Cheers Derek. I read this article in the mag when it arrived. This was the way we had always done it trying to make sure the end of the hose was squarely cut and if you cannot find the isolotor getting a good shock off the ignition ( ask the apprentice to hold it) no seriously that is frowned on now. Ordered my test point as soon I finished watching this video
A lot of cookers come with a working pressure extended injector on the grill or oven. Great for doing hobs though. Thanks for taking the time to make the video 👍
Derek, i use that exact same manometer you have. Probably the most reliable one ive ever used. Just buy a new one every year for calibration and for price, its a steal
Thank you for this video. I am dealing with a gas range and no dam port after the gas regulator on the range. And I don't know reg bad or malfunctioning oven burner. So I ordered two of those test adapters, one for backup. Again thank you.
Hi, shouldn't be 3 burners lit and 1 under test? I saw you've done it with 2 burners lit the third on under test and 4th off. Did I never get it right?
i once did that test over the injector using the rubber hose and the chap who was testing me told me that it wasnt a proper way for testing inlet pressures.so whats changed?
It’s testing operation pressure not inlet because it’s after the gas tap. It’s always been done like this as long as I have been in gas which is a long time now I guess it’s just been brought out because engineers must be turning appliances off because of no test point when they shouldn’t be doing.
@@tomkatgastraining I'll bring this up next year at the center.ive my renewals in around 10 months. I'm talking nearly 10 years ago now when I got told I couldn't do it like that. Interesting to see what he says when I bring it up.
Check it the good old fashioned way. Unscrew the jet, turn cooker knob to minimum, light the gas and turn knob to max. Flame should be at least 1000mm high.
if there is an FSD then you would have to hold down the control knob of the burner you are using to connect the manometer to this is necessary to allow the gas to go into the manometer.
Don't think I've had cause to criticise you before, but, and Don't see this as a negative comment. Firstly, attempting to attach a uguage hose to an injector is ABSOLUTELY a NO DO!! Best test nipple is as used by Calor engineers, but the one you used is fine, just nip it up or use gas tape to ensure finger tight leak free. Calor nipple has neoprene washer, so is only designed for minimal tightening. If testing hob only, testing with three burners lit at full rate is the requirement,which leaves the fourth and ideally the smallest available for fitting the adaptor. Where a fifth burner, (eg Wok burner) or even more then obviously to arrive at an accurate pressure drop, this needs to be taken I to consideration. With regard to the usual fith burner on hobs, the pressure drop will often surprise. With cookers the effect ovens/ grills have on pressure drops also needs to be considered. With regard to LPG, if no meter is installed, usual on single dwellings, there will always, or should be an outlet test point. To quote Mikey Pipes ( check out his utube channel, it's great) if you ain't testing, your guessing. Just a little extra advice for anyone thinking of getting into LPG, orange rubber hoses quickly get devoured by the Gas.
@@tomkatgastraining I've watched the video twice since your response, and have to say if I where a trainee or inexperienced in the industry, I would be confused. TB161 ,in my humble opinion, and I've just read it again, it's very badly presented. Regardless of one's interpretation of TB161, I stand by my way of confirming, lack of gas rating ability withstanding, is a safer and more reliable way confirming compliance. Testing working pressure on a cooker with two burners operating doesn't cut it for me. Cooking appliances have to operate, as with all appliances as designed. Please read my comments again, and if you conclude I'm missing something, I'm always open to discussion.
@@johnward5006 like I said in the video if I had used all for rings doing the test on the cookers injector I would probably set myself on fire. Yes you are correct I should have used 3 rings on doing the test but I know some cookers only say use one other ring and others say 2 like I did. At the end of the day again like I say in the video it’s not needed for Nat gas most of the time as you can do working pressure at the meter gas rate and put other appliances on to test the flame picture. Lpg though is a different matter. Sorry I disappointed you with this video but it was only for make engineers aware of the tb and to get over to trainees that it can be dangerous if you use a u gauge or a small injector. I will try harder next time 😋
Understand absolutely Derek, will speak to Gas Safe after Easter for clarification. Again Gas Safe cover their rear ends with such poor quality offerings. If I'd written this bulletin, I'd make it clear that pressure loss and flame picture and if possible Gas rating would be mandatory. To suggest appliance working pressure testing needs clarification is a sad reflection on a highly regulated industry. When I first embarked on LPG training in 1968, Test nipples were the norm Any Gas engineer who doesn't have an injector adaptor is categorically not being serious.
