Well done Jordan. Watched this Oct. 2024. Just had our 1st house built at age 75 and we didn't know squat about flooring. Actually we doesn't know anything about building. Long story short we had Shaw LVP put on a slab and now Shaw has pulled this style because of unknown reasons and flaws. It's all buckled up and seam cracking. It's Luxury Junk. We came from a home with basement and solid red oak flooring installed in 1956. Refinished 10 years ago and looked great. Your video has helped me decide to get some real flooring and have it done right. Expensive but right. THANK YOU.
Your ability to explain things in a way even a novice can understand is exceptional. Of all the home building RUclipsrs I subscribe to, you are the most informative. It's almost like taking a class... we should just call you Professor Smith. Keep up the great work.
A+ on your presentation and knowledge of wood flooring. I like the fact you talk about inferior products and premium products without putting either product down. I have been wondering all your points and am glad you put out a first class training session.
Having only been exposed to the cheap box store stuff, I definitely haven't been too keen on the idea of engineered flooring. You've definitely opened my eyes on this. I'll definitely be considering them in the future.
This is the best alternative to hardwood flooring for humid environments! We r building a house and I think we'll go with a tile in kitchen,bathrooms,and laundry room and engineered wood everywhere else. Thank you for such a detailed explanation!))
Every time I hear that intro music I pause my TV and go off looking for leg warmers that I used to have in the 80s. Then I realize I never had legwarmers, forget what I was doing, and realize that my A.D.D. is flaring up.
The engineered floor I was shown was made of a sawdust base. I could not sand it and it was thin, like 1/4 thin. It looked like it was a laminate-type flooring. The company said no it was called an engineered flooring. If I was shown something that you just shared I totally would go for that type. Thanks for the info! It has been very helpful.
That's called Luxury Vinyl Plank flooring... not at all the same thing. "Engineered Product" is a marketing gimmick to confuse buyers into thinking they're getting a "hardwood" floor for really cheap, when in reality, they're getting a cheap floor for really cheap. If you think about it, pretty much everything is "engineered". But the term "engineered hardwood" is a unique product that is higher quality and will cost more.
I have been driving myself crazy trying to find something that mimics a white oak solid hardwood flooring... it’s hard to find without it looking cheap. This flooring looks beautiful and you explained it so nicely! Thank you!
Very nice explanation of the flooring differences. I have been in the home improvement business for a while and I am some times confused by all the different types and styles of wood products out there ! Thank you ! Bob Lane, Sterling Heights, MI
We had engineered hard wood floor put in and I really liked it. Now finding someone to resurface it is very hard. They all seem to say you can't. This video was very helpful/ Good job and thanks. I won't let someone talk down about my hard wood floor.
I put in bamboo five years ago and love it, it looks as good as when we installed it, super durable. We foster large dogs so I was not expecting it to still look like when it was installed five years later.
Thank you for the video! I'm starting to clean hardwood floors and this was very informative... What really got me into hardwood types is I contracted out a hardwood sand and refinish job and I want to learn more about the floors! You definitely helped out. Appreciate you!
We have 3/4" oak in high traffic areas but used engineered cork in one bedroom and engineered bamboo in another (high quality, not builder grade). Our bamboo also looks just like new but a lot of that has to do with the quality of the finish. The cork has held up very well also and feels nice under foot. For bedrooms these are typically floating installations with click and lock boards, so no nailing required and no creaks in the floor down the road due to nails working loose. The floor wearing out after 7 years has to do with the quality of finish and the type of traffic. You can get poor quality finishes on solid wood flooring as well. My oak needs refinishing, but it's in a high traffic area where furniture also gets moved around, so that's normal. Dogs will also wear out the floor faster. 3 coat poly will not last long, but 5 or 7 coat poly will last many years, so do your research before purchasing. If working with a builder, consider upgrading to higher quality finishes for longer wear.
Jordan, your spec house was instrumental in my decision to go with a helical pile foundation with open crawlspace. Can you kindly share how you insulated the open crawl space? Thanks
Excellent explanation! Thanks for the video. I decided on Bella Cera engineered hardwood. Got the Villa Belize in Butera which is French Oak, 7.5" wide planks. I'm installing it now. I really dig the smoked look and they have 8 coats of Bona matte finish that really makes the grain pop. Only a 2mm wear layer, but I have no plans on refinishing. If the times comes for a change, I'll just replace it.
