The ultrasonic is a great cleaner and time saver and doesn't require any chemicals that let off VOCs so I use it all the time on carbs. So, I am glad you showed how to use it. I didn't notice how you managed to rinse the cleaning solution out all the passages after soaking the entire DCOE in the ultrasonic.
That is blowing air ( compressed air) through all the channels, then using brake cleaner fluid and blow again and finally carb cleaner.... all works well
This is by FAR the best series I've ever seen on Webers. 1000 thank yous and I look forward to the next one.I've rebuilt Bings, Solex, SUs, Carters etc with varying degrees of correctness. I've been hesitant to do my Webers on an Alfa but I have a transplant in my future and that requires a Weber rebuild. Your series will install the confidence I needed. I wish you did Alfa engine rebuilds with this level of explanations.
Hello, I have been watching your videos on Weber DCOE carburettors in hopes of getting my Caterham running well after I get it put back together. It has a Cosworth 1.6 BDR engine. A friend of mine bought it from Caterham brand new in 1986. He never finished the car and I remember him claiming the carburettors were giving him trouble and he couldn’t get them adjusted properly. He died about 5 years ago and I bought the car from one of his sons about a month ago. Your videos are excellent. I live in the United States and speak our English. If I recall correctly you mentioned you are in Belgium. Your English is excellent. You are clear and very easy to understand. Your knowledge is remarkable and your detail makes your videos superb. I know people in the US are not typically four cyl car guys but I grew up with MGBs and MGAs and now with the Caterham I have always been more of a smaller engine guy. I admire your Formula Ford work as well and enjoy those videos as well. Please keep of the good work!
I really appreciate your channel. Thank you so much. Your videos and explanations are so clear and informative. I'm watching your DCOE videos to help sort out running issues on my pre-crossflow single seater racecar. I've also watched your alignment videos to help with geometry adjustment. Well done and keep up the good work.
Hi i just saw a weber carburetor first time this year. It really fascinated me and i thought of getting more information about it after wrongly dismantling my datsun 1200 carburetor on My Nissan B12 (sentra)., and on searching o how to fix it i came across you. Av watched several episodes already and to be sincere this is one of the most elaborate videos av seen. you have an amazing channel. The passion and the ease that you show makes me appreciate old things more and more. Much respect from Kenya. it is no doubt i will be following you more. Am professional photographer and i cherish wood working.thank you so much for sharing with the world what you know. And you just amaze me at the thought of how much knowledge and wisdom one can acquire in a lifetime. Thank you thank thank you. You are GOLD!!!!!
Reminds me of a "Weber Doppelvergaser 45 DCOE" on a "1982 Capri 2.0 OHC" i revised for my girlfriend in the 90s. Hardest thing was not to bump the table on wich i spreaded all the parts on. Took me two Weekends and worked like a charm.
I rebuilt lots of engines completely, but taking apart a carburetor always scares me a lot. I don't know why. Maybe my mind is telling me I'll forget or lose screws and seals everywhere. Thanks for showing how its done!
Once again a very instructive and interesting video. Thank you for going in such detail with this job, it makes it all so much easier to understand. Really looking forward to the next part, so stay safe in these troubled times!
Thank you for these weber vids!! There are fewer and fewer people around that understand these carbs. I use 45's on my 77 Celica. They will need a rebuild soon and I'll use your video as my school book!!
Everything in the carburetors should be identical between all four barrels. Only exception is the main system where you might find differences. First and last cylinders run less hot and might go with a bit more lean mixture. When last person fiddled with Your carbs, didn’t understood this and tries to make two barrels in each carb similar. Instead this someone should have made cylinder 1 and 4 identical, 2 and 3 identical. But in my experience, this is very specialized turning and not for the average mechanic. Your videos is much appreciated!
Thanks for the comments, indeed tuning is an art by itself... the main issue is that you need to start with a firm foundation of good /correct jets and veturis... then start to tune either on a dyno or a road test and have many jets , emuslion tubes and venturis available to get it right.
Always use the correct size screwdriver or you will damage the screws, keep all the parts in a well organized partitioned case, mark the parts to help reassembly, expect the unexpected (bent butterfly shafts), If in doubt - make a video of the disassembly. You covered it all - good video.
I have a great tip for using an ultrasonic cleaner,instead of filling the tank with cleaner,get zip loc bags big enough for your item to be cleaned,they come in various sizes and i have some that will allow a weber DCOE to fit easy and very loose,add the cleaner fluid to the bag with the carburettor and once you have enough cleaner in the bag by allowing the part to sit on the bottom of the bag on a flat surface/table let the fluid cover the part/carb then zip the bag almost closed then push the bag top down to the fluid to remove all the air,when the fluid tries to leak out fully close the zip loc bag. Now sit the bag in the ultrasonic cleaner tank and then fill the tank with cold or warm water,the Ultra sound waves will work the same as with no bag but now the tank can be used for lots of cleaner types without contaminating the tank,and you dont use as much cleaner.