lpg. no unburned being leaked. is that why they brought this in? or did someone really put themself on fire?............. why are you only using 2 burners? i always tested with 3 on and 4rth as test point? with all appliances running at max if there was no external test point. anyway im happy if im wrong i overkilled it. sorry don't do ebay
Working pressure at the meter is yes 3 biggest rings running I had 2 running and used the 3rd to get the readings as the manufacturers don’t give the pressure readings. Some cooker manufacturers only require one ring running while you are taking the readings others 2. As the technician bulletin said the rings running will depend on the cooker manufacturers. Also didn’t want to set myself on fire while doing it 😜
im a dumbass and cant spell.. we test at the applance right? the whole point is that all appliances have enough gas to work at their air gas mixtures right? third ring was static right?
@@tomkatgastraining you degress my point was you should have had three rings burning. right? and all appliences running at max. and then used a test point be it at the nipple or on the pipework............ i'll go read up. i know i'm probably wrong. you lot run a gas place in manchester that accredits people. buy better glass manomiters? they have a cross you have at the bottom that stabalizes the u gauge. wind blew mine over once. cost me a replacement glass tube........ and it doesnt need calibrating. thank you for your uploads as always.
@@markchristohperowen6806 because of the way meters and pipes are sized you don’t have to have all the other appliances running at the same time it now says to have a maximum of 3.5 m3 and a minimum of 0.5m3 running when testing at the meter. So unless you have concerns about an appliance you need to check the pipe sizing and operation. So when testing a cooker you have the 3 biggest rings running and check at the meter you have 21mbs +/- 2 mbrs no need to have all the others running unless you think the pipe is undersized then you put the smallest cooker ring on low then turn on the boiler at max and see if it affects the safe operation of the appliances ie incomplete combustion or flame going out. I hope that answers your questions
I've never seen in 23 years no meter on a natural gas supply. I see your trying to hint at LPG but I'm not aiming at that because that has no relevance to me or my work. One time you shear the injector and I've seen it happen, you're standing to the cost of a new cooker simple as.
I’m on a contract where they’ve replaced electric cookers with gas cookers and just tee’d off the gas pipe for the boiler, the gas cooker gas rates fine but when I test the inlet pressure with the boiler running it’s a fail. So In my opinion some situations require this test.
Your videos are excellent. Thank you
Thank you for your efforts
Great work DEREK
Great video Derek once again & well explained. Nice little gadget to buy if we need to test on the cookers safely.. Thanks for the update.. 👍😁
Thanks Derek great video
Great informative video, thanks for the effort making these videos. 👍👍👍🇬🇧
purchased 2 of them in the end.fantastic little gadget. thanks for this vid. great help.
Cheers Derek. I read this article in the mag when it arrived. This was the way we had always done it trying to make sure the end of the hose was squarely cut and if you cannot find the isolotor getting a good shock off the ignition ( ask the apprentice to hold it) no seriously that is frowned on now. Ordered my test point as soon I finished watching this video
lpg no leakeage.
Thank you Derek
Great video thanks for your efforts 👍☺️
A lot of cookers come with a working pressure extended injector on the grill or oven. Great for doing hobs though. Thanks for taking the time to make the video 👍
Interesting as always 👍
Derek, i use that exact same manometer you have. Probably the most reliable one ive ever used. Just buy a new one every year for calibration and for price, its a steal
Been using then for a couple of years.. Great little gadget
Got mine from Hamilton Gas.
Cheers Derek.
Thanks, hope Tom Kat and all the viewers are having a good long weekend easter break.
Been using the screw in test nipple for about 18 months for cookers. Bought of eBay.👍🏻
Thank you for this video. I am dealing with a gas range and no dam port after the gas regulator on the range. And I don't know reg bad or malfunctioning oven burner. So I ordered two of those test adapters, one for backup. Again thank you.
Brilliant sir
Thanks for this video, ordering one now, will make life a lot easier and yes that electric shock is never fun!
Brilliant as always Derek.
Can I suggest a video on gas fires. On how to identify the different types etc
I like this idea, I'll start. If it sounds like a runaway freight train and is orange, it's the acetylene cylinder the apprentice just brought inside.
