Just a suggestion: start by applying a mask of paper (label stock, tape, contact paper) over the wood. Engrave the design. Apply sealer to inhibit bleed. Apply the epoxy/paint and remove the excess. Then remove the paper mask. The mask will greatly reduce the sanding.
Is this something you’ve tried before? The epoxy would make it very difficult to get the masking off once cured. It would not pull off clean. If you’ve actually had success with this method then maybe I’m wrong but I would highly suggest not trying that.
@@KendrasGotWood this is why you apply mineral oil > laser engrave > mask >expoy >peel . Mineral oil will make it difficult if not impossible for the epoxy to adhere to the board. If it does, you can just sand it off. Reduces the sanding and gunking up of sandpaper by 90% reduces time spent actually sanding, and it is far more economical lol.
It’s still going to be difficult to peel off the masking in all of the tiny little spots where it’s stuck. If that works for you, great but I don’t mind the sanding. I do however, hate peeling off masking with or without it being covered in epoxy.
@@KendrasGotWood I hate weeding masks too, but something that works for me is to use duct tape to peel the mask all at once. I'm not suggesting you change a method that works for you, but if you have to mask anything in the future, it might be helpful.
Yeah it’s a bummer for sure. I find it depends on the wood, pigments and color of pigments but the epoxy seal is the one way to guarantee it won’t bleed.
Looks great Kendra Your process worked for sure but you must admit it was tougher than it needed to be. if you want more fade in your project then try giving the syringes a try. You mentioned it and for the price of cheep ones I believe your sanding time and actual fade result will make it well worth it and If you don't like them then go back to your original plan. Either way your project turned out and that's really all that matters!
Thanks, I’ve tried using them before and that method is just not for me! I’ve used a few various methods and ultimately the end result works best if I do the way I showed, but of course if you prefer that method I understand. Thanks for watching!
Making a 16" round table with a complex design covering the whole thing. It took 3 hours to engrave a light pattern at high speed. I'm now carving the design by hand to make it about 1/8" deep for the epoxy. In order to avoid color bleed, go over it with plain clear epoxy with a paint brush in the design and around the edges. Then let it fully cure. It will be sanded down later after the rest of the colored epoxy has cured. A tip I picked up from a video from a guy who makes $5k plus custom tables professionally. So she is definitely doing it right.
To eliminate the bleeding suggest spraying a light coat of clear lacquer before you laser. This prevents any follow on bleeding around the edges. It also will eliminate your step of doing the clear epoxy fill step.
Hey thanks. Not sure if you noticed when you came to the comments but you’re not the first to comment this. At this point I won’t repeat why I don’t use lacquer but if it works for you, great!
Hey good stuff and thanks for the video! I've also been making a few epoxy projects and instead of using epoxy to protect the wood, I use shellac. You might want to try if you want to save some time. Less than 10 minutes later and it's ready for your colored pour.
Thanks. Not sure if you saw but about 20 other people mentioned this. 😂 I really regret not mentioning it more in the video. I don’t always use epoxy but I find it to be the only one true fail safe. Especially with cherry and dark liquid pigments.
I thought I mentioned it in the video, but in my experience it doesn’t always work, but I feel like it also depends on the wood and the pigments. The epoxy seal is the only thing I find prevents it 100% of the time. Cherry especially, like I’m using in the video, I find likes to suck up the dark colors so I’d just rather be safe than sorry. If I’m using Walnut I’ll just spray it. Or if I using lighter pigments too.
That was a great video! I will be starting to make cutting boards for an order and was looking to add color to the boards. This will be perfect! Thank you very much for all the great information!
Great video👍Just took an engraving job for an Air B&B cabin sign, and need to fill a lake map engraving with epoxy. Nice to see the process before I jump in. Lol Thanks for sharing some great info, and nice work👍 You got my sub😁
@@KendrasGotWood I've been trying to tell him that. I think it's because he's not seeing a big turn around in our area with things I do. I'm trying to mix things I do with other media and go next level.
