This is the first video on how to rebuild , tune and understand the weber DCOE carburettor. I am explaining the operation and main principles of the DCOE
Your videos on Webers are the best. Slow and concise. Just what we need. I'm installing 4 DOCE's on my Chevy big block and no one to help explain anything. I'm sure I will be coming back for more views....Thank You.
@@D3Sshooter I have a pair of Weber 40 DCOE carbs on a 1960 Mercedes-Benz 190SL. The car is reluctant to start from a cold start after sitting even for a day or two. Priming it with fuel through the air intake allows it to start immediately and it runs just fine after that. I don't want to burn out my starter trying to crank from a cold start. Any suggestions on what adjustments may be needed? The fuel pump is fine and the hand primer lever gets fuel to the carbs.
@@troyroberts8568 , What I read seems not to be a cold start issue, but more a time/fuel issue. It almost sounds like your fuel chamber runs empty or low when the car sits for a while. There are several possible reason for that, first a fuel chamber leak and fuel escapes , but I guess you have no fuel leaks spotted, second the fuel evaporated due to heat build up and or flooding when the engine stopped. Have a look and test the car with a warm motor, stop and wait a few minutes ( 5) then start... if its hard to start you might have flooding issue... check your float level first. Third, your cold start circuit might be clogged as it starts with priming fuel through the airfilter. Does it run good after it started on idle ? In each case start with the float level check, then check the fuel pump pressure and volume..... Might be difficult with a mechanical pump as it is needed to run the engine so you need a T piece for you meter. Here is what I would do: disconnect the fuel line on the carb. connect a fuel bottle or canister to the carb and hang it up high ( higher then the carb) and let gravity do its thing by filling up the carb. Let the car sit a few days, then start it in that configuration. If its starts and the fuel level in the bottle did not change over the days then its not a carb issue but a fuel supply issue. Best then to replace the fuel pump with an electrical version. If the fuel level went down before you started , then you have an issue with the carb itself , maybe the needle valve, the float etc... and that should be checked. If it does not start, check your idle circuit . Another check is to pump the gas pedal a few times rapid before starting and while doing so have someone look inside the carb and check that fuel is squirted in.... Then start ( that should work) ... If you did not see the fuel been been squirted in then you have a fuel level issue or acceleration pump membrane issue... Does the car accelerate fine when driven ?
@@D3Sshooter In full disclosure, I'm not the one working on the carbs. The mechanic that restored the car had cleaned the jets and done everything except put them in a parts cleaner. He said the car runs great and idles fine after starting it with some starting fluid or fuel manually put in the intake. The car will hot start after a short time, but if it sits for hours or more, it will not start at all. There are no noticeable leaks and no fuel on the garage floor indicating a leak.I'm not sure he has driven the car after starting it or is just trying to make sure it starts in all cases. When I gave the car to him, I did notice a small metal ball about the size of a BB that was very similar to the ball in your video used with the weights next to the accelerator pump. This ball was outside of the carb and sitting on top near the wing nut that holds the top cover on. I assume this ball and weight act like a check valve. If the ball was missing, would this allow fuel to backflow and empty the chamber causing it to be hard to start?
I love your measured delivery and clear descriptions. An excellent teacher and thanks for demystifying engines and giving me insight to see what I can do myself and what I'd best leave to others. Thank you
Steve, like everyone else I think you do an excellent job explaining the Weber DCOE carbs. I just purchased a Caterham 7 wiith a Ford Cosworth 1600 BDA engine. It needs carburettor tuning and I have been worried about doing it. After watching your videos I feel a lot more confident going into this project. You are doing great videos, keep up the good work.
The most amazing video! Your descriptions and close-up detail shots make this carburetor-for-dummies! If only every car repair video was this well made.
Thank you Steve... Just like that, I realise my two Webers don't actually have a little box of magic hiding inside! - Perfectly to the point, and incredibly helpful video! Looking forward to your next installment! Thanks Again!
Sir, thank you for this video! 🙏 I now understand my DCOEs more. They still feel like black magic, but I understand considerably more how to get my old car running again. A thousand thank yous again!
@@D3Sshooter i subscribed for old rusty, rust repairs.. but have enjoyed all your videos and now a lot more confident if i end up with twin dcoe on My engine (isuzu G200Z in Holden Gemini, of Australia)
Simply the best. De-mystifies Webers better than anything in print. Just excellent. Ready to play with the 45 on my new-to-me vintage racing MGB. Thanks very much Steve.
What a great teacher you make ! In those times of lockdown, i'm watching all your videos in hope of buying my car and be able to fix everything myself. Thanks for helping my dream come true :)
Wow, most excellent! You've done a fabulous job linking the theory of operation to visual examples. It's been over 3 decades since I last installed and tuned a Weber DGV 32/36 on my old MGB, so your video acts as a refresher (the internet and RUclips didn't exist back then). I'm looking at installing a 34ICH on my Ford V4 in my vintage snowcat. Now I need to watch hours of your other videos!
