This one's going straight to my "Tutorials" playlist. Great job. This is exactly how a short should be. Short, straight to the point, and easy to follow. Fantastic
Do they, because they could have changed the thread fit by changing the tolerance class. Also if your printer is tuned well, you can get normal threads to work fine. I have printed down to 32tpi for sprinkler heads. It also matters the quality of the exported model. If the segment lengths are too long, it makes the threads bind.
@@liamdj6535 Tune your printer so that the parts fit. It largely doesn't matter what one you have. Standard machine thread 1A 1B tolerances are just fine. The method here will make for sloppy fits once all the bumpy spots wear off. I run an Ender 3 and have printed 5/8-32 threads just fine. The parts are a little tight at first which could be addressed if I tuned it better, but are fine once worked back and forth a bit. Also the model needs to be exported in fine resolution. If the line segments of the stl are too long it makes the threads stick because it isn't very round.
Man more of these please! Honestly if you covered some general topics as a way for me to get a quick "lay of the land" of what I need to learn for printing/fusion that'd be awesome!
This is rad... I've only been 3D printing since the beginning of this year and have been wanting to dip my toes into actually doing CAD stuff now that I am comfortable with the basics.
I'm ngl this is the most helpful thing ever. have been wondering how to actually consider 3d printing tolerances in something as complex as a thread, and this helps a lot!! ty :D
Been making threads for years now with Fusion. Great info, learned a thing or two. One thing that I have found to make threads print cleaner and more successfully as of late is the "variable layer height" option in Orca Slicer. Works a treat.
Sometimes I just put the threads on just one body and then I use the combined tool to cut the threads into the other body. Then I adjust tolerances like you did.
Just open minor diameter of ID threads and a make the major diameter smaller on the OD thread. That simple, only certain tapered threads actually have interference on thread faces like pipe threads that need to seal. I think it's great your getting through this with obviously zero machining experience. Buy a mini desktop mill and make things out of aluminum from fusion. 3D print is cool, but you won't ever get the gratification you get from holding a machined part you used multiple tools and creating a successful program.
I find if you want a tight snug threat don‘t add tolerances and just print as is, after using it a little it will spin smoothly but still close tightly.
Idk how I never noticed the thread tool has a modeled option. Also surprised that push/pull works on threads. It tends to get mad when you try to use it on complex geometry ime
Fusion360 in 30 days will get you there. I excelled in SOLIDWORKS which makes simpler programs like Fusion360 quite the challenge since the principals are different
Lol I just got lucky with mine, only ever printed a nut and bolt as a way to test filament and calibrate my extruder so i just picked a random thread and used it on both pieces with no adjustment. This is definitely more ideal.
i do everything you said also i try to put a chamfer on it use a sketch and revolver tool, depends on the printing orentation, watch out for flat face overhangs, even when its small, sometimes can cause fails.
That works when you have other folks models that don’t quite fit! I still recommend if you design your own then the threads to add tolerance in the model. It won’t sit flush with one another and there’ll be a tiny lip on the top. How negligible depends on the size of the thread 😄
Additionally, if you’re using something like a metal screw you don’t need to add threads to your print because the screw will cut them automatically and the increased friction will make the hold stronger. If you do this with two 3D printed parts they will break. Harder materials cut into softer materials.
@@levelgx yes if it’s on metal parts.. but molded parts comes out with the thread. Also the thread is different and stronger where it engages. Maybe I should do a video that shows how to do it the “Right” way. But hey.. if it works.. :-)
The only problem I have with the thread tool is that you can‘t chose the pitch. I am using the screw tool. It‘s more involved but much higher customization.
That approach only works, if you have a rotationally symmetric object. If you want stuff to align you need to create only one thread and then "cut" the thread out of the other object, while they sit in the desired orientation.
Can you show me how to do mates/joints in fusion360? I love using fusion over solidworks, but i prefer solidworks mating tool over fusion. Mainly bc it confuses tf out of me.
Definitely don’t do that. Lowering it arbitrarily like that would lead to weaker layer adhesion, incorrect dimensions, and likely some under-extrusion. You definitely want to add tolerances.