I always loved installing solid wood flooring. I found a mill in nearby state that sold old reclaimed wood flooring, as well as clear or "rustic" aka knots. I learned to install floors, and did my own (but not the finishing). With your video, you cleared up the notion that "engineered" is not only sandable, but you can get 2x the refinish out of them as much as solid flooring. (ofcourse the pre-finished, cheaper flooring is the one I saw the most, so I never knew there was a solid wood laminate over engineered. Thank you. Something now to consider now. What is the end resource of engineered when its done? Solid wood floors can be milled or recycled- what about engineered?
To my knowledge engineered is basically made out of wood too but instead of a solid piece it is being layered with cheap woods/plywood (spelling) under and so on.
Thanks for this really detailed description! I am doing an attic remodel and the details matter! In the case we're looking at the downstairs is already a manufactured parquet hardwood tile, possibly trying to match it, but this give us choices to work with - cheers!
Great info coming from an installer. Pretty much the same way I explain the differences in the structural parts. Although calling the veneer the "wearlayer" makes me cringe. Adding more info about finish qualities which reflect the warranty of the finish, which affects costs would help some people. Also reminding people that if their floor is textured, wire brushed, hand scraped, the veneer can only be sanded flat and usually can't be made as pretty as it came out of the factory. Yeah there are special people that can scrape the floor and make it pretty. But the to Rip it out and put new in with a factory finish would be cheaper. So the veneer thickness is kinda redundant and not important for some floors, because they will just be ripped out and something new will be put in. It's our "disposable society". You explained plywood with a veneer very well. The Bona product you discussed uses "staves" instead of plywood, which was pioneered by Lauzon. Also used by Mannington and many or manufacturers. Another peice of info to discuss. Again, very well explained overall!😀
I don’t care what reviews come along with it - if you’re paying $18/sqft for a 5mm engineered hardwood before install or without an install system - you’re paying WAY too much.
What about concerns over the out-gassing of the adhesives used in the engineered hardwood? Also, what happens if the plywood underside ever gets wet? I have seen what happens to plywood when it gets wet-not good!
Years ago on This Old House, they installed an engineered wood floor that was 100 percent hardwood (that is, no softwood under the wear layer). Does that product still exist?
Moisture is always a problem everywhere. A lot of thought needs to go into any home build to keep the floors, walls and roof dry. Too many builders use poor construction techniques. Proper landscaping drainage is often over looked.
Very interesting video. I would like to do the engineered flooring in my basement. Would you tell me what is required between this and the concrete slab?
I'm a glue expert. 37 years in the adhesives industry. I can tell you one thing. You are right not to trust adhesives on a solid wood floor. Not because the new glue will not perform. It's because I've never seen an installer that uses the adhesive properly. If you don't use the adhesive properly, the floor will fail. 90% of all flooring installations fail due to installers NOT using the adhesive properly.
It is not a term, it is an actual product. The brand is called BONA - and has an extensive range of products, the one that he is refering to is Bona Natural. - check out their website. Greetings from Australia! www.bona.com/Bona-Professional/Products/Coatings/Lacquers/Bona-Traffic-Natural/
There has to be some worry of delamination between the solid wood and the plywood on the engineered flooring. Why was this not brought up, is just never an issue?
Questions . What do you think of retrofit addition of insulation on a slab on grade foundation ? Say 1 inch of foam plus plywood plus engineered floor ? I was even thinking of a dimple Mat later too let the slab breath. Thoughts ?
A large national discount flooring chain sells engineered hardwood with a paper thin wear layer. I doubt you could even refinish it once. I went with solid wood (from the same chain), and it was somewhat of a mistake. The milling was flawed (boards vary in width by 1/16" or more, excessive snipe on the tongue side of a large number of boards), and it took 10x longer than it should have to piece together a floor without gaps. Since it's prefinished I couldn't just fix problem boards with my woodworking tools. Next time I'd go with quality engineered hardwood. The labor savings alone will be worth it even if it costs more.
Here is zone 6, most new higher end homes use 3/4" solid hardwood for 1st and 2nd story floors and luxury vinyl for basements over concrete. The cost difference between solid and engineered hardwood isn't worth the limited times engineered could sanded for refinishing. It also isn't worth the extra cost to install engineered wood over concrete if a floating subfloor is required. If you want flush wood floor register vents, they all seem to be 3/4" thick, so good luck if installing 5/8" thick engineered hardwood or install 1/8" thick underlayment first, which drives up the cost.
