This video explains the differences between 6010 & 6011 welding electrodes. Thanks for watching & subscribing to TVWeld! #tvweld #brentharkness #welding #jccmti
Good breakdown, that tiny difference is of consequence more relative to the specific welder you are using than the weld of the individual rods. Obviously with 6011 you get a benefit from the ability to run on AC as well as DC and the reason for that comes up next with the specific coating on the rods. In a nutshell sodium combined with the cellulose requires a higher open circuit voltage to keep the arc ignited than does the cellulose potassium based coating of the 6011. The ability to maintain the arc with the lower open circuit voltage is what gives the 6011 Rod the properties to run on AC current. If you can picture a sine wave the alternating current goes from DC plus to DC minus and as it does so it passes through zero current at that point low open circuit voltage exists and a 6010 rod would not stay ignited like a 6011 rod. Also some DC only machines do not provide enough open circuit voltage to keep the 6010 arc lit. So, IMPO, carry 6011 that is more forgiving than 6010. Lastly, and technically, at the same amperage settings, with the same exact arc gap the 6011 rod will provide (depending on application) either the ability or detriment of an ever so slightly reduction in penetration when run on AC current simply based on the constantly reversing direction of electron/heat flow to parent material.
I’m a full time welder and run an older Miller shop master 300 all day. We use both 6010 and 6011 in the shop as well as 6013 and 7018. I find that the 6010 digs in deeper than 6011 on penetration. But the 6011 flows a little better resulting in a smoother bead. I really like the 6011. It’s a nice rod that does a lot and with care you can even cream nice looking bead.
And on a sidenote 6010 will NOT run with most (if not all) consumer grade boxes. 6010 requires a high voltage to create and maintain an arc. 6011 will run because it has potassium and that allows for an easier arc .
Hobart has a 6010 rod that is capable of running on AC or DC not just DC like most 6010. Personally I don’t really like 6010 though, it’s a violent digging electrode where 6011 gets good penetration as well but is more controllable and produces a nicer weld. One thing 6010 will do better is burn right through rust paint and even oil and produce a decent weld where other rods would struggle with the dirty or contaminated surface
6010 is for dc. 6011 has potassium added to create an ionic field around the weld puddle/rod for AC alternating current to, well, alternate. Current jumps from +-+-+-. The ionic field makes this transition smoother. That makes 6011 and 6010 able to weld in DC while AC needs 6011 (with the ionic field)
My welding teacher had me use 6011 instead of 6010 for a root pass the other day, and he told me they run pretty much the same… needless to say I was more than a little frustrated when they did not, in fact, run the same.
I hadn't ran 6011 in like 20 years and tried it not too long ago and I would agree that it doesn't run like 6010. That being said during the 20 years of not running 6011 whenever someone asked the difference between 6010 & 6011 I always responded, they are basically the same rod. I run regular 5P 6010 which is a much more violent rod. 5P+ 6010 I'd say is fairly close to 6011. So at the end of the day 5P+ is close to 6011, but I'd say regular 5P is much different than 6011.
@@TVWeld So, I have had the question ever since I started welding and no one has been able to satisfy my curiosity. Maybe you'll be the golden child, here goes. For what reason do the engineers specify 6010 for the root on pipe welds???
@@3Hose That's basically what it is designed for. It has deep penetration, cleans the base metal, and has a stable arc that the welder can easily manipulate. That's why it is used for root passes. Engineers specify it because that's what a CWI put in the welding procedures!
If both 6010 and 6011 are available and I have an AC/DC welder, how do I choose between them? What's the difference between 6011-AC and 6011-DC? What effective difference does sodium vs potassium cellulose flux make?
Potassium increases arc stability. The reason they put sodium in 6011 is to increase the ionization potential of the arc which helps when running on AC. If you have DCEP on your machine I'd go with 6010, but that is just my preference. I've never had the opportunity to run a buzz box. I'm currently looking for one to run 6011 on just so I know how they run. People ask me about buzz boxes all the time & I never have any answers for them. I just want to play with one to see how they run.
I haven't ran 6011 in quite some time. Typically 6010 runs smoother than 6011 from my experience. They do run very similarly with very small differences in operating characteristics. It really comes down to the welder's preferences. Also, how they run can be directly related to the power source (welding machine) your using. Remember if you on an AC machine 6011 should be used & 6010 is only a DC rod. Keep practicing and try out a whip motion with 6010. It works great!