Why not just make the surfaces different diameter to begin with instead of making them the same and then needing to go back in after to do a negative offset? Giving it some tolerance to begin with is easier
Is there a thread that uses a 45° pitch that way it could be printed on almost every printer? There needs to be a plug-in for ideal 3dp threads instead of using ones designed for other manufacturing processes.
I still dont understand tolerances... I was trying to 3d print bases for miniatures. 1 large base with two slots for two smaller bases that would allow me to display the miniatures as a couple but for the game time each base has their own singular base cavities to give them a standard size base. Im unsure if Im doing the tolerance right cuz the slots are tad too tight... So any advice on understanding tolerance would be helpful. Note: I have gone to a trade school for CADD and while tolerance was talked about the professor explained it in such a way that I just couldn't grasp. It also didnt help the majority of the course was more for how to build blue prints for buildings and homes. Blue prints that construction workers and hvac guys use. Oddly enough my gpa was enough to pass the course.despite flunking the last few tests and projects but unfortunately they never mailed my certificate. I dont really care too much as I did walk away with abit more knowledge for 3d printing but not enough to do something with it. Sorry if this was long winded.
Tolerance is a small gap between parts that allows them to fit correctly when manufactured. For example, if you wanted a pin to fit in a hole, and made both have a diameter of 10.000000000...mm, the pin would not fit or would have to be hammered in due to imprecision in the process. If, instead you made the pin 9.9mm and the hole 10.1mm, the pin would move freely. The value used in your design is highly dependent on the manufacturing process, the desired fit, and the type of part.
Just a quick search and you’ll find a better explanation than I can give you in a comment. Basically I used a coil cut, mirror, and then a circular pattern.
That’s what I did and I created it with a coil cut, mirror, and circular pattern. I’d imagine there are a variety of ways to accomplish the same thing though.
Just fyi, Fusion is an Autodesk software and more of an industry standard so if you ever were to do it professionally, there would be more employers requesting those skill sets but if it’s for a hobby, both are great.
@@district99 me too actually and I earned my way into a CAD and Design roll eventually without formal training. Learning Fusion 360 at home just with RUclips and designing anything I could for fun.
As an example: on a 3d extruded part like a cylinder, select the top surface. I will typically make my own textures by drawing a square tangent to the cylinder outer most edge. The square will be positioned 50% on the circle and 50% off. I then cut extrude that square shape into the cylinder. I then use the 3D circular tool to mimic that extrusion around the whole part to make a texture. If you know your way around plane mechanics in inventor, you can do some wacky things.
Any way of getting a perpetual/semi perpetual license for Fusion? I had the one year free thing and because I used it so infrequently a year passed without me knowing…
Fascinating, brings me back to taking fusion classes in community college
Glad you liked it 😁
So slick. Simple, no frills, no experience catalog and overviews of 37 things you made with this, just info.
Nicely done.
Thank you 😁 Glad you liked my presentation style !
The offset step was exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Glad you found it useful!
This one's going straight to my "Tutorials" playlist. Great job. This is exactly how a short should be. Short, straight to the point, and easy to follow. Fantastic
Glad you found it enjoyable 😁
The offset part is extremely helpful, it’s very difficult to tolerance for 3d printing without that simple bit of info.
Thanks 🙏🏻
Nicely explained. Short and straight to the solution. Keep it up!
Thank you very much 😁
As someone who always struggled with threads, this definitely helped me!
Glad I could help 😄
Finally, someone that understands how to properly model 3d printed threads.
Do they, because they could have changed the thread fit by changing the tolerance class. Also if your printer is tuned well, you can get normal threads to work fine. I have printed down to 32tpi for sprinkler heads. It also matters the quality of the exported model. If the segment lengths are too long, it makes the threads bind.
@@court2379changing the tolerance is necessary on most printers
@@liamdj6535 Tune your printer so that the parts fit. It largely doesn't matter what one you have. Standard machine thread 1A 1B tolerances are just fine. The method here will make for sloppy fits once all the bumpy spots wear off.
I run an Ender 3 and have printed 5/8-32 threads just fine. The parts are a little tight at first which could be addressed if I tuned it better, but are fine once worked back and forth a bit.
Also the model needs to be exported in fine resolution. If the line segments of the stl are too long it makes the threads stick because it isn't very round.
Now this was a good Shorts video. Props.
