Hi, watched a few vids now and I know you use acrylic and foam to fix the boards, l know the foam grabs quick and let's you move on while the acrylic sets. Where I'm a bit confused is does the foam not spoil the effect of the acrylic, I imagine it doesn't because you would stop using it, but then why not just use the foam to fix. What's the benefit of both.
Hi, thanks for watching, when the foam dots are first put on the board they are so flimsy that the board would just touch the wall if you applied it straight away. With the drygrip dot in place too you can feel when you ease the board to the wall, Also as the drygrip dots are around the same size the board is against the wall pretty even meaning if the wall is plumb the boards are not far off straight too. When set the drygrip has a mega strong bond with the masonry about 10 times stronger than the instastik. Iv used drygrip to stick all sorts of things and materials
@@dampsamSo do you use Instastix and Drygrip (from Safeguard) to stick the regular standard plasterboard. What are your thoughts on using Hardy or Elememt board instead?
Hi thanks for this video. I watched it a few times but still unsure why you need the vertical injections? Is it because you are only doing one wall and not the whole room?
Damp proofing injection does not work. You need to find the cause (probably a small leak somewhere) and stop it. If that's not possible you need to leave the brick out in the open and have good ventilation or add a breathable lime plaster and have good ventilation
I agree that each damp issue has to be diagnosed and not all damp is rising. Lime plasters can work in the right situation but not every one, they are expensive too and not accessible to all. Poorer people have a right to live damp free and this is why cheaper faster systems were brought to market.
U can also have more than one issue. In our 30s semi, in kitchen, when first moved in damp, mould appeared. After investigation by me, I cut the back out of low cupboard under sink, but it was slightly further over from sink pipes was an old pipe sticking upright that had been capped but was very slightly leaking. Not enough to flood but did make very damp behind cupboard. Fixed it all pleased with myself in the hope that was that. Still got damp possibly from a concrete slab added at back door under kitchen window. Eventually I cut channel in it so it wasn't connected to the wall of house above the ground level. Still to finish that job. But also condensation is quite common. Any steam hits the gable end wall and ends up dripping down wall, if don't have extractor fan on and window open. It soon drys, but winter it takes a bit longer, and can be tough opening window when freezing. Watch out for drying clothes too. Especially on radiator. Really u need window open too, so the moisture can escape. I've seen it a lot. Tons of washing drying, windows closed causing bad mould growth.
Its best not to use plasterboard but instead use the light weight tiling boards. I have done this on a very cold/ damp external Victoria property and its been over 5 years with no damp patches or black old growth!!
Thanks for your videos. I've been told not to plaster onto skirting or architrave. Is this only when it's unpainted? Is there a risk of deforming with a same day skirting refit? Thanks
Not a clue wally, no understanding of Building Sceince. Plenty bull talk, none of your systems will work, short term expensive works that are inadequate and will not solve the underline problem.
I can tell from your use of the English language you truly are educated to the highest standard in the mould of Hawkins. Our record speaks for itself, we don’t get issues with the systems we install. Have a great day Trollin with your made up profile, 😂
You would need to go on safeguards website and find out I can only explain so much and I don’t have time to try convince people the system works anymore. I’m not selling it I’m showing people it
Hi mate, I have a penetrative damp problem from the bathroom to the bedroom wall. Basically getting through the tiles on the shower wall. Obviously got to to strip the bathroom wall tiles on that wall. What should my next step be?
Considering this system for my internal wall (no cavity) that has been diagnosed as rising damp - do you see there being any advantage to installing a couple of vents along the bottom of the plasterboard/skirting to allow the wall to "breathe"? I know people keep advocating for lime plaster, but this might be a happy medium that is both quick, affordable, and allows the underlying brickwork to vent.
You would just be making holes in the wall so if you want to lose all the heat in your house that’s what will happen. Make sure your treating the correct type of dampness then use the correct system
@@dampsam yeah it's definitely rising damp - internal wall between hall and kitchen in a lower ground property, no damp proof course on the internal wall so doing DPC injections then just got a consideration about how to reapply plaster/render over the brick once treated. Wall has a radiator on it too, I'm not sure how much heat would be lost as it's internal.
Great video mate just subscribed to your channel and podcasts about a month ago, playing catch up on them. I'm still learning from your videos isn't the bottom section of the wall one of the most important for damp and can't understand why the other company thought was ok to use bonding and was surprised they didn't pull the skirting off. I skimmed a few rooms myself for the first time last year and came out ok even a plasterer said that when had a look, I've gotta admit found plastering the most strenuous of the work done on house especially ceilings. Keep up the god work
Interesting method ive not seen used before, generally I would sbr the wall first slurry the wall a few times once tack on SBR coat, then sbr the dry slurry and render the slurry with sbr render, I never use a injection systems they are all useless, if your render is thin enough then I suppose it would be good to then do this onto the render and use either a insulated board or green board, what is the acrylic you are using and is the foam a pu type?
Alright mate just after some advice I've got damp patch on my new extension wall we're it's a cavity wall but the ground outside is built up with hardcore and then Indian stone how do I stop the damp thinking knock off plasterboard then k11 tanking an redo board an skim will this work
Would you inject to solve damp, or use slurry, sbr, and gear for salts, then render ??? Ive seen injection fail a few times. Sovereign show a how to, just rendering and slurry coat with K11. Have you seen that work , without injection?
You could have a go but it would be hard, Iv tried using both separately and I find using both is better for larger boards, just the drygrip is good for small boards.
If you use board adhesive, it will mould and salts will come through if it has not been treated with safeguard salt neutralising cream and or dry rods installed if the house was built before 1859 (when slate damp course was first used), there will be no slate DPC, so you will have the same issue over and over.
Hi, my damp wall has a massive amount of plaser on it, 50mm could i "Layer" boards using dot and dab to achieve thickness or do you have another suggestion
Hi simon I would like some advice my daughter house, has a cold spot in corner of one her bedrooms it feels damp and there’s some mould starting.I have been up in the loft over into the corner were the damp is but it is dry there about 100 mil insulation ,but my daughter house is a semi that corner is were the devideing wall meets the exterior wall ,I would like to here your thoughts on this problem and the benefit of your experience.
Hi james, without seeing any picture it’s hard, but check for leaking gutters or rainwater hitting the wall outside and inside I’d check the ventilation is adequate with the cooker hood vented externally and a continuously running low carbon fan in the bathroom for a start.
@@dampsamSorry to jump in on your chat but l had a similar situation in my bedroom on the chimney breast. Around 1 Sqm of the wall felt damp so l investigated directly above in the loft and even removed some of the brickwork to gain access to the inside of the chimney. On inspection it was dusty and dry inside….🤨 I decided to remove the section of plaster down to brick and discovered the plaster was sound and dry so my plan involved foaming a piece of foil backed plasterboard to the brickwork then skimmed the entire chimney breast and once dry re painted the wall. That was 3 yrs ago and no more issues with the damp. I came to the conclusion it was condensation forming in that area due to a cold spot caused by the cold air inside the chimney stack and warm air from inside the house.
What a great video cheers can I pick your brains what kind of foam is it your using and what have you drilled into the wall iv just tanked my wall and the water running down the tanking is unreal ant help would be great
Hi thanks for watching. Is the wall below ground? I’m wondering because that would be the only reason it should be tanked ( waterproofed). I don’t think water will be coming out of the wall. What tends to happen is condensation will form on the material and if it’s waterproof and cold then unless the ventilation is adequate it will act like a dehumidifier and run down pooling in the bottom. Always diagnose the type of damp correctly so the correct system can be used. Not all damp is rising.
@@dampsam thanks for the reply no the wall is above ground do you think I should knock the tanking off and just use the stick instead to stop the damp cheers for your reply again very helpful
Hi Sam We have rising damp around fireplace and going onto walls . Had cream injected 2 years ago. Plaster was not removed. We repainted after 6 wks . Damp still comes through badly. Using your system does it not eventually come through plaster board ?
@@dampsam good to know! I've been quoted 2k for my living room including dpc and gypsum bonding and boarding but everything I've read says not to use bonding so I'm a little dubious!
Hi. Am I ok to ask a question? I have just bought a small mid terrace which has rising damp and because it has been empty for some time, also problems with condensation. The floors have carpet laid on top of tiles which we think are on top of solid ground with a layer of ash or similar below: no modern foundations. Would you advise doing anything to the floors as well or will it be enough to damp proof the walls? Thanks.