In hot abd humid environments do engineered wood have a higher tendency to warp as plywood and hardwood expand and respond differently to the same amount of moisture and heat?
I had a home built in 1955 with oak parquet squares on concrete slab. When I bought the house in 1989 I had the floor sanded and 3 coats of polyurethane mopped on. Still looked beautiful when I sold in 2021, and the house is in the Deep South. It’s humid and hot outside but the ac keeps humidity from being a factor.
Excellent: Question- is their a thin insulated - moisture barrier pad that helps later with creaking of floors later to place between concrete and engineered wood floors?
Hah! I was talking to a coworker on this earlier today when he was saying he'd never get engineered hardwood floors again, because the cruddy builder grade stuff he had was worn out after 7 years. Only point I missed was flying directly to concrete, so I guess I did okay, lol!
@JordanSmith I'm planning to go for a DIY on our master bedroom suing engineered hardwood and my subfloor is the actual concrete slab. So I believe i could use glue to get it done. But do i need to have a moisture barrier put in? But then how the gluing works for the hardwood on top of the moisture barrier? Kindly provide your inputs on this.
You need a moisture barrier only if your slab rh is too high for the adhesive. I believe mapei 980, which is a standard glue that I use on 95% of my jobs, can handle around 80% rh and 5lb of moisture vapor transmission. If you have signs of moisture issues (efflorescence, wet spots, mildew, previous flooring failures), or if you are just worried about it and want cheap insurance, use a Wagner rapid rh test and perform a basic calcium chloride test to find out you moisture levels. Most of the time it will be below those thresholds. Keep the room nice and dry, use floor fans to move air, keep the air humidity down to mitigate any issues with condensation throwing off your test readings. If you do have moisture problems you can use a moisture barrier glue such as mapei 995 which handles higher thresholds of vapor transmission and slab humidity. If it is beyond rhe thresholds of even a moisture glue, there are various roll on epoxy products or trowel on urethane type products to stop the moisture migration. Whatever you use should be rated for a direct bond hardwood install, for example plastic sheeting cannot be used because there is no way ti fasten it. Youll need a rated adhesive or separate barrier product such as Bostik MVP, which is designed to have wood be glued to it directly.
I don’t how the effective wear layer is same for both. My understanding is that hardwood can be sanded many times. Is the sanding limited to reaching the lip?
I have concrete floor since our house is built on a slab. I want to put a dance floor in one of the rooms. It cannot be vinyl because our feet will hurt if we are dancing on concrete. This room I do not keep the temp of the rest of the house to save money. Thermostat is set at 50. In winter, on sunny days, the room will warm up to 60 on its own. We are ballroom and Latin dancers, so we cannot have even a microbevel. It needs to be installed flush. My husband likes the lighter oak look and thinner width planks that would be real hardwood. We were told we cannot put real hardwood in unless we put a subfloor in. What are our options? Thanks.
Can engineered be nailed and also is it waterproof I was thinking to use it in a kitchen if yes can I put cabinets on top of this style of flooring or it has to be around cabinets thanks
Do you recommend Hurst Hardwoods? I think I saw in another video that you’ve gotten flooring from them before. I’m considering using them for my new build.
Do solid. It can be professionally covered with polyurethane or lacquer. I'm from New Orleans. Our floors were 50 years old. First, we had to get them professionally sanded, then stained. After they were coated with polyurethane, they stayed beautiful and looked brand new through 2 active toddlers, a boxer puppy, and toys being played with on the floors, etc....To clean, the professional told me to use a damp string mop, taking as much of the dampness out that I could. It cleaned wonderfully.
Hi Jordan I am in the uk with a pex/water underfloor heating system under liquid screed (75mm). What’s your thoughts on laying the long and wide white oak planks? Glueing etc
Make sure that the glue manufacturer allows for underfloor heating, but I would be comfortable putting an engineered floor down on a radiant heating system.
I have a very large room about 500 SQ FT I like to put something that has weight because I don't have sub flooring I have a concrete I also have underlayment because initially was going to put veneer plank flooring but it was too hollow sounding and crackle when I stepped on it. So is there a product for my situation??
