PRUSA i3 MK3S+ 3D Printer, is it worth $750? Compare with Creality Ender 3 and other budget printers
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- In this video, I will take a closer look at its hardware, do some test prints to see how it prints right out of the box, and talk about what I like and what can be improved on this printer.
The first thing I noticed when I opened the box was that it came with many brand name parts, including a Delta PSU, an Einsy Rambo motherboard, Misumi bearings, Bondtech gear, TMC2130 stepper drivers, and a genuine E3D hotend.
You may ask even if it came with some brand name parts, is it worth $750?
Let’s find out how much it would cost if buying an Ender 3, and add the price of all these brand name parts and see what number we finally come up with. Creality has recently lowered the price of the Ender-3 from $179 to $155. So, we will start with $155 to get a very basic 3D printer without any brand name parts...
If we buy all these parts, it will cost us $478. If you add the price of a basic Ender-3, it will cost around $633. Since the retail price of the Prus MK3S+ is $750, you’re paying $120 more for the Prusa brand, the Prusa slicer that’s made for the Prusa printer, and other convenient features that I will talk about later...
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Used Ender-3 ($79)
Maybe in bad condition, but if you know how to fix a 3D printer and have spare parts to replace by yourself, that could be an amazing deal:
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Creality Ender-3 Pro:
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Creality Ender-3 V2:
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Creality Ender-3 S1:
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You’re doing Such a good job it’s unbelievable that you’re so young. Very informative and just so enjoyable to watch. You’re one of my favourite 3-D printing channels.
Thank you so much for your support! I'm glad this could help.
Yeah I wonder how old she is - she is waaayyyyyy professional than any kid this age I've ever seen. Too professional. And that's of course, in a great way!
She's 32
@@herbie747 wow she's got so much ahead of her.
Good for her!
@@divinginthedeep She's not a kid lmao
Aurora, you are inspiring! I am a 50+ year old lady (normally intimidated by technical stuff)...But you broke it down for me in such a simple and clear way that I felt excited to purchase my first 3D printer (Prusa i3 MK3S). Thank you!
Do not forget, Josef Prusa started out as a DJ that wanted more knobs. He assembled himself a RepRap Mendel, and he simplyfied it, creating the Prusa Simplified Mendel. He eventually started making his own, making the Prusa i3. It is the most used style of 3D printer now. Also, his company is the fastest growing amongst Europe :-)
Yes, very informative presentation. Didn't know the Ender used very basic parts so your Prusa price comparison with upgraded Ender hardware was an eye opener. Good job, keep up the good work!
Incredible your parents and educators must be so proud of you! I hope my two boys are as talented as you are!
For me the lack of annoying problems really sealed the deal for the Prusa. If you have more money than time then I’d go Prusa. If you have more time than money go Creality. Really just depends on what stage of your life you are on. Good printers either way.
also customer support is very important, I'm waiting now for mine to show up. I had looked at one more expensive in the $1500 range and they were not getting the reviews like Prusa, plus because of that there is also community support. For learning purposes I'm also going to buy some of there Prusament. Same reasoning not enough time, though I will be looking for a local supplier in the US
@@billnoname8093 I use hatch box. The cost of Prusament was too much. It works great!
I got all of 2 MONTHS before mine was a wreck, thanks to a blob forming and destroying the wires and other parts that it hardened around. $1000 for 2 months = a piece of crap. This is the review you should be listening to...
@@samualwilliamson1187 you know that’s all fixable right? You can buy replacement parts. Real advantage to not getting it built for you is you have an idea of how it goes together. Worst case scenario you but a new heat block? I had to do that when I tied to remove a blob. 50 bucks?
@@davidmuzia814 Yeah, I built my first one. When the wires broke from the sensor, the printer stopped working. Only option is a heatgun. I think it'll be $50-100 to fix, but the hours it'll prob take me is frustrating. Modular printers would be nice.
The Great YT Algorithm brought me here.
Your content, the thorough analysis, the step-by-step guides, etc has gotten my like & sub.
Thank you so much for your support!
I've subscribed to your channel after watching this video. Finally, a video where the presenter speaks at a nice even pace and clear enough that I can, not only understand what's being said, but also have time to process it. Thank you, keep up the great work!
Excellent comparison. I was looking at the Ender and already mentally upgrading things before buying it. Pretty much sold on a Prusa now.
Excellent video. I love the numerical comparison.
