Same here, having electrical background I needed “little bit” of theory and practical pointers as well. For me his online course was excellent and at 68 I actually learned a lot. But as he says, practice, practice and then - voilá, it all comes together. 👍
I've started practice 3 weeks ago, and I switched from weldingtips andtricks to this channel and also discovered Making mistakes with Greg channel. I feel like wt&t is to advanced for me (probably I'll return to it in the future) but TimWelds and Making mistaked with Greg are perfect for noobs like me (great explanations of the basics). After three weeks of watching and practicing I put together my own welding cart and it rolls! YT is great
Top notch teaching, warts and all, great job. I only do farm type welding and only use 6011 and 6013. 11 for thick and rusty and 13 for thin and clean. Both are Hobart from Tractor Supply Company. 1/8" usually set on 90 or 105 on my Lincoln buzzbox. Never had any of my ugly welds break yet. I did just order online some Esab Sureweld 6013 green rods. Looking forward to giving them a try, I hear they're great.
Man I'm so glad I found u. U give the BEST instruction and tips. I've tried a couple little tips that seem so miniscule but can make a world of difference. Love watching. Some people just have an unwatchable personality or voice. Not even sure what it is but u have a good presence.
Buy the course. Thank me later. It is great value. Yes, actual paying customer. It has excellent explanations and demonstrations. It's sequential and broken down so you don't get lost. You can re-watch parts of it many times if needed, which I have. I literally had no idea when I started and in fact have never welded. I just wanted to learn stick welding to do some projects around the house. So far, the courses helped me to not electrocute myself and not to burn myself or the house down (basic fabrication and safety part of the course). This makes my wife happy. Now starting to lay some beads of weld which look OK and doing some joins. How good. I literally started knowing nothing at all. Not a thing. If I can learn, anyone can. Thanks Tim. Awesome. Cheers
Here in Australia 6013, is the dominant welding rod, because for decades CIG ( Commonwealth Industrial Gasses), THE dominant player in the welding market at the time, pushed their Satincraft 13 brand very hard. So we all grew up using either Satincraft13 ( blue electrodes) or "GP" (grey electrodes, probably 6012) and most of us did not know about or use much else. . They ( 6013) are easy to produce a good looking weld with, but it is also very easy to get a very poor weld, with poor penetration and lots of slag inclusion. . We all learned on 120 amp buzz box type welders and 3.2mm ( 1/8) 6013 rods. Most did not progress any further. . Two very important things I wish I had learned decades earlier #1 run your rods high in the amp range, if you are not right at the top of the amp range, get some smaller rods. This is especially true of 6013, otherwise you will get poor penetration and slag inclusion. #2 learn about other rod types .
Not sure what more to add. Looks like ESAB w/ its cigweld brand pretty well dominated your welding territory. Maybe your area was niche & limited to blue & gray electrodes. Cigweld has a full range of filler metal choice. Some competition (if economial) might of been more healthy for the consumer. Cheers from sunny Florida.
@@miszced ESAB was pretty much unknown here till quite recently. We saw some lincon and a couple of other US brands, but only in the big end of town. Back in the 70's and 80's CIG was pretty much the only game in town. Untill a french company, then branded as "liquid Air" came to town, you where buying your gas from CIG. Even then we where paying extortionate rental on your bottles. It's only in the last 10 years of so we have had a number of independent gas suppliers come on to the market to bust up the rip off duopoply They always had a full range of CIG rods, but out side the specialist welding trade, we had Satincraft 13's and GP's and that was about it. A lot of that is because unless you where a high end welder you where welding AC Because of the very strong market position Satincraft 13's are very much over priced. I can buy good brands of 6013's for half the price, generics for even less, these days and now you can buy a good range of rods without going to a specialist welding shop. That said the average hardware shop will pretty much have 6013's and maybee somethung that equates to a GP or 6012. . Stick welding is not the BIG thing is is in the US. MIG and TIG has replaced stick and OXY in the vast majority of cases. . Like plasma cutting has replaced gass cutting in everythung but heavy work.
@@soundman6645 yes, familiar with Air Liquide & AIRGAS plus LINC. As far as the demise of stick welding process ... it's still here! Besides being a mature product, innovation continues with cost cutting & competitive benchmarking. The leap-frog* happened when the covering of stick electrode became the core of a steel sheath into gas shielded, selfshielded & metal core tubular wires for semi or automatic arc welding. * bit of an over simplification
Yeah 6013 is the most common rod over here in New Zealand too. I haven't done a whole lot of stick welding and kind of suck at it, but the more I learn about rod types, the more I think 6013 is kind of a tricky rod to learn with.
I used to use 7018 in a maintenance shop for years but I switched over to 7018 AC as recommended by my local welding supplier. What I noticed it there is a conductive ingredient in the flux that allows it to restrike without having to chip off the hardened flux. That was a huge plus to me. I also tried welding with it on DC and found I could not tell any difference in the way it ran. My opinion is it's the greatest welding rod of all due to those two advantages.
I have never ran any ac 7018, but I have ran a lot of DC 9018, and they seem to refire better than 7018. Of all the many DC 7018 I have run, Forney restarts the best and Blue Demon the worst. 6013 is a good rod all around if you get used to it, too, but you have to keep it moving along, unlike a low hydrogen. And 6013 isnt good for heavier stuff like 3/8" and up.
@@timberslasher4899 I always called 6013 "farm rod" Everyone uses it because there's so many AC buzz boxes around. Even though I have DC available to me at home I experiment with AC on other rods just for fun. From testing I found that many rods that most people run DC will run on AC if you need to. I throw the book away and see for myself what it acts like. The one rod I could not get to run on AC is 6010. It totally refuses to run but I expected that from what people say about it but I was given about 100 lbs of 7024 once and found it runs great on AC. Go figure.
@thomasjefferson1457 I have ran some 6011 but usually just where I can't get to something to clean it a little. I have never burned a 6010 rod I don't think in 30 years of this mess. I have no formal welding training other than high school shop. But my dads best friend owned a huge welding shop for 40 years that I grew up in half the time. I think they never bought anything but 7018....lol. So all these other rods are pretty new to me, in the last 5 years or so I have started trying different things. But still if I could only have one rod it would be 1/8" 7018.
@@timberslasher4899 I'm the same as you. I have no actual school training but started welding at about 12 years old helping my dad build stuff. I later worked around certified welders for years installing machinery and as a maintenance mechanic in an industrial plant. I eventually went to college for electronics and became the plant electrician. People used to say "you weld pretty good for an electrician" LOL I never considered myself a "welder" as such because of the lack of schooling. I watch lots of welding video's on you tube now to fill in the gaps of my lack of school training.