The first thing I would advise is to get a competent qualified damp surveyor to diagnose all the different types of damp affecting the property. It’s very rare it will all be actual rising damp so you need to know which is which so the right system can be installed as a fix.
Hi Sam, when installing dry rods in old property, whats the best course of action if mortar is old and crumbly and maybe has gaps in it? Also if you have access to basement that runs under the entire property, can the DPC be installed there - just above the old failed slate dpc?
Deepak Bhari alway install any dpc on the first joint above floor level. The rods only start to work when they come in contact with moisture so as long as they are inserted at the correct spacing they can go in any type of mortar course.
Great video going to use your method to help me out just one question will it stick to insulation board and would you put board on vertical or horizontal cheers sam
@@dampsam iv done Yr process on putting these boards on the wall only thing the 2/3 inch gap at the bottom between the board and fall there's a bit of condensation appearing on the bricks any advice before I put the skirting on cheers
Hi Sam, i am finding you video’s very helpful thank you. I am currently doing some work on my own home and trying to fix some damp issues. I have solid walls and have noticed that in the past someone has used some type of cement render around 1m high on all ground floor walls. I think there is issue with bridging as its been taken down to the floor (solid floors). I have been told to remove all cement and plaster and install dpc 1 brick above the solid floor, then install batten board the walls above the dpc (using celotex foam insulated board for external walls). Theres so much conflicting information online, so easy to get lost in it all. Do you think this solution is good? I was thinking to forget battens and use the dry wall method in this video. Just wish i did not have to remove the cement render as its pretty solid.
Hi lee, It’s hard for me to comment as Iv not seen the job. I would recommend doing a postcode search on the PCA website and have a qualified surveyor look at it, make sure any issues are diagnosed correctly.
Check out Peter Ward heritage channel on here and start your education into old houses! I have and it's fascinating. Stay clear of cement based products on solid brick walls and plasterboard. You want lime.
on external solid walls where there is no cavity. is it ok to batten it out and just screw plasterboard onto it. would this be good because it stops the outside wall touching the plasterboard and allows it to dry?
Great video!!! I have quite alot of damp in 200 year house which is also rendered on the outside ( not sure if makes any odds!!) If I used the method but with a foil backed plaster board would that be a belt and braces job?
@Darren Leeson, did you end up using foil backed plasterboards? I've given my living room walls a damp course. Tearing my hair out deciding what type of plasterboard to use. @Simon Cooper, what negative impact would foil backed plastebaords have? I've bought some Soudal foam adhesive for plasterboards to stick the plasterboards on to the brick wall.
Jesus mate, don't go down that road! Your old house needs to breathe. You're just sealing it up for future problems. Perhaps hack a small piece of render off to see if it is cement based. If it is, I'd remove it and either lime render it or lime wash whatever is beneath the render. I'm presuming it's brick/stone. Just in the process of re-pointing our 1750's Cotswold stone cottage where some dick over the decades had repointed with sand and cement and caused shit loads of damp where the poor place can't breathe. Looking good and dry and comfortable now. Ps: Don't let any damp company tell you your walls need injecting in an old house, because they haven't a clue what they are on about when it comes to period properties. Just after your money.
Moisture from the ground travels up capillarys in the masonry and finds the easiest path in the mortar. The creams have ingredients in that alter the way the moisture travels and stops it rising.
Ruining old buildings. Sealing in moisture thinking your sealing it out. The old houses just need original lime based plaster and mortar. This modern industry has no place with these old places!!
Preserving old buildings using up to date tried and tested BBA approved environmentally friendly products to save time and money for customers not stringing out work using the excuse that the work is traditional.
@@dampsam your method is like going for a walk in the rain, Getting soaked through, But instead of taking off wet clothes and getting dry, You keep your wet clothes on, wrap your clothes in clingfilm and put dry ones over the top. To the outside you look dry, but underneath your still soaked with absolutely no way of the moisture escaping and drying out as air cant get to it. Absolutely nothing to with being environmentally friendly, that's totally irrelevant.
@@teocastelvecchi so whats the best way, if you dont mind me asking. Im cuurently about to adress rising damp in my old house. I was told the injection teqhnique is best
@@inamhassan2694 hi mate. Its something I've got quite a bit of experience with between me and my dad. Rising damp as it's called is almost always not the issue. I would have to see some photos and talk it through with you. Do you use whatsapp?
@@dampsam it's a property divider wall is all...this is what the company quoting me to fix it using tanking are suggesting needs doing...all for a bit of damp to the lower left side of a chimney breast which sticks out from the wall
Contact the Property Care Association (PCA) and do their technicians course in the first instance, then pick a supplier and go on their one day course to become a registered user, safeguard are good and have the best systems . I have a course coming out based on the express damp system soon which will give you the first step on the ladder. If you give me your email address I will send you our details when it’s live.
Great video Simon. I am wanting this doing but want to remove a brick fireplace at the same time. Is it better for me to take the fireplace out first and get the whole to the right size before you come, or could you do that?
Why does the wall require a DPC if there is a basement beneath? Also salt neutraliser if there is nothing in contact with the plasterboard. The wall is potentially suffering from condensation and incorrect material use.
Hello Simon Just bought a buy to let with rising damp on all downstairs rooms rics surveyor recommends I use all dryzone products, looked them up and there really expensive for what I need, what materials do you recommend for dpc injection and wall treatment then dot and dab for plaster board
Mick Peers without seeing the job it would be hard to say but any replastering after the installation of a dpc should be in accordance with BS6575 which means using a plaster system with a salt neutraliser of which there are many including the express replastering method.
Was planing on using dryzone dpc Rods then I usually just use tanking slurry but I’m told this doesn’t allow the brick to breath and is no good for rooms the have radiators or some form off heating,
rock&roll45 we don’t really go on meters or price per meter but you last week it took 2 days to do a full downstairs of a property with a long hallway, 2 Rooms, kitchen, under stairs cupboard, & hallway all in 8x4 plasterboards an 2 full walls, that didn’t include skimming though.
Hi guys 1: if you have damp walls there is normally an external problem as to why you have damp internally. (Check this first) ground moves over the years so it could be all you need is a shingle French drain installed outside. 2:when or if you remove the plaster internally ALWAYS let the walls dry out first 4-6 weeks with good ventilation in the room. NEVER EVER apply plasterboard to a wall wet like this. Plaster board turns to mush when damp,it will also stain the new plastering and painting eventually. This system is so wrong and my self i go around after so called damp injection about 5-6, years later. (I have hundreds of photos to prove this) if this property was ment to have damp course a slate damp course would have been installed when the house was built in the 1800s. Wrong wrong wrong,sorry wrong.
garymarcks nice long piece you put there on our feed. Your wrong about this system but I agree if it’s fixed with dry wall adhesive it could get damp but this system is by designed by safeguard Europe . So if you have evidence of their system that has been installed correctly and failed I’m sure they would be interested.
@@rikhughes6452 I was listening he said it if it needed a damn course in the 1800s it would have had one but damn courses weren't introduced until 1859 And to be honest who's going to allow a wall to dry out for 4 to 6 weeks now that wall has got nitrates in it which you would have to neutralise And then what put a breathable lime-based plaster back . What a lot of faff when in fact you could inject it with some high strength injection cream ( the reason they fell is because they use cheap ones). And also properly not installed.. And of course I'm digging down the external levels will help.. but we're here to make money bottom line and I very rarely get a job call back from what I do perhaps one a year out of hundreds..
Great video, May I ask what products do you use & why do you use 2 products to stick the boards on instead of just using 1 ? Also can you stick the boards with any type of waterproof adhesive ? & why do seal around to edges, especially the bottom as I thought there should be a slight gap between the boards & the floor? Thanks & merry Xmas to all
Hi Simon your videos really helpful for me. I've got rising damp to Treat that I'm be doing myself and I'm learning a lot from you. With this board fixing system, why are you using the two different products? Is it for cost, as the dryzone adhesive is very pricey, or another reason? Could I use just the insta stik or something like pink grip dryfix instead?