Cherry is my favorite Wood to burn with so far- nice choice! Walnut is my least favorite, but not because it looks bad- it looks really good! But good lord it stinks like nothing else and the smell lingers for a while. That's with a proper enclosure/extraction system too- it completely eliminates smoke and most of the time I like the smell of most Woods and it gets rid of those smells really well, but NOT Walnut- it actually makes me nauseous sometimes- if you've ever chewed up a Xanax, it's kinda like that in smell-form (Xanax has an absolutely terrible taste). I figured a 100 watt CO2 laser would be faster than that. So far I've only got experience with Diode Lasers, I've got a 10 and a 20 watt and I really love them! I do more cutting than engraving and from what I've learned diodes are really great for cutting- they match CO2 lasers at the higher end (30+ watt) so they fit my needs. I do really wish I could cut through clear acrylic though so I could make windows for my miniatures without using a saw but that's down the road once I start making Money with the Lasers- the CO2 needs to pay for itself, which I plan to completely custom build so I can have a large bed/Z-Axis without having to sacrifice to the Gods :P If you're interested in seeing what I make 'ChaosFabs' with the other web address stuff (YT doesn't like links)- I design/produce everything myself so everything is original. I only have the things I offer on the site but I do much more than just Miniatures and those things will be on there soon. Take care and thanks for the Tutorial, I'm doing a lot of experimenting all the time and epoxy is the next thing I want to start messing around with.
Excellent video thanks. Do you know if you can do this with a cutting board, as you have to wash the board etc? Would the Resin still stick to the board, after a dishwasher etc. be interesting to find out? Thanks for a great video
I don’t recommend cutting on epoxy ever. Some brands claim to be food safe, but I would not cut on it, as the particals can get into the food. Plus, you’d be scratching up the epoxy. You also should not put a wooden cutting board in the dishwasher even without epoxy. Thanks for watching!
You can thin that epoxy with denatured alcohol...up to 50/50. Easier to brush on, seals well, soaks into the wood a bit, you could tip the item to drain off any excess. The denatured alcohol would make the epoxy 'flash' (cure) faster as well.
Your video was super helpful, thank you! I'm new to using lasers and like to epoxy resin fill charcuterie boards so food particles don't get stuck. I had air bubbles that caused pitting in the epoxy (I did not know to seal before applying the color resin), the areas that were the worst were the thin lines - is there a guideline for line thickness to avoid this in the future, or will sealing it solve the problem entirely?
Sealing does help, but always won’t solve completely. I do have issues with micro bubbles here and there too and it sucks when it happens. Some things I do to try to prevent is put the epoxy in a warm bath prior. - Put the jug of epoxy, not the hardener in warm water. This de-gasses the resin, but it will start to cure faster if it’s warm, so you don’t have as much working time. I also find giving the area a light spritz with alcohol helps prevent bubbles a bit.
Thanks for the great tutorial! Why do we need to sand the char off before adding the epoxy if we will be sanding after? Seems like that would get rid of some of the depth we are trying to preserve.
Thanks! I don’t feel like it really removes much, if any depth personally. I have never tried it without removing it first but either way it needs to come off.
In my experience it doesn’t always work, but I feel like it also depends on the wood and your pigments. The epoxy seal is the only thing I find prevents it 100% of the time. But Cherry especially, I find likes to suck up the dark colors so I’d just rather be safe than sorry.
I wouldn’t suggest plywood as you won’t be able to sand off any excess without sanding off layers of ply. I would really only suggest doing this method with hardwoods.
I do not create cutting boards with epoxy, serving/ charcuterie boards only. I would definitely never cut on epoxy and I always make sure to tell my customers that as well.
Nice video. Great ideas. I would like to suggest that people understand that not all epoxy, in fact most, unless it is a deep pour are measured by volume, not by weight. Makes a huge difference. Please check the directions on your epoxy. Hope that helps.
One of the things I love about MAS Epoxies resin, featured in this video is their online resin calculators, so you know no matter which system, or how you choose to measure it, it will be correct if followed properly. I agree though to make sure to follow the instructions on what you’re using. I believe any mistakes people make with epoxy are typically because they didn’t follow the directions.
