I put a front wheel drive same as your set up . I'm well pleased with mine . Front wheel drive is more stable no wobble at 22mph because its pulling and No poping wheeleys . Great for the wife to . And front is easier installation
I did it I finished my 1200 watt rear hub bike and used the same idea you used . I'm using two 58 volt batteries in parallel instead of one. Saved hundreds of dollars just doing that alone. Mine is not waterproof and wasnt plug and play wiring either. I'm using the SW900 display and I dont see settings to do anything other than pas 1-5. It goes 28.0 mph tops. Don't know how to change it to mph instead of kph. Or change to rim size as I have read. Guess my display can't do that stuff. But that's okay the bike runs very well. I've got no complaints. Thanks to you for the wonderful idea of the battery choice. Works like a charm.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 The batteries are 5.2 amps each for a total of 10.4. They are 58 volt max. I went 8.9 miles yesterday [first ride ] and still had three bars out of four. But I had them charged to 54 volts. I have now charged them to 58.8 volts and its ready for another ride but that wont be till tonight due to work. I don't think I ever saw the display say I was using more that 10 amps, maybe something is limiting me, perhaps the bms in the battery back ?
Well, if you arent hammering the throttle, it usually doesn't go much beyond 10-15 amps. If you go full throttle on a high power level it will go higher but for a cruise I'm not surprised to see it hanging out in the 10 amp area. Thats a decent sized battery! I think you will be very happy with the range. I get 6 miles out of my 4 amp-hour pack while full throttle basically the entire time. I bought some 21700 cells from battery hookup and will be building a larger battery soon. 20 amp-hours or so.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 I was riding full throttle for the most part, couldn't help myself lol. But ya my battery idea came straight from you. Oh and I saw those tesla 21700's and I thought the same thing. Those are gone now glad you got some. I had my chance and I knew they are better than 18650's but time is short. For now I just want to ride there isn't a lot of time left in the summer. Not having to build a battery pack and bms. Let me know if you get a pack together for your bike and how that goes I'd be interested to find out from you how they work compared to 18650's.
Full throttle is tons of fun, so hard to resist haha. I think www.bigbattery.com has some in stock. Not trying to fuel your addiction but cant help but let you know lol. I will most certainly do a battery build video and will do a range comparison with my current battery and the new one.
0:09 WRONG!! Cheap bikes are MUCH better to convert into a powerful EBike, due to the steel frame. Therefore, the exact opposite of what you said is true. The more expensive the bike, the more weight savings...hance it cant handle the extra stress...such as aluminum and carbon fiber.....Steel > aluminum > Carbon Fiber
True! But cheaper bikes typically have poorer quality control and less robust components. I’m sure a cheaper bike would be fine but I would rather have a higher quality bike personally. Thanks for watching and commenting!!
One thing I'm concerned about is disc brakes. I see it come with brake levers but is that an e-brake? Mine is 1200 watt front, I haven't hooked it up yet, waiting for batteries but yes, from most videos I've seen, they top around 30mph. 30mph isn't too fast, I sprint up to 27mph, and can sustain 20mph on flat ground. I too live 4 miles away from work, I get there in about 15 or 16 minutes averaging 15 mph, planing to cut that in half with this. I may do a video response linking your video but great job.
In the title it says Live Dangerously, but right in the beginning he says don't slap a 1200w motor on a 100 dollar bike... Brotha, that's exactly what I did 😅😂
What width do I need for the wheel? I have two trek bikes. Former runner with back issues needing less impact excercise.Also how do you imtegrate the actual derailer gears from the bike? I'm looking to restart an excercise program and was curious about the range. I actually want to pedal easily at first straying s few miles then if needed use the electric part to return home should I have back issues. Great Video. Thank You :-)
The kit I bought (link in description) works fine with my 2" width tires. You should be able to get up to 25 pretty easily at full throttle. Especially if you're pedaling
Best is a subjective term. You have to balance quite a few crucial characteristics about the battery. For most people the biggest factor is cost. Second is capacity (Ah) and third is weight. If you dont mind spending the money, bigger is always better if you plan to use all of that extra range. If you have a 5 or 6 mile commute for work and thats your primary use, you may not need to spend extra money to purchase range you dont need. Weight is not that much of an issue but my 25Ah batter definitely throws the balance of my bike to the rear. A 20ah 48v battery like you mentioned should be a great all around battery that will give you a very good range. Thanks for watching!