Great video Can't wait for part 2. Best explanation I have ever seen. Been screwing around with my Webers this helps so much. No manual I ever read does such a good job
I have been using Weber DCOE carbs for 40 years. And DGV’s before that. I have been rebuilding them for a long time as well. But I could never get the knack of tuning them. I have a friend who has the “magic” ear for tuning Webers. Your video has been the 1st I have seen the explains them as well as you do. Thank you.
I just bought a 1972 240Z with 3 DCOE 40 carbs. I'm leaning everything I can about tuning them since I've never had them before. Thank you for your video, I enjoyed it and learned many things.
This is a superb explanation. I have used part 2 already to dismantle my DCOE with the computer on the bench and have not watched part 1 3 or 4 times to remember all the systems. Thanks so much!
I've just bought a 1959 Giulietta Sprint with dual Weber 40 DCOEs, and this has been the first time I've understood what's going on in them. Really clear. Over the next few months I'll try to fix an issue with a lag in acceleration from idle. After I watch all these videos a number of times I may try to inspect to see if the jets are all correct for the car, and if the acceleration pumps are working well. Thanks!
Thank you so much for explaining Weber DCOE carburetors. I have a ‘73 Triumph TR6, having reliable power problems which I suspect are due to my 50 year old Stromberg carburetors. I’m considering changing them out to Weber downdraft carburetors, +/- $1300 U.S. before labor, or Weber DCOE sidedraft carburetors, +/- $3,000 U.S., before labor. I’m in the U.S., where carburetors were fitted rather than fuel (petrol) injected for emissions reasons. No need to worry about emissions now as the car is so old the government doesn’t check for emissions anymore. I’ll tinker with the Strombergs some more before probably considering the downdraft Webers for budget reasons.
From now on I call you "the demistyfier", because of your skills to explain loud and clear techniques that looks as a mistery to so many! This is a huge thumb up!!! By listening to your explanation on the Weber40, it was also a nostalgic moment for me as with friends in our younger years, we raced an Alfa GTA 2 litres, equipped with those carburators. (VAS or Vlaamse Auto Sportfederatie) I also would appreciate an episode on your point of view on the actual Covid-19 crisis. I listened very well to your explanation on the difference between religion and the institute behind it! It impressed me. I like to learn what is your analysis on what is happening know. Thanks in advance.
Thank you for a good tutorial. I did not know much about Weber type carburettors, mainly because back in the day before we could become familiar with any carburettor in general, the auto industry switched to fuel injection.
Excellent tutorial. I’ve just recently purchased an MG with a 45DCOE fitted, so needed a lesson in how these work. I’ve looked at the Haynes manual for Weber’s, but have found your video much easier to digest. Thank you!
@@D3Sshooter you're welcome, can't wait to se a video of you tuning and trim a pair of 40 Solex, Weber or my fav. Dell'orto, on engine. possibly on an Alfa Romeo )))))
Very grateful for the fact that you are taking the time to share these tutorials with us, they are both very instructional and interesting. Earlier today a learned about the functioning of the clutch, and now I'm starting to learn about the carburettor. What more can I ask for?
This is a fantastic explanation of the circuits in a carburettor, so good that it made me wish I could show it to my much younger self rebuilding carburettors on my poorly running cars. I got them working but really didn't understand fully how they worked and believe that I could have done a much better job.
@@D3Sshooter but you missed the double P and Z, in fact it's DOPPIO CORPO ORIZZONTALE, be careful with double letters in italian as many times they change meaning. For example: 1.CAPELLO means HAIR - CAPPELLO is the HAT 2. ROSA is the flower ROSE and the colour - ROSSA means the colour RED (adjective feminine, masculine is ROSSO) 3. LOTTO can be the LOT, a SITE, the STATE LOTTERY - LOTO is the flower LOTUS and so on...
Great videos. I was stumped on my weber with the choke area. Thanks for explaining this. 87 samurai sat for a few months and now it wont start. Im atempting to perform a tune up on it.
Thank you for the thorough approach to this topic. Although carburetors vary, the basic principles and functions can be identified in most, so this tutorial also served as a basic introduction to the mechanical fuel delivery system in it's own right. Webers were originally on my mind for their current supply of spares, gaskets and customizable parts, unlike my current Mikuni carburetor which hardly has any spare parts available for it in my region. I use my carbureted Honda engine daily, so user-friendliness, availability of spare parts and familiarity is essential for keeping the engine sharp. I'll go through and troubleshoot my carburetor now that I've been inspired by your video and see what I will end up using on the car on a regular basis. Edit: Also, did I by chance hear a Swiss accent? My apologies for not containing my curiosity.
Such a really good informational video Steve..great bit of filming and editing btw. Really enjoyed that and completely demystified Weber carbs. Looking forward to the next video.
Truly a FANTASTIC series of tutorials! My sincere compliments.It is rather rare to find someone who can explain something rather complex with such clarity.I truly appreciated the verbal clarity,the super well laid out schemes,the helpful video parts.All perfectly presented. Thank you so much,my 2002 with 45 DCOEs is grateful and smiling...Andreas,Turin.
