Thanks for the tip on how to make the gear puller. It took me 2 hours to get it off. But it is off. Once my rebuild kit comes in. I will get the seals, bearings, and gears replaced and I should be ,good for another 150K.
Great video! I have an '03 R53 with 157k miles and have recently got the "death rattle". I expect my gears are trashed. This video helps me understand exactly how the supercharger drives the water pump. Thanks for this! I'm not too interested in going to electric water pump so I am now deciding my next course of action.
Yeah man, glad you got something out of it! I don't get alot of feedback, whether likes or whatever. I would remove one gear and go to an electric water pump, if the rest of it looks good. Just double check the rotor needle bearings
ha, i didn't read the no electric WP part. I do know that piece parts were not available readily in the past. Unless someone has started making the rear gears
theres a vid on youtube with a guy sitting at a bench with a sc taken apart. they rebuild and port the sc. he also said they have the gears for pump side.i found it. its Stiegemeier Porting
I used slick 50 manual gearbox oil mixed with the oil that comes in a refurb kit - 60ml slick 50 topped up to make 140ml and 20ml plus 20ml for 40mls and it works a treat as the manual gear box oil is for high speeds and high temperatures 😃👍🏻
Hi, I’ve decided against trying to fabricate the tool. 1) remove the pump side cover 2) remove the snout 3) screw a bolt into the small gear on the pump side 4) tap bolt with a hammer to release the rotors and pulley side. Small gear drops off 5) replace pump side seal 6) push rotors back inside and replace gear 7) add anaerobic sealant to snout and bolt in. 8) replace small gear and seal pump side. Can you tell me what’s happening at 10:40? It looks like you have a wrench attached. Are you tightening something? Cheers, Luke.
10:40 is just pressing the gear on the shaft, which you did. yeah your way is good, some may not want to take off the snout, I did just to look at the cavity and make sure there were no fine metal pieces in there, and curiosity
Thanks. I ‘think’ you are using a large socket and then tightening a bolt into the small cog’s shaft to press down the socket and press the cog back onto the shaft. Is that accurate? Thanks, Luke.
Great thank you. Followed your photos and it’s done. Replaced the seal. Used loctite 510 to seal both ends and popped the new water pump on. Fingers crossed I haven’t stuffed anything up:)
ive got to say its a very trick filled and informative vid . love the lack of crappy music. LOL. what brand of seal was that ?also is there one for the front?
cr6213 is a standard part number from many vendors, in the USA, Motion Industries has them. I do not recall the manufacturer. The front seals would be more complicated to replace and generally are not a problem.
Hi i‘m trying to replace my gear as well. I‘ve rebuilt the tool like you did but it didn‘t work for me, the tool broke apart. Do you have any advise on what other things i could try to take the gear off?
actually no, it sounds like you ended up too thin with the tool that is modified for this. You may could take it to a machine shop and they may have a proper sized puller. other than that I would try again with a fresh one and modify it. with my effort it was close to being too thin
If I’m just replacing the pto seal behind the small gear, can I just pull the gear off with the cut down tool without removing the pulley side as you’ve done? So 1) remove pto cover 2) pull off small cog 3) remove old seal 4) insert new seal and press in 5) press on cog Cheers
Great thank you. I’ve just ordered the seal. If anyone is struggling to find it, got the equivalent from Powerhouse automotive in UK. Suspect I’ll be going through a couple of those pullers. Wish me luck:)
@@lukemowbray4944 they are pretty tough all in all you can make one a little more precisely than I did in terms of feet metal depth consistency that would help. you got this!
unfortunately no. the biggest problem without careful deconstruction would be rotor timing. also as you have likely found there are not spares listed for almost any part of the unit. at some point "new" unit is the only option
You only changed the seal on the POT side. What about disassembling the gears that drive the rotors? Are these gears mounted on keys, splines? If the PTO side seal was worn, did the same wear happen to the drive end seals? There was no oil weep there? Any way great job.