The HL 1060 100w. It’s the only laser I’ve ever used so I don’t really have anything to compare it to. It’s definitely not plug and play but getting it running wasn’t as difficult as I expected. I had a friend walk me through some stuff though.
I see a lot of people use Shellac but in my experience it doesn't always work. I do find the wood types and pigments to be a factor as well, and with cherry wood and dark liquid pigments like I am using here, I don't like to risk it, so epoxy is the safest way to go. I have learned after many of these, that the seal coat really helps better my results overall. It is course a matter of personal preference though.
Hi Kendra! Good vid. Question: I’m engraving something that I want filled but also to cover the whole board. It’s a top to a stand and only using clear. Do you sand after the seal coat? I may have missed if you did, but I know you sanded after the main coat, just curious. Like yours I have some detail that I want to preserve.
Have you tried powder pigments such as mica powders instead of liquid pigments yet? These generally tend to be much less prone to bleeding into woods, often having zero bleed.
Yes. I thought I mentioned that in the video but I don’t remember now. I find even they can bleed into the certain wood. I usually just prefer the look of Mixol as well, since almost all mica powders have a shimmer.
@@KendrasGotWood Cant remember hearing you mention it, if you did then apologies. Yeah, personally love the shimmer but it’s not for everyone. Just looked at the Mixol, expensive but seems to have good reviews
Some people recommend it, in my opinion it also depends on the wood you’re using as well as the pigments. In my case the epoxy is the one true fail safe with darker colors that are prone to bleeding, like the green I used here and cherry wood really likes to suck it up.
I found the video great! I want to engrave a bible verse on wood and if the burnt look looks good, what happens if you just apply the finish over the letters? What is your experience with that? The finish is clear, no color
Thanks for the tips on my tutorial. Feel free to check out the other comments though. I’ll stick to my ways but I get it if you want to stick to yours.
Yeah I don’t know if you saw the other comments but I’ve been given multiple suggestions at this point. I wish I’d mentioned in the video why I choose epoxy over other things but it’s too late now. 😂 Personally I find the resin layer is the only true fail safe but other things work fine depending on the wood and pigments used. Again this is just my personal experience. With cherry specifically and the dark green pigments I didn’t want to risk it and I’d rather teach something the way I know always works than use something else and have that method fail for someone.
Thanks but I’m not sure if you noticed you’re not the first person to suggest this. Feel free to check out my responses as to why I choose epoxy instead.
Apologies! It seems okay on my end. It could be a technical issue you are having? Unless you’re referring to the difference between me talking while recording VS the voiceover portions. In which case I’m definitely no professional when it comes to this. Just here to do my best and hopefully help others learn!
Wrong you say? The final result came out really nice. Explain what you mean. I didn't see her show us anything wrong. I've never done it and I learned some really good information here.
![Hunxho - Ball Forever [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nki9ZTF9Uls/mqdefault.jpg)
Just a suggestion: start by applying a mask of paper (label stock, tape, contact paper) over the wood. Engrave the design. Apply sealer to inhibit bleed. Apply the epoxy/paint and remove the excess. Then remove the paper mask. The mask will greatly reduce the sanding.
Is this something you’ve tried before? The epoxy would make it very difficult to get the masking off once cured. It would not pull off clean. If you’ve actually had success with this method then maybe I’m wrong but I would highly suggest not trying that.
@@KendrasGotWood this is why you apply mineral oil > laser engrave > mask >expoy >peel . Mineral oil will make it difficult if not impossible for the epoxy to adhere to the board. If it does, you can just sand it off. Reduces the sanding and gunking up of sandpaper by 90% reduces time spent actually sanding, and it is far more economical lol.
It’s still going to be difficult to peel off the masking in all of the tiny little spots where it’s stuck. If that works for you, great but I don’t mind the sanding. I do however, hate peeling off masking with or without it being covered in epoxy.