What a great video - thanks! Maybe you can answer a REALLY simple question? What is the correct way to start a classic fiat 500 engine when cold? eg Should you pump accelerator pedal a few times before you hit the starter motor....or just touch it when you hear the engine catching. My classic Fiat 500 and Fiat 238 van never start after sitting for weeks - I assumed this was just part of the joy of Fiats, but reading your reply to the 190SL man makes me think that maybe there is a cure for this problem. Mike in England
OMG this is great... I just installed a DCOE40 & Supercharger on my classic 76 mini and we are having a hell of a time tuning it (998cc) ... hopefully when we get through to part 3 we can figure out what we are doing wrong. Idels fine-ish but when going to accelerate we get gluggy back firing. Have to pull up in 2nd gear and try again. Tried all sorts of solutions. We think the jets might be too big? Too much fuel going through? Gah!! Great video by the by 🤗
Back firing into the carb ? Or exhaust ? In each case its to much unburned fuel... When you say acceleration, I assume that the acceleration pomp is activated , that injects a lot of fuel through the acceleration jets. I would suspect that as the main issue...I have had seen that before... does it run fine at higher rev's - cruising ?
@@D3Sshooter Hi Mate. Thanks for the reply. High revs she sounds OK while cruising (Acceleration only) then starts popping and blowing a little black smoke when you pull off the peddle and try to sit on a particular speed. Its much better today with new plugs, upped the fuel pressure to 3psi, and adjusted the dizzy a little. I was able to drive it atleast but we are still getting too much fuel as you said. We were thinking the jets & venturi might be the wrong size???
Just tuning my DCOE 45's on my Lotus 907 engine, it's always a difficult task. Best way to put it that there are essentially 3 carbs in one in the Webers (4 if you count the choke circuit). The idle circuit (which is a bad name) handles 0-3000rpm, the main circuit goes 3000-redline, and the accelerator pump circuit handles the heavy loading under throttle. You can get one right, say have a good smooth idle and nice accel to 3000, but then under hard accel it doesn't run well, and then doesn't run above 3000, etc. You can have 1/3, 2/3, etc. working. Proceeding to tune each one is the only way to get to a good situation, and understand how the emulsion tube works to transition.
I have never seen this before. Carbs are things that I just have someone else fix usually. Is there a RICH or LEAN setting you need to set for your altitude? The best way to adjust the richness is to look at the flame at night till it turns blue out of the exhaust.... at least it worked for the airplanes that I used to fly! DC-3 and C-47. Of course those were 1,100Hp Engines 18 cylinder. Jim in Chile.
Thanks a lot for this great and very clear video. I can see a small hole on the wing-nut (jets inspection). I guess this is to secure them with a piece of wire? Mine hasnt and I am considering drilling a hole
D3Sshooter Thanks. Noticed something today, checked the spark plugs after running, cyl 1 and 4 ok but 2 and 3 black (dry). On a 1380 A series engine with Weber 45. Mixture too rich?(weird on cyl 2 and 3!) or valve clearance? Thanks in advance and keep the great work!! Cheers
Should the accelerator pump squirt in both barrel of the carburator? Dosen't look like it does that in the video? Thank you for a great video, you are a good teacher. Just started to tune my weber 40's on my volvo b20 that i have drove around with a terrible tune for six years. Have got the engine to run great but it stalls out during quick accelerations, thanks to this video i learned that the carbs have a function for just that moment and is probally my problem!
andreas hustoft Thanks for the comments. Indeed the acceleration jet should do that. This 40 is coming out a car that was sitting there for 15 years. And are not working properly. In the next videos i talk about the jetting and tuning. Good luck with yours
Thanks for the insight My knowledge of Weber carburetors has increased tenfold. However, I'm still searching for a thorough tutorial that explains the setting of the brass type float level's.😉
I could swear that this guy had a shaggy beard on the last two episodes! :) Fun stuff with Steve, as usual. Pretty thorough discussion of the theory and various circuits of this carb.
Once you have used the Weber manual to fit the correct jets etc. then the most important thing is to follow the advice at 9:19, 9:50 and 10:26 to ensure the throttle plate is correctly positioned.
Excellent teacher, I am currently about convert my MGB GT to a Weber 45 DCOE alternative ( for its 'charge' supply) What I am specifically questioning is ; How critical in the vacuum signal to the distributor as there is not take-off at the carb for the vacuum line. I do understand that to take the signal from the manifold downstream of the butterflies may give me incorrect signalling ( Too much vacuum at part throttle. What might be acceptable compromise??