Thank you 😁
Man more of these please! Honestly if you covered some general topics as a way for me to get a quick "lay of the land" of what I need to learn for printing/fusion that'd be awesome!
📝📝🔥
Great video. All tutorials should be just like this
That offset faces option would have saved me a looooooot of time. Thanks 👍
Glad you found it helpful!
Thank you!!! I’ve been wanting to do threads on my 3D prints, and this is a perfect tutorial.
This is rad... I've only been 3D printing since the beginning of this year and have been wanting to dip my toes into actually doing CAD stuff now that I am comfortable with the basics.
It’s a whole heck of a lot of fun once you get your basics down! Then you can really make some awesome stuff! Glad you enjoyed it 😄
Best dam explanation I’ve ever seen on yt concerning 360 and 3d modeling. 🎉BRAVO!
Thank you so so much 🙏🏼 Much appreciated
keep them coming my man! you def get a follow from this maker!
@@thematterforge
Instant sub, I needed to learn threads for a project, and you couldn't make it simpler. Thank you!
🙌🏻 Glad you enjoyed !
Important point about plastic threaded caps; theyre usually not fluid tight unless the thread’s grip drives a wedge stop into the primary opening.
I'm ngl this is the most helpful thing ever. have been wondering how to actually consider 3d printing tolerances in something as complex as a thread, and this helps a lot!! ty :D
Glad you found it helpful 😄
Been making threads for years now with Fusion. Great info, learned a thing or two. One thing that I have found to make threads print cleaner and more successfully as of late is the "variable layer height" option in Orca Slicer. Works a treat.
📝📝 👍🏼
You just earned a sub my friend.
Thank you very much 😄
Sometimes I just put the threads on just one body and then I use the combined tool to cut the threads into the other body. Then I adjust tolerances like you did.
Just open minor diameter of ID threads and a make the major diameter smaller on the OD thread. That simple, only certain tapered threads actually have interference on thread faces like pipe threads that need to seal. I think it's great your getting through this with obviously zero machining experience. Buy a mini desktop mill and make things out of aluminum from fusion. 3D print is cool, but you won't ever get the gratification you get from holding a machined part you used multiple tools and creating a successful program.
Thank you for this video. Makes me wanna keep learning fusion.
Nice thank you can’t wait to keep learning
In this short video you've opened me up to making so many things! Thank you! 🎉
I haven't checked your channel but I'm subbed. Clean, quick, precise video. I really wish more RUclipsrs get this message. Great job!
Thank you so much 😊
Been looking for Smth like this. Thx
I need to learn some Fusion. I've been a Maya guy for a quarter century, and it doesn't do a lot of this.
I find if you want a tight snug threat don‘t add tolerances and just print as is, after using it a little it will spin smoothly but still close tightly.
Very true! Also the material will determine how quickly the threads will wear.
This video can change my life ❤
❤️🙌🏻
Nice work!
Thank you! 😄
Idk how I never noticed the thread tool has a modeled option. Also surprised that push/pull works on threads. It tends to get mad when you try to use it on complex geometry ime
Its not in my inventor ?
What an awesome use of a short
i think i made a mistake by trying to learn blender. this looks way more functional
damn all my threaded prints where always so tight this video helped me so much thank you
😄 Glad you found it useful
Need full tutorial...... I am little good with solidworks but wanna give 360 a try
Fusion360 in 30 days will get you there. I excelled in SOLIDWORKS which makes simpler programs like Fusion360 quite the challenge since the principals are different
I was literally wondering this then came across your video! Thanks mate 🎉
Of course ! Glad you enjoyed
Awesome video! I'll have to give this a shot
You got this ! 🤙🏼
Lol I just got lucky with mine, only ever printed a nut and bolt as a way to test filament and calibrate my extruder so i just picked a random thread and used it on both pieces with no adjustment. This is definitely more ideal.
Wish Fusion360 had a 'Yeah, I'm 3d printing this thread' button that added the tolerances automatically
Offset face of the thread. You just saved my life. I was using the thread tool from my lathe with the hand…😂
Brother THANK YOU for this
🙌🏻
Fantastic!
Fyi you can cut away the threads then offset the thread tolerances
Amazing❤
Thank you 🙏🏼
Super clean video man, earned a sub from me 👌
Thanks so much ! Glad you enjoyed it
That tolerance tip just blew my mind
🤯
Sick threads.