@thomasjefferson1457 about the same here, degree in emergency medicine and land surveying both, but spent last 30 years running family logging biz which involves lots of heavy welding. Always paid a lot of attention to good welders and got the reputation as a good welder/fabricator now myself.
Served my welding apprenticeship in a British shipyard BOC Vodex 6013 were the dominant rod all position as with all 6013’s finding the sweet amperage is the answer I have always found they run better on AC back then I could get a peel in any position Vodex 6013 are the best general purpose rods I have ever used 6018 Philips 56 s take some beating and 6010 NU 5s are my go to only got 50 years experience behind me so maybe one of the older guys could throw me some advice 🤣🤣
Personally 6010 roots are the bane of my welding existence, during school it was the biggest problem I had with any welding projects or tests, though I did eventually get to the point I passes my 6010/7018 pipe, and with my structural weld test with 1/2 carbon coupons. The most fun I have had was testing on stainless tig (for a job I applied for and got hired for) as it was enough of a challenge to push myself without feeling frustrated like I did with 6010 roots on my stick tests.
Great learning video! One tip on 6013, get the one with green flux, it has much fewer slag inclusion problems. I checked online, and the green 6013 is not easy to find in the US. Down here in Mexico almost all 6013 has the green flux.
I personally use 6011 & 7018 a lot at work, and don't really have any experience running any other rods. I like the channel because I feel it gives me an idea what to expect if I ever have to use anything I'm not familiar with.
I love 6013. 7018 is still my favorite go-to rod but 6013 has alot of benefits. It's great for thin metal since it comes in 1/16" rods which few others do. And like you mention it's easy to strike an arc
Tim, i just bought a vevor mma-140 and some 6011 3/32 and will be unboxing and trying it out in the morning. I've been binge watching your videos and i have to say your presentation/style and info are clear and to the point. Really looking forward to seeing how long it will take to lay down that first bead.👍
I got pretty good when learning MIG/TIG/oxy welding but stick welding just absolutely kicked my butt, especially trying to get a full pen root-pass weld, regardless of whether 2F like you're doing or 1G. Could never manage to get the right behavior and then the school, the next semester, moved to inverters from the old transformers and they were a totally different beast that I never could get used to. (The large transformers were just a lot smoother.)
I am in Australia and I do a lot of heavy repair work. I always use WIA 16tc rods. I guess you guys would have something similar. They leave a shiny glassy slab, and are an absolute pig to restart, I usually have an old house brick on hand, drag them across that and they start easily.
@@JC-dc7ez I have had a go at one of the opposition rods, cannot remember which brand. Was pretty good except overheads. I use nothing but Hyundai mig wire, great stuff
Very nice presentation. I learned welding in a junior college night class 40 years ago and at that time stick welding was the state of the art although MIG was around but not so common. I like stick welding because it allows one to get into small places such as on an assembled vehicle. I would like to have heard you comment on 7014 rods as that is what I have and use a lot. I would have liked to have seen you weld some 1/8 inch mild steel onto the frame of a vehicle which is what I am doing now. I am very anxious about this because I know it is easy to burn through the frame which creates a weak spot.
Since I have a cheap inverter stick welder machine, I will take your advice on the 7018AC version. I’ve tried three different types of rods, and it’s nearly impossible to develop an arc. I was able to lay a few welds with some 6013, but it literally took probably 100 attempts to get it to light up and hold an arc.
Has it improved? Don’t give up! The number on the display of some welders has nothing to do with the amps delivered. I often have to turn up the setting on my cheap welder so I can avoid sticking and strike an arc
Hey Tim, good clean simple presentation on the 3 common SMAW rods in use. I do believe some of the pros out there can use the larger 6010 diameter (5/32 & 3/16) for arc gouging once the polarity is switched.
Thanks a ton! That could be a prett cool way to gouge, I may have to look into that. I've only used air carbon arc gouging, but it's been a decade since I did much of that...don't miss that process much.
Just signed up for coarse based on other comments excellent value and the content is so well explained, really impressive!! Best $59 I’ve spent in a long time. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge
Can you go over the storage/lifetime issues with 7018? I've seen so many conflicting stories on this. What is the casual home welder to do when you need to open a whole box of rods and you only need a part of one rod?
I don't want to advertise someone else's channel on this guy's channel, but you can find videos debunking the idea that a casual home welder needs to store 7018 in a special way (assuming you aren't "casually" doing professional jobs specced for low hydrogen 😂). If you allow 7018 to pick up moisture, it will perform...better than a 6010 or 6011 or 6013 that is handled similarly. Think of "low hydrogen" as a superpower that you need if you were working in industry on a job specified for it. If you store 7018 out of an oven, it loses this superpower, but 7018 without its superpower is no different in that regard than any other rod you might ever use. You can find videos of a guy welding fillets using 7018 that sat in a cup of water overnight and getting stronger results on a break test than with a fresh 6000 series rod. Exposure just makes the 7018 no longer "low hydrogen" but that's the default state of all those other rods. Just think of improperly stored 7018 as "not low hydrogen" anymore...same as all your other rods.
@@zyx495 Thanks for taking the time to answer. That is the conclusion I've come to after digging in to this topic more deeply. I *think* I saw this in one of Tim's more recent videos, but if that isn't the case, my previous comment still stands.
Beautiful closeup shots.TU. I wish I could see this through my true color welding helmet but the aging eyes have reached their limit even with thick glasses. still it's fun to weld and listen to the sound ;-)
6011 is called a farmer rod in Maine. Paint, rust it don't care. I'm going to be getting some 6010's where I weld a lot of 1/2 and 3/4. Thanks for the info
I have a love hate relationship with 6013. Sometimes it doesn’t leave enough metal in a joint. But mostly, it’s the cat’s meow, giving me the smoothest joints. I probably need to take your course to become more consistent.
I use all of them but my favorite is one no one uses anymore - 7024. Big fat rod, great looking weld, slag just peels off. Not the best for everything but for a lot of the stuff around my house I love it.
Hey man great Channel I've got a about 13 mm round piece of Steel that I need to weld the same diameter end to end it was good I thought until it failed and it looks like the steel rod didn't get hot enough for the weld to fuse it was just the weld material holding it together and that was with my $200 Amazon welder with a 6013 rod I have a super old it says WS 225 k wire feed arc welder with Mac Tools branding on it that should give me different results I'm assuming or is welding something end to end like that not as strong?....thanks!