Thanks a lot! Amazing detail as usual, great explanation. Hope you rebuild some 2BB Solex sometime, I experience myself all the emotional states you mention with one 34-34 French mechanical marvel jaja. CONGRATS, GREAT CHANNEL!
I live fews km away from where these carb used to be made in italy. If you are not be able to find some special parts of some kind let me know, i could help you find them here and send them to you. See you next time!
Thanks for the comments, that is really great Gabriele . I might pick you up on that... I could use the brass spindle for the butterflies as all replacement are steel
@@D3Sshooter they went to steel shafts because just the pressure of the return spring on the accelerator pump arm slowly bends those brass shafts and wear into the carburetor body causing idle air leaks.
Thank you! Where is the best place to buy parts? I've aquire a set of triple dcoe40 in a trade, basically got them for free. But need complete rebuild. probably most parts screws,jets etc. Going on my 240z...thanks
@@sebastiansavalli8109 the best places are old retired mechanichs or places were they restore old cars (in this part of italy there are a lot of them). This is the only way to find original spare parts difficult to find elsewhere. But for rebuilt kit you should find them on the internet as well (at leats most commons types)
@@gabrieleolivieri2852 thank you very much! I bought the rebuilt kits but it's just gaskets and the valve. But I will definitely do more searching! And one day soon I will revisit Italy once again!
my favorite tool for removing float pins is an Automatic Center Punch....or spring loaded punch. It usually pops the pin right out with no tapping with hammer
Thanks Steve, very helpful indeed... I have just finished stripping mine today after watching your video. I see my butterfly shaft is steel and not brass like yours. (40 DCOE-28), Also mine has sealed bearings, which is probably aftermarket. These carbs have been worked on before.
Thanks for the comments Thomas, indeed yours was reworked as the butterfly spindle is typical steel when reworked. Original Brass, I could not find a brass replacement , so mine are now also steel
My guess is that in the previous ''Mad Max'' autopsy & rebuild butchery... is that those bent end axle rods, had some lebendig bösartig metal hammer blows applied to get them not only out, but back in as well.
Thanks for the comments, indeed... this car has nothing else then those F...up things. wires to keep things together, silicone alover, twised wires instead of plugs.. etc....
Great video - I especially liked the part at 28:28 where the damage to the shaft was revealed. "Somebody bent it" - no, wasn't me when I was using the 20 ton press and the hammer and punch........ The throttle attachment at the beginning was not revealing a bent shaft and peened threads, haha.
Thanks for the comments, but it was bent on both and the press was not even near that 20 Ton... the second carb had the same bend spindle and broken bolds.... and believe me whoever assembled this carb really did not know what he was doing, wrong jets, wrong venturis and the bended spindle
Nice to see real world disassembly. I am also anticipating putting webers on a BMW race car, and wonder about the question if you prefer the Italian made or the newer Spanish made Webers?
I was just about the post this question.... I had sized one, but realized I had not factored the basket, and the carb must not only fit inside the unit but also inside the basket!
Letting things sit is very bad for carbs. My old camper bus ran great but got parked for a few years then the accelerator pump failed due to clogging in the passages leading to the venturi. Terminally clogged and had to replace carb since ultrasonic didn't fix. Now days with electronics and fuel injection, even mechanics sometimes haven't had experience with carb problems. Problems that aren't as easily fixed with a code reader. Nice thorough treatment and explanation on your part. Thanks.
Very good video. I love building carbs...I also enjoy getting hit in the head with a hammer, But who cares. Actually, I have done a few of different kinds, and they are actually easy, it;s just a matter of keeping your self and the parts organized. You explained that very well. Regards, Solomon
Rather a complex disassembly. And like exploring a cave -- not sure what you will find! Restoring old cars like this is a labor of love for those who do it. I notice your hat says '1969'. Did you own that hat in 1969, and if so, what were you doing then when you wore it?
Your videos are a great help. I am having trouble taking the screws that hold the butterfly valves to the shaft. They look to have a grove at the back which might mean that they were spread so that they would not come out!!!!! I cannot budge them even after heat and penetrating oil, etc. Any suggestions?
I have a similar rebuild kit and I am in the process of rebuilding my Weber DCOE 45. I have a Italian built 152 so there are some minor differences. Where do all the o-rings go from the rebuild kit. So far I have only found o-rings below the idle mixture screw and the pump jet cover. There are also 2 small metal rings in the kit (pump jet washers) are these supposed to go under the pump jets?
Great video, I have been rebuilding carbs for years and used to blast them with soda also. I recently bought a vapor hone and it’s the absolute best for blasting carbs. Very gentle and it makes them look like they were new castings.
Wouldn't it be better to disassemble the carb before the ultrasonic cleaning? That's what mechanics normally do with carb cleaner. Just curious. Thanks.
@@D3Sshooter Well that makes perfect sense. I've rebuilt 100's of carbs and never did a pre clean. Good idea. Thanks for your excellent videos. Especially the ones about tuning and working on DCOE 40's I have 3 on my '72 240Z and you've helped me a lot.