Yea. I don't actually have the PAS sensor hooked up, but the PAS levels adjust top speed when using the throttle. Level 1 is about 10mph, 2 is 15, 3 is 20, 4 is 25, and 5 is about 30mph. Its now about 33 since I built the bigger battery 😀 thanks for watching!
Hi, thanks for posting this video, i just received my 48v 1500w kit. Excited since it seems like a decent kit/value for the price point. If I connect the PAS does that change the functionality of the selector limiting the throttle the way it does with yours? Or will the selector just govern both according to the five levels? Thanks
I dont know how connecting the PAS will affect things. My guess is that the throttle will operate exactly like mine does but when you pedal the motor will automatically assist at whatever your PAS power level is.
Hey just curious I’m very interested in buying the kit from Amazon but two question do you actually get the full 1200watts of power or is it limited and how far can you travel before you need to charge again ? Actually three question how much did it cost too the penny at your door delivered thank you so much in advance
I havent checked it with a separate multimeter but the readout does hit 30 amps which os slightly over 1200watts. Range is dependent on speed and battery size. Riding at 25-30mph with my 4 amp-hour battery I can travel 8 miles or so. If I ride slower, the range increases significantly.
Hey man if you would’ve had my 48v 20ah 30bms battery ypu could have gone way faster my 1200w kit from ebikeling goes 30mph you at 1500 should have come closer to 35-40
With my new battery that I built I go about 33mph, but I'm hitting the max rpm of the hub motor. If it could spin faster there is plenty of amperage available. I draw about 15 amps at max speed. Thanks for watching!
Have either of you found a way to increase speed? I just built the 1200w internal controller with a 48V 20ah and I was only able to hit 30 also. 26” wheels with continental touring tires. I only weigh 130lbs. In the bike stand with no resistance it will spin up to 35 though
@@LuisRidesABike I was thinking of upping the battery to 52v 30amp I’m almost due for a new battery so I’m also in the process of looking back into a bit more speed
I have a 500watt rear hub recently the motor blew and looking for front hub for many reason. I Ride with 2 batteries, 23ah and 11ah heavy. The 23ah is hook to the rear wheel cage. 11ah is on the frame in the middle. I almost killed myself yesterday in the rain. my front wheel at 15mph maybe less not sure, tire slide causing the bike to lose control. i was braking with the front brake lightly and turning it just locked up. The fall was painful and thanks to bystanders I managed. Now because of my setup and the weight my best bet is adding weight in the front. Would you recommend front hub help with balancing thanks?
Front hub motors are very hard on the forks (torque). I would only use one(if I had to) on a solid fork bike. I would try to move some of the weight forward or try changing your riding style to favor the rear brake first so that your front wheel won't want to lock up. If you could get the batteries more toward the front that would help a lot.
Does your wheel seem to have a lot of resistance when coasting? When I put mine in the stand the wheel will not spin very long without stopping. Also makes kind of a winding noise. I was wondering if they usually spin more free and make less noise.
@@samsonhinds7953 pay attention to how the original nuts and washers come off and follow the same order. If you do a front hub kit, make sire you use torque arms. Preferably on both sides of the forks. Most decent kits come with instructions to help you out. Ive never done a front wheel kit. Maybe someone else can chime in. Thanks for watching!
I dont know that there is necessarily a top speed setting, but you can just set the PAS to lower levels and the motor will only go a certain speed. For example, PAS 1 is 10mph on my bike. PAS 2 is 15, 3 is 20, 4 is 25, and 5 is 30.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 I was at 12 on 20 inch rear wheel on PAS 1 motor only I never installed the crank sensor yet it works and on 5 I am cruising at 37.5 MPH (converted from my KM reading. Yes I need help to get it to English units.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 well my first guess would be if I tried to attach a higher-powered battery to the kit, I stand to potentially fry something. The kit has specifications that list the maximum being a 500w battery.