Thanks for explaining that Been using 6010 for years and my father in law has some 6011 and I noticed it worked better in his machine and had a hell of a time with my 6010. AC DC or DC only, big difference
I had to purchase 15 Lincoln MP 210 for a temporary lab. We tried to run 6010 on these machines and it absolutely would not run. We switch to 6011 and it welded like a dream. There's more of a difference in people realize.
@@adamclark94 You could, but 7018 doesn't have the digging power that 6010 has. If I was going to go that route, I'd wire wheel, then use 6010, and then go over the 6010 with 7018.
@TVWeld most truck frames are thin probably get 100 percent penetration with a 3/32 7018 alone. Heavier duty trucks probably go the 6010 route for root. Or if welding on a hitch mount
@TVWeld I got a couple 6010s left I might try and see how it works on my truck for a patch job though. I just figured it would burn through to much. Thanks for the replies and the video
The main reason is that a lot of cheap, bottom-of-the-barrel DC inverter stick welders cannot sustain a high enough arc voltage to keep a 6010 rod lit. Some of the better ones employ higher arc voltage in conjunction with added inductance which helps maintain the arc stability.
I am self taught and only do hobby welding. I use the 6013 for everything with my 50 year old Lincoln AC225 welder. I also have a 2 year old Lincoln Mig Pak 180 that I use with gas.
I just found an old buzz box the other day that I have no idea where it came from so I busted out some 6013 and let er have it! First time I ever used a buzz box.
Good breakdown, that tiny difference is of consequence more relative to the specific welder you are using than the weld of the individual rods.
Obviously with 6011 you get a benefit from the ability to run on AC as well as DC and the reason for that comes up next with the specific coating on the rods. In a nutshell sodium combined with the cellulose requires a higher open circuit voltage to keep the arc ignited than does the cellulose potassium based coating of the 6011.
The ability to maintain the arc with the lower open circuit voltage is what gives the 6011 Rod the properties to run on AC current. If you can picture a sine wave the alternating current goes from DC plus to DC minus and as it does so it passes through zero current at that point low open circuit voltage exists and a 6010 rod would not stay ignited like a 6011 rod. Also some DC only machines do not provide enough open circuit voltage to keep the 6010 arc lit. So, IMPO, carry 6011 that is more forgiving than 6010. Lastly, and technically, at the same amperage settings, with the same exact arc gap the 6011 rod will provide (depending on application) either the ability or detriment of an ever so slightly reduction in penetration when run on AC current simply based on the constantly reversing direction of electron/heat flow to parent material.
I’m a full time welder and run an older Miller shop master 300 all day. We use both 6010 and 6011 in the shop as well as 6013 and 7018. I find that the 6010 digs in deeper than 6011 on penetration. But the 6011 flows a little better resulting in a smoother bead. I really like the 6011. It’s a nice rod that does a lot and with care you can even cream nice looking bead.
Thanks, That is the answer I was looking for.
Can you do a video of using those rods? It would be nice to see them in action.
And on a sidenote 6010 will NOT run with most (if not all) consumer grade boxes. 6010 requires a high voltage to create and maintain an arc.
6011 will run because it has potassium and that allows for an easier arc .
Hobart has a 6010 rod that is capable of running on AC or DC not just DC like most 6010. Personally I don’t really like 6010 though, it’s a violent digging electrode where 6011 gets good penetration as well but is more controllable and produces a nicer weld. One thing 6010 will do better is burn right through rust paint and even oil and produce a decent weld where other rods would struggle with the dirty or contaminated surface
6010 is for dc. 6011 has potassium added to create an ionic field around the weld puddle/rod for AC alternating current to, well, alternate. Current jumps from +-+-+-. The ionic field makes this transition smoother. That makes 6011 and 6010 able to weld in DC while AC needs 6011 (with the ionic field)
6010 for dc +
My welding teacher had me use 6011 instead of 6010 for a root pass the other day, and he told me they run pretty much the same… needless to say I was more than a little frustrated when they did not, in fact, run the same.
I hadn't ran 6011 in like 20 years and tried it not too long ago and I would agree that it doesn't run like 6010. That being said during the 20 years of not running 6011 whenever someone asked the difference between 6010 & 6011 I always responded, they are basically the same rod. I run regular 5P 6010 which is a much more violent rod. 5P+ 6010 I'd say is fairly close to 6011. So at the end of the day 5P+ is close to 6011, but I'd say regular 5P is much different than 6011.
@@TVWeld So, I have had the question ever since I started welding and no one has been able to satisfy my curiosity. Maybe you'll be the golden child, here goes. For what reason do the engineers specify 6010 for the root on pipe welds???