Hmmm, I ned to use soda that works well and let them soak in warm water. There is also a spray that you can use Break cleaner or even Carburettor cleaner
When reassembling would it be bad practice to use a tiny amount of 3in1 aerosol or WD-40 to reduce the friction of dry brass into dry aluminum? Just a thought, as I'm a bearer for detail.
@@D3Sshooter A new question. Is it possible to hellicoil the threads that hold the carburetor lid down? There's five in total in an M5 thread and I'm fairly certain that I've overcooked one by using a 1/4" drive ratchet. The thread may have been already semi stripped, as I didn't use a lot of torque Previous answer was greatly appreciated.
Thank you for this video! I jumped right in on my own disablembly. However I can not easily remove the part at 11:47 (starter valve?) (after the you remove the spring). I have 2 of these stuck and unable to move as well as the Pump rods. These do not want to come out any advise for "stuck " parts?
Glad it helped! They can be a bit corroded, spray some antirust or nut release liquid on it and let it sit for a day or so.. if none of all that works , you could place the entire carb into an ultrasonic bath ... that helps often
@@D3Sshooter can they leak causing an untunable rich mixture ? As in it smells real rich no matter what I do . Is there a way to check? I saw a video of a guy that soldered the jet tip closed then predrilled smaller. Can I just solder the jet closed?
Video's like this make me worry about our internet security. If the Chinese take this man's videos down I'm kicking ass and taking names over there xi jinping
Brass is a alloy of copper and zinc, which makes it a lot stronger and less prone to metal fatigue . But copper has been used as floats ,but is also heaver
@D3Sshooter, is it safe to use "carburetor cleaner" (spray can, like this: gunk.com/product/gunk-carb-medic-m4814c/) to clean all parts of a Weber 40 DCOE carb? I'm concerned about possibly harming any of metal (body, jets, pump, etc.). Also, what kind of brush can I use to avoid scratching any of the parts? Thanks in advance
Between my ultrasonic cleaner and my baking soda blaster, I can make carbs look like brand new. Baking soda in a handheld sandblaster is ideal for cleaning aluminum and zinc carb bodies. It will clean and remove corrosion without damaging the base metal, and will dissolve away with plain water. For those float pins, I use a spring loaded center punch to pop them out. Much safer than a hammer. Breaking one of those pivot posts off will quickly ruin your day.....
I'm currently in the weber dcoe research phase. I plan to eventually install triple 40's on a 240Z. I can't begin to tell you how much your 2 videos have enlightened me and answered the questions I had about these mythical hunks of aluminum! The pace you explained everything and the detailed explanations are beyond appreciated. Looking forward to seeing your next tuning video. I hope you go into the knitty gritty on what to watch/listen for when the motor is running. Thank you again! Bravo!
I would send mine to you. Im stumped on my 40mm dcoe's. The choke circuit area seems to have a blocker plate and no gear lever choke plate assy. Its blocked off. And there's just a square steel lug with no spring behind the brass retainer ring up top. Looks different from the one you are working on. Spain 40 dcoe151 295 7 87 Suzuki samurai gypsy sierra
I hope you don’t mind me messaging you. I’m after some advice….. I came across your video regarding the Weber DCOE on RUclips following a Google search trying to find a solution for a problem I’ve stupidly created for myself. I have a 1400 Vauxhall engine that I use in a my race car which has a pair of Weber 40 DCOE carbs. I had a problem with the starter motor and upon changing I wanted to fire the car up and make sure all was Ok. In a nutshell I stupidly grabbed the first fuel can I found and out of the 9 we keep in the trailer box 1 of them has diesel in. Yes, you guess it. I fuelled up with diesel. The car wouldn’t start at all but I was pumping the throttle a fair bit. I checked spark and then cracked the nut on the fuel inlet union on one of the carbs which is when I’d realised my error. I’ve pumped all the fuel from the fuel tank and lines and changed the filter and now purged the fuel line through so that’s all just petrol. However I’m going to assume the carb is now full of diesel. Am I likely to have damaged anything? And what’s my best course of action. Is there a way to drain the fuel out of the carb. From looking at your rebuild video I wondered if taking off the square plate on the bottom of the carb (held on by 4 screws might do the trick) Any advise would be greayfully received
hello again, we finally discovered that the inside channels -where fuel flows- of the main Weber DCOE45 body are not enough cleaned/free of fuel gum, so how long should I treat it with brake cleaner in case I can't get access to an ultrasonic cleaner. How I identify if its ready, couse the engine don't rise up R.P.M.'s
Get a set of hollow ground screwdrivers they are worth it. Or just use the bits meant for battery drill, they work almost as good because the way they are ground
Great videos, thank you! The plates with 2 holes that cover the springs and leather seals next to the bearings are really stuck in my carbs. I've sprayed penetrating oil in, heated up with hot air gun, etc. They won't budge. Any ideas? What if I pressed the throttle shaft through to push out both the bearing and the cover plate?