Hi Jonathan, in theory you could use the pink grip or one of the sticks like shit waterproof aheadives, I use drygrip as it is an ingredient of the safeguard system and was made to use with the salt neutraliser cream,
Dwayne Squires if you have an old solid wall house you should never 'damp proof' notice how the wall was still wet and he just sealed it in a covered it up. That water is going nowhere, and the bricks will rot. Old houses should never be sealed. The original lime mortar and plaster allowes moisture to evaporate through it and keep it dry. In the 70s onwards people started to point the outside bricks with cement mortar, and this started trapping moisture in. Damp started and didnt leave, then came along the 'damp industry' with all their damaging, drilling, injecting and sealing methods. IF A WALL TAKES MONTHS TO DRY OUT, HOW CAN YOU BE DONE AND HAVE GOT RID OF THE DAMP BY 3pm 🤔🤨
Quick question if you dont mind. Im damp proofing a wall exactly like this walls in lounge then behind it is steps going down to celler and then steps going upstairs. Question i have is does damp only show on one side of a wall as the lounge wall is really bad but yet I go to the otherside where the steps are going up to bedrooms and that side of the wall doesn't have any damp showing. Its only a single skin brick wall. Im trying to not disturb the staircase wall if I can help it but dont want to cause issues further down the road.
I would say that water will find its easiest route, it may depend on what plaster is on the other side, it may just be easier for the moisture to evaporate out of the wall and leave ground salt on the worst side. It could also be a different issue than rising damp so always have it checked be a relevantly qualified competent person.
Dwayne Squires. This doesnt get rid of damp. Sealing the house with cement render or even just pointing along with these methods are the leading cause of trapping damp. if you have an old solid wall house you should never 'damp proof' notice how the wall was still wet and he just sealed it in a covered it up. That water is going nowhere, and the bricks will rot. Old houses should never be sealed. The original lime mortar and plaster allowes moisture to evaporate through it and keep it dry. In the 70s onwards people started to point the outside bricks with cement mortar, and this started trapping moisture in. Damp started and didnt leave, then came along the 'damp industry' with all their damaging, drilling, injecting and sealing methods. IF A WALL TAKES MONTHS TO DRY OUT, HOW CAN YOU BE DONE AND HAVE GOT RID OF THE DAMP BY 3pm 🤔🤨
I've taken all the damaged plaster off the wall, then sprayed it with salt neutraliser, efflorescence (white salt) deposits have come back through, should I continue with your method of sticking the plaster board on the wall, do I just rub the salt off and continue or spray it again with neutraliser?
You do need to brush the salts and debris off the wall to prep the surface. I’m not familiar with your job or the products your using, make sure you follow the instruction for applying any treatments.
Yes we cover Leeds for paid surveys and some work depending on what it is and how busy we are, we only take on one job per week as it’s a bespoke service with me doing it with my lads. Best thing to do is to send pictures, videos and a description with your name and address to our WhatsApp channel 07973748566 so we can see what’s needed.
Boards are breeched at horizontal level vertical injection too far away from door frame and I spend a lot of time stripping this shit off and membrane the area cheers
Hi Simon, wanted to ask once you put in the dry zone rod in the holes in the internal wall. Do you just plaster the wall or you put a sealent on the holes and across the line of the holes? Let me know appreciated. Cheers
Hi Simon I sent you a message before, Would it be better to put in the damp cream & rod lower of the floor board as I have access under the floorboard because I could do the cream and the rod together so I have double barrier?
Hi you shouldn’t need a double barrier , it all depends on the external ground level and solid internal floor level as to where the dpc is installed. Without actually seeing it I can’t comment other than say we always go with the first course accessible mortar line above the floor level as a rule of thumb.
Quick question would it work if I first used a mapei tanking paint on the back of the board and then used a tile backer board instead of plasterboard when doing a job like this (eg q board or abacus 6/10/20mm)? Reason I ask is it won’t rot it won’t wick or hold moisture and it can be skimmed plus I have some of each spare from tiling my bathroom.I’ve dealt with the sources of damp but wall condensates badly and this board also insulates.would it work do you think?
You cant plasterboard over a damp wall. I have done it and doesn't work and it will either travel about the plasterboard or come through it. Have a look at the PCA guide lines. The dpc cream can take up to six weeks to cure and the brickwork has to dry as long as possible before re-plastering. I have even used a builders drier to dry the brickwork out before re-plastering. Still cant beat sand and cement render with a salt neutraliser.
Oh david stop making yourself look daft lad, yes waterproof render is good but can cold bridge on a solid wall. Walls can take up to 12 months to dry out after the installation of a dpc depending of how wet they are and other factors you will know I assume. I’m guessing you used dry wall to stick your plasterboard on the wall and it kind of builds a picture of you. Sounds like you had a failure and what ever you tried was wrong. This is because you have not learned how to do things right and you don’t know how moisture affects walls of building.. I all for constructive comments so if your stuck on anything just ask.
@@dampsam Dry lining walls isn't a good idea it doesn't matter what you say do you research. I have dry lined walls in the past and have never used the dot and dap method which is s recipe for disaster, the damp transfers through the daps. I have tacked the board with clout nails which leaves a sight gap so the plasterboard isn't touching the walls. I would prefer to hack off higher and use the Newton membrane 1.5 metres high and than dot and dap plasterboard this works.
@@davidellis5964 well what ever works for you, there are lots of systems out there and done right they should work. Iv never herd of clout nails used in the system though.
Thanks for all the "added value" videos this year....Simon. Have a good'un. Also will you please thank your assistant....who just seems to get on with stuff and never tries to steal your limelight in front of the camera...ha.. I think our assistants do a great job and get very little credit....the un-sung heros.
Ok let me tell you what I have Back b/room excessive damp due to builder dig up by the rear wall and to the age of the property excessive of water getting under wall because in the northeast excessive near the coast. (excessive rain fall) so I fitted extra air brick and will sort out gully by rear wall. Front of Bungalow, after house was built fully someone decided they want a bay but in, so some one put a bay in with cavity walls and did not put any damp course in the wall and now i have moved the radiator it is more obvious with the damp in the internal wall. these old building with 0.3mtr of foundation problem. that why I want to double up. Thank you for getting back to me Glen
Hi glen, my point was that if it’s installed correctly the damp proof course will work, if you use the damp check rods there will be the correct amount in each rod so if you follow safeguards instruction the barrier will be adequate and it will save you money buy just doing it the one time. We see it all the time on jobs where plasterer use waterproofing systems (tanking) to do dampproofing because they are not confident in what is needed and it’s over the top and can create other issues with condensation and cold thermal bridging.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW thanks for getting back to me Simon. Yes would love advice/guidance. Please can you let me know your email address and I’ll share the project I would like your help with.
@@dwaynesquires if you have an old solid wall house you should never 'damp proof' notice how the wall was still wet and he just sealed it in a covered it up. That water is going nowhere, and the bricks will rot. Old houses should never be sealed. The original lime mortar and plaster allowes moisture to evaporate through it and keep it dry. In the 70s onwards people started to point the outside bricks with cement mortar, and this started trapping moisture in. Damp started and didnt leave, then came along the 'damp industry' with all their damaging, drilling, injecting and sealing methods. IF A WALL TAKES MONTHS TO DRY OUT, HOW CAN YOU BE DONE AND HAVE GOT RID OF THE DAMP BY 3pm 🤔🤨
Hi mate. Using this system if there is rising damp/low level dampness (brickwork looks quite wet here) using your method how do you deal with humidity levels behind the plasterboard?
Dodge O hi thanks for watching, the reason the brickwork looks wet is because we put salt neutralising cream on which is part of the system. As far as ingress and humidity is concerned the wall will start to dry out once the dpc has been installed from that point forward and moisture will evaporate as air is allowed to flow across the surface with the dots holding the board slightly off the wall. The wall will eventually dry out and return to equilibrium with its surroundings.
Hi Simon , just a quick question really basically I have standing water under my sub floor same with all cottages in the area however mine has no ventilation what so ever and the only possible way to put air bricks in would be to break the back yard up as the concrete is higher than the dpc. Is there a better way to sort this , cheers
Hi Sam I have got the Rods I need to know what the 2 different spot bondings were that you used.. foam and a cream Can anyone tell me which ones Sam used here..
it’s a great idea? as there is more profit?, what’s about the customer any saving for them? , you didn’t even mention the customer , it’s was all about this system,which didn’t even look right to me , damp and regular plaster board , I don’t think so, you need to find the cause , before you can rectify the problem, I would have grave concerns with any of this type of work …..
