Gorgeous weather Teo......summer is coming for you. Winter is coming for me......but really the Winter in Queensland is the envy of most of the world....!!! I am 1 week from launching my new boat so you will get to see some Winter sailing from Australia soon. I like your lazy jacks, I think I will put some in my boat too. Jason
Thanks Teo. I sail a Beth sailing canoe, which also carries a balanced lugsail and was designed by Michael Storer. Right now it takes me a good 20 minutes to rig it, but after seeing this video I think I can make the process much faster. And I agree - lazy jacks are really useful, and adapting the boat is half the fun.
I can’t imagine why anyone who actually has sailed with a lug and needed to reef in a chop would say lazy jacks are too complicated or not necessary. It tends to make me to question their experience really. In any case, great rig, looking forward to seeing your Goat back on the water!
I have been meaning to put lazy jacks on for some time...they seem like a good idea, but it is only occasionally that I would (really!) appreciate them - so they are not there yet. I have my tack reefing on a line so I don't have to go up front on my 12' pram while on the water - it is very tippy up there!
Love the way you think, modify how you want for your needs, people may laugh & later see the sense of your modification & probably claim the idea as their own We all know the type of person this applies to.
I really enjoy your videos. They are informative, straightforward, based on experience. This series was especially timely as I am preparing to rig a gaffer at our volunteer shop. Good sailing to you this summer!
I agree with your points of view. Choosing your preferences is great, and just the opposite of the one design concept. I've got a 747 but mine is not one design, because I've got 70 extra kilograms of lead in a bigger bulb in order to sail with a crew of four instead of five. I had to add more sail aerea because, for the new bulb and some other unknown reasons, my boat weigths 1230 kilograms instead of 1070 which is the minimum weight of the 747 o.d. class, so got a square mainsail and two backstays with deflectors, a light genoa 1, besides the class genoa 2 and the class Solent jib. I didn't get the class asymmetric spinnaker, instead I've got a code zero for reaching, and a spinnaker pole besides the class bowsprit, to be able to bring the tack of a new topmast asymmetric spinnaker to winward, and be able to fly a topmast symmetric and a smaller symmetric at 5/8 also. By the way... No lazy jacks fitted, not yet. Do you recommend me to fit them, or it may develop a troublesome because I must remove the main everytime I,m back from sailing? Thank you very much for sharing your projects, and...It's been a pleasure to watch all your videos. Congratulations!
Thank you Jose! I'm not familiar with the rigging on the 747 so I don't know how much of a problem it could create for you. On my Skiff they are always on even when I remove the mast.
Thx, helpful! I'll be redoing my reef system soon with this in mind. Question: my Really Simple Sails GIS sail came with numerous grommets at the foot. Are you saying that even when I sail with a full sail that I should be loose footed?
Hi, nice to hear from you again! My sail is always loose footed. A loose footed sail is more powerful and the depth can be more efficiently adjusted while maintaining the proper sail shape. But to do this you need a very stiff boom that won't bend or even break in strong winds. Have fun! 😉
Oi Teo. Eu não entendi como os dois lazy jacks viram um cabo só para caçar no pé de mastro. Sei que o lazy jack não pode ser justo também para a verga não bater onde os dois cabos do lazy viram um e assim não deixar a vela encher. Se puder me ajudar desde já agradeço.
Os dois cabos dos lazyjacks vão lá acima ao mastro, entram na manilha e descem mais 3 metros, depois são apenas amarrados a um cabo unico mais grosso para ser mais facil manusear, é só isso! Eu tento ter os lazyjacks ajustados de maneira que quando desço a vela a retranca fica a 5cm da borda do barco para poder rodar sem bater em nada. Quando subo a vela isso normalmente dá folga suficiente para não interferir com o saco da vela, a não ser que tenha a vela com saco maximo.
Another great video... Thanks Teo! Question.. which kind of line (polipropilene, nylon, spectra..) you use for lazy Jacks? And for the thin white lines you clip with the carabiner at the end of the boom for reefing?
Hi Enrico! The lazyjacks are made of a few different lines I already had. But I believe the white line which comes down to the cleat is 4mm polipropilene, the blue ones on each side of the mast are 2.5mm double braided, and the two "Vs" are single braided 3mm Polipropilene or Poliamide (same as the reef ties) i'm not sure tbh. The "dog bones" that go from clews to the carabiner are made from 3mm pre-stretched Spectra/Dyneema.(info on part_1) At the tack end the loops are made of 3mm spliced spectra
Probably too much to do anything but run!! I suspect where I sail with that much wind the chop would make it impossible to go anywhere but with the wind!