Great video. Well explained. If I ever have to carry out this test, I’ll just come and watch this free video again 😎. Thanks Derek 👍🏻
Asian Jon.
Can we have a link to that injector test point over 5£?
What monometer are you using to wirelessly connect to your phone?
I made a test point from 4” of 8mm copper and a spare injector.
Is this test the same for just a gas hob eg a 5 burner gas hob
Link please to the gas test adapter please Del
Hi, shouldn't be 3 burners lit and 1 under test? I saw you've done it with 2 burners lit the third on under test and 4th off. Did I never get it right?
Wouldn't the FSD on the burner stop the gas coming to the burner your testing?
Can anyone give me ebay links to buy this injector extension please.
Thanks Derek top video as usual what eBay shop did you get them from.
Not a clue Kate ordered it for me 😋
@@tomkatgastraining what did they put in the search engine please
@@viratpatel375 gas hob jet pressure test point
Really need a cooker service one like removing oven burners
👍Sue Warrington
Where do you get the test nipple adaptor from?
Fantastic and informative as always
Thank you
Anyone got a link
👍👍
i once did that test over the injector using the rubber hose and the chap who was testing me told me that it wasnt a proper way for testing inlet pressures.so whats changed?
It’s testing operation pressure not inlet because it’s after the gas tap. It’s always been done like this as long as I have been in gas which is a long time now I guess it’s just been brought out because engineers must be turning appliances off because of no test point when they shouldn’t be doing.
@@tomkatgastraining I'll bring this up next year at the center.ive my renewals in around 10 months. I'm talking nearly 10 years ago now when I got told I couldn't do it like that. Interesting to see what he says when I bring it up.
Check it the good old fashioned way. Unscrew the jet, turn cooker knob to minimum, light the gas and turn knob to max. Flame should be at least 1000mm high.
👍👍👍👌
What about if there is FSD on cooker.
What about it the video is testing the inlet pressure not safety device
if there is an FSD then you would have to hold down the control knob of the burner you are using to connect the manometer to this is necessary to allow the gas to go into the manometer.
Artur Przybyl
The problem starts when there's FSDs .....which most have now
Governor not right. Max standing pressure is 25 m bar. ?
No it’s not it’s 19 to 30 mbrs 25 mbrs is probably about the average
Daniel carragher
I’ve just decided I’m not going to fit any more gas cookers 😂
Why ?
Are the threads the same on every cooker ?
I've all ways wondered why we test with three burners on full and not all of them .
@@mgbroadsterJ because the other is where you put your gauge to test which is on to give you a reading but not lit. Unless you have a 5 burner hob
Muhammed Ali
🤘😎🤘😱😂😂😂💪💪
Don't think I've had cause to criticise you before, but, and Don't see this as a negative comment.
Firstly, attempting to attach a uguage hose to an injector is ABSOLUTELY a NO DO!!
Best test nipple is as used by Calor engineers, but the one you used is fine, just nip it up or use gas tape to ensure finger tight leak free.
Calor nipple has neoprene washer, so is only designed for minimal tightening.
If testing hob only, testing with three burners lit at full rate is the requirement,which leaves the fourth and ideally the smallest available for fitting the adaptor.
Where a fifth burner, (eg Wok burner) or even more then obviously to arrive at an accurate pressure drop, this needs to be taken I to consideration.
With regard to the usual fith burner
on hobs, the pressure drop will often surprise.
With cookers the effect ovens/ grills have on pressure drops also needs to be considered.
With regard to LPG, if no meter is installed, usual on single dwellings, there will always, or should be an outlet test point.
To quote Mikey Pipes ( check out his utube channel, it's great) if you ain't testing, your guessing.
Just a little extra advice for anyone thinking of getting into LPG, orange rubber hoses quickly get devoured by the Gas.
Don’t want to criticise your comment but guess you didn’t watch the full video then 🙄
@@tomkatgastraining
I've watched the video twice since your response, and have to say if I where a trainee or inexperienced in the industry, I would be confused.
TB161 ,in my humble opinion, and I've just read it again, it's very badly presented.
Regardless of one's interpretation of TB161, I stand by my way of confirming, lack of gas rating ability withstanding, is a safer and more reliable way confirming compliance.
Testing working pressure on a cooker with two burners operating doesn't cut it for me.
Cooking appliances have to operate, as with all appliances as designed.
Please read my comments again, and if you conclude I'm missing something, I'm always open to discussion.