@@KendrasGotWood I hate weeding masks too, but something that works for me is to use duct tape to peel the mask all at once. I'm not suggesting you change a method that works for you, but if you have to mask anything in the future, it might be helpful.
yes and I've used spray shellac by Kinser which totally prevents the epoxy from bleeding and it's dries quick. 2 light coats does it
I was gonna 'wing' it. Glad I stopped by and saw this. I would have cried if I had all that bleed and couldn't get it out. Much appreciation.
Yeah it’s a bummer for sure. I find it depends on the wood, pigments and color of pigments but the epoxy seal is the one way to guarantee it won’t bleed.
Looks great Kendra
Your process worked for sure but you must admit it was tougher than it needed to be. if you want more fade in your project then try giving the syringes a try. You mentioned it and for the price of cheep ones I believe your sanding time and actual fade result will make it well worth it and If you don't like them then go back to your original plan. Either way your project turned out and that's really all that matters!
Thanks, I’ve tried using them before and that method is just not for me! I’ve used a few various methods and ultimately the end result works best if I do the way I showed, but of course if you prefer that method I understand. Thanks for watching!
@@KendrasGotWood The most important thing is we are all enjoying the hobby and always learning from others yet having fun as we try new methods!
That looks stunning. You went with right colour combo 💯. Glad you took out that yellow and white. Good job
Thanks!
Great job….keep posting, the followers, likes and all that will come. You will get there!
Fantastic job Kendra. I never thought to use colored epoxy as a filler in a laser engraving. That opens a lot of possibilities.
Thanks so much!
Great information! I'm going to try this.I always appreciate your videos. Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge. ❤
Making a 16" round table with a complex design covering the whole thing. It took 3 hours to engrave a light pattern at high speed. I'm now carving the design by hand to make it about 1/8" deep for the epoxy. In order to avoid color bleed, go over it with plain clear epoxy with a paint brush in the design and around the edges. Then let it fully cure. It will be sanded down later after the rest of the colored epoxy has cured. A tip I picked up from a video from a guy who makes $5k plus custom tables professionally. So she is definitely doing it right.
Thank you! You definitely don’t want to cut corners and risk it when you put in that much work prior.
To eliminate the bleeding suggest spraying a light coat of clear lacquer before you laser. This prevents any follow on bleeding around the edges. It also will eliminate your step of doing the clear epoxy fill step.
Sounds like it will eliminate the first sanding as well.🤷🏻♂
Hey thanks. Not sure if you noticed when you came to the comments but you’re not the first to comment this. At this point I won’t repeat why I don’t use lacquer but if it works for you, great!
Feel free to follow your own methods!
Hey good stuff and thanks for the video! I've also been making a few epoxy projects and instead of using epoxy to protect the wood, I use shellac. You might want to try if you want to save some time. Less than 10 minutes later and it's ready for your colored pour.
Thanks. Not sure if you saw but about 20 other people mentioned this. 😂 I really regret not mentioning it more in the video. I don’t always use epoxy but I find it to be the only one true fail safe. Especially with cherry and dark liquid pigments.
Awesome awesome video! I never thought of pretreating with epoxy to keep it from bleeding through. Great idea! Thanks so much
Thank you! Glad you found it helpful!
@@KendrasGotWood have you ever used polyurethane over this epoxy? I plan on making a stove cover and would like to finish it with poly
I haven’t. I’m sure it would be fine though. Might yellow it though, if it’s lighter colors.
Don't know if it's been said but you can use other products to seal your wood. Poly , sanding sealer are a couple I've use that prevent bleeding.
I thought I mentioned it in the video, but in my experience it doesn’t always work, but I feel like it also depends on the wood and the pigments. The epoxy seal is the only thing I find prevents it 100% of the time. Cherry especially, like I’m using in the video, I find likes to suck up the dark colors so I’d just rather be safe than sorry. If I’m using Walnut I’ll just spray it. Or if I using lighter pigments too.
I spray a coat of laquer on my designs before the epoxy. Stops bleeding and dries in a few minutes. Also sanding sealer works too.
Hey thanks, you must’ve missed the 25 other comments saying this though. 😂
@@KendrasGotWood 🤣🤣
That was a great video! I will be starting to make cutting boards for an order and was looking to add color to the boards.
