers for flex and keep it lower with longer travel.
Two things survived the early 2000's. One being the fact that low COG, large tires for offroad is ideal. The second being that faux hawk. Wait till people learn Independent suspension beats solid axles on buggies like in King of the Hammers.
LOVE portal concepts! Almost no lift so geometries are all flat as possible, increased ground clearance, and typically a wider side to side wheel base for a planted feel. The biggest challenge is we have yet to have a reliable manufacturer bring them to market in an affordable and production sustainable manner. Several overseas military production vehicles have featured them over the years, but we've never really seen them successfully used across the market.
@@SFJ4x4 74 weld has come out with portals for Jeeps and other brand names. but to your point 20K is definitely not affordable. when a lift, tires and wheels will be far less than that.
So you preach long arm and LCG. I don't see a single long arm manufacturer that offers a lift less than 3.5". This is true for all reputable companies. Metalcloak, Rock Krawler, AEV, Teraflex etc. Unless you are VERY mechanically inclined hows a laymen find a kit that's both long arm and LCG?
This is a good observation on your part regarding manufacturer's advertised kits, however longer control arms don't inherently create lift. Depending on the manufacturers frame side brackets, control arm travel path, and axle side mount you can get away with 1.5 - 2" of spring height and be successful on and off road. 3" of lift height is the safe zone for manufacturers to advertise their kits so that the average installer can have success during the installation and within a convenient price point. Realistically most manufacturers also offer just their long arm configurations without springs or shocks so you can supplement whatever combination meet your needs.
What I don't get... When listening to RUclips parrots. If things are in the way you either remove, cut, or message with a sledge hammer out of the way. it's not that technical. When you start adding lifts then you're making it more complex than it needs to be. Bottom line most people want a lift because they don't want to scratch their vehicle. Address the problem first, scratching the vehicle, get over it by hitting your wheel well with a hammer closest to the firewall to gain room and get 35" tires and have fun. Once I have someone do that and stick them on a trail, they are able to speak the lingo and describe what they feel in order to use fabricators to weld up a solution.
Yeah yeah.. but you still need breakover angle. It's all about compromise. You'll run into getting hung up on your cross member FAR more often than you'll potentially roll over. Figure out what kind of offroading you want to do and build for that. Saying that one type of build is the best for all offroading is just stupidity.
look around, even when lifted most people end up cutting anyway. vehicles are built with people in mind who will abuse the vehicle then say it was defective. the fender clearance is set to dissuade you from putting tires that are too large and stressful to the drivetrain.
This is why my 2 door Jk has stayed stock on 33’s so far. I’m focused on armoring the bottom right now.
It's so refreshing to hear someone talk about function and practicality. If you would like to see guys racing about how cool their monster rig is, and how out looks like it could win at KotH, Ican link you to a couple of thousand videos.
Lower center of mass also results in less weight transfer on hills and off camber trails. Less weight transfer means tires are more evenly loaded which provides better traction and stability.
Remove doors, hard top, and spare tire to further lower CG for trail runs. Keep tools and recovery gear behind seats on the floor. Find a new home for your hi-lift jack. Roof top tents are definitely out of the question.
2015 JK Rubicon 2dr. 1.5” TF leveling kit, 1” added bump stop front and rear, ½” trim on front fender flairs (only needed on full turn & full stuff disconnected), Bilstein 5100 shocks, 1” wheel spacers front, 1.25” on rear. I run this with 35 x10.5R17 on factory wheels disconnected, with no steering stop washers. Some of the guys I run with have referred to my jeep as “Pretty much stock” and that makes me smile.
ive had 2 people at work this week ask me how will a lift cost and how much lift should they get on there jeep. I told them to pick a tire size first
I'd ask what's the end goal first? To actually build an offroader or mall krawler? Try to have an end goal to travel the correct/ cheapest way
I have a 2024 Wrangler Rubicon Extreme Recon (35 inch tire package) and I believe it’s the perfect height. Jeep nailed it!