Thanks for the comments, the vacuum advance has in most cases little effect on engines that are prep-ed. In race engines you seldom see it. The main advance is created by the bob weights in the dstributor, or an electronic advance cure based on RPM's. What the vacuum does is providing a little bit more advance when more load is placed on the engine. Such as going up-hill or acceleration, at that time the engine needs a more rich mixture and that has a slower burning time then a 14/1 AFR. Thus the fuel mixture needs to be ignited earlier. That is what the vacuum advance does as there is more vacuum at that time ( engine under load and throttle open causes more vacuum)
My friend! Extremely valuable lessons from you. Great explanations in detail, and so I’ve watched the video a few times to be sure as I do have dcoe carburetor trouble at the moment. With what you have taught In separation, I believe I’m past the troubles within idle, and more into accelerating, but into maybe the area of emulsion tube and float level as my problem is in range of open throttle stumbling…? I have dcoe OER/SK 40mm very similar to this Weber setup you have here. So I will try to adjust float level after I watch your other videos next! My only question to this video, as you say accelerator pump is only a SINGLE shot after idle. Say for example, at normal driving/cruise I decide to speed up to wide open throttle, would the acceleration pump give another shot(or half shot) due to the throttle plate opening half way to wide open? If so, maybe my problems could start at acceleration circuit. How you explain I do not believe this is my problem but in the emulsion tube/float. Any guess on my situation appreciated and thank you for this video.
I got them on my Golf MK 1. Running well, but one is leaking. I´m tryiung since years to understand them andthis Video is really helpfull! But i dont get the function of the progression holes... is there any connection to the fuel circuit? Thx from germany
Through the idle circuit, mixed fuel and air feed though that into the inlet manifold on the inlet side of the closed butterfly valve. The air is drawn from inside the float chamber.
Your videos on Webers are the best. Slow and concise. Just what we need. I'm installing 4 DOCE's on my Chevy big block and no one to help explain anything. I'm sure I will be coming back for more views....Thank You.
Great to hear! Thanks for the comments.
I tuned weber carbs for years in competition, this is a wonderful tutorial Steve well done.
Thanks Gerald, and maybe you could share some good pro advice ?
@@D3Sshooter I have a pair of Weber 40 DCOE carbs on a 1960 Mercedes-Benz 190SL. The car is reluctant to start from a cold start after sitting even for a day or two. Priming it with fuel through the air intake allows it to start immediately and it runs just fine after that. I don't want to burn out my starter trying to crank from a cold start. Any suggestions on what adjustments may be needed? The fuel pump is fine and the hand primer lever gets fuel to the carbs.
@@troyroberts8568 , What I read seems not to be a cold start issue, but more a time/fuel issue. It almost sounds like your fuel chamber runs empty or low when the car sits for a while. There are several possible reason for that, first a fuel chamber leak and fuel escapes , but I guess you have no fuel leaks spotted, second the fuel evaporated due to heat build up and or flooding when the engine stopped. Have a look and test the car with a warm motor, stop and wait a few minutes ( 5) then start... if its hard to start you might have flooding issue... check your float level first. Third, your cold start circuit might be clogged as it starts with priming fuel through the airfilter. Does it run good after it started on idle ? In each case start with the float level check, then check the fuel pump pressure and volume..... Might be difficult with a mechanical pump as it is needed to run the engine so you need a T piece for you meter. Here is what I would do: disconnect the fuel line on the carb. connect a fuel bottle or canister to the carb and hang it up high ( higher then the carb) and let gravity do its thing by filling up the carb. Let the car sit a few days, then start it in that configuration. If its starts and the fuel level in the bottle did not change over the days then its not a carb issue but a fuel supply issue. Best then to replace the fuel pump with an electrical version. If the fuel level went down before you started , then you have an issue with the carb itself , maybe the needle valve, the float etc... and that should be checked. If it does not start, check your idle circuit . Another check is to pump the gas pedal a few times rapid before starting and while doing so have someone look inside the carb and check that fuel is squirted in.... Then start ( that should work) ... If you did not see the fuel been been squirted in then you have a fuel level issue or acceleration pump membrane issue... Does the car accelerate fine when driven ?
@@D3Sshooter In full disclosure, I'm not the one working on the carbs. The mechanic that restored the car had cleaned the jets and done everything except put them in a parts cleaner. He said the car runs great and idles fine after starting it with some starting fluid or fuel manually put in the intake. The car will hot start after a short time, but if it sits for hours or more, it will not start at all. There are no noticeable leaks and no fuel on the garage floor indicating a leak.I'm not sure he has driven the car after starting it or is just trying to make sure it starts in all cases. When I gave the car to him, I did notice a small metal ball about the size of a BB that was very similar to the ball in your video used with the weights next to the accelerator pump. This ball was outside of the carb and sitting on top near the wing nut that holds the top cover on. I assume this ball and weight act like a check valve. If the ball was missing, would this allow fuel to backflow and empty the chamber causing it to be hard to start?
Is it difficult to tune dual 45s on a 81 corolla 1.8 w cam header mild performance parts
I love your measured delivery and clear descriptions. An excellent teacher and thanks for demystifying engines and giving me insight to see what I can do myself and what I'd best leave to others. Thank you
Very welcome!