May I point out a few things? It's more than just print quality. It's your time. How many hours did you spend tinkering with the Ender 3 to get it to be as good as the Prusa, and what is your time worth? How much would you charge someone else for your expert skill in upgrading their Ender 3 to Prusa quality.
Also, there's a ton of little things the Prusa does that an Ender 3 doesn't. Like, having a filament out sensor on the direct drive that automatically heats up when it's time to load or unload the filament. Having an actually well tested UI that is reactive and makes sense. The Prusa is a quality of life upgrade.
Now, is that all worth the price? Well, developing that stuff isn't free, and developers and testers need to pay their bills.
When you buy a $100 pair of running shoes they may not make you run any faster, but after you've used them for 6 months, they'll be in better condition than the $20 running shoes you bought. Hopefully. I know the cheap shoes I buy I have to replace the insole every couple of weeks. Sure, I saved a lot on the initial purpose, but I've been walking on a hole in my shoe or incurring additional expense (and time) fixing the insole myself every couple of months, it's might be worth it to just pay the upfront cost.
And, that's kinda how I feel about the Ender 3 and the Prusa. Yes, you _can_ make the Ender 3 not suck as much, but the Prusa never sucks. At least not right away. Is that worth it? Now that you've added up the difference in the parts, and seeing how, quite frankly, little it difference is, I say yeah, totally worth it. But I'm nor intersted in doing cool prints than playing with my printer.
Thanks for that. There’s an Ender 3 S1 now. Has all of the good upgrades. Not sure how well it did them. But ya I just want to print. I don’t want to fuss around and be pissed. I want to use it like a tool.
Definitely some less tangible reasons like this. I have an original Ender 3 and I'm very seriously considering this printer because I'm tired of all the little tweaks here and there to just get it to print correctly.
THANK YOU PROFESSOR. Finally someone who gets it. It’s not about the money, it’s about the time. Upgrading and tinkering (read: fixing) my Ender was sorta fun at first but some days I just need to f*cking print. It could take hundreds of hours to install, troubleshoot, tune and tinker all the upgrades on an Ender. My hobby is designing robots, not fixing my printer.
You may be a teenager but you're by far the best 3d fdm printer reviewer on RUclips by a large margin.
Most thorough comparison on youtube, keep up the good work!
Oh my... first time viewer here...you are awesome!! Great review. I am sooo impressed. Thank you!
Simply the best is it worth some money, Prusa video I’ve ever seen. I’ve seen so many others, or people are like the ender three is just as good, after you spend half your life upgrading it. And never talk about the price of all of the upgrades get reviews are simply becoming my favorite ones.
Best review on RUclips straight to the point & in-depth thanks
Great Review
At my work we have just bought a Prusa i3 MK3s+, and it just works out of the box.
I like the open design and the full ecosystem, with printer and slicer fully integrated.
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us :-)
It makes me so happy to see young women in technology! Keep up the great work
Ce comparatif est extrêmement professionnel et scientifique de ta part. Tu compares pièces par pièce et à la même qualité, ce que beaucoup de youtubers s’amusent à faire pour dénigrer un matériel plus cher. Tu explique bien à quoi correspond le supplément de prix.
Bravo à toi, continue !
Good video and excellent points. I've got 2 Creality printers and a Prusa for 3 years. There's a few differences, and not all hardware. The one thing you missed is the vastly better MK5.2 heated bed - there is simply no comparison to the simpler beds Creality uses, not to mention the embedded magnets that makes a double sided steel sheet ready to use with no glue on base - this is quite a big difference. The frame is also unique to Prusa, though I see clones have emerged. The biggest difference though, is support - I originally purchased the mk3, but have been able to upgrade to the latest iteration. On the other hand, there is no Creality upgrades for my old CR10 mini which I bought at the same time - you are stuck with the original motherboard & hot end unless you want a non Creality alternative. The other big difference is software - Prusa slicer is a great product and firmware upgrades appear several times a year. Any issues they respond quickly. Also you mention the risk of damaging parts on assembly - a lot of people have had parts mailed out free of charge. Do half agree on one thing - print quality generally is similar to the Creality BUT ONLY for PLA. Even then I've had models that printed with no issue on the Prusa that struggled on the Creality. But if you just want pla printing workhorses, yes the ender is great
and an upgraded magnetic bed is easily under $50.. so for the same price as the Prusa you can get 3 to 4 modded creality printers that'll give you the same quality..
It's part of the times, get equal quality for less.