This will be perfect!
Thank you very much for all the great information!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video, Kendra - I may give this a try.
Thanks for watching! You definitely should!
Excellent tutorial, Kendra!
Thank you, I am glad you found it helpful!
Great tutorial! I’ve been wanting to add epoxy to my woodworking. Can’t wait to try this!
How did it turn out with epoxi in your woodworking projects.
Hope you had a nice summet 😎
Great video👍Just took an engraving job for an Air B&B cabin sign, and need to fill a lake map engraving with epoxy. Nice to see the process before I jump in. Lol Thanks for sharing some great info, and nice work👍 You got my sub😁
Thank you so much!
Beautiful work. I work with epoxy and I really want a laser. This will help me show my husband why I NEED a laser. Lol!!
Thank you! This is one of the biggest reasons I wanted a laser actually. They open up so many possibilities, it’ll pay for itself quick.
@@KendrasGotWood I've been trying to tell him that. I think it's because he's not seeing a big turn around in our area with things I do. I'm trying to mix things I do with other media and go next level.
It turned out nice.
Cherry is my favorite Wood to burn with so far- nice choice! Walnut is my least favorite, but not because it looks bad- it looks really good! But good lord it stinks like nothing else and the smell lingers for a while. That's with a proper enclosure/extraction system too- it completely eliminates smoke and most of the time I like the smell of most Woods and it gets rid of those smells really well, but NOT Walnut- it actually makes me nauseous sometimes- if you've ever chewed up a Xanax, it's kinda like that in smell-form (Xanax has an absolutely terrible taste).
I figured a 100 watt CO2 laser would be faster than that. So far I've only got experience with Diode Lasers, I've got a 10 and a 20 watt and I really love them! I do more cutting than engraving and from what I've learned diodes are really great for cutting- they match CO2 lasers at the higher end (30+ watt) so they fit my needs. I do really wish I could cut through clear acrylic though so I could make windows for my miniatures without using a saw but that's down the road once I start making Money with the Lasers- the CO2 needs to pay for itself, which I plan to completely custom build so I can have a large bed/Z-Axis without having to sacrifice to the Gods :P
If you're interested in seeing what I make 'ChaosFabs' with the other web address stuff (YT doesn't like links)- I design/produce everything myself so everything is original. I only have the things I offer on the site but I do much more than just Miniatures and those things will be on there soon. Take care and thanks for the Tutorial, I'm doing a lot of experimenting all the time and epoxy is the next thing I want to start messing around with.
Excellent video thanks. Do you know if you can do this with a cutting board, as you have to wash the board etc? Would the Resin still stick to the board, after a dishwasher etc. be interesting to find out? Thanks for a great video
I don’t recommend cutting on epoxy ever. Some brands claim to be food safe, but I would not cut on it, as the particals can get into the food. Plus, you’d be scratching up the epoxy. You also should not put a wooden cutting board in the dishwasher even without epoxy.
Thanks for watching!
Great video, nice result... well done!
Thank you!
You can thin that epoxy with denatured alcohol...up to 50/50. Easier to brush on, seals well, soaks into the wood a bit, you could tip the item to drain off any excess. The denatured alcohol would make the epoxy 'flash' (cure) faster as well.
Thanks. Unnecessary in my opinion but you do you!
Awesome video!!!
Awesome video! Great tips.
Thank you!
Wow, I cannot believe how rude some people are to you Kendra! I thought the video was great - keep up the good work!
Hahah right. RUclips is such a kind place. 😂 Thank you!!
Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching. 😊
Your video was super helpful, thank you! I'm new to using lasers and like to epoxy resin fill charcuterie boards so food particles don't get stuck. I had air bubbles that caused pitting in the epoxy (I did not know to seal before applying the color resin), the areas that were the worst were the thin lines - is there a guideline for line thickness to avoid this in the future, or will sealing it solve the problem entirely?