I had a simular problem once and punched out on a small press , it did damage the spindle.. but I did got new once. You can try to put in the ultra sonic cleaner... that works sometimes
An automatic center punch with the punch ground to fit the hole size needed will work very well without using a hammer,in fact if a small very obtuse angle is ground on the tip it will hold center on the first few punches without mushrooming the pin also the pin will be of a reasonably hardened steel to avoid it wearing too quick which would cause bad fueling.
Great videos and good technical issues, but I would like to know how can I disassembly the pump piston that is fully stucked, when trying to take it over I think the pump rod went broken. Thanks !!!
Another nice video! I love old classic cars and i'm learning English therefore, your videos are twice useful for me :) Your explanations are really clear and i love your pedantic approach to restoration and repair. Hello from Russia! :)
Thanks for your great videos. I have a question. In my carburetor the shaft with the butterfly does not rotate due to some chemical corrosion (2 different metals: steel shaft and aluminum housing, plus moister). Could you recommend something to try to solve this problem?
Thanks for the comments , well take the shaft out and get it all polished , then apply aviation grease /insulator on it . That will create a film between the parts
@@D3Sshooter Thanks for your reply. The problem is that I can not get out the shaft because it is seized. Do you have any other idea what to try? Thanks.
There's a much easier way to remove the throttle shaft. No need to use a press. Before removing throttle plate screws grind off the peened over end using a dremel and small carbide tip. Screws come out much easier after doing this and lessens the chance of damage to threads in throttle shaft. You also do not need to remove the bearing retaining caps first with circlip pliers or use heat. After removing the end nuts and throttle arms spray into the bearing area penetrating fluid and let it sit for a while. After that hold the carburettor body in one hand and tap the end of the shaft with a plastic or leather hammer. Shaft will then move and push the bearing and retainer out together on the other side. Repeat on the other side of the shaft. Job done. Don't bash it on one side whilst resting the body on a socket on the other side. You'll dent and marr the body where it rests on the socket. Just holding the body in your hand whilst tapping the end of the shaft is sufficient.
I am so glad i found your channel. I have learned so much more in your two videos so far than i have reading two books on carburetors. Thank you!!!!
The ultrasonic is a great cleaner and time saver and doesn't require any chemicals that let off VOCs so I use it all the time on carbs. So, I am glad you showed how to use it. I didn't notice how you managed to rinse the cleaning solution out all the passages after soaking the entire DCOE in the ultrasonic.
That is blowing air ( compressed air) through all the channels, then using brake cleaner fluid and blow again and finally carb cleaner.... all works well
@@D3Sshooter which cleaning solution do you use?!
@@janzochmann4365 Hi , I use brake cleaner and in the ultrasonic I tend to use the TICKOPUR R33
This is by FAR the best series I've ever seen on Webers. 1000 thank yous and I look forward to the next one.I've rebuilt Bings, Solex, SUs, Carters etc with varying degrees of correctness. I've been hesitant to do my Webers on an Alfa but I have a transplant in my future and that requires a Weber rebuild. Your series will install the confidence I needed.
I wish you did Alfa engine rebuilds with this level of explanations.
Wow, thanks! I would not mind an Alfa... but time is what I don't have... soon more on weber jetting
Hello, I have been watching your videos on Weber DCOE carburettors in hopes of getting my Caterham running well after I get it put back together. It has a Cosworth 1.6 BDR engine. A friend of mine bought it from Caterham brand new in 1986. He never finished the car and I remember him claiming the carburettors were giving him trouble and he couldn’t get them adjusted properly. He died about 5 years ago and I bought the car from one of his sons about a month ago.
Your videos are excellent. I live in the United States and speak our English. If I recall correctly you mentioned you are in Belgium. Your English is excellent. You are clear and very easy to understand. Your knowledge is remarkable and your detail makes your videos superb. I know people in the US are not typically four cyl car guys but I grew up with MGBs and MGAs and now with the Caterham I have always been more of a smaller engine guy. I admire your Formula Ford work as well and enjoy those videos as well. Please keep of the good work!
I really appreciate your channel. Thank you so much. Your videos and explanations are so clear and informative. I'm watching your DCOE videos to help sort out running issues on my pre-crossflow single seater racecar. I've also watched your alignment videos to help with geometry adjustment. Well done and keep up the good work.
Hi i just saw a weber carburetor first time this year. It really fascinated me and i thought of getting more information about it after wrongly dismantling my datsun 1200 carburetor on My Nissan B12 (sentra)., and on searching o how to fix it i came across you. Av watched several episodes already and to be sincere this is one of the most elaborate videos av seen. you have an amazing channel. The passion and the ease that you show makes me appreciate old things more and more. Much respect from Kenya. it is no doubt i will be following you more. Am professional photographer and i cherish wood working.thank you so much for sharing with the world what you know. And you just amaze me at the thought of how much knowledge and wisdom one can acquire in a lifetime. Thank you thank thank you. You are GOLD!!!!!
Reminds me of a "Weber Doppelvergaser 45 DCOE" on a "1982 Capri 2.0 OHC" i revised for my girlfriend in the 90s. Hardest thing was not to bump the table on wich i spreaded all the parts on. Took me two Weekends and worked like a charm.