Didn't do that. Main reason I think is that the seal engineering on that side is better. The oil capacity is larger, and can be checked more readily. So I have no idea how the drive side gears are datumed. If there was oil weep there it was minimal, also I had that oil swapped once on the drive side by extraction
mainly because no one complains about it, other than the seal. I did think about doing more but mainly that would be the needle bearings in the housing at the back. I think the front bearings and seals are more robust. there is some indexing that I also didn't necessarily see or look too hard for with respect to gear teeth and rotor position
SKF is listed as a maker. in the usa a search turns up lots of sources. I bought it from "motion industries" here locally because I wanted a good source. alot of foreign stuff can be close but not close enough. I do not remember the actual manfacturer
Hmm, my mini has started to rattle badly from the Supercharger and now the mini overheats and boils the water. If the teeth are worn off badly would that prevent the water pump turning hence the overheating ? Or overheating as SC is not spinning correctly. Death rattle is bad.
water pumps go bad in a number of ways, it may not at all be that 2 prong coupling at the back and simply the impeller or casing gaskets going bad(if you are losing water too). I luckily avoided the death rattle. I would imagine given the design of the supercharger if the needle bearings are bad and there is too much "housing scraping" that supercharger will never create the same boost even if the bearings are repaired. It's all a very tight tolerance fit. But you will have to get it all apart to know
@@samthing4thetrack806 thanks 🙏🏻 yes i’m loosing water too. The SC needs to be serviced anyway or replaced. Would be changing the water pump anyway. It all happened fairly quickly. Right foot might have been abit too heavy up until i noticed it 😂. I dont have the tools for the job so will need to find someone and most likely just hand over my wallet. Is the death rattle referring to the two PTO gears skipping over each other due to being worn or missing teeth? Got ta love the mini! Thanks again!
@@bitcoinbusker Yes I would imagine the death rattle appears seemingly instantly. i am not sure what the death rattle is exactly. I assume that one rear needle bearing goes bad because of the seal going bad that I replaced. something is causing the rotors to wobble. plus if that rear oil chamber gets very low or empty then more heat and friction and more damage to the back of the supercharger causing wobble. I would plan for a pretty hefty bill those SC are expensive as well as the labor will be at least 10 hrs or more... water pumps not as much. some people swap to electric pumps which were pricey. an underdrive pulley drives the water pump faster and results in a drop of coolant temp.
Idk... maybe you can find one- they aren't expensive- and measure it. I don't have the dimensions but often they are published in a description for the seal. or in a seal maker's catalog. honestly I published this video after I found a forum where a guy in the USA did this same work and used that seal.
Sweet, I did it well before I posted, this is the largest count post I have. The seal was quoted in a mini forum somewhere. And I knew I needed to do it. I assumed there is a gasket from the factory it's just not super effective over time as it is very thin, likely thermal cycles cause it to weep the oil. I do think they should find a better way to seal it, instead of just claiming it's a 100K mile wear item- the entire supercharger.
Also the collared seal is likely better than the OEM type if that is what you found from SKF, you may want to post that number here, it may help people in other markets vs. North America.
@@vasilisrroshi8642 aha! ok I thot you had found the original non collared one as a replacement. I am thinking I should inspect the system at 50k Miles knowing what I know now
Hi, I just wanted to ask you for the combination of oils that you used and what led you to this decision? I am currently willing to perform this service on my R53 and I am trying to gather as much information and tips as I can. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
I had some standard AC-Delco(factory) and recommended. I used it in the larger "front". It is very thin and I worried about "seep through", so I used Redline MTL in the "back". This is thicker and an ester based oil. Part of the "loss" may be that thinner oil migrating past a rear seal. IDK if you can get MTL easily, it is a really good gear oil for transmissions. I think the weight is published on their website, it is at least lower than straight "90". I would put MTL in both chambers if I didn't have the recommended. So look for something equivalent, I believe Motul makes alot of ester based stuff. Liqui-Moly IDK some of there's is not.