@@br0k3nilluzion the magnetic beds available for the creality range are still nowhere near as good as the mk3 bed. You are talking about surfaces, not the need itself, which is vastly inferior to them mk52 bed design. Also mechanically the Prusa design is far more stable. You'd spend hundreds to get exactly the same from a creality and there still isn't a bed for any of their printers that matches the mk52 design.
@@lff12 you're wrong.
mk3 is still a bed slinger.
You can get a very nice Y-Carriage for under $50, and a very nice magnetic bed for under $40.
Shoot, an LDO Prusa MK2 Y-Carriage is only $80.
That still leaves you under $400 for your printer.
Of which both are still using Marlin and both are still 8-bit boards.
For the price of a Mk3 I can get a cr10 v2/3 and Ender 3 v2/CR6 SE, both running 32bit boards and Klipper.. and I get the same quality as a finely tuned mk3.. we compare prints from our print farms at the makerspace here all the time. lol
@@lff12 All I'm saying is I can get my "creality" cr10 v2 using a 32bit board along with Klipper running smooth as heck and printing faster , for less then a mk3...
And if one was to spend the mk3 money, it'd be better spent on a CoreXy, or a CoreXZ like a Voron Switchwire.
But the MK3 is most definitely a good printer.. not knocking it by anymeans..
@@br0k3nilluzion sure you can get autolevelling (40 dollars), a removeable bed (but not the fully specced mk52, 50 dollars), updated extruder and hotend (bondtech DDX 135 dollars, Copperhead 105), 32 bit board that supports standalone mode (MKS 32-bit board with TMC steppers 75 collars) - all of that is 400 dollars and you still have a basic heated bed rather than the MK52, and whatever power supply it came with, and by now a CR-10S costing 300 on a good discount plus all of that is 700 dollars - less than 200 shy of what a proper MK3S+ kit will cost you, plus you've still to do all the assembly and figure out the firmware yourself, and you are on your own with most of this, because most of these come with no support whatsoever. Even the Prusa mini is a better deal. Unless, as I said, you are only planning to print PLA, in which case you are probably as well off with an Ender plus or ender max if you want a bigger bed.
just subscribed and im watch every single video. i like how every sentence you say have a point and there is nothing useless at all. this should be the golden standard for tech review video
I came to the same conclusion, you pay for convenience, that's why I have one besides my other printers. The support is also excelent if you need it, but may be less good outside of europe because of shipping time / cost.
One of the best reviews I’ve seen on any 3D printer well done
Greatly appreciate your videos I just hope your doing this because you enjoy 3d printing and not because your parents force you too. Keep up the great videos very informative
One of the best prusa reviews! Very objective, lots of information.. good work
Excellent video. Was curious to hear what your conclusion would be. I plan on buying this printer in a couple months and it’s helpful to see videos like this. Comparing it to an upgraded Ender was a great idea and helpful.
I’m looking forward to whatever you post next.
Your quality is amazing. Great job
You're doing a great job in explaining things. Thanks for you effort and your insights.
Great video! As an engineer myself, I’m doing a lot of research to decide on my first 3D printer and this video single handedly convinced me to decide on getting a Prusia. I’ll be getting the Mini but I appreciate how much Id be paying for the Prusia brand and conveniences that come along with it. Looking forward to watching the channel’s content! Keep it up!
Dont get the the mini...you will regret it. Get this printer.
@@garrydye2394 oh, what will I regret? Which printers do you like using?
@@garrydye2394 Come on m8, you can't just drop it like that. There has to be a reason why you think it's a bad choice. I'm just about sold on a Prusa mini too. What's to regret in your opinion?
Great review. The board is 8 bit since the printer is an updated version of an older model: the good thing with Prusa printers is that you do not have to buy a new model every time, but you can upgrade your existing one. My mk3s+ was originally a mk3, then it has been updated to mk3s and now mk3s+ with only a few bucks. I'm sure the next mk4 will be 32 bit. A well tuned 200 $ printer can print with almost the same quality, but you have to tune it. The Prusa is a workhorse: you turn it on and start to print, and it prints well virtually forever, with almost zero manteinance needed. P.S. the extruder fan is a Noctua. If you know Noctua brand, you also know why you should add another 15 bucks to your price list. The printer definitely worths the money.
Great video and details!!!
As you have pointed out, the MK3S+ is so much more than the Ender 3 with all the upgrades. This is from an Ender 3 Pro owner.