A perfect introduction. I have a pair of 45s on my 1973 BMW 2002. It’s been an education. 😅
Steve, like everyone else I think you do an excellent job explaining the Weber DCOE carbs. I just purchased a Caterham 7 wiith a Ford Cosworth 1600 BDA engine. It needs carburettor tuning and I have been worried about doing it. After watching your videos I feel a lot more confident going into this project. You are doing great videos, keep up the good work.
Thanks and good luck with the rebuild
The most amazing video! Your descriptions and close-up detail shots make this carburetor-for-dummies! If only every car repair video was this well made.
Thank you
Thank you Steve... Just like that, I realise my two Webers don't actually have a little box of magic hiding inside! - Perfectly to the point, and incredibly helpful video! Looking forward to your next installment! Thanks Again!
Glad to help!
Sir, thank you for this video! 🙏 I now understand my DCOEs more. They still feel like black magic, but I understand considerably more how to get my old car running again. A thousand thank yous again!
Thank you for the comments.
Suddenly you have my full attention - Webers- I knew there was a reason why I watched you doing floor tiles.
Thanks and more is to come
@@D3Sshooter i subscribed for old rusty, rust repairs.. but have enjoyed all your videos and now a lot more confident if i end up with twin dcoe on My engine (isuzu G200Z in Holden Gemini, of Australia)
Simply the best. De-mystifies Webers better than anything in print. Just excellent. Ready to play with the 45 on my new-to-me vintage racing MGB. Thanks very much Steve.
What a great teacher you make ! In those times of lockdown, i'm watching all your videos in hope of buying my car and be able to fix everything myself. Thanks for helping my dream come true :)
My pleasure, stay safe
That was an excellent and simplified explanation about carburetor basics. Thank you for posting this very informative lesson.
You are welcome!
I am just starting to get into carbs and it has been hard to find any good videos on how they work and tune them. Thank you so much!
You are so welcome!
Wow, most excellent! You've done a fabulous job linking the theory of operation to visual examples. It's been over 3 decades since I last installed and tuned a Weber DGV 32/36 on my old MGB, so your video acts as a refresher (the internet and RUclips didn't exist back then). I'm looking at installing a 34ICH on my Ford V4 in my vintage snowcat. Now I need to watch hours of your other videos!
I can't imagine a better lesson to understand the internal workings of my dcoe's. Thank you for this amazing video!
You're welcome!
I learned on a set of triple Mikuni carbs, the learning curve is steep but rewarding, setting the the linkage was the wild card for me.
Good overall to acquaint us with Webers without overwhelming with complexity. Thanks!
Great video Can't wait for part 2. Best explanation I have ever seen. Been screwing around with my Webers this helps so much. No manual I ever read does such a good job
Thanks for the comments , that is out since a while Part 2... check my channel
I have been using Weber DCOE carbs for 40 years. And DGV’s before that. I have been rebuilding them for a long time as well. But I could never get the knack of tuning them. I have a friend who has the “magic” ear for tuning Webers. Your video has been the 1st I have seen the explains them as well as you do. Thank you.
Thanks for the comments, and tuning is on its way
I have been using for 30 years and I learned a lot!!! Thanks
Great to hear!
Great video. I just purchased a Formula Mazda and it comes with a Weber side draft and I don't know a thing about these. Your video is very helpful.
I just bought a 1972 240Z with 3 DCOE 40 carbs. I'm leaning everything I can about tuning them since I've never had them before. Thank you for your video, I enjoyed it and learned many things.
Good luck and Thanks for the comments
This is a superb explanation. I have used part 2 already to dismantle my DCOE with the computer on the bench and have not watched part 1 3 or 4 times to remember all the systems. Thanks so much!
Glad it helped
I've just bought a 1959 Giulietta Sprint with dual Weber 40 DCOEs, and this has been the first time I've understood what's going on in them. Really clear. Over the next few months I'll try to fix an issue with a lag in acceleration from idle. After I watch all these videos a number of times I may try to inspect to see if the jets are all correct for the car, and if the acceleration pumps are working well. Thanks!
I always learn so much when you do these videos
Thank you for the time you put into sharing your knowledge
Glad to hear it
Great great great video!!! Thanks you Keeping the knowledge alive for my younger generation!!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for explaining Weber DCOE carburetors. I have a ‘73 Triumph TR6, having reliable power problems which I suspect are due to my 50 year old Stromberg carburetors. I’m considering changing them out to Weber downdraft carburetors, +/- $1300 U.S. before labor, or Weber DCOE sidedraft carburetors, +/- $3,000 U.S., before labor. I’m in the U.S., where carburetors were fitted rather than fuel (petrol) injected for emissions reasons. No need to worry about emissions now as the car is so old the government doesn’t check for emissions anymore. I’ll tinker with the Strombergs some more before probably considering the downdraft Webers for budget reasons.
I bought a Datsun that has a dual Webber 38 on it. Thanks for helping me understand it. Need to do a headgasket
I like your videos because your explanation for everything very detail so I am as a learning very happy to watch your videos. Thanks
Glad you like them!