We have engineered hardwood flooring from Armstrong in our home and it is absolute garbage. It scratches, it delaminates and splinters. It's so bad that I don't see how or why we would ever consider engineered wood flooring in the future. I guess Armstrong has ruined the product for us.
Can you expand on cost difference. Is a 6mm wear layer engineer floor more than a true hardwood? If so, and you are installing on wood subfloor up north, and you don’t want/need large format/wide planks then am I wrong to say true hardwood is still the best option? That’s how I see it anyway. But I agree if going on to slab or need those wide planks than engineer w thick wear layer is best
So for installing directly on concrete one needs to ask for what kind of plywood substrate for engineered floor? A water resistant glue or pressure treated or what do they call it?
Just subscribed, you've earned it. Enlightening, I always thought solid was the gold standard. Most engineer offer click and lock for floating method, which can make instalation easier. What's your thought on this method?
@@JordanSmithBuilds Yeah, I know you speak Texan, ha ha. I hope I come off as helpful, since you are on an international stage now. And I say hot water heater is right!
I am a bit confused. On some youtube tutorials they are saying that engineer last up to 30 but solid last up from 30 to 100 years due to the fact that it is solid and also i can be sand more than engineer. Is that truth? You said that their are both as in sanding thickness. This is where I am so lost.
You can sand the same if its a good quality engineered with a thick wear layer. 6mm preferably. On solid hardwood there's about 6mm before you get to the tongue (the groove where you connect two pieces of wood). So he's saying this is basically the same. You have to get a 5 or 6mm wear layer though in order to do this. And...The core (the plywood core of the engineered hardwood) has to be a good quality wood still. Like Eucalyptus wood.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Well done Jordan. Watched this Oct. 2024. Just had our 1st house built at age 75 and we didn't know squat about flooring. Actually we doesn't know anything about building. Long story short we had Shaw LVP put on a slab and now Shaw has pulled this style because of unknown reasons and flaws. It's all buckled up and seam cracking. It's Luxury Junk. We came from a home with basement and solid red oak flooring installed in 1956. Refinished 10 years ago and looked great. Your video has helped me decide to get some real flooring and have it done right. Expensive but right. THANK YOU.
I've watched tons of solid vs. engineered wood flooring videos. Yours is the most comprehensive by far!
Your ability to explain things in a way even a novice can understand is exceptional. Of all the home building RUclipsrs I subscribe to, you are the most informative. It's almost like taking a class... we should just call you Professor Smith. Keep up the great work.
Totally agreed!
Agreed
A+ on your presentation and knowledge of wood flooring. I like the fact you talk about inferior products and premium products without putting either product down. I have been wondering all your points and am glad you put out a first class training session.
Floors are always on the ground......
Having only been exposed to the cheap box store stuff, I definitely haven't been too keen on the idea of engineered flooring. You've definitely opened my eyes on this. I'll definitely be considering them in the future.
I get samples from the store and scratch the mess out of them with my keys 😁
BRUCE hardwood floors are amazing
This is the best alternative to hardwood flooring for humid environments! We r building a house and I think we'll go with a tile in kitchen,bathrooms,and laundry room and engineered wood everywhere else. Thank you for such a detailed explanation!))
all the way Engineered, now I understand the differences between both, pros and cons, precise and concise explanation!
Very nice presentation and especially the explanation on the wear layers it was very informative, simply great. Thanks!
Every time I hear that intro music I pause my TV and go off looking for leg warmers that I used to have in the 80s. Then I realize I never had legwarmers, forget what I was doing, and realize that my A.D.D. is flaring up.
That was the best informational video on wood floor options! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video, extremely helpful for me. Just started working at a flooring store with no prior knowledge nor experience so these vids help out a ton
The engineered floor I was shown was made of a sawdust base. I could not sand it and it was thin, like 1/4 thin. It looked like it was a laminate-type flooring. The company said no it was called an engineered flooring. If I was shown something that you just shared I totally would go for that type. Thanks for the info! It has been very helpful.
That's called Luxury Vinyl Plank flooring... not at all the same thing. "Engineered Product" is a marketing gimmick to confuse buyers into thinking they're getting a "hardwood" floor for really cheap, when in reality, they're getting a cheap floor for really cheap. If you think about it, pretty much everything is "engineered".