He is using a HTP they sent him to feature using in his vids, they are not cheap. Plus he is a weld engineer and i hear they have 6010 called for in specs instead of 6011. ( I think someone said 6011 was common in SA) Most of us have cheaper welders that won't run 6010, farm stores and HF don't carry them you have to go to a welding supply store to get them.
Okay the first 2 numbers of 6011 stand for tensile strength in psi so sixty thousand pounds the next number shows u its good for a position a 1 or 2 will be stated on the rod showing a 1 for all position a 2 for a flat and horizontal rod only so the last number is your rid make up and Flux types basically telling you what the rod is capable of doing
Is there a type (material/thickness) of plate you recommend for a backer? I’m about to start learning with coupons so the backer will probably take a beating 😅
Great stuff again thanks. Any tips on cleaning the electrode holder (stinger) Mine is the black and yellow esab one and the spring is pretty strong and the contacts are quite dirty
Can you dwelve into something like 7016 next time, if possible? 🙌🏻 I bought it once by mistake and have been using it since then, it's just so so so easy to weld with. But in all honesty, if I don't need to, I don't use electrodes at all... 😂 I'm a TIG welder, I like silence and solitude (without sparks) 🤣
@@elkvis May be. It forms glass-like slag that needs to be hammered off, but that's very easy. Also starts and restarts are simple, I've been shocked how good it welds too. The main benefit is precision with which welder can lay it down. It has become my go to electrode for home applications when it's windy or I'm out of flux-core.
Most electrode manufacturers have developed a 7018AC. They are generally featured w/ touch restrike, equivalent deposition rates to std 7018 & easy slag removal with better arc control in positional welding. 7018AC is better on AC (Buzz Boxes*) & may help with arc blow. *maybe a better choice of words, Hobbists with low output power sources
I'm a beginner. If i have 6013 and modern inwerter (dc) how yo connect wires? There is no information in manual and no suggested anything on electrodes. What to do, can you help me? Older welders says minus to ground cable
Yes, DC Electrode Positive (work clamp to negative) is going to be the best bet most of the time. You can switch them to reduce penetration on thin material, but it's very rare that I've done that.
Hi, I'm a newbie in welding. Currently I have a MMA welding machine but want to use this machine for MIG welding. Since my MMA machine Teoritically has 0~120A and its non-load voltage is 100V, then how to reduce the voltage down to 20V for MIG welding? This machine has only 1 amperage regulator knob (0~120A). Any help is very appreciated 🙏🏼
Unfortunately, this will probably not work very well. The reason has to do with the fundamental design of power supplies for different welding processes. MMA uses a constant current power supply, where MIG uses a constant voltage supply. The reason for this is that you don't directly control arc lenth with a wire feed process like MIG, so the power supply has to reach a stable point. With a constant voltage supply, power is increased with a short arc length to increase it and is decreased when the arc length is long to reduce it. Thus it will reach a balance point. The MMA power supply will not do this as effectively.
Q: Will stick welding be strong enough for my application? I want to weld up a seat for my bike for my 60# dog. I will use metal tubes bent to create the back and sides. The bottom will be fastened to my bike rack just the tubular sides will be welded. Thanks!
In general, Stick welding as a welding process can be very strong. Industrial equipment is repaired with stick welding all the time (by professionals). The more important aspects are: operator skill and competency in metal fabrication/engineering design. The strength/resilience of a completed welded project can highly depend on how the joints/geometry of the structure is designed, as well as the quality of the welded portions that tie it all together. So it begs the questions: Do you already know how to stick weld? Are you experienced in metal fabrication? Are you familiar with creating/evaluating the integrity of a concept structure that is to be welded? If all that is new to you, it might be best to seek advice from someone who is familiar with similar type work and possibly get their advice/input. Hope this helps.
6010 cellulose and sodium DC, 6011 cellulose and potassium AC/DC runs on old transformer machine and cheap chinese welders.unless they are really cheap. Both are fast freeze rods, what do you use when you need that. There was a review of a chinese welder and he said it wouldn't run either. I can't imagine getting by without one or the other.
Thanks! When I went to welding school, they actually had us dip our 6010 rods to help them maintain an arc with their early generation inverter machines...turns out there's a background setting that just needed to be changed, but no one realized that at the time. I haven't tried it since then or compared the spatter, that'll be an interesting experiment.
Would a stick welder be good for automotive stuff? Like if I was welding a floor pan or fixing rust. My car is from 1966 so I think the sheet metal is thicker than modern cars. But idk if it’s possible
Thank you for the nice video. I'm thinking of buying your course but I'm a bit lazy, is everything metric-compatible in the course or, do I have to use my brain? (e.g. Amps/thou is not a useful unit on my bank of the pond) I suggest you copy your answer in the course blurb too :)
Thanks! I have metric units in the courses, but the units aren't really the main point. I teach based on principles so that you can figure out the quantities yourself. If you try them and find that it's not the right fit for you, just send me an email and I'll refund the cost, no hard feelings.
Material prices have skyrocketed since a few years ago, so that could definitely be their price, but I don’t buy a lot of thick plate, so I’m not sure. I’d shop it around a little, check with local shops and maybe go a bit thinner/smaller if that would serve your purpose.
I’ve seen other online saying 7018 must be kept in a rod oven or it just won’t work. It seems your opinion is that it’s not necessary for hobby welding?
You can find a video on this on another popular RUclips welding channel. Would be awesome to see Tim do one to get the word out. You store them in an oven if you have a job where low hydrogen is critical. If you don't store them properly, they are fantastic rods and stronger than all the 60xx rods...just not "low hydrogen" anymore and not suitable specifically for low hydrogen work.
They make good looking welds that are stronger than 6013. They are called a medium penetrating rod. So if you have part of a box just use them like a regular rod.
Hi Nana, I’m happy to help! I found your account, however it looks like you haven’t purchased any courses yet. I just sent you an email, please reply and let me know how I can help. You can reach me at the contact email any time for quick support with any of these issues. Thanks!
Thanks for your interest in the courses! Yes. The courses are online and you work at your own pace. The one-time course purchase gives you lifetime access, so you can go back and review the lessons and exercises anytime. Check them out at courses.timwelds.com.