From now on I call you "the demistyfier", because of your skills to explain loud and clear techniques that looks as a mistery to so many! This is a huge thumb up!!!
By listening to your explanation on the Weber40, it was also a nostalgic moment for me as with friends in our younger years, we raced an Alfa GTA 2 litres, equipped with those carburators. (VAS or Vlaamse Auto Sportfederatie)
I also would appreciate an episode on your point of view on the actual Covid-19 crisis. I listened very well to your explanation on the difference between religion and the institute behind it! It impressed me.
I like to learn what is your analysis on what is happening know. Thanks in advance.
Thank you
Thank you for a good tutorial. I did not know much about Weber type carburettors, mainly because back in the day before we could become familiar with any carburettor in general, the auto industry switched to fuel injection.
Thanks for the comments
Thank you! You are a great teacher. I wish I had teachers like you in school 😅
Thank you! 😃 I guess its because I am old school....
thanks for share with us your big knoledge.. greetings from italy
Thanks for your comments. and this great Italian carburettor manufacturing
@@D3Sshooter thanks..
Btw, Not bad italian pronunciation!
Thats a wonderful lesson of old school techique. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with such a accessible way
Excellent tutorial. I’ve just recently purchased an MG with a 45DCOE fitted, so needed a lesson in how these work. I’ve looked at the Haynes manual for Weber’s, but have found your video much easier to digest. Thank you!
Glad it helped
Steve, in your experience, does a Weber side draft need a fuel pressure regulator?
compliments for your perfect italian pronounce and carb. knowledge
Wow, thanks!
@@D3Sshooter you're welcome, can't wait to se a video of you tuning and trim a pair of 40 Solex, Weber or my fav. Dell'orto, on engine. possibly on an Alfa Romeo )))))
you are very good and explaining everything
Thanks for the comments
Very grateful for the fact that you are taking the time to share these tutorials with us, they are both very instructional and interesting. Earlier today a learned about the functioning of the clutch, and now I'm starting to learn about the carburettor. What more can I ask for?
My pleasure, enjoy
This is a fantastic explanation of the circuits in a carburettor, so good that it made me wish I could show it to my much younger self rebuilding carburettors on my poorly running cars. I got them working but really didn't understand fully how they worked and believe that I could have done a much better job.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Explained very well. Easy to follow. Nice job.
Glad you liked it
VERY WELL PUT TOGETHER SIR THIS VIDOE IVE ALWAYS LOVED WEBBER CARBS BRILLANT CARBS HAD EM ON MY 351 V8S X2 AWSOME
Glad you enjoyed it
@@D3Sshooter Absolutely sure did an you can keep on bringing more carbie videos love em 👍
I had one of these on a triumph t140 motor back in the day, worked really well.
Indeed , that is where they were also fitted
You sir are very thorough , that's why i watch your videos and learn a lot Thanks !
I appreciate that!
Thank you! Perfect pronunciation of the Italian word!
Grazie per le belle parole
@@D3Sshooter but you missed the double P and Z, in fact it's DOPPIO CORPO ORIZZONTALE, be careful with double letters in italian as many times they change meaning.
For example:
1.CAPELLO means HAIR - CAPPELLO is the HAT
2. ROSA is the flower ROSE and the colour - ROSSA means the colour RED (adjective feminine, masculine is ROSSO)
3. LOTTO can be the LOT, a SITE, the STATE LOTTERY - LOTO is the flower LOTUS
and so on...
Thank you sir, unique video tutorial, greetings from Belarus😀
You are welcome!
Fantastic videos, very informative and very well presented. Thanks very much. Keep up the good work.
Thank you very much!
Great videos. I was stumped on my weber with the choke area. Thanks for explaining this.
87 samurai sat for a few months and now it wont start.
Im atempting to perform a tune up on it.
Thank you for the thorough approach to this topic. Although carburetors vary, the basic principles and functions can be identified in most, so this tutorial also served as a basic introduction to the mechanical fuel delivery system in it's own right. Webers were originally on my mind for their current supply of spares, gaskets and customizable parts, unlike my current Mikuni carburetor which hardly has any spare parts available for it in my region. I use my carbureted Honda engine daily, so user-friendliness, availability of spare parts and familiarity is essential for keeping the engine sharp. I'll go through and troubleshoot my carburetor now that I've been inspired by your video and see what I will end up using on the car on a regular basis.
Edit: Also, did I by chance hear a Swiss accent? My apologies for not containing my curiosity.
Thanks for the comments, interesting write-up. Swiss, not really more Flemish
Brilliant / Concise / Useful - Thank you
Such a really good informational video Steve..great bit of filming and editing btw. Really enjoyed that and completely demystified Weber carbs. Looking forward to the next video.
Much appreciated!
This was VERY informative! Thank you!!
Thank you for this video. I learned so much. So glad I was suggested your channel!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice it will help me alot more on my twin side set up on my ke70..