@@3Hose That's basically what it is designed for. It has deep penetration, cleans the base metal, and has a stable arc that the welder can easily manipulate. That's why it is used for root passes. Engineers specify it because that's what a CWI put in the welding procedures!
If both 6010 and 6011 are available and I have an AC/DC welder, how do I choose between them? What's the difference between 6011-AC and 6011-DC? What effective difference does sodium vs potassium cellulose flux make?
Potassium increases arc stability. The reason they put sodium in 6011 is to increase the ionization potential of the arc which helps when running on AC. If you have DCEP on your machine I'd go with 6010, but that is just my preference. I've never had the opportunity to run a buzz box. I'm currently looking for one to run 6011 on just so I know how they run. People ask me about buzz boxes all the time & I never have any answers for them. I just want to play with one to see how they run.
Can both rods do negative DC polarity?
Yes. They really dig in on DCEN.
I have found that 6010's are much harder to run on an inverter type machine
Very good description
I'm very new to welding, I'm finding that 6011 is less troublesome getting to act right than 6010. Should they behave identically?
I haven't ran 6011 in quite some time. Typically 6010 runs smoother than 6011 from my experience. They do run very similarly with very small differences in operating characteristics. It really comes down to the welder's preferences. Also, how they run can be directly related to the power source (welding machine) your using. Remember if you on an AC machine 6011 should be used & 6010 is only a DC rod. Keep practicing and try out a whip motion with 6010. It works great!
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I have asked these pipe welding schools they refer to two rods 6010 and 7018 what about 7014 Farmers rod
I've used it once, and I believe that it is very similar to 7018 but it has a high deposition rate.
one
6012 Vs 6013 i found some similarities here also
Your accent.. Minnesota?
New York. 1 hour west of Buffalo almost on the Pennsylvania border.
Excellent breakdown. You answered each question that I had. Great video. Thank you.
6011 will run fine on those cheap Amazon inverter welders, where 6010 absolutely will not.
I thought one was for a welder that runs ac. And the other runs ac DC. Oh I seen the video said that. Thanks
ehmm…MAXIMUM tensile strength
Great explanation on the differences between these two rods. Short, succinct, and to the point. Liked & subbed! 👍
Thanks for explaining that
Been using 6010 for years and my father in law has some 6011 and I noticed it worked better in his machine and had a hell of a time with my 6010. AC DC or DC only, big difference
"Industry definition: just run it, hurry up" lol perfectly true
I had to purchase 15 Lincoln MP 210 for a temporary lab. We tried to run 6010 on these machines and it absolutely would not run. We switch to 6011 and it welded like a dream. There's more of a difference in people realize.
For sure!
Try to put a bead in a pipe with 6010 5p+ and then a 6011, you'll know the difference
Good video. More detail on how they actually run would be nice.
I prefer 6011. It's more elegant. But if you had to go midevil on a weld 6010 is your tool
You got to go midevil on the dirty stuff!!!
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6011 tends to be chewy compared to 6010. The impact resistance is something I was looking for and 6011 provides more resistance.
6010 for truck frame?
Fore sure. All day long!
Why not just use wire wheel and 7018 wont it last longer from vibration of driving ?@TVWeld
@@adamclark94 You could, but 7018 doesn't have the digging power that 6010 has. If I was going to go that route, I'd wire wheel, then use 6010, and then go over the 6010 with 7018.
@TVWeld most truck frames are thin probably get 100 percent penetration with a 3/32 7018 alone. Heavier duty trucks probably go the 6010 route for root. Or if welding on a hitch mount
@TVWeld I got a couple 6010s left I might try and see how it works on my truck for a patch job though. I just figured it would burn through to much. Thanks for the replies and the video
😀
good vid
Question why does some inverter welder work with 6010 and others do not ! Welding in dc
I don't do a lot of work with that type of welder, but I know a guy that lives with those. I'll ask him and get back to you.
The main reason is that a lot of cheap, bottom-of-the-barrel DC inverter stick welders cannot sustain a high enough arc voltage to keep a 6010 rod lit. Some of the better ones employ higher arc voltage in conjunction with added inductance which helps maintain the arc stability.
I am self taught and only do hobby welding. I use the 6013 for everything with my 50 year old Lincoln AC225 welder. I also have a 2 year old Lincoln Mig Pak 180 that I use with gas.
Try some 6010 it’s wild. Turn your amps down first!
@@michaelwelch442 I will, thankyou.
I just found an old buzz box the other day that I have no idea where it came from so I busted out some 6013 and let er have it! First time I ever used a buzz box.