It’s 3/8” thick. Depending on what you’re doing, 1/4” could be fine. If you’re welding steel, a steel plate would be fine as well. The one I have is just a random size drop remnant that I happened upon for 25 bucks a few years ago. You can order one from an online supplier, but it’s probably worth calling a few local metal suppliers or fab shops to see if they’d sell you a rem that’s around what you’re looking for.
I came across this one from Justin’s (the fabrication series) store. weldmetalsonline.com/products/bench-top-welding-plate It’s a bit thinner, but seems like a decent price if you’re still looking. I have a discount code there ‘TimWelds’ that can save a few bucks.
GREAT video as always, but I have a question about 7018 (DCEN). Bottom line, why might it be so EXTREMELY DIFFICULT START, even with new rods on very clean metal? You start it like the Pro here (of course), but for me and some others it is by far the the most difficult rod to use, even brand new. My machine has an "arc force" setting which is poorly explained in its user manual -- would that be the key? Meantime, I am sticking bad every single time I use 7018 rods. Again, THANKS for your channel and super clear info!
Thanks! I would recommend DCEP for 7018. Striking an arc is largely a matter of practice. Arc Force will increase amperage when your arc length becomes short (the machine senses this from a change in voltage, which is proportional to arc length). It doesn’t do much for 7018, but is more helpful on cellulosic rods like 6010/6011. If your machine has a hot start setting, that would help quite a bit.
@@TimWelds Thanks! Okay - I meant to say DCEP - but will make sure. To be honest, I do not know if I have Hot Start on my good fancy machine (the manual is not very good in my opinion). It is a YesWelder 250P AC/DC.
So ive got a cheap import welder and have had trouble striking and maintaining an arc with 7018, but not 6013. Your suggestion of trying a 7018ac rod is something ill try, but im curious as to why having an ac rod would be beneficial? Great vid btw.
Thanks! The 7018AC rods are formulated for arc stability to sustain an arc when the AC sine wave is not at it's peak. This can also help with some cheaper inverters. Another issue I've run into with some cheaper inverters is that the output is a bit lower than the readout, so you may just need to crank it up a little higher than expected.
That’s why I don’t like 6010 it loves to stick when it’s brand new once it burns back a but your good to go I always run it at 85 amps I find it melts fast at 90
7018, welds easily. Good quality 6013 is fine, too. Anything with cellulose is just nasty and difficult to use, simply switch to TIG if I need a good root. From my experience, you just have to try the electrodes, some make better ones, some are worse. 6013 from company A doesn't weld as nice as other pack from company B.
Been forever since Vo-Tec lol so I have not Welded for decades. I am probably 100% wrong but don't they call a 70/18 Rod a "Jet Rod" as well? Again I'm probably wrong I'm just curious. Also you Weld well past a Pro smh some guy's just find what they are perfect at then run with it. Sadly I'm not one of those Guys LOL.
I usually clean the tip of the 7018 with a die grinder before restarting. And hotstart is nice for avoiding welding it stuck to the workpiece. But I really prefer the 6013.
This man is a guru. I purchased his course and I have learned more in a month than in half a year practicing by my own. I highly recommmend it.
Thank you so much!
Same here....I bought the TIG course and it has been a huge help...I review the videos while practicing.
Same here, having electrical background I needed “little bit” of theory and practical pointers as well. For me his online course was excellent and at 68 I actually learned a lot. But as he says, practice, practice and then - voilá, it all comes together. 👍
I've started practice 3 weeks ago, and I switched from weldingtips andtricks to this channel and also discovered Making mistakes with Greg channel. I feel like wt&t is to advanced for me (probably I'll return to it in the future) but TimWelds and Making mistaked with Greg are perfect for noobs like me (great explanations of the basics). After three weeks of watching and practicing I put together my own welding cart and it rolls!
YT is great
I'm going to look into that
Top notch teaching, warts and all, great job.
I only do farm type welding and only use 6011 and 6013. 11 for thick and rusty and 13 for thin and clean. Both are Hobart from Tractor Supply Company. 1/8" usually set on 90 or 105 on my Lincoln buzzbox. Never had any of my ugly welds break yet. I did just order online some Esab Sureweld 6013 green rods. Looking forward to giving them a try, I hear they're great.
Man I'm so glad I found u. U give the BEST instruction and tips. I've tried a couple little tips that seem so miniscule but can make a world of difference. Love watching. Some people just have an unwatchable personality or voice. Not even sure what it is but u have a good presence.
Buy the course. Thank me later. It is great value. Yes, actual paying customer. It has excellent explanations and demonstrations. It's sequential and broken down so you don't get lost. You can re-watch parts of it many times if needed, which I have. I literally had no idea when I started and in fact have never welded. I just wanted to learn stick welding to do some projects around the house. So far, the courses helped me to not electrocute myself and not to burn myself or the house down (basic fabrication and safety part of the course). This makes my wife happy. Now starting to lay some beads of weld which look OK and doing some joins. How good. I literally started knowing nothing at all. Not a thing. If I can learn, anyone can. Thanks Tim. Awesome. Cheers
Thanks!!!
Here in Australia 6013, is the dominant welding rod, because for decades CIG ( Commonwealth Industrial Gasses), THE dominant player in the welding market at the time, pushed their Satincraft 13 brand very hard.
So we all grew up using either Satincraft13 ( blue electrodes) or "GP" (grey electrodes, probably 6012) and most of us did not know about or use much else.
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They ( 6013) are easy to produce a good looking weld with, but it is also very easy to get a very poor weld, with poor penetration and lots of slag inclusion.
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We all learned on 120 amp buzz box type welders and 3.2mm ( 1/8) 6013 rods. Most did not progress any further.
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Two very important things I wish I had learned decades earlier
#1 run your rods high in the amp range, if you are not right at the top of the amp range, get some smaller rods.
This is especially true of 6013, otherwise you will get poor penetration and slag inclusion.
#2 learn about other rod types
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That's really interesting; I never knew why they were so popular. I agree 100% with both of your takeaways. Thanks!
Not sure what more to add. Looks like ESAB w/ its cigweld brand pretty well dominated your welding territory. Maybe your area was niche & limited to blue & gray electrodes. Cigweld has a full range of filler metal choice. Some competition (if economial) might of been more healthy for the consumer. Cheers from sunny Florida.
@@miszced ESAB was pretty much unknown here till quite recently.
We saw some lincon and a couple of other US brands, but only in the big end of town.
Back in the 70's and 80's CIG was pretty much the only game in town.