Thanks for the comments, indeed and this is very simular on the same Pinto engine
I rebuilt lots of engines completely, but taking apart a carburetor always scares me a lot. I don't know why. Maybe my mind is telling me I'll forget or lose screws and seals everywhere.
Thanks for showing how its done!
Thanks for the comments, its rather simple once you know the working of it
Once again a very instructive and interesting video. Thank you for going in such detail with this job, it makes it all so much easier to understand. Really looking forward to the next part, so stay safe in these troubled times!
You are very welcome
Fantastic and very informative video. Thank you for taking the time to do these video series. Looking forward for the second part. 👍👌
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for these weber vids!! There are fewer and fewer people around that understand these carbs. I use 45's on my 77 Celica. They will need a rebuild soon and I'll use your video as my school book!!
Glad to help, and good luck
Thanks so much for posting an honest demo of how to disassemble a DCOE carb.
Good Job ! They will be much better when You are done with them for sure.
I think so too! Thanks for the comments
Great video! Can’t wait for the next one! Thank you so much for the videos.
Glad you like them!
Very interesting, enjoying this series Steve.
Glad you enjoy it!
Everything in the carburetors should be identical between all four barrels.
Only exception is the main system where you might find differences.
First and last cylinders run less hot and might go with a bit more lean mixture.
When last person fiddled with Your carbs, didn’t understood this and tries to make two barrels in each carb similar.
Instead this someone should have made cylinder 1 and 4 identical, 2 and 3 identical.
But in my experience, this is very specialized turning and not for the average mechanic.
Your videos is much appreciated!
Thanks for the comments, indeed tuning is an art by itself... the main issue is that you need to start with a firm foundation of good /correct jets and veturis... then start to tune either on a dyno or a road test and have many jets , emuslion tubes and venturis available to get it right.
Always use the correct size screwdriver or you will damage the screws, keep all the parts in a well organized partitioned case, mark the parts to help reassembly, expect the unexpected (bent butterfly shafts), If in doubt - make a video of the disassembly. You covered it all - good video.
Thanks for the comments, absolutely and sometimes i don't and that is so wrong
I have a great tip for using an ultrasonic cleaner,instead of filling the tank with cleaner,get zip loc bags big enough for your item to be cleaned,they come in various sizes and i have some that will allow a weber DCOE to fit easy and very loose,add the cleaner fluid to the bag with the carburettor and once you have enough cleaner in the bag by allowing the part to sit on the bottom of the bag on a flat surface/table let the fluid cover the part/carb then zip the bag almost closed then push the bag top down to the fluid to remove all the air,when the fluid tries to leak out fully close the zip loc bag.
Now sit the bag in the ultrasonic cleaner tank and then fill the tank with cold or warm water,the Ultra sound waves will work the same as with no bag but now the tank can be used for lots of cleaner types without contaminating the tank,and you dont use as much cleaner.
thanks for the comments and great tips
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to explain the disassembly - so appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Very interesting, you do it fantastic, professional services working. Cheers have a good luck n stay safe
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks a lot! Amazing detail as usual, great explanation. Hope you rebuild some 2BB Solex sometime, I experience myself all the emotional states you mention with one 34-34 French mechanical marvel jaja. CONGRATS, GREAT CHANNEL!
Thanks for the comments and maybe one day will
I live fews km away from where these carb used to be made in italy. If you are not be able to find some special parts of some kind let me know, i could help you find them here and send them to you. See you next time!
Thanks for the comments, that is really great Gabriele . I might pick you up on that... I could use the brass spindle for the butterflies as all replacement are steel
@@D3Sshooter they went to steel shafts because just the pressure of the return spring on the accelerator pump arm slowly bends those brass shafts and wear into the carburetor body causing idle air leaks.
Thank you! Where is the best place to buy parts? I've aquire a set of triple dcoe40 in a trade, basically got them for free. But need complete rebuild. probably most parts screws,jets etc. Going on my 240z...thanks
@@sebastiansavalli8109 the best places are old retired mechanichs or places were they restore old cars (in this part of italy there are a lot of them). This is the only way to find original spare parts difficult to find elsewhere. But for rebuilt kit you should find them on the internet as well (at leats most commons types)
@@gabrieleolivieri2852 thank you very much! I bought the rebuilt kits but it's just gaskets and the valve. But I will definitely do more searching! And one day soon I will revisit Italy once again!
my favorite tool for removing float pins is an Automatic Center Punch....or spring loaded punch. It usually pops the pin right out with no tapping with hammer
Thanks for the comments, I need to check on that
Thanks Steve, very helpful indeed... I have just finished stripping mine today after watching your video. I see my butterfly shaft is steel and not brass like yours. (40 DCOE-28), Also mine has sealed bearings, which is probably aftermarket. These carbs have been worked on before.