Hi Andrew, thanks for your comments, It's understandable that you may have concerns as most people don't know how dampness affects walls and how different types of dampness require different systems to be installed. I'm sure you are familiar with DryZone cream by Safeguard Europe, that's the siloxane-based cream that every company that makes Dampproofing products have copied. These creams. have replaced the retrofit high and low-pressure systems that were injected into bricks after years of research showed that rising damp will take its easiest path and this tends to be via the capillaries of the mortar bed. This is the same company that invented the system i am installing in the video. They didn't just come up with it after a few beers down the pub, like the creams this took years of research and had to be BBA 3rd party tested to make sure it does what they and i say it does. The reason i do the videos is to point people in the right direction and its uses for non plasterers is immense because of its simplicity. This system can be the first foot on the ladder to the lucrative preservation industry for plasterers when they study it and see its not that complicated. I don't mention the customer in this video because its not aimed at customers. from my experience, a customer wants less mess, speed of work and ultimately a drywall and being able to paint it and get back to normal quicker. this system gives them all this and more so its a win-win. If you follow the channel you will know that i am a PCA CSRT qualified Damp Specialist surveyor and also a CSSW waterproofing surveyor so to think we just rocked up at the customer's house without diagnosing and quoting for the job is a bit naive. It would be interesting to know what qualifies you to dismiss this market-leading system so if your im my neck of the wood please feel free to contact me and happily sit and have a coffee with you and tell you more about damp. if you want to hear more listen to The Damp Show Podcast on your podcast provider its out every week. Have a great weekend
Camera almost upside down at start. Guy’s accent is undecipherable for anyone who lives one village away. Background talk radio destroys already bad sound quality. No reference info on materials in description. Trying to think of a way to make it worse but all ideas have been implemented.
are you kidding me the moisture vapour from the wall will continue to evaporate and make the plasterboard wet and it dont look like you have removed the old wall plaster high enough
This is a bold statement from someone who has gone to the trouble of making up a fake profile 2 months ago. Even do if you want to explain why you think it’s outrageous I’m more than willing to listen 👂
Not a fake profile, I dont use RUclips and the system you’re using is not the right method, you’ll eventually get a comeback. Stick to the cavity wall membrane and you won’t go wrong, used it for 10 years now and never had a problem.
@@jordanmorley2060 just to let you know as you seem to have little knowledge of damp systems. Safeguard Europe who invented Dryzone creame that you probably use , which was the fore runner of all the siloxane based creams on the market brought out in 2000 are the inventors of the system we use, Iv added the instastik. They invented the drygrip and dry shield salt neutraliser. Not knowing this just shows your ignorance of our industry. I’m all for comments on here but when they are non constructive and dismissive without any research it can be a bit trying.
To start you shouldn’t be using a grey gyproc board onto old perished brick, especially sticking it on with a silicone adhesive where it’s only got a certain lifespan, also you’re using expanding foam to apply the board.
@@jordanmorley2060 wow, thanks for the comments, so with the limited life span of gyproc Plasterboards you mention I suspect every property in the country all 25 million are at risk then given your ill informed information. I don’t think I need to say anything else as anyone with an ounce of intelligence will see the gaff you just made.
Alright mate just after some advice I've got damp patch on my new extension wall we're it's a cavity wall but the ground outside is built up with hardcore and then Indian stone how do I stop the damp thinking knock off plasterboard then k11 tanking an redo board an skim will this work
Hi Gavin, If it’s lateral dampness due to the raised ground level outside a waterproof system would work if installed correctly. Without seeing the job it’s hard to give solid advice on the wall.
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Is it possible to be any more Yorkshire? 😂 love it
Could you wait for area to dry out before reboarding? Could the brickwork dry out and cause damp behind boards?
You Could wait but you don’t need to
Hi, watched a few vids now and I know you use acrylic and foam to fix the boards, l know the foam grabs quick and let's you move on while the acrylic sets. Where I'm a bit confused is does the foam not spoil the effect of the acrylic, I imagine it doesn't because you would stop using it, but then why not just use the foam to fix. What's the benefit of both.
Hi, thanks for watching, when the foam dots are first put on the board they are so flimsy that the board would just touch the wall if you applied it straight away. With the drygrip dot in place too you can feel when you ease the board to the wall,
Also as the drygrip dots are around the same size the board is against the wall pretty even meaning if the wall is plumb the boards are not far off straight too.
When set the drygrip has a mega strong bond with the masonry about 10 times stronger than the instastik.
Iv used drygrip to stick all sorts of things and materials
@@dampsam Cheers, makes sense
@@dampsamSo do you use Instastix and Drygrip (from Safeguard) to stick the regular standard plasterboard. What are your thoughts on using Hardy or Elememt board instead?
Hi thanks for this video. I watched it a few times but still unsure why you need the vertical injections? Is it because you are only doing one wall and not the whole room?
It standard practice for isolating walls
Damp proofing injection does not work. You need to find the cause (probably a small leak somewhere) and stop it. If that's not possible you need to leave the brick out in the open and have good ventilation or add a breathable lime plaster and have good ventilation
I agree that each damp issue has to be diagnosed and not all damp is rising. Lime plasters can work in the right situation but not every one, they are expensive too and not accessible to all. Poorer people have a right to live damp free and this is why cheaper faster systems were brought to market.
U can also have more than one issue. In our 30s semi, in kitchen, when first moved in damp, mould appeared. After investigation by me, I cut the back out of low cupboard under sink, but it was slightly further over from sink pipes was an old pipe sticking upright that had been capped but was very slightly leaking. Not enough to flood but did make very damp behind cupboard. Fixed it all pleased with myself in the hope that was that. Still got damp possibly from a concrete slab added at back door under kitchen window. Eventually I cut channel in it so it wasn't connected to the wall of house above the ground level. Still to finish that job. But also condensation is quite common. Any steam hits the gable end wall and ends up dripping down wall, if don't have extractor fan on and window open. It soon drys, but winter it takes a bit longer, and can be tough opening window when freezing. Watch out for drying clothes too. Especially on radiator. Really u need window open too, so the moisture can escape. I've seen it a lot. Tons of washing drying, windows closed causing bad mould growth.
Its best not to use plasterboard but instead use the light weight tiling boards. I have done this on a very cold/ damp external Victoria property and its been over 5 years with no damp patches or black old growth!!
I used them in an outside toilet
but can you skim over those tiling boards?
Thanks for your videos. I've been told not to plaster onto skirting or architrave. Is this only when it's unpainted? Is there a risk of deforming with a same day skirting refit?
Thanks
I’d need to know more about specific jobs but iv never had an issue on normal timber but green oak will go black and spoil
Not a clue wally, no understanding of Building Sceince. Plenty bull talk, none of your systems will work, short term expensive works that are inadequate and will not solve the underline problem.
I can tell from your use of the English language you truly are educated to the highest standard in the mould of Hawkins.
Our record speaks for itself, we don’t get issues with the systems we install.
Have a great day Trollin with your made up profile, 😂
The building science bit cracked me up 😂
@@dampsamWell said. Too many tossers out and about trying to disrepute people for no good reason.
@@TomMostonnot to mention the underline problem as well.
Would you still use this now after isotherm came out or isotherm replaced this?
there is a time and place for all the systems you just need to choose which one for which system.
How far in do you know how to drill? Also, is it better to do it from the outside or do it from the inside?
You follow manufacturer instructions
on an external wall is it best to use the damp proof rods on the inside or the outside?
Either as long as it’s done in accordance with manufacturer instructions
Im the most simplest terms your just covering up a problem? Or is the last option before home owner sells?
You would need to go on safeguards website and find out I can only explain so much and I don’t have time to try convince people the system works anymore. I’m not selling it I’m showing people it
Hiya Sam, Im just wondering if a salt neutraliser and salt neutralising plaster are both used/needed?
It would depend on what type of damp your treating I suppose
Hi mate, I have a penetrative damp problem from the bathroom to the bedroom wall. Basically getting through the tiles on the shower wall. Obviously got to to strip the bathroom wall tiles on that wall. What should my next step be?