Interesting. Typically, so long as you don’t exceed the voltage rating of the controller for the kit, you can put a big of a battery as you want on there. I could have made a 100ah battery for my kit and it would have operated just the same. The range would have been much farther though. Did you buy a 500w e bike kit? If so, what came with it? Mine had everything but the battery which is why I built one.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 I did. From ebikeling. Pretty much everything except the battery. My kit has some.... issues, but I'm actually not sure what causes it, or how to fix it. Normally the little control panel has settings that allow the wheel to read the speed. Don't remember the specifics, but I had to turn an option to 86 to get the console to read the hub speed.... however it only reads so long as the throttle is engaged. Disengage, and it stops reading speed. The other problem is the hub makes a horrible coil whine after awhile and the only way to solve that is to turn the bike off and let it coast a bit, before turning it back on. Apologies if none of that made any sense, but my work has left me with little sleep. Let me know and I'll try to clarify.
Hmm. How long have you had it? My kit worked out of the box without issue. It reads speed regardless of motor engagement and I don’t get any noises or resistance from the hub. I’m wondering if yours was damaged and isn’t working properly?
are you saying that you printed the adapter yourself? Or did you buy it and then put the spades and wires on it? Is there another way to wire this battery. I don't have a 3d printer.
I printed the adapter myself. However, one of my spade connectors broke from vibrations. I repaired it and haven't been using the adapter. I just push the spade connectors into the battery and I have put about 100 miles on it like that without issue.
You could just solder the wires to the spade connectors or jam the wires in between the spades on the battery and then glue gun them, one or both, as I did and it is working. I just glue gunned my wires in between the spades once I jammed them in there with a screwdriver, it works and ya you can do it too.
I'm a newbie too! Always learning new things. The current gives me a roundabout idea of the torque I'm placing on the dropouts of the bike. The more you twist the throttle, the more current the motor draws and the more torque it produces. So I use 10 amps as a good limit to reduce the wear and tear on the bike. Sometimes I go over that, it's fine but I just try not to make a habit out of it.
The PAS setting is typically what controls how much amperage the motor can draw. As you go up on the PAS setting, the motor pulls more amps and produces more torque.
I have put over 400 miles on mine with no PAS sensor. It will only run when you twist the throttle though. I dont mind riding it like that. It won't provide any automatic pedal assist without the PAS sensor installed. I think there is a sensor in the wheel that senses RPM's and calculates speed based off of that. Thanks for watching!
Mine does about the same. With a 52V battery it goes a little bit faster(31-32mph). Voltage is what determines the max speed of the motor. Adding amp-hours just increases the runtime.
400 miles and still going strong! However I usually only ride about 6 miles. This battery works for that but I have a build for a nicely sized battery in the works. It will be very well suited for longer distance rides. Thanks for watching!
I have 2,300 miles on my ebikling 1200 watt front hub motor. The kit has performed flawlessly and I love it.
How fast can you go?
I put a front wheel drive same as your set up . I'm well pleased with mine . Front wheel drive is more stable no wobble at 22mph because its pulling and No poping wheeleys . Great for the wife to . And front is easier installation
I did it I finished my 1200 watt rear hub bike and used the same idea you used . I'm using two 58 volt batteries in parallel instead of one. Saved hundreds of dollars just doing that alone. Mine is not waterproof and wasnt plug and play wiring either. I'm using the SW900 display and I dont see settings to do anything other than pas 1-5. It goes 28.0 mph tops. Don't know how to change it to mph instead of kph. Or change to rim size as I have read. Guess my display can't do that stuff. But that's okay the bike runs very well. I've got no complaints. Thanks to you for the wonderful idea of the battery choice. Works like a charm.
Awesome! How many amp-hours are the batteries? Are you getting decent range with it?
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 The batteries are 5.2 amps each for a total of 10.4. They are 58 volt max. I went 8.9 miles yesterday [first ride ] and still had three bars out of four. But I had them charged to 54 volts. I have now charged them to 58.8 volts and its ready for another ride but that wont be till tonight due to work. I don't think I ever saw the display say I was using more that 10 amps, maybe something is limiting me, perhaps the bms in the battery back ?
Well, if you arent hammering the throttle, it usually doesn't go much beyond 10-15 amps. If you go full throttle on a high power level it will go higher but for a cruise I'm not surprised to see it hanging out in the 10 amp area. Thats a decent sized battery! I think you will be very happy with the range. I get 6 miles out of my 4 amp-hour pack while full throttle basically the entire time. I bought some 21700 cells from battery hookup and will be building a larger battery soon. 20 amp-hours or so.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 I was riding full throttle for the most part, couldn't help myself lol. But ya my battery idea came straight from you. Oh and I saw those tesla 21700's and I thought the same thing. Those are gone now glad you got some. I had my chance and I knew they are better than 18650's but time is short. For now I just want to ride there isn't a lot of time left in the summer. Not having to build a battery pack and bms. Let me know if you get a pack together for your bike and how that goes I'd be interested to find out from you how they work compared to 18650's.