Thanks for the comments Thomas, indeed yours was reworked as the butterfly spindle is typical steel when reworked. Original Brass, I could not find a brass replacement , so mine are now also steel
My guess is that in the previous ''Mad Max'' autopsy & rebuild butchery... is that those bent end axle rods, had some lebendig bösartig metal hammer blows applied to get them not only out, but back in as well.
Thanks for the comments, indeed... this car has nothing else then those F...up things. wires to keep things together, silicone alover, twised wires instead of plugs.. etc....
Another great video, and I like your recommandations how to coop with anormalities such as the bent axle .
No thumb up without a comment! :-)
Thanks 👍
Very informative and interesting video ! Thanks for posting this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video - I especially liked the part at 28:28 where the damage to the shaft was revealed. "Somebody bent it" - no, wasn't me when I was using the 20 ton press and the hammer and punch........ The throttle attachment at the beginning was not revealing a bent shaft and peened threads, haha.
Thanks for the comments, but it was bent on both and the press was not even near that 20 Ton... the second carb had the same bend spindle and broken bolds.... and believe me whoever assembled this carb really did not know what he was doing, wrong jets, wrong venturis and the bended spindle
Nice to see real world disassembly. I am also anticipating putting webers on a BMW race car, and wonder about the question if you prefer the Italian made or the newer Spanish made Webers?
Excellent!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you
Really good video. Did you not forget to mention the very small aluminium washers under the pump jets though?
yes indeed, thank you for reminding me
What size ultrasonic cleaner do you have? (How many liters?)
The Weber dcoe fits perfectly in there!
Thank you so much for making these videos!
Thanks for the comments, 15 Litre
I was just about the post this question.... I had sized one, but realized I had not factored the basket, and the carb must not only fit inside the unit but also inside the basket!
Excellent information
Glad it was helpful!
waiting for part 3. I have been using these carb for 30 years. Watching the videos I have learned a lot. Thank you
Letting things sit is very bad for carbs. My old camper bus ran great but got parked for a few years then the accelerator pump failed due to clogging in the passages leading to the venturi. Terminally clogged and had to replace carb since ultrasonic didn't fix. Now days with electronics and fuel injection, even mechanics sometimes haven't had experience with carb problems. Problems that aren't as easily fixed with a code reader. Nice thorough treatment and explanation on your part. Thanks.
Thanks for the comments, indeed
Very good video. I love building carbs...I also enjoy getting hit in the head with a hammer, But who cares. Actually, I have done a few of different kinds, and they are actually easy, it;s just a matter of keeping your self and the parts organized. You explained that very well. Regards, Solomon
Well said! Thanks for the comments
Rather a complex disassembly. And like exploring a cave -- not sure what you will find! Restoring old cars like this is a labor of love for those who do it. I notice your hat says '1969'. Did you own that hat in 1969, and if so, what were you doing then when you wore it?
txs denis, no that is a retro cap i was 8 in 1969
did you realize that you pressed the shaft crooked on the hydraulic press (!) cf. around instant 25'
Thank you for the comments, yes and that was to get it out... lI have added new shafts
Your videos are a great help. I am having trouble taking the screws that hold the butterfly valves to the shaft. They look to have a grove at the back which might mean that they were spread so that they would not come out!!!!! I cannot budge them even after heat and penetrating oil, etc. Any suggestions?
I have a similar rebuild kit and I am in the process of rebuilding my Weber DCOE 45. I have a Italian built 152 so there are some minor differences. Where do all the o-rings go from the rebuild kit. So far I have only found o-rings below the idle mixture screw and the pump jet cover. There are also 2 small metal rings in the kit (pump jet washers) are these supposed to go under the pump jets?
Same procedure. For 38/38 does? Thank you
I guess that the 2 unlike's were those who put the carbs together in the first place.
TXS for the comments
Great video, I have been rebuilding carbs for years and used to blast them with soda also. I recently bought a vapor hone and it’s the absolute best for blasting carbs. Very gentle and it makes them look like they were new castings.
Great tip!, I guess I should get one.. any recommendations
D3Sshooter I purchased mine from Vapor Honing Technologies.
is there a link somewhere to the revision kit that you like to use?
Wouldn't it be better to disassemble the carb before the ultrasonic cleaning? That's what mechanics normally do with carb cleaner. Just curious. Thanks.
Yes indeed, I cleaned it before and after as I hate to take dirty things apart. Hence a pre-clean.
@@D3Sshooter Well that makes perfect sense. I've rebuilt 100's of carbs and never did a pre clean. Good idea. Thanks for your excellent videos. Especially the ones about tuning and working on DCOE 40's I have 3 on my '72 240Z and you've helped me a lot.
hi i really enjoy the video can you indicate the best size of the carburator for my ford pinto 2.3L engine?
Thanks for the comments, that is difficult to say without knowing your intake manifold , you target powercurve etc..
I’m restoring a couple of dcoes during the quarantine. Any tip to get them shiny or at least better looking with household materials?
Hmmm, I ned to use soda that works well and let them soak in warm water. There is also a spray that you can use Break cleaner or even Carburettor cleaner
2B or not 2B is the question? Great vid!