Thanks for the comments
Very Nice tutorial....I'm into old Honda Motorbikes and I always love seeing a set of webbers on a Honda 750.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you!!! Great explanation and visuals...
Awesome explanation. Thanks!!
Thanks for the comments,
Clever man... very well explained
Excellent video. Weber 101.
Thanks for the comments
Truly a FANTASTIC series of tutorials!
My sincere compliments.It is rather rare to find someone who can explain something rather complex with such clarity.I truly appreciated the verbal clarity,the super well laid out schemes,the helpful video parts.All perfectly presented.
Thank you so much,my 2002 with 45 DCOEs is grateful and smiling...Andreas,Turin.
Wow, thanks! and Thanks for the comments
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
Thank you very much for this video! Cheers
My pleasure!
What a great video - thanks! Maybe you can answer a REALLY simple question? What is the correct way to start a classic fiat 500 engine when cold? eg Should you pump accelerator pedal a few times before you hit the starter motor....or just touch it when you hear the engine catching. My classic Fiat 500 and Fiat 238 van never start after sitting for weeks - I assumed this was just part of the joy of Fiats, but reading your reply to the 190SL man makes me think that maybe there is a cure for this problem. Mike in England
OMG this is great... I just installed a DCOE40 & Supercharger on my classic 76 mini and we are having a hell of a time tuning it (998cc) ... hopefully when we get through to part 3 we can figure out what we are doing wrong. Idels fine-ish but when going to accelerate we get gluggy back firing. Have to pull up in 2nd gear and try again. Tried all sorts of solutions. We think the jets might be too big? Too much fuel going through? Gah!!
Great video by the by 🤗
Back firing into the carb ? Or exhaust ? In each case its to much unburned fuel... When you say acceleration, I assume that the acceleration pomp is activated , that injects a lot of fuel through the acceleration jets. I would suspect that as the main issue...I have had seen that before... does it run fine at higher rev's - cruising ?
@@D3Sshooter Hi Mate. Thanks for the reply. High revs she sounds OK while cruising (Acceleration only) then starts popping and blowing a little black smoke when you pull off the peddle and try to sit on a particular speed. Its much better today with new plugs, upped the fuel pressure to 3psi, and adjusted the dizzy a little. I was able to drive it atleast but we are still getting too much fuel as you said. We were thinking the jets & venturi might be the wrong size???
Just tuning my DCOE 45's on my Lotus 907 engine, it's always a difficult task. Best way to put it that there are essentially 3 carbs in one in the Webers (4 if you count the choke circuit). The idle circuit (which is a bad name) handles 0-3000rpm, the main circuit goes 3000-redline, and the accelerator pump circuit handles the heavy loading under throttle. You can get one right, say have a good smooth idle and nice accel to 3000, but then under hard accel it doesn't run well, and then doesn't run above 3000, etc. You can have 1/3, 2/3, etc. working. Proceeding to tune each one is the only way to get to a good situation, and understand how the emulsion tube works to transition.
Indeed, circuits are one thing , but the transfer inbetween is the most difficult part to get right...
great video, best explanation ever!! can't wait to see part 2 and 3
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you Steve, very informative video, looking forward for the next one.
Glad you enjoyed it
Excellent and informative video, thanks for posting this !
Glad it was helpful!
Love this this tutorial! Just bought a pair of fajs 45s and this was really educational. Keep the goodwork up!
Awesome! Thank you!
Thanks a lot for this masterclass!!!
Glad you like it!
I have never seen this before. Carbs are things that I just have someone else fix usually. Is there a RICH or LEAN setting you need to set for your altitude? The best way to adjust the richness is to look at the flame at night till it turns blue out of the exhaust.... at least it worked for the airplanes that I used to fly! DC-3 and C-47. Of course those were 1,100Hp Engines 18 cylinder. Jim in Chile.
Thanks for the comments , Wow the Dacota what a great plane DC3 that was really flying
Very good tutorial
Thank you! Cheers!
Wonderful explanation! Thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
Very clear and informative videos. Keep up the excellent work mate!
Much appreciated! Thanks for the comments,
Very well done. Thank you
Very nice job
Thank you
Thanks for taking the time to make and post this info and video will help me loads
Glad it helped
Thanks a lot for this great and very clear video. I can see a small hole on the wing-nut (jets inspection). I guess this is to secure them with a piece of wire? Mine hasnt and I am considering drilling a hole
yes indeed. No real need for it
D3Sshooter Thanks. Noticed something today, checked the spark plugs after running, cyl 1 and 4 ok but 2 and 3 black (dry). On a 1380 A series engine with Weber 45. Mixture too rich?(weird on cyl 2 and 3!) or valve clearance? Thanks in advance and keep the great work!! Cheers
Should the accelerator pump squirt in both barrel of the carburator? Dosen't look like it does that in the video?
Thank you for a great video, you are a good teacher.
Just started to tune my weber 40's on my volvo b20 that i have drove around with a terrible tune for six years.