The rattle noise I would suspect is from the bearings at the back inside the air chamber or at the front worn. My unit was ok, no noise. I have noise from the Flywheel/Clutch tho and that often sounds like Supercharger. Been doing that since I bought the car in 2013
Great video. What size thread bolt did you use to push the gear back on and did you do the other seal as there are two, Thanks mate. Hope for a quick response as I intend in doing what you done
2 seals? you may be confused the front part of the SC has 2 seals the rear has only one seal in the back to change. If you look at the interior shaft boss the top shaft does not go through. The second one does only to drive the pump. The front seals are not a problem generally, I did not replace them. I cannot remember what bolt I used, it's a metric found on most cars, you can probably find one laying around. Looking at it I am guessing 10mm diameter, i think there is one thread for those usually. I wouldn't use an OEM seal. You can just drain the front and reoil it but I decided to take it all apart for "fun" and to reseal the front perhaps in a better way
Those pullers are easy to find by themselves now. I actually bought a front end puller set that had this one in it first. But yes, grind, grind. Might be easier to band saw some on the back. The kicker with the back is just clearing the other gear boss. The front it's just the feet. And yeah go easy on the feet to find the minimum removal, else they may break
That's the main feedback as an air passage somewhere above for the supercharger boost level, I believe. None of that was swapped out, so if you look at the rest of the video you can see the tube in the same place.
@@samthing4thetrack806 thanks, looking to put a supercharger in my normal non superchargered cooper, do u think it’s possible or is there things that the standard engine doesn’t have?
Woohoo 10K views! Thanks for all the likes!!!
finally someone opens up a M45 on youtube, thank you.
Superchargers are way simpler than I thought in bolt together the magic is in the tolerances for sure
Thanks for the tip on how to make the gear puller. It took me 2 hours to get it off. But it is off. Once my rebuild kit comes in. I will get the seals, bearings, and gears replaced and I should be ,good for another 150K.
yeah, I think could probably take it to a machine shop and have them pull it, but this is a pretty cheap way to do it, with some time
Great video! I have an '03 R53 with 157k miles and have recently got the "death rattle". I expect my gears are trashed. This video helps me understand exactly how the supercharger drives the water pump. Thanks for this! I'm not too interested in going to electric water pump so I am now deciding my next course of action.
Yeah man, glad you got something out of it! I don't get alot of feedback, whether likes or whatever. I would remove one gear and go to an electric water pump, if the rest of it looks good. Just double check the rotor needle bearings
ha, i didn't read the no electric WP part. I do know that piece parts were not available readily in the past. Unless someone has started making the rear gears
It sounds like a dead cam chain tensioner 🤔
@@KRAM-zb2vc it was, in fact, the PTO gears that drive the water pump. The oil had leaked out and the gears were destroying themselves.
theres a vid on youtube with a guy sitting at a bench with a sc taken apart. they rebuild and port the sc. he also said they have the gears for pump side.i found it. its Stiegemeier Porting
I used slick 50 manual gearbox oil mixed with the oil that comes in a refurb kit - 60ml slick 50 topped up to make 140ml and 20ml plus 20ml for 40mls and it works a treat as the manual gear box oil is for high speeds and high temperatures 😃👍🏻
Is your supercharger doing well ?
@@oscarisinsane yes it's going great 👍🏻
Thanks for sharing this video ...very helpful. Pictures worth a thousand words. 👍
yeah man I am a "visual learner" anyway! glad you got something out of it!
Hi,
I’ve decided against trying to fabricate the tool.
1) remove the pump side cover
2) remove the snout
3) screw a bolt into the small gear on the pump side
4) tap bolt with a hammer to release the rotors and pulley side. Small gear drops off
5) replace pump side seal
6) push rotors back inside and replace gear
7) add anaerobic sealant to snout and bolt in.
8) replace small gear and seal pump side.
Can you tell me what’s happening at 10:40? It looks like you have a wrench attached. Are you tightening something?
Cheers,
Luke.
10:40 is just pressing the gear on the shaft, which you did. yeah your way is good, some may not want to take off the snout, I did just to look at the cavity and make sure there were no fine metal pieces in there, and curiosity
Thanks. I ‘think’ you are using a large socket and then tightening a bolt into the small cog’s shaft to press down the socket and press the cog back onto the shaft. Is that accurate?
Thanks,
Luke.
@@lukemowbray4944 yes sir!
Great thank you. Followed your photos and it’s done. Replaced the seal. Used loctite 510 to seal both ends and popped the new water pump on.
Fingers crossed I haven’t stuffed anything up:)
@@lukemowbray4944 ha, yeah it always is a worry when doing the unknown, as long as you feel good about it it's probably ok!
ive got to say its a very trick filled and informative vid . love the lack of crappy music. LOL. what brand of seal was that ?also is there one for the front?
cr6213 is a standard part number from many vendors, in the USA, Motion Industries has them. I do not recall the manufacturer. The front seals would be more complicated to replace and generally are not a problem.