This the best most concise comparison ive found on RUclips. Very very helpful
When adding the price of the used parts you also should consider shipping costs, unless you can get them all in one place.
Great video.
I just see your video for Prusa and give me awesome information for what is plus and what minus.
I think for two more printers for my first one and hope soon to make my huge step in this universe 🤗
Thank you and I will look forward for new videos here.
Good quality video, very simple explained with details.
Very underrated Channel. You are one of the best 3D Printer Channel
this is so professional and informative! that's some fantastic work, thanks for publishing this.
The Ender 3 blew me away - probably the most bang for the buck in my life. OTOH I felt a twinge of buyer's remorse with the i3 MK3S+. But I do like the 300 C extruder, the excellent bed, and auto leveling. I just have to stop thinking about the opportunity cost. 😐
I loved the part price comparison! I was trying to decide between the Prusa and the Ender 3 and this video made it an easy choice. I’m going with the Prusa.
This is an incredible versus overview. Just what I needed.
Keep it up, you'll keep doing big things!
New subscriber here, such an informative video. Im thinking of purchasing a Prussa and the cost of parts was very interesting and has helped me in my decision. Thank you.
You have great reviews. Very thorough!
fantastic job all around! great work with content and knowledge and even better with the behind the scenes filming, editing and formatting along with B roll integration and etc. true quality so thank you!
I dont subscribe to many channels BUT I 100% will be subscribing to this one. Looking forward to the step-by-step assembly video tonight.
Another great video. Thanks!
You keep mentioning your brother. It looks like you're doing all the work. What does he do? 😆
Wow great comparisson I could not have done better owning the prusa and also some upgraded creality printers!
I would love to get the Prusa. The design is so clean and neat. But the price of the creality is unbeatable
Your comparison is very on-point and useful. Thank you for doing this comparison. I also think the Prusa printer was the best for less than $1000. Also they have a pretty good and responsive customer service if you need to.
Looking to get into 3D printing at work. Great video content. Think I'm sold on the Prusa as our first, and you've earned a new subscriber for your awesome content🤙🏽
Your videos helped me decide to go with the Prusa over the Ender 3 V2. Thank you!
good honest review, i bought refurb cr10s pro v2 for 350 bucks and prints great for the money
I would suggest to go to broader audience: Mobile phones, CPU's, GPUS, drones, etc. This is great work!
Yes, you are right! I always want to get a drone, I will receive my first DJI Mavic Mini soon, I will post a video and share my experience.
Splendid work. Thank you!
Congrats for the video ! Great job !
Nice work. A good analysis of the printer and very easy to understand your explanations. Thank you for a good job.
Super nice video, very impressive, wish you and your family all the best and success in your life.
Great review however you forgot to mention the support you get from Prusa when you buy one of their machines. I have a Mini+, MK3S+, and a Ender 5 Plus and I had to rely on reddit to find fixes for issues I was having for my Ender 5 Plus. For Prusa I only need to chat them up.
Very good video. Thanks for sharing. I have three 3D printers and I’m getting this one next.
Awesome video guys, great work!
very detailed review. I can see this channel being a big hit considering presenters age.
If you're adding the price of the Prusa upgrades, you should also deduct the value of the Ender parts that you are discarding/reselling to objectively appraise the value.
Great Job! Most honest review I’ve seen to date.
Great Video! exactly the information a new comer needs when buying their printer.
About that 8bit chips, automotive uses them too. Reason is that as they are simple, they are strictly deterministic, so you know exactly what and when will run and how long it will take. If you use larger 32bit chips, even if they are cheaper, you work with them different way. You have to handle more processes and now you don't know if some other process blocks you or what else happens in the system. And more for that old 8bit chips are made for direct analog and digital IO operations, but 32 bits? they have only buses, so you have main chip, and one of this stupid chips connected on the bus, then you can indirectly read or write data. Other part is history, Atmega2560 is used in Arduino Mega which seems to be origin of rambo board. I nowdays use 4 of them as part of my project, they are great and have more than enough power for anything.
Just wanted to point out that an 8 or 16 bit processor is not necessarily a bad thing. Anything similar to a CNC machine tends to be less buggy with a smaller processor. Something to do with the code translating properly to the stepper motors and not over calculating the process and giving the user enough time to fix mistakes. I don't know the nitty gritty, but it's been proven to provide a more stable machine.
Great video thank you for all your hard work
wonderful and very informative video. Thank you (and well done!)
