Omg thank you…i just bought one of these as my very first serger and didn’t think id be lucky enough to find a video on the same old model. 😊❤❤ so thankful and i love your channel!!
I can’t thank you enough! The thread broke on my already threaded serger that I got at an estate sale and I had been putting rethreading it off for so long. Got it working thanks to you!
I was just at the repair. On Sergers you have to loosen all of the dials. The presser foot on sergers doesn't open all of the disks unlike the regular sewing machine. I have the same machine. Also was told by the repair person that for the best results if thread breaks rethread for best results. And the # 3 slot always has to be threaded first. But very good tutorial.
Yes great info. Usually it's the number 3 slot first but not on every machine! Interesting about having to turn the dials down, I'm going to try that and see!
Thanks for that detail especially in regard to where the threads should go after they come out the end of the loopers & needles-nothing in the manual about that. The model I’ve inherited is an early 1980’s 5 thread. Can’t help thinking how these are designed from the (non sewing) industrial engineer designers point of view not the end user 😂 not much thought given to ergonomics, accessibility or user-friendliness in those days. No idea how my elderly grandmother managed as she had rheumatoid arthritis in her hands. Small mercy for colour coded dots!
Very informative video, I just got a used one & older model, it was kind of tricky figuring out the diagram, specially threading the second thread, now I know how to do it. Thank You !!
Great instructions. I have the same overlocker. Bought at a garage sale as well. I am having difficulty finding needles. Do you know were I can buy needles for this overlocker?
I have been thinking about getting a used serger; could you share your opinion on the best used serger and suggest some models I should keep an eye out for?
I am a JUKI brand loyalist. I have the Juki MO-735 which is a combo machine that does serging and coverstitch. The MO-114 is a great lower priced option that has everything you could want in a serger. If you desire some ease-of-use functions, the MO-1000 has air-threading and needle threaders. Those are my favorites, hope that helps in your search!
This is the same model I have. The manual doesn't say anything about oiling it (or lowering the tension when I thread it. I never do). I've seen on other models that people oil them from that top little hole. I've never seen it for this particular model. Do you know how to oil it?
There's a little "elbow" kind of an apparatus where you put a drop, and also a spot where you'll see a shaft going through a big nut-type thing. Put a drop there as well. :) Thanks for watching!
Bonjour très chouette vidéo mais personnes parlent qu'on peut élargir le point en changeant la distance du couteau avec les deux petites visses du devant.....
Just like a regular sewing machine you can use a range of needles. Universals are fine if you plan to sew on wovens, ballpoint or stretch needles if that is what the fabric requires (stretchy / synthetic materials do better with stretch or ballpoint needles. If you are getting skipped stitches this can be a solution). You can do sizes from 70 - 90 just like your normal machine Thicker needle for thicker fabric. It's not going to make a huge difference and most needles you're using on other machines will be fine.
@@habagaba877 These older Singer Ultralock Sergers (made for Singer at the time by Juki) lack some of the features of modern machines, but are better made than almost any new serger you can buy today, and definitely in a different class from the current ones branded Singer. Many sergers use normal domestic sewing machine needles, but not these. They won't fit as they are too fat. This is deliberate as they lack the additional thread groove these machines need to work properly Look up Singer 2054 needles for the proper ones - Schmetz make them coded as SY2054 in 10/12/14 sizes but generally only as "universal" point I think.
Hello! This machine does not have the ability to disengage the stitch finger, so you have to have a separate throat plate that is made for rolled hemming, which doesn't have the stitch finger. If you have that, you can put that on. Then remove the left needle. Change the blade position to 1.5mm. Change stitch length to 2 or F. Set the upper looper tension to a lower number (around 3.5 ), set the lower looper tension to a higher number (around 6-7). Do a few tests and make subtle changes to the tensions until you get the result you like. The goal is to have the threads locking together on the back side of the fabric instead of right at the edge. If you don't have that accessory, is not going to make a true rolled hem. However you can still change all those setting and achieve a narrow overlock and it will look very close to a rolled hem. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching.
Omg thank you…i just bought one of these as my very first serger and didn’t think id be lucky enough to find a video on the same old model. 😊❤❤ so thankful and i love your channel!!
I can’t thank you enough! The thread broke on my already threaded serger that I got at an estate sale and I had been putting rethreading it off for so long. Got it working thanks to you!
I was just at the repair. On Sergers you have to loosen all of the dials. The presser foot on sergers doesn't open all of the disks unlike the regular sewing machine. I have the same machine. Also was told by the repair person that for the best results if thread breaks rethread for best results. And the # 3 slot always has to be threaded first. But very good tutorial.