Hi Teo, thanks for your videos! Could you please make available some information about the pulleys, ropes and other main gear you use for the rig? I see that some of your pulleys are Harken, but it would really help to know the sizes, also of the main sheet etc. you think work best with this setup. Many thanks in advance and happy sailing!
Hi Ben! You are right my pulleys are mainly Harken 30mm and a 40mm for the halyard (I already had these from previous dinghies). The Ratchet block is also Harken 57mm (again, had it already). At the top of the mast I have an Allen Eazy Tie 20mm block, and on the outhaul a Barton size0 cheek block. The outhaul is just 5mm double braided poly. The Halyard is 5mm spectra with outer poly sleeve. Sail corners tied to the yard with 3mm Spectra and around the yard with single braided 3mm poly. Mainsheet is Kingfisher’s Evolution 8mm. Traveller is 6mm double braided poly, Tiller lock is now 3mm single braided Spectra. Downhaul is 4 mm Double braided poly on the 4:1(Barton's 30mm double blocks) and 60 cm of 4mm Spectra for the x2 (Harken 30mm) top pulley to make a 8:1 downhaul. Reefing loops and dog bones are 3mm Spectra. Bleater is 5mm Spectra. Reef ties single braided 3mm poly. Lazyjacks are made of 3mm and 4mm Poly line. I think this should cover most of it.. If you want the official BoM for the GIS scroll down on this page. www.storerboatplans.com/tuning/lug-rig-setup/goat-island-skiff-rig-and-rigging-details-for-efficient-lug-sails/ Have fun 😉
Surely not twice the weight. The heaviest addition would have been the side seats, which I love and would build into mine from ths start. I see them as a safety feature adding bouyancy, ease of righting after a capsize as well comfort. I love lazy jacks and fit them ti every boat, even my small beach cat. They are so simple cheap and improve riggng and allow the sail to be dropped when swimming or fishing. I cant see them hurting eacing performance at all.
Hi Frank! My GIS was built using Birch plywood which is 30% heavier than Okoume. Add to that 3 hatches, the extended and watertight mid seat, the side benches, and the hull gets to 110Kg. That's double the weight of the lightest built GIS. You can see me weighting and explaining what weights what on this video: ruclips.net/video/WGSrhVVWu6w/видео.html Cheers Teo
Hi Denis! If you have a look at Rigging_Part_1 you can see it in more detail. But simply put is a line that holds the boom close to the mast and also prevents the boom from moving forward if the downhaul is placed a bit aft of the mast. This allows me to control Luff/Leech tension with just the downhaul.
Hi Teo, I still don't understand why it's necessary to fully lower the sail to reef it. Have you seen the rigging video for the SCAMP? It's here: ruclips.net/video/BLTYt5Tt6Go/видео.html It includes some clever reefing ideas for the balanced lug sail and interestingly he does not bother to fully lower the sail for the reefing demonstration. Maybe this wouldn't work in actual reefing weather? I do have to say though that each time you tell us reefing is easy, by the time you have gone through all the steps, I am having second thoughts about a balanced lug sail. That doesn't seem easy to me. If I need to reef I want it over and done with in 15 seconds at the absolute outside. That's a situation where you are uncomfortable with the conditions and what to take control again. I want the amount of time and thought required in that half and half stage with no control and no propulsion or steering to be short.
Hi Brendan! You are talking of two completely different boats. The Scamp is heavier and ballasted and the GIS is really light, (if you point to wind and sit on the gunwale it will capsize!) I had seen that video before and although the system seems quite good I don't think it would work "as is" on the GIS. On that video it takes over 1 minute just for Tack and Clew, not even reefing ties. Even if you can reduce that time by half (with ties) I can't see the GIS pointing dead straight at the wind for 10 seconds let alone 30 seconds. It would just turn around and with all that sail up as soon as the winds hits the sail the boom would want to go over the gunwales and I'm afraid a capsize would surely occur! I want the least sail area exposed to the wind as possible while reefing. Also by tensioning the clew line that much it just takes away the most important feature of a Loose footed sail...the loose foot!! I'm sure it could be adapted to some degree but I can't really comment on that because I haven't tried it. Maybe I can make a video reefing just Tack and Clew on the GIS and we can clock it....But the sail will always have to come down on my system.