Full throttle is tons of fun, so hard to resist haha. I think www.bigbattery.com has some in stock. Not trying to fuel your addiction but cant help but let you know lol. I will most certainly do a battery build video and will do a range comparison with my current battery and the new one.
0:09 WRONG!! Cheap bikes are MUCH better to convert into a powerful EBike, due to the steel frame. Therefore, the exact opposite of what you said is true. The more expensive the bike, the more weight savings...hance it cant handle the extra stress...such as aluminum and carbon fiber.....Steel > aluminum > Carbon Fiber
True! But cheaper bikes typically have poorer quality control and less robust components. I’m sure a cheaper bike would be fine but I would rather have a higher quality bike personally. Thanks for watching and commenting!!
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 how do I know a torx arm fits my bike ?
They’re usually a generic shape designed to be universal. There could be bike specific ones out there but I haven’t ran into any yet.
Interesting
I am gonna convert my Trek 7100 to an e-bike. And that model has a sturdy (but heavy) steel frame on it too.
Sturdy is always better! Thanks for watching!
One thing I'm concerned about is disc brakes. I see it come with brake levers but is that an e-brake?
Mine is 1200 watt front, I haven't hooked it up yet, waiting for batteries but yes, from most videos I've seen, they top around 30mph. 30mph isn't too fast, I sprint up to 27mph, and can sustain 20mph on flat ground. I too live 4 miles away from work, I get there in about 15 or 16 minutes averaging 15 mph, planing to cut that in half with this. I may do a video response linking your video but great job.
In the title it says Live Dangerously, but right in the beginning he says don't slap a 1200w motor on a 100 dollar bike... Brotha, that's exactly what I did 😅😂
Thanks for posting
how many mile can yu get out
I put 2 hubs with 2 batteries, I hit 37.5
What width do I need for the wheel? I have two trek bikes. Former runner with back issues needing less impact excercise.Also how do you imtegrate the actual derailer gears from the bike? I'm looking to restart an excercise program and was curious about the range. I actually want to pedal easily at first straying s few miles then if needed use the electric part to return home should I have back issues. Great Video. Thank You :-)
The kit I bought (link in description) works fine with my 2" width tires. You should be able to get up to 25 pretty easily at full throttle. Especially if you're pedaling
One question please! What battery is the best for this kit? A 48v with 20ah will be ok?
Best is a subjective term. You have to balance quite a few crucial characteristics about the battery. For most people the biggest factor is cost. Second is capacity (Ah) and third is weight.
If you dont mind spending the money, bigger is always better if you plan to use all of that extra range. If you have a 5 or 6 mile commute for work and thats your primary use, you may not need to spend extra money to purchase range you dont need.
Weight is not that much of an issue but my 25Ah batter definitely throws the balance of my bike to the rear.
A 20ah 48v battery like you mentioned should be a great all around battery that will give you a very good range.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the this, have you tried changing the PAS settings?
Yea. I don't actually have the PAS sensor hooked up, but the PAS levels adjust top speed when using the throttle. Level 1 is about 10mph, 2 is 15, 3 is 20, 4 is 25, and 5 is about 30mph. Its now about 33 since I built the bigger battery 😀 thanks for watching!
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Thank you appreciate reply.
Hi, thanks for posting this video, i just received my 48v 1500w kit. Excited since it seems like a decent kit/value for the price point. If I connect the PAS does that change the functionality of the selector limiting the throttle the way it does with yours? Or will the selector just govern both according to the five levels? Thanks
I dont know how connecting the PAS will affect things. My guess is that the throttle will operate exactly like mine does but when you pedal the motor will automatically assist at whatever your PAS power level is.
What is the maximum voltage that my battery can have?