But the term "engineered hardwood" is a unique product that is higher quality and will cost more.
I have been driving myself crazy trying to find something that mimics a white oak solid hardwood flooring... it’s hard to find without it looking cheap. This flooring looks beautiful and you explained it so nicely! Thank you!
Very nice explanation of the flooring differences. I have been in the home improvement business for a while and I am some times confused by all the different types and styles of wood products out there ! Thank you !
Bob Lane, Sterling Heights, MI
We had engineered hard wood floor put in and I really liked it. Now finding someone to resurface it is very hard. They all seem to say you can't. This video was very helpful/ Good job and thanks. I won't let someone talk down about my hard wood floor.
I put in bamboo five years ago and love it, it looks as good as when we installed it, super durable. We foster large dogs so I was not expecting it to still look like when it was installed five years later.
Do you know who manufactured the bamboo?
Can I put bamboo on top of concrete flooring?
@@Phil_Meloneyes
hi, great info.
but what about the materials used to glue the flooring ? is it toxic to breath?
Thank you for the video! I'm starting to clean hardwood floors and this was very informative... What really got me into hardwood types is I contracted out a hardwood sand and refinish job and I want to learn more about the floors! You definitely helped out. Appreciate you!
Thanks for that you clarified and and cleared up a lot about the differences between the two.
The only video that really helps understand hardwood floors thanks I learned all I need
We have 3/4" oak in high traffic areas but used engineered cork in one bedroom and engineered bamboo in another (high quality, not builder grade). Our bamboo also looks just like new but a lot of that has to do with the quality of the finish. The cork has held up very well also and feels nice under foot. For bedrooms these are typically floating installations with click and lock boards, so no nailing required and no creaks in the floor down the road due to nails working loose.
The floor wearing out after 7 years has to do with the quality of finish and the type of traffic. You can get poor quality finishes on solid wood flooring as well. My oak needs refinishing, but it's in a high traffic area where furniture also gets moved around, so that's normal. Dogs will also wear out the floor faster. 3 coat poly will not last long, but 5 or 7 coat poly will last many years, so do your research before purchasing. If working with a builder, consider upgrading to higher quality finishes for longer wear.
What is superior about plywood (either underlaid, or as part of the engineered) that allows it to tolerate moisture from a slab?
THIS completely clears this up for me, thank you very much! One video, bingo, the right one.
Jordan, your spec house was instrumental in my decision to go with a helical pile foundation with open crawlspace. Can you kindly share how you insulated the open crawl space? Thanks
Excellent explanation! Thanks for the video. I decided on Bella Cera engineered hardwood. Got the Villa Belize in Butera which is French Oak, 7.5" wide planks. I'm installing it now. I really dig the smoked look and they have 8 coats of Bona matte finish that really makes the grain pop. Only a 2mm wear layer, but I have no plans on refinishing. If the times comes for a change, I'll just replace it.
I always loved installing solid wood flooring. I found a mill in nearby state that sold old reclaimed wood flooring, as well as clear or "rustic" aka knots. I learned to install floors, and did my own (but not the finishing). With your video, you cleared up the notion that "engineered" is not only sandable, but you can get 2x the refinish out of them as much as solid flooring. (ofcourse the pre-finished, cheaper flooring is the one I saw the most, so I never knew there was a solid wood laminate over engineered. Thank you. Something now to consider now. What is the end resource of engineered when its done? Solid wood floors can be milled or recycled- what about engineered?
To my knowledge engineered is basically made out of wood too but instead of a solid piece it is being layered with cheap woods/plywood (spelling) under and so on.
*Fuming Oak:* The "smoke" is ammonia, which chemically reacts with the tannins in oak and darkens the wood.
I was waiting to see if somebody else knew what "fumed" really was
Thanks for this really detailed description! I am doing an attic remodel and the details matter! In the case we're looking at the downstairs is already a manufactured parquet hardwood tile, possibly trying to match it, but this give us choices to work with - cheers!
great video+explanation+presentation mate! well done! thanks for sharing! new sub 🙏🏻
Great info coming from an installer. Pretty much the same way I explain the differences in the structural parts. Although calling the veneer the "wearlayer" makes me cringe.
Adding more info about finish qualities which reflect the warranty of the finish, which affects costs would help some people.