Bronco nailed it
@@DarylRagland-ds1op They sure did! Those Bronco front ends snap like dry twigs! 💥
same here, bought one in June.
Neil, You’re on the money with the LCG concept. I’ve resisted the urge to move up to 40”s on my JLU and have learned that my setup on 37”s with a 3-1/2” lift is the perfect place to be - especially since you put the PSC steering on her for me. I just made my third trip out to Colorado & Utah, driving out and back (trailers are for wussies) and doing every noteworthy trail we could find. Let me tell you - if my jeep couldn’t handle the 3,500 mile drive out and back in comfort and control I would never have done it a second and third time. I know of multitudes of Jeeps that no-one would make that journey in . My current setup feels very confident on the highway, and does everything I ask off-road. I am where I want to be. PEACE
Love to hear it
JP Mag once fit 35s on a TJ without any suspension lift. They only lifted the body 1", which gave them space for high-clearance t-case/fueltank skidplates, a 1" MML, and taller shocktowers. The bodymounts were also upgraded to polyurethane from the stock rubber. They also "clearanced" fenders, installed adjustable control-arms to extend the wheelbase slightly, and used a SYE.
This approach netted them about 2.5" of added clearance under the diffs, vs stock 30" tires...with 3.5" more clearance under the oilpan, and WAY more clearance under the t-case and fueltank...while retaining a low COG, fairly-low overall height to fit under overhangs, and a stock ride. Approach, departure, and breakover angles were improved better than installing a 2" suspension lift and 32s, with 1.5" more clearance under the diffs vs the 32s, and considerably better breakover than if a t-case drop was used with that 2" suspension lift and 32s. The RTI of the Jeep improved vs stock as well, and such mods would also likely be very complementary to any decent possible future suspension lift, whether minimal or tall.
Low and stable is definitely the way to go. My YJ is around 3 1/2 higher than factory and is on a 40" tire. My suspension is comprised of long arms front and rear with 16" travel shocks. I have about 3" of up travel so it is certainly not built for high speed bumps. It does handle the low speed rocks like a champ though. The other necessary factor to make an LCG rig like this work is a wheelbase stretch. I have about 12" of wheelbase stretch.
For a 2dr Wrangler... 35s x 10.5 skinnies, 1.5" lift, and 2" hubcentric spacers. Low, lightweight rotation, wide, and stable. With the added ability to shred thru mud/forest terrain better than a 12.5 tire.
Good day Neil & everyone. I don’t own a Jeep but a long wheel base Suzuki Sierra here in Australia. I run 235x85x16 with standard height springs, 1/2 inch blocks between bump stops & chassis. I’ve also done a virtual lift by cutting 1 inch of the wheel arches. It sure is the way to go no matter what 4x4 we own. Much better on & off road & dosnt attract unwanted attention if you know what I mean. Over all it’s 3 inches higher than standard due to my tires. I’m still working on a decent light weight skid plate for the belly & undecided on which lockers. Thanks for alway putting out great content & keep up the great work. Remember one & all, low & slows the go.
That's awesome! Thanks for watching
I just added 2" taller tires and a 3/4" hockey puck on the coils and head to the mall.
Those curbs are no match. 🤪🤭😁
I jacked mine up and stuffed the springs with tennis balls
Two jeeps 2020 jeep it with 4.25" inch lift and 37, drives awesome. 2019 rubi with 2.5" lift and 35. The only reason I went so big on the jt was to overcome break over angle for the l...o....n ...g wheelbase.