Have got the engine to run great but it stalls out during quick accelerations, thanks to this video i learned that the carbs have a function for just that moment and is probally my problem!
andreas hustoft Thanks for the comments. Indeed the acceleration jet should do that. This 40 is coming out a car that was sitting there for 15 years. And are not working properly. In the next videos i talk about the jetting and tuning. Good luck with yours
this is fantastic. I cannot wait for part 2.
Thanks for the comments, its done an out , soon part 2B
how cool was this. I started to learn about carburators cuz I wanna by a crappy vintage Alfa ⭐
Thanks for the comments, and good luck with Alfa . a spider ?
@@D3Sshooter Spider indeed. Series 2.
great knowledge
Thanks for liking
great video
Thanks for the visit
@@D3Sshooter Im into air cooled VWs I'll be here often I subscribed and liked buddy
Top video, thanks for taking the time to make it, it's a great help to me.
Glad it helped
Thanks for the insight
My knowledge of Weber carburetors has increased tenfold. However, I'm still searching for a thorough tutorial that explains the setting of the brass type float level's.😉
Great suggestion!, I might do that soon Thanks for the comments
@@D3Sshooter I'll be looking forward to your upload with an unparalleled fascination
Thank you.
You're welcome!
I could swear that this guy had a shaggy beard on the last two episodes! :) Fun stuff with Steve, as usual. Pretty thorough discussion of the theory and various circuits of this carb.
You're right! Thanks for the comments
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Once you have used the Weber manual to fit the correct jets etc. then the most important thing is to follow the advice at 9:19, 9:50 and 10:26 to ensure the throttle plate is correctly positioned.
Thanks for the comments
Awesome
Thanks for the comments
Thank you so much :) Excellent :)
Very interesting. Thanks
Very welcome
Great information thanks, quick question should the Venturi be a lose fit into body of carb ?
Thanks , well loose no , no rattle but removable with slight force. Some have a locking bold on the bottom
Excellent teacher, I am currently about convert my MGB GT to a Weber 45 DCOE alternative ( for its 'charge' supply) What I am specifically questioning is ; How critical in the vacuum signal to the distributor as there is not take-off at the carb for the vacuum line.
I do understand that to take the signal from the manifold downstream of the butterflies may give me incorrect signalling ( Too much vacuum at part throttle. What might be acceptable compromise??
Thanks for the comments, the vacuum advance has in most cases little effect on engines that are prep-ed. In race engines you seldom see it. The main advance is created by the bob weights in the dstributor, or an electronic advance cure based on RPM's. What the vacuum does is providing a little bit more advance when more load is placed on the engine. Such as going up-hill or acceleration, at that time the engine needs a more rich mixture and that has a slower burning time then a 14/1 AFR. Thus the fuel mixture needs to be ignited earlier. That is what the vacuum advance does as there is more vacuum at that time ( engine under load and throttle open causes more vacuum)
Great video!!!
Glad you liked it!
My friend! Extremely valuable lessons from you. Great explanations in detail, and so I’ve watched the video a few times to be sure as I do have dcoe carburetor trouble at the moment.
With what you have taught In separation, I believe I’m past the troubles within idle, and more into accelerating, but into maybe the area of emulsion tube and float level as my problem is in range of open throttle stumbling…?
I have dcoe OER/SK 40mm very similar to this Weber setup you have here. So I will try to adjust float level after I watch your other videos next!
My only question to this video, as you say accelerator pump is only a SINGLE shot after idle. Say for example, at normal driving/cruise I decide to speed up to wide open throttle, would the acceleration pump give another shot(or half shot) due to the throttle plate opening half way to wide open?
If so, maybe my problems could start at acceleration circuit. How you explain I do not believe this is my problem but in the emulsion tube/float. Any guess on my situation appreciated and thank you for this video.
Yes it will as cruising is near idle in terms of carb condition
Thanks for the very informative series on the weber dcoe carburetor. But why do these carbs not have a vacuum advance connection ?
Good question!, because most of the time that is found on the intake manifold with weber mounted carbs
Would love to see all tuning on SU carbs of 3.5 V8 Defender. Any chances?
cheers
That might be possibe, but will need to get my hands on some... at least for the practical work
I got them on my Golf MK 1. Running well, but one is leaking. I´m tryiung since years to understand them andthis Video is really helpfull! But i dont get the function of the progression holes... is there any connection to the fuel circuit?
Thx from germany
Hi - I have a weber 40 DOCE that begins to spit fuel at idle after a minute or so. Anyway to stop weber from spitting ?
Question? When the engine is idling and the throttles are complete closed. Where is the air coming from?
Air bypass on some carbs, on other idle speed screw holds the throttles slightly open.
Through the idle circuit, mixed fuel and air feed though that into the inlet manifold on the inlet side of the closed butterfly valve. The air is drawn from inside the float chamber.
They aren't completely closed. The amount that they are open is what you are adjusting when you change the idle speed.
Eliott, I think the guys have answered that question, not much I can add. thanks guys