Also reminding people that if their floor is textured, wire brushed, hand scraped, the veneer can only be sanded flat and usually can't be made as pretty as it came out of the factory. Yeah there are special people that can scrape the floor and make it pretty. But the to Rip it out and put new in with a factory finish would be cheaper. So the veneer thickness is kinda redundant and not important for some floors, because they will just be ripped out and something new will be put in. It's our "disposable society".
You explained plywood with a veneer very well. The Bona product you discussed uses "staves" instead of plywood, which was pioneered by Lauzon. Also used by Mannington and many or manufacturers. Another peice of info to discuss.
Again, very well explained overall!😀
I don’t care what reviews come along with it - if you’re paying $18/sqft for a 5mm engineered hardwood before install or without an install system - you’re paying WAY too much.
Do you know how expensive walnut is?
Fn ridiculous we sell it for 3.49 a sqft
What about concerns over the out-gassing of the adhesives used in the engineered hardwood? Also, what happens if the plywood underside ever gets wet? I have seen what happens to plywood when it gets wet-not good!
yes
Can you get engineered sand-in-place floors? I hate seeing grooves ('eased edges') in floors - screams engineered flooring and collects dust/dirt.
Yes,! You’re right- dirt collectors! And yes, sand and finish in place engineered is a great way to go!!
Great video! I know nothing about floors but you made it easy to follow along👍
Thank you so much! Never knew you could sand engineer flooring.
Years ago on This Old House, they installed an engineered wood floor that was 100 percent hardwood (that is, no softwood under the wear layer). Does that product still exist?
Moisture is always a problem everywhere.
A lot of thought needs to go into any home build to keep the floors, walls and roof dry.
Too many builders use poor construction techniques.
Proper landscaping drainage is often over looked.
thanks, very good explanation of advantages of engineered timber. one'd think that solid is always better, but it is not the case here.
Very interesting video. I would like to do the engineered flooring in my basement. Would you tell me what is required between this and the concrete slab?
I'm a glue expert. 37 years in the adhesives industry. I can tell you one thing. You are right not to trust adhesives on a solid wood floor. Not because the new glue will not perform. It's because I've never seen an installer that uses the adhesive properly. If you don't use the adhesive properly, the floor will fail. 90% of all flooring installations fail due to installers NOT using the adhesive properly.
Thanks for your great video, you helped me decided on engineer hardwood floor on my concrete slab foundation. Cheers and keep up the great work!
what was that term you used for the wood with the natural nonshine look? ?? Bon al Natural???
It is not a term, it is an actual product. The brand is called BONA - and has an extensive range of products, the one that he is refering to is Bona Natural. - check out their website. Greetings from Australia! www.bona.com/Bona-Professional/Products/Coatings/Lacquers/Bona-Traffic-Natural/
@@jonathanmonroi thanks for sharing the name and link. I came to the comments on hopes of finding this! 💕
There has to be some worry of delamination between the solid wood and the plywood on the engineered flooring. Why was this not brought up, is just never an issue?
Questions . What do you think of retrofit addition of insulation on a slab on grade foundation ? Say 1 inch of foam plus plywood plus engineered floor ?
I was even thinking of a dimple Mat later too let the slab breath. Thoughts ?
A large national discount flooring chain sells engineered hardwood with a paper thin wear layer. I doubt you could even refinish it once. I went with solid wood (from the same chain), and it was somewhat of a mistake. The milling was flawed (boards vary in width by 1/16" or more, excessive snipe on the tongue side of a large number of boards), and it took 10x longer than it should have to piece together a floor without gaps. Since it's prefinished I couldn't just fix problem boards with my woodworking tools.
Next time I'd go with quality engineered hardwood. The labor savings alone will be worth it even if it costs more.
Nice video, I didn't realize about the same 'effective' wear layer.
I'm a little confused about the Fuming process. How does this allow us to "not worry about the finish chipping"? Thanks.
Excellent video
Here is zone 6, most new higher end homes use 3/4" solid hardwood for 1st and 2nd story floors and luxury vinyl for basements over concrete. The cost difference between solid and engineered hardwood isn't worth the limited times engineered could sanded for refinishing. It also isn't worth the extra cost to install engineered wood over concrete if a floating subfloor is required. If you want flush wood floor register vents, they all seem to be 3/4" thick, so good luck if installing 5/8" thick engineered hardwood or install 1/8" thick underlayment first, which drives up the cost.