Untill a french company, then branded as "liquid Air" came to town, you where buying your gas from CIG. Even then we where paying extortionate rental on your bottles.
It's only in the last 10 years of so we have had a number of independent gas suppliers come on to the market to bust up the rip off duopoply
They always had a full range of CIG rods, but out side the specialist welding trade, we had Satincraft 13's and GP's and that was about it.
A lot of that is because unless you where a high end welder you where welding AC
Because of the very strong market position Satincraft 13's are very much over priced.
I can buy good brands of 6013's for half the price, generics for even less, these days and now you can buy a good range of rods without going to a specialist welding shop.
That said the average hardware shop will pretty much have 6013's and maybee somethung that equates to a GP or 6012.
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Stick welding is not the BIG thing is is in the US.
MIG and TIG has replaced stick and OXY in the vast majority of cases.
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Like plasma cutting has replaced gass cutting in everythung but heavy work.
@@soundman6645 yes, familiar with Air Liquide & AIRGAS plus LINC. As far as the demise of stick welding process ... it's still here! Besides being a mature product, innovation continues with cost cutting & competitive benchmarking. The leap-frog* happened when the covering of stick electrode became the core of a steel sheath into gas shielded, selfshielded & metal core tubular wires for semi or automatic arc welding.
* bit of an over simplification
Yeah 6013 is the most common rod over here in New Zealand too. I haven't done a whole lot of stick welding and kind of suck at it, but the more I learn about rod types, the more I think 6013 is kind of a tricky rod to learn with.
My favorite, because I can’t seem to stick weld very good, is the 7014.
So easy to use.
I've tried some 7014, they're really user friendly. Easy like a 6013, but not as much of an issue with the slag.
@@TimWelds why they aren't the best?
I used to use 7018 in a maintenance shop for years but I switched over to 7018 AC as recommended by my local welding supplier. What I noticed it there is a conductive ingredient in the flux that allows it to restrike without having to chip off the hardened flux. That was a huge plus to me. I also tried welding with it on DC and found I could not tell any difference in the way it ran. My opinion is it's the greatest welding rod of all due to those two advantages.
I have never ran any ac 7018, but I have ran a lot of DC 9018, and they seem to refire better than 7018. Of all the many DC 7018 I have run, Forney restarts the best and Blue Demon the worst. 6013 is a good rod all around if you get used to it, too, but you have to keep it moving along, unlike a low hydrogen. And 6013 isnt good for heavier stuff like 3/8" and up.
@@timberslasher4899 I always called 6013 "farm rod" Everyone uses it because there's so many AC buzz boxes around. Even though I have DC available to me at home I experiment with AC on other rods just for fun. From testing I found that many rods that most people run DC will run on AC if you need to. I throw the book away and see for myself what it acts like. The one rod I could not get to run on AC is 6010. It totally refuses to run but I expected that from what people say about it but I was given about 100 lbs of 7024 once and found it runs great on AC. Go figure.
@thomasjefferson1457 I have ran some 6011 but usually just where I can't get to something to clean it a little. I have never burned a 6010 rod I don't think in 30 years of this mess. I have no formal welding training other than high school shop. But my dads best friend owned a huge welding shop for 40 years that I grew up in half the time. I think they never bought anything but 7018....lol.
So all these other rods are pretty new to me, in the last 5 years or so I have started trying different things. But still if I could only have one rod it would be 1/8" 7018.
@@timberslasher4899 I'm the same as you. I have no actual school training but started welding at about 12 years old helping my dad build stuff. I later worked around certified welders for years installing machinery and as a maintenance mechanic in an industrial plant. I eventually went to college for electronics and became the plant electrician. People used to say "you weld pretty good for an electrician" LOL I never considered myself a "welder" as such because of the lack of schooling. I watch lots of welding video's on you tube now to fill in the gaps of my lack of school training.
@thomasjefferson1457 about the same here, degree in emergency medicine and land surveying both, but spent last 30 years running family logging biz which involves lots of heavy welding. Always paid a lot of attention to good welders and got the reputation as a good welder/fabricator now myself.
Served my welding apprenticeship in a British shipyard BOC Vodex 6013 were the dominant rod all position as with all 6013’s finding the sweet amperage is the answer I have always found they run better on AC back then I could get a peel in any position Vodex 6013 are the best general purpose rods I have ever used 6018 Philips 56 s take some beating and 6010 NU 5s are my go to only got 50 years experience behind me so maybe one of the older guys could throw me some advice 🤣🤣
Thank god for you I’m in school now for this an I learn more from you than my instructor 💯
Really informative. Would be great to have a sequel showing additional electrode types or maybe a video showing actual fab work. Thanks!
Personally 6010 roots are the bane of my welding existence, during school it was the biggest problem I had with any welding projects or tests, though I did eventually get to the point I passes my 6010/7018 pipe, and with my structural weld test with 1/2 carbon coupons. The most fun I have had was testing on stainless tig (for a job I applied for and got hired for) as it was enough of a challenge to push myself without feeling frustrated like I did with 6010 roots on my stick tests.
I love your classes, I have found that the 7014 rod is the easiest to use in almost all my DIY and blacksmith projects. (1/8 and 3/32)
Great learning video! One tip on 6013, get the one with green flux, it has much fewer slag inclusion problems. I checked online, and the green 6013 is not easy to find in the US. Down here in Mexico almost all 6013 has the green flux.
I personally use 6011 & 7018 a lot at work, and don't really have any experience running any other rods. I like the channel because I feel it gives me an idea what to expect if I ever have to use anything I'm not familiar with.
I love 6013. 7018 is still my favorite go-to rod but 6013 has alot of benefits. It's great for thin metal since it comes in 1/16" rods which few others do. And like you mention it's easy to strike an arc
Absolutely! Thanks!
Tim, i just bought a vevor mma-140 and some 6011 3/32 and will be unboxing and trying it out in the morning. I've been binge watching your videos and i have to say your presentation/style and info are clear and to the point. Really looking forward to seeing how long it will take to lay down that first bead.👍
I got pretty good when learning MIG/TIG/oxy welding but stick welding just absolutely kicked my butt, especially trying to get a full pen root-pass weld, regardless of whether 2F like you're doing or 1G. Could never manage to get the right behavior and then the school, the next semester, moved to inverters from the old transformers and they were a totally different beast that I never could get used to. (The large transformers were just a lot smoother.)
