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It is great to see people experimenting and sharing their tests! Great work👏👏!!!! I started to learn welding because I needed to fix my trailers! Even though I tried to keep as simple as possible and as easy as possible, only after wasting a lot of time and money on machines, rods and techniques… I figured that the easiest way to get strong welds for my trailer was using circular motion with 110/220v stick welder running Lincoln or Forney 7018ac (for some reason the AC version is much easier to strike an arc compared to the regular 7018(for the regular 7018… I tried Hobart and Vulcan and probably because of my limited experience, it was very hard for me to strike an arc! Because it was hard for me to use the Hobart 7018, i tried to switch hobart 7014 and it was a piece of cake to strike an arc but then i came across another problem… 7014 was only easy for me to run on flat surface… when i tried on vertical… the 7018ac was a lot easier for me. So for a moment I thought I had it figured it out… but unfortunately in ran into another problem when i had to weld overhead with 7018ac and I was just could not get it right and without burning myself. I am now interested in doing a 1st pass using 6010 because I saw another youtuber welder showing that running 6010 before running 7018 also makes it easy to apply 7018. Now that I see you applying 6010 in circular motion and I will try to do 1st pass 6010 in circular motion and then apply 7018ac also in circular motion. If possible I want to learn 1 technique that is easier to get consistent welds for both 6010 and 7018ac rods.
There's another thing you can do with small 3/32" 6011. You can tack-weld sheet metal that's too thin to run a bead on. Even though it has an agressive arc, it's also a fast-freeze stick. A smaller size stick, if you could find it, would cost twice as much. But 3/32" 6011 is everywhere and as cheap as anything else. I got one of those $100 amazon welders, I set it at 50A, strike the arc, make the puddle, and break the arc. (The range is 40-90A, but below 50 you keep sticking the rod.) If you move over 2 to 5 inches, depending on the thickness of the metal, and do the next tack, you can reduce the heat (and distortion). 6011 is good at welding without a lot of prep, so if you keep tacking around, at some point you have a bead of welded sheetmetal without too much distortion. This is slow, but fixing holes isn't fast, and severe heat distortion can be impossible to fix. With a better machine, maybe you could turn it down to 35A and run a continuous bead, but this method will always work. I know this isn't the kind of welding you do, but I bet some of your viewers already do it. And lots of people have slow seasons and not much money (or kids), so I put it out there for anyone who wants to try it. (If you have a tig or mig welder, I'm not really talking to you.) Very little of what you do is something I'm likely to ever do, but the way you do what you do is still inspirational. Thanks for the channel !
Go ahead and use 6011 rods on AC if you don't mind all the damn sticking those rods do. Use 7014 instead. Much less chance for sticking. Clean the rust off first which is usually easy to do. I've never used 6011 on D.C. So maybe it actually is a good rod, in that case. 7018 sticks at least as bad as 6011 but is really good with D.C.
btw... the video on youtube where the guy gives some tips on how avoid getting burned when doing overhead is from youtuber Taylor Welding and the video is called "welding overhead 7018 tips and tricks"... the only thing i wished that he had done is do testings of strength like you did and also I wished he had mentioned if circular motion could also be an option for both rods. Well, when you have time... here is an idea for a future video and I believe you could call it "dont get burned with overhead welding... safe and easy way to weld with 6010 + 7018ac"
6011 Welding Rods on Amazon: amzn.to/3MOQEDX MORE: For those who like the things which RUclips doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here! Also, check out our Patreon page to help support the channel: www.patreon.com/OWFA?fan_landing=true SOME OF MY FAVORITE TOOLS: KNIPEX German Made Pliers-Wrench: amzn.to/35fchvN OTC Slide-Hammer Kit: amzn.to/3p7mq4Q Carbide Burrs - An Affordable Set That’ll Last: amzn.to/2VsxTgH SUNGLASSES I WEAR - Quality at twice the price: amzn.to/2VegmbE Regular Safety Glasses that I Use: amzn.to/2ATXtEf Yes, these are affiliate links. Thanks for watching!!
I can only weld at 75 amps with my titanium welder harbor freight but my 6010 6011 it keeps sticking but running 7018 it runs as smooth as smooth can be
I. Have the same titanium one I’m really struggling with the 6011 hard to restart and sticks easily if I get distracted. I’ll pick up a box of 7018 to give it a try .otherwise I think I might have to run it at the 220v mode
I think we should also take into consideration that by the time you were swinging the sledge hammer on the circle motions welds you most likely had less energy in your swings (as you already swung 13 times before you started the first circle weld test and 21 times before you started the 2nd circle weld test.).
JOIN OUR EXCLUSIVE PROJECT SUPPORT GROUP With WEEKLY GROUP CALLS For Coaching On Farm Equipment Repair, Welding & Metal Fabrication! Its An Affordable, And Easy Skill-Building Program With Only A 1 Month Minimum!
Learn About The Program Here: ruclips.net/video/LbxxZ4l9LnU/видео.html
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I was was a follower of your old channel and I am glad to see you are back you had good welding videos
you are a good welder very knowledgeable.thank's you have helped me out more than once.keep the good vids comming.