Can’t say without seeing it
Will get a pic over
Considering this system for my internal wall (no cavity) that has been diagnosed as rising damp - do you see there being any advantage to installing a couple of vents along the bottom of the plasterboard/skirting to allow the wall to "breathe"? I know people keep advocating for lime plaster, but this might be a happy medium that is both quick, affordable, and allows the underlying brickwork to vent.
You would just be making holes in the wall so if you want to lose all the heat in your house that’s what will happen. Make sure your treating the correct type of dampness then use the correct system
@@dampsam yeah it's definitely rising damp - internal wall between hall and kitchen in a lower ground property, no damp proof course on the internal wall so doing DPC injections then just got a consideration about how to reapply plaster/render over the brick once treated.
Wall has a radiator on it too, I'm not sure how much heat would be lost as it's internal.
Certainly don't go with the idea he's a full on conman 💯
@@joerobinson2866 yeah this feels like hiding an issue until next person is forced to experienced it
@@joerobinson2866 so in my case a brickie came out over the course of a few weeks and removed the lower course
Great video mate just subscribed to your channel and podcasts about a month ago, playing catch up on them. I'm still learning from your videos isn't the bottom section of the wall one of the most important for damp and can't understand why the other company thought was ok to use bonding and was surprised they didn't pull the skirting off. I skimmed a few rooms myself for the first time last year and came out ok even a plasterer said that when had a look, I've gotta admit found plastering the most strenuous of the work done on house especially ceilings. Keep up the god work
Thankyou 🙏
Interesting method ive not seen used before, generally I would sbr the wall first slurry the wall a few times once tack on SBR coat, then sbr the dry slurry and render the slurry with sbr render, I never use a injection systems they are all useless, if your render is thin enough then I suppose it would be good to then do this onto the render and use either a insulated board or green board, what is the acrylic you are using and is the foam a pu type?
It’s called Drygrip by Safeguard John
Alright mate just after some advice I've got damp patch on my new extension wall we're it's a cavity wall but the ground outside is built up with hardcore and then Indian stone how do I stop the damp thinking knock off plasterboard then k11 tanking an redo board an skim will this work
Would you inject to solve damp, or use slurry, sbr, and gear for salts, then render ??? Ive seen injection fail a few times.
Sovereign show a how to, just rendering and slurry coat with K11. Have you seen that work , without injection?
There is no need to use a waterproof slurry above ground unless it’s to neutralise salts or to stop latteral dampness
Hi sam , im looking to use this system and wondering what i use for adhesive to the wall , is it a grab adhesive?
It’s called Drygrip that comes with this system
@@dampsam only stuff I can find is sticky expanding foam man
What if there is not enough height to set board into the area needed? (If the board sticks out much further than existing wall)?
You buy the board to suit the thickness
Cheers for the reply but what if there isn’t a board thin enough?
We are currently using the coucil system inject and dry coat what is your opinion on this system mate .
Iv never used Dri Coat but if it’s in accordance with BS6576 it would be acceptable
Good job we are doing that for the last 5 years good fast job we use insulation board also
Nice one Liam
So how many period historic homes you done this to then?
How do u go about getting the training for this damp proofing Sam
I’m on with doing a course online keep yer eyes peeled for out landing page
Could you not just use the insta stik or would damp strike through that then into the plaster board etc??
You could have a go but it would be hard, Iv tried using both separately and I find using both is better for larger boards, just the drygrip is good for small boards.
Why do you use that grip and not board adhesive apart from saving time?
Board Adhesive reacts with salts and damp, Drygrip is specially made for this system and is waterproof
If you use board adhesive, it will mould and salts will come through if it has not been treated with safeguard salt neutralising cream and or dry rods installed if the house was built before 1859 (when slate damp course was first used), there will be no slate DPC, so you will have the same issue over and over.
can you do all injecting from inside? or do you need to inject external walls from outside. thanks fella
You can do either, you just need to know the wall thickness and have a long enough drill bit
Hi, my damp wall has a massive amount of plaser on it, 50mm could i "Layer" boards using dot and dab to achieve thickness or do you have another suggestion
It depends on what type of dampness has been affecting the wall previously
Hi simon I would like some advice my daughter house, has a cold spot in corner of one her bedrooms it feels damp and there’s some mould starting.I have been up in the loft over into the corner were the damp is but it is dry there about 100 mil insulation ,but my daughter house is a semi that corner is were the devideing wall meets the exterior wall ,I would like to here your thoughts on this problem and the benefit of your experience.
Hi james, without seeing any picture it’s hard, but check for leaking gutters or rainwater hitting the wall outside and inside I’d check the ventilation is adequate with the cooker hood vented externally and a continuously running low carbon fan in the bathroom for a start.
@@dampsamSorry to jump in on your chat but l had a similar situation in my bedroom on the chimney breast. Around 1 Sqm of the wall felt damp so l investigated directly above in the loft and even removed some of the brickwork to gain access to the inside of the chimney. On inspection it was dusty and dry inside….🤨 I decided to remove the section of plaster down to brick and discovered the plaster was sound and dry so my plan involved foaming a piece of foil backed plasterboard to the brickwork then skimmed the entire chimney breast and once dry re painted the wall. That was 3 yrs ago and no more issues with the damp. I came to the conclusion it was condensation forming in that area due to a cold spot caused by the cold air inside the chimney stack and warm air from inside the house.
What a great video cheers can I pick your brains what kind of foam is it your using and what have you drilled into the wall iv just tanked my wall and the water running down the tanking is unreal ant help would be great
Hi thanks for watching. Is the wall below ground? I’m wondering because that would be the only reason it should be tanked ( waterproofed). I don’t think water will be coming out of the wall. What tends to happen is condensation will form on the material and if it’s waterproof and cold then unless the ventilation is adequate it will act like a dehumidifier and run down pooling in the bottom.
Always diagnose the type of damp correctly so the correct system can be used. Not all damp is rising.
@@dampsam thanks for the reply no the wall is above ground do you think I should knock the tanking off and just use the stick instead to stop the damp cheers for your reply again very helpful
Sorry to ask again what was the adhesive you put the boards on with great way to do it would like to try it cheers
@@patrickgilmour9826 it’s called Drygrip and can be bought off Amazon,, you need an applicator to use the cartridges
@@dampsam thank you it just seems an better and less messy way to do it is the foam just a standard foam to
Hi, I wonder how much will cost for the job like this please ?
Each job is different and prices varie
Hi Sam
We have rising damp around fireplace and going onto walls . Had cream injected 2 years ago. Plaster was not removed. We repainted after 6 wks . Damp still comes through badly. Using your system does it not eventually come through plaster board ?
Hi, if our system is installed correctly and the correct type of damp is diagnose
I need this doing for my living room, are you local to burnley area?
We’re in Barnsley but do paid surveys over where you are
@@dampsam good to know! I've been quoted 2k for my living room including dpc and gypsum bonding and boarding but everything I've read says not to use bonding so I'm a little dubious!
What typ of salt neutralizer do you use sam thanks
Dry Shield Cream from Safeguard
@@dampsam thanks
Brilliant video mate it's always good to know all the damp systems 👍
Unfortunately these “damp systems” just aren’t needed they’re never needed
Hi. Am I ok to ask a question? I have just bought a small mid terrace which has rising damp and because it has been empty for some time, also problems with condensation. The floors have carpet laid on top of tiles which we think are on top of solid ground with a layer of ash or similar below: no modern foundations. Would you advise doing anything to the floors as well or will it be enough to damp proof the walls? Thanks.
The first thing I would advise is to get a competent qualified damp surveyor to diagnose all the different types of damp affecting the property. It’s very rare it will all be actual rising damp so you need to know which is which so the right system can be installed as a fix.
Thank you so much for your advice. Will do.
What salt neutraliser do you use mate??
Drysheild from safeguard europe
@@dampsam nice 1 buddy il give this a go. Keep up them videos absolutely brilliant mate
Hi Sam, great video of your work. Keep the vids coming
Matt Walker thank you 🙏
What foam are you using there
Instastik probably
Hi Sam, when installing dry rods in old property, whats the best course of action if mortar is old and crumbly and maybe has gaps in it? Also if you have access to basement that runs under the entire property, can the DPC be installed there - just above the old failed slate dpc?
Deepak Bhari alway install any dpc on the first joint above floor level. The rods only start to work when they come in contact with moisture so as long as they are inserted at the correct spacing they can go in any type of mortar course.
Thanks for sharing will be using that! God bless you.