I am in Australia and I do a lot of heavy repair work. I always use WIA 16tc rods. I guess you guys would have something similar. They leave a shiny glassy slab, and are an absolute pig to restart, I usually have an old house brick on hand, drag them across that and they start easily.
Agreed! I enjoy a piece of rough concrete for this.
Have you tried the unimig rods?
@@JC-dc7ez I have had a go at one of the opposition rods, cannot remember which brand. Was pretty good except overheads. I use nothing but Hyundai mig wire, great stuff
@@martinthompson4462 i will get myself a role and check it out. Thanks
Very nice presentation. I learned welding in a junior college night class 40 years ago and at that time stick welding was the state of the art although MIG was around but not so common. I like stick welding because it allows one to get into small places such as on an assembled vehicle.
I would like to have heard you comment on 7014 rods as that is what I have and use a lot.
I would have liked to have seen you weld some 1/8 inch mild steel onto the frame of a vehicle which is what I am doing now. I am very anxious about this because I know it is easy to burn through the frame which creates a weak spot.
Those black stallion gloves have been the best gloves I’ve found over the years. Love them
Since I have a cheap inverter stick welder machine, I will take your advice on the 7018AC version. I’ve tried three different types of rods, and it’s nearly impossible to develop an arc. I was able to lay a few welds with some 6013, but it literally took probably 100 attempts to get it to light up and hold an arc.
If you're having trouble lighting a 6013, consider using a different welder. Cheers!👍
Has it improved? Don’t give up! The number on the display of some welders has nothing to do with the amps delivered. I often have to turn up the setting on my cheap welder so I can avoid sticking and strike an arc
Thanks Tim for explaining everything in detail, I’m just starting to learn how to weld just to do small things around the house & as another hobby
I wish my shop was that clean.....
You really put your heart into the explanations. You are great teacher. Thank you, much obliged.
Hey Tim, good clean simple presentation on the 3 common SMAW rods in use. I do believe some of the pros out there can use the larger 6010 diameter (5/32 & 3/16) for arc gouging once the polarity is switched.
Thanks a ton! That could be a prett cool way to gouge, I may have to look into that. I've only used air carbon arc gouging, but it's been a decade since I did much of that...don't miss that process much.
Just signed up for coarse based on other comments excellent value and the content is so well explained, really impressive!!
Best $59 I’ve spent in a long time. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge
Can you go over the storage/lifetime issues with 7018? I've seen so many conflicting stories on this. What is the casual home welder to do when you need to open a whole box of rods and you only need a part of one rod?
I don't want to advertise someone else's channel on this guy's channel, but you can find videos debunking the idea that a casual home welder needs to store 7018 in a special way (assuming you aren't "casually" doing professional jobs specced for low hydrogen 😂). If you allow 7018 to pick up moisture, it will perform...better than a 6010 or 6011 or 6013 that is handled similarly. Think of "low hydrogen" as a superpower that you need if you were working in industry on a job specified for it. If you store 7018 out of an oven, it loses this superpower, but 7018 without its superpower is no different in that regard than any other rod you might ever use. You can find videos of a guy welding fillets using 7018 that sat in a cup of water overnight and getting stronger results on a break test than with a fresh 6000 series rod. Exposure just makes the 7018 no longer "low hydrogen" but that's the default state of all those other rods. Just think of improperly stored 7018 as "not low hydrogen" anymore...same as all your other rods.
@@zyx495 Thanks for taking the time to answer. That is the conclusion I've come to after digging in to this topic more deeply. I *think* I saw this in one of Tim's more recent videos, but if that isn't the case, my previous comment still stands.
gave you an immediate thumbs up just for including metric and imperial numbers
I'm sure the rest of the video will be great too :D
I’m a garage tinkerer of moderate technique and 6013 gives decent results on cheap equipment, imho. Great video
Thanks. I see you use an aluminum plate over the welding table when stick welding.
Beautiful closeup shots.TU. I wish I could see this through my true color welding helmet but the aging eyes have reached their limit even with thick glasses. still it's fun to weld and listen to the sound ;-)
I'm watching you from Ghana and I'm in love with wilding job
6011 is called a farmer rod in Maine. Paint, rust it don't care. I'm going to be getting some 6010's where I weld a lot of 1/2 and 3/4. Thanks for the info
I also have just done the courses and they are great.
Thanks.
Thank you so much!
What brand electrode do you buy?
Lol, what ever I can get in outback Australia 😂
Good to see you back
Thanks a ton! It's great to be back publishing on the regular!
I have a love hate relationship with 6013. Sometimes it doesn’t leave enough metal in a joint. But mostly, it’s the cat’s meow, giving me the smoothest joints.
I probably need to take your course to become more consistent.
2 of my favorites are 7024 and 8018
Hey Tim excellent presentation there. Thanks for making this video
I use all of them but my favorite is one no one uses anymore - 7024. Big fat rod, great looking weld, slag just peels off. Not the best for everything but for a lot of the stuff around my house I love it.
Fully & 110% agree. Great for fillet welds & downhand (flat) welds. It's also called a dummy rod. You just couldn't go wrong with it.
If you have a Buzz Box/ AC machine, use 6011in place of 6010 ;)
Building a custom supercharger as we speak running 6013 and it's going amazing
Hey man great Channel I've got a about 13 mm round piece of Steel that I need to weld the same diameter end to end it was good I thought until it failed and it looks like the steel rod didn't get hot enough for the weld to fuse it was just the weld material holding it together and that was with my $200 Amazon welder with a 6013 rod I have a super old it says WS 225 k wire feed arc welder with Mac Tools branding on it that should give me different results I'm assuming or is welding something end to end like that not as strong?....thanks!
Where do I get the TW hat!?
That's one of a kind for now; my wife got it made for me for Christmas last year.
Where can we snag a couple of those sweet hats?
That's one of a kind for now; my amazing wife had it made for me for Christmas last year.
Thanks a lot bro. I just learned some important tips from you
I've had slag peel from 6013, 7018, and 6011. As well as 308l, 309l, 316l stainless electrodes 🤙🤙🤙
Right on! 🔥🔥🔥
hey im new to welding what is the difference of the red welding rod and grey
What about 6011? We use it for ranch work all the time.
He is using a HTP they sent him to feature using in his vids, they are not cheap. Plus he is a weld engineer and i hear they have 6010 called for in specs instead of 6011. ( I think someone said 6011 was common in SA)
Most of us have cheaper welders that won't run 6010, farm stores and HF don't carry them you have to go to a welding supply store to get them.