I did a 4 inch long arm lift on my XJ. I had to cut the fenders and put big fiberglass fender flares on it. Went with 35 inch tires and 4.56 gears. I'm digging it so far! It is shorter than a stock RAM pick up and handles like a dream. its 1 ton crossover steering really makes it handle like a dream.
had a lifted 08 tacoma 6"lift on 37"... wobbly AF ... new build .. 2020 Ram 2500 6.4 hemi single cab long bed tradesman with an aluminum flatbed on 35's (its the lightest 2500 you can configure) with a pop top truck camper (specifically being lighter and LCG compared to a hardside), currently but planning on 37's stuffed through combo of minimal leveling kit,, careful rim offset choice / sumo springs to support the camper better.... also added aluminum storage boxes under the flatbed to lower the CG even more by storing as much heavy gear and fluids as low as possible.
primary use will be Rougher Forest Service / BLM roads that the average Subaru would have some trouble with. acting as a basecamp for 1-2 week long high power off road e-moto adventures. not Rock Crawling or Mudding or Running BAHA. Minimal lift during suspension mods. mods should support overall drivability and goals for the vehicle only!
I've kept my Jeeps on stock springs until the springs broke, sagged, or hindered articulation. The stock springs usually weren't the limiting factor offroad, even on my CJs or YJ.
With the coil-sprung Jeeps, the springs aren't the limiting factor when towing/hauling either, as they can easily/affordably be supplemented with in-coil airbags to avoid sag/squat. The brakes, cooling, wheelbase, GAWR and GVWR are often the issues.
Good to hear about the cons of just lifting
I always liked the way a tj with with mudders on, so I got my Jk on 2.5 with 35"/12, and it looks sweet and is as off road capable as I needed to be!
Like many people, my TJ is an ever evolving build but I think regardless of whether you go for LCG or HCG or something in between, adjustable control arms a must if you want any kind of performance and comfort for your rig.
Only went with a 3.5” lift running 35s on a jt and it does great
I love my JKU not being too jacked up. Just a 2.5" lift and some 35X11.50 MT's is my choice. Also 4.88 gears, they work so great with the 4:1 transfer case and my 6 speed manual.
This video reminds of the old days, when a 10-15 Gates Commando was considered to be "big off road rubber" and my dad and uncles, like everybody else who wanted to run those "floatation tires" on first-gen Broncos, cut the wheel-well opening to make them fit. Had lift kits been available back then, they would not have been interested.
This video really grabbed my attention. Years ago I bought a TJ with a 4" short arm lift running 33s. My driving is about 85% on road, 15% off road. My TJ has always felt like it's on stilts. The body roll in everyday driving is spooky, and while it has never "misbehaved" on or off road, it isn't confidence inspiring. It came with a full set of skid plates and there isn't a single scuff on any of them. I've never really had any clearance issues when off-roading - in fact I've scraped a slider only once in the last 6-7 years. I've been thinking about a long-arm swap with less lift and high clearance fenders, and based on this video that seems like a smart move. I'm also thinking about going with bigger diameter wheels so I can upgrade the "wish" brakes on my jeep. (Wish brakes - you step on the pedal and wish you had better brakes.) Any recommendations?
Yes, we pretty much always recommend upgrading to long arms. As for the bigger wheels, there isn't many options for 17in wheels for TJs so I would recommend using wheel adapters so you can use a 5x5 bolt pattern wheel, like what you would find on a JK.
I had figured on "upgrading" the bolt pattern on my TJ - a buddy of mine has already offered me a set of 17s in the 5 on 5 pattern, so how can I say no? Any idea how much lift I'll need with high clearance fenders?
OMG yes! This is exactly the build I was looking to do! I never had a name for the build style till now. Thank you so much!
Happy to help!
My Powerwagon has 1 inch of lift over stock and rides on 40 inch tires. I removed wheel well instead of lifting higher and it has great off-road and on road performance.
How's the suspension droop? I'd like to get some ORI struts and put them on my MJ, I have a vision for it, and it's low cog, interior and exterior roll cage, dovetailed on the back and maybe the front if I can manage it and cut the body up a bit. I also have an XJ, but I'm hesitant to build it as I don't really like uni body builds too much and to sit it on a frame would be tough.