Nice one that’s Awsome
is the plaster board you use just ordinary bog standard board?
Yes just ordinary plasterboard.
Great video going to use your method to help me out just one question will it stick to insulation board and would you put board on vertical or horizontal cheers sam
Yes we use them on insulated plasterboard and it’s your choice which way you fit the boards, which ever you think is easier for yourself.
@@dampsam cheers again great content
You never show you putting salt neutraliser on the wall
@@davidgilmore9997 I’ll try remember next time, it’s a simple process though
@@dampsam iv done Yr process on putting these boards on the wall only thing the 2/3 inch gap at the bottom between the board and fall there's a bit of condensation appearing on the bricks any advice before I put the skirting on cheers
That covers it up Sam but not solve the real problem I fear
Your wrong and need to learn how moisture affects walls
Do you cover Manchester?
Yes we cover Manchester for paid surveys and reports and we consider the work based on what it is.
Hi Sam, i am finding you video’s very helpful thank you. I am currently doing some work on my own home and trying to fix some damp issues. I have solid walls and have noticed that in the past someone has used some type of cement render around 1m high on all ground floor walls. I think there is issue with bridging as its been taken down to the floor (solid floors). I have been told to remove all cement and plaster and install dpc 1 brick above the solid floor, then install batten board the walls above the dpc (using celotex foam insulated board for external walls). Theres so much conflicting information online, so easy to get lost in it all. Do you think this solution is good? I was thinking to forget battens and use the dry wall method in this video. Just wish i did not have to remove the cement render as its pretty solid.
Hi lee,
It’s hard for me to comment as Iv not seen the job. I would recommend doing a postcode search on the PCA website and have a qualified surveyor look at it, make sure any issues are diagnosed correctly.
Check out Peter Ward heritage channel on here and start your education into old houses! I have and it's fascinating. Stay clear of cement based products on solid brick walls and plasterboard. You want lime.
on external solid walls where there is no cavity. is it ok to batten it out and just screw plasterboard onto it. would this be good because it stops the outside wall touching the plasterboard and allows it to dry?
In theory yes
Great video!!! I have quite alot of damp in 200 year house which is also rendered on the outside ( not sure if makes any odds!!) If I used the method but with a foil backed plaster board would that be a belt and braces job?
I try and steer away from foil backed boards , it’s to do with water vapour evaporating out of the masonry.
Check out Peter Ward heritage House videos and stay clear of plasterboard if your walls are solid brick or stone.
I have 180 yr old house
Check out pete ward & then decide
But outside cement render will have to come
Off
@Darren Leeson, did you end up using foil backed plasterboards? I've given my living room walls a damp course. Tearing my hair out deciding what type of plasterboard to use. @Simon Cooper, what negative impact would foil backed plastebaords have? I've bought some Soudal foam adhesive for plasterboards to stick the plasterboards on to the brick wall.
Jesus mate, don't go down that road! Your old house needs to breathe. You're just sealing it up for future problems. Perhaps hack a small piece of render off to see if it is cement based. If it is, I'd remove it and either lime render it or lime wash whatever is beneath the render. I'm presuming it's brick/stone. Just in the process of re-pointing our 1750's Cotswold stone cottage where some dick over the decades had repointed with sand and cement and caused shit loads of damp where the poor place can't breathe. Looking good and dry and comfortable now. Ps: Don't let any damp company tell you your walls need injecting in an old house, because they haven't a clue what they are on about when it comes to period properties. Just after your money.
how does this stop damp ..what are you injecting and how does it work..
Moisture from the ground travels up capillarys in the masonry and finds the easiest path in the mortar. The creams have ingredients in that alter the way the moisture travels and stops it rising.
Where does the moisture go then?
Good vid mate seen few of your vids now good job👍🏻
Glad you like them!
Great vid. Q. What's the name of the glue you use. Is is the same as expanding foam? Can I get it from b & q?
Drygrip from Safeguard and instastik, the drygrip and instastik can be bought on Amazon
Ruining old buildings.
Sealing in moisture thinking your sealing it out.
The old houses just need original lime based plaster and mortar.
This modern industry has no place with these old places!!
Preserving old buildings using up to date tried and tested BBA approved environmentally friendly products to save time and money for customers not stringing out work using the excuse that the work is traditional.
@@dampsam your method is like going for a walk in the rain,
Getting soaked through,
But instead of taking off wet clothes and getting dry,
You keep your wet clothes on, wrap your clothes in clingfilm and put dry ones over the top.
To the outside you look dry, but underneath your still soaked with absolutely no way of the moisture escaping and drying out as air cant get to it.
Absolutely nothing to with being environmentally friendly, that's totally irrelevant.
@@teocastelvecchi so whats the best way, if you dont mind me asking. Im cuurently about to adress rising damp in my old house. I was told the injection teqhnique is best
@@inamhassan2694 hi mate. Its something I've got quite a bit of experience with between me and my dad. Rising damp as it's called is almost always not the issue. I would have to see some photos and talk it through with you. Do you use whatsapp?
@@teocastelvecchi
I’ve got a rising damp issue in an old terraced house. I need some advice on the best solution for it. Are rods no good?
on a non-cavity wall, how deep would you drill the holes for the damp course injection typically?
You drill to within 25mm of the far edge, so measure the wall on the door reveal
@@dampsam it's a property divider wall is all...this is what the company quoting me to fix it using tanking are suggesting needs doing...all for a bit of damp to the lower left side of a chimney breast which sticks out from the wall
If i just installed the dry rods do you really have to take all the rendering off back to brickwork?
Only if the plaster is contaminate with salts causing decoration spoil and the existing plaster is salt resistant.
How do I get a qualification in damp proofing. I'm a plasterer.
Contact the Property Care Association (PCA) and do their technicians course in the first instance, then pick a supplier and go on their one day course to become a registered user, safeguard are good and have the best systems .
I have a course coming out based on the express damp system soon which will give you the first step on the ladder. If you give me your email address I will send you our details when it’s live.
What would this cost a customer to have done.
I can’t go giving prices out on here🤔
Great video Simon. I am wanting this doing but want to remove a brick fireplace at the same time. Is it better for me to take the fireplace out first and get the whole to the right size before you come, or could you do that?
The wall would need to be prepped first and if there are sulphate salts these would need isolating using a different system.
Why does the wall require a DPC if there is a basement beneath? Also salt neutraliser if there is nothing in contact with the plasterboard. The wall is potentially suffering from condensation and incorrect material use.
The cellar has earth retaining walls and there are salts in the wall hence the salt neutraliser.. hope this helps
shouldnt you let the wall rest for 5 days after you erase the plaster? so the wall can dry out lol?
You can do this but your wasting time, the wall gradually dries out through evaporation over a number of months.
The wall is not going to dry out. That is the point of this system.
Hello Simon Just bought a buy to let with rising damp on all downstairs rooms rics surveyor recommends I use all dryzone products, looked them up and there really expensive for what I need, what materials do you recommend for dpc injection and wall treatment then dot and dab for plaster board
Mick Peers without seeing the job it would be hard to say but any replastering after the installation of a dpc should be in accordance with BS6575 which means using a plaster system with a salt neutraliser of which there are many including the express replastering method.
Was planing on using dryzone dpc Rods then I usually just use tanking slurry but I’m told this doesn’t allow the brick to breath and is no good for rooms the have radiators or some form off heating,
Now bud how many meters of this system would you do in a day win a labourer if you don’t mind me asking keep up the good work 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻👍👍😃
rock&roll45 we don’t really go on meters or price per meter but you last week it took 2 days to do a full downstairs of a property with a long hallway, 2 Rooms, kitchen, under stairs cupboard, & hallway all in 8x4 plasterboards an 2 full walls, that didn’t include skimming though.
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW cheers bud
Hi guys
1: if you have damp walls there is normally an external problem as to why you have damp internally. (Check this first) ground moves over the years so it could be all you need is a shingle French drain installed outside.
2:when or if you remove the plaster internally ALWAYS let the walls dry out first 4-6 weeks with good ventilation in the room. NEVER EVER apply plasterboard to a wall wet like this. Plaster board turns to mush when damp,it will also stain the new plastering and painting eventually.