Thanks Teo, good answer. And I suppose the answer I expected. It wouldn't work in that weather. It would be very interesting to see how a practical reef on the water goes without tying in the reefing lines. Not so much to clock it as to see how complex or simple it is and whether it gets you flustered. Have you considered some form of loop and button or soft shackle for the reefing lines? I get your point about the tensioned loose foot. I do like their idea of having the gear for two reefs on two side of the sail, but it obviously has limitations too. Oh yeah, only a few more mods to go and you will have a "Long Scamp" ;)
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Teo you hit the nail on the head at 12:30. Making the boat your own and making your own modifications is where the fun is at. Well said mate!!!
Gorgeous weather Teo......summer is coming for you. Winter is coming for me......but really the Winter in Queensland is the envy of most of the world....!!! I am 1 week from launching my new boat so you will get to see some Winter sailing from Australia soon. I like your lazy jacks, I think I will put some in my boat too. Jason
Loving your DIY philosophy, learning and modding and trying things out is a big part of the hobby for me too.
Great modifications. The key is to always keep things simple.......and you are doing a great job at that. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Teo. I sail a Beth sailing canoe, which also carries a balanced lugsail and was designed by Michael Storer. Right now it takes me a good 20 minutes to rig it, but after seeing this video I think I can make the process much faster. And I agree - lazy jacks are really useful, and adapting the boat is half the fun.
I fully agree on your way for DIY to suit own needs and there is no perfect boat.
very imformative. i was a kid messing around with a sunfish, too much fun. learning the ropes, pun intended.
I can’t imagine why anyone who actually has sailed with a lug and needed to reef in a chop would say lazy jacks are too complicated or not necessary. It tends to make me to question their experience really.
In any case, great rig, looking forward to seeing your Goat back on the water!
Thank You!
My GIS was supposed to go in the water last weekend but due to awful weather the transportation was delayed. 😬
I have been meaning to put lazy jacks on for some time...they seem like a good idea, but it is only occasionally that I would (really!) appreciate them - so they are not there yet. I have my tack reefing on a line so I don't have to go up front on my 12' pram while on the water - it is very tippy up there!
Greetings from Australia. I am setting up my Goat at the moment and I reckon your videos and ideas are excellent.
Thanks a lot Teo.
Fantastic!
I'm glad you find the videos are helpful! 😉
Loves your Goat skiff❤
Really good demonstration! I don't know much about sailing and I was easily able to understand it.
Thanks for the feedback Kenni! 😉
As long as it's effective it doesn't matter if it's crude! Really nice video! Best regards!
Thanks André! 😉
Love the way you think, modify how you want for your needs, people may laugh & later see the sense of your modification & probably claim the idea as their own We all know the type of person this applies to.
Hi Bruce!
If ppl find anything in my videos worth copying (either they admit it or not) I'll be happy about it! Not looking to register any patent! 😁
@@TheBoatRambler Yep, love the way you think
Thank you for posting this...Great video, great philosophy on sailing/rigging/building...cheers
Glad you enjoyed it!
I really enjoy your videos. They are informative, straightforward, based on experience. This series was especially timely as I am preparing to rig a gaffer at our volunteer shop. Good sailing to you this summer!
Thanks Paul!
I'm glad you enjoyed it.
All the best!
Teo
Very nice and useful video! Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Well done👍👍👍.
Thanks 👍
I agree with your points of view. Choosing your preferences is great, and just the opposite of the one design concept.
I've got a 747 but mine is not one design, because I've got 70 extra kilograms of lead in a bigger bulb in order to sail with a crew of four instead of five.
I had to add more sail aerea because, for the new bulb and some other unknown reasons, my boat weigths 1230 kilograms instead of 1070 which is the minimum weight of the 747 o.d. class, so got a square mainsail and two backstays with deflectors, a light genoa 1, besides the class genoa 2 and the class Solent jib. I didn't get the class asymmetric spinnaker, instead I've got a code zero for reaching, and a spinnaker pole besides the class bowsprit, to be able to bring the tack of a new topmast asymmetric spinnaker to winward, and be able to fly a topmast symmetric and a smaller symmetric at 5/8 also.