Sealing does help, but always won’t solve completely. I do have issues with micro bubbles here and there too and it sucks when it happens. Some things I do to try to prevent is put the epoxy in a warm bath prior. - Put the jug of epoxy, not the hardener in warm water. This de-gasses the resin, but it will start to cure faster if it’s warm, so you don’t have as much working time. I also find giving the area a light spritz with alcohol helps prevent bubbles a bit.
Thanks for the great tutorial! Why do we need to sand the char off before adding the epoxy if we will be sanding after? Seems like that would get rid of some of the depth we are trying to preserve.
Thanks! I don’t feel like it really removes much, if any depth personally. I have never tried it without removing it first but either way it needs to come off.
Nice, could you not use a clear, spray lacquer to seal the wood before you pour?
In my experience it doesn’t always work, but I feel like it also depends on the wood and your pigments. The epoxy seal is the only thing I find prevents it 100% of the time. But Cherry especially, I find likes to suck up the dark colors so I’d just rather be safe than sorry.
Have you tried white vinegar to clean the char off. Works great.
I have not. Sanding is pretty quick for me though, I don’t mind it really. I know most people don’t agree. 😆
Have you ever tried this on birch plywood? I am wondering if the clear will do a good enough job for it to not bleed?
I wouldn’t suggest plywood as you won’t be able to sand off any excess without sanding off layers of ply. I would really only suggest doing this method with hardwoods.
I notice you first showed a cutting board. Will there be an issue hitting the epoxy with a knife? Will it get into the food?
I do not create cutting boards with epoxy, serving/ charcuterie boards only. I would definitely never cut on epoxy and I always make sure to tell my customers that as well.
Nice video. Great ideas. I would like to suggest that people understand that not all epoxy, in fact most, unless it is a deep pour are measured by volume, not by weight. Makes a huge difference. Please check the directions on your epoxy. Hope that helps.
One of the things I love about MAS Epoxies resin, featured in this video is their online resin calculators, so you know no matter which system, or how you choose to measure it, it will be correct if followed properly. I agree though to make sure to follow the instructions on what you’re using. I believe any mistakes people make with epoxy are typically because they didn’t follow the directions.
Such a great tutorial thank you.
Thank you!
Beautiful
What kind of laser do you use? Do you recommend it for a newbie? Thanks for the video.
The HL 1060 100w. It’s the only laser I’ve ever used so I don’t really have anything to compare it to. It’s definitely not plug and play but getting it running wasn’t as difficult as I expected. I had a friend walk me through some stuff though.
Great video and tips
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
Shellac seals the wood and dries in a few minutes. Time saver
I see a lot of people use Shellac but in my experience it doesn't always work. I do find the wood types and pigments to be a factor as well, and with cherry wood and dark liquid pigments like I am using here, I don't like to risk it, so epoxy is the safest way to go. I have learned after many of these, that the seal coat really helps better my results overall. It is course a matter of personal preference though.
Hi Kendra! Good vid. Question: I’m engraving something that I want filled but also to cover the whole board. It’s a top to a stand and only using clear. Do you sand after the seal coat? I may have missed if you did, but I know you sanded after the main coat, just curious. Like yours I have some detail that I want to preserve.
I don’t personally sand after doing a top coat of epoxy.
Have you tried powder pigments such as mica powders instead of liquid pigments yet? These generally tend to be much less prone to bleeding into woods, often having zero bleed.
Yes. I thought I mentioned that in the video but I don’t remember now. I find even they can bleed into the certain wood. I usually just prefer the look of Mixol as well, since almost all mica powders have a shimmer.
@@KendrasGotWood Cant remember hearing you mention it, if you did then apologies. Yeah, personally love the shimmer but it’s not for everyone. Just looked at the Mixol, expensive but seems to have good reviews
Yeah it is pricey. A little goes a long way though. Plus you can mix it in paint/ stain. All kinds of stuff.
Hi Kendra! Can Mica Powder be mixed into this resin to add color? Thanks for the video.
Yes! Any type of pigment works fine.
@@KendrasGotWood Thanks!
Wonder if sanding sealer could be used to stop the bleeding?