Thanks for the comments
Thank you! Where do you get your parts?
on the butterfly's, when reassembling - do you stake the new screws or use thread locker?
thread locker, Thanks for the comments
Прокладки картон???
I measured my float and it weighs 26.33 grams, but to Oz its .926...
The carbs really pop when cleaned that way
Thanks for the comments
When reassembling would it be bad practice to use a tiny amount of 3in1 aerosol or WD-40 to reduce the friction of dry brass into dry aluminum? Just a thought, as I'm a bearer for detail.
Thanks for the comments Adam. Sure that is always good
@@D3Sshooter A new question. Is it possible to hellicoil the threads that hold the carburetor lid down? There's five in total in an M5 thread and I'm fairly certain that I've overcooked one by using a 1/4" drive ratchet. The thread may have been already semi stripped, as I didn't use a lot of torque Previous answer was greatly appreciated.
WEBER 40 DCOE 19 TWIN CARBURETORS
I have 2 of these available for sale
Thanks for the comments
Ok.
Are you still intending to replace the Elise cambelt, Steve?
yes indeed, soon on second elise
Do you tumble the hardware e.g., screws and nuts? They come out beautifully.
No just in the ultrasonic
Thank you for this video! I jumped right in on my own disablembly. However I can not easily remove the part at 11:47 (starter valve?) (after the you remove the spring). I have 2 of these stuck and unable to move as well as the Pump rods. These do not want to come out any advise for "stuck " parts?
Glad it helped! They can be a bit corroded, spray some antirust or nut release liquid on it and let it sit for a day or so.. if none of all that works , you could place the entire carb into an ultrasonic bath ... that helps often
Hello are you available for a question?
Of course, will try to help
how do i disable my cold start circuit, and block the fuel?
For that you can find blanking panels, or make one yourself...
@@D3Sshooter can they leak causing an untunable rich mixture ?
As in it smells real rich no matter what I do . Is there a way to check? I saw a video of a guy that soldered the jet tip closed then predrilled smaller. Can I just solder the jet closed?
Video's like this make me worry about our internet security. If the Chinese take this man's videos down I'm kicking ass and taking names over there xi jinping
Normaal dat de auto vierkant draait met zo carburators 🤪
Ja inderdaad, wat een soep hebben ze ervan gemaakt
That float is brass not copper.Copper being kind of too soft on it own.
Thanks for the comments, brass or copper ... i need to check the meaning but i do get your point as Brass is hard copper right ?
Brass is a alloy of copper and zinc, which makes it a lot stronger and less prone to metal fatigue . But copper has been used as floats ,but is also heaver
You forgot to put a nut before hitting, I suppose
He is using a "gentle" mallet, so ..
@@XPbIM3 but the thread is gone
Yep, it is and it already was gone before I started,, infact the nut was false treated on the shaft...
@D3Sshooter, is it safe to use "carburetor cleaner" (spray can, like this: gunk.com/product/gunk-carb-medic-m4814c/) to clean all parts of a Weber 40 DCOE carb? I'm concerned about possibly harming any of metal (body, jets, pump, etc.). Also, what kind of brush can I use to avoid scratching any of the parts? Thanks in advance
I always use brake cleaner , that works great and if you need a brush , use a very soft brush. Off course ultrasonic cleaning is the best method
Between my ultrasonic cleaner and my baking soda blaster, I can make carbs look like brand new. Baking soda in a handheld sandblaster is ideal for cleaning aluminum and zinc carb bodies. It will clean and remove corrosion without damaging the base metal, and will dissolve away with plain water. For those float pins, I use a spring loaded center punch to pop them out. Much safer than a hammer. Breaking one of those pivot posts off will quickly ruin your day.....
Thanks for the comments, and indeed great tips
I'm currently in the weber dcoe research phase. I plan to eventually install triple 40's on a 240Z. I can't begin to tell you how much your 2 videos have enlightened me and answered the questions I had about these mythical hunks of aluminum! The pace you explained everything and the detailed explanations are beyond appreciated. Looking forward to seeing your next tuning video. I hope you go into the knitty gritty on what to watch/listen for when the motor is running. Thank you again! Bravo!
txs for the comments more to come this week on the jetting and good luck with yours
adds adds adds adds
Thanks for your extremely exhaustive video, he is as professional as ever. Greetings from Sicily.
Many thanks!
Is there anyone that offers a mail in rebuild service? Great video sir.
Maybe , I should start doing that kind of work....
I would send mine to you. Im stumped on my 40mm dcoe's. The choke circuit area seems to have a blocker plate and no gear lever choke plate assy. Its blocked off. And there's just a square steel lug with no spring behind the brass retainer ring up top. Looks different from the one you are working on.
Spain
40 dcoe151
295 7
87 Suzuki samurai gypsy sierra
I hope you don’t mind me messaging you. I’m after some advice…..
I came across your video regarding the Weber DCOE on RUclips following a Google search trying to find a solution for a problem I’ve stupidly created for myself.