By the way... No lazy jacks fitted, not yet. Do you recommend me to fit them, or it may develop a troublesome because I must remove the main everytime I,m back from sailing?
Thank you very much for sharing your projects, and...It's been a pleasure to watch all your videos.
Congratulations!
Thank you Jose!
I'm not familiar with the rigging on the 747 so I don't know how much of a problem it could create for you.
On my Skiff they are always on even when I remove the mast.
thanks dude! really appreciate your tips and rigging vids - Cheers!
Thank you Shane!
Thx, helpful! I'll be redoing my reef system soon with this in mind. Question: my Really Simple Sails GIS sail came with numerous grommets at the foot. Are you saying that even when I sail with a full sail that I should be loose footed?
Hi, nice to hear from you again!
My sail is always loose footed. A loose footed sail is more powerful and the depth can be more efficiently adjusted while maintaining the proper sail shape. But to do this you need a very stiff boom that won't bend or even break in strong winds.
Have fun! 😉
Oi Teo. Eu não entendi como os dois lazy jacks viram um cabo só para caçar no pé de mastro. Sei que o lazy jack não pode ser justo também para a verga não bater onde os dois cabos do lazy viram um e assim não deixar a vela encher.
Se puder me ajudar desde já agradeço.
Os dois cabos dos lazyjacks vão lá acima ao mastro, entram na manilha e descem mais 3 metros, depois são apenas amarrados a um cabo unico mais grosso para ser mais facil manusear, é só isso! Eu tento ter os lazyjacks ajustados de maneira que quando desço a vela a retranca fica a 5cm da borda do barco para poder rodar sem bater em nada. Quando subo a vela isso normalmente dá folga suficiente para não interferir com o saco da vela, a não ser que tenha a vela com saco maximo.
@@TheBoatRambler eu imaginei isso depois de perguntar. Muito obrigado! Bons ventos para você.
keep them coming. enjoying your videos. Obrigado
Thank you for watching! 😄
WOW NICE!
l realy like your informative videos and your view. Congrats!
Hi Vinicius!
Thanks for your support! 😉
Another great video... Thanks Teo! Question.. which kind of line (polipropilene, nylon, spectra..) you use for lazy Jacks? And for the thin white lines you clip with the carabiner at the end of the boom for reefing?
Hi Enrico!
The lazyjacks are made of a few different lines I already had. But I believe the white line which comes down to the cleat is 4mm polipropilene, the blue ones on each side of the mast are 2.5mm double braided, and the two "Vs" are single braided 3mm Polipropilene or Poliamide (same as the reef ties) i'm not sure tbh.
The "dog bones" that go from clews to the carabiner are made from 3mm pre-stretched Spectra/Dyneema.(info on part_1)
At the tack end the loops are made of 3mm spliced spectra
I wonder how high the wind would have to be for a third reef.
Probably too much to do anything but run!! I suspect where I sail with that much wind the chop would make it impossible to go anywhere but with the wind!
Deixa eles falarem....tá ótimo!!
Obrigado! 😉
Hi Teo, thanks for your videos! Could you please make available some information about the pulleys, ropes and other main gear you use for the rig? I see that some of your pulleys are Harken, but it would really help to know the sizes, also of the main sheet etc. you think work best with this setup. Many thanks in advance and happy sailing!
Hi Ben!
You are right my pulleys are mainly Harken 30mm and a 40mm for the halyard (I already had these from previous dinghies).
The Ratchet block is also Harken 57mm (again, had it already).
At the top of the mast I have an Allen Eazy Tie 20mm block, and on the outhaul a Barton size0 cheek block. The outhaul is just 5mm double braided poly.
The Halyard is 5mm spectra with outer poly sleeve. Sail corners tied to the yard with 3mm Spectra and around the yard with single braided 3mm poly. Mainsheet is Kingfisher’s Evolution 8mm.
Traveller is 6mm double braided poly, Tiller lock is now 3mm single braided Spectra.
Downhaul is 4 mm Double braided poly on the 4:1(Barton's 30mm double blocks) and 60 cm of 4mm Spectra for the x2 (Harken 30mm) top pulley to make a 8:1 downhaul.
Reefing loops and dog bones are 3mm Spectra.
Bleater is 5mm Spectra.
Reef ties single braided 3mm poly.