Thank you!
i do everything you said also i try to put a chamfer on it use a sketch and revolver tool, depends on the printing orentation, watch out for flat face overhangs, even when its small, sometimes can cause fails.
I normaly increase lid size by 1% on the slicer. Works every time.
That works when you have other folks models that don’t quite fit! I still recommend if you design your own then the threads to add tolerance in the model. It won’t sit flush with one another and there’ll be a tiny lip on the top. How negligible depends on the size of the thread 😄
you can make the thread even bigger PD using a tripplestart threat.
Very helpful
Love it
😁
Additionally, if you’re using something like a metal screw you don’t need to add threads to your print because the screw will cut them automatically and the increased friction will make the hold stronger.
If you do this with two 3D printed parts they will break. Harder materials cut into softer materials.
Threading the nut with the bolt gives more of a nylon lock nut feel, whereas modeled threads with a bit of tolerance spin like a normal nut would.
Thank you man
Glad you enjoyed 😄
If yoy change the thread class to 3a/b itll increase the tolerance and save a step...
Luckily Fusion does this well but Inventor, you still have to draw them manually or use a plugin
Yes it does it well.. for machined parts. But this is not a machine part but more like a molded part and that is a complete different thread.
@@DenRoedeMogM right, I’m talking about for the sake of 3d printing
@@DenRoedeMogM to my experience, investors only does simulated threats and are just represented for a drawing.
@@levelgx yes if it’s on metal parts.. but molded parts comes out with the thread. Also the thread is different and stronger where it engages. Maybe I should do a video that shows how to do it the “Right” way. But hey.. if it works.. :-)
@@DenRoedeMogM I’ll check that out man, thanks!!
Software name please? I am new to 3d printing
Thanks in advance
Fusion 360
The only problem I have with the thread tool is that you can‘t chose the pitch.
I am using the screw tool. It‘s more involved but much higher customization.
Thread pitch is on there! Maybe it isn’t supported by the thread type
As for tolerancing there is al tolerance option th the thread menu, the default is 6h/6H
I scale the male threads down by 5% and female threads up by 5% ( only in the x and y plane)
and then there is me in inventor manually making my threads because there isn't an inbuilt thread system
That approach only works, if you have a rotationally symmetric object. If you want stuff to align you need to create only one thread and then "cut" the thread out of the other object, while they sit in the desired orientation.
Super valuable info for making working joints in CAD! Always nice to see things fit together on screen before printing them out.
Amazing
i was amazed wen i got my bambu that 0.1mm or 0.05mm could make a difference!
very helpful!
Thanks so much 😁
This is the way.
That’s a weird grinder, do you add the mesh and everything after?
It’s not a grinder 🤦🏻♂️
Just select class 1 or 2 threads. No need to add clearance
Great video mate! But you mean clearance not tolerance 👍
man.. where tf was this video when I was doing my threaded container 3 days ago
The algorithm hath shineth
👍💓
Sweet
Epic, thanks
Surprised they fit. Overhang usually give crappy tolerance
Can you show me how to do mates/joints in fusion360? I love using fusion over solidworks, but i prefer solidworks mating tool over fusion. Mainly bc it confuses tf out of me.
I can add this to my list 😁 Lots of content to come in 2024!
There is a lot to 3d printing id like to have one but not sure how well id be able to use it
That’s where everyone starts man! Just make sure you do some research, budget, and then go for it!
I’m more interested in how you did that knurling….
Or no need to make torelance, just made your printer flow to %90
Definitely don’t do that. Lowering it arbitrarily like that would lead to weaker layer adhesion, incorrect dimensions, and likely some under-extrusion.
You definitely want to add tolerances.
Unless the machine was overextruding before, this is NOT the solution. Try horizontal expansion instead.
@@user2C47 Agreed! Horizontal expansion settings are essential for getting prints to be strong and still fit precisely.
Why have I literally never used offset face, I can think of so many projects I’ve wasted HOURS ON IM GONNA SCREAM
😂😂 Glad I could save you some hours of frustration in the future lol
"you can put your weed in there"
How did you do the knurling?
Quick search on RUclips will get you a tutorial, though there’s a few ways to do it.
How did you do the animation thing? I've been trying to figure it out for a long time.