Okay the first 2 numbers of 6011 stand for tensile strength in psi so sixty thousand pounds the next number shows u its good for a position a 1 or 2 will be stated on the rod showing a 1 for all position a 2 for a flat and horizontal rod only so the last number is your rid make up and Flux types basically telling you what the rod is capable of doing
Is there a type (material/thickness) of plate you recommend for a backer? I’m about to start learning with coupons so the backer will probably take a beating 😅
Is 7018 1/8" stick good for a fillet weld of 3/16" square tubing to 1/4" flat plate?
What rod would I use to weld 3/16 square pipe. Should I start with 70 amps and low watts
Great stuff again thanks. Any tips on cleaning the electrode holder (stinger)
Mine is the black and yellow esab one and the spring is pretty strong and the contacts are quite dirty
Can you dwelve into something like 7016 next time, if possible? 🙌🏻 I bought it once by mistake and have been using it since then, it's just so so so easy to weld with. But in all honesty, if I don't need to, I don't use electrodes at all... 😂 I'm a TIG welder, I like silence and solitude (without sparks) 🤣
I’m with you on the TIG. 😃 I’ve honestly never used 7016, but I might check some out.
If I'm not mistaken, 7016 is just like 7018, but its flux lacks iron powder, so it doesn't have as high of a deposition rate as 7018.
@@elkvis May be. It forms glass-like slag that needs to be hammered off, but that's very easy. Also starts and restarts are simple, I've been shocked how good it welds too. The main benefit is precision with which welder can lay it down. It has become my go to electrode for home applications when it's windy or I'm out of flux-core.
Most electrode manufacturers have developed a 7018AC. They are generally featured w/ touch restrike, equivalent deposition rates to std 7018 & easy slag removal with better arc control in positional welding. 7018AC is better on AC (Buzz Boxes*) & may help with arc blow.
*maybe a better choice of words, Hobbists with low output power sources
I'm a beginner. If i have 6013 and modern inwerter (dc) how yo connect wires? There is no information in manual and no suggested anything on electrodes. What to do, can you help me? Older welders says minus to ground cable
Yes, DC Electrode Positive (work clamp to negative) is going to be the best bet most of the time. You can switch them to reduce penetration on thin material, but it's very rare that I've done that.
Do you know of any decent lower costing stick welders that will burn 6010?
It feels good when you weld with 7018 and the slag is already chipped off and curved up
Hi, I'm a newbie in welding. Currently I have a MMA welding machine but want to use this machine for MIG welding. Since my MMA machine Teoritically has 0~120A and its non-load voltage is 100V, then how to reduce the voltage down to 20V for MIG welding? This machine has only 1 amperage regulator knob (0~120A).
Any help is very appreciated 🙏🏼
Unfortunately, this will probably not work very well. The reason has to do with the fundamental design of power supplies for different welding processes. MMA uses a constant current power supply, where MIG uses a constant voltage supply. The reason for this is that you don't directly control arc lenth with a wire feed process like MIG, so the power supply has to reach a stable point. With a constant voltage supply, power is increased with a short arc length to increase it and is decreased when the arc length is long to reduce it. Thus it will reach a balance point. The MMA power supply will not do this as effectively.
Wait till the HF Titanium 125 goes on sale.for about $120.
Looking great Tim
Thanks!
Which is best rod for galvanized iron (GI)
Q: Will stick welding be strong enough for my application?
I want to weld up a seat for my bike for my 60# dog. I will use metal tubes bent to create the back and sides. The bottom will be fastened to my bike rack just the tubular sides will be welded.
Thanks!
In general, Stick welding as a welding process can be very strong. Industrial equipment is repaired with stick welding all the time (by professionals). The more important aspects are: operator skill and competency in metal fabrication/engineering design. The strength/resilience of a completed welded project can highly depend on how the joints/geometry of the structure is designed, as well as the quality of the welded portions that tie it all together. So it begs the questions: Do you already know how to stick weld? Are you experienced in metal fabrication? Are you familiar with creating/evaluating the integrity of a concept structure that is to be welded? If all that is new to you, it might be best to seek advice from someone who is familiar with similar type work and possibly get their advice/input. Hope this helps.
6010 such a mystic rods, we dont have them around here, in Russia
I usually use 6013 and 7015-G, and sometimes 7016
6010 cellulose and sodium DC, 6011 cellulose and potassium AC/DC runs on old transformer machine and cheap chinese welders.unless they are really cheap. Both are fast freeze rods, what do you use when you need that. There was a review of a chinese welder and he said it wouldn't run either. I can't imagine getting by without one or the other.
Tim, that clamp position is an excellent suggestion. Thx for the tip
Terima kasih sudah berbagi ilmu ❤❤❤
Informative and easy to understand.
6010 rods. I found out that if you dampen the rods you can reduce splatter. Working underground, 6010 has it uses. I prefer 7018.
Thanks! When I went to welding school, they actually had us dip our 6010 rods to help them maintain an arc with their early generation inverter machines...turns out there's a background setting that just needed to be changed, but no one realized that at the time. I haven't tried it since then or compared the spatter, that'll be an interesting experiment.
@@TimWelds Thank you for the reply.
Turns out cellulose rods don't like to be super dry.
How does it compare to the 200 amp weldpro
Would a stick welder be good for automotive stuff? Like if I was welding a floor pan or fixing rust. My car is from 1966 so I think the sheet metal is thicker than modern cars. But idk if it’s possible
there are video's on youtube of guys using small 6013 electrodes for what you're
asking about .
I prefer 6011 on cars. Especially on vintage stuff and 6011 cleans everything.
@timwelds how long does access to the online course last for when you sign up to the 4 courses???
The courses come with lifetime access so you can work at your own pace and come back to the materials at any time!
What Rod is good for building Solar Tracker carrying 300Kg of weight? I am a beginner at Arc Welding so i m currently practicing with 6013.
Honestly you could use almost any rod. If you’re learning 6013, I’d just use that.
Thank you for the nice video. I'm thinking of buying your course but I'm a bit lazy, is everything metric-compatible in the course or, do I have to use my brain? (e.g. Amps/thou is not a useful unit on my bank of the pond)
I suggest you copy your answer in the course blurb too :)
Thanks! I have metric units in the courses, but the units aren't really the main point. I teach based on principles so that you can figure out the quantities yourself. If you try them and find that it's not the right fit for you, just send me an email and I'll refund the cost, no hard feelings.
what is best for dune buggy frames or thinner Guage metal as for welder and welder sticks
Tig.