Lazyjacks are made of 3mm and 4mm Poly line.
I think this should cover most of it..
If you want the official BoM for the GIS scroll down on this page.
www.storerboatplans.com/tuning/lug-rig-setup/goat-island-skiff-rig-and-rigging-details-for-efficient-lug-sails/
Have fun 😉
@@TheBoatRambler Thanks so much, Teo, super helpful!
👌👌👌👌
Muito simples e simplesmente muito pratico...
Obrigada pela partilha :)
Obrigado Edgar! 😉
Surely not twice the weight. The heaviest addition would have been the side seats, which I love and would build into mine from ths start. I see them as a safety feature adding bouyancy, ease of righting after a capsize as well comfort. I love lazy jacks and fit them ti every boat, even my small beach cat. They are so simple cheap and improve riggng and allow the sail to be dropped when swimming or fishing. I cant see them hurting eacing performance at all.
Hi Frank!
My GIS was built using Birch plywood which is 30% heavier than Okoume. Add to that 3 hatches, the extended and watertight mid seat, the side benches, and the hull gets to 110Kg. That's double the weight of the lightest built GIS.
You can see me weighting and explaining what weights what on this video: ruclips.net/video/WGSrhVVWu6w/видео.html
Cheers
Teo
WHAT IS A BLEATER?
IT'S A PERSON WHO POSES QUESTIONS IN ALL CAPS
Hi Denis!
If you have a look at Rigging_Part_1 you can see it in more detail. But simply put is a line that holds the boom close to the mast and also prevents the boom from moving forward if the downhaul is placed a bit aft of the mast. This allows me to control Luff/Leech tension with just the downhaul.
Hi Dennis, you can' also see it being rigged here from 2:28 ruclips.net/video/i6O_zwOzXac/видео.html
Hi Teo, I still don't understand why it's necessary to fully lower the sail to reef it. Have you seen the rigging video for the SCAMP? It's here: ruclips.net/video/BLTYt5Tt6Go/видео.html It includes some clever reefing ideas for the balanced lug sail and interestingly he does not bother to fully lower the sail for the reefing demonstration. Maybe this wouldn't work in actual reefing weather? I do have to say though that each time you tell us reefing is easy, by the time you have gone through all the steps, I am having second thoughts about a balanced lug sail. That doesn't seem easy to me. If I need to reef I want it over and done with in 15 seconds at the absolute outside. That's a situation where you are uncomfortable with the conditions and what to take control again. I want the amount of time and thought required in that half and half stage with no control and no propulsion or steering to be short.
Hi Brendan!
You are talking of two completely different boats. The Scamp is heavier and ballasted and the GIS is really light, (if you point to wind and sit on the gunwale it will capsize!)
I had seen that video before and although the system seems quite good I don't think it would work "as is" on the GIS.
On that video it takes over 1 minute just for Tack and Clew, not even reefing ties. Even if you can reduce that time by half (with ties) I can't see the GIS pointing dead straight at the wind for 10 seconds let alone 30 seconds. It would just turn around and with all that sail up as soon as the winds hits the sail the boom would want to go over the gunwales and I'm afraid a capsize would surely occur!
I want the least sail area exposed to the wind as possible while reefing.
Also by tensioning the clew line that much it just takes away the most important feature of a Loose footed sail...the loose foot!!
I'm sure it could be adapted to some degree but I can't really comment on that because I haven't tried it.
Maybe I can make a video reefing just Tack and Clew on the GIS and we can clock it....But the sail will always have to come down on my system.
Thanks Teo, good answer. And I suppose the answer I expected. It wouldn't work in that weather. It would be very interesting to see how a practical reef on the water goes without tying in the reefing lines. Not so much to clock it as to see how complex or simple it is and whether it gets you flustered. Have you considered some form of loop and button or soft shackle for the reefing lines? I get your point about the tensioned loose foot. I do like their idea of having the gear for two reefs on two side of the sail, but it obviously has limitations too. Oh yeah, only a few more mods to go and you will have a "Long Scamp" ;)
I thought about the loop and button many times and is something I will probably implement at some point...😉
If ever there was a promoter of everything to do with sailing Teo is that person. He makes as if he can do it so can you. Comfortable or what!
Thanks for your support Greg! 👍
Thank you for stressing the point: Never tie the reef points around the boom.