It is great to see people experimenting and sharing their tests! Great work👏👏!!!! I started to learn welding because I needed to fix my trailers! Even though I tried to keep as simple as possible and as easy as possible, only after wasting a lot of time and money on machines, rods and techniques… I figured that the easiest way to get strong welds for my trailer was using circular motion with 110/220v stick welder running Lincoln or Forney 7018ac (for some reason the AC version is much easier to strike an arc compared to the regular 7018(for the regular 7018… I tried Hobart and Vulcan and probably because of my limited experience, it was very hard for me to strike an arc! Because it was hard for me to use the Hobart 7018, i tried to switch hobart 7014 and it was a piece of cake to strike an arc but then i came across another problem… 7014 was only easy for me to run on flat surface… when i tried on vertical… the 7018ac was a lot easier for me. So for a moment I thought I had it figured it out… but unfortunately in ran into another problem when i had to weld overhead with 7018ac and I was just could not get it right and without burning myself. I am now interested in doing a 1st pass using 6010 because I saw another youtuber welder showing that running 6010 before running 7018 also makes it easy to apply 7018. Now that I see you applying 6010 in circular motion and I will try to do 1st pass 6010 in circular motion and then apply 7018ac also in circular motion. If possible I want to learn 1 technique that is easier to get consistent welds for both 6010 and 7018ac rods.
Great information clearly stated probably the best puddle shot on the internet thank you
Thanks Buddy! Loved this tutorial
Good explanation, keep it going ✨
There's another thing you can do with small 3/32" 6011. You can tack-weld sheet metal that's too thin to run a bead on. Even though it has an agressive arc, it's also a fast-freeze stick.
A smaller size stick, if you could find it, would cost twice as much. But 3/32" 6011 is everywhere and as cheap as anything else.
I got one of those $100 amazon welders, I set it at 50A, strike the arc, make the puddle, and break the arc. (The range is 40-90A, but below 50 you keep sticking the rod.) If you move over 2 to 5 inches, depending on the thickness of the metal, and do the next tack, you can reduce the heat (and distortion). 6011 is good at welding without a lot of prep, so if you keep tacking around, at some point you have a bead of welded sheetmetal without too much distortion. This is slow, but fixing holes isn't fast, and severe heat distortion can be impossible to fix.
With a better machine, maybe you could turn it down to 35A and run a continuous bead, but this method will always work.
I know this isn't the kind of welding you do, but I bet some of your viewers already do it. And lots of people have slow seasons and not much money (or kids), so I put it out there for anyone who wants to try it. (If you have a tig or mig welder, I'm not really talking to you.)
Very little of what you do is something I'm likely to ever do, but the way you do what you do is still inspirational. Thanks for the channel !
The circle method is what i learned at my welding school, i always found it to be easier to be consistant thn with the whip and pause 😅
Thank you for the the 6010 vid
clearly explained
Go ahead and use 6011 rods on AC if you don't mind all the damn sticking those rods do. Use 7014 instead. Much less chance for sticking. Clean the rust off first which is usually easy to do. I've never used 6011 on D.C. So maybe it actually is a good rod, in that case. 7018 sticks at least as bad as 6011 but is really good with D.C.
btw... the video on youtube where the guy gives some tips on how avoid getting burned when doing overhead is from youtuber Taylor Welding and the video is called "welding overhead 7018 tips and tricks"... the only thing i wished that he had done is do testings of strength like you did and also I wished he had mentioned if circular motion could also be an option for both rods. Well, when you have time... here is an idea for a future video and I believe you could call it "dont get burned with overhead welding... safe and easy way to weld with 6010 + 7018ac"
6011 Welding Rods on Amazon:
amzn.to/3MOQEDX
MORE: For those who like the things which RUclips doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here! Also, check out our Patreon page to help support the channel: www.patreon.com/OWFA?fan_landing=true
SOME OF MY FAVORITE TOOLS:
KNIPEX German Made Pliers-Wrench:
amzn.to/35fchvN
OTC Slide-Hammer Kit:
amzn.to/3p7mq4Q
Carbide Burrs - An Affordable Set That’ll Last:
amzn.to/2VsxTgH
SUNGLASSES I WEAR - Quality at twice the price:
amzn.to/2VegmbE
Regular Safety Glasses that I Use:
amzn.to/2ATXtEf
Yes, these are affiliate links. Thanks for watching!!
What machine are you running? Thinking of scooping one up !
You would never break my welds with a hammer
I can only weld at 75 amps with my titanium welder harbor freight but my 6010 6011 it keeps sticking but running 7018 it runs as smooth as smooth can be
I. Have the same titanium one I’m really struggling with the 6011 hard to restart and sticks easily if I get distracted. I’ll pick up a box of 7018 to give it a try .otherwise I think I might have to run it at the 220v mode
I think we should also take into consideration that by the time you were swinging the sledge hammer on the circle motions welds you most likely had less energy in your swings (as you already swung 13 times before you started the first circle weld test and 21 times before you started the 2nd circle weld test.).
How you strike arc so fast. I can't with 6011. 6013 strikes easy
you gotta strike it like a match then come up off the metal a bit so it doesn't stick
Gotta be gentle and an auto darkening lens helps