Very, very informative! I will get engineered hardwood floor!
In hot abd humid environments do engineered wood have a higher tendency to warp as plywood and hardwood expand and respond differently to the same amount of moisture and heat?
I had a home built in 1955 with oak parquet squares on concrete slab. When I bought the house in 1989 I had the floor sanded and 3 coats of polyurethane mopped on. Still looked beautiful when I sold in 2021, and the house is in the Deep South. It’s humid and hot outside but the ac keeps humidity from being a factor.
Thanks a million for this video. You explained it so well.
Excellent: Question- is their a thin insulated - moisture barrier pad that helps later with creaking of floors later to place between concrete and engineered wood floors?
No none, most flooring glues good ones anyway have a primer /sealer, then flooring.
Hah! I was talking to a coworker on this earlier today when he was saying he'd never get engineered hardwood floors again, because the cruddy builder grade stuff he had was worn out after 7 years.
Only point I missed was flying directly to concrete, so I guess I did okay, lol!
@JordanSmith I'm planning to go for a DIY on our master bedroom suing engineered hardwood and my subfloor is the actual concrete slab. So I believe i could use glue to get it done. But do i need to have a moisture barrier put in? But then how the gluing works for the hardwood on top of the moisture barrier? Kindly provide your inputs on this.
I definitely would if you can afford it
You need a moisture barrier only if your slab rh is too high for the adhesive. I believe mapei 980, which is a standard glue that I use on 95% of my jobs, can handle around 80% rh and 5lb of moisture vapor transmission. If you have signs of moisture issues (efflorescence, wet spots, mildew, previous flooring failures), or if you are just worried about it and want cheap insurance, use a Wagner rapid rh test and perform a basic calcium chloride test to find out you moisture levels. Most of the time it will be below those thresholds. Keep the room nice and dry, use floor fans to move air, keep the air humidity down to mitigate any issues with condensation throwing off your test readings. If you do have moisture problems you can use a moisture barrier glue such as mapei 995 which handles higher thresholds of vapor transmission and slab humidity. If it is beyond rhe thresholds of even a moisture glue, there are various roll on epoxy products or trowel on urethane type products to stop the moisture migration. Whatever you use should be rated for a direct bond hardwood install, for example plastic sheeting cannot be used because there is no way ti fasten it. Youll need a rated adhesive or separate barrier product such as Bostik MVP, which is designed to have wood be glued to it directly.
Excellent video. Super easy to understand.
Great video. Thanks for the breakdown
I don’t how the effective wear layer is same for both. My understanding is that hardwood can be sanded many times. Is the sanding limited to reaching the lip?
Sanding to the point of reaching the tongue / groove is the point where the problem starts.
@3:53 why u say engineered wood? isn't it a hard wood?
It has am inside of several interlocking woods to keep it from warping
What about using a peel n stick underlayment and gluing the solid wood flooring to that? Has anyone tried that?
Can u recommend engineered floors above water piped floor heating installation system?
Can you install engineered hardwood floor in my bedroom? I live in Pennsylvania. In the winter my heater would be on a lot and the air is very dry.
Thanks I always wondered about the sanding issue.
I have concrete floor since our house is built on a slab. I want to put a dance floor in one of the rooms. It cannot be vinyl because our feet will hurt if we are dancing on concrete. This room I do not keep the temp of the rest of the house to save money. Thermostat is set at 50. In winter, on sunny days, the room will warm up to 60 on its own. We are ballroom and Latin dancers, so we cannot have even a microbevel. It needs to be installed flush. My husband likes the lighter oak look and thinner width planks that would be real hardwood. We were told we cannot put real hardwood in unless we put a subfloor in. What are our options? Thanks.
Can engineered be nailed and also is it waterproof I was thinking to use it in a kitchen if yes can I put cabinets on top of this style of flooring or it has to be around cabinets thanks
How about protection against termite?
Do you recommend Hurst Hardwoods? I think I saw in another video that you’ve gotten flooring from them before. I’m considering using them for my new build.
Do solid. It can be professionally covered with polyurethane or lacquer. I'm from New Orleans. Our floors were 50 years old. First, we had to get them professionally sanded, then stained. After they were coated with polyurethane, they stayed beautiful and looked brand new through 2 active toddlers, a boxer puppy, and toys being played with on the floors, etc....To clean, the professional told me to use a damp string mop, taking as much of the dampness out that I could. It cleaned wonderfully.