Thank you for asking this question. I never understood why the prusa is worth that much and what makes it better than the ender 3
Hy, You have do make the same comparaison today with Prusai3 MK3S + VS Creality Ender 3 S1 !! It will be a good fight !!
Love your videos, great work! Seeing that stringing on the creality machine makes me think that your hotend needs some attention. I printed some heavy retraction models on an Ender and stringing was way less.
Very nice prints from the prusa, some parts seems affected by some Z wobble of some sort, like the white hinges at 6:49 and partially the benchy too. Something to adjust during assembly maybe?
It should be compared to 750$ printers. Its kinda funny that the comparison is always the cheap printers vs 750$ prusa.
"Everyone else is a maker, only I am a printer" - with all these comments of out-of-box experience, it's pretty clear who are makers and who are printers.
Excellent job on the review! I would also point out the integrated Z axis screws that require no coupling. Couplings can be a source of Z wobble.
Excelent, effective, usefull. Thanks for no music.
Very impressive video, thank you !
in your print quality you admit the black 'hides the layers' - that is the wrong way to look at things for a test print where the quality is the most important factor. just because it's harder to see, doesn't mean the flaws aren't there. Would have been better to compare prints from each printer.
The simple fact is, out of the box - without doing much fine tuning or crazy things/upgrades, the stock ender 3 can print just as good, if not better, than the prusa. Sure you can spend hundreds, if not thousands of dollars changing it to something else - or running faster, or going even crazier with lower layer lines - but it still doesn't change the fact that a simple $170/$155 printer, performs as well, if not better, than a $750.
Many of the 'clones' are also as good as the originals. The Tower Test is a retraction nightmare, the fact it has a Direct Drive helps retractions greatly. You can upgrade the ender3 to have a good direct drive for less than $60. So now your comparing a $220 printer to a $750.
There are plenty of motherboards and driver combinations that exceed the performance of the prusa's - under $125. The real question is "do you want this to be a hobby or a profession" As a hobby maker, the ender 3 is superior in every way. It allows near limitless upgrades and modding to get a wide variety of desired effects. While the Prusa is more "i want to start printing and selling prints in less than 24 hours"
Take an ender 3, spend a month with it, and upgrade as you see fit - a better deal for anyone taking this as a hobby that 'might sell things in the future'.
best 3d print channel!
Convenient is the right word, although for someone who just wants to press print and go the kit might be a bit of a challenge so they probably buy the completely assembled one which is over 1000 bucks or more in Europe. For 1000 USD I would say it is a bit overpriced. Problem is that Prusa can maintain that steep mark-up for a 4 year old model printer because for what it offers there really is no competitor on the home market today.
Try going Ultimaker and see if it is overpriced, Prusa is the right middleground of quality and price. Also, as an owner of a couple MK3S, they have been improving things over time, the 4 year old MK3 is different enough to the MK3S+ right now in plenty of details to make it a better machine.
As interesting as it is for its own sake to get a break down of the parts used for the Prusa, and how much each of them costs, it doesn't do anything to answer the question of whether the Prusa is worth the money. All it does is answer a different question (is Josef making too much profit on each sale?) and then reframe what the original question was. The question goes from "is the Prusa worth the money?" to "is it worth putting those expensive parts into a printer?" Or to put it a different way, do the benefits received from the use of more expensive parts justify the price difference? This is the relevant question to address.
Great video! Thank you. How do you feel about all the 3d printed parts? Personally not a fan. Wish there were more machined parts.
Me too, I am not a big fan of 3d printed parts, some of them may not fit perfectly with the nuts when you build it, but they actually work pretty well.
This is a great comparison video! I am about to buy my first 3D printer. I have heard good things about the Prusa, but I wondered whether the cost difference was really worth it. Your video answered all my questions. Your review of the high quality parts and operation of the printer were excellent. Thank you!
As a follow-up, based on this video and your Prusa assembly video, I ordered one. I will be watching your assembly video along with the instruction book to build my 3D printer. Thank you for these videos!
@@michaelj3971 How do you like it?
@@KillerofGods So far, I really like it. The shipping time was not as long as I thought it would be. It was shipped within 2-3 days. It arrived one day after FedEX claimed it would be delivered. I wasn't sure about the delivery, as FedEX never updated their tracking information after it arrived at their air freight hub in Memphis. It was packed very well, pretty much in bags corresponding to the section you are building. One part was in a different bag than I expected, but a community comment pointed me to the right bag. They include a bag of spare hardware just in case, but I had no missing parts.