Hi i‘m trying to replace my gear as well. I‘ve rebuilt the tool like you did but it didn‘t work for me, the tool broke apart. Do you have any advise on what other things i could try to take the gear off?
actually no, it sounds like you ended up too thin with the tool that is modified for this. You may could take it to a machine shop and they may have a proper sized puller. other than that I would try again with a fresh one and modify it. with my effort it was close to being too thin
If I’m just replacing the pto seal behind the small gear, can I just pull the gear off with the cut down tool without removing the pulley side as you’ve done?
So
1) remove pto cover
2) pull off small cog
3) remove old seal
4) insert new seal and press in
5) press on cog
Cheers
yes, I only wanted to make sure there was nothing that I could miss by taking the front portion apart as well
Great thank you. I’ve just ordered the seal. If anyone is struggling to find it, got the equivalent from Powerhouse automotive in UK.
Suspect I’ll be going through a couple of those pullers. Wish me luck:)
@@lukemowbray4944 they are pretty tough all in all you can make one a little more precisely than I did in terms of feet metal depth consistency that would help. you got this!
Thanks @@samthing4thetrack806:)
Do you have more information about the parts needed to do a full restoration? Duch as what type of bearings and al the other seals?
unfortunately no. the biggest problem without careful deconstruction would be rotor timing. also as you have likely found there are not spares listed for almost any part of the unit. at some point "new" unit is the only option
You only changed the seal on the POT side. What about disassembling the gears that drive the rotors? Are these gears mounted on keys, splines? If the PTO side seal was worn, did the same wear happen to the drive end seals? There was no oil weep there? Any way great job.
Didn't do that. Main reason I think is that the seal engineering on that side is better. The oil capacity is larger, and can be checked more readily. So I have no idea how the drive side gears are datumed. If there was oil weep there it was minimal, also I had that oil swapped once on the drive side by extraction
Why didn't you rebuild the supercharger while you had it apart?
mainly because no one complains about it, other than the seal. I did think about doing more but mainly that would be the needle bearings in the housing at the back. I think the front bearings and seals are more robust. there is some indexing that I also didn't necessarily see or look too hard for with respect to gear teeth and rotor position
Where fo you get the seal CR6213 from as I can't find it
SKF is listed as a maker. in the usa a search turns up lots of sources. I bought it from "motion industries" here locally because I wanted a good source. alot of foreign stuff can be close but not close enough. I do not remember the actual manfacturer
you are a crack thanks to people like you is why youtube must exist, after 18 years looking for what you did, this is priceless 😍 Thank you
Thanks! I was happy that the rear oil chamber wasn't empty! So far so good, car still running like a top!
Hmm, my mini has started to rattle badly from the Supercharger and now the mini overheats and boils the water. If the teeth are worn off badly would that prevent the water pump turning hence the overheating ? Or overheating as SC is not spinning correctly. Death rattle is bad.
water pumps go bad in a number of ways, it may not at all be that 2 prong coupling at the back and simply the impeller or casing gaskets going bad(if you are losing water too).
I luckily avoided the death rattle. I would imagine given the design of the supercharger if the needle bearings are bad and there is too much "housing scraping" that supercharger will never create the same boost even if the bearings are repaired. It's all a very tight tolerance fit. But you will have to get it all apart to know
@@samthing4thetrack806 thanks 🙏🏻 yes i’m loosing water too. The SC needs to be serviced anyway or replaced. Would be changing the water pump anyway. It all happened fairly quickly. Right foot might have been abit too heavy up until i noticed it 😂. I dont have the tools for the job so will need to find someone and most likely just hand over my wallet. Is the death rattle referring to the two PTO gears skipping over each other due to being worn or missing teeth? Got ta love the mini! Thanks again!
@@bitcoinbusker Yes I would imagine the death rattle appears seemingly instantly.
i am not sure what the death rattle is exactly. I assume that one rear needle bearing goes bad because of the seal going bad that I replaced. something is causing the rotors to wobble. plus if that rear oil chamber gets very low or empty then more heat and friction and more damage to the back of the supercharger causing wobble.
I would plan for a pretty hefty bill those SC are expensive as well as the labor will be at least 10 hrs or more... water pumps not as much. some people swap to electric pumps which were pricey. an underdrive pulley drives the water pump faster and results in a drop of coolant temp.