This has worked for you on a slab?
Who cares about flooring, when we have such a good looking man to watch!
Hes married Kathy, keep your mind out of the gutter. Keep them legs closed, adultery is NO good. am I right?
Ewww lust sinner
Where can I get the wood planks that are shown on the wall? Those are beautiful.
Just dropped some serious dough on Natural Select White Natural White Oak 5 inch wide... I wish i had seen this video prior to making the purchase :(
This is very informative. Thank you!
Thank you very much for this video very good information
Hi Jordan I am in the uk with a pex/water underfloor heating system under liquid screed (75mm). What’s your thoughts on laying the long and wide white oak planks? Glueing etc
Make sure that the glue manufacturer allows for underfloor heating, but I would be comfortable putting an engineered floor down on a radiant heating system.
Awesome information!! Thank you!!
Excellent video. I was wondering about engineered flooring.
I wish I could get hardwood floors, but was told you can’t put them down over cement slab.
I have a very large room about 500 SQ FT I like to put something that has weight because I don't have sub flooring I have a concrete I also have underlayment because initially was going to put veneer plank flooring but it was too hollow sounding and crackle when I stepped on it. So is there a product for my situation??
What flooring store are you doing this video from?
Can you have cork as a subfloor ?
Thak you so much for your wisdom on wood flooring. I truly appreciate this video. 😊subbed
We have engineered hardwood flooring from Armstrong in our home and it is absolute garbage. It scratches, it delaminates and splinters. It's so bad that I don't see how or why we would ever consider engineered wood flooring in the future. I guess Armstrong has ruined the product for us.
What would you do if you had it over to do? I ask because I'm looking into hardwood floors and didn't even know how many different types they had!
How are spelling the name of the wood floors in you store? boen wood floors?
You can roll on a vapor barrier before you glue it down if your concerned about the moisture.
Can you expand on cost difference. Is a 6mm wear layer engineer floor more than a true hardwood? If so, and you are installing on wood subfloor up north, and you don’t want/need large format/wide planks then am I wrong to say true hardwood is still the best option? That’s how I see it anyway. But I agree if going on to slab or need those wide planks than engineer w thick wear layer is best
So for installing directly on concrete one needs to ask for what kind of plywood substrate for engineered floor? A water resistant glue or pressure treated or what do they call it?
Just subscribed, you've earned it. Enlightening, I always thought solid was the gold standard. Most engineer offer click and lock for floating method, which can make instalation easier. What's your thought on this method?
Very informative. Thank you. Btw, condensate is a noun, condense is a verb.
Thanks, Scorpio. You've been following me long enough to know that, although English is my first language, I'm still not fluent. 😄
@@JordanSmithBuilds Yeah, I know you speak Texan, ha ha. I hope I come off as helpful, since you are on an international stage now. And I say hot water heater is right!
I am a bit confused. On some youtube tutorials they are saying that engineer last up to 30 but solid last up from 30 to 100 years due to the fact that it is solid and also i can be sand more than engineer. Is that truth? You said that their are both as in sanding thickness. This is where I am so lost.
You can sand the same if its a good quality engineered with a thick wear layer. 6mm preferably.
On solid hardwood there's about 6mm before you get to the tongue (the groove where you connect two pieces of wood). So he's saying this is basically the same. You have to get a 5 or 6mm wear layer though in order to do this. And...The core (the plywood core of the engineered hardwood) has to be a good quality wood still. Like Eucalyptus wood.
Very helpful! Thank you so much.
Very informative video 👍👍
Thanks a lot!
Building a timber frame home I was wondering why not use engineer hardwood floor in the ceilings can it be done?
Sure, it’s all tongue and groove
Consider the quality implications of "cheap" versus "inexpensive", especially given the stability of the laminates/plywood?
i went to home depot to check these out. there was very little price difference. it was a no brainer to choose the hardwood boards.
Very helpful. Thanks.
Learned a lot, thanks !!
Wow, great video so far’
Thanks! I would like to say it gets better, but let's be honest; it probably doesn't. :)
Very informative!
Wow, crazy helpful. Subbed!
Answered all my questions…!