Yes great info. Usually it's the number 3 slot first but not on every machine! Interesting about having to turn the dials down, I'm going to try that and see!
Thanks for that detail especially in regard to where the threads should go after they come out the end of the loopers & needles-nothing in the manual about that. The model I’ve inherited is an early 1980’s 5 thread. Can’t help thinking how these are designed from the (non sewing) industrial engineer designers point of view not the end user 😂 not much thought given to ergonomics, accessibility or user-friendliness in those days. No idea how my elderly grandmother managed as she had rheumatoid arthritis in her hands. Small mercy for colour coded dots!
True! It is hard to decipher what to do sometimes! Glad this was helpful :D
Very informative video, I just got a used one & older model, it was kind of tricky figuring out the diagram, specially threading the second thread, now I know how to do it. Thank You !!
thank you for watching! so glad it was helpful! enjoy your machine!
Great vidoe im using my mums old machine and thank your for showing me how to use it. X
Thanks for watching! Glad it was helpful :)
Great instructions. I have the same overlocker. Bought at a garage sale as well. I am having difficulty finding needles. Do you know were I can buy needles for this overlocker?
Thanks for this video, I got this serger for christmas!
Yay! Have fun with it. Thanks for watching.
Thanks & blessings ❤😊
thanks for watching! :)
Thank you, I needed this.
YAY! So glad it was helpful!! Thanks for tuning in and happy serging :D
Great Good! Very informative. Thank You!
Thanks so much for watching!! Glad you enjoyed.
That’s a well made serger ❤
Yep it's a nice little machine!
I have been thinking about getting a used serger; could you share your opinion on the best used serger and suggest some models I should keep an eye out for?
I am a JUKI brand loyalist. I have the Juki MO-735 which is a combo machine that does serging and coverstitch. The MO-114 is a great lower priced option that has everything you could want in a serger. If you desire some ease-of-use functions, the MO-1000 has air-threading and needle threaders. Those are my favorites, hope that helps in your search!
Sei stata chiarissima, grazie
grazie!
Good video!
Glad you enjoyed it
This is the same model I have. The manual doesn't say anything about oiling it (or lowering the tension when I thread it. I never do). I've seen on other models that people oil them from that top little hole. I've never seen it for this particular model. Do you know how to oil it?
There's a little "elbow" kind of an apparatus where you put a drop, and also a spot where you'll see a shaft going through a big nut-type thing. Put a drop there as well. :) Thanks for watching!
Hi could you please advise me..... Is it possible to do a rolled hem, on this masjien?
Bonjour très chouette vidéo mais personnes parlent qu'on peut élargir le point en changeant la distance du couteau avec les deux petites visses du devant.....
Good Morning, please do you know what size of needle the singer 14 u34 uses?
Just like a regular sewing machine you can use a range of needles. Universals are fine if you plan to sew on wovens, ballpoint or stretch needles if that is what the fabric requires (stretchy / synthetic materials do better with stretch or ballpoint needles. If you are getting skipped stitches this can be a solution). You can do sizes from 70 - 90 just like your normal machine Thicker needle for thicker fabric. It's not going to make a huge difference and most needles you're using on other machines will be fine.
Thank you
@@habagaba877 These older Singer Ultralock Sergers (made for Singer at the time by Juki) lack some of the features of modern machines, but are better made than almost any new serger you can buy today, and definitely in a different class from the current ones branded Singer.
Many sergers use normal domestic sewing machine needles, but not these.
They won't fit as they are too fat. This is deliberate as they lack the additional thread groove these machines need to work properly Look up Singer 2054 needles for the proper ones - Schmetz make them coded as SY2054 in 10/12/14 sizes but generally only as "universal" point I think.
Comment faire un ourlet ourloter avec cette surjeteuse
Hello! This machine does not have the ability to disengage the stitch finger, so you have to have a separate throat plate that is made for rolled hemming, which doesn't have the stitch finger. If you have that, you can put that on.
Then remove the left needle.
Change the blade position to 1.5mm.
Change stitch length to 2 or F.
Set the upper looper tension to a lower number (around 3.5 ), set the lower looper tension to a higher number (around 6-7).
Do a few tests and make subtle changes to the tensions until you get the result you like. The goal is to have the threads locking together on the back side of the fabric instead of right at the edge.
If you don't have that accessory, is not going to make a true rolled hem. However you can still change all those setting and achieve a narrow overlock and it will look very close to a rolled hem.
Hope that helps!
Thanks for watching.