I was wondering if the CR6213 seal will work with a sprintex supercharger or know a cross reference, I’m working on a sprintex s5 210
Idk... maybe you can find one- they aren't expensive- and measure it. I don't have the dimensions but often they are published in a description for the seal. or in a seal maker's catalog. honestly I published this video after I found a forum where a guy in the USA did this same work and used that seal.
I did exactly the same thing....skf makes the seal for it very difficult to find. From factory they use anaerobic gasket maker..
Sweet, I did it well before I posted, this is the largest count post I have. The seal was quoted in a mini forum somewhere. And I knew I needed to do it.
I assumed there is a gasket from the factory it's just not super effective over time as it is very thin, likely thermal cycles cause it to weep the oil. I do think they should find a better way to seal it, instead of just claiming it's a 100K mile wear item- the entire supercharger.
Also the collared seal is likely better than the OEM type if that is what you found from SKF, you may want to post that number here, it may help people in other markets vs. North America.
@@samthing4thetrack806 I think is. The same numbers that you have but I’ll check it.
The seal is labeld cr6213
@@vasilisrroshi8642 aha! ok I thot you had found the original non collared one as a replacement.
I am thinking I should inspect the system at 50k Miles knowing what I know now
Hi, I just wanted to ask you for the combination of oils that you used and what led you to this decision? I am currently willing to perform this service on my R53 and I am trying to gather as much information and tips as I can. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!
I had some standard AC-Delco(factory) and recommended. I used it in the larger "front". It is very thin and I worried about "seep through", so I used Redline MTL in the "back". This is thicker and an ester based oil. Part of the "loss" may be that thinner oil migrating past a rear seal. IDK if you can get MTL easily, it is a really good gear oil for transmissions. I think the weight is published on their website, it is at least lower than straight "90". I would put MTL in both chambers if I didn't have the recommended. So look for something equivalent, I believe Motul makes alot of ester based stuff. Liqui-Moly IDK some of there's is not.
I'm looking to rebuild mine it's making a rattling noise. Did you have to measure the clearance or did it just pretty much fall into place
The rattle noise I would suspect is from the bearings at the back inside the air chamber or at the front worn. My unit was ok, no noise. I have noise from the Flywheel/Clutch tho and that often sounds like Supercharger. Been doing that since I bought the car in 2013
thank you ! great vid
you are welcome!
Great video. What size thread bolt did you use to push the gear back on and did you do the other seal as there are two, Thanks mate. Hope for a quick response as I intend in doing what you done
2 seals? you may be confused the front part of the SC has 2 seals the rear has only one seal in the back to change. If you look at the interior shaft boss the top shaft does not go through. The second one does only to drive the pump. The front seals are not a problem generally, I did not replace them. I cannot remember what bolt I used, it's a metric found on most cars, you can probably find one laying around. Looking at it I am guessing 10mm diameter, i think there is one thread for those usually. I wouldn't use an OEM seal. You can just drain the front and reoil it but I decided to take it all apart for "fun" and to reseal the front perhaps in a better way
Did you make that gear puller or buy it then grind down the feet?
Those pullers are easy to find by themselves now. I actually bought a front end puller set that had this one in it first. But yes, grind, grind. Might be easier to band saw some on the back. The kicker with the back is just clearing the other gear boss. The front it's just the feet. And yeah go easy on the feet to find the minimum removal, else they may break
@@samthing4thetrack806 Thanks for your help buddy
@@Wasabi346 you are welcome need to keep the little beasties good and going
What does the tube at 1:07 go to?
That's the main feedback as an air passage somewhere above for the supercharger boost level, I believe. None of that was swapped out, so if you look at the rest of the video you can see the tube in the same place.
@@samthing4thetrack806 thanks, looking to put a supercharger in my normal non superchargered cooper, do u think it’s possible or is there things that the standard engine doesn’t have?
@@Ben_dillon I believe there would be quite a bit to it, lowering compression ratio etc.
Thank you for the video - Less ViDeO EffecTs requested j8Oo
even on x2 speed this drags on and on
Cuz you dont look and understand the pictures. i appreciated having long enough time to understand what im seeing
You can zip thru my hitting the direction-right key, as that will advance the video 5 sec each time.