Some people recommend it, in my opinion it also depends on the wood you’re using as well as the pigments. In my case the epoxy is the one true fail safe with darker colors that are prone to bleeding, like the green I used here and cherry wood really likes to suck it up.
Hello, great video and very useful. How deep are you going?
Hi Kendra! What type Laser machine do you use?
The HL 1060 100w blue and white
I found the video great! I want to engrave a bible verse on wood and if the burnt look looks good, what happens if you just apply the finish over the letters? What is your experience with that? The finish is clear, no color
Thank you! I haven’t tried it but I’m sure it would look great!
Every increase of 10 deg F halves your cure time. I put my parts in a cardboard box with a 100w lamp and it cures really quickly.
Patience is a virtue. 😉😂 I am not trying to force anything but you do you.
@@KendrasGotWood patience is a virtue, just not one of mine 😜.
This video os fantastic!
Thank you!! ❤️
Im going to be making something similar. Does anyone have a good suggestion for what would be "deep enough"? Thanks in advance
Are you using lightburn ?
Yes
good job! claps on
what a pain... im glad i watched because i want to try this.. and now i know a whole bunch of things to not do. :)
Best of luck to you.
What a sad little 🥔 you are
If you use shellac as you base including inside you designs and let it cure you will not get bleeding on you color fill epoxy
Thanks for the tips on my tutorial. Feel free to check out the other comments though. I’ll stick to my ways but I get it if you want to stick to yours.
What laser cutter do you use?
The HL 1060 100w blue and white
Is that epoxy food safe?
No epoxy is really food safe. I definitely don’t recommend cutting on it.
You should try using some Minwax Sanding Sealer, it dries much faster and should help eliminate bleed. It works well for dies on wood.
Yeah I don’t know if you saw the other comments but I’ve been given multiple suggestions at this point. I wish I’d mentioned in the video why I choose epoxy over other things but it’s too late now. 😂 Personally I find the resin layer is the only true fail safe but other things work fine depending on the wood and pigments used. Again this is just my personal experience. With cherry specifically and the dark green pigments I didn’t want to risk it and I’d rather teach something the way I know always works than use something else and have that method fail for someone.
❤
good
This was a perfect tutorial. I tried it before and after watching your video I now know I didn’t engrave deep enough. Thanks!
Thank you! I am glad it helped!
Try a coat of shellac instead of the epoxy for your base coat
Thanks but I’m not sure if you noticed you’re not the first person to suggest this. Feel free to check out my responses as to why I choose epoxy instead.
Nice video, but we need to get you an air assist. That wood is scorched ...
I have air assist, it’s because I ran it so it would be deep enough for the epoxy fill.
Awesome, How deep is deep enough.
Generally I just under 1/8” so I think.
What are your favorite hard, non grainy woods?!
I like to use walnut and maple personally. I’m using cherry here and that’s good too but usually walnut is my favorite.
I wood hire you (meant to be punny…not gross😅)
Show
Show what?!
@@KendrasGotWood project
I am not sure I understand
Your audio goes up and down for some reason.
Apologies! It seems okay on my end. It could be a technical issue you are having? Unless you’re referring to the difference between me talking while recording VS the voiceover portions. In which case I’m definitely no professional when it comes to this. Just here to do my best and hopefully help others learn!
@@KendrasGotWood Yes, it's voiceover vs. live portions of the audio that vary a fair bit.
Sorry. 🤷🏻♀️ Never claimed to be a professional videographer. Thanks for the feedback though. 😂
Showing people how to do something wrong while telling us a better way really…is not what you wood want ta do…
I am not sure what you mean? How am I showing how to do something wrong?
Wrong you say? The final result came out really nice. Explain what you mean. I didn't see her show us anything wrong. I've never done it and I learned some really good information here.
Whayt
holy vocal fry
Holy rude. Feel free to see yourself out. I’m so sorry my voice didn’t meet your standards for the free educational content I’m offering.
Why do you talk with that false scratchy voice?
Why do you bother to comment something so rude an unnecessary?
Thanx for sharing Kendra. 👌👍
Thanks for watching!
Hello, great video and very useful. How deep are you going?