This system is so wrong and my self i go around after so called damp injection about 5-6, years later. (I have hundreds of photos to prove this) if this property was ment to have damp course a slate damp course would have been installed when the house was built in the 1800s. Wrong wrong wrong,sorry wrong.
garymarcks nice long piece you put there on our feed. Your wrong about this system but I agree if it’s fixed with dry wall adhesive it could get damp but this system is by designed by safeguard Europe . So if you have evidence of their system that has been installed correctly and failed I’m sure they would be interested.
How did the walls get damp in the first place simple question.. that you can't answer
If you watch the video Sam shows the bridging behind the skirting board with a bonding compound. This stuff sucks up moisture for fun.
@@damprotek if you listened he said at the beginning
A bridging issue
@@rikhughes6452 I was listening he said it if it needed a damn course in the 1800s it would have had one but damn courses weren't introduced until 1859 And to be honest who's going to allow a wall to dry out for 4 to 6 weeks now that wall has got nitrates in it which you would have to neutralise And then what put a breathable lime-based plaster back . What a lot of faff when in fact you could inject it with some high strength injection cream ( the reason they fell is because they use cheap ones). And also properly not installed.. And of course I'm digging down the external levels will help.. but we're here to make money bottom line and I very rarely get a job call back from what I do perhaps one a year out of hundreds..
Great video,
May I ask what products do you use & why do you use 2 products to stick the boards on instead of just using 1 ?
Also can you stick the boards with any type of waterproof adhesive ?
& why do seal around to edges, especially the bottom as I thought there should be a slight gap between the boards & the floor?
Thanks & merry Xmas to all
Hi Simon your videos really helpful for me. I've got rising damp to Treat that I'm be doing myself and I'm learning a lot from you. With this board fixing system, why are you using the two different products? Is it for cost, as the dryzone adhesive is very pricey, or another reason? Could I use just the insta stik or something like pink grip dryfix instead?
Hi Jonathan, in theory you could use the pink grip or one of the sticks like shit waterproof aheadives, I use drygrip as it is an ingredient of the safeguard system and was made to use with the salt neutraliser cream,
Dwayne Squires if you have an old solid wall house you should never 'damp proof' notice how the wall was still wet and he just sealed it in a covered it up. That water is going nowhere, and the bricks will rot.
Old houses should never be sealed. The original lime mortar and plaster allowes moisture to evaporate through it and keep it dry.
In the 70s onwards people started to point the outside bricks with cement mortar, and this started trapping moisture in. Damp started and didnt leave, then came along the 'damp industry' with all their damaging, drilling, injecting and sealing methods.
IF A WALL TAKES MONTHS TO DRY OUT, HOW CAN YOU BE DONE AND HAVE GOT RID OF THE DAMP BY 3pm 🤔🤨
Quick question if you dont mind. Im damp proofing a wall exactly like this walls in lounge then behind it is steps going down to celler and then steps going upstairs. Question i have is does damp only show on one side of a wall as the lounge wall is really bad but yet I go to the otherside where the steps are going up to bedrooms and that side of the wall doesn't have any damp showing. Its only a single skin brick wall. Im trying to not disturb the staircase wall if I can help it but dont want to cause issues further down the road.
I would say that water will find its easiest route, it may depend on what plaster is on the other side, it may just be easier for the moisture to evaporate out of the wall and leave ground salt on the worst side.
It could also be a different issue than rising damp so always have it checked be a relevantly qualified competent person.
Dwayne Squires. This doesnt get rid of damp. Sealing the house with cement render or even just pointing along with these methods are the leading cause of trapping damp. if you have an old solid wall house you should never 'damp proof' notice how the wall was still wet and he just sealed it in a covered it up. That water is going nowhere, and the bricks will rot.
Old houses should never be sealed. The original lime mortar and plaster allowes moisture to evaporate through it and keep it dry.
In the 70s onwards people started to point the outside bricks with cement mortar, and this started trapping moisture in. Damp started and didnt leave, then came along the 'damp industry' with all their damaging, drilling, injecting and sealing methods.
IF A WALL TAKES MONTHS TO DRY OUT, HOW CAN YOU BE DONE AND HAVE GOT RID OF THE DAMP BY 3pm 🤔🤨
I've taken all the damaged plaster off the wall, then sprayed it with salt neutraliser, efflorescence (white salt) deposits have come back through, should I continue with your method of sticking the plaster board on the wall, do I just rub the salt off and continue or spray it again with neutraliser?
You do need to brush the salts and debris off the wall to prep the surface. I’m not familiar with your job or the products your using, make sure you follow the instruction for applying any treatments.
Hi Simon great video I have watched a few of them do you cover the Leeds area ? As I need some work doing on my property
Yes we cover Leeds for paid surveys and some work depending on what it is and how busy we are, we only take on one job per week as it’s a bespoke service with me doing it with my lads. Best thing to do is to send pictures, videos and a description with your name and address to our WhatsApp channel 07973748566 so we can see what’s needed.
Boards are breeched at horizontal level vertical injection too far away from door frame and I spend a lot of time stripping this shit off and membrane the area cheers
Ok I’ll nip back n re do it just cause you watch the video 🤫
Hi Simon, wanted to ask once you put in the dry zone rod in the holes in the internal wall. Do you just plaster the wall or you put a sealent on the holes and across the line of the holes? Let me know appreciated. Cheers
Immy.f the holes are just left open
@@dampsam thank Simon for information
Hi Simon I sent you a message before, Would it be better to put in the damp cream & rod lower of the floor board as I have access under the floorboard because I could do the cream and the rod together so I have double barrier?
Hi you shouldn’t need a double barrier , it all depends on the external ground level and solid internal floor level as to where the dpc is installed. Without actually seeing it I can’t comment other than say we always go with the first course accessible mortar line above the floor level as a rule of thumb.
Quick question would it work if I first used a mapei tanking paint on the back of the board and then used a tile backer board instead of plasterboard when doing a job like this (eg q board or abacus 6/10/20mm)? Reason I ask is it won’t rot it won’t wick or hold moisture and it can be skimmed plus I have some of each spare from tiling my bathroom.I’ve dealt with the sources of damp but wall condensates badly and this board also insulates.would it work do you think?
If your doing a job where two houses are affected do you need access to both or just your clients.
Hi Sam do you use normal plasterboard or a damp resistant one
Yes just normal 9.5mm or 12.5mm
You cant plasterboard over a damp wall. I have done it and doesn't work and it will either travel about the plasterboard or come through it. Have a look at the PCA guide lines. The dpc cream can take up to six weeks to cure and the brickwork has to dry as long as possible before re-plastering. I have even used a builders drier to dry the brickwork out before re-plastering. Still cant beat sand and cement render with a salt neutraliser.
Oh david stop making yourself look daft lad, yes waterproof render is good but can cold bridge on a solid wall.
Walls can take up to 12 months to dry out after the installation of a dpc depending of how wet they are and other factors you will know I assume.
I’m guessing you used dry wall to stick your plasterboard on the wall and it kind of builds a picture of you. Sounds like you had a failure and what ever you tried was wrong. This is because you have not learned how to do things right and you don’t know how moisture affects walls of building..
I all for constructive comments so if your stuck on anything just ask.
@@dampsam Dry lining walls isn't a good idea it doesn't matter what you say do you research. I have dry lined walls in the past and have never used the dot and dap method which is s recipe for disaster, the damp transfers through the daps. I have tacked the board with clout nails which leaves a sight gap so the plasterboard isn't touching the walls. I would prefer to hack off higher and use the Newton membrane 1.5 metres high and than dot and dap plasterboard this works.
@@davidellis5964 well what ever works for you, there are lots of systems out there and done right they should work. Iv never herd of clout nails used in the system though.
Thanks for all the "added value" videos this year....Simon. Have a good'un.
Also will you please thank your assistant....who just seems to get on with stuff and never tries to steal your limelight in front of the camera...ha..
I think our assistants do a great job and get very little credit....the un-sung heros.
ningis21 will do 👍
Sorry I forgot to ask, why do you need salt neutraliser, when the boards don’t touch the wall ?
Thanks.