@@johnward5006 like I said in the video if I had used all for rings doing the test on the cookers injector I would probably set myself on fire. Yes you are correct I should have used 3 rings on doing the test but I know some cookers only say use one other ring and others say 2 like I did. At the end of the day again like I say in the video it’s not needed for Nat gas most of the time as you can do working pressure at the meter gas rate and put other appliances on to test the flame picture. Lpg though is a different matter. Sorry I disappointed you with this video but it was only for make engineers aware of the tb and to get over to trainees that it can be dangerous if you use a u gauge or a small injector. I will try harder next time 😋
@@tomkatgastraining understand Derek, will clarify
Understand absolutely Derek, will speak to Gas Safe after Easter for clarification.
Again Gas Safe cover their rear ends with such poor quality offerings.
If I'd written this bulletin, I'd make it clear that pressure loss and flame picture and if possible Gas rating would be mandatory.
To suggest appliance working pressure testing needs clarification is a sad reflection on a highly regulated industry.
When I first embarked on LPG training in 1968,
Test nipples were the norm
Any Gas engineer who doesn't have an injector adaptor is categorically not being serious.
Gas cooker pressure test point. LOL
lpg. no unburned being leaked. is that why they brought this in? or did someone really put themself on fire?............. why are you only using 2 burners? i always tested with 3 on and 4rth as test point? with all appliances running at max if there was no external test point. anyway im happy if im wrong i overkilled it.
sorry don't do ebay
Working pressure at the meter is yes 3 biggest rings running I had 2 running and used the 3rd to get the readings as the manufacturers don’t give the pressure readings. Some cooker manufacturers only require one ring running while you are taking the readings others 2. As the technician bulletin said the rings running will depend on the cooker manufacturers. Also didn’t want to set myself on fire while doing it 😜
im a dumbass and cant spell.. we test at the applance right? the whole point is that all appliances have enough gas to work at their air gas mixtures right? third ring was static right?
@@markchristohperowen6806 correct we are always trying to achieve complete combustion because if we don’t people could die of co poisoning
@@tomkatgastraining you degress my point was you should have had three rings burning. right? and all appliences running at max. and then used a test point be it at the nipple or on the pipework............ i'll go read up. i know i'm probably wrong. you lot run a gas place in manchester that accredits people.
buy better glass manomiters? they have a cross you have at the bottom that stabalizes the u gauge. wind blew mine over once. cost me a replacement glass tube........ and it doesnt need calibrating.
thank you for your uploads as always.
@@markchristohperowen6806 because of the way meters and pipes are sized you don’t have to have all the other appliances running at the same time it now says to have a maximum of 3.5 m3 and a minimum of 0.5m3 running when testing at the meter. So unless you have concerns about an appliance you need to check the pipe sizing and operation. So when testing a cooker you have the 3 biggest rings running and check at the meter you have 21mbs +/- 2 mbrs no need to have all the others running unless you think the pipe is undersized then you put the smallest cooker ring on low then turn on the boiler at max and see if it affects the safe operation of the appliances ie incomplete combustion or flame going out. I hope that answers your questions
i never understand why a gas 'ENGINEER' cant make the same part. I did 15 years ago
Probably because it’s cheaper to buy one and most of us don’t have lathes
Can't you just gas rate it
Im glad our currency doesnt weigh pounds in the u.s. especially with inflation.
Gas rate is best way forget this as a sole trader. One time the injector shears off your buying a new cooker for someone.
What if no meter then you can’t gas rate
I've never seen in 23 years no meter on a natural gas supply. I see your trying to hint at LPG but I'm not aiming at that because that has no relevance to me or my work. One time you shear the injector and I've seen it happen, you're standing to the cost of a new cooker simple as.
@@theengineeroilsafe279 it’s all about lpg or if you think the pipe is undersized also didn’t you watch the end of the video
Why not just gas rate instead.
What if there is no meter like on most lpg insulations
@@tomkatgastraining True, I don't do LPG tho 😄
I’m on a contract where they’ve replaced electric cookers with gas cookers and just tee’d off the gas pipe for the boiler, the gas cooker gas rates fine but when I test the inlet pressure with the boiler running it’s a fail. So In my opinion some situations require this test.
@@jamesasprey2092 completely agree
Weld a piece of pipe over an old jet
It's always been a rubbish way of testing pressure.