The build process was straightforward. Patience is more than a virtue, it is required. Take your time building it, doublechecking things along the way. I ended up using both the video here and the online manual. The online manual is very good, as you can zoom in on the pictures, and there are a lot of really good community comments for each step. Some steps require judgement, like tightening the belts. The community comments help in those steps. My process was to watch the video section, look at the online manual step, browse the community comments, and *then* perform the step.
The only part of the build process I was disappointed with was the cable routing and dressing. That could be improved. Otherwise, it went together well. It is important to not overtighten the screws. First, tightening like Kong is not necessary for the printer to work correctly. Second, the printed parts can be broken.
It powered up just as expected and passed the startup self tests first time through. It took me several tries through the Z Axis setup before I thought the Z Axis position was good enough, but my first print, a Benchy, printed extremely well. The bow and sides had no flaws I could see. Since then I have printed maybe only a dozen parts, but I have had zero issues. It has just worked.
@@michaelj3971 TYVM for the detailed response, Im gonna order a unit and give it a go.
@@KillerofGods Great! I would be very interested in any feedback you ha e, also.
Great content. Very helpful and informative. Keep up the good work. :)
Very Very good review and facts, that many forget to mention, if the recommend an Ender for beginners.
The quality is almost the same. But the way with the basic stock Ender is way longer and you will mod that system.
what do you think a shop should buy? we just dove in recently. i bought a broken xplus, a broken davinchi 1.0, and a broken cmax. a new super racer that im happily breaking too often to use as i learn marlin, octiprint, ect. i need to buy an off the shelf unit for nylon and petg only. ill swap on a .6 nozzle x and have it print all the other machines parts. ive had a few wildly different carriage systems on the xplus. its good with the icarus now but the ribbon cable gave up from all the handling. the cmax had crazy mods to the controller, so its getting one of the octipus boards i have here. im building a eail set for it so it only runs x up and down. the davinchi is almost finished with its new octopus board wiring. learning firmware has been bumpy, but il get there. ive been thinking an ender3 with a few mods, but if i go beyond a nozzle, ill get carried away and i need one to make the parts for everyone else so they all can eventually work well.
Awesome review. You really know your stuff 👍
maybe last year but compare is to ender 3 S1 399USD or ender 3 S1 pro i am not sure of its price because not yet released in my country but i think that would be interesting comparison since the ender updated
Guys, you rock! Thank you for your detailed video!
Great review, very objective and constructive, i just subscribed!
Great video! What program do you use to create the STL files for your custom 3D prints?
who makes the best printer with a 500 mm bed size???
this kid literally has enough printers for a print farm while im struggling my ass off trying to get by with just 2 ender 3 printers and im already going to be 20 soon
As an owener of both I can tell you know you will need to spend over 700 to get a half decent 3d printer... The Prussa will do that out the box. The Ender 3 will require numerous upgrades to keep it running long term and to bring it on par with a Prussa. If you've got time to tinker with the printer and enjoy that, get the Ender 3, if not the Prussa wins hands down allday long. The support on Prussa makes it worth it alone.
Solid review, thanks.
Very impressive, great review
12:03 which printer performs best for quality print according to you? I guess you're refering high end printers as ultimaker or bambu lab (commonly known names followed by prusa)
I spent the first month trying to fix my elephant foots from an Ender 3 (z-binding due to tight rollers). So if you want something work better our of the box maybe the Prusa is better.
Great video, I’m ordering one.
Great vidéo.
Thank you very much 😀👍👍👍
Fantastic video! Thank you
Awesome. Thanks!!
Thank You wonderful video and great information. I liked the way you two put the videos together, your parents should be so proud of you. I have a question. I have a CR 10S Pro V1. Would the bed level sensor on this Prusa work on my printer too. Do you think the linear bearing should be added to this 10S for better detail printing. Have you looked into the Direct Drive options for the 10S Pro? or any printer. I see upgrades are available but most are pretty expensive. I have added the connecting gear and belt to the top of the dual Z drives, I have clamped the Z axis bed adjusters down tight, I have added a Swiss Micro Hot end and Hardened Steel Nozzle. ( I print Model Train parts and needed High Heat resistant parts for the smoke generator housing). I also added a pair of Z axis Struts to stiffen the vertical frame. You Guys are just treat to watch and i am learning from. you. imagine that. I am 72 y.o. with advanced degrees and 45 years in Engineering but you are helping me improve my productivity more than you can imagine. God Bless, Dennis