You can animate joints! Just mate 2 components with a joint and you can edit and drive the joints in the joint menu
Why not just make the surfaces different diameter to begin with instead of making them the same and then needing to go back in after to do a negative offset? Giving it some tolerance to begin with is easier
Is there a thread that uses a 45° pitch that way it could be printed on almost every printer?
There needs to be a plug-in for ideal 3dp threads instead of using ones designed for other manufacturing processes.
The angle of the threads just depend on what kind of thread type you choose. ISO Metric works well for 3D printing!
Is there a slower version or this video ?
Plenty of tutorials out there! 😁
I still dont understand tolerances...
I was trying to 3d print bases for miniatures. 1 large base with two slots for two smaller bases that would allow me to display the miniatures as a couple but for the game time each base has their own singular base cavities to give them a standard size base.
Im unsure if Im doing the tolerance right cuz the slots are tad too tight...
So any advice on understanding tolerance would be helpful.
Note: I have gone to a trade school for CADD and while tolerance was talked about the professor explained it in such a way that I just couldn't grasp. It also didnt help the majority of the course was more for how to build blue prints for buildings and homes. Blue prints that construction workers and hvac guys use.
Oddly enough my gpa was enough to pass the course.despite flunking the last few tests and projects but unfortunately they never mailed my certificate. I dont really care too much as I did walk away with abit more knowledge for 3d printing but not enough to do something with it.
Sorry if this was long winded.
Tolerance is a small gap between parts that allows them to fit correctly when manufactured. For example, if you wanted a pin to fit in a hole, and made both have a diameter of 10.000000000...mm, the pin would not fit or would have to be hammered in due to imprecision in the process. If, instead you made the pin 9.9mm and the hole 10.1mm, the pin would move freely. The value used in your design is highly dependent on the manufacturing process, the desired fit, and the type of part.
How do you put in the knurling in fusion?
Just a quick search and you’ll find a better explanation than I can give you in a comment. Basically I used a coil cut, mirror, and then a circular pattern.
How did you do the textur on the side of the lid?
It's called "knurling"
If you search for that term you can find many tutorials
That’s what I did and I created it with a coil cut, mirror, and circular pattern. I’d imagine there are a variety of ways to accomplish the same thing though.
I need more insight, wich one is better, onshape or fusion 360?
Never used OnShape but I really enjoy using Fusion 360
Just fyi, Fusion is an Autodesk software and more of an industry standard so if you ever were to do it professionally, there would be more employers requesting those skill sets but if it’s for a hobby, both are great.
@@levelgx i am self-taught ,onshape is hard enough for me hahahaha.. might be learn fusion 360 for good
@@thematterforge thank you
@@district99 me too actually and I earned my way into a CAD and Design roll eventually without formal training. Learning Fusion 360 at home just with RUclips and designing anything I could for fun.
What software is you use?
Fusion 360
where do you find the section analysis tool?
It’s under tools
@@thematterforge thanks! Great vid btw!
Question 1: How you did texture in top?
It’s called Knurling 😁
As an example: on a 3d extruded part like a cylinder, select the top surface. I will typically make my own textures by drawing a square tangent to the cylinder outer most edge. The square will be positioned 50% on the circle and 50% off. I then cut extrude that square shape into the cylinder. I then use the 3D circular tool to mimic that extrusion around the whole part to make a texture. If you know your way around plane mechanics in inventor, you can do some wacky things.
Any way of getting a perpetual/semi perpetual license for Fusion? I had the one year free thing and because I used it so infrequently a year passed without me knowing…
All you have to do is request more time! Not exactly sure how but I remember reading that you can just renew it after the 3 years.
@@thematterforgeI'll look into that. Thank you :D
what software do you use generally to draw
ProCreate for iPad 😁
Also just pen and paper sometimes
@@thematterforge Great, thanks bro
How did you make the grippy texture on the top comp?
It’s called “Knurling” 😁 Plenty of tutorials out there!
@@thematterforge thanks!
Which software do you used to design the pieces? Thanks!
He used Fusion360
Fusion 360
Which program do you use?
Fusion 360
Can you hold control to select multiple faces for the threading? Or does that mess it up?
You can add the faces all to the same offset command. That way they are all neatly organized and editable!
And how do I do that in 123d design ???