Hey just curious I’m very interested in buying the kit from Amazon but two question do you actually get the full 1200watts of power or is it limited and how far can you travel before you need to charge again ? Actually three question how much did it cost too the penny at your door delivered thank you so much in advance
I havent checked it with a separate multimeter but the readout does hit 30 amps which os slightly over 1200watts. Range is dependent on speed and battery size. Riding at 25-30mph with my 4 amp-hour battery I can travel 8 miles or so. If I ride slower, the range increases significantly.
Shipping was free through Amazon Prime.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 greatly appreciate your feedback it’s definitely noted when I make my purchase
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 ah ok that’s a blessing prime for the win
If you have any other questions in the future feel free to ask
Hey man if you would’ve had my 48v 20ah 30bms battery ypu could have gone way faster my 1200w kit from ebikeling goes 30mph you at 1500 should have come closer to 35-40
With my new battery that I built I go about 33mph, but I'm hitting the max rpm of the hub motor. If it could spin faster there is plenty of amperage available. I draw about 15 amps at max speed. Thanks for watching!
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 that’s cool man I’ve been wanted to try it but I’m not very technical lol glad it worked out for ya
Depending on the type of battery it can be very easy to build your own. Prismatic LiFePO4 cells spoil us battery builders!
Have either of you found a way to increase speed? I just built the 1200w internal controller with a 48V 20ah and I was only able to hit 30 also. 26” wheels with continental touring tires. I only weigh 130lbs. In the bike stand with no resistance it will spin up to 35 though
@@LuisRidesABike I was thinking of upping the battery to 52v 30amp I’m almost due for a new battery so I’m also in the process of looking back into a bit more speed
If running without the motor on does the wheel turn freely like a regular bike wheel?
Yes, it spins freely. I’ve noticed no binding at all. Thanks for watching
I have a 500watt rear hub recently the motor blew and looking for front hub for many reason. I Ride with 2 batteries, 23ah and 11ah heavy. The 23ah is hook to the rear wheel cage. 11ah is on the frame in the middle. I almost killed myself yesterday in the rain. my front wheel at 15mph maybe less not sure, tire slide causing the bike to lose control. i was braking with the front brake lightly and turning it just locked up. The fall was painful and thanks to bystanders I managed. Now because of my setup and the weight my best bet is adding weight in the front. Would you recommend front hub help with balancing thanks?
Front hub motors are very hard on the forks (torque). I would only use one(if I had to) on a solid fork bike. I would try to move some of the weight forward or try changing your riding style to favor the rear brake first so that your front wheel won't want to lock up. If you could get the batteries more toward the front that would help a lot.
Hi I have a question do I have to buy a battery with it or does it come with everything to build the bike
Hi! You will need a battery. The kit comes with everything else besides a battery. Thanks for watching!
Does your wheel seem to have a lot of resistance when coasting? When I put mine in the stand the wheel will not spin very long without stopping. Also makes kind of a winding noise. I was wondering if they usually spin more free and make less noise.
No, my wheel does not have resistance like that. I wonder if the motor housing is rubbing. The wheel should free spin very easily.
Do you have a geared or a direct-drive motor? Geared kits should have no resistance when the motor is off, while DD kits will have some.
Mine is direct drive but I’m pretty sure it has a clutch to disengage the motor and allow easier free spinning. I could be wrong though.
Hi how do I know the order of washers and nuts and bolts?
Do you mean for the entire kit overall?
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 for like the front hub whenever I put the wheel on
@@samsonhinds7953 pay attention to how the original nuts and washers come off and follow the same order. If you do a front hub kit, make sire you use torque arms. Preferably on both sides of the forks. Most decent kits come with instructions to help you out. Ive never done a front wheel kit. Maybe someone else can chime in.
Thanks for watching!
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 ok thank u and yes I am planning to use torque arms on both sides
It should work fine then. What wattage motor are you using? Sorry I couldn't be more helpful!
How do you install?
I'm putting this on a fold-able 20" bicycle. Wish me GOOD LUCK !
Is there a way to set the top speed limit? So I don't break and crash my bike?
Good luck! Its an overall easy swap. Have fun out there. Thanks for watching!
I dont know that there is necessarily a top speed setting, but you can just set the PAS to lower levels and the motor will only go a certain speed. For example, PAS 1 is 10mph on my bike. PAS 2 is 15, 3 is 20, 4 is 25, and 5 is 30.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 I was at 12 on 20 inch rear wheel on PAS 1 motor only I never installed the crank sensor yet it works and on 5 I am cruising at 37.5 MPH (converted from my KM reading. Yes I need help to get it to English units.