I have a 1400 Vauxhall engine that I use in a my race car which has a pair of Weber 40 DCOE carbs.
I had a problem with the starter motor and upon changing I wanted to fire the car up and make sure all was Ok.
In a nutshell I stupidly grabbed the first fuel can I found and out of the 9 we keep in the trailer box 1 of them has diesel in. Yes, you guess it. I fuelled up with diesel.
The car wouldn’t start at all but I was pumping the throttle a fair bit. I checked spark and then cracked the nut on the fuel inlet union on one of the carbs which is when I’d realised my error. I’ve pumped all the fuel from the fuel tank and lines and changed the filter and now purged the fuel line through so that’s all just petrol. However I’m going to assume the carb is now full of diesel.
Am I likely to have damaged anything? And what’s my best course of action. Is there a way to drain the fuel out of the carb. From looking at your rebuild video I wondered if taking off the square plate on the bottom of the carb (held on by 4 screws might do the trick)
Any advise would be greayfully received
hello again, we finally discovered that the inside channels -where fuel flows- of the main Weber DCOE45 body are not enough cleaned/free of fuel gum, so how long should I treat it with brake cleaner in case I can't get access to an ultrasonic cleaner. How I identify if its ready, couse the engine don't rise up R.P.M.'s
Get a set of hollow ground screwdrivers they are worth it.
Or just use the bits meant for battery drill, they work almost as good because the way they are ground
Thanks for the comments, good points txs
Why are things so complicated? I understand why you take everything apart now.
Great videos, thank you! The plates with 2 holes that cover the springs and leather seals next to the bearings are really stuck in my carbs. I've sprayed penetrating oil in, heated up with hot air gun, etc. They won't budge. Any ideas? What if I pressed the throttle shaft through to push out both the bearing and the cover plate?
I had a simular problem once and punched out on a small press , it did damage the spindle.. but I did got new once. You can try to put in the ultra sonic cleaner... that works sometimes
An automatic center punch with the punch ground to fit the hole size needed will work very well without using a hammer,in fact if a small very obtuse angle is ground on the tip it will hold center on the first few punches without mushrooming the pin also the pin will be of a reasonably hardened steel to avoid it wearing too quick which would cause bad fueling.
thanks for the comments, and good a tip
Great videos and good technical issues, but I would like to know how can I disassembly the pump piston that is fully stucked, when trying to take it over I think the pump rod went broken. Thanks !!!
Thanks for the comments
Another nice video! I love old classic cars and i'm learning English therefore, your videos are twice useful for me :) Your explanations are really clear and i love your pedantic approach to restoration and repair. Hello from Russia! :)
Glad you like them! Thank you for the comments
Awesome video as always! I want a project car now ;)
You can hawe my old volvo 245...
You should! Thanks for the comments
Morning Steve. I could watch you every day as your explaining technique is just fantastic 😀 Keep safe and have a lovely weekend cheers Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Thank you kindly
The float is brass , never bend the float adjust fuel level with different thickness gasket under the needle and seat
Thanks for the comments, indeed and thanks for reminding
I have done a few of these but I have one where one of the chokes is stuck. It comes to the end of the tube but that's it. Any suggestions?
Dump the carb in a warm ultrasonic bath... That loosens up often
Thanks for your great videos. I have a question. In my carburetor the shaft with the butterfly does not rotate due to some chemical corrosion (2 different metals: steel shaft and aluminum housing, plus moister). Could you recommend something to try to solve this problem?
Thanks for the comments , well take the shaft out and get it all polished , then apply aviation grease /insulator on it . That will create a film between the parts
@@D3Sshooter Thanks for your reply. The problem is that I can not get out the shaft because it is seized. Do you have any other idea what to try? Thanks.
Thanks..... well done
Loved every second restoring the cirvette
txs
float: brass
No. 2 video as excellent as first. Thanks.
👍
Not a road side job then...
Thanks for the comments, not really
Clear and precise, good video
Glad it was helpful!
There's a much easier way to remove the throttle shaft. No need to use a press. Before removing throttle plate screws grind off the peened over end using a dremel and small carbide tip. Screws come out much easier after doing this and lessens the chance of damage to threads in throttle shaft. You also do not need to remove the bearing retaining caps first with circlip pliers or use heat. After removing the end nuts and throttle arms spray into the bearing area penetrating fluid and let it sit for a while. After that hold the carburettor body in one hand and tap the end of the shaft with a plastic or leather hammer. Shaft will then move and push the bearing and retainer out together on the other side. Repeat on the other side of the shaft. Job done. Don't bash it on one side whilst resting the body on a socket on the other side. You'll dent and marr the body where it rests on the socket. Just holding the body in your hand whilst tapping the end of the shaft is sufficient.
Thanks for the comments and tips
👍👍🇦🇺
Im currently binge watching some of your videos 😅👍
Glad you like them!
Thank You great explain!
You are welcome!
Awesome! :)
Thank you! Cheers!
Great job done! It will run great again!😎
Hope so! Thanks for the comments