The 1/4" NPT OD is actually about 0.5" or 1/2" OD. You have to go back to pipe production in the 1800s for it to make sense. At that time metallurgy was not what it was by the early 1900s. Using 1/2" pipe as an example, early 1/2" pipe had in inside diameter of 1/2" but the pipe walls were thick. In the 1920s better metals allowed for thinner walls but in order to fit earlier fittings, the O.D. had to remain the same so the ID became much larger. That's true across all common plumbing sized pipe; it's just a carryover from early mass production and we're still using the system.
I think I would tie that power switch on the tank drain into the circuit when the compressor kicks on. Then set the auto drain to every 1 or 2 minutes (While the compressor is running). Then set the drain time to maybe bleed of a couple short bursts like every few seconds or so. That way, everytime the compressor starts, so does the auto drain switch. When power goes off on the compressor switch, it also shuts off the auto drain switch.. Then, it's not popping off every 45 minutes during every 24 hour day. I don't know why the timer is only a max of 45 minutes....should be hours or days, not minutes.
Is there a system out there designed to catch the water drained from the air compressor? I have it in my garage and it makes a mess unless I role it outside. Can you make a video on this or how to make something to catch the water?
Late response: You should only get a mist and not solid water. If that much water is coming out you're either in an incredibly humid area (I'm on the Texas Gulf Coast) or you're not draining often enough or both.
I have one of the electronic drains and it works really nice. Had it for about 3 years. Charles
thank you so much for posting you are a life saver.
dont understand why its called a 1/4 when the thread diameter is 1/5 inch
The 1/4" NPT OD is actually about 0.5" or 1/2" OD. You have to go back to pipe production in the 1800s for it to make sense. At that time metallurgy was not what it was by the early 1900s. Using 1/2" pipe as an example, early 1/2" pipe had in inside diameter of 1/2" but the pipe walls were thick. In the 1920s better metals allowed for thinner walls but in order to fit earlier fittings, the O.D. had to remain the same so the ID became much larger. That's true across all common plumbing sized pipe; it's just a carryover from early mass production and we're still using the system.
Any thoughts on the zero-loss magnetic drains that don't require power?
I think I would tie that power switch on the tank drain into the circuit when the compressor kicks on. Then set the auto drain to every 1 or 2 minutes (While the compressor is running). Then set the drain time to maybe bleed of a couple short bursts like every few seconds or so. That way, everytime the compressor starts, so does the auto drain switch. When power goes off on the compressor switch, it also shuts off the auto drain switch.. Then, it's not popping off every 45 minutes during every 24 hour day. I don't know why the timer is only a max of 45 minutes....should be hours or days, not minutes.
Is regular interval draining (as with the electronic option) important if using an aluminum tank?
Is there a system out there designed to catch the water drained from the air compressor? I have it in my garage and it makes a mess unless I role it outside. Can you make a video on this or how to make something to catch the water?
I know someone makes extension kits. You could pipe that outside or in a container.
Yeah that started after ridiculous regulations state the water drained from the compressor is damaging to the environment.
Late response: You should only get a mist and not solid water. If that much water is coming out you're either in an incredibly humid area (I'm on the Texas Gulf Coast) or you're not draining often enough or both.
If you're not in a freezing climate, I plumbed mine into a furnace pump and it just pumps it up hill to a shop sink.