Ok let me tell you what I have Back b/room excessive damp due to builder dig up by the rear wall and to the age of the property excessive of water getting under wall because in the northeast excessive near the coast. (excessive rain fall) so I fitted extra air brick and will sort out gully by rear wall. Front of Bungalow, after house was built fully someone decided they want a bay but in, so some one put a bay in with cavity walls and did not put any damp course in the wall and now i have moved the radiator it is more obvious with the damp in the internal wall. these old building with 0.3mtr of foundation problem. that why I want to double up. Thank you for getting back to me
Glen
Hi glen, my point was that if it’s installed correctly the damp proof course will work, if you use the damp check rods there will be the correct amount in each rod so if you follow safeguards instruction the barrier will be adequate and it will save you money buy just doing it the one time. We see it all the time on jobs where plasterer use waterproofing systems (tanking) to do dampproofing because they are not confident in what is needed and it’s over the top and can create other issues with condensation and cold thermal bridging.
brilliant job Simon
Kola Mthuk thank you 🙏
Great video Sam. What areas in the UK do you cover? I have a property in Coventry which requires Damp proofing.
Dwayne Squires we are in South Yorkshire your a bit out of our range. If you need any advice I’m just an email away. 👍
Simon Cooper HNC CSRT CSSW thanks for getting back to me Simon. Yes would love advice/guidance. Please can you let me know your email address and I’ll share the project I would like your help with.
@@dwaynesquires if you have an old solid wall house you should never 'damp proof' notice how the wall was still wet and he just sealed it in a covered it up. That water is going nowhere, and the bricks will rot.
Old houses should never be sealed. The original lime mortar and plaster allowes moisture to evaporate through it and keep it dry.
In the 70s onwards people started to point the outside bricks with cement mortar, and this started trapping moisture in. Damp started and didnt leave, then came along the 'damp industry' with all their damaging, drilling, injecting and sealing methods.
IF A WALL TAKES MONTHS TO DRY OUT, HOW CAN YOU BE DONE AND HAVE GOT RID OF THE DAMP BY 3pm 🤔🤨
What materials are you using please? The glue and the other one.
The glue is called Drygrip made by safeguard Europe, the foam glue is called instastik
Hi mate.
Using this system if there is rising damp/low level dampness (brickwork looks quite wet here) using your method how do you deal with humidity levels behind the plasterboard?
Dodge O hi thanks for watching, the reason the brickwork looks wet is because we put salt neutralising cream on which is part of the system.
As far as ingress and humidity is concerned the wall will start to dry out once the dpc has been installed from that point forward and moisture will evaporate as air is allowed to flow across the surface with the dots holding the board slightly off the wall. The wall will eventually dry out and return to equilibrium with its surroundings.
Hi Simon , just a quick question really basically I have standing water under my sub floor same with all cottages in the area however mine has no ventilation what so ever and the only possible way to put air bricks in would be to break the back yard up as the concrete is higher than the dpc. Is there a better way to sort this , cheers
It’s hard without all the info on the construction but if the subfloor can be accessed you could have a drainage system installed with a sump & pump.
Top video Sam
Should at least use foil back moisture board that will go moldy behind
Thanks for your input but no it won’t , look up how water vapour passes through materials and you will see why.
Hi mate what is adhesive you are using to dab boards on
It’s called Drygrip adhesive from Safeguard Europe and can be bought on Amazon
@@dampsam Do you have to use the Drygrip adhesive? Could you not just use the Insta Stick foam on it’s own?Cheers
Hi Sam I have got the Rods I need to know what the 2 different spot bondings were that you used.. foam and a cream Can anyone tell me which ones Sam used here..
Norman Longstaff hi it’s a product called Drygrip you can buy it on Amazon
Hi pal. Can you use everbuild stixall, rather than drydrip adhsive???
I’m not familiar with the Everbuild product but Drygrip is specially made for this system.
I do like an "andeld" video.
Hi, Iv answered your question on the latest live video i have recorded
it’s a great idea? as there is more profit?, what’s about the customer any saving for them? , you didn’t even mention the customer , it’s was all about this system,which didn’t even look right to me , damp and regular plaster board , I don’t think so, you need to find the cause , before you can rectify the problem, I would have grave concerns with any of this type of work …..
Hi Andrew, thanks for your comments, It's understandable that you may have concerns as most people don't know how dampness affects walls and how different types of dampness require different systems to be installed. I'm sure you are familiar with DryZone cream by Safeguard Europe, that's the siloxane-based cream that every company that makes Dampproofing products have copied. These creams. have replaced the retrofit high and low-pressure systems that were injected into bricks after years of research showed that rising damp will take its easiest path and this tends to be via the capillaries of the mortar bed. This is the same company that invented the system i am installing in the video. They didn't just come up with it after a few beers down the pub, like the creams this took years of research and had to be BBA 3rd party tested to make sure it does what they and i say it does. The reason i do the videos is to point people in the right direction and its uses for non plasterers is immense because of its simplicity. This system can be the first foot on the ladder to the lucrative preservation industry for plasterers when they study it and see its not that complicated.
I don't mention the customer in this video because its not aimed at customers. from my experience, a customer wants less mess, speed of work and ultimately a drywall and being able to paint it and get back to normal quicker. this system gives them all this and more so its a win-win.
If you follow the channel you will know that i am a PCA CSRT qualified Damp Specialist surveyor and also a CSSW waterproofing surveyor so to think we just rocked up at the customer's house without diagnosing and quoting for the job is a bit naive. It would be interesting to know what qualifies you to dismiss this market-leading system so if your im my neck of the wood please feel free to contact me and happily sit and have a coffee with you and tell you more about damp. if you want to hear more listen to The Damp Show Podcast on your podcast provider its out every week. Have a great weekend
I would like to know if anyone outside of yorkshire and derbyshire can understand you. I bet the americans are totally lost.
Hi, Iv answered your question on the latest live video i have recorded
Hi mate couldn't you of just used the dry rods
Mark O'Leary yes but they are more expensive than the creams
Camera almost upside down at start. Guy’s accent is undecipherable for anyone who lives one village away. Background talk radio destroys already bad sound quality. No reference info on materials in description. Trying to think of a way to make it worse but all ideas have been implemented.
Yeh it was an old phone I did it on, hopefully the vids I do now are a bit better.
are you kidding me the moisture vapour from the wall will continue to evaporate and make the plasterboard wet and it dont look like you have removed the old wall plaster high enough
No it won’t and yes we have , thanks for watching 👍
isotherm is better than this.
oh dear oh dear, watch Peter Ward videos on youtube not this rubbish
Yes Peter who doesn’t allow you to comment on his vids, I wonder why?
Waste of time and money doing this
You sound like you have had a bad experience with damp. I can assure you when we do any work, it works and is guaranteed
This is outrageous, not the way to dampproof
This is a bold statement from someone who has gone to the trouble of making up a fake profile 2 months ago. Even do if you want to explain why you think it’s outrageous I’m more than willing to listen 👂
Not a fake profile, I dont use RUclips and the system you’re using is not the right method, you’ll eventually get a comeback. Stick to the cavity wall membrane and you won’t go wrong, used it for 10 years now and never had a problem.
@@jordanmorley2060 just to let you know as you seem to have little knowledge of damp systems. Safeguard Europe who invented Dryzone creame that you probably use , which was the fore runner of all the siloxane based creams on the market brought out in 2000 are the inventors of the system we use, Iv added the instastik. They invented the drygrip and dry shield salt neutraliser.
Not knowing this just shows your ignorance of our industry. I’m all for comments on here but when they are non constructive and dismissive without any research it can be a bit trying.
To start you shouldn’t be using a grey gyproc board onto old perished brick, especially sticking it on with a silicone adhesive where it’s only got a certain lifespan, also you’re using expanding foam to apply the board.
@@jordanmorley2060 wow, thanks for the comments, so with the limited life span of gyproc Plasterboards you mention I suspect every property in the country all 25 million are at risk then given your ill informed information. I don’t think I need to say anything else as anyone with an ounce of intelligence will see the gaff you just made.
Alright mate just after some advice I've got damp patch on my new extension wall we're it's a cavity wall but the ground outside is built up with hardcore and then Indian stone how do I stop the damp thinking knock off plasterboard then k11 tanking an redo board an skim will this work
Hi Gavin,
If it’s lateral dampness due to the raised ground level outside a waterproof system would work if installed correctly. Without seeing the job it’s hard to give solid advice on the wall.
Ye I know what you mean I'm a plasterer an I know its hard to give advice without seeing it would k11 work or ka slurry
Thanks again for your advice keep the vids coming to as I learn a lot from them which is handy in my trade
isotherm is better than this.