I have a 2021 JLU that from the original purchase was always going to be a low center of gravity lift. Many people told me it couldnt be done and was stupid for even thinking of it. Currently its sitting on 37's with a 2.5 inch rock crawler springs, 4 to 5 inch lift fox shocks for added droop. Factory fenders and body panel have been removed and new felders have been bolted to the roll bar directly in the engine bay giving me 8 inches of up travel. The jeep also has core 4x4 tier 4 mid arms and no front sway bar for the last 2 years. Handles beautiful on-road and off-road from parks like windrock to AOP. It will be going to 40's soon enough and i will still have 6.5 to 7 inches of uptravel as the my current custom fenders sit above the hood line.
Sounds like a pretty sweet build!
I daily a 2014 jk with a 2.5 aev lift , 35’s for tire and high clearance flares. Nothing huge. But perfect for me. I don’t need a big lift. I drive a Jeep I’m already cool. 😂. Loved the video. Thank you 🙏🏼
Right on
I’m running 39 inch KM3s (so, 38s lol) on a JT rubicon with a 2.5 inch Clayton lift, 17x8.5 0mm wheels, fenders haven’t been chopped yet, and they fit exceptionally. No rubbing left to right, does scrub plastic when I stuff them, but the fender chop will fix that. Need to upgrade a few skids, but other than that it works great.
I have a 17 JKU. I started with 35’s and a 3.5” Metalcloak lift which did great. As I went to 37’s and loaded it down with bodies and gear, the springs compressed way past expectation, Giving me little up travel. I then decided to go with 4.5” springs and lighten the load a bit. This combo seems to work well for me as all the added weight from bumpers, larger spares, and gear - almost bottomed me out on the trail.
Lastly, I recently went to tons and 40’s on the same 4.5” metalcloak springs and feel I’m at a good height compromise For suspension height and tire size in mind.
All this said, I do think it’s worth mentioning that when I compared mine and my brothers MC lifts vs Rock Krawler lifts several friends have, the 2.5” RC lifts settle higher than the 3.5” MC lifts and similarly with 3.5” RC lifts being just as high as a 4.5” MC lift.
So while I do have a 4.5” lift, I wonder if the MC lifts of this height are more like a 3.5” lift with other manufacturers. I’m not complaining- just an observation. I’m very happy with my MC lift…and their customer service is awesome.
Consider installing supplemental in-coil airbags to avoid sag/squat, especially when hauling towing. They can also help offroad articulation, if you connect left and right via T-fittings.
Airbags are only about $100/pr.
05 Jeep LJ with Old man emu 2" springs/shocks and 33". Need to regear to 4.88 since I live in CO.
I got a 2 1/2 lift with 33s and I'm pretty satisfied with it, now I just want to get adjustable control arms, and track bars and anything else that can make my alignment better and whatever else that'll help my performance off-road
I build my RC crawlers using low center of gravity. They crawl much better than the lifted cars.
Makes sense it would work in life size cars.
Great video Neil! Always learning!! Jeep On!
Always!
Buen vídeo, muy buen vídeo
When I first got my jeep I went to Hot Springs OHV park and the guy there told me put the biggest tires that will fit with the lowest amount of lift necessary. Keep the COG low as possible.
I’m not in a Jeep but I’ve upgraded my Kawasaki KRX from a 31” (measured 30.25”) to a true to size 33”.
I have left the suspension alone and love how planted the rig still feels yet having decent size tires for SXS.
After these are worn out I may even for to a 35”, which is maximum size without doing a lift. However, may need clutch work then.
I like the lcg idea. I built a cj5 back in the 1970s and wanted big tires, but wanted the center of gravity low. I ran 31 Armstrong true trac tires, which were big at the time. Soon tires became larger and lift kits appeared. My jeep did very well in the day. A bunch of leaf springs, Monroe shocks, 410 gears, chevy small block, t10 trans, dana 18. I now bought a 1984 cj7 and plan to build it for on off road again. Im looking for suggestions on what might work. Im old and have old school tendencies.
Shoot us a text or message us via Facebook and we can talk through it with you. Also, we can get you any parts you might need. (440) 855-2100
I have a 2024 392 just this way I added 37" Nittis Trails 1" bump rear was not happy with the flex so I added 1" levelers on all 4 2" shock drops and added 2.5 mopar lower control arms for fix the Geometry also added all Steersmarts steering with fox ats2.0 I jut picked up DV8 front bump and Metalcloak rear bump to help the harsh hits I also added metal cloak rear muffler skid diff skids and arm skids so far its great I drive all over the us for work 270 days yr and off-roading were ever we end up we have done a crap load of trails we put about 40k a yr oh this rig so far in fact its time to change tires soon not sure if I'm going to keep the spare if I don't ill do aluminum front end to hello balance I even tossed around 38s not sure yet but id like to to do a better shock and spring soon.
Well, ground clearance is the result of tire size, unless it is portal axle. Lift, fender clearing, body mount move are few things to clear your desired tire size at full up travel and steer.
Sorry, but Im a Tundra owner here who offroads. I often see lifted full size trucks with some envy going down the highway, but I know had I had one of those in some situations Ive been in , I would have rolled it.
A Dobinsons 3" lift on true 35s handles great everywhere, with obstacle limits, of course, but she's not a rock crawler.
I have a cj5 with 2.5” lift and 32” tires. 2” wheel spacers
No lift, 35s, long arms 2015 JKU, might do 37s next but regear.
Also, I have no light bars yet 😂
Really interesting perspective on things ... Just bought a 2024 Rubicon X and have purposefully not done a ton of mods EXCEPT belly skids, diff skids and hitch skid. Worked well so far BUT a lot of scraping in the challenging terrain I like. Thinking of making a modest change to the vehicle for next year as I think a couple of inches might make a big difference for me. Thinking of getting 37s and some Mickey Thompsons and seeing how that works. Probably will need to replace fenders (will see) ... think anything else would be required?
Gotta protect the underbelly.
Leave your stock suspension hight alone, you need true ground clearance, (big tires), good flex, and depending on your needs a stiff or springy suspension. Simple.
This guy could overcomplicate scrambled eggs.
rookie. everything involved with off and on road driven vehicles is complicated.
nothing makes me sicker than seeing a 4wd driving down an asphalt road and swaying back and forth like its going to flop over. totally unimpressive and foolishly unsafe.
@@orionoutdoorsandworkshop5617 Well it’s just that camber, caster, CG, bump steer, pinion angle, cv angle, instant center, blah blah blah all that stuff is simple and he’s making it sound like its a guarded secret only he knows. I could make a YT and explain things a million times better instead of talking about it like it’s black magic we can only obtain through him.
@@snivesz32 i meant no insult. usually, i dont watch videos like this unless im interested in learning something new. even then i dont take one as the word of God. i hope nobody believes its black magic.
personally i wouldnt lift anything. cut the fenders get taller tires and you wont get more than that. maybe more impressive, have way more articulation etc. to do more if your thrashing the hell out of something you have a fortune in, its probably necessary.
im sure many viewers would watch your video on how suspension works and what is really potato and gravy versus the frosting.
(my good friend and i were camping recently and had a heated discussion on you tube videos. i believe he left with a whole new image of me. i hate fake.
nuff said.)
going this route on my bronco 2 door 2 in lift and 37s. i was no lift and 35s on a base my wifes bronco will be on a 3.5 lift and 35but hers is a 4 door its on 35s with no lift right now
I have a 2015 Jeep Wrangler sport Unlimited and I’m considering doing a 2 1/2 inch lift with 33s to start possibly moving to 35s if I’m not comfortable with the 33s. Is this a mistake or should I go with 3 1/2 inch lift. This will be a daily driver and a weekend warrior for me the wife and the kids to get out and have some adventures, what closest to Iowa would you suggest any or where should I go for more information on how to pick the proper lift for me and my family to have fun with our jeep?
With a 2.5in lift and mostly street driving, 35s would be fine. 33s will be a little small for you. If you plan to do more wheeling in the future and/or go to bigger tires in the future (37s) then go with the 3.5in lift. Give us a call and we can sell you a kit and have it shipped to you. (440) 813-3663
I have a 2013 JK 2dr... and... ok, I'll make it brief and cut to the point. To make a JK on a 2 1/2" lift drive/handle "correctly", you will need all the things to make a 3 1/2" lift work "correctly".
If you cannot budget to do a proper/full build all at once ( I could not) I would advise you gear (lockers/traction-aid(s) if planned)/35's/bumpstop - skids - rails - bumpers - control-arms/driveshafts - steering - then lift/track-bars and dial in geometry of all the quality "adjustable" parts you already have installed... toss in winch at any point that makes since for the wheeling you are getting into. You can throw high-clearance fenders and wheel well clearance when you go to 37's :) and adjust your bump stops accordingly... so, gear for 37's the first time :).
Others may have differing opinions advise, but the above is based on my experience of starting with a budget boost, then chasing everything down to fix a poor driving rig.
Good luck.
I have a stock gladiator sport and planning to go to 37” tires and 3-3.5” lift. Is that considered LCG?
Not really, but not far off either. If you ran a 2-2.5" lift that's more LCG. By today's standard 3.5"-4.5" is about max needed with higher clearance flares to fit big rubbers. 3.5" isn't a massive lift height so it still fits the LCG model within reason.
I would rather have an LCG build than a 2in lift.
I just know nothing about either one. I believe my jk would look awesome as an LCG build
Finally someone says it!
What is the best LCG tire/lift configuration on a XJ that maintains drivability?
Back in the day, we used the cut and fold technique in the wheel wells to successfully run 35s with 4.5in of lift while retaining all door function and unibody integrity.
Is it possible to do 35s with a 3.5 inch lift or will it ruin all door function and unibody integrity?
No. You would have to do a whole lot of cutting.
This is great stuff! Great insight and well thought out perspective. I have been thinking of this a lot lately myself.
I have a 21 JLU with a 2” lift, fox shocks and factory control arms sitting on 35s. Was considering going to 37s when the time comes, but wasn’t sure if additional lift was needed. From what you’re saying here it will not be, but there will likely be tire to body clearance issues. My Jeep already has stubby bumpers front and back, so I assume it the only concern would be control arms and the back of the front fenders, correct? What would you advise for a solution to those clearance issues? Also, since I still have factory control arms, would stock length larger control arms be a wise upgrade.
Side note, this is an eco diesel with Dana 44s front and rear. So no concerns there. Should I look into a regear with 37s?
Thanks! Keep up the great content!
Hey so i have helped guide a few JLU's on 37's that i have helped build from friends around here. i am not sure if you have done so but splitting rubicon fenders will net you another 1 to 1.5 inches of clearance. Your other issue will depend on the wheels you currently have and their offset if it rubs your control arms. If they are factory wheels you will most definitely rub on the factory control arms if you go with a 37x12.50.
In my scenario i went with a wider offset sticking the wheel and tire further away and upgraded my control arms. But the the wider offset will defintiely help in clearing them of the control arms. If you are going to pay for upgraded control arms you might as well pay slightly more for adjustable ones. Some are very good and and come with a great support company like core4x4, clayton off road and some others i can't remember now.
Again just my 2 cents of having helped a few other jlu's realize Low CG was possible and just as good.
I would love to have an LCG build, but I have a Gladiator and the breakover angle is terrible. I am using a long-arm, radius arm build with the suspension about 4 5-5 inches higher than stock and 40" tires. Not gonna lie, it's sketchy at 30⁰. I have no idea how to get a Gladiator LCG and still have the clearance to go on trails that are 7+ out of 10.
That's just the nature of wheeling a JT. Wider axles will make you feel more stable and I would recommend skid plates so when you do rub you'll be protected
@@SFJ4x4 I appreciate the advice. I have the full MetalCloak skid plate system, which brings some piece of mind. This winter, I am going to put some D60's under it and plan to get the widest one I can find.
More details, costs, examples and how to please.
I'm currently in the process of modifying my 93 YJ. I'm doing coilovers long arms and tons. I have the rear axle in and I agree with you about the center of gravity being lower. I'm working on a way to install taller shock towers for the coilovers for flex and keep it lower with longer travel.
Two things survived the early 2000's. One being the fact that low COG, large tires for offroad is ideal. The second being that faux hawk.
Wait till people learn Independent suspension beats solid axles on buggies like in King of the Hammers.
Where would portal axles fit into this scenario? No change to the suspension and the lift is at the axle
LOVE portal concepts! Almost no lift so geometries are all flat as possible, increased ground clearance, and typically a wider side to side wheel base for a planted feel. The biggest challenge is we have yet to have a reliable manufacturer bring them to market in an affordable and production sustainable manner. Several overseas military production vehicles have featured them over the years, but we've never really seen them successfully used across the market.
@@SFJ4x4They are becoming big in the SXS market, especially for “mud rigs”.
@@SFJ4x4 74 weld has come out with portals for Jeeps and other brand names. but to your point 20K is definitely not affordable. when a lift, tires and wheels will be far less than that.
@@jeepervirus74 weld is rumored to be working on a lower cost cast version of their portals
Say this all the time. People just want height.
So you preach long arm and LCG. I don't see a single long arm manufacturer that offers a lift less than 3.5". This is true for all reputable companies. Metalcloak, Rock Krawler, AEV, Teraflex etc. Unless you are VERY mechanically inclined hows a laymen find a kit that's both long arm and LCG?
This is a good observation on your part regarding manufacturer's advertised kits, however longer control arms don't inherently create lift. Depending on the manufacturers frame side brackets, control arm travel path, and axle side mount you can get away with 1.5 - 2" of spring height and be successful on and off road. 3" of lift height is the safe zone for manufacturers to advertise their kits so that the average installer can have success during the installation and within a convenient price point. Realistically most manufacturers also offer just their long arm configurations without springs or shocks so you can supplement whatever combination meet your needs.
This is the same of Toyota or IFS. Bigger lift, less down travel, less articulation.
You’re only referencing Jeeps… more specifically wranglers. Cool story. Should put that in the title so people don’t waste their time.
Well, there is a Jeep in the thumbnail ;) Realistically, the idea of an LCG build can be applied to most off-road vehicles.
Lower your 4x4! 😂😂
What I don't get... When listening to RUclips parrots. If things are in the way you either remove, cut, or message with a sledge hammer out of the way. it's not that technical. When you start adding lifts then you're making it more complex than it needs to be. Bottom line most people want a lift because they don't want to scratch their vehicle. Address the problem first, scratching the vehicle, get over it by hitting your wheel well with a hammer closest to the firewall to gain room and get 35" tires and have fun.
Once I have someone do that and stick them on a trail, they are able to speak the lingo and describe what they feel in order to use fabricators to weld up a solution.
Yeah yeah.. but you still need breakover angle. It's all about compromise. You'll run into getting hung up on your cross member FAR more often than you'll potentially roll over.
Figure out what kind of offroading you want to do and build for that. Saying that one type of build is the best for all offroading is just stupidity.
So cut the shit out of your vehicle 👍🏼
look around, even when lifted most people end up cutting anyway. vehicles are built with people in mind who will abuse the vehicle then say it was defective. the fender clearance is set to dissuade you from putting tires that are too large and stressful to the drivetrain.
nice video, but get rid of that intro. It's way too loud, and unnecessary.