Multiply your KM reading by .625 to get MPH.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 I'm fast with calculations in my head but not while I am doing 60kmph
The most I have is a 500w battery so I couldn't use this. Any good recommends for a kit that'd fit my specifications? 36v 500w battery. 20ah
Why is your battery limited to 500w? Is it an amperage limit that makes you say that? Trying to better understand your setup.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 well my first guess would be if I tried to attach a higher-powered battery to the kit, I stand to potentially fry something. The kit has specifications that list the maximum being a 500w battery.
Interesting. Typically, so long as you don’t exceed the voltage rating of the controller for the kit, you can put a big of a battery as you want on there. I could have made a 100ah battery for my kit and it would have operated just the same. The range would have been much farther though. Did you buy a 500w e bike kit? If so, what came with it? Mine had everything but the battery which is why I built one.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 I did. From ebikeling. Pretty much everything except the battery. My kit has some.... issues, but I'm actually not sure what causes it, or how to fix it. Normally the little control panel has settings that allow the wheel to read the speed. Don't remember the specifics, but I had to turn an option to 86 to get the console to read the hub speed.... however it only reads so long as the throttle is engaged. Disengage, and it stops reading speed.
The other problem is the hub makes a horrible coil whine after awhile and the only way to solve that is to turn the bike off and let it coast a bit, before turning it back on.
Apologies if none of that made any sense, but my work has left me with little sleep. Let me know and I'll try to clarify.
Hmm. How long have you had it? My kit worked out of the box without issue. It reads speed regardless of motor engagement and I don’t get any noises or resistance from the hub. I’m wondering if yours was damaged and isn’t working properly?
are you saying that you printed the adapter yourself? Or did you buy it and then put the spades and wires on it? Is there another way to wire this battery. I don't have a 3d printer.
I printed the adapter myself. However, one of my spade connectors broke from vibrations. I repaired it and haven't been using the adapter. I just push the spade connectors into the battery and I have put about 100 miles on it like that without issue.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Thanks.
You could just solder the wires to the spade connectors or jam the wires in between the spades on the battery and then glue gun them, one or both, as I did and it is working. I just glue gunned my wires in between the spades once I jammed them in there with a screwdriver, it works and ya you can do it too.
So what does the current tell you? Sorry a newbie here😊
I'm a newbie too! Always learning new things. The current gives me a roundabout idea of the torque I'm placing on the dropouts of the bike. The more you twist the throttle, the more current the motor draws and the more torque it produces. So I use 10 amps as a good limit to reduce the wear and tear on the bike. Sometimes I go over that, it's fine but I just try not to make a habit out of it.
The PAS setting is typically what controls how much amperage the motor can draw. As you go up on the PAS setting, the motor pulls more amps and produces more torque.
Will the motor cut on without pas sensor? How does it sense speed?
I have put over 400 miles on mine with no PAS sensor. It will only run when you twist the throttle though. I dont mind riding it like that. It won't provide any automatic pedal assist without the PAS sensor installed. I think there is a sensor in the wheel that senses RPM's and calculates speed based off of that. Thanks for watching!
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 will it work with a 48v 20ah xt60 bsttery?
I dont see why not. I have a 48v 25ah battery on mine with an xt60 right now. Xt60's are rated for 30 amps continuous.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 how fast does your bike go with the 25ah? Mines hits 28-30 with a 20ah battery.
Mine does about the same. With a 52V battery it goes a little bit faster(31-32mph). Voltage is what determines the max speed of the motor. Adding amp-hours just increases the runtime.
"We dont need safety" 🤣
That battery isn't up to the job get yourself a proper lithium ion 52 volt 16/17 amp battery
400 miles and still going strong! However I usually only ride about 6 miles. This battery works for that but I have a build for a nicely sized battery in the works. It will be very well suited for longer distance rides. Thanks for watching!
2:10 69 miles noiiice
They sold me a faulty motor kit and refused to replace it! CROOKS!
No way! What was wrong with it? Did you buy through Amazon?
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 Ebay it never worked since moment I received it and connected it! I contacted them and just kept me dicking around!
Dang.... That sucks. Sorry you had a bad experience.
@@diyrenewableenergyelectron4996 it's ok! What goes around comes around!