That good am impressed and interested I want to learn more
Are these courses for the beginner?
Yes, they’re built specifically for beginners. 👍
Great job Man
where can i find a aluminum plate like that? im checking onlinemetals and a .5" 24x24" 6061 plate is $300+ does that sound about right?
Material prices have skyrocketed since a few years ago, so that could definitely be their price, but I don’t buy a lot of thick plate, so I’m not sure. I’d shop it around a little, check with local shops and maybe go a bit thinner/smaller if that would serve your purpose.
Your a great man Tim. God bless you. ❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉😊😊😊
I’ve seen other online saying 7018 must be kept in a rod oven or it just won’t work. It seems your opinion is that it’s not necessary for hobby welding?
You can find a video on this on another popular RUclips welding channel. Would be awesome to see Tim do one to get the word out. You store them in an oven if you have a job where low hydrogen is critical. If you don't store them properly, they are fantastic rods and stronger than all the 60xx rods...just not "low hydrogen" anymore and not suitable specifically for low hydrogen work.
They make good looking welds that are stronger than 6013. They are called a medium penetrating rod. So if you have part of a box just use them like a regular rod.
thanks Tim, great vid mate
Thank you!
Hello Tim's I still can't access the online class..I've been trying weeks now..
Hi Nana, I’m happy to help! I found your account, however it looks like you haven’t purchased any courses yet. I just sent you an email, please reply and let me know how I can help. You can reach me at the contact email any time for quick support with any of these issues. Thanks!
Hey bud are you still running your courses if so is there still availablity
Thanks for your interest in the courses! Yes. The courses are online and you work at your own pace. The one-time course purchase gives you lifetime access, so you can go back and review the lessons and exercises anytime. Check them out at courses.timwelds.com.
Wouldn't mind seeing you try 5/32 6010+++++
Turn your heat down 5. I'd like to see the back side. I whip fast with slightly higher acr length and it looks like 7018.
Thanks! I'll give that a try. It was definitely roasting that 1/8" plate by the end of the run.
@TimWelds might take a few tries but you'll get it. Shouldn't be any blistering at all on the back side. You can do it vertices up as well
How thick is the Aluminum Plate you are using? Trying to find one
It’s 3/8” thick. Depending on what you’re doing, 1/4” could be fine. If you’re welding steel, a steel plate would be fine as well. The one I have is just a random size drop remnant that I happened upon for 25 bucks a few years ago. You can order one from an online supplier, but it’s probably worth calling a few local metal suppliers or fab shops to see if they’d sell you a rem that’s around what you’re looking for.
@@TimWelds wow only 3/8? i was guessing 5/8
I came across this one from Justin’s (the fabrication series) store. weldmetalsonline.com/products/bench-top-welding-plate
It’s a bit thinner, but seems like a decent price if you’re still looking. I have a discount code there ‘TimWelds’ that can save a few bucks.
@@TimWelds sweet. I’ll check it out. Thanks!
GREAT video as always, but I have a question about 7018 (DCEN).
Bottom line, why might it be so EXTREMELY DIFFICULT START, even with new rods on very clean metal? You start it like the Pro here (of course), but for me and some others it is by far the the most difficult rod to use, even brand new. My machine has an "arc force" setting which is poorly explained in its user manual -- would that be the key? Meantime, I am sticking bad every single time I use 7018 rods. Again, THANKS for your channel and super clear info!
Thanks! I would recommend DCEP for 7018. Striking an arc is largely a matter of practice. Arc Force will increase amperage when your arc length becomes short (the machine senses this from a change in voltage, which is proportional to arc length). It doesn’t do much for 7018, but is more helpful on cellulosic rods like 6010/6011. If your machine has a hot start setting, that would help quite a bit.
@@TimWelds Thanks! Okay - I meant to say DCEP - but will make sure. To be honest, I do not know if I have Hot Start on my good fancy machine (the manual is not very good in my opinion). It is a YesWelder 250P AC/DC.
When I first started learning to weld, I got rod 7018 stuck 9 times outta 10... Ugh😢
99 out of 100 here - not exaggerating! Still true. @@lamey99
That’s why they call it stick
So ive got a cheap import welder and have had trouble striking and maintaining an arc with 7018, but not 6013.
Your suggestion of trying a 7018ac rod is something ill try, but im curious as to why having an ac rod would be beneficial? Great vid btw.
Thanks! The 7018AC rods are formulated for arc stability to sustain an arc when the AC sine wave is not at it's peak. This can also help with some cheaper inverters. Another issue I've run into with some cheaper inverters is that the output is a bit lower than the readout, so you may just need to crank it up a little higher than expected.
@@TimWelds cool man, thanks for the response.
One obvious benefit to a 7018AC is "touch restrike", liken to the 6013.
Thank you 😁😁
Awesome video keep up the great work
That’s why I don’t like 6010 it loves to stick when it’s brand new once it burns back a but your good to go I always run it at 85 amps I find it melts fast at 90
7018, welds easily. Good quality 6013 is fine, too. Anything with cellulose is just nasty and difficult to use, simply switch to TIG if I need a good root.
From my experience, you just have to try the electrodes, some make better ones, some are worse. 6013 from company A doesn't weld as nice as other pack from company B.
Been forever since Vo-Tec lol so I have not Welded for decades. I am probably 100% wrong but don't they call a 70/18 Rod a "Jet Rod" as well?
Again I'm probably wrong I'm just curious. Also you Weld well past a Pro smh some guy's just find what they are perfect at then run with it. Sadly I'm not one of those Guys LOL.
The slag will roll up behind a 7018 if done correctly
Not always, it depends a lot on the brand
I usually clean the tip of the 7018 with a die grinder before restarting. And hotstart is nice for avoiding welding it stuck to the workpiece.
But I really prefer the 6013.
How do u weld in dat position
Dat? Lemme axe you a question. Wha u meen by dat?
7018 is the best for cast iron out of all those electrodes, but preheat and clean with 6010. 6011 if using a standard inverter.
Great information... Thank you
you can just bang the stick once on the table and it will come off 4:43
Great job
Those red 6010s are reverse polarity rods
Thanks! I was running reverse polarity (DCEP) for all of the welds.
Aww did not know that's what that meant Dcep. Bought them several times and wondered why they splattered so bad discovered it that way lol
Thar is a nice chipping hammer !!! I have 3 of them
For sure! Sometimes it’s the small things that make life easier